Thank you for including the end with the barrel going back to normal, now my stupid self can sleep at night knowing my dumb ass mistakes can eventrually be fixed thanks to steel springiness/memory
Thanks for the video. I'm building an upper and have a good amount of money invested in a Ballistic Advantage barrel. One muzzle device mounting tutorial I watched stated that a flash hider can be torqued up to 80 pounds! Others were saying between 25 and 40. The Brownell's video says to avoid over-torqueing but then says 30 is acceptable... and get this: They used a pin punch that seemed close to the right diameter to check for bore constriction instead of a bore erosion gage like you did. 15 it is. Thanks again.
Gonna have to go home and double check my flash hiders. I just cranked em down without a torque wrench and without backing off and re tightening to time them. I guess it’s a good thing I haven’t shot them yet
Heard about this but never saw it actually demonstrated. Very happy I’ve settled on Smith Vortex for most everything. Screw it on hand tight and shoot a mag and it self tightens.
I've been using the new style crush washers. I haven't been using a torque wrench when installing an A2 or a center position muzzle device. I'll get it timed to about 320 degrees then back off. The crush washer is crushed for that location so the A2 will get back close to the 320 degree position with just hand tightening and then another tighten of about 40 degrees (about an 1/8th turn) or so to get the A2 centered. After watching this video though I'm wondering if it was still a little too tight? I'll check a couple of them to see where I'm at. Great video!
should be fine. The crush washer is designed to crush and is a softer steel there by releasing the crush force .You probably know already. In this video he's using a split washer which is made of a harder metal
Great video. I have been trying to find information on whether to use a barrel vice or a reaction rod while doing this work. What did you use? There is conflicting views everywhere.
Any reaction rod is good for installing, removal is the area of debate. A reaction rod could cause a very stuck muzzle device to allow the barrel unscrewing from from extension, possibly, thus barrel vices are recommended for removal but I have never found any barrel vice blocks that would hold tight enough to prevent barrel from spinning. I use reaction rod, if barrel unscrews from ext it probably wasn't never tight enough to begin with and you probably would want to know this.
What is actually happening to cause it to constrict? I would have thought that the force would be applied back to the shoulder of the barrel, with threads engaging each other. I guess I'm just trying to make sense of what causes the barrel to constrict like that.
Google "3 Prong Flash Hider Tool Thordsen Customs" it should come right up. Works great, highly recommended. I do NOT recommend their A2 flash hider tool however. Dont be tempted to buy that one while your shopping. 3 Prong also available at Brownells, but sadly currently OOS!
Hey man, I’m going to be installing a dead air 3 prong torque spec is 35 I want to only torque it to 15-20ft lbs (I’m not using a can) , that being said I will not be using a lock washer like you use I have the accu washers from precision armament should I use aeroshell 33ms wipe it off then apply rocksett or should I only use rocksett? Some advice would be appreciated.
What would this do in the negative? I've read that a lot of guns are constricted at the muzzle for accuracy, is there a danger of it being too constricted or is the issue have to do with a loss in velocity?
Great reduction in accuracy. Funny thing, I posted this video over a year ago and just last week, SOLGW and Brownells almost exactly re created my video lol. On Brownells page.
Google PT&G gauges and find theirsite. Their website is hard to navigate, I would just call or email them and tell them you need a 5.56 Muzzle Erosion Gauge.
@@ar-15techtipsinunder5minut8 PTG-11235-004. .22 CF Muzzle Erosion Gauge. Thanks fellow. I think they are the only people that make one. This tip was great. I took a high end scoped AR long range class about a year ago. The instructor said several times that he had seen rifles that should have been shooting well (1.0 to 1.5 moa) but were shooting more like 2.0 to 2.5. They unscrewed the muzzle device, and reinstalled at a reasonable torque and the rifle settled right in. Great tip Mr. Thank you.
![How To: Install a Muzzle Device [SilencerCo ASR Flash Hider]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/oht9utQTpbs/mqdefault.jpg)
A few weeks ago, SOLGW and Brownells Caleb Savant reenacted my video above almost exactly lol. I posted my video 2 years prior.
Thank you for including the end with the barrel going back to normal, now my stupid self can sleep at night knowing my dumb ass mistakes can eventrually be fixed thanks to steel springiness/memory
This is the first time I have heard let alone seen this phenomenon, great info..
Yep. New to me also.
Thanks for the video. I'm building an upper and have a good amount of money invested in a Ballistic Advantage barrel. One muzzle device mounting tutorial I watched stated that a flash hider can be torqued up to 80 pounds! Others were saying between 25 and 40. The Brownell's video says to avoid over-torqueing but then says 30 is acceptable... and get this: They used a pin punch that seemed close to the right diameter to check for bore constriction instead of a bore erosion gage like you did.
15 it is. Thanks again.
Brownells copied my video lol, they have copied several.
I would have never thought of that. Wow, thanks lots.
I always be carefull not to overtighten them. A little less torque and after fireing the heat will keep it locked on.
Real good video!
I was warned about this. Great video, valuable info, thank you.
Gonna have to go home and double check my flash hiders. I just cranked em down without a torque wrench and without backing off and re tightening to time them. I guess it’s a good thing I haven’t shot them yet
Thanks for posting that. Like your other videos, simple, straightforward and to the point.
