Awesome video, brother. I'll be sure to let everybody know in my next video. I'm doing all of your mods to mine. The screws on the left of my bottom plate are loose and about to pop.
Great video! I had to do the same thing with mine. longer screws in the base plate drilled and tapped. also I had to drill and tap out all of the die blocks because the set screws were stripping out.
16:51 this is the reason I love this channel. Just a dude showing us his journey on getting smaller groups. Not trying super hard to be the most professional or perfect every time. Just showing us problems and solutions as they come up in a real world way. Feels very genuine and that's why I love this channel!
......Lee is very under-rated,.....MOST sheople think inexpensive is cheap,.....which MOST times is the case,....I have found in the 54 years of reloading, in the past 25 years, this is not the case w/Lee....a guy has to get lucky once in a while.....lol
I went through the same confusion with "bad runout and good group" awhile back. I had a batch of 50 308 Win I loaded and the best of the batch had .004" TIR worst at .0095". I organized them accordingly and shot some 5 shot groups and to my surprise it was still a .25"-.3" load across the board.....My concentricity gauge doesn't get used much since that.
This video again reinforces my opinion that the latest, greatest, most expensive and most exclusive reloading tools likely make very little, if any, difference. Good basic tools and good reloading practices are what count.
I was on the market to buy a co-ax press to try the floating die system and was checking the difference between the FA and the Forster by far the best video I've seen...the floating system seams to work nicely with the simple FL size die. Thank you for the video!
I've had this press for a year or so and I definitely have some advice. 1. Take the shell holder assembly apart and clean the 3 quarts of oil out of it or you will get oil on the case head/ primers 2. If you find a set screw, loctite it, even the ones on your die blocks 3. You can use two lock rings on the die body instead of the die blocks, it feels more adjustable and you can spare yourself the set screw problems on the die blocks. It would be nice to figure out how to short stroke the press because it does get a little tedious having to use a full stroke on a pistol cartridge, but otherwise this press really works well and I'm happy I bought it.
Appreciate this feedback regarding the set screw on the die body. I had issues with the set screw messing up the die threads and I quit using this press and hated even buying it, but I will try the lock rings and see how that works. Appreciate the tip.
Just in case anyone else is looking, you can short stroke this press with a trip to the hardware store. The bottom pointed pin that opens up the shell holder is a standard m10 screw, so you can buy a m10 coupler nut and a stud or bolt and extend that pin upwards. Most auto parts stores should have these parts. You will need a grinder or hacksaw to shorten the bolt or stud to whatever length you need for your pistol ammo. Edit: I just went and measured, mine set up for 9mm is 4 1/4" long. I have a lathe so instead of a coupler nut I just made a new pin that I can swap in. Thread is M10x1.5 if you were careful with a grinder you could just make a new pin out of a longer bolt without needing a lathe, although I would still recommend just extending the stock pin with a coupler nut.
Haven’t seen the whole video yet but the die guy was me and it was hornady micrometer seating dies. Had to switch to forester micrometer seating dies. Ive also had problems with the set screws in the die blocks coming loose super easy on my sizing dies leading to inconsistent shoulder bump that constantly changes through a batch of brass. I forgot to mention I’ve also had problems with mandrels destroying case mouths and caving shoulders in with this press so I still use a separate press when using mandrels for neck tension. Just finished the video and I agree with what you said. It’s a good press, but not one I recommend due to its quirks. I was a beginner when I bought it and would certainly recommend something else to other beginners.
Love the channel and have been binge-watching since finding your videos surrounding 7.5x55 Swiss in both the K11 and K31. Thought as I was losing my mind at 31:42 when I noticed the dot climbing up the bottle of AR-Comp. LOL Fantastic video as always!
This was my 1st press when I started, still have it, still use it. Mechanically it’s had zero issues. I have mostly reloaded .224 Valkyrie and .223 on it. I have upgraded to the lock-N-Load Iron because of the die clearance issue for some other calibers. As far durability, I have loaded well over 10,000 rounds and besides some Fordom grease once and awhile runs great. I must have got one built on a Wednesday.
You either like this style of press for one reason or another or you don't. There is no right or wrong about it. The sheer number of variables in reloading is so vast that a far majority of reloaders just do not scrutinize their reloads to the level that it matters. Millions of rounds are reloaded on all kinds, brands, and using different methods successfully every year. This press is no more or less spectacular than any other for the common reloader.
I like the idea of a press where the brass is stationary and the die moves, but not a fan of how this press works, I think the RCBS Summit is a better implementation and far more simple, but it costs more also. I would not buy this Frankford press, but some will love it.
I find that using the tips of a pair of needle nose pliers to push on the ends of the C clips helps take them off. The pliers spread as the clip widens up and keeps constant pressure and you hold the handles which makes it easier.
I have one and yes the die blocks suck. I have a full size die installed in the press for my 223 cases and I don't move/replace it so it works well. I have a Hornady Iron press for depriming & seating my cases. Overall I'm ok with two presses.
Gotta agree with some of the other posters here, I don't think runout is a primary factor for autoloaders. I think neck tension is the answer here, I bet you've got different neck tension from all those different dies. I'd bet the neck tension affects some internal ballistic factor like the initial burn rate curve or time to the lands, so a load you work up with one neck tension might not work as well with another and vice versa.
I already had a Co-Ax when this press came out. First thing that got me on it, was the die holders, didn't really know if liked that setup, plus needing to buy extra. Other was the cartridge selection for the jaws. Forster comes with an extension to use regular shellholders, that shortens the stroke up quite a way as well, it may also work on an FA, and it's similar to the one for RCBS match seater die, which may work too. Forster jaws can be fussy about rim thickness, encountered that on 218Bee as it has thick rims that can vary .005 in thickness, and the thicker ones will stick harder under the jaw on one side, hazards of the universal jaws. One of the high end precision reloading shops got his first shipment of FA's in not long after they came out, inpected something on them and returned them all, hasn't brought them back, that was in the first year they were out. He wouldn't say why at the time though, he was waiting to see what FA did with them. I still use my Rockchucker for pulling bullets, only because of the type of handle on an RCBS puller. Trying out a MEC Marksman as well now, seems good so far, the floating shellholder and spent primer handling are what made me try it out, the shelllholder feature was what won out over a Rebel. FWIW.
