After couple of months, my Omnicharge didn't want to charge anymore and after carefully watching your video, I replaced the China Corp cells with the Samsung INR21700-40T cells and I'm actually getting more battery life out of the powerbank. You should really re-upload this video and call it "how to repair your Omnicharge powerbank" 😅
This video was the 1st of many I watched from start to finish. Very well made and much more detailed then other videos, something I think you should do more often. Well done.
Review turned awesome when u took it apart and showed us all the parts. Turned really cool when you switched out the batteries. cool trouble-shooting at end. More reviews and upgrades PLEASE!
I was going to say the exact same thing when he first started explaining that, then actually DOING it. I wouldn't trust those connections for anything! I build my own 18650 4s1p cell packs (an other configs) for my long-distance iNav planes, an I would NEVER trust just some wire to make the connections, especially with the rapid temp. changes an altitudes that occur.
It's a shame these companies charge top dollar for their product but fail to deliver on top components as your video just demonstrated. Thanks for the great video and keep up the good work. Hope you could do an Omni Ultimate or Goal Zero Nomad/Sherpa next time and see which company does not compromise on quality!
This is a very good video. Thank you to the creator for making this and showing the dissection and replacement of the Chinese cells with better quality.
About the omnicharge percentage calibration. Omnicharge instructed me to fully discharge the battery with normal use as long as the omnicharge goes to mode where it just shows the empty battery icon. After that fully charge, and then it is recalibrated to show right percentage.
Cool video! It’s always good when replacing a battery/cells to actually test the system in use (measure current and voltage under load) then you can get a clear idea about the “real world” performance of the unit. I reckon they could be taking those cells down to 2.5V to get the extra watt-hours.
They seriously put in a lot of work and love to the circuits, though. I have two 1st gen Omni 20s (without USB C), and one of them had a busted battery due to water damage in a horribly rainy day. Turns out the circuit not only protected frying other guys connected to it, but even managed to save itself, and came back fully functional after just a cell replacement. Best crowdfunding experience so far. You don't run into this level of overengineering these days anymore, yet they did it. Cells obviously didn't get the love the circuit counterparts did though. They all had cell failures after about two years of use, and weren't even the highest capacity cells of the size.
I have one indiegogo pre-production model with a failed cell also. However, they were Sanyo or Pana cells, and the ones that didn't fail all load-discharge-tested to nearly new capacity so I reused them in other things. I have mine back together with new cells now. My HVDC output doesn't work, don't know if it ever did. Maybe a failed mosfet but I don't feel like tearing into it again.
Hi Jehu. I was one of the Omnicharge Ultimate project backer on indiegogo. After your teardown exposing they have switched from Sanyo GA to chinese bak cells with lower capacity, they quickly edited out the original specs and now it no longer says 'Samsung/LG/Panasonic cells inside'. However, the units that are shippied and are yet to ship have printed on the battery pack 40,200mAh and 145Wh respectively, which were true if they had sticked to 3,350mAh cells. Since they switched to 2,900mAh cells the energy rating dropped to 125Wh, which makes it fall into false advertising category. After this I performed a discharte test on my Omni Ultimate and got 75% efficiency based on 145Wh, which makes more sense if I based it on 125Wh which is what is has in reality. I contacted indiegogo and all they had to say is to contact the campaign manager, and all omni has to explain to me is these chinese cells perform better than the originally planned ones, the Sanyo GA. Obviously a lie because both rated 3C discharge. If they really wanted to go high drain there were plenty of options available such as Samsung 30Q, Sony VTC6, LGHG2 and a lot more. So effectively there are almost 3,000 Omni ultimate units delivered around the world with chinese cells in them, fake capacity claim, and being potentially dangerous. This is a huge issue and I hope you can help me to spread awareness of this.
When disconnecting the BMS keep in mind that some of them have internal memory that stops working without electricity. This happened to a laptop battery back with low capacity cells. I tried to exchange the dead cells by new ones which lead to bricking the battery pack (not recognized by the computer anymore). I read later that you were supposed to connect every part of battery pack to the according voltage in order to keep the BMS alive. This makes the soldering process much more complicated.
The improvements might be weaker than you think. A reddit-user has replaced his BAK-Cells (2.900mAh) with LG M36 (3.600mAh) of his Omni Ultimate. He expected an capacity increase about 20%, but his capacity test on the DC-Out shows, that the real increase was only about 5%.
I simply loved this video... it's probably the third time I'm watching it.. first time I focused on the battery upgrade but next two times I saw it for it's small circuitry. I would really appreciate if you could please share the circuit diagram and the components used.
@@DELTASECComputer Yes, the cells are very poor quality and don't seem to last long. Mine were locked by the facility they came from though unfortunately..
Hey awesome video for watching the process. I watched as you hot glued the thermistor onto the battery, but that may be dangerous as you aren't creating a proper thermal pathway and created an insulating barrier which will allow the temperature to reach much higher and read much lower. Usually just sticking it down with aluminum tape is the best way as it allows a more true temperature reading.
