If you would just leave in the solution for 1/2 hour you get the same results as all the removing, cleaning and reheating. I've been parkerizing for 40 years and after I formulate the solution I just set the bath to 185 deg. F to 190 deg F and soak the parts from 10 min. To 1/2 hour. Always works.
I have seen a sealer for black oxide finishes that is supposed to increase the rust resistance too. I will have to check that out. You are welcome and I am glad that you like the design.
Thanks for your kind words. I am actually going to do a little run of these in stainless steel. But, I sure love how the liners on this knife contrast with the black.
Good looking finish Tim. I like the knife design too, looks very functional. Happy to see a safety warning at the start. After all, you sure don't want to wake up dead. Ain't nobody got time for that!
I tried it, followed your instructions pretty much to the letter and the knife came out great. I couldn't find the 3m brand cleaner anywhere, but I found basically the same thing in another brand, ACME Pink Glo. Abrasive blasted the knife first and did about 7 or 8 cycles. Thanks for the video, worked great.
+chevytrucking4754 Y'could use a 10 to 20 percent solution of sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) or about a table spoon of tri-sodium phosphate (TSP) in a couple of pints of hot water if you can't find anything that's premixed at the store. TSP is basically sugar soap concentrate
Great video Tim I am gonna have to give that a go seems like it would be a great protection against rust on the carbon steel. Thanks for another great tutorial btw I really like the new design really nice!
awesome vid Tim, will have to give i a go. got a dark finish by accident yestersay by mixing some gun blue (that I ruined by leaving the dabber in) and some ferric chloride.... Yeah yeah I know thats not the greatest idea but keep an eye open for an upload in a few hours :)
I use gun blueing sometimes too. It looks nice but is not quite as durable. Hot bluing works in a very similar fashion and is better than cold bluing. Have a great weekend.
Yes, you have to shape the handles carefully and then put them on. You can shape them and just leave the pins loose, or tack them with superglue in a few spots. Pop them off and then oxide finish.
are you running it hot while the blade is in? I'm working on a blade now that I'm going to try cold rust bluing on, like the old English gun bluing process.
Parabéns! Excelente vídeo. É muito bom você repassar este tipo de conhecimento em escurecer metais. Estou aqui no Brasil e encontrei seu vídeo, mais uma vez parabéns!
I am not really sure. I have re-used it several times. You would get a light shade, but it would also be a little bit blotchy. Since the acid is mild and used as a bathroom cleaner, it is not a disposal problem since it is very diluted.
I know that there are tool blackening compounds for stainless, I only meant that this formula will not work on stainless steel. Thanks very much for the info and kind words.
hey just wanted to let you know that in the beginning of the video where you stated you cant black oxide stainless steel, i work for a metal finishing company on the black oxide line and you actually can do any kind of steel including stainless steels. for stainless steels it requires some different chemicals due to the different metal composition.all in all good video.
All you do is etching the steel with the phosphoric acid. This is not a reliable and durable finish and not what is known as "parkerizing". That manganese dioxide didn't even dissolve in the solution (dioxides are not soluble in water or phosphoric acid). That's why you have to dunk and redunk to get a somehow blackish finish. A manganese parkerizing job is done in one session and not possible with phosphoric acid and manganese dioxide.
@@SugarcreekForge You have fallen for the internet rumors just as I did. That recipe you used is almost as old as the internet itself. I tried it myself, but with the zinc parkerizing "recipe" which involves dissolving actual zinc parts in phosphoric acid. The result is also a black finish just as you created that can be washed off easily when instead it should have been a mouse grey colour (in my case anyway) that cannot be washed off easily... I researched and tried further and what you can use for a homebrew is not manganese dioxide but manganese carbonate. Try mangenese carbonate in combination with ferrous sulfate next time. The ferrous sulfate actually makes sure that the mangenese carbonates are dissolved and do what they need to do to create a lasting parkerizing finish. If you have access to nitric acid, add a bit of that too. If you ever want to try it again use this formula: 1-3% phosphoric acid 0,5% manganese carbonate 0,2% ferrous sulfate and if possible 0,2% nitric acid For a gallon of water it would be like 1,7 ounces of phosphoric acid (preferrably 75% or above), roughly 0,7oz manganese carbonate and 0,3oz for ferrous sulfate and nitric acid. You don't need to do any witchcraft with the steel wool. I don't even know what that would do chemically wise... I've tested it without the nitric acid and this works fine too. There's a lot of false information about that on the internet and I was pretty pissed off when I first tried it and it didn't work... JFYI.