Very good review as usual. Glad I never picked one up for a test. I wonder if the concentricity issue is partly because of so much slop in the base. My forster is rock solid through the stroke with the die floating. In addition the real COAX uses machines surfaces against the lock rings where it looks like FA has it floating inside powder coating. Personally I think that you have all the info you need but if you wanted to ship me some cases to seat I could run them on the AMP press. I have been doing some work in 223 that I haven't published yet, so I have all the crap.
Thanks, man. I will keep that AMP press offer in mind. Like you said, I don't think right now is the time, but maybe soon. I spent like 3 hours the other day catching up on your videos, finally. lol I can't wait to see if that Pressure Trace leads to some cool insights.
at one point, I had an RCBS rock chucker press, which if memory serves me right was a cam over. I pretty much gave up reloading for 4 or 5 years, and like an idiot, I sold it. i started reloading again after a couple more years, and I bought a Lee challenger press, and in the course of 4 years, I wore it out. the bore in the aluminum wore so badly, that the cases would hit the dies cocked, and wuld dent or rip the case mouths. I ended up buying a Lee classic cast press, because it sends the primers and debris down thru the middle of the ram, so the ram / bore stay squeaky clean. which the hole going out thru the side of the ram, sends all that cra9 right between the bore and ram. in a cast iron press, it may not mater a lot. but in the challenger press, with its aluminum body, it matters a great deal. anyway, i really prefer the dead stop over the cam over. the cam over is going to induce very high pressure into moving parts. whereas with a dead stop, yes, there ends up with the same high pressure, but there is no movement, so there should be much less wear on moving parts.
I came so close to buying this but opted instead for a Redding. I was pretty much solely going off the info from Ultimate Reloader, so this video is invaluable to buyers trying to compare! In the end, UR showed the Forster required less force to press and had better concentricity than the FA model. The Forster is just so expensive! My decision also included the fatal flaw you mentioned.
On those C-clips, just change them out to a automotive style that has tangs with eyelets on them so you can use C-clip pliers to change them out real fast. If you can find regular auto or industrial C-clips that are flat style not round and if you want to get industrialist find some real thin shim washer’s and shim the C-clip an pin to the mechanism to remove as much sloop as possible.
Hey Johnny if you do decide to bed your barrel you may as well lap the face of the upper as well. I did that to my MK12 inspired build and it shot .69” with Federal Gold Medal Match 69gr. I have a 18” White Oak SPR 1/8 twist barrel. I used the wheeler engineering lapping tool and loctite 620 to bed the barrel. It’s be a cool test to see any accuracy differences. Take your best shooting load and do like 5 5 shot groups before and after just to get an average group size.
Expander mandrels from 21st century or Sinclair or those companies has really helped and are super consistent with lowest runout possible when measuring brass before seating. After seating the run out becomes a seating variable.
I don't buy that. If my seating is consistent, then what's to account for the measured difference? I get where you're coming from and I agree that it would be MUCH better to measure the brass before seating. Honestly, I want to move on and stop worrying about this before I talk myself into buying a gauge that won't get much use. I think we've got enough results on paper to know that it just doesn't seem to matter.
@@JohnnysReloadingBench well yeah not only that, but no matter how perfect i can get everything, there are some random ones out of every 5 or 6, that will go 3-6 thousands runout or more , and then bullets themselves have run out because when I test rounds with Berger bullets I barely get any run out, and I'm using the Same exact set up . On paper I can't even tell the difference, so it is time squandered, however when I use the mighty armory dies, I get better run out because they use a mandrel type I'm their dies instead of expander button. So you get a FL sizing, then I ran it up the MA mandrel once more for neck tension. So they are awesome in the fact it does 2 in 1.
Johnny, It's possible that your hard working brass, like at 45:00, stretched the wall just above the web upon withdrawal from the die and cancelled out the .003" shoulder bump back. They sure had some scuffing easily seen on camera. The second pass did not have the tight wall in the web area. Therefore it did not stretch upon exiting the die and did not affect the shoulder specs.
Yeah, Johnny, I am not sure what happened in the sizing steps. I have had luck with the Lee FL sizing die on most rifle cartridge types. It's ironic that it is the cheapest die of FL sizing dies and produces good loads a lot of the time. I have always liked that expander stem geometry. It is shaped in a way where it guides the cartridge mouth to the centrality it needs to get a nice even expansion on my press. I use it along with my FA Universal seating kit to crank out my 22PPC and Creedmoor loads and it produces consistent ammo. Those two rifles like the loads I make with them and they are surprisingly consistent bullet runout and cartridge lengths. Great video...
For C-clips in that setup, you can use a car window knob remover if you have one. It's what I pull off my mower c-clips with no leverage (similar to that design) with.
I have had the M-Press for a little while (my first press actually). The screws holding down the black plate over the shell holder are too short. I had one press strip out and the plate bent while resizing. On the replacement press I swapped them with 3/8” #6-32 stainless screws. Haven’t loaded much because of back problems but haven’t had a problem since.
I've been shooting non cannalure 75gr Hornady's for 2 years now. They are great bullets but always throw one shot 1/2" out of the rest of a 1/2" group@100yds.. I have 18" 1 in 8 twist ELD match barrel socom profile. I wrapped barrel extension with aluminum foil and heated upper receiver to sweat it in. 10 round bursts it will go right back within 1/2" of previous groups. Heat seems to change point of impact minimally. Thanks for the press review!
Glorious! I feel your frustration at 69:04 with the amazing group showing up out of nowhere, seemingly against all odds. Especially with the follow-up group that had the flier. These happy little accidents, though, are what keep me reloading with a vengeance. I can tell you that the RCBS Summit Press, in its basic construction and form, is basically upside down of the Co-Ax/Faux-Ax. The brass is held in place by a standard shellholder and doesn't move, and operating the press arm brings the "upper carriage" - which holds the die - up and down. It has some float, but no where near the amount that the those die blocks do. I didn't notice any appreciable difference in run-out, or on paper.
