I have fitted 4 of these now to mtb's hardtail & full sus. One important point is to ensure that there is clearenece between the drive gear casing and the chainstay (sometimes requires a little fetling). the reason is that if touching, when tightened up, it can affect the torque sensor. However, i have been delighted with these motors and have many happy trouble free miles under my belt. Brake sensors are not really needed as being torque sensing, the power stops when you stop pedalling
For the brakes use a Through-Line/In-Line E-brake Sensors or Magnet E-Brake Sensors. Instead of the included brake levers. Then you do not need to replace the gear changer. With the Through-Line/In-Line E-brake Sensors you may want to replace the brake cables. With the Magnet no brake cable change. I attached originally glued the sensor on the brake lever but it came off. So then used a zip tie to secure it. In my case I used one included brake lever for the front brake and the magnet for the back brake. In the US theses items cost about 15 US dollars for a pair. Hope this helps.
Thanks Jim, really helpful advice for other viewers. Shame I didn't get your message earlier, as you'll see from my next video released tomorrow, I fitted a new gear selector. TBH the new brake levers do feel nicer quality.
My donor bike has the rear cables going along top tube and down seat stay tubes, and my frame supports a mid bike stand, I got lucky looks like 😅 Great vid waiting for my tongsheng kit to arrive
Just subscribed and Liked. I wish I had bought a Tongsheng instead of a Bafang becuse the Tonsheng has a torque sensor rather than a cadence sensor. I would like that much more and it would be more effective for exercise. My Bafang installation was soooo easy with no snags but I wonder if the Tongsheng would have been as easy without snags. I may replace mine with a Tongsheng but as it stands everything is working like a charm so not sure how much I want to change it. Maybe I will wait a year then do it.
@6:00 on my bike the cable housing actually fit between the motor and the frame. I even added a second cable housing for the brake cable (reused the housing from the front derailleur) so now both my rear derailleur and brake are nicely tucked away for a clean look. Still don't get the point of having sensors for brakes/shifter on a torque sensor motor. After a lot of years of using a bicycle I stop pedalling when I brake and the tsdz2 takes about a second or so to stop and I think it winds down gradually, so as soon as you stop pedalling, the torque goes down immediately. And like with any vehicle, if the road conditions have the potential to ne dangerous, slow down, don't rely solely on the brakes. Prevention is paramount. But that's just me :)
Good to know on some frames the cables will fit between the motor and the frame. I take your point about the brakes but as they were part of the kit I fitted them anyway!
I had a look at several new bikes last weekend and I have a strong feeling that the TSDZ2 wouldn't fit the majority of them due to the odd shape bottom bracket shell.
@@kevinwilliams8502 I did get the TSDZ2 after have to say I was not very impressed, felt way slower than the Bosch Gen I and it got far too hot. I installed one of the open source firmware's that would work with my 850c display. I wouldn't say it made it more powerful but it did make it run much cooler, running 52v so set the amps to 12. The motor does creak loudly under load and the crank is a bit loose so not impressed with the build quality. Id say if someone really wants good power to get the bafang off em3ev, probably even the bbs02 would be far more powerful and em3ev have an excellent reputation in the diy ebike community. I got my Mac hub motors from them. Not impressed with the performance or build quality of the TSDZ2. What's worse for me is that I got one of em3ev's excellent batteries that can handle 30 amps continuous so if I had known better I should have got the BBS02, the HD is probably overkill for me. If I were to do it again however I'd probably go with a rear gear hub motor and abandon mid drive, geared hubs offer a far better experience, you do need to give them some power, 1 Kw would be much better than the TSDZ2 but at 2 Kw hub motors really shine. Definitely, geared hub motors are a lot more fun but you really need torque arms, without them the axel will spin in the dropouts and destroy your cables to the motor.
My Tongsheng motor arrived 2days ago. I'm looking for a donor bike for it now. I had just built a 48v 750w bafang ebike and reconfigured the firmware. It'll be interesting to see how the 2 compares. Cadence vs torque sensor. Will you be doing the OSF programming?
@@artful-bodger I've bought two of these, one for me and one for my wife. Planning on open source firmware programming (I've bought the kit for this) so very interested to see a video if you go down that track.
Getting a good chainline can be a problem, especialliy if a spacer is required on the BB to clear the chainstay. On a couple of my builds I had to modify the chainstay (remodelled slightly with a hammer) and slightly ground the casing to provde clearance - not ideal but it worked. Also for the MTB;s I fitted a smaller 38T chainring, offset with washers to bring the chainring further inboard, the smaller chainring allowed more chainstay clearence
I have fitted 4 of these now to mtb's hardtail & full sus. One important point is to ensure that there is clearenece between the drive gear casing and the chainstay (sometimes requires a little fetling). the reason is that if touching, when tightened up, it can affect the torque sensor. However, i have been delighted with these motors and have many happy trouble free miles under my belt. Brake sensors are not really needed as being torque sensing, the power stops when you stop pedalling
How do you notice if the touching is affecting the torque sensor? Mine slightly touches but I have nothing to compare it to
For the brakes use a Through-Line/In-Line E-brake Sensors or Magnet E-Brake Sensors. Instead of the included brake levers.