Heard about this but never saw it actually demonstrated. Very happy I’ve settled on Smith Vortex for most everything. Screw it on hand tight and shoot a mag and it self tightens.
Excellent video. I use Smith Vortex 4 prong. Just screw on hand tight to prevent what you showed. Only problem is they are pricey.
im fuckin shocked rechecking all my gear! Thank you.
I've been using the new style crush washers. I haven't been using a torque wrench when installing an A2 or a center position muzzle device. I'll get it timed to about 320 degrees then back off. The crush washer is crushed for that location so the A2 will get back close to the 320 degree position with just hand tightening and then another tighten of about 40 degrees (about an 1/8th turn) or so to get the A2 centered. After watching this video though I'm wondering if it was still a little too tight? I'll check a couple of them to see where I'm at. Great video!
should be fine. The crush washer is designed to crush and is a softer steel there by releasing the crush force .You probably know already. In this video he's using a split washer which is made of a harder metal
Great video. I have been trying to find information on whether to use a barrel vice or a reaction rod while doing this work. What did you use? There is conflicting views everywhere.
Any reaction rod is good for installing, removal is the area of debate. A reaction rod could cause a very stuck muzzle device to allow the barrel unscrewing from from extension, possibly, thus barrel vices are recommended for removal but I have never found any barrel vice blocks that would hold tight enough to prevent barrel from spinning. I use reaction rod, if barrel unscrews from ext it probably wasn't never tight enough to begin with and you probably would want to know this.
What is actually happening to cause it to constrict? I would have thought that the force would be applied back to the shoulder of the barrel, with threads engaging each other. I guess I'm just trying to make sense of what causes the barrel to constrict like that.
There are some videos that thoroughly explain it.
@@gunfisher4661 link? I need to see this
As the nut tightens it is pulling itself against the barrel, stretching the barrel, and when things stretch, they get thinner.
Ooh! Chronograph test?
Common sense just ain’t too common! Thank you sir!
God bless~
What about for muzzle devices for suppressors? Such as the Surefire Warcomp or Dead Air Xeno. Would you still recommend 15ft lbs?
For that application go with what the manufacturer states to use.
There are some videos on that subject
@@gunfisher4661 link?
very informative, where did you get the wrench fitting for the flash hider?
Google "3 Prong Flash Hider Tool Thordsen Customs" it should come right up. Works great, highly recommended. I do NOT recommend their A2 flash hider tool however. Dont be tempted to buy that one while your shopping. 3 Prong also available at Brownells, but sadly currently OOS!
I’ve seen videos of rifles that key hole with very low round counts. If a muzzle device was torqued to 60ft/lbs or more could it cause that?
Interesting , I try to shim the break so that only a 1/8 to 1/4 turn align the flash hider or break .
When you are on the 30 to 60 ft lbs range are you damaging the barrel?
Shooting thru a constricted barrel cant be good for it.
Which muzzle erosion gauge is that? Will the Brownells throat erosion gauge work?
Ptg
Hey man, I’m going to be installing a dead air 3 prong torque spec is 35 I want to only torque it to 15-20ft lbs (I’m not using a can) , that being said I will not be using a lock washer like you use I have the accu washers from precision armament should I use aeroshell 33ms wipe it off then apply rocksett or should I only use rocksett? Some advice would be appreciated.
If no can, I would not use Rocksett, use acu washers and 33ms, torque no higher than 20.
Would a pin and welded device have an affect on this?
What would this do in the negative? I've read that a lot of guns are constricted at the muzzle for accuracy, is there a danger of it being too constricted or is the issue have to do with a loss in velocity?
Great reduction in accuracy. Funny thing, I posted this video over a year ago and just last week, SOLGW and Brownells almost exactly re created my video lol. On Brownells page.
@@ar-15techtipsinunder5minut8 you're OG
I have never seen that type of 3 prong flash hider tool. Are they still available??
Google "Thordsen Customs 3 prong flash hider tool"
@@ar-15techtipsinunder5minut8 Thank you
Where did you get your erosion gage please?
Google PT&G gauges and find theirsite. Their website is hard to navigate, I would just call or email them and tell them you need a 5.56 Muzzle Erosion Gauge.
@@ar-15techtipsinunder5minut8 PTG-11235-004. .22 CF Muzzle Erosion Gauge. Thanks fellow. I think they are the only people that make one. This tip was great. I took a high end scoped AR long range class about a year ago. The instructor said several times that he had seen rifles that should have been shooting well (1.0 to 1.5 moa) but were shooting more like 2.0 to 2.5. They unscrewed the muzzle device, and reinstalled at a reasonable torque and the rifle settled right in. Great tip Mr. Thank you.
@@SY-zm6uh Yes, thats it.
you do this with a crush washer
In that example I was using a M16a1 lock washer.
Doesn't the crush washer take the excess crushing force away by deforming
@@thropolupolus3605 Try it and see for yourself. Not all crush washers are created equal. Its easy to go way over 30# with a crush washer.
What lock washers are you suing. I noticed different styles. Fulton, retro rifles , and sarco all different