Good video Johnny. I don’t have any answers about the outcome of the groups. What I will say though is that I’ve been reloading rifle rounds 43 years, cast bullet pistol rounds for 34 and cast bullet rifle rounds for 1 year. I think I’ve learned more about reloading in the 1 year of cast rifle rounds than I have the other 42! It’s cheap cheap to do so I’m shooting A LOT more and able to test different powders without breaking the bank. Did I mention it’s cheap? Having a ball casting bullets and powder coating them and then finding what powder works. It’s like getting a brand new rifle when you start shooting cast bullets in them.
I use redding dies when my 7mag along and 6.5 creedmoor along with my forster axes reloading press, I do this because my focus is on quality not quantity at least that on my brain. Other wise I use my dillon 550b for everything else.
As a new guy to reloading, I bought this press due to a $150 price tag. I bought the forster ultimate set and took a die grinder to the top ledge. Put some cold blue on the raw metal and you cant even tell its been modified.
I bought one of these M Presses and had problems with it and several of my dies. That gantry area where the die block is inserted is too fat to use with some of my favorite dies. You were almost running out of threads when you were doing that shoulder bump. I was too, especially on shorter case lengths. I traded it in for an RCBS Rebel and it is trouble-free. It keeps everything simple and I'm usually better off sticking to the basics. FA is hit and miss for me. My favorite FA products are the Universal Seating Die and that Hand Priming Tool. Those are fantastic!!!
I use my M-Press strictly for bullet seating. Works great with Redding Micrometer seating dies, the FA Universal die, and anything else except the long Hornady dies with the Micrometer.
Wish you luck with this press! I have this and a turret from RCBS and I find this one to be a bit too much PITA to deal with for large-batch stuff. My problems specifically arise from the die blocks. That brass retainer screw is going to end up marring up on your dies and it will be a pain to keep them where you set them. I use a bit of teflon tape to keep them inside the dies now. Definitely a weak point and on many occasions I've noticed my die creeps out from where I adjust it without the tape. The screws on the base plate will also loosen over time. Make sure they stay tight. I also broke two universal decapping dies on some 6.5 grendel, as the alignment was just not quite right. YMMV - I didn't have this issue with dedicated dies. I do wish the die blocks had a cutout for universal seating dies and seating dies with holes to insert bullets. I have frankford arsenal universal die that simply won't work with this press when loading 224 valkyrie, and my RCBS matchmaster is set just barely to where I can get my 224 valkyrie seated properly, and the hole is just barely big enough to stick a bullet. Makes me wish it was a tad thinner. With that said this has become my go-to small batch press and my gas 224 valkyrie shoots everything I load more accurately than the bolt guns we bring out.
I tend to keep my die block screw all the way in to keep the die block from moving a lot, I've been using this press for over a year and love it, once you find what works for you and your loads you don't have to change a lot especially if you buy the extra die blocks they sale
Fact on over-cam, it's mostly in one's mind. Once a press is bottomed out if it is strong enough it isn't going any further. Something is flexing when you over cam. Setting up some dies like collet dies is easier with a hard set. I retired my Lyman over cam press because it was harder to set up for crimping and neck sizing with collet dies and did no better at any function. I now just use my Dillon 550C and my new Lyman Turret Press that replaced my over cam older Lyman with.
Hey i was watching one of your videos and you where loading hunting ammunition and you said you hunt north east Kentucky. I’m from Morgan county (West Liberty). I enjoy your videos and would enjoy coming visiting your shop.
The main issue I had with my M-press was the die blocks. The brass set screw would get chewed up and loosen itself off, especially when sizing larger cases. I would constantly have to re-adjust my die and tighten the screw. My solution was to have my friend that runs a machine shop cut my die blocks to 0.55" thickness so I could fit a Forster lock-ring right on top of it. Haven't had to worry about it since
I think the draw mandrel gives a more consistent neck tension and it pulls the entire case inline with the base. Kinda like pulling kinks out of water hose. While the pressed in neck sizer pushes the case in. Just my guess.
I wanted to thank you for this video! I thought for years I wanted to upgrade to co-ax press. after the 1st 15 minutes I already had my doubts. With how I’m invested in my Lyman T-mag press I think I’m good.
Excellent data points created. It appears from your data that the variance is related to seating, neck tension and/or how far you've set the necks to your rifle's liking
as far as shell holder and case alignment to die you have to allow the shell holder to come tight and center case prior to running up into die. Proper rhythm as you come up not a stop and go.
Thanks for my first close look at a coaxial type press. I liked the overall philosophy behind this style, but the devil is in the detail and the implementation. My biggest take away is that, if I were to buy another press, I would certainly consider a coaxial style press as long as the cost kept it in the competition. Otherwise, for my uses, a classic style press is plenty accurate for me.
Long videos are the best. Something about your presentation makes me feel like I am there just hanging out. The fact that you dive down rabbit holes and ask the questions is fantastic. Appreciate the videos and please dive into the weeds with more powder/bullet comparisons for more calibers. UA-cam is amazingly lacking on good deep dives like yours on calibers like x54R and x39. Another one I would love to see would be a dive into 30-30. For some reason it seems most people just pick a load that gets them near a factory offering and that's it. Your content is more "I know what federal says it can do, but can we or the caliber do better?"
Hey, loved your video on the the Frankford Arsenal M-Press I recently purchased one too. When I saw you trying the FA Universal seating die, I was hoping you would do the concentricity test with it also ! I purchased a hornady microjust micrometer That didn’t fit. Total bummer.
Eric Cortina loves to claim things - to the verge of being polemic. He is not a guy for nuances. Doesn't mean that he isn't quintessentially right, though.
Johny by far has produced more load data than anyone. And those F class shooters. Aren't shooting real guns. If it's over 11lb let alone 22lb there not guns. Jonny is a real load scientist.
I bed the barrels and lap the receivers on all my AR's... Bedding wouldn't be the best idea if you swap barrels around because it takes a little bit with some emery cloth or SOS pads to clean up the barrel extension and receiver but I can't think of a single reason not to do it. I'm looking for a new press now because the single stage I have has so much slop in it that it's driving me freaking crazy. I only use it for sizing and load development but then I transfer everything over to my Dillon 550C and just crank out ammo.