Thanks, I am glad that you like the knife. Yes, I have used hot bluing before. You have to be super careful with it. If it very caustic and if it gets on you it will burn you. It is hard to dispose of the old solution too. But it is very beautiful on damascus.
How many times can you re-use a batch before it needs replaced or refreshed? What about disposal? Also, can one use only one or two "dips" if a lighter shade is desired?
I love that dark look to the steel, especially when laminated between bright stainless. Presumably this method will work for that as well, or are you better off with a prolonged ferric chloride bath?
Yes it would. I originally learned this from someone who used it to blacken a 1911 .45 pistol. If you did a rifle barrel, you would need a long trough to heat the solution in, or perhaps a long piece of black iron pipe that the barrel could be submerged vertically in. But... I am not really sure since I have never done that.
SugarcreekForge Ok well I might try it then but given what I want to do it might be easier to get one of those blueing-kits that have the small blue bottles, not as good I know but I should be able to do it with one of those. It's a Mauser K98 barrel you see
You do this after you heat treat right? Wouldn't the boiling water remove the temper from the steel after heat treatment? I would really like to apply this finish to some of the knives I have made but i do not want to ruin my temper. Just wondering
If you would just leave in the solution for 1/2 hour you get the same results as all the removing, cleaning and reheating. I've been parkerizing for 40 years and after I formulate the solution I just set the bath to 185 deg. F to 190 deg F and soak the parts from 10 min. To 1/2 hour. Always works.
Very nice! I was just researching a how-to on this process last week. I like your video WAY better. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
I have seen a sealer for black oxide finishes that is supposed to increase the rust resistance too. I will have to check that out. You are welcome and I am glad that you like the design.
Looks pretty good, I used to hot blue for this gun company and it kinda takes me back lol. Nothing like working near boiling caustic materials ha ha
Thanks for your kind words. I am actually going to do a little run of these in stainless steel. But, I sure love how the liners on this knife contrast with the black.
Hey, Grubkat! Good to hear from you. I am glad that you like it.
I cant believe it, I didn't get up at 5:34 today. Super rested for knifemaking Tuesday,,,gonna get my grind on
Good looking finish Tim. I like the knife design too, looks very functional. Happy to see a safety warning at the start. After all, you sure don't want to wake up dead. Ain't nobody got time for that!
I will def be using this technique! Thanks Tim. New blade looks great as usual.
Great Video. Tim, the copious teacher!
That finish looks really professional, that knife was beautiful, if your going to make a batch of them I'm going o need to start saving!
I tried it, followed your instructions pretty much to the letter and the knife came out great. I couldn't find the 3m brand cleaner anywhere, but I found basically the same thing in another brand, ACME Pink Glo. Abrasive blasted the knife first and did about 7 or 8 cycles. Thanks for the video, worked great.
That is so cool! Thanks for keeping me posted! You are very welcome.
+chevytrucking4754 Y'could use a 10 to 20 percent solution of sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) or about a table spoon of tri-sodium phosphate (TSP) in a couple of pints of hot water if you can't find anything that's premixed at the store. TSP is basically sugar soap concentrate
I got 3 bottles of ferric chloride laying around. Worked good on my forge welded billet. I want to try it with some distilled water.
That's looks easy enough that even I could do it. Thanks Tim, great job. Stay sharp Buddy.
very cool, i will have to try it sometime.
Thanks. This is one of the ways it is done. There are a number of commercial finishes you can buy to do similar things.
very cool Tim.
Yes. It actually works best if you sandblast the knife. Roughing up the surface gives the oxide a better chance to form and grab.
That looks great! I always wondered how dark finished blades were made. Awesome job as always!
Thank you for the very informative video. knife looked great.
Looks great Tim! Thank you for the Show & Tell.
Hi Buddy - good to hear from you. You are very welcome. Have a great weekend.
Great video Tim I am gonna have to give that a go seems like it would be a great protection against rust on the carbon steel. Thanks for another great tutorial btw I really like the new design really nice!
Very nice, love that look on certain blades.
Thanks, Kev. It really makes a nice finnish for guns. You have to bead blast them for sure though.
Very interesting. It's a nice thing also, to have a nice bead blaster! I've been using my buddys, very cool.