Then you do not need to replace the gear changer.
With the Through-Line/In-Line E-brake Sensors you may want to replace the brake cables.
With the Magnet no brake cable change. I attached originally glued the sensor on the brake lever but it came off. So then used a zip tie to secure it. In my case I used one included brake lever for the front brake and the magnet for the back brake.
In the US theses items cost about 15 US dollars for a pair.
Hope this helps.
Thanks Jim, really helpful advice for other viewers. Shame I didn't get your message earlier, as you'll see from my next video released tomorrow, I fitted a new gear selector. TBH the new brake levers do feel nicer quality.
You dont need ebrakes with the tsdz2. Just more cable clutter.
Motor will run without speed sensor installed.
Good point. The brakes came with the kit so I thought it'd be rude not to fit them!!
My donor bike has the rear cables going along top tube and down seat stay tubes, and my frame supports a mid bike stand, I got lucky looks like 😅
Great vid waiting for my tongsheng kit to arrive
Good job, well done.
Enjoy!
Just subscribed and Liked.
I wish I had bought a Tongsheng instead of a Bafang becuse the Tonsheng has a torque sensor rather than a cadence sensor. I would like that much more and it would be more effective for exercise. My Bafang installation was soooo easy with no snags but I wonder if the Tongsheng would have been as easy without snags. I may replace mine with a Tongsheng but as it stands everything is working like a charm so not sure how much I want to change it. Maybe I will wait a year then do it.
@6:00 on my bike the cable housing actually fit between the motor and the frame. I even added a second cable housing for the brake cable (reused the housing from the front derailleur) so now both my rear derailleur and brake are nicely tucked away for a clean look. Still don't get the point of having sensors for brakes/shifter on a torque sensor motor. After a lot of years of using a bicycle I stop pedalling when I brake and the tsdz2 takes about a second or so to stop and I think it winds down gradually, so as soon as you stop pedalling, the torque goes down immediately. And like with any vehicle, if the road conditions have the potential to ne dangerous, slow down, don't rely solely on the brakes. Prevention is paramount. But that's just me :)
Good to know on some frames the cables will fit between the motor and the frame. I take your point about the brakes but as they were part of the kit I fitted them anyway!
I have fitted 3 where the cables sit between frame and motor , very neat
I had a look at several new bikes last weekend and I have a strong feeling that the TSDZ2 wouldn't fit the majority of them due to the odd shape bottom bracket shell.
I've fitted 5 in total to various frames , never any major problems to make it fit , just go for it!
@@kevinwilliams8502 I did get the TSDZ2 after have to say I was not very impressed, felt way slower than the Bosch Gen I and it got far too hot.
I installed one of the open source firmware's that would work with my 850c display.
I wouldn't say it made it more powerful but it did make it run much cooler, running 52v so set the amps to 12.
The motor does creak loudly under load and the crank is a bit loose so not impressed with the build quality.
Id say if someone really wants good power to get the bafang off em3ev, probably even the bbs02 would be far more powerful and em3ev have an excellent reputation in the diy ebike community. I got my Mac hub motors from them.
Not impressed with the performance or build quality of the TSDZ2.
What's worse for me is that I got one of em3ev's excellent batteries that can handle 30 amps continuous so if I had known better I should have got the BBS02, the HD is probably overkill for me.
If I were to do it again however I'd probably go with a rear gear hub motor and abandon mid drive, geared hubs offer a far better experience, you do need to give them some power, 1 Kw would be much better than the TSDZ2 but at 2 Kw hub motors really shine.
Definitely, geared hub motors are a lot more fun but you really need torque arms, without them the axel will spin in the dropouts and destroy your cables to the motor.
My Tongsheng motor arrived 2days ago. I'm looking for a donor bike for it now. I had just built a 48v 750w bafang ebike and reconfigured the firmware. It'll be interesting to see how the 2 compares. Cadence vs torque sensor. Will you be doing the OSF programming?
I am thinking about it. If enough people ask, I probably will.
@@artful-bodger I've bought two of these, one for me and one for my wife. Planning on open source firmware programming (I've bought the kit for this) so very interested to see a video if you go down that track.
Hi buddy I've done one of these motors before just struggling with the chain line any suggestions please 🙏
I can try and help. Can you give me a bit more information?
Getting a good chainline can be a problem, especialliy if a spacer is required on the BB to clear the chainstay. On a couple of my builds I had to modify the chainstay (remodelled slightly with a hammer) and slightly ground the casing to provde clearance - not ideal but it worked. Also for the MTB;s I fitted a smaller 38T chainring, offset with washers to bring the chainring further inboard, the smaller chainring allowed more chainstay clearence