Mr. Cotton, you were a pioneer in the full rebuild videos of 5 years past! If my 2019 YH goes I would gladly do the piston service. The cost of shipping just the motor would have me justify buying a whole new unit. I take great care on keeping my motor aux fan cooled as the heat is high with just the as built fan. Cheers!
For any new viewer stopping by - the carbon occurs since the oil is combusting inside the second state. The suggested hyrdraulic oil is incorrrect, instead what you should be using is an oil called "secolube" (diester based). This oil is used in high pressure breathing air compressors and insures there wont be any combustion in the second stage which then gets stink, and carbon inside your air tank and gun @air velocity sport and @target forge have several videos explaining what the best setup for these is
..and my Seco Lube 500 turns black after a couple of hours just like my favorite internet oil, Royal Purple. Air Velocity never came back with his results with the Seco Lube unless I missed it from two years ago. I will say my YH runs cooler with the Seco Lube. I have written Lawrence Factor, lol, not holding my breath. So, myself and a few others on Airgun forum have the same issue, with 1(one) saying his does not turn black.
Thank you for posting your detailed vid. How did you remove the crank from the shaft? I tried a gear puller but could not get a good grip? whats the secret?
Great Video, BTW, did you renew the shaft seal behind the crank? The one I have has started leaking. Thanks again for a very informative set of videos. Cheers.👍
Ahh.... you left out the only part I wanted to see! I have the same compressor and I had the idea to remove the crank and machine that tit that the connecting rod attaches to so it can accept a roller bearing. Then machine the rod end, press in a bearing, and button it all back up. Good video series none the less, well done.
John McDermott Hi John, in my opinion I don’t think it needs a roller bearing on the big end all the time you keep the oil level at the right level, every small petrol lawn mower engine I’ve had apart in the last 35 odd years has had an aluminium connecting rod bearing running directly on the cast iron crankshaft big end, and as long as you keep oil in them and keep the cooling fins clear they will run pretty much forever! Only reason the 2 stroke motor has the roller bearings on the big and little ends as the oil is mixed with the fuel and would seize with a solid bearing as its not being constantly dipped in the oil sump and like the 4 stroke engine!
The crank drives the piston, not the other way round, the force are less on the big end journal,good high quality hydraulic oil kept at the correct level is best.
What specific oil do you recommend in this compressor. Was wondering if i could use some semi synth 10/30 Or 10/40 motobike oil as I have them nocking about. My compressor arived a few days ago and wondering what to put in it
Warren Lyon Hello Warren, in the instruction manual that came with mine it says to use (#46 anti ware hydraulic oil), that’s what I’ve been using and haven’t had any problems ( so far ). I wouldn’t use engine oil, I’ve read about people using it and it goes black pretty much strait away which doesn’t sound good. I changed my oil the first couple of times I used it which is a good idea cause there was little glittery bits of metal in suspension in it which is going to happen as the crank and rod bed in, I also took the cover off and cleaned it out and there was a lot of metal particles directly under the crank/rod assembly, certainly don’t want that getting between the bearing surfaces!!!
Michael Sherwin Hi Micheal, it may very well do but you would have to make sure that it was getting enough lubrication to the piston/barrel as it relies on splash to get oil up there, also you might have cooling issues! Cheers, all the best!
RabbitHunter88 With a 3 legged flywheel puller, it only just fits on there, from memory I tightened it up as much as I dare without it slipping off then gave the tightening bolt of the puller a quick rap with a hammer and it came right off! Good luck 😉
RabbitHunter88 I got the motor as in, the outer stator and inner rotor, the crank throw didn’t come with it I had to use the old one! ( tight buggers) 😂😂😂
sambo cotton i dont no what to order as theres the outer of the motor then the inner with shafts do i just need outer part also any tips where to get one
RabbitHunter88 I honestly couldn’t tell you I’m afraid sorry, what were the symptoms ? did it just buzz/hum and wouldn’t start or did it fail spectacularly with fireworks and bits of shrapnel flying in all directions ? If it just buzzed it could have been the starting capacitor but with mine I think it had an internal short in the windings somewhere as it started to burn when left on for a short while, I said to them just send me a new stator but after carrying out all the tests they asked me to they sent me the whole motor (stator and rotor) but unfortunately without the crank! I got onto the people in China I got it from and they were just fobbing me off first of all, but in the end they sent me the replacement just to shut me up!!! 😂😂😂 good luck mate I hope you get it sorted
Thanks it's a very detailed video. I am actually lost where you place the piston rings. Can you please tell me what angles and direction they should be in. I am not expert that's why if you can explain it to me in detail. Thanks
Saad Magnum Hello saad, I placed the bottom 2 ring gaps 180 degrees apart from each other, that is the ring gaps one each above each end of the gudgeon pin, if that makes sense ? and the top ring gap between the two of them, that’s the way I did it..... or you could just separate them 120 degrees apart 👍 All the best
No rod bearing at all. Without a pressurized oil system, it should have had needle/ roller bearings for longer life. Perhaps drill a two small journals in the rod for better oiling. Thanks for sharing.
