Good project but not useful if you drill and screw all day,it adds too much weight. Even with normal batteries,let's say an impact drive is more than 1kg...with this pack more than 2kg. And also if it slightly increases speed to the tool it will deteriorate the bits faster and more damage to the gears. Maybe I am wrong as I don't know much about electricity
Thank you for being “over perfectionist”. It is good. There are few things that’s so perfect….being 1) Your extreme skills in 3D printing 2) Extracting a running vehicle’s power supply for spot welding 3) 33.33 RPM turn table for exhibition of your end product. An unconventional display device❗️
@@sreekumarUSA Thanks for your kind words! Luckily I have a better spotwelder now that I can plug into mains power, but the car battery definitely helped me out when I was doing this project 😆
Excellent design! People just don't get how much time goes into designing a 3d model like this, especially with non engineering software, and filming the process is another story..... it takes a real enthusiast. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the nice words! It definitely wasn't as simple at it looks in the video, there were a lot of blood, sweat and tears involved before I got it the way it is now 😅 And using 3Ds max didn't help the case indeed.. I'm learning fusion 360 at the moment whenever I have some spare time, and that's also the software I'm using for the next project.
@@Solipsfilm what a lot of people (who have never 3d printed) dont realise is that buying and setting up a 3d printer, perfecting printing and slicing, knowing how to configure the printing parameters etc. is about 1% of 3d printing. The amount of people (I would say over 99% of 3d printer owners, including owners of high end machines) who have the 'perfect' setup but their printing is limited to printing out Pokémon off thingiverse and other similar trinkets is amazing. Actually designing things to print, popularly known as 'CAD', is the BIG stumbling block in 3d printer use, and most people who buy a printer and throw it in the garage never to be seen again after a couple of months do it because they cant use CAD. CAD for 3d printing is the same as CAD for subtractive methods (milling, drilling, lathework, etc). There are basically 'lego brick' entry level options, mostly websites but also the popular games 'Minecraft' and 'From the Depths' which have this feature, but all of them have the same problem - you are designing in blocks, so all you can print is blocky things. Above that there is fully featured CAD software such as 3dsmax, fusion360, and freecad, which pretty much requires a degree in engineering to understand. There is nothing inbetween, no 'killer apps' that allow people to progress from the lego brick tools and work thier way up to the top end CAD software.
The stringy-nes of PETG can be mostly eliminated by dehydrating the filament and keeping it dry, it's a very hygroscopic filament and when it absorbs moisture it gets stringy and the resultant prints tend to be more brittle than they should be. I print a lot of stuff in PETG and have had good success with dehydrating in a regular food dehydrator at about 70C for about 8 hours, afterwards I put the filament into my dry box (plastic box with desiccant and a hygrometer) and print from the dry box directly; I get excellent results this way with very little stringing.
16:15 A Turntable makes things turn, who would have thought :D Great Project, i love the end result. maaaybe ill do something similar with Einhell´s "Power X-Change" battery system when i finally get a 3d Printer.
Just a safety tip. When removing your car battery, always remove the negative connection first, so that if your metal ratchet/wrench touches another metal part of the car, you aren't shorting the positive to ground. This is the same reason you should always connect positive first when putting the battery back in.
@@Solipsfilm Yeah, first time I was working on something with my vehicle's battery, I learned that lesson first-hand. Now I've got a ratchet with a melted spot on the handle and a matching melted spot on my alternator mount... Turns out that a battery rated to put out almost 900 amps can do some damage to steel real fast!
I used 3DSM for 20 years. I ALWAYS wanted to switch to blender, but with all my experience I couldn't ever make the jump. I used blender back around 2002 quite a bit. Well I got tired of Autodesks outrageous pricing. I switched to blender and its literally 100x better in every single way. Also within the first day I was pretty proficient, so it didn't take me as long to get comfortable with it as i thought it would. The only thing I like better in Max is the smoothing groups (which doesn't matter unless you're doing game design). Other than that blender 100% of the way. I switched to blender about 4 months ago. So far I've done 2 professional industrial designs in it. Its so much better. The measurements alone are worth it. I do still find myself using hotkeys from Max and it makes me wanna scream outloud haha. But mostly because I spent 20 years inside of an ancient software whenever I should have just stayed with blender all along.
I love maker videos, but usually when I watch a build I'm thinking... 'you could have been more careful with that part.' But not with you. You are one of the only makers so meticulous that the quality comes out nearly consumer-ready. Very impressive. Subscribed.
I would like to see this done with makita batteries. They also have pretty particular battery management boards and the aftermarket boards sometimes don't work, don't charge as fast or even don't cell balance. Great video!
@@henryairconcepts2999 Then don't buy the cheapest one you can find. There are quite a few you can buy with basically the same board as the newer OEM Makita battery's.
what i want to see is a large battery pack like this, but mounted to your belt or backpack, with a umbilical cord type thing running to the tool. would take so much weight off the tool. just like an ego chainsaw
@@RetiredRhetoricalWarhorse yeah, I've considered many times designing my own battery pack. 2 or 3 OEM batteries in parallel and mounting them inside a modified camel back. Hardest part would be modeling the connector for 3d printing
Nice build, however triple strips on the series connection that barely take any amps and using a single strip for the parallels which take all the current is just a bit shady and will definitely lead to high temperature inside the pack as well as high losses due to heated up nickel ! Usually you reinforce the connection in the direction the current travels in this case between the series groups and not along them. Very nice project still 👌
I’ve been thinking about doing this lately for my jobsite radio that runs off a Milwaukee battery. Since you used a BMS from a smaller battery pack, wouldn’t that limit your charge/discharge current to what the smaller battery pack was?