I recommend you to just take everything apart from the old case, 3D print a new one, transfer everything to the new one, add replace those with the "Tesla Panasonic cells" or LG HG2 and then enjoy longer run time. Also you can add an XT60 connector for faster charging or even a buck/boost converter for getting a additional voltage range from 1,25v to 35v. Unfortunately you will not get the best amperage but it has a lot of use cases. I personally installed a XL6009 buck/boost module (I got 11 modules for 12,74$) and it is perfect for my use cases like powering my bicycle lights which are powered by 6 AA batteries :P I hate AA batteries since they're really quickly drained and that's why I always replace them with a Lipo cell and my diy mini buck/boost converter
Hey... so yeah, after watching your review *cough* teardown mod video geek-fest, I decided to buy one. The link you provided is to the OmniCharge "13", a watered-down weak-arse version of the OmniCharge. I ended up finally receiving it, without USB-C or wireless charging. It's confusing as hell that they have completely different devices being called the same thing. You might want to update that link...
Idk how you can mistake these for the same-thing. The naming convention is pretty straightforward. One is called the "Omni 13", the other "Omni 20". One is meant to be more compact/portable while the other being more of a feature packed powerhouse.
Hi, you got the Omnicharge 20+. No one reviewed that unit as yet. It’s not available for purchase. It’s new because they introduced USB C to their Omnicharge 20.
@@jopi24johannes Hi... I have the omni charge 20 and it does not come with USB C.. The unit in this video is labelled Onmicharge 20+. I also didn't find it anywhere online...so I guess its a pre release model.
ave channel has been doing it for several years,and its just as entertaining if you can understand some of what he is saying?aparantly canada has a different dialect
To get 72 watts they've multiplied 2.9 amps times 4.15 volts which is the maximum operating voltage instead of multiplying by 3.7 volts which is the nominal voltage. That's cheating and 9 out of 10 manufacturers do it because since one started doing it the rest followed to remain competitive in spec sheets. It is misleading and should be prohibited. This is actually an important matter that shouldn't be overlooked. If you are a lawyer or know one interested in pursuing this, it is very possible to transform this issue into a class action. It's extremely probable that there will be jurisprudence after the class action ends and so society will have won.
A common trick of the industry! Like Tesla that only talks about maximal power whilst the standard of the industry is nominal power indications. So the 69 kW Tesla turns to a 450 kW! Normally, power output of cars is measured by DIN-norms that stipulate the power output of the car engines Bing measured during one hour! A class action should be induced against phoney Musk, the biggest liar on Earth!
@@jurivlk5433 Please point me to a car that's power output is measured during one hour of use and not a regular dyno. Talk about being out of your depth.
@@flavablame Every European car is measured after the DIN-standard or Deutsche Industrie Norm. That standard stipulates the nominal output of the engine as being during at least one continuous hour! Today, the DIN standard is the world standard. In the 70s, there were SAE-HP which were generally much higher because of measuring the pure engine, without the exhaust system, water pump, alternator, climate control and so on. That gave birth to 7.4 l engines with 300 HP SAE and 180 DIN HP! Tesla is the biggest scam ever! These shitboxes have like 69 nominal kW or 94 DIN HP output only! That explains why they are so incredibly sorry slow turtles. A car with real 700 HP would make like 370 km/h or over over 235 mph! Got it, my son???
It would be nice to have a regulation requiring the detailed calculation supporting the final wattage, like with your food ingredients or mortgage loans (lender is required to provide standardized calculations of effective interest rate, etc.). Maybe society could draft an information regulation for batteries that is like the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) required for chemical products. Until we get the regulation, consumers should follow the Caveat Emptor advice and assume the worst possible calculation as above. We also have the choice of rewarding the manufacturers that provide lots of good detail by paying a premium and leaving the heavy discounters to respond with the desired information when their sales drop.
@@flavablame many cars ar limited for various reasons but mainly for safety and reliability so i would never judge an engine by the car's maximum speed ... just put the cars on dyno and that would be it ...
I'm gonna attempt this, I have this exact power pack and one or more cells has gone bad efter years of use and abuse, charging it now gets it really warm and it doesn't hold a charge as good as it used to. Great vid, tho I would've liked it to be a bit slower and more thorough 😅 but all the essential parts are shown so I think I'll manage 👍
Probably not untrue, strictly speaking. Those offbrand cells are probably B or C binned cells from one of the big 3, just re-wrapped and re-serialized. The nicer ones get tested so the advertised capacity is accurate, the cheaper ones don't and vary wildly in performance. So really, they should say "we are using shitty 18650 Li-ion cells by Panasonic/LG chem/Samsung that didn't pass QC".
@@jttech44 But they are lying since Omni20+ with the capacity. 6 * 2.9Ah equals 17.4Ah, not 20.4Ah. In the old "Omni20" model they used quality cells from Sanyo (3.350mAh i think).
You re definitely behind the curve, I've had a 110 capable battery charge pack since 2015. Black web... the only thing I don't like about it is it has a dedicated charger. You can't charge it with USB. I found it and used it living in my shack in the Poconos and in my tent and truck in Florida. Also what I found useful, battery jumper box with AC outlet, USB and... yeah, you're behind the curve!!!
I like building my own, my smallest one I have are. , 5 ah, and I have one that is 15-17 ah, depends on the cells I used can't remember the exact capacity. I'm looking into faster charging now, the power bank boards dont output the current to charge fast, I'm thinking 3-5 amps to recharge the bank.. With a high capacity, its way below 1c. Great video ,,,...