I think the runout problem comes from the way you resize the cases. Should be a full length bushing type die with a bushing just sizing under the target you want for neck tension and than you can use the mandrel you want for set the neck tension. I think your full length die sizes the neck down to small and the mandrel have to work too much cousing runout. I am in a same situation with my 308 .The chamber is on the max saami side and the die just have to work my lapua brass to hard. If I size the cases twice than I get better runout numbers but that is extra work on the brass. The best option would be a custom die and resizing the neck in 2 smaller steps. Unfrotunatelly I am in Europe and here we don't have the option for custom dies. Great video. Thank you.
The Frankford press is essentially a "lower cost" version of the Forester. I noticed a lot of "float" slop between the ram guides and pins. It's appears as if both the top and ram float, this cannot be beneficial to consistency and repeatability. I'd like to take each apart and study not only the differences and how they impact the process but also the fit of each mating component in terms of size and alignment. A good comparison on a single stage press would be not using the die lock ring at all and open the frame ram hole up .030 or so to allow the ram to float instead of guide. This would closely duplicate the slop seen on the Frankford press.
I have to know about the Redding die. Would you remove the expander mandrel and then cycle the brass without it. If the cartridge still catches on entry then the problem is the neck bushing. The more tapered side of the bushing should be down to help funnel the brass neck into the bushing. If entry is smooth without the mandrel then the hang up is the decaping pin. Simply break it off, because you already universal decap, and don't need it.
My local Cabela's has a master reloader class and I talk to the guy all the time. I asked about this camover vs hardstoo he said hardstop is more consistent and that even the little breech lock can exert 18000 lbs onto the brass and that can over was not needed for shoulder bump. However I've always wondered the same thing because I feel like it's inconsistent. And possibly due to user error. Great question! Let's test it!
Johnny, take the carbide ball off and flip it over and see if that helps. The ball on my 6mm-284 worked better one way over the other. And for bullet seating I prefer dead stop on a press, cam over for sizing.
I have the Forster Co-Ax and love it. Would love to see you load some on one of those. Only press I've ever used, but it is supposed to be the best of the best for single stage presses...
Also on the co-ax I have purchased aftermarket linkages that are C shaped to give better side clearance to get your hands in there, a shorter handle, and a travel limiter that basically fixes the problem you mentioned of having to use the full stroke of the press to open the jaws to remove the piece of brass.
I borrowed an M-Press from my local gun store and played with it for a week. Gave it back to them and bought a Forster Coax. No doubt about it, the Coax is miles better. If you save money buying a POS, did you really save money? I believe the difference between a cam-over and a hard stop press has to do with the amount of time the brass spends at it's maximum deflection point. On a cam-over press the brass flashes through that point then relaxes as the press handle is at it's max. On a hard stop press you can hold the brass at it's max deflection for a short time. I use around 7 seconds at max when I size brass. I believe it affects the spring back and produces more consistent shoulder lengths. FWIW, look at the loading benches of any of the top shooters who have a YT channel. I've seen lots of Coax presses, but never an M-Press. Draw your own conclusions.
Perhaps the Redding expanders are worn or too much play/ movement, since both Lee and the mandrels are fixed, but honestly, give In-Line a call for a second mounting plate and a few plates for the trimmer and Hornady concentric tester?, or just press/ camera options? excuse to run a press and vice?
Isn‘t the K&M mandrel supposed to be floating in that holder? Mine all came with a counter screw that goes into the tip of the mandrel and allows you to leave that mandrel dangling a little so it can „self-align“ a little. Maybe worth a try since the runout numbers for the K&M look underwhelming
I personally quit measuring runout don’t worry about my rifles shoot in the threes I found .004 runout shots as good or better than .002 of runout works for me
Hi Jonny
I have a UA-cam Video on this press an the problems with it and how to fix it.
ua-cam.com/video/-hI3QmcND2I/v-deo.html
Awesome video, brother. I'll be sure to let everybody know in my next video. I'm doing all of your mods to mine. The screws on the left of my bottom plate are loose and about to pop.
Great video! I had to do the same thing with mine. longer screws in the base plate drilled and tapped. also I had to drill and tap out all of the die blocks because the set screws were stripping out.
“I don’t have that tool but I’ve got screw drivers and bandaids”. Another gem from Johnny 😂
16:51 this is the reason I love this channel. Just a dude showing us his journey on getting smaller groups. Not trying super hard to be the most professional or perfect every time. Just showing us problems and solutions as they come up in a real world way. Feels very genuine and that's why I love this channel!
This channel is an absolute gem to the community. Keep it up Johnny. I look forward to these every week. For many reasons. Thank you.
I agree!
Since 90% of my dies are Lee , I'm happy they're kicking butt .
......Lee is very under-rated,.....MOST sheople think inexpensive is cheap,.....which MOST times is the case,....I have found in the 54 years of reloading, in the past 25 years, this is not the case w/Lee....a guy has to get lucky once in a while.....lol
Lee makes good products at economical prices half my dies are lee the others are rcbs
@@ericrumpel3105 The Lee 458 Socom sizing die sucks, scrapping the crap out of my brass. But I definitely like their 223 dies.
how does this press handle neck Collet dies? I wonder about pressure on the universal plate
I went through the same confusion with "bad runout and good group" awhile back. I had a batch of 50 308 Win I loaded and the best of the batch had .004" TIR worst at .0095". I organized them accordingly and shot some 5 shot groups and to my surprise it was still a .25"-.3" load across the board.....My concentricity gauge doesn't get used much since that.
This video again reinforces my opinion that the latest, greatest, most expensive and most exclusive reloading tools likely make very little, if any, difference. Good basic tools and good reloading practices are what count.
At the end of the day it's a matter of consistency and making sure each step is repeated and such.
A little editing, and your comment becomes philosophy. I like it.
Its Frankford Arsenal engineering.
Tell me I'm not the only one that burst out laughing at "what planet am I on?!"
I like when he gave up hope on the last group. “Here goes to probably what’s going to be our best group”
Man your attention to detail is friggin outstanding
I forgot to mention oh, I totally enjoy your videos!!!
I was on the market to buy a co-ax press to try the floating die system and was checking the difference between the FA and the Forster by far the best video I've seen...the floating system seams to work nicely with the simple FL size die.
Thank you for the video!