I hear 3d printer have quite a learning curve when you first start. It ain't just click and print. Alot or little numbers you need first but after you get the process it goes smooth. I believe I'm just a electrician and never really used one before but am interested.
The 3D printer is really one of my best purchases I did in years, it really brought my designing process to a whole new level. Yes, there's definitely a learning curve, especially if you want the prints to turn out really nice but it is so rewarding once you really figure it out :) Good luck with it! And if you attempt the project, feel free to send me a picture of the finished product ;) Solipsfilm@gmail.com
Really nice Work Mate. The designing was well thought out in my opinion. There were a few things that I would've changed. But, the way you were talking you seen some changes that would've improved the over all Product too. Thanks for sharing your hard earned knowledge with me. It's appreciated.
TIP for Measurements ... Scan some graph paper or 5mm sq lines paper and print it onto clear overhead projector film Place the clear film on the scanner bed and then the battery case on top It's easy to measure now
Great video. I would like to see 3D printed projects with battery adapter... where you can use Makita battery on Parkside (or the other way around), etc. Usually you can find very cheaply cordless drills but batteries are expensive. So if you can use one battery on multiple tools/companies that would be great.
Watching you putting so much effort in your work I be happy 2 order adapters from you -did buy some adapter b4 but wasn't the quality what I expected-and now i was looking adapter from parkside battery to dewalt and find on Internet pics and can c is not perfect fit -bit much forward then the original battery eould b like...
Le has puesto tanto amor, felicidad y diversión a tu proyecto y a la edición del vídeo de esta publicación, que me contagiaste de todos esos buenos sentimientos, excelente trabajo hermano, te has ganado un subscriptor y muchos likes mas. En lo personal no le invertiria todo ese tiempo a un proyecto así, porque ya existen productos en el mercado, pero hay muchas ideas que pudieran llevar la misma lógica y metodología de trabajo, eso es lo realmente importante, no el objetivo si no lo aprendido. saludos
@@Solipsfilm Ach sooo du sprichst deutsch, super Sache. Dann kann ich meine Frage auch einfacher formulieren: Die 43 A sind ja durch die Sicherung des 2 A BMS Boards von Parkside limitiert. Selbst der neue 8 AH Akku geht bis 100 A. Du meintest ja das du eine andere Sicherung einbauen kannst und damit dann >200 A ziehst. Nun die Frage: Für welche Sicherung hast Du dich entschieden und lädst du dazu noch ein Video mit einem entsprechenden Test hoch? Wäre super! Ansonsten TOP Video. Werde Abonieren.
The temperature sensor is typically a 10k NTC thermistor, if you damage it or it needs to be replaced. It also does not matter which way round the thermistor is soldered to the board. When I used to work with Li-ion cells I used a large ceramic tile to protect the bench from inevitable burns! Speaking of burns remove all rings / watches etc! Metal jewellery can arc and the heat from a short circuit is almost instant! Get yourself some CA glue accelerator spray too.
@@davidbarker3591 I see you're a battery connoisseur! I never had any luck with Milwaukee liion, 50/50 with the snap ons. Put it down to BMS locked when they fail
Thanks! I wish I could make it for many other batteries, but I only have Parkside and Bosh myself.. Plus it's so much work and I can already barely find the time to work on my next project already 🙈😅
Great project but a bit safety precaution. PETG is not a great material for cell holder - it creeps when heated (you can use PET bottles as heat shrink tubing). It means your cell holder will start squeezing the cells quite hard which is not the greatest idea (fire risk and all that stuff). Using proper materials for the job would ensure project longevity and spare you nasty surprises down the line. If I needed more temperature resistance and only had a stock Ender 3 I would chose ABS/ASA for the job. If your printer have all metal hotend and can reach higher temperatures I would stick with Glass Fiber reinforced nylon (requires hardened nozzles). It's what bodies of most power tools and batteries are made of - it's reasonably stiff and impact resistant, has a great temperature stability and should be quite printable without enclosure (haven't tried to print it yet but heard it doesn't warp as much as normal nylon which I had moderate success printing in quite cold garage ~15 *C). Don't use Carbon Fiber reinforced filaments as them might end up electrically conductive due to Carbon Fiber strands in them.
LIPO packs is ideal for that spotwelder.. I use 2x 4S 2800mah in parellel and it gives all the spotwelding umff I need. all in all, been very impressed with it... its rated for 12v (3s) but I dont see any problems with 4S 16v
Great Video Your battery can definitely deliver more than 43 amps even the parkside 8ah does double of that. The only problem is if you try to pull this current the fuse in the PCB of the 2ah battery will blow
Interesting.. Makes sense that the 2ah battery fuse wouldn't be designed to handle this amount of current, thanks for the tip, I'll definitely reinforce it! :) I did a short circuit test with the batteries, they deliver around 70A/cell, that's obviously not what they're made for but that would mean this battery could deliver 210A at it's absolute maximum 😆
2ah and 4ah batteries have the same fuse as far as i can see so to me it seems its the biggest fuse boards and contacts may handle. If it operates correctly with original fuse i would rather leave it as is
The amont of current he can pull doesn't depend on the battery, it depends on the load! If he uses it with the standard tools that are designed to be used with the standard batteries, there's no way he can pull a greater amount of current from it... This battery will last very very long without any decrease in performance. So it's ok to use with the standard PCB.
Really cool idea. 👍 However, did you check the voltages of the batteries before paralleling them? Charges in each battery should be roughly the same so that they work perfectly.