The commercial power banks have a lot of great potential. Main problem is that you can't often daisy chain a separate power pack to keep using the inverters during recharging and stuff. So you have to keep buying entire units for extended time instead of just buying more batteries. Then like you show here, they use cheap batteries but charge you what good batteries would cost, so you are paying quite a bit for reduced performance. I think the more that people like you that keep pointing out which units are better than others will motivate them to do better in making good units for a decent price.
Dude I am here for the batteries. It's all about the batteries on this channel. Please get some battery chemistry designers and electrical engineers on the channel. It is not possible to know too much about mobile power supplies. In about 3 years time these units will be available with knackered cells, and could be rebuilt easily as upgraded units.
towards your conclusion, yep it was too expensive, glad to see it doing ok still, I dont have the money for it but I feel that it is a solid universal powerbank
I'm pissed about how quickly the omnicharge self-discharges and how hard it is to get it to recover. It was expensive. I'll need to replace the cells to get it going again. Thank you for diving into this one and putting it up here for us to see.
So my Omnicharge never recovered. It ended up with one dead cell. Pried it apart.. where yours has just a dot of glue on four corners of the pack, mine was completely potted in by glue completely covering the top and bottom of the pack. I nearly destroyed the case prying it off, and I'm still not sure how I will get the cells out safely as they are bedded entirely in that mega-strong silicone glue. I did manage to desolder and remove the tabs from the BMS so perhaps I can cut the straps at the rear and work the cells out two at a time. Mine is the Indiegogo prototype version (no USB-C) so apparently I got the early total insanity assembly technique.
Finished the Omnicharge. Getting the old cells out was tricky because the potting was so strong that the shrink wrap insulating the cells was torn off, so I had to be very careful not to allow them to short to each other until I could snip them apart. My pre-production model had Panasonic (or maybe Sanyo) cells in it. Rebuilt with same model new Pana cells and working fine again. Only one cell had failed - the other five cells were load-cycle tested to be in good condition so I recycled them into other battery packs, such as my Harbor Freight drill which now has twice as much runtime and more torque.
Amazing brother, I love it when you improve someone else products. I knew you could do it. Can you improve all the products that you review? I bet everybody that watches your videos would buy the add ons Have a great day You have inspired me to learn more. Thanks
Hi, I design battery pack BMS’s. By looking at this it looks like this is a 1S6P configuration (typical for power packs to get high capacity). not 6S1P configuration. The BMS they are using it very simple with a single cell protection IC for each cell (Ablic s-8261 part). I would love to get a better look at the BMS PCBA to confirm !
Did it sync up? Let it charge and see how the percentage drops... If it charges but stays at 99 it means the capacity is just about what it's programmed to read
No, they have lied from the beginning. Note the information on the casing (4:38) , they said 20,400 mAh @ 3.6V (20,400 mAh / 6 = 3,400 mAh), even though the battery is 2,900 mAh.
Bagus Prasada is right, was about to comment his solution - literally no battery pack company ever calculated with 4,2V for the Wh - i mean NO ONE - it is always the nominal voltage at 3.6V or 3.7V - so yeah divide 20400 by 6 and there is the magic
@@bagusprasada Yes, but only since the new "Omni20+", the old one (Omni20) has built in Sanyo Cells. The joke is, that on the Omni20+ itself there is written in big "20.400mAh@3.6V", but in the small print there is written a "Rated Capacity" of 17.400mAh. I don't understand that.
Very GOOD. I need to know more about amp numbers and generator possibilities. For refrigerators, laptops that may not accept USB c, printer, air fryer, blenders and juicing machines and heaters/ AC...
Hey man, I really like your videos, awesome projects you get yourself into. I also see you have a bass and a guitar, what type of music do you play? also, I'm sure you've put together your own amps, it kinda reminds me when I was in engineering school. Take care bud!
i might do that as my laptop battery is pretty much dead, was thinking of putting samsung 30q in there, they are normally limited in w/h due to restrictions on planes i think its about 100w/h max on a plane so laptop manufacturers tend to keep batteries under this level, 30q will take my pack from 87 w/h (or was 87 w/h lol) to 97.2 w/h, not sure if ncr18650b will be suitable as its a dell precision laptop with i7 and dedicated graphics and has 180w power supply. i have a sunko welder too, only problem is opening the pack without destroying it
well ive opened my laptop battery (and filmed it lol), i am going to replace the cells ive ordered them but it has become apparent to me that the cells in my laptop battery are samsung icr18650-30b, so i cannot replace them with 30q as they are high voltage cells and charge at 4.35v, so 30q would likely end up going thermal nuclear as they charge at the regular 4.2v, i couldnt find a reliable supplier of 30b's so i have found a sanyo equivalent which is stocked at ecoluxshop who are a reputable supplier in my country sanyo ur18650zta which is spec'd pretty much identically as the 30b, so goes to show, you should always check the spec of the batteries you are replacing very carefully before you attempt to buy or replace them
oldskoolhead0 thats really amazing man. The issue tht was highlighted in the forums i read it said tht the ic onboard might not reset with the new cells so it discharge based on the old ones or the battery gauge will not be showing any % mine is using the samsung icr 18650 26h i pretty much have pack disassembled ready to replace but no solid evidence that it will work
@@cptcrogge just double checked on mine, the output is fully adjustable from 1v to 24.5v the adjustment is in 0.1 increments should cover most DC things you may want to power.