Rick Halverson it does have one oil hole in the top of the big end at the front, I did think about putting a countersink on it to funnel more oil but decided against it as there was no signs of oil starvation, most small lawn mower engines like Briggs and Stratton that I’ve worked on over the past 35 odd years have this setup and as long as you keep good clean oil in them at the correct level they will run day in day out for years with no sign of marring or heating on the bearing faces, but yes I agree it would have probably been better with roller/ needle bearings! Thanks for your comment
Oh it does have one oil hole, perfect. Thank you for sharing the breakdown video. That does work well if the pressure on the crank is not to crazy and the oil is good quality. With a non pressurized oil system: if the pressure on the rod & crank is higher then the viscosity breakdown of the oil; metal on metal. So good quality oil would be important in this type of system. This crank journal is powering two pistons in one, so a good hi-pressure oil is a must.
Mr. Cotton, you were a pioneer in the full rebuild videos of 5 years past! If my 2019 YH goes I would gladly do the piston service. The cost of shipping just the motor would have me justify buying a whole new unit. I take great care on keeping my motor aux fan cooled as the heat is high with just the as built fan. Cheers!
THANK YOU for actually showing all the work, and not just the before and after of each step.
For any new viewer stopping by - the carbon occurs since the oil is combusting inside the second state. The suggested hyrdraulic oil is incorrrect, instead what you should be using is an oil called "secolube" (diester based). This oil is used in high pressure breathing air compressors and insures there wont be any combustion in the second stage which then gets stink, and carbon inside your air tank and gun
@air velocity sport and @target forge have several videos explaining what the best setup for these is
..and my Seco Lube 500 turns black after a couple of hours just like my favorite internet oil, Royal Purple. Air Velocity never came back with his results with the Seco Lube unless I missed it from two years ago. I will say my YH runs cooler with the Seco Lube. I have written Lawrence Factor, lol, not holding my breath. So, myself and a few others on Airgun forum have the same issue, with 1(one) saying his does not turn black.
Thank you for posting your detailed vid. How did you remove the crank from the shaft? I tried a gear puller but could not get a good grip? whats the secret?
Same question.
Great Video, BTW, did you renew the shaft seal behind the crank? The one I have has started leaking. Thanks again for a very informative set of videos. Cheers.👍
Ahh.... you left out the only part I wanted to see! I have the same compressor and I had the idea to remove the crank and machine that tit that the connecting rod attaches to so it can accept a roller bearing. Then machine the rod end, press in a bearing, and button it all back up. Good video series none the less, well done.
John McDermott Hi John, in my opinion I don’t think it needs a roller bearing on the big end all the time you keep the oil level at the right level, every small petrol lawn mower engine I’ve had apart in the last 35 odd years has had an aluminium connecting rod bearing running directly on the cast iron crankshaft big end, and as long as you keep oil in them and keep the cooling fins clear they will run pretty much forever! Only reason the 2 stroke motor has the roller bearings on the big and little ends as the oil is mixed with the fuel and would seize with a solid bearing as its not being constantly dipped in the oil sump and like the 4 stroke engine!
Take the piston to a machine shop so that you can place a ball bering
The crank drives the piston, not the other way round, the force are less on the big end journal,good high quality hydraulic oil kept at the correct level is best.
How should the rings on the piston be arranged? any specific order? Thank you for the replies.
Quero saber qual é p giro pra tirar a biela? Horário ou anti-horário?
Queria saber mesmo é como tirar esse bloco da frente, pois o meu partiu , e agora ?