I did check that but forgot to mention it in the video.. That's indeed important :) Tomorrow I'm putting out a little follow-up video with some updates, this one's also included 👍🏼
@@orppranator5230 You are right! but it only matters when the voltage difference is like 1 volt or more. Usually new batteries are within 0.5 volts of each other. So there is no surge current which is more than the c rating of the battery. Its more important in the series conections. What I do is. First measure all the voltages. If within 0.5 volts then i connect all of the batteries in parallell using small neodymium magnets and nickel plated strips. and leave them for like 24 hours. After that they are perfectly balanced and ready to assemble.
Interesting that original bms can be used. I came across your video as i was searching for a bms that i was thinking it needs changed when upgrading the parkside 12v team batteries. Their 4ah 12v battery has 6 cells of 2ah, and was thinking to just replace them for some 3ah ones, would make it a 6ah and overall better quality battery with good cells.
I'm sorry but I dont have the time to make more at the moment.. But maybe I can help you out with the printed parts? www.etsy.com/nl/listing/1211082739/3d-printed-15ah-parkside-battery-as-seen?ref=listings_manager_grid
Do this for Milwaukee M18 packs and I will personally donate you the price of their M18 battery pack :D I would love to buy an old used Milwaukee M18 2ah pack and extend it to 12ah instead of buying a new M18 12ah for freaking 250 European schillings... Their tools are amazing but the price of batteries is just ridiculous. Anyway, you have earned my sub :)
Awesome video my friend. Left a sub ofc. I'm a little dissapointed youtube suggested you so late for me, but bettter late than never I guess Keep doing what you do. I'll be here watching it
Hi Marvin! Thanks for the kind words, I'm glad you like my video's! It's really a fight against the algorithm to get out there, but you probably know all about that, being a UA-camr yourself😅 I just checked your channel, really nicely done as well, good explanations and good camera work. 👌🏻 You've got a sub back!
My cat died because of you! What kind of monsters are we for it? Nooooooooooooooo! Now I only "Taut I Taw a Puddy Tat". Sylvester come back. Oh the tragedy.
Nice video thanks. At minute 11:46 - when you remove a car battery you must disconnect the negative first, then positive. When connecting the battery connect positive first.
@@_24___ While unscrewing the positive terminal you may touch metal piece of engine or body that is still connected to the negative terminal of your battery. You can even touch the negative terminal directly on battery but even disconnecting negative first won't help you there. If you short the car battery it wil weld your wrench or Allen key, glow it red hot, discharge and destroy the battery. But in the worst case scenerio the battery itself will explode due to rapid hydrogen and oxygen release.
3:42 While that works just fine, you should invest in a Dremel kit or "Jewelers" rotary tool if you dont have one. They make little cut off wheels for those that you can do finer work with, no need to bust out the big boy grinder.
I also got that cheap spotwelder.. and I was very impressed with it, as its ideal for my use and I can just use LIPO packs. I use 2x 4S 2800mah in parellel.. it gives more then enough umff to spotwelderf nikkestrips up and beyound 0.2mm. I know its rated for 12v (3s) but looking at the component and the cap.. i did not see any problem why 4S lipo (16v) should not be tolerated, and it makes a huge difference in the spotwelding potency. That small spotwelder was exactly what I needed when i purchased it some years back from BG at around 12USD, and also checked it with my oscilioscope.. its enegy rating from 1E to 99E is 1 to 1 with ms, on my scope and you can also use a footpedal with its small barrel DC connector if you need, but its "automatic" weld-feature works great.. and I love it doesnt take any space and can simply just grapp some of my RC lipo packs when I need to spotweld. for the price it was a steal.. but using 4S packs in parell made a big difference in spotwelding potency. versus fx 3s packs. Great build and impressive video from such a small channel (+1).. got many Parkside tools, X20 line , and also X12, .. and sadly also a lot of the Performance BL line (the old version with 2.5A and 5A batterypacks that carried Samsung 25R cells).. and which you cant get new batteries for, as the Performance line shifted to X20 battery-hinge variant. a tacky move from Parkside, dropping the ball on all the buyers that invested in their performance line.. IMO Parkside should at least make an adapter, so they can use X20 packs and buyers not ending up with quality brushless tools you cant get batteries for. dang, that x20 gluegun just look dwarfed alongside that pack. Im using 4A X20 with the same gluegun.. and its not a bad gluegun with its price in mind.. can deliver quite a bit of hot glue in a shortwhile and ideal for certain stuff. Are you sure that 2A entry batterymanagement system are not choking that huge pack after the original 2A X20 pack current-standards.. just as when your charging it will be the slow charging speeds. wondering if you actually gonna feel the effect of that huge pack.. like one useally do when using bigger batterypacks and not just longer runtime.. going from 2A to 4A pack big difference in torque on most of my powertools.. same on the older brushless with 2.5A vs 5A..angle grinder would way easier stall on low sized packs..
Seriously though a very good video to go with the Thinginverse print, Attention to detail is very very high. thank you... My SDS drill has broken after only a few uses, its like the brushes have disappeared... That would be excellent for the torch they sell
It does indeed require some prior knowledge to do this but it's never too late to start learning the skills needed! Personally I started getting into the whole 3D printing because I was determined to make the 18650 power bank from K r a l y n 3D, that was also way above my skillset at the time but I forced myself to do it until I succeeded :) Anyway, glad you liked the video :)
Great project, but I have one advice. You have doubled the strips for parallel cells insted of serial connections. Actualy it doesn't make sense. Most of the current flows between serial cells (short horizontal stripes) - thoes should be thick. The long stripes connected directly to PCB can be actualy very thin, throu them flows almost no current 🙂
Yea i just bought the case and bm board on ebay for 15$… came with nickel strips and all.. used laptop batteries.. only tweak i had to do was research the protection chip they used on the board and desolder the supporting components on the leg that controlled the cutout amp draw limit because it was set too low for anything. Just had to take a smd cap out and put in a resistor based on the chart in the chips datasheet.. charges on the same charger as the name brand ones do and works better and longer. Durable as well..