Opened up a JunoJumper Pro. Similar size to your RavPower. It uses lithium polymer, not lithium ion. A lot of packs are switching as they can get WAY more power density into some weirder shapes.
@@Aguy644 The story is true! I think I was lucky to have found an ignorant shop manager. I brought two Powerbanks. When I came back half an hour later, everything was sold out. And the powerbank must have really 15'600 mAh since it is heavy and takes over a day to charge! Regular price must be around 70$, Jehu's powerbank is overpriced, although it has an AC outlet
@@jurivlk5433 There is a lot of different things going on here. For one, most cheaper powerbanks are much more limited and lower quality in every way. Two, this uses Li-Ion and most cheaper banks use Li-Po. Three, most power banks do not have variable DC output, this does. This also has things like wireless charging and an OLED display. Lastly, the biggest reason for the cost difference is that this has a built in inverter. I don't know of anyone else offering an inverter that is more compact than this. Comparing this against a $10 power bank is like comparing prices of a Honda Goldwing and a moped.
Battery’s are the most important here in the power bank, and Why most of the company installed cheap low quality cells, why not using genuine cells like Panasonic,Sony,lg, etc.. what’s wrong with the people there. And this not the cheap pb.
Wanted to find a case in this form factor or slightly bigger that would allow me to add my own batteries with an AC adaptor. Don’t want to buy s full built unit and re build it.
Also, I think you should look at making usb and AC module that you can plug directly into one of your 18650 holders. You could have interchangeable modules such LED or boost / buck module.... that would be to cool.
After couple of months, my Omnicharge didn't want to charge anymore and after carefully watching your video, I replaced the China Corp cells with the Samsung INR21700-40T cells and I'm actually getting more battery life out of the powerbank.
You should really re-upload this video and call it "how to repair your Omnicharge powerbank" 😅
How it works better ? Bms works with the samsung inr21700 40t ? Cut off voltage korrect ?
@@rupertmauthner1119 bms actually looks just for voltages
@@rupertmauthner1119 aand temperature lol
How many cells were you able to fit into the old case?
Wanna repair another one?
"Look, I know I'm always talking about batteries, but today I want to change it up."
*Proceeds to talk about a battery*
:P
****this comment**** love it
You beat me to it. Good for you for having the self awareness :P
let's talk about power packs
This video was the 1st of many I watched from start to finish. Very well made and much more detailed then other videos, something I think you should do more often. Well done.
Review turned awesome when u took it apart and showed us all the parts. Turned really cool when you switched out the batteries. cool trouble-shooting at end. More reviews and upgrades PLEASE!
"Yeah, let me use resistor legs to connect my batteries in series, who needs nickel strips anyways."
I was going to say the exact same thing when he first started explaining that, then actually DOING it. I wouldn't trust those connections for anything!
I build my own 18650 4s1p cell packs (an other configs) for my long-distance iNav planes, an I would NEVER trust just some wire to make the connections, especially with the rapid temp. changes an altitudes that occur.
@@muttbone01 I don't understand, what's wrong with using enough wire? It's literally designed for the sole purpose of carrying electric current.
It's a shame these companies charge top dollar for their product but fail to deliver on top components as your video just demonstrated. Thanks for the great video and keep up the good work. Hope you could do an Omni Ultimate or Goal Zero Nomad/Sherpa next time and see which company does not compromise on quality!
This is a very good video. Thank you to the creator for making this and showing the dissection and replacement of the Chinese cells with better quality.
14:45 Yes! Someone that uses the right tool! You earned a Like for not using an soldering iron.
About the omnicharge percentage calibration. Omnicharge instructed me to fully discharge the battery with normal use as long as the omnicharge goes to mode where it just shows the empty battery icon. After that fully charge, and then it is recalibrated to show right percentage.
ponakka will it work even after changing the cells? Are those Chips calibrated to the specific mAh of the cells?
@@wildcardtrader2671 Any update ?
Nice job, fun to watch you tear down and upgrade batteries!
Cool video! It’s always good when replacing a battery/cells to actually test the system in use (measure current and voltage under load) then you can get a clear idea about the “real world” performance of the unit. I reckon they could be taking those cells down to 2.5V to get the extra watt-hours.
Arrrrrgh!!!! This is now my favorite UA-cam Channel. I need to binge watch this weekend.
They seriously put in a lot of work and love to the circuits, though.
I have two 1st gen Omni 20s (without USB C), and one of them had a busted battery due to water damage in a horribly rainy day. Turns out the circuit not only protected frying other guys connected to it, but even managed to save itself, and came back fully functional after just a cell replacement. Best crowdfunding experience so far. You don't run into this level of overengineering these days anymore, yet they did it.
Cells obviously didn't get the love the circuit counterparts did though. They all had cell failures after about two years of use, and weren't even the highest capacity cells of the size.
How did you replace the cells? And how was your wiring done? Please let me know
I have one indiegogo pre-production model with a failed cell also. However, they were Sanyo or Pana cells, and the ones that didn't fail all load-discharge-tested to nearly new capacity so I reused them in other things. I have mine back together with new cells now. My HVDC output doesn't work, don't know if it ever did. Maybe a failed mosfet but I don't feel like tearing into it again.
