Would love a similar video where you go through the torque wrench install of a keymo break. Extra credit if it’s on a bolt gun? Either way - thank you for this. Wish all these types of videos were this clear and well done.
Great info and I love watching Mike work. Very helpful and calming…like watching Bob Ross paint. 😉 Keep up the great work…and…make some more Sierra 5 cans. I need one. 😉👍🏻
Big shout out to you folks at Dead Air for making the newer shim kits notched! I can't tell ya how long I've spent in the past eyeballing and slightly flexing shims to figure out what thickness they were. (Might be time to buy a micrometer eh?)
Fortunately, I have the AAC tool!! I recommended a reaction rod too. It would be nice if deadair would buy a bunch of the tools and reaction rods and rent them out.. I bought the AAC 3 prong tool 15 years ago and used it twice.
I recently had to use rocksett on a thompson center. The brake would not stay on. Wasn't enough shoulder where they threaded it to get proper torque. Has worked so far. Don't think its ever coming off though.
Is there a torque spec if you are pin and welding your muzzle devise? Do you add grease to the threads if you were pin and welding and thinking of changing it later?
I want that shirt! Big Metallica fan here and I just ordered enough of your suppressors to set a record at my gun shop. 😂 When will they be in stock? The website “notify me” is not working.
What should I do if my muzzle device is stuck inside my can? I was just testing out weight comparisons on a couple different rifles so I can’t just rocksett it onto any of them without first removing it and getting it timed correctly 1st
Can you tell me a parts number and manufacturer of the vintage three prong tool you used? You mentioned “AC” as the brand is that acme or a different manufacturer?
While getting the shims right is kind of annoying, so far I've installed two Deadair and one SOLGW keymo muzzle devices and they all look good. I just got my Sandman last Saturday and they all aligned well.
How do you know when a muzzle device needs timing? How do we know when its timed correctly? And when does it require a shim Looking to suppress my mpk-k soon. Need to figure out the attachments.
Pappas, I MUST have one of those tools. What kind is it and where can I find one? All of my rifles run keymo flash hiders because all of my cans (Sandman S, K and Ti Nomad) are of course DA. 😉😉😉
AAC 3 prong tool. The three prong flash hider was originally designed by AAC for the SDN-6. You can get them on any major firearms retailer. Capital Armory has them in stock currently
I'm having issues where it comes close but not there. And no matter how tight I make the muzzle device, I can't take my sandman s off without taking the muzzle break with it
I completly crushed the washer and just put another one on top and then I went too far on the muzzle brake timing so I backed it up a little, how did I do
@@Coicker12 if you’re using it just for a brake it’s fine but if you’re using it to mount a suppressor you’re going to want to change that out for a shim kit like he has here. Crush washers don’t offer a uniform and rigid shoulder for the muzzle device and may cause misalignment especially during use
Recommended but not 100% necessary. I got one since im using an old cetme rifle as a host and don't want to risk a baffle strike on a barrel that I don't know the history of. On a quality ar or other modern rifle it MOST LIKELY will be fine. I personally just don't want to risk it after months of waiting and hundreds of dollars.
You can’t clock what you can’t get. I’ve tried since January to get the 5/8-24 flash hider & the .578-28 piston. No dice. Are you people not producing anything? I thought you were the best system.
Don't put it back on if you are running a can. You won't get a properly aligned mount. If you are just installing a regular hider/brake and not a QD mount for a suppressor you can use it just fine. getting one back on usually requires a little bit of force. careful not to damage the threads, id avoid using metal tools to force it on. some people say you can force them on by threading the muzzle device down but I never liked the idea of that.
I like his presentation style. No douche bag crap, just clear and casual.
I met him at Lethal Weapons TX and what you see here is what you get in person.
I watched this video then called Dead Air with a bunch of dumb questions and Jake took the time to answer them all. Thanks
Would love a similar video where you go through the torque wrench install of a keymo break. Extra credit if it’s on a bolt gun?
Either way - thank you for this. Wish all these types of videos were this clear and well done.
Great info and I love watching Mike work. Very helpful and calming…like watching Bob Ross paint. 😉 Keep up the great work…and…make some more Sierra 5 cans. I need one. 😉👍🏻
Thanks for making the flats on the brakes standard 3/4". Makes it easier to not fight with clearance on barrel and shims.
Big shout out to you folks at Dead Air for making the newer shim kits notched!
I can't tell ya how long I've spent in the past eyeballing and slightly flexing shims to figure out what thickness they were.
(Might be time to buy a micrometer eh?)
Genius.
Mike has premium chill.
Fortunately, I have the AAC tool!! I recommended a reaction rod too. It would be nice if deadair would buy a bunch of the tools and reaction rods and rent them out.. I bought the AAC 3 prong tool 15 years ago and used it twice.
Great job Mike! Dead Air 3 prong tool would be awesome to have. Hell I’d buy a few 😅
How do I get one of those or is that custom fab?
@@matthewpavlik295 Its an AAC three prong tool. You can get them on any major retailer but I know capital armory has them in stock right now
I recently had to use rocksett on a thompson center. The brake would not stay on. Wasn't enough shoulder where they threaded it to get proper torque. Has worked so far. Don't think its ever coming off though.
I just want that flash hider keymo tool for the job.