I've had this press for a year or so and I definitely have some advice. 1. Take the shell holder assembly apart and clean the 3 quarts of oil out of it or you will get oil on the case head/ primers 2. If you find a set screw, loctite it, even the ones on your die blocks 3. You can use two lock rings on the die body instead of the die blocks, it feels more adjustable and you can spare yourself the set screw problems on the die blocks. It would be nice to figure out how to short stroke the press because it does get a little tedious having to use a full stroke on a pistol cartridge, but otherwise this press really works well and I'm happy I bought it.
Appreciate this feedback regarding the set screw on the die body. I had issues with the set screw messing up the die threads and I quit using this press and hated even buying it, but I will try the lock rings and see how that works. Appreciate the tip.
Just in case anyone else is looking, you can short stroke this press with a trip to the hardware store. The bottom pointed pin that opens up the shell holder is a standard m10 screw, so you can buy a m10 coupler nut and a stud or bolt and extend that pin upwards. Most auto parts stores should have these parts. You will need a grinder or hacksaw to shorten the bolt or stud to whatever length you need for your pistol ammo.
Edit: I just went and measured, mine set up for 9mm is 4 1/4" long. I have a lathe so instead of a coupler nut I just made a new pin that I can swap in. Thread is M10x1.5
if you were careful with a grinder you could just make a new pin out of a longer bolt without needing a lathe, although I would still recommend just extending the stock pin with a coupler nut.
Haven’t seen the whole video yet but the die guy was me and it was hornady micrometer seating dies. Had to switch to forester micrometer seating dies. Ive also had problems with the set screws in the die blocks coming loose super easy on my sizing dies leading to inconsistent shoulder bump that constantly changes through a batch of brass. I forgot to mention I’ve also had problems with mandrels destroying case mouths and caving shoulders in with this press so I still use a separate press when using mandrels for neck tension. Just finished the video and I agree with what you said. It’s a good press, but not one I recommend due to its quirks. I was a beginner when I bought it and would certainly recommend something else to other beginners.
Props on the commitment to put out a video every week! Lord knows your viewers have a huge appreciation for this.
Love the channel and have been binge-watching since finding your videos surrounding 7.5x55 Swiss in both the K11 and K31. Thought as I was losing my mind at 31:42 when I noticed the dot climbing up the bottle of AR-Comp. LOL Fantastic video as always!
This was my 1st press when I started, still have it, still use it. Mechanically it’s had zero issues. I have mostly reloaded .224 Valkyrie and .223 on it. I have upgraded to the lock-N-Load Iron because of the die clearance issue for some other calibers. As far durability, I have loaded well over 10,000 rounds and besides some Fordom grease once and awhile runs great. I must have got one built on a Wednesday.
You either like this style of press for one reason or another or you don't. There is no right or wrong about it. The sheer number of variables in reloading is so vast that a far majority of reloaders just do not scrutinize their reloads to the level that it matters. Millions of rounds are reloaded on all kinds, brands, and using different methods successfully every year. This press is no more or less spectacular than any other for the common reloader.
I like the idea of a press where the brass is stationary and the die moves, but not a fan of how this press works, I think the RCBS Summit is a better implementation and far more simple, but it costs more also. I would not buy this Frankford press, but some will love it.
This press is more similar to the forester than the rcbs summit. It moves the brass not the die.
I am in the market for a single stage press and after this I will probably stick with RCBS .. Thanks for posting
Thank you for your honesty. I'm looking for a new press, but I haven't found the one that's works for me.
I find that using the tips of a pair of needle nose pliers to push on the ends of the C clips helps take them off. The pliers spread as the clip widens up and keeps constant pressure and you hold the handles which makes it easier.
I have one and yes the die blocks suck.
I have a full size die installed in the press for my 223 cases and I don't move/replace it so it works well.
I have a Hornady Iron press for depriming & seating my cases.
Overall I'm ok with two presses.
Gotta agree with some of the other posters here, I don't think runout is a primary factor for autoloaders. I think neck tension is the answer here, I bet you've got different neck tension from all those different dies. I'd bet the neck tension affects some internal ballistic factor like the initial burn rate curve or time to the lands, so a load you work up with one neck tension might not work as well with another and vice versa.
Jonny makes some of the best reloading videos
I already had a Co-Ax when this press came out. First thing that got me on it, was the die holders, didn't really know if liked that setup, plus needing to buy extra. Other was the cartridge selection for the jaws. Forster comes with an extension to use regular shellholders, that shortens the stroke up quite a way as well, it may also work on an FA, and it's similar to the one for RCBS match seater die, which may work too. Forster jaws can be fussy about rim thickness, encountered that on 218Bee as it has thick rims that can vary .005 in thickness, and the thicker ones will stick harder under the jaw on one side, hazards of the universal jaws.
One of the high end precision reloading shops got his first shipment of FA's in not long after they came out, inpected something on them and returned them all, hasn't brought them back, that was in the first year they were out. He wouldn't say why at the time though, he was waiting to see what FA did with them. I still use my Rockchucker for pulling bullets, only because of the type of handle on an RCBS puller. Trying out a MEC Marksman as well now, seems good so far, the floating shellholder and spent primer handling are what made me try it out, the shelllholder feature was what won out over a Rebel. FWIW.
Very good review as usual. Glad I never picked one up for a test. I wonder if the concentricity issue is partly because of so much slop in the base. My forster is rock solid through the stroke with the die floating. In addition the real COAX uses machines surfaces against the lock rings where it looks like FA has it floating inside powder coating. Personally I think that you have all the info you need but if you wanted to ship me some cases to seat I could run them on the AMP press. I have been doing some work in 223 that I haven't published yet, so I have all the crap.
Thanks, man. I will keep that AMP press offer in mind. Like you said, I don't think right now is the time, but maybe soon.