Hi Jehu.
I was one of the Omnicharge Ultimate project backer on indiegogo. After your teardown exposing they have switched from Sanyo GA to chinese bak cells with lower capacity, they quickly edited out the original specs and now it no longer says 'Samsung/LG/Panasonic cells inside'.
However, the units that are shippied and are yet to ship have printed on the battery pack 40,200mAh and 145Wh respectively, which were true if they had sticked to 3,350mAh cells. Since they switched to 2,900mAh cells the energy rating dropped to 125Wh, which makes it fall into false advertising category.
After this I performed a discharte test on my Omni Ultimate and got 75% efficiency based on 145Wh, which makes more sense if I based it on 125Wh which is what is has in reality.
I contacted indiegogo and all they had to say is to contact the campaign manager, and all omni has to explain to me is these chinese cells perform better than the originally planned ones, the Sanyo GA. Obviously a lie because both rated 3C discharge. If they really wanted to go high drain there were plenty of options available such as Samsung 30Q, Sony VTC6, LGHG2 and a lot more.
So effectively there are almost 3,000 Omni ultimate units delivered around the world with chinese cells in them, fake capacity claim, and being potentially dangerous. This is a huge issue and I hope you can help me to spread awareness of this.
Look at that screen, it's nice. A nice little screen. So nice, the nicest screen around.
So nice
When disconnecting the BMS keep in mind that some of them have internal memory that stops working without electricity.
This happened to a laptop battery back with low capacity cells. I tried to exchange the dead cells by new ones which lead to bricking the battery pack (not recognized by the computer anymore). I read later that you were supposed to connect every part of battery pack to the according voltage in order to keep the BMS alive. This makes the soldering process much more complicated.
Does this apply to this powerbank?
@@johnny_123b I hope not since I'm planning on doing this, and everything went well in the video so I suppose it should be fine.
Hey Jehu. You make it look so easy replacing the batteries. Very good and neat n tidy.
No before and after capacity rest?
That was the first thing that came to mind. All that effort and no data to show it improved anything.
The improvements might be weaker than you think. A reddit-user has replaced his BAK-Cells (2.900mAh) with LG M36 (3.600mAh) of his Omni Ultimate. He expected an capacity increase about 20%, but his capacity test on the DC-Out shows, that the real increase was only about 5%.
Can't get enough of this channel. Soaking up the info...
Good and fast explained.
wonderful job Jehu 👍
I simply loved this video... it's probably the third time I'm watching it.. first time I focused on the battery upgrade but next two times I saw it for it's small circuitry. I would really appreciate if you could please share the circuit diagram and the components used.
A bunch of dead ones came into my work, thanks for helping me rebuild them!
Did it work?
@@DELTASECComputer Yes, the cells are very poor quality and don't seem to last long. Mine were locked by the facility they came from though unfortunately..
This means with the correct equipment and now how one could renew the unit after the cells run out
Hey awesome video for watching the process. I watched as you hot glued the thermistor onto the battery, but that may be dangerous as you aren't creating a proper thermal pathway and created an insulating barrier which will allow the temperature to reach much higher and read much lower. Usually just sticking it down with aluminum tape is the best way as it allows a more true temperature reading.
Why no real test on the device and BAK battery?
I recommend you to just take everything apart from the old case, 3D print a new one, transfer everything to the new one, add replace those with the "Tesla Panasonic cells" or LG HG2 and then enjoy longer run time.
Also you can add an XT60 connector for faster charging or even a buck/boost converter for getting a additional voltage range from 1,25v to 35v. Unfortunately you will not get the best amperage but it has a lot of use cases. I personally installed a XL6009 buck/boost module (I got 11 modules for 12,74$) and it is perfect for my use cases like powering my bicycle lights which are powered by 6 AA batteries :P
I hate AA batteries since they're really quickly drained and that's why I always replace them with a Lipo cell and my diy mini buck/boost converter
Or make it a 6s 3p pack
your pack looks way better then the factory one, very nice
Hey... so yeah, after watching your review *cough* teardown mod video geek-fest, I decided to buy one. The link you provided is to the OmniCharge "13", a watered-down weak-arse version of the OmniCharge. I ended up finally receiving it, without USB-C or wireless charging. It's confusing as hell that they have completely different devices being called the same thing. You might want to update that link...
Idk how you can mistake these for the same-thing. The naming convention is pretty straightforward. One is called the "Omni 13", the other "Omni 20". One is meant to be more compact/portable while the other being more of a feature packed powerhouse.
Hi, you got the Omnicharge 20+. No one reviewed that unit as yet. It’s not available for purchase. It’s new because they introduced USB C to their Omnicharge 20.
How do you know about it? I didnt find anything on the internet about it.
@@jopi24johannes Hi... I have the omni charge 20 and it does not come with USB C.. The unit in this video is labelled Onmicharge 20+. I also didn't find it anywhere online...so I guess its a pre release model.
GuteMine24 they did communicate the + to the backers of their campaigns.
What happened to your dang spacebar
I was also surprised about qi charger, because it was dropped from production model i got.