Now you'll just need a gym subscription to be able to carry that thing ;) But seriously, very nice build. I don't see the purpose for a drill, but this would be perfect for high current applications such as angle grinders.
I would argue that you won't need an expensive gym subscription if you have the perfect weight for practicing right at home 😂🙈 Anyway, glad you liked the build!
I’ve been thinking about rebuilding a basic Milwaukee battery... just back to stock number of cells, but use some high end ones, and see if it’s better than an all original one...
Hi, Nice video, congrats. I presume that the BMS/Charger will have a timer that will interrupt the charge after certain time for safety... so it would be interesting to see if you manage to fully charge from fully discharge in one shot.
Thanks! 😊 to answer your questions charging is not a problem at all, it just measures the voltage and charges until 4.2v is reached on every cell :) It charges no problem from empty to full 👍🏻 I'll make a video on all these details as soon as I find the time, I'm on a business trip at the moment which is holding me back a bit 😔
Dit is zonder twijfel een erg mooi project om van te leren en om je vaardigheden in de verf te zetten. Maar dan van de andere kant, is het niet beter om bvb 2 of 3 kleinere batterijen te hebben, waarvan je er 1 of 2 kan laden terwijl je 1 batterij aan het gebruiken bent? Dat lijkt mij alleszins het idee achter continuiteit in werken met batterij-gereedschap. Als je grote accu leeg is duurt het ook weer evenredig lang om hem weer te laden, dus toch voorkeur voor een opsplitsing van batterijcapaciteit.
Here's my next video, worked 10 months on it so I hope you'll like it! 🤞🏻
ua-cam.com/video/Vf0uD3wiPuc/v-deo.html
Good project but not useful if you drill and screw all day,it adds too much weight. Even with normal batteries,let's say an impact drive is more than 1kg...with this pack more than 2kg.
And also if it slightly increases speed to the tool it will deteriorate the bits faster and more damage to the gears.
Maybe I am wrong as I don't know much about electricity
Hi i want to make that battery.can wou send me the files for the 3d printer please
Thank you for being “over perfectionist”. It is good. There are few things that’s so perfect….being 1) Your extreme skills in 3D printing 2) Extracting a running vehicle’s power supply for spot welding 3) 33.33 RPM turn table for exhibition of your end product. An unconventional display device❗️
@@sreekumarUSA Thanks for your kind words! Luckily I have a better spotwelder now that I can plug into mains power, but the car battery definitely helped me out when I was doing this project 😆
1:50 just a quick tip, measuring cells like this with a metal caliper can lead to some interesting problems. And yes I discovered that myself
Haha, good point! 😆😆 Glad mine is plastic.. 😅
Did your calipers suddenly glow orange?
@@BradKwfc
It would seem that plastic doesn't glow... 🤪
You can see he used plastic calipers when he measured the length
@@Solipsfilm He's not saying that to you but everyone else 😜, you should pin his comment :)
Excellent design! People just don't get how much time goes into designing a 3d model like this, especially with non engineering software, and filming the process is another story..... it takes a real enthusiast. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the nice words!
It definitely wasn't as simple at it looks in the video, there were a lot of blood, sweat and tears involved before I got it the way it is now 😅 And using 3Ds max didn't help the case indeed..
I'm learning fusion 360 at the moment whenever I have some spare time, and that's also the software I'm using for the next project.
@@Solipsfilm what a lot of people (who have never 3d printed) dont realise is that buying and setting up a 3d printer, perfecting printing and slicing, knowing how to configure the printing parameters etc. is about 1% of 3d printing.
The amount of people (I would say over 99% of 3d printer owners, including owners of high end machines) who have the 'perfect' setup but their printing is limited to printing out Pokémon off thingiverse and other similar trinkets is amazing.
Actually designing things to print, popularly known as 'CAD', is the BIG stumbling block in 3d printer use, and most people who buy a printer and throw it in the garage never to be seen again after a couple of months do it because they cant use CAD. CAD for 3d printing is the same as CAD for subtractive methods (milling, drilling, lathework, etc). There are basically 'lego brick' entry level options, mostly websites but also the popular games 'Minecraft' and 'From the Depths' which have this feature, but all of them have the same problem - you are designing in blocks, so all you can print is blocky things. Above that there is fully featured CAD software such as 3dsmax, fusion360, and freecad, which pretty much requires a degree in engineering to understand. There is nothing inbetween, no 'killer apps' that allow people to progress from the lego brick tools and work thier way up to the top end CAD software.
The stringy-nes of PETG can be mostly eliminated by dehydrating the filament and keeping it dry, it's a very hygroscopic filament and when it absorbs moisture it gets stringy and the resultant prints tend to be more brittle than they should be. I print a lot of stuff in PETG and have had good success with dehydrating in a regular food dehydrator at about 70C for about 8 hours, afterwards I put the filament into my dry box (plastic box with desiccant and a hygrometer) and print from the dry box directly; I get excellent results this way with very little stringing.
16:15 A Turntable makes things turn, who would have thought :D
Great Project, i love the end result. maaaybe ill do something similar with Einhell´s "Power X-Change" battery system when i finally get a 3d Printer.