I spent like 3 hours the other day catching up on your videos, finally. lol I can't wait to see if that Pressure Trace leads to some cool insights.
at one point, I had an RCBS rock chucker press, which if memory serves me right was a cam over. I pretty much gave up reloading for 4 or 5 years, and like an idiot, I sold it. i started reloading again after a couple more years, and I bought a Lee challenger press, and in the course of 4 years, I wore it out. the bore in the aluminum wore so badly, that the cases would hit the dies cocked, and wuld dent or rip the case mouths. I ended up buying a Lee classic cast press, because it sends the primers and debris down thru the middle of the ram, so the ram / bore stay squeaky clean. which the hole going out thru the side of the ram, sends all that cra9 right between the bore and ram. in a cast iron press, it may not mater a lot. but in the challenger press, with its aluminum body, it matters a great deal. anyway, i really prefer the dead stop over the cam over. the cam over is going to induce very high pressure into moving parts. whereas with a dead stop, yes, there ends up with the same high pressure, but there is no movement, so there should be much less wear on moving parts.
I came so close to buying this but opted instead for a Redding. I was pretty much solely going off the info from Ultimate Reloader, so this video is invaluable to buyers trying to compare! In the end, UR showed the Forster required less force to press and had better concentricity than the FA model. The Forster is just so expensive! My decision also included the fatal flaw you mentioned.
@50:45 custom seating stem with jbweld?🤨 is there a video of that?
On those C-clips, just change them out to a automotive style that has tangs with eyelets on them so you can use C-clip pliers to change them out real fast. If you can find regular auto or industrial C-clips that are flat style not round and if you want to get industrialist find some real thin shim washer’s and shim the C-clip an pin to the mechanism to remove as much sloop as possible.
Johny has just been killin it with these video's lately!!!!
I have 3 presses 2 are hornady 007 and the 3rd is the Frankford arsenal m press and i love the m press the most
Hey Johnny if you do decide to bed your barrel you may as well lap the face of the upper as well. I did that to my MK12 inspired build and it shot .69” with Federal Gold Medal Match 69gr. I have a 18” White Oak SPR 1/8 twist barrel. I used the wheeler engineering lapping tool and loctite 620 to bed the barrel. It’s be a cool test to see any accuracy differences. Take your best shooting load and do like 5 5 shot groups before and after just to get an average group size.
Expander mandrels from 21st century or Sinclair or those companies has really helped and are super consistent with lowest runout possible when measuring brass before seating. After seating the run out becomes a seating variable.
I don't buy that. If my seating is consistent, then what's to account for the measured difference?
I get where you're coming from and I agree that it would be MUCH better to measure the brass before seating. Honestly, I want to move on and stop worrying about this before I talk myself into buying a gauge that won't get much use. I think we've got enough results on paper to know that it just doesn't seem to matter.
@@JohnnysReloadingBench well yeah not only that, but no matter how perfect i can get everything, there are some random ones out of every 5 or 6, that will go 3-6 thousands runout or more , and then bullets themselves have run out because when I test rounds with Berger bullets I barely get any run out, and I'm using the Same exact set up . On paper I can't even tell the difference, so it is time squandered, however when I use the mighty armory dies, I get better run out because they use a mandrel type I'm their dies instead of expander button. So you get a FL sizing, then I ran it up the MA mandrel once more for neck tension. So they are awesome in the fact it does 2 in 1.
@@JohnnysReloadingBench the mandrels are for neck tension, and I saw a considerable difference in SD.
Use a regular shell holder and put it on the large setting and put it in just like you would a case. Only way to get it to bump the shoulder
Nice!
Johnny, It's possible that your hard working brass, like at 45:00, stretched the wall just above the web upon withdrawal from the die and cancelled out the .003" shoulder bump back. They sure had some scuffing easily seen on camera. The second pass did not have the tight wall in the web area. Therefore it did not stretch upon exiting the die and did not affect the shoulder specs.
Yeah, Johnny, I am not sure what happened in the sizing steps. I have had luck with the Lee FL sizing die on most rifle cartridge types. It's ironic that it is the cheapest die of FL sizing dies and produces good loads a lot of the time. I have always liked that expander stem geometry. It is shaped in a way where it guides the cartridge mouth to the centrality it needs to get a nice even expansion on my press. I use it along with my FA Universal seating kit to crank out my 22PPC and Creedmoor loads and it produces consistent ammo. Those two rifles like the loads I make with them and they are surprisingly consistent bullet runout and cartridge lengths. Great video...
For C-clips in that setup, you can use a car window knob remover if you have one. It's what I pull off my mower c-clips with no leverage (similar to that design) with.
I have had the M-Press for a little while (my first press actually). The screws holding down the black plate over the shell holder are too short. I had one press strip out and the plate bent while resizing. On the replacement press I swapped them with 3/8” #6-32 stainless screws. Haven’t loaded much because of back problems but haven’t had a problem since.
I've been shooting non cannalure 75gr Hornady's for 2 years now. They are great bullets but always throw one shot 1/2" out of the rest of a 1/2" group@100yds.. I have 18" 1 in 8 twist ELD match barrel socom profile. I wrapped barrel extension with aluminum foil and heated upper receiver to sweat it in. 10 round bursts it will go right back within 1/2" of previous groups. Heat seems to change point of impact minimally. Thanks for the press review!
Thank god, Johnny just saved me from watching whistling diesel
Fab rats posted the golden nugget
Glorious!
I feel your frustration at 69:04 with the amazing group showing up out of nowhere, seemingly against all odds. Especially with the follow-up group that had the flier. These happy little accidents, though, are what keep me reloading with a vengeance.
I can tell you that the RCBS Summit Press, in its basic construction and form, is basically upside down of the Co-Ax/Faux-Ax. The brass is held in place by a standard shellholder and doesn't move, and operating the press arm brings the "upper carriage" - which holds the die - up and down. It has some float, but no where near the amount that the those die blocks do. I didn't notice any appreciable difference in run-out, or on paper.
Good video Johnny. I don’t have any answers about the outcome of the groups. What I will say though is that I’ve been reloading rifle rounds 43 years, cast bullet pistol rounds for 34 and cast bullet rifle rounds for 1 year. I think I’ve learned more about reloading in the 1 year of cast rifle rounds than I have the other 42! It’s cheap cheap to do so I’m shooting A LOT more and able to test different powders without breaking the bank. Did I mention it’s cheap? Having a ball casting bullets and powder coating them and then finding what powder works. It’s like getting a brand new rifle when you start shooting cast bullets in them.