What reviewers aren't doing like you? "I wanna take it apart." That's why I watch your content. I am the same with everything.
ave channel has been doing it for several years,and its just as entertaining if you can understand some of what he is saying?aparantly canada has a different dialect
To get 72 watts they've multiplied 2.9 amps times 4.15 volts which is the maximum operating voltage instead of multiplying by 3.7 volts which is the nominal voltage.
That's cheating and 9 out of 10 manufacturers do it because since one started doing it the rest followed to remain competitive in spec sheets. It is misleading and should be prohibited.
This is actually an important matter that shouldn't be overlooked. If you are a lawyer or know one interested in pursuing this, it is very possible to transform this issue into a class action. It's extremely probable that there will be jurisprudence after the class action ends and so society will have won.
A common trick of the industry! Like Tesla that only talks about maximal power whilst the standard of the industry is nominal power indications. So the 69 kW Tesla turns to a 450 kW! Normally, power output of cars is measured by DIN-norms that stipulate the power output of the car engines Bing measured during one hour! A class action should be induced against phoney Musk, the biggest liar on Earth!
@@jurivlk5433 Please point me to a car that's power output is measured during one hour of use and not a regular dyno. Talk about being out of your depth.
@@flavablame Every European car is measured after the DIN-standard or Deutsche Industrie Norm. That standard stipulates the nominal output of the engine as being during at least one continuous hour! Today, the DIN standard is the world standard. In the 70s, there were SAE-HP which were generally much higher because of measuring the pure engine, without the exhaust system, water pump, alternator, climate control and so on. That gave birth to 7.4 l engines with 300 HP SAE and 180 DIN HP! Tesla is the biggest scam ever! These shitboxes have like 69 nominal kW or 94 DIN HP output only! That explains why they are so incredibly sorry slow turtles. A car with real 700 HP would make like 370 km/h or over over 235 mph! Got it, my son???
It would be nice to have a regulation requiring the detailed calculation supporting the final wattage, like with your food ingredients or mortgage loans (lender is required to provide standardized calculations of effective interest rate, etc.). Maybe society could draft an information regulation for batteries that is like the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) required for chemical products. Until we get the regulation, consumers should follow the Caveat Emptor advice and assume the worst possible calculation as above. We also have the choice of rewarding the manufacturers that provide lots of good detail by paying a premium and leaving the heavy discounters to respond with the desired information when their sales drop.
@@flavablame many cars ar limited for various reasons but mainly for safety and reliability so i would never judge an engine by the car's maximum speed ... just put the cars on dyno and that would be it ...
Thats what we like, no nonsens and loaded with facts!
Awesome upgrade!
Thanks for the dedicated work!
You are a kick ass electrical engineer.
Great video this is where you shine.... don't stop
I like all of your videos but this one is the best! Excellent video, very informative!
Totally agree.
Man, im addicted to watch your videos dude. Your content is gold👌🏼👌🏼
I'm doing a review, now I want to tear it apart. Jehu going full ... AvE (BOLTR)!
I like those bound volumes in your bookshelf. Excellent vid!!
Jehu...thanks for opening our eyes and improving our lives,our world thirst for renewable affordable energy
I'm gonna attempt this, I have this exact power pack and one or more cells has gone bad efter years of use and abuse, charging it now gets it really warm and it doesn't hold a charge as good as it used to. Great vid, tho I would've liked it to be a bit slower and more thorough 😅 but all the essential parts are shown so I think I'll manage 👍
Did it work?
Mine died too.
Omnicharge: "we are useing 18650 Li-ion cells by Panasonic/LG chem/Samsung" ahhh okay
Probably not untrue, strictly speaking. Those offbrand cells are probably B or C binned cells from one of the big 3, just re-wrapped and re-serialized. The nicer ones get tested so the advertised capacity is accurate, the cheaper ones don't and vary wildly in performance.
So really, they should say "we are using shitty 18650 Li-ion cells by Panasonic/LG chem/Samsung that didn't pass QC".
@@jttech44 But they are lying since Omni20+ with the capacity. 6 * 2.9Ah equals 17.4Ah, not 20.4Ah.
In the old "Omni20" model they used quality cells from Sanyo (3.350mAh i think).
wow, you are always taking it to the next level ... and then to the level after that! great video (as always) sir
Great video, i just found out my omnicharge died. this is going to be a fun a little repair project next.
don't use the AC when you can avoid it. use an anywatt barrel to usbc-pd to charge your laptop. that's far more efficient
I'm really like to watch your video which is talking about batteries, and I really learned things from these video, thank you Sir.
You re definitely behind the curve, I've had a 110 capable battery charge pack since 2015. Black web... the only thing I don't like about it is it has a dedicated charger. You can't charge it with USB. I found it and used it living in my shack in the Poconos and in my tent and truck in Florida. Also what I found useful, battery jumper box with AC outlet, USB and... yeah, you're behind the curve!!!
15:18 thanks for resistor leg hack 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏❤❤
I like building my own, my smallest one I have are. , 5 ah, and I have one that is 15-17 ah, depends on the cells I used can't remember the exact capacity. I'm looking into faster charging now, the power bank boards dont output the current to charge fast, I'm thinking 3-5 amps to recharge the bank.. With a high capacity, its way below 1c. Great video ,,,...