Just a safety tip. When removing your car battery, always remove the negative connection first, so that if your metal ratchet/wrench touches another metal part of the car, you aren't shorting the positive to ground.
This is the same reason you should always connect positive first when putting the battery back in.
Oh I never knew why you should do that. That makes sense, thanks
Interesting indeed, never thought about it this way! Thanks for the tip :)
@@Solipsfilm Yeah, first time I was working on something with my vehicle's battery, I learned that lesson first-hand. Now I've got a ratchet with a melted spot on the handle and a matching melted spot on my alternator mount... Turns out that a battery rated to put out almost 900 amps can do some damage to steel real fast!
Many dealership mechs failed to practice
this on Toyotas, which blew the 120amp fuse, thats not easy to remove/replace.
I used 3DSM for 20 years. I ALWAYS wanted to switch to blender, but with all my experience I couldn't ever make the jump. I used blender back around 2002 quite a bit. Well I got tired of Autodesks outrageous pricing. I switched to blender and its literally 100x better in every single way. Also within the first day I was pretty proficient, so it didn't take me as long to get comfortable with it as i thought it would. The only thing I like better in Max is the smoothing groups (which doesn't matter unless you're doing game design). Other than that blender 100% of the way. I switched to blender about 4 months ago. So far I've done 2 professional industrial designs in it. Its so much better. The measurements alone are worth it. I do still find myself using hotkeys from Max and it makes me wanna scream outloud haha. But mostly because I spent 20 years inside of an ancient software whenever I should have just stayed with blender all along.
I love maker videos, but usually when I watch a build I'm thinking... 'you could have been more careful with that part.' But not with you. You are one of the only makers so meticulous that the quality comes out nearly consumer-ready. Very impressive. Subscribed.
This really means a lot to me, thanks for the encouraging words!
@@Solipsfilm hi would you make one of these for my 18 volt angle grinder
I would like to see this done with makita batteries. They also have pretty particular battery management boards and the aftermarket boards sometimes don't work, don't charge as fast or even don't cell balance. Great video!
I have had the same issue with Aliexpress makita board. Bought twice and they never balanced the cells, so the charger just stalled mid way
@@henryairconcepts2999 Then don't buy the cheapest one you can find. There are quite a few you can buy with basically the same board as the newer OEM Makita battery's.
what i want to see is a large battery pack like this, but mounted to your belt or backpack, with a umbilical cord type thing running to the tool. would take so much weight off the tool. just like an ego chainsaw
Good idea. I can't help but think that having such a large weight on the base of a tool is not a good way to work...
@@RetiredRhetoricalWarhorse yeah, I've considered many times designing my own battery pack. 2 or 3 OEM batteries in parallel and mounting them inside a modified camel back. Hardest part would be modeling the connector for 3d printing
I think the Post Apocalyptic Inventor did that in this video ua-cam.com/video/bHeii834ujs/v-deo.html
Fcuk, me too
The thickness of the cord must be crazy, considering the amperage some powertools need
I am extremely happy with this video. All the safety is good! Nothing sketched me out. Good job, this is really good!
Thanks, glad you thought everything was done well :)
I love when you make what I call "The God Sound"
😆😆
Nice build, however triple strips on the series connection that barely take any amps and using a single strip for the parallels which take all the current is just a bit shady and will definitely lead to high temperature inside the pack as well as high losses due to heated up nickel !
Usually you reinforce the connection in the direction the current travels in this case between the series groups and not along them.
Very nice project still 👌
That's correct!
I made a follow-up video addressing this issue.
Thanks for the useful feedback and glad you liked the project 😊
I’ve been thinking about doing this lately for my jobsite radio that runs off a Milwaukee battery.
Since you used a BMS from a smaller battery pack, wouldn’t that limit your charge/discharge current to what the smaller battery pack was?
Fantastic work; absolutely the detail and functionality!!
Your commitment to excellence is most commendable.
Thank you! 😊
Like your presentation style... really easy to listen to. Looking forward to more battery management stuff. Subbed here!
Agree 100%
Amazing. Great result. Looks like from factory 😃
Thanks for the compliment! Glad you liked the final product :)
You said it: you want perfection. And you got it!
Oh thanks! 😊
Much appreciation for your work !!! That’s a Huge battery 👍🏻
Thanks bro! I am very grateful. I just bought a printer I'm still a beginner. You keep working really well just like that!
I hear 3d printer have quite a learning curve when you first start. It ain't just click and print. Alot or little numbers you need first but after you get the process it goes smooth. I believe I'm just a electrician and never really used one before but am interested.
The 3D printer is really one of my best purchases I did in years, it really brought my designing process to a whole new level.
Yes, there's definitely a learning curve, especially if you want the prints to turn out really nice but it is so rewarding once you really figure it out :)
Good luck with it! And if you attempt the project, feel free to send me a picture of the finished product ;)
Solipsfilm@gmail.com
Really nice Work Mate. The designing was well thought out in my opinion. There were a few things that I would've changed. But, the way you were talking you seen some changes that would've improved the over all Product too. Thanks for sharing your hard earned knowledge with me. It's appreciated.
Absolutely beautiful!!!! Thankyou for the upload
My pleasure! Glas you liked the video 😊
Well done man, great stuff!!
Looking forward to you next project👍👍
Great video. It's very educational and well shot too. Awesome job.
i love Parkside products and cats
You're definitely at the right address! 😆🐾
Excellent job... 😀
Thanks!
Great video man, well done and quality work! Looking forward to see where the channel goes. Subbed!