Homeboy u got skills! That knife is fantastic:)
LOL - Thanks, Mark. That would be a terrible start to anyone's day. And, as you said, "Ain't nobody got time for that!"
awesome vid Tim, will have to give i a go.
got a dark finish by accident yestersay by mixing some gun blue (that I ruined by leaving the dabber in) and some ferric chloride.... Yeah yeah I know thats not the greatest idea but keep an eye open for an upload in a few hours :)
I'm fairly certain you won't wake up dead, unless your a zombie.... food for thought.
Great video! Thank you.
cool technique.
Big thumbs up. What a great tutorial! Very cool.
great tutorial Tim!
Very cool. I really like the dep grey of parkerizing too. Keep me posted on your progress.
Interesting. I've been happy with the Boiled white vinegar approach on my O1. gets a nice look to it.
I use gun blueing sometimes too. It looks nice but is not quite as durable. Hot bluing works in a very similar fashion and is better than cold bluing. Have a great weekend.
Yes, you have to shape the handles carefully and then put them on. You can shape them and just leave the pins loose, or tack them with superglue in a few spots. Pop them off and then oxide finish.
I cold blued alatta gun barrels when I was in college. Looks good!
Looks Beautiful Tim! is black oxide corrosion resistant?
Great video !!
That is a great question. I am not sure if that would work or not.
Thanks for the tutorial. I have always wondered about this, I know a company near me wanted $30 to do this to one of my knives.
cool looking Finnish Tim Thanks
great video tim! thanks for sharing it.
are you running it hot while the blade is in? I'm working on a blade now that I'm going to try cold rust bluing on, like the old English gun bluing process.
Parabéns! Excelente vídeo. É muito bom você repassar este tipo de conhecimento em escurecer metais. Estou aqui no Brasil e encontrei seu vídeo, mais uma vez parabéns!
Great video...don't care about the music, I was watching for the content. Did you leave the solution heating throughout the process? Thanks.
+Bill K. Hi Bill, thanks. Yes, sir I did. I just kept the crockpot plugged in and turned on.
Thanks.
Yes, I etch with Ferric Chloride a lot. This finish is blacker, and more durable.
Excellent! Thanks for showing that process.
Hi Buddy - I am glad that you liked it. Cheers!
Outstanding Tim!! This is excellent information!! Thank you !! ;-)
Great video Tim, thank you for posting it!!
You are welcome, Jonesy. I think the differences are color, and I will see about wear and protection.
I am not really sure. I have re-used it several times. You would get a light shade, but it would also be a little bit blotchy. Since the acid is mild and used as a bathroom cleaner, it is not a disposal problem since it is very diluted.
But the manganese dioxide is very toxic.
What do you do with your solution after you have used it up?
Thanks, Scott. You are very welcome, my friend.
It works really well, Nick. Have a great week.
Thanks very much. Yes, I saved the solution and used it twice.
Great video, thanks for sharing this information !
You are very welcome!
Fantastic Video! Thanks For Sharing!
nice video. May have to give it a try on my knife projects.
Thanks! I think you will really like how it works.
Beautiful knife.
very cool man!:) I've ben thinking about trying some hot blueing with blueing salts every tryed it befor? awesome knife tim!:)
I know that there are tool blackening compounds for stainless, I only meant that this formula will not work on stainless steel. Thanks very much for the info and kind words.
I had not thought of that, Brad. Good thinking. I will have to give that a try sometime.
Pretty awesome man!!
Richard Fabbri Thanks, Richard :-)
hey just wanted to let you know that in the beginning of the video where you stated you cant black oxide stainless steel, i work for a metal finishing company on the black oxide line and you actually can do any kind of steel including stainless steels. for stainless steels it requires some different chemicals due to the different metal composition.all in all good video.
Wow. That sounds very interesting, Andy. I will be watching to see that.
All you do is etching the steel with the phosphoric acid. This is not a reliable and durable finish and not what is known as "parkerizing". That manganese dioxide didn't even dissolve in the solution (dioxides are not soluble in water or phosphoric acid). That's why you have to dunk and redunk to get a somehow blackish finish. A manganese parkerizing job is done in one session and not possible with phosphoric acid and manganese dioxide.