I was seating the same bullet over the weekend. I use the Frankford arsenal universal seating die, and it doesn’t leave any marks on the bullet
Frankford, with a d, not a t
@@randyemenhiser2573 auto correct. My b
Take care of the cat first brother. We will all still be here. Your little buddy needs you man👍
I hope you have luck with this press, they replaced mine twice the bottom plate screws are about one turn in and pull out, I gave the 3rd one away
Yeah the way I see it the more moving parts the more potential for a failure
It will fail for sure
Thank you Johnny !!
I use redding dies when my 7mag along and 6.5 creedmoor along with my forster axes reloading press, I do this because my focus is on quality not quantity at least that on my brain. Other wise I use my dillon 550b for everything else.
I had the same problem on two of my Redding dies for 243 and 6.5cm. Alignment issues so I only use the press to seat freedom seeds
As a new guy to reloading, I bought this press due to a $150 price tag. I bought the forster ultimate set and took a die grinder to the top ledge. Put some cold blue on the raw metal and you cant even tell its been modified.
I bought one of these M Presses and had problems with it and several of my dies. That gantry area where the die block is inserted is too fat to use with some of my favorite dies. You were almost running out of threads when you were doing that shoulder bump. I was too, especially on shorter case lengths. I traded it in for an RCBS Rebel and it is trouble-free. It keeps everything simple and I'm usually better off sticking to the basics. FA is hit and miss for me. My favorite FA products are the Universal Seating Die and that Hand Priming Tool. Those are fantastic!!!
I like Moly-grease on press rams. Fairly light coat. Have plenty from my spring airgun days.
I use my M-Press strictly for bullet seating. Works great with Redding Micrometer seating dies, the FA Universal die, and anything else except the long Hornady dies with the Micrometer.
Enjoyed your ramblings on the Mpress, I was looking to get the hornady precision seating die but I guess that’s out.
Looks all to be in the standard dispersion to me...
Enjoyed the video regardless. Thanks for sharing.
Wish you luck with this press! I have this and a turret from RCBS and I find this one to be a bit too much PITA to deal with for large-batch stuff.
My problems specifically arise from the die blocks. That brass retainer screw is going to end up marring up on your dies and it will be a pain to keep them where you set them. I use a bit of teflon tape to keep them inside the dies now. Definitely a weak point and on many occasions I've noticed my die creeps out from where I adjust it without the tape.
The screws on the base plate will also loosen over time. Make sure they stay tight.
I also broke two universal decapping dies on some 6.5 grendel, as the alignment was just not quite right. YMMV - I didn't have this issue with dedicated dies.
I do wish the die blocks had a cutout for universal seating dies and seating dies with holes to insert bullets. I have frankford arsenal universal die that simply won't work with this press when loading 224 valkyrie, and my RCBS matchmaster is set just barely to where I can get my 224 valkyrie seated properly, and the hole is just barely big enough to stick a bullet. Makes me wish it was a tad thinner.
With that said this has become my go-to small batch press and my gas 224 valkyrie shoots everything I load more accurately than the bolt guns we bring out.
Excellent demo. I am wanting to get into reloading , so appreciate the detailed demonstration
I tend to keep my die block screw all the way in to keep the die block from moving a lot, I've been using this press for over a year and love it, once you find what works for you and your loads you don't have to change a lot especially if you buy the extra die blocks they sale
Using just the die expander I’ve alway had group issues. I took them out and just case size and use expander Mandrels and I’m far more consistent now.
Fact on over-cam, it's mostly in one's mind. Once a press is bottomed out if it is strong enough it isn't going any further. Something is flexing when you over cam. Setting up some dies like collet dies is easier with a hard set. I retired my Lyman over cam press because it was harder to set up for crimping and neck sizing with collet dies and did no better at any function. I now just use my Dillon 550C and my new Lyman Turret Press that replaced my over cam older Lyman with.
Hey i was watching one of your videos and you where loading hunting ammunition and you said you hunt north east Kentucky. I’m from Morgan county (West Liberty). I enjoy your videos and would enjoy coming visiting your shop.
Thanks fer sharing all your hard work, on video, they are GREAT,....Thanks Again Sir !
Thank you for this video, I'd like to see some kind of review on the Nexus Press - Short Action
The main issue I had with my M-press was the die blocks. The brass set screw would get chewed up and loosen itself off, especially when sizing larger cases. I would constantly have to re-adjust my die and tighten the screw. My solution was to have my friend that runs a machine shop cut my die blocks to 0.55" thickness so I could fit a Forster lock-ring right on top of it. Haven't had to worry about it since
picture of your customized block would be cool to see.
I've seen some aftermarket die blocks from JoferUSA for sale out there...I know it should just come with better built parts. Just sayin
@@treywhite6249 I'm just glad someone's doing something about the crappy design! I'll take a look at them, thanks!
Love your video, good job for .223 REM. Thanks
I think the draw mandrel gives a more consistent neck tension and it pulls the entire case inline with the base. Kinda like pulling kinks out of water hose. While the pressed in neck sizer pushes the case in. Just my guess.
Been waiting! Happy Halloween!!!
I wanted to thank you for this video! I thought for years I wanted to upgrade to co-ax press. after the 1st 15 minutes I already had my doubts. With how I’m invested in my Lyman T-mag press I think I’m good.
Excellent data points created. It appears from your data that the variance is related to seating, neck tension and/or how far you've set the necks to your rifle's liking
as far as shell holder and case alignment to die you have to allow the shell holder to come tight and center case prior to running up into die. Proper rhythm as you come up not a stop and go.
I use my RCBS press to decap, resize and bump and my coax only to seat it save me a lot of stuffing around
Keep up the great work. I can only imagine all the time it takes to make one. Great job.
if it slides, grease it, if it rotates, oil it. I use the lucas extreme duty grease on my press rams. seems to lubricate and stay in place better,
Omg Johnny you should double as a comedian lol. Great video
Thanks for my first close look at a coaxial type press. I liked the overall philosophy behind this style, but the devil is in the detail and the implementation. My biggest take away is that, if I were to buy another press, I would certainly consider a coaxial style press as long as the cost kept it in the competition. Otherwise, for my uses, a classic style press is plenty accurate for me.
Don't buy this press, I have one for sale.