Thanks for the compliment, glad I earned your sub!
TIP for Measurements ...
Scan some graph paper or 5mm sq lines paper and print it onto clear overhead projector film
Place the clear film on the scanner bed and then the battery case on top
It's easy to measure now
Nice good work
Thanks ☺️
Great video. I would like to see 3D printed projects with battery adapter... where you can use Makita battery on Parkside (or the other way around), etc. Usually you can find very cheaply cordless drills but batteries are expensive. So if you can use one battery on multiple tools/companies that would be great.
Watching you putting so much effort in your work I be happy 2 order adapters from you -did buy some adapter b4 but wasn't the quality what I expected-and now i was looking adapter from parkside battery to dewalt and find on Internet pics and can c is not perfect fit -bit much forward then the original battery eould b like...
I wish i would have skills to do such things! Super cool!
Le has puesto tanto amor, felicidad y diversión a tu proyecto y a la edición del vídeo de esta publicación, que me contagiaste de todos esos buenos sentimientos, excelente trabajo hermano, te has ganado un subscriptor y muchos likes mas.
En lo personal no le invertiria todo ese tiempo a un proyecto así, porque ya existen productos en el mercado, pero hay muchas ideas que pudieran llevar la misma lógica y metodología de trabajo, eso es lo realmente importante, no el objetivo si no lo aprendido.
saludos
I'm really glad you enjoyed watching the video, thanks for the great compliments!
Wahnsinn! Echt Respekt vor dieser Arbeit!
Vielen Dank für den aufmunternden Post! :)
@@Solipsfilm bist doch nicht deutsch, oder? 😮
@@Solipsfilm Ach sooo du sprichst deutsch, super Sache. Dann kann ich meine Frage auch einfacher formulieren: Die 43 A sind ja durch die Sicherung des 2 A BMS Boards von Parkside limitiert. Selbst der neue 8 AH Akku geht bis 100 A. Du meintest ja das du eine andere Sicherung einbauen kannst und damit dann >200 A ziehst. Nun die Frage: Für welche Sicherung hast Du dich entschieden und lädst du dazu noch ein Video mit einem entsprechenden Test hoch? Wäre super! Ansonsten TOP Video. Werde Abonieren.
Just bought my first cordless drill yesterday and this video just popped out.
The temperature sensor is typically a 10k NTC thermistor, if you damage it or it needs to be replaced. It also does not matter which way round the thermistor is soldered to the board. When I used to work with Li-ion cells I used a large ceramic tile to protect the bench from inevitable burns! Speaking of burns remove all rings / watches etc! Metal jewellery can arc and the heat from a short circuit is almost instant! Get yourself some CA glue accelerator spray too.
Don't forget that Milwaukee, SnapOn and another use a 6.8K thermsistor....
@@davidbarker3591 I see you're a battery connoisseur! I never had any luck with Milwaukee liion, 50/50 with the snap ons. Put it down to BMS locked when they fail
great work.. need this fpr Einhell 18v Batteries :D
Thanks! I wish I could make it for many other batteries, but I only have Parkside and Bosh myself.. Plus it's so much work and I can already barely find the time to work on my next project already 🙈😅
I loved this project!
Thanks, glad you liked it!
Great project but a bit safety precaution. PETG is not a great material for cell holder - it creeps when heated (you can use PET bottles as heat shrink tubing). It means your cell holder will start squeezing the cells quite hard which is not the greatest idea (fire risk and all that stuff). Using proper materials for the job would ensure project longevity and spare you nasty surprises down the line. If I needed more temperature resistance and only had a stock Ender 3 I would chose ABS/ASA for the job. If your printer have all metal hotend and can reach higher temperatures I would stick with Glass Fiber reinforced nylon (requires hardened nozzles). It's what bodies of most power tools and batteries are made of - it's reasonably stiff and impact resistant, has a great temperature stability and should be quite printable without enclosure (haven't tried to print it yet but heard it doesn't warp as much as normal nylon which I had moderate success printing in quite cold garage ~15 *C). Don't use Carbon Fiber reinforced filaments as them might end up electrically conductive due to Carbon Fiber strands in them.
very important information!!! i hope he will pin your comment.
I really liked this thank you for making this video
Its very cool design.. would love to see it for milwaukee power tools..
I got one of those spot welders. I use a portable battery jump starter and it works great.
LIPO packs is ideal for that spotwelder..
I use 2x 4S 2800mah in parellel and it gives all the spotwelding umff I need.
all in all, been very impressed with it... its rated for 12v (3s) but I dont see any problems with 4S 16v
i flinched when you used the callipers on the cells until i realised it was plastic lol
Great Video
Your battery can definitely deliver more than 43 amps even the parkside 8ah does double of that. The only problem is if you try to pull this current the fuse in the PCB of the 2ah battery will blow
Interesting.. Makes sense that the 2ah battery fuse wouldn't be designed to handle this amount of current, thanks for the tip, I'll definitely reinforce it! :)
I did a short circuit test with the batteries, they deliver around 70A/cell, that's obviously not what they're made for but that would mean this battery could deliver 210A at it's absolute maximum 😆
2ah and 4ah batteries have the same fuse as far as i can see so to me it seems its the biggest fuse boards and contacts may handle. If it operates correctly with original fuse i would rather leave it as is
The amont of current he can pull doesn't depend on the battery, it depends on the load! If he uses it with the standard tools that are designed to be used with the standard batteries, there's no way he can pull a greater amount of current from it... This battery will last very very long without any decrease in performance. So it's ok to use with the standard PCB.