Good Stuff Sir. Unfortunately the initial cost is well above my pay grade.
Hi, can you do a comparison to the Jackery Power Bar? Would be interesting to see what batteries they use.
At the end, back to battery talk. The battery man.
You should check out the Goal Zero Sherpa 100AC. Do a test and see what cells they run and see if you can improve love the vids keep it up!
Great video…Thank you for the knowledge and the information. I wish I can upgrade mine to the better batteries. But I don’t know how.
I love how you say battery’s
The commercial power banks have a lot of great potential. Main problem is that you can't often daisy chain a separate power pack to keep using the inverters during recharging and stuff. So you have to keep buying entire units for extended time instead of just buying more batteries. Then like you show here, they use cheap batteries but charge you what good batteries would cost, so you are paying quite a bit for reduced performance. I think the more that people like you that keep pointing out which units are better than others will motivate them to do better in making good units for a decent price.
Dude I am here for the batteries. It's all about the batteries on this channel. Please get some battery chemistry designers and electrical engineers on the channel. It is not possible to know too much about mobile power supplies. In about 3 years time these units will be available with knackered cells, and could be rebuilt easily as upgraded units.
towards your conclusion, yep it was too expensive, glad to see it doing ok still, I dont have the money for it but I feel that it is a solid universal powerbank
I'm pissed about how quickly the omnicharge self-discharges and how hard it is to get it to recover. It was expensive. I'll need to replace the cells to get it going again. Thank you for diving into this one and putting it up here for us to see.
So my Omnicharge never recovered. It ended up with one dead cell. Pried it apart.. where yours has just a dot of glue on four corners of the pack, mine was completely potted in by glue completely covering the top and bottom of the pack. I nearly destroyed the case prying it off, and I'm still not sure how I will get the cells out safely as they are bedded entirely in that mega-strong silicone glue. I did manage to desolder and remove the tabs from the BMS so perhaps I can cut the straps at the rear and work the cells out two at a time. Mine is the Indiegogo prototype version (no USB-C) so apparently I got the early total insanity assembly technique.
Finished the Omnicharge. Getting the old cells out was tricky because the potting was so strong that the shrink wrap insulating the cells was torn off, so I had to be very careful not to allow them to short to each other until I could snip them apart. My pre-production model had Panasonic (or maybe Sanyo) cells in it. Rebuilt with same model new Pana cells and working fine again. Only one cell had failed - the other five cells were load-cycle tested to be in good condition so I recycled them into other battery packs, such as my Harbor Freight drill which now has twice as much runtime and more torque.
Video run time perfect just long enough,very interesting 10/10 keep em coming
That was fun. I like my Imuto model Z2 ~ 75 Wh. I got it because it could do fast charging on usb c for my nexus 6p.
That gooey stuff is a conformal coming Jehu.
I'll be downloading this video as it'll be useful when I need to change the batteries in my unit lol
Your videos are like ASMR for me. Thanks!
Is that inverter a "Modified Sine" or "Pure Sine" it could make a difference depending on what you want to plug into it.
It looks like this has an MPPT solar controller in it. Can you verify that actually works well with the portable solar panels.
Enjoyed this video quite a bit.
Hey guys, I know I usually talk about batteries but today I'll change it up a bit and talk about some batteries.
Wow, just got my Omni20 last week, need to send mines to you for an upgrade
Amazing brother, I love it when you improve someone else products. I knew you could do it.
Can you improve all the products that you review?
I bet everybody that watches your videos would buy the add ons
Have a great day
You have inspired me to learn more.
Thanks
Hi, I design battery pack BMS’s. By looking at this it looks like this is a 1S6P configuration (typical for power packs to get high capacity). not 6S1P configuration. The BMS they are using it very simple with a single cell protection IC for each cell (Ablic s-8261 part). I would love to get a better look at the BMS PCBA to confirm !
1S6P would be 3,6V only
You are so funny. Thanks for this upgrade video. Maybe you will start a new trend. “Upgrade your Stuff, DIY Style”. 👍👍👍😎😎😎
Should do a before and after discharge test to show the actual results.
Loved this video. Yes let’s open this, then let’s replace it. Me like yayyyy!
Did it sync up? Let it charge and see how the percentage drops... If it charges but stays at 99 it means the capacity is just about what it's programmed to read
2.9 x 4.2 x 6 = 73,08 [Wh] (here magic happens ;) instead of 3.7V they count 4.2V of full battery or 4.15 IDK)
No, they have lied from the beginning. Note the information on the casing (4:38) , they said 20,400 mAh @ 3.6V (20,400 mAh / 6 = 3,400 mAh), even though the battery is 2,900 mAh.
@@bagusprasada You are right
@@Atetus94 Was about to comment the same thing....then I noticed Mr. Bagus Prasadas comment.... I I guess he is right...
Bagus Prasada is right, was about to comment his solution - literally no battery pack company ever calculated with 4,2V for the Wh - i mean NO ONE - it is always the nominal voltage at 3.6V or 3.7V - so yeah divide 20400 by 6 and there is the magic
@@bagusprasada Yes, but only since the new "Omni20+", the old one (Omni20) has built in Sanyo Cells.