What specific oil do you recommend in this compressor. Was wondering if i could use some semi synth 10/30 Or 10/40 motobike oil as I have them nocking about. My compressor arived a few days ago and wondering what to put in it
Warren Lyon Hello Warren, in the instruction manual that came with mine it says to use (#46 anti ware hydraulic oil), that’s what I’ve been using and haven’t had any problems ( so far ). I wouldn’t use engine oil, I’ve read about people using it and it goes black pretty much strait away which doesn’t sound good. I changed my oil the first couple of times I used it which is a good idea cause there was little glittery bits of metal in suspension in it which is going to happen as the crank and rod bed in, I also took the cover off and cleaned it out and there was a lot of metal particles directly under the crank/rod assembly, certainly don’t want that getting between the bearing surfaces!!!
sambo cotton Thanks. Ile.be taking a look into that. Many thanks
Would a speed controller to reduce the rpm help with longevity ?
Michael Sherwin Hi Micheal, it may very well do but you would have to make sure that it was getting enough lubrication to the piston/barrel as it relies on splash to get oil up there, also you might have cooling issues! Cheers, all the best!
how did you remove the crank from the motor ive removed the Allen bolt easy just need motor out
RabbitHunter88 With a 3 legged flywheel puller, it only just fits on there, from memory I tightened it up as much as I dare without it slipping off then gave the tightening bolt of the puller a quick rap with a hammer and it came right off! Good luck 😉
sambo cotton did you get the motor with or without shaft too
RabbitHunter88 I got the motor as in, the outer stator and inner rotor, the crank throw didn’t come with it I had to use the old one! ( tight buggers) 😂😂😂
sambo cotton i dont no what to order as theres the outer of the motor then the inner with shafts do i just need outer part also any tips where to get one
RabbitHunter88 I honestly couldn’t tell you I’m afraid sorry, what were the symptoms ? did it just buzz/hum and wouldn’t start or did it fail spectacularly with fireworks and bits of shrapnel flying in all directions ? If it just buzzed it could have been the starting capacitor but with mine I think it had an internal short in the windings somewhere as it started to burn when left on for a short while, I said to them just send me a new stator but after carrying out all the tests they asked me to they sent me the whole motor (stator and rotor) but unfortunately without the crank! I got onto the people in China I got it from and they were just fobbing me off first of all, but in the end they sent me the replacement just to shut me up!!! 😂😂😂 good luck mate I hope you get it sorted
Thanks it's a very detailed video. I am actually lost where you place the piston rings. Can you please tell me what angles and direction they should be in. I am not expert that's why if you can explain it to me in detail. Thanks
Saad Magnum Hello saad, I placed the bottom 2 ring gaps 180 degrees apart from each other, that is the ring gaps one each above each end of the gudgeon pin, if that makes sense ? and the top ring gap between the two of them, that’s the way I did it..... or you could just separate them 120 degrees apart 👍 All the best
@@sambocotton5868 thanks. It helps
I followed your steps carefully and now the pump is sucks out the air of anything I connect to it
where did you get it from cheers
rhinenio I got it from the place I got the compressor, luckily they sent me another one cause that was the only way they could shut me up! 😉
You can give me the link where you buy the engine please?
Julio Olivo Hi Julio, I didn’t buy it, the motor was faulty so I got on to the Chinese seller I got it from and they sent me another motor!
You can buy most parts for these on AliExpress.com
No rod bearing at all. Without a pressurized oil system, it should have had needle/ roller bearings for longer life. Perhaps drill a two small journals in the rod for better oiling.
Thanks for sharing.
Rick Halverson it does have one oil hole in the top of the big end at the front, I did think about putting a countersink on it to funnel more oil but decided against it as there was no signs of oil starvation, most small lawn mower engines like Briggs and Stratton that I’ve worked on over the past 35 odd years have this setup and as long as you keep good clean oil in them at the correct level they will run day in day out for years with no sign of marring or heating on the bearing faces, but yes I agree it would have probably been better with roller/ needle bearings! Thanks for your comment
Oh it does have one oil hole, perfect. Thank you for sharing the breakdown video.
That does work well if the pressure on the crank is not to crazy and the oil is good quality.
With a non pressurized oil system: if the pressure on the rod & crank is higher then the viscosity breakdown of the oil; metal on metal. So good quality oil would be important in this type of system. This crank journal is powering two pistons in one, so a good hi-pressure oil is a must.
hi i used like this put i found water in cylinder !
☆☆☆Excellent■■Congrats👌👌🤟🍻🍻🍻☝️🇨🇱☝️☆Pj☆
You would have thought they may have design a screw compressor instead.
Christopher Villiers Haha, yes it would have been much better and a damned sight quieter!
I would have just bought another one....