@@Solipsfilm Please give us an update! Because the 8 AH deliver 100A ! So, witch fuse have you uses to go above the 43A maximum of your design?
Gaaf! Now I need a 3D Printer :P
Aanrader, beste aankoop ooit!
Nice 👏👏👏
Thx!^^
Классный акб для шуруповерта. Можно гипсокартон к потолку прикручивать целый день
Haha, exactly 😆
Angle Grinder.... The Real Man's Dremel.... Noice!
Hahaha, indeed! 😆
بارك الله فيك متابعك من العراق
Really cool idea. 👍
However, did you check the voltages of the batteries before paralleling them? Charges in each battery should be roughly the same so that they work perfectly.
I did check that but forgot to mention it in the video.. That's indeed important :)
Tomorrow I'm putting out a little follow-up video with some updates, this one's also included 👍🏼
They should self balance when in parallel.
@@White000Crow Except that’s less safe than if you individually balanced them to the same voltage first. Also less damaging to the cells.
@@orppranator5230 You are right! but it only matters when the voltage difference is like 1 volt or more. Usually new batteries are within 0.5 volts of each other. So there is no surge current which is more than the c rating of the battery. Its more important in the series conections. What I do is. First measure all the voltages. If within 0.5 volts then i connect all of the batteries in parallell using small neodymium magnets and nickel plated strips. and leave them for like 24 hours. After that they are perfectly balanced and ready to assemble.
I recommend using an oscillating multi-tool for cutting plastic, you'll have more control than the angle grinder.
That is some amazing work. Thanx
When he said the word perfectly... perfectly 😁
Did I? 😅😆
Amazing work 👍👍
God bless perfectionists!!!
Interesting that original bms can be used. I came across your video as i was searching for a bms that i was thinking it needs changed when upgrading the parkside 12v team batteries. Their 4ah 12v battery has 6 cells of 2ah, and was thinking to just replace them for some 3ah ones, would make it a 6ah and overall better quality battery with good cells.
fantastic. prepare me 2 batteries I'll buy them for you.
I'm sorry but I dont have the time to make more at the moment.. But maybe I can help you out with the printed parts?
www.etsy.com/nl/listing/1211082739/3d-printed-15ah-parkside-battery-as-seen?ref=listings_manager_grid
@@Solipsfilm the amount of entitlement in here is ridiculous. They probably think you would sell them for $100 too!
Dude.... From The Caribbean 🇻🇨....I Say Awesome Build.
Thanks! 😊
Do this for Milwaukee M18 packs and I will personally donate you the price of their M18 battery pack :D I would love to buy an old used Milwaukee M18 2ah pack and extend it to 12ah instead of buying a new M18 12ah for freaking 250 European schillings... Their tools are amazing but the price of batteries is just ridiculous. Anyway, you have earned my sub :)
This is super cool!
@@nolanmeyer4052 Thanks, glad you liked it ☺️
Awesome video my friend. Left a sub ofc.
I'm a little dissapointed youtube suggested you so late for me, but bettter late than never I guess
Keep doing what you do. I'll be here watching it
Hi Marvin!
Thanks for the kind words, I'm glad you like my video's!
It's really a fight against the algorithm to get out there, but you probably know all about that, being a UA-camr yourself😅
I just checked your channel, really nicely done as well, good explanations and good camera work. 👌🏻
You've got a sub back!
@@Solipsfilm for sure😅. Thanks m8, wish u all the best❤️
My cat died because of you! What kind of monsters are we for it? Nooooooooooooooo! Now I only "Taut I Taw a Puddy Tat". Sylvester come back. Oh the tragedy.
I'm confused, what? 😅
Impressive beautiful work.
Congrats!
Nice video thanks. At minute 11:46 - when you remove a car battery you must disconnect the negative first, then positive. When connecting the battery connect positive first.
why?
@@_24___ While unscrewing the positive terminal you may touch metal piece of engine or body that is still connected to the negative terminal of your battery. You can even touch the negative terminal directly on battery but even disconnecting negative first won't help you there. If you short the car battery it wil weld your wrench or Allen key, glow it red hot, discharge and destroy the battery. But in the worst case scenerio the battery itself will explode due to rapid hydrogen and oxygen release.
@@tymoteuszmielcarski8649 Good points. Caution is advised and care must be taken.
3:42 While that works just fine, you should invest in a Dremel kit or "Jewelers" rotary tool if you dont have one. They make little cut off wheels for those that you can do finer work with, no need to bust out the big boy grinder.
Very Cool project!
Thanks! :)
I also got that cheap spotwelder.. and I was very impressed with it, as its ideal for my use and I can just use LIPO packs.
I use 2x 4S 2800mah in parellel.. it gives more then enough umff to spotwelderf nikkestrips up and beyound 0.2mm.
I know its rated for 12v (3s) but looking at the component and the cap.. i did not see any problem why 4S lipo (16v) should not be tolerated, and it makes a huge difference in the spotwelding potency.
That small spotwelder was exactly what I needed when i purchased it some years back from BG at around 12USD, and also checked it with my oscilioscope.. its enegy rating from 1E to 99E is 1 to 1 with ms, on my scope and you can also use a footpedal with its small barrel DC connector if you need, but its "automatic" weld-feature works great..
and I love it doesnt take any space and can simply just grapp some of my RC lipo packs when I need to spotweld.
for the price it was a steal.. but using 4S packs in parell made a big difference in spotwelding potency. versus fx 3s packs.