The joke is, that on the Omni20+ itself there is written in big "20.400mAh@3.6V", but in the small print there is written a "Rated Capacity" of 17.400mAh. I don't understand that.
Great Video as always, educational
Very GOOD. I need to know more about amp numbers and generator possibilities. For refrigerators, laptops that may not accept USB c, printer, air fryer, blenders and juicing machines and heaters/ AC...
Hey man, I really like your videos, awesome projects you get yourself into. I also see you have a bass and a guitar, what type of music do you play? also, I'm sure you've put together your own amps, it kinda reminds me when I was in engineering school. Take care bud!
I am really a big fan of of lifepo4 cells. I know they have less energy density but they simply circuits , safer, last longer and not super expensive.
How about upgrading a laptop battery pack(used) instead of buying a new one
i might do that as my laptop battery is pretty much dead, was thinking of putting samsung 30q in there, they are normally limited in w/h due to restrictions on planes i think its about 100w/h max on a plane so laptop manufacturers tend to keep batteries under this level, 30q will take my pack from 87 w/h (or was 87 w/h lol) to 97.2 w/h, not sure if ncr18650b will be suitable as its a dell precision laptop with i7 and dedicated graphics and has 180w power supply. i have a sunko welder too, only problem is opening the pack without destroying it
well ive opened my laptop battery (and filmed it lol), i am going to replace the cells ive ordered them but it has become apparent to me that the cells in my laptop battery are samsung icr18650-30b, so i cannot replace them with 30q as they are high voltage cells and charge at 4.35v, so 30q would likely end up going thermal nuclear as they charge at the regular 4.2v, i couldnt find a reliable supplier of 30b's so i have found a sanyo equivalent which is stocked at ecoluxshop who are a reputable supplier in my country sanyo ur18650zta which is spec'd pretty much identically as the 30b, so goes to show, you should always check the spec of the batteries you are replacing very carefully before you attempt to buy or replace them
oldskoolhead0 thats really amazing man. The issue tht was highlighted in the forums i read it said tht the ic onboard might not reset with the new cells so it discharge based on the old ones or the battery gauge will not be showing any % mine is using the samsung icr 18650 26h i pretty much have pack disassembled ready to replace but no solid evidence that it will work
oldskoolhead0 hope you can get it working make a video dude because there aren’t many
Idk about that version but on the first one you could adjust the barrel voltage from the menu.... made it great for projects.
Really? D:
@@cptcrogge yeah, I'd use to run 3.3v and 5v projects and then charge my 12v Bluetooth speaker
But I think it could go up to 20v
@@sikz26300 Awesome, I found only powerbanks with 5, 12-20V range for laptops but never any which supports 3-12V out of the box.
@@cptcrogge just double checked on mine, the output is fully adjustable from 1v to 24.5v the adjustment is in 0.1 increments should cover most DC things you may want to power.
Great vid bro🤗 cant wait till the next one.
Very good love the upgrade!
Opened up a JunoJumper Pro. Similar size to your RavPower. It uses lithium polymer, not lithium ion. A lot of packs are switching as they can get WAY more power density into some weirder shapes.
Great video i like that you went from a review two an up grade. !!
you are good at this congrats
Too good man love your work
Its very overpriced.
I recently bought a 155600 Ah Powerbank for 10$!
@@Aguy644 The story is true! I think I was lucky to have found an ignorant shop manager. I brought two Powerbanks. When I came back half an hour later, everything was sold out. And the powerbank must have really 15'600 mAh since it is heavy and takes over a day to charge! Regular price must be around 70$, Jehu's powerbank is overpriced, although it has an AC outlet
It was cheap of their kickstarter and if came with a charger.
@@jurivlk5433 There is a lot of different things going on here. For one, most cheaper powerbanks are much more limited and lower quality in every way. Two, this uses Li-Ion and most cheaper banks use Li-Po. Three, most power banks do not have variable DC output, this does. This also has things like wireless charging and an OLED display. Lastly, the biggest reason for the cost difference is that this has a built in inverter. I don't know of anyone else offering an inverter that is more compact than this.
Comparing this against a $10 power bank is like comparing prices of a Honda Goldwing and a moped.
@@RabbitsInBlackgot this by ba backing them. was cheap for what it provides
Great video.
"This ac inverter is rated at..." What it's rated at is 3.5 stars on Amazon.
4.5 stars*
That cool putting a good 18650 battery.
Thanks!
Why didn't you test the BAK cells for capacity and quantify the result?
Battery’s are the most important here in the power bank, and Why most of the company installed cheap low quality cells, why not using genuine cells like Panasonic,Sony,lg, etc.. what’s wrong with the people there. And this not the cheap pb.
Very true and sadly there are products that do use good quality panasonic cells but are also much cheaper.
Looks like a knock off of the Goal Zero Sherpa Power Pack- which is really well engineered!
thank you for an informative video.
Any update on the project? Has BMS worked well, or is it calibrated to old capacities?
Wanted to find a case in this form factor or slightly bigger that would allow me to add my own batteries with an AC adaptor. Don’t want to buy s full built unit and re build it.
Also, I think you should look at making usb and AC module that you can plug directly into one of your 18650 holders. You could have interchangeable modules such LED or boost / buck module.... that would be to cool.
Great video!!! Stuff like this is so inspiring!