Me to
@@Whitetail1982 your a MVP
@@akiraman21 Glad to help out!
Hard to get
Wow, those weren't available for the longest time!
Mike could be the Bob Ross of the gun world. Mean that in a good way!
Mike, you're the Mr Rogers of the gun industry.
I like being your neighbor.
Is there a torque spec if you are pin and welding your muzzle devise? Do you add grease to the threads if you were pin and welding and thinking of changing it later?
Should we use rocksett or some other locking lube? Just torque it and call it good?
Thank you this was one question I had now I wish I would’ve taken in consideration the diameter need a new hand guard 😢
I want that shirt! Big Metallica fan here and I just ordered enough of your suppressors to set a record at my gun shop. 😂 When will they be in stock? The website “notify me” is not working.
You all need more of the metallica style shirts in stock, and you would make a fortune.
Do you think you could list all the muzzle devices in this video?
What should I do if my muzzle device is stuck inside my can? I was just testing out weight comparisons on a couple different rifles so I can’t just rocksett it onto any of them without first removing it and getting it timed correctly 1st
Can you tell me a parts number and manufacturer of the vintage three prong tool you used? You mentioned “AC” as the brand is that acme or a different manufacturer?
While getting the shims right is kind of annoying, so far I've installed two Deadair and one SOLGW keymo muzzle devices and they all look good. I just got my Sandman last Saturday and they all aligned well.
Are u on reddit?
What size wrench did you use?
So 50fp is too much can can affect accuracy. That I didn’t know. Thanks. Also I do like your products. Saving for a Sandman S.
You will not be disappointed. One of the best purchases Ive made in my shooting "career"
How do you know when a muzzle device needs timing? How do we know when its timed correctly? And when does it require a shim
Looking to suppress my mpk-k soon. Need to figure out the attachments.
you timed the shit outta them flash hiders yo
torque wrench request video
Snap-On is really nice still made in USA 🇺🇸
I'm still out here hoping for a longer Xeno device for pin and weld to a 13.9 barrel.
If Mike ever gets those hands on you, you’re gonna be done.
👍👍👍
Pappas,
I MUST have one of those tools. What kind is it and where can I find one?
All of my rifles run keymo flash hiders because all of my cans (Sandman S, K and Ti Nomad) are of course DA.
😉😉😉
AAC 3 prong tool. The three prong flash hider was originally designed by AAC for the SDN-6. You can get them on any major firearms retailer. Capital Armory has them in stock currently
@@tempviduse Picked one up about 3 months ago from Midway USA. A must have!
I'm having issues where it comes close but not there. And no matter how tight I make the muzzle device, I can't take my sandman s off without taking the muzzle break with it
Rock set or loc tite it
I completly crushed the washer and just put another one on top and then I went too far on the muzzle brake timing so I backed it up a little, how did I do
crush washer or shim? big difference
@@tempviduse crush
@@Coicker12 if you’re using it just for a brake it’s fine but if you’re using it to mount a suppressor you’re going to want to change that out for a shim kit like he has here. Crush washers don’t offer a uniform and rigid shoulder for the muzzle device and may cause misalignment especially during use
I'm curious why you don't just use a standard crush washer?
Because they can become mis alignment if they crush , to say, while suppressor is on the gun and cause baffle strikes.
alignment. If you are just installing a flash hider its fine but if you are using it for a QD mound for a suppressor it won't be concentric
Will I ever need to take it apart? Do I need any tools? My first sorry
Take apart what? the can or the muzzle device?
Damn Bob Ross of suppressors over here 🤣
🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Definitely mechanic. Setting the pinion depth hahaha LOL
Isn’t that a nice wrench…..I’m sold brutha
M13 x1.25 thread.. PLEASE.
Is an bore alignment rod needed before shooting 7.62 through a sandman s
Recommended but not 100% necessary. I got one since im using an old cetme rifle as a host and don't want to risk a baffle strike on a barrel that I don't know the history of. On a quality ar or other modern rifle it MOST LIKELY will be fine. I personally just don't want to risk it after months of waiting and hundreds of dollars.
Add rockset and forget about it.
I just stick with flash hider. To much time and energy dealing with brakes lol
So the goal is simply to get the pin hole at 6 o clock?
Sort of. the objective for the muzzle break is for it to sit flat. main has ports on the sides and the 3 secondary ports up top
You can’t clock what you can’t get. I’ve tried since January to get the 5/8-24 flash hider & the .578-28 piston. No dice. Are you people not producing anything? I thought you were the best system.
Lanbo's armory. Stop crying and take five minutes to Google for parts pog
Where have you been trying to order from?
I don't understand what timing means?
I thought you mean when shooting
I found the 3 prong flash hider tool.
Blackout Flash hider tool #64185.
Runs about $30.
He took off the crush washer? Do you put it back on? Pretty confusing there.
Don't put it back on if you are running a can. You won't get a properly aligned mount. If you are just installing a regular hider/brake and not a QD mount for a suppressor you can use it just fine. getting one back on usually requires a little bit of force. careful not to damage the threads, id avoid using metal tools to force it on. some people say you can force them on by threading the muzzle device down but I never liked the idea of that.
@@tempviduse Yep, talked to a gunsmith and he told me everything and I paid him to take it off for me. Thanks though!