Great build and impressive video from such a small channel (+1).. got many Parkside tools, X20 line , and also X12, .. and sadly also a lot of the Performance BL line (the old version with 2.5A and 5A batterypacks that carried Samsung 25R cells).. and which you cant get new batteries for, as the Performance line shifted to X20 battery-hinge variant.
a tacky move from Parkside, dropping the ball on all the buyers that invested in their performance line.. IMO Parkside should at least make an adapter, so they can use X20 packs and buyers not ending up with quality brushless tools you cant get batteries for.
dang, that x20 gluegun just look dwarfed alongside that pack.
Im using 4A X20 with the same gluegun.. and its not a bad gluegun with its price in mind.. can deliver quite a bit of hot glue in a shortwhile and ideal for certain stuff.
Are you sure that 2A entry batterymanagement system are not choking that huge pack after the original 2A X20 pack current-standards.. just as when your charging it will be the slow charging speeds.
wondering if you actually gonna feel the effect of that huge pack.. like one useally do when using bigger batterypacks and not just longer runtime..
going from 2A to 4A pack big difference in torque on most of my powertools.. same on the older brushless with 2.5A vs 5A..angle grinder would way easier stall on low sized packs..
Seriously though a very good video to go with the Thinginverse print, Attention to detail is very very high. thank you... My SDS drill has broken after only a few uses, its like the brushes have disappeared...
That would be excellent for the torch they sell
Awesome , just wish I had the skills to make some of these batteries
It does indeed require some prior knowledge to do this but it's never too late to start learning the skills needed!
Personally I started getting into the whole 3D printing because I was determined to make the 18650 power bank from K r a l y n 3D, that was also way above my skillset at the time but I forced myself to do it until I succeeded :)
Anyway, glad you liked the video :)
it feels like this channel is wayyy to small to make this good videos
This really means a lot to me, thank you for the compliment! 😊
very very impressive project and video account
Thanks! ☺️
Great project, but I have one advice. You have doubled the strips for parallel cells insted of serial connections. Actualy it doesn't make sense. Most of the current flows between serial cells (short horizontal stripes) - thoes should be thick. The long stripes connected directly to PCB can be actualy very thin, throu them flows almost no current 🙂
You are correct indeed, I'll pin this comment so people know to also double up these nikkel strips :)
Yea i just bought the case and bm board on ebay for 15$… came with nickel strips and all.. used laptop batteries.. only tweak i had to do was research the protection chip they used on the board and desolder the supporting components on the leg that controlled the cutout amp draw limit because it was set too low for anything. Just had to take a smd cap out and put in a resistor based on the chart in the chips datasheet.. charges on the same charger as the name brand ones do and works better and longer. Durable as well..
No way only 1600 subs! Like and sub for you! Hope you will get big keep it up bro
Just made it to 2000 subs 🎉🎉 I'm super happy to see my brand new channel grow this fast! Thanks for the positive comment, really appreciated!
Apart from the massive overkill, the grinder, very 👍
I’d trust him doing my dental work with those angle grinders skills 😂
Now this bad boy is good for angle grinder
Now you'll just need a gym subscription to be able to carry that thing ;)
But seriously, very nice build. I don't see the purpose for a drill, but this would be perfect for high current applications such as angle grinders.
I would argue that you won't need an expensive gym subscription if you have the perfect weight for practicing right at home 😂🙈 Anyway, glad you liked the build!
Great job, thank you brother. You are so talented
I’ve been thinking about rebuilding a basic Milwaukee battery... just back to stock number of cells, but use some high end ones, and see if it’s better than an all original one...
Thank you from KSA.
That's perfect for impact wrench
Hi, Nice video, congrats.
I presume that the BMS/Charger will have a timer that will interrupt the charge after certain time for safety... so it would be interesting to see if you manage to fully charge from fully discharge in one shot.
Thanks! 😊 to answer your questions charging is not a problem at all, it just measures the voltage and charges until 4.2v is reached on every cell :) It charges no problem from empty to full 👍🏻 I'll make a video on all these details as soon as I find the time, I'm on a business trip at the moment which is holding me back a bit 😔
Sweet, nicely done! Well explained!!!
Bravo bravo bravo
Thanks!^^
1:50 duuudeee :D
btw This channel is gonna become big soon
Thanks for the positive vibe, I'll definitely do my best! 😊
I need to learn/get a 3d printer... I love shit like this. But damn thats a shit ton of work.
Subbed
I couldn't imagine a life without my printer anymore! Go for it, you won't regret it😉 Thanks for the sub!
woww just relaxing video. Thanks.
When a battery pack has a tool
😆😆
You could have pulled a very good April fool's joke, make a 100 Ahr battery that sticks a good foot out of the tool.
Hahaha, that would have been hilarious indeed 😂 Now I'm bummed that I didn't think of this myself.. 😅
Awesome job!
Thank you!
Offtopic, still have good quality Toyota too ;)
I love my old Toyota 😍
Very cool project.
Thanks!
Nice job! great work
This is a good exercise tool
Such a great project!
good video and timely, since I am looking to upgrade a dying Ingersoll Rand battery back.
Wow nice!
Awesome mate! i subbed.
Dit is zonder twijfel een erg mooi project om van te leren en om je vaardigheden in de verf te zetten. Maar dan van de andere kant, is het niet beter om bvb 2 of 3 kleinere batterijen te hebben, waarvan je er 1 of 2 kan laden terwijl je 1 batterij aan het gebruiken bent? Dat lijkt mij alleszins het idee achter continuiteit in werken met batterij-gereedschap. Als je grote accu leeg is duurt het ook weer evenredig lang om hem weer te laden, dus toch voorkeur voor een opsplitsing van batterijcapaciteit.