Long videos are the best. Something about your presentation makes me feel like I am there just hanging out. The fact that you dive down rabbit holes and ask the questions is fantastic. Appreciate the videos and please dive into the weeds with more powder/bullet comparisons for more calibers. UA-cam is amazingly lacking on good deep dives like yours on calibers like x54R and x39. Another one I would love to see would be a dive into 30-30. For some reason it seems most people just pick a load that gets them near a factory offering and that's it. Your content is more "I know what federal says it can do, but can we or the caliber do better?"
Hey, loved your video on the the Frankford Arsenal M-Press
I recently purchased one too. When I saw you trying the FA Universal seating die, I was hoping you would do the concentricity test with
it also !
I purchased a
hornady microjust micrometer
That didn’t fit.
Total bummer.
Not keen on the die blocks, the Co-Ax has the right idea just having the lock rings be the holder.
“Just slides in and out pretty easy.” JRB bein a horn dog on the new press.
Erik Cortina claims that runout doesn’t effect accuracy and it’s all about neck tension.
I have seen multiple times on a few different channels where runout hasn't effected results enough for the average guy to notice
Eric Cortina loves to claim things - to the verge of being polemic.
He is not a guy for nuances.
Doesn't mean that he isn't quintessentially right, though.
Johny by far has produced more load data than anyone. And those F class shooters. Aren't shooting real guns. If it's over 11lb let alone 22lb there not guns.
Jonny is a real load scientist.
I bed the barrels and lap the receivers on all my AR's... Bedding wouldn't be the best idea if you swap barrels around because it takes a little bit with some emery cloth or SOS pads to clean up the barrel extension and receiver but I can't think of a single reason not to do it. I'm looking for a new press now because the single stage I have has so much slop in it that it's driving me freaking crazy. I only use it for sizing and load development but then I transfer everything over to my Dillon 550C and just crank out ammo.
I think the runout problem comes from the way you resize the cases. Should be a full length bushing type die with a bushing just sizing under the target you want for neck tension and than you can use the mandrel you want for set the neck tension. I think your full length die sizes the neck down to small and the mandrel have to work too much cousing runout. I am in a same situation with my 308 .The chamber is on the max saami side and the die just have to work my lapua brass to hard. If I size the cases twice than I get better runout numbers but that is extra work on the brass. The best option would be a custom die and resizing the neck in 2 smaller steps. Unfrotunatelly I am in Europe and here we don't have the option for custom dies. Great video. Thank you.
looks like the redding standard was trying to double group. I think one more test is in order using a hard stop press
Cam over Vs. hard stop. It looks like to me it is actually a toggle joint rather than a cam. A toggle joint has tremendous leaverage as it closes.
Great video man. Really enjoyed all the info!!
The Frankford press is essentially a "lower cost" version of the Forester. I noticed a lot of "float" slop between the ram guides and pins. It's appears as if both the top and ram float, this cannot be beneficial to consistency and repeatability.
I'd like to take each apart and study not only the differences and how they impact the process but also the fit of each mating component in terms of size and alignment.
A good comparison on a single stage press would be not using the die lock ring at all and open the frame ram hole up .030 or so to allow the ram to float instead of guide. This would closely duplicate the slop seen on the Frankford press.
“I have committed to this strategy”…. Got a good laugh out of that… I have been there brother.
I have to know about the Redding die. Would you remove the expander mandrel and then cycle the brass without it. If the cartridge still catches on entry then the problem is the neck bushing. The more tapered side of the bushing should be down to help funnel the brass neck into the bushing. If entry is smooth without the mandrel then the hang up is the decaping pin. Simply break it off, because you already universal decap, and don't need it.
I remember when the forster coax was the Bonanza coax.
I still load on a bonanza !
Thank you for sharing your research
Thanks Johnny! Enjoyed the video!
My local Cabela's has a master reloader class and I talk to the guy all the time. I asked about this camover vs hardstoo he said hardstop is more consistent and that even the little breech lock can exert 18000 lbs onto the brass and that can over was not needed for shoulder bump. However I've always wondered the same thing because I feel like it's inconsistent. And possibly due to user error. Great question! Let's test it!
Johnny, take the carbide ball off and flip it over and see if that helps. The ball on my 6mm-284 worked better one way over the other. And for bullet seating I prefer dead stop on a press, cam over for sizing.
I have the Forster Co-Ax and love it. Would love to see you load some on one of those. Only press I've ever used, but it is supposed to be the best of the best for single stage presses...
Also on the co-ax I have purchased aftermarket linkages that are C shaped to give better side clearance to get your hands in there, a shorter handle, and a travel limiter that basically fixes the problem you mentioned of having to use the full stroke of the press to open the jaws to remove the piece of brass.
Open question. Do you think a moderate crimp will improve neck tension and consistency.
I borrowed an M-Press from my local gun store and played with it for a week. Gave it back to them and bought a Forster Coax. No doubt about it, the Coax is miles better. If you save money buying a POS, did you really save money?
I believe the difference between a cam-over and a hard stop press has to do with the amount of time the brass spends at it's maximum deflection point. On a cam-over press the brass flashes through that point then relaxes as the press handle is at it's max. On a hard stop press you can hold the brass at it's max deflection for a short time. I use around 7 seconds at max when I size brass. I believe it affects the spring back and produces more consistent shoulder lengths.
FWIW, look at the loading benches of any of the top shooters who have a YT channel. I've seen lots of Coax presses, but never an M-Press. Draw your own conclusions.
Perhaps the Redding expanders are worn or too much play/ movement, since both Lee and the mandrels are fixed, but honestly, give In-Line a call for a second mounting plate and a few plates for the trimmer and Hornady concentric tester?, or just press/ camera options? excuse to run a press and vice?
Isn‘t the K&M mandrel supposed to be floating in that holder?
Mine all came with a counter screw that goes into the tip of the mandrel and allows you to leave that mandrel dangling a little so it can „self-align“ a little.
Maybe worth a try since the runout numbers for the K&M look underwhelming
“I’ve got screwdrivers and band-aids.” 😂
is there a powder that will work good with .223 6.5cm and .308
I personally quit measuring runout don’t worry about my rifles shoot in the threes I found .004 runout shots as good or better than .002 of runout works for me