Thanks for the info. I appreciate it
@@SugarcreekForge You have fallen for the internet rumors just as I did. That recipe you used is almost as old as the internet itself. I tried it myself, but with the zinc parkerizing "recipe" which involves dissolving actual zinc parts in phosphoric acid. The result is also a black finish just as you created that can be washed off easily when instead it should have been a mouse grey colour (in my case anyway) that cannot be washed off easily... I researched and tried further and what you can use for a homebrew is not manganese dioxide but manganese carbonate. Try mangenese carbonate in combination with ferrous sulfate next time. The ferrous sulfate actually makes sure that the mangenese carbonates are dissolved and do what they need to do to create a lasting parkerizing finish.
If you have access to nitric acid, add a bit of that too.
If you ever want to try it again use this formula:
1-3% phosphoric acid
0,5% manganese carbonate
0,2% ferrous sulfate
and if possible 0,2% nitric acid
For a gallon of water it would be like 1,7 ounces of phosphoric acid (preferrably 75% or above), roughly 0,7oz manganese carbonate and 0,3oz for ferrous sulfate and nitric acid. You don't need to do any witchcraft with the steel wool. I don't even know what that would do chemically wise...
I've tested it without the nitric acid and this works fine too. There's a lot of false information about that on the internet and I was pretty pissed off when I first tried it and it didn't work... JFYI.
Great vid tutorial. Thanks. How do you achieve a dirty green parkerizing finish?
Thanks. I am not sure how to do that. If you find out how, let me know!
Hydrated Chromium Hydroxide (Viridian)
Very cool! I will have to try that.
Looks great man :)
Thanks :-)
I wonder what would happen if you use electrolysis with this formula wonder if it'll work quicker or make it look better
That is a good idea. I wonder too
Thanks, Chuck.
Have you thought about using this method for bringing out a Hamon line?
What do you do with the used solution?
Thats pretty cool. Thanks.
Thanks, Jason.
Thanks, I am glad that you like the knife. Yes, I have used hot bluing before. You have to be super careful with it. If it very caustic and if it gets on you it will burn you. It is hard to dispose of the old solution too. But it is very beautiful on damascus.
You are most welcome. I am glad that you like it.
Thanks, Punxsy, will do sir.
Thanks, Marshall. It holds up fairly well, but I haven't experimented too much with painted finishes.
Thanks for the how-to. What's the difference between black oxide and a patina?
-Jonesy
Do you know if this will work if I paint the solution on? I have a 6’ panel that needs to be done.
I don't know if you could heat the panel and the solution effectively... I don't think it would work
How does the recipe change for more parts, and larger parts? Also does the black fade over time or chip?
I am not sure. I have only done knife blades. It will wear off, but is pretty durable.
Anything abrasive will wear the finish off, but if you are careful, it is pretty durable.
How many times can you re-use a batch before it needs replaced or refreshed? What about disposal?
Also, can one use only one or two "dips" if a lighter shade is desired?
Very cool! Thanks for sharing
You are welcome, my friend.
Hi, thanks for asking. I do sell some knives on Gear Bastion sometimes. I am not taking custom orders right now.
Hello!
Does this method protect the item from rust?
I love that dark look to the steel, especially when laminated between bright stainless. Presumably this method will work for that as well, or are you better off with a prolonged ferric chloride bath?
You are welcome. I have been thinking about looking around to see how much comercial places charge.
Do you know how this finish compares to duracoat or cerakote? Thanks, great vid
Hi there, so would it be possible to blacken an entire gun barrel this way? and if so how's best to go about doing that?
Yes it would. I originally learned this from someone who used it to blacken a 1911 .45 pistol. If you did a rifle barrel, you would need a long trough to heat the solution in, or perhaps a long piece of black iron pipe that the barrel could be submerged vertically in. But... I am not really sure since I have never done that.
SugarcreekForge Ok well I might try it then but given what I want to do it might be easier to get one of those blueing-kits that have the small blue bottles, not as good I know but I should be able to do it with one of those. It's a Mauser K98 barrel you see
Ah, I see. You may be right about that. I am pretty impressed with how some of that cold bluing works. It is getting better and better.
You do this after you heat treat right? Wouldn't the boiling water remove the temper from the steel after heat treatment? I would really like to apply this finish to some of the knives I have made but i do not want to ruin my temper. Just wondering
@Connor Benavides - The water boiling will not get hot enough to change your temper, so you will be safe from that.
Have you tried etching with Ferric Chloride? If so, is this finish more or less durable than FC?
Are there any manner to oxidize stainless steel? thanks.
+Luiz Costa I think that some acids will do that.
Hi Randy - thanks. Have a great weekend.
Thanks, Andy. Have a great week, my friend.
Most excellent.
Thank you