It’s incredible watching you adjusting gaps. I now understand the hammer trick with the bonnet more. I hope to someday be half as good with gaps as you are. Keep it up!
Elin, I’ve been watching your work for quite a few years now. However during this episode and while you were cutting and tacking the inner base of the door, I really felt I was there working with you. Great skill, great respect. Thank you my friend.
You have a good eye. Pattern parts, however well made are all different and will have to be adjusted to fit. Well done with your degree of patience and skill.
I remember when these GT6 and Spitfires were new. They all had huge gaps especially where the bonnet met the sill and the leading edge of the door. The only car with bigger gaps were the Citroens. ID19, DS19, DA21. The wagon’s gaps were the worst.
Hi, love your work. Can I just provide a suggestion on an idea we have implemented in our shop? We bought a cheap self leveling laser. We chalk a grid on the floor, using a chalk line, each cross line is 100mm . The laser is mounted on an old tripod with a centre bob from the level to the floor. All you do then is place the car centered on the grid and place the level in the direction and placement to suit what you are busy with. By raising the tripod, the laser line can assist with alignment. Total cost for us was USD20. Yes the chalk line can we wiped if you walk on it a lot, but it’s easy to put back.
Looking much better 😀 Chasing your tail ? Seems to be hidden damage some place that has tweaked the whole front end. You may try a body/frame measurement divider tool ? Your patience is admired ! Keep on eating that rust. Lol. Zoom zoom.
Yes, something somewhere has moved, but as long as we can cheat here and there and we make it look good I am happy. If the body alignment is off it is not a big deal. The frame is what is important
LOL, does that mean that the Japanese cars don't have wings or fenders, but some hard to pronounce words? I am pretty sure that in the UK the Toyotas have wings and in America they have fenders or quarter panels. And I am sure the Japanese people are not offended by that. I believe that the terms should be determined not by the car origin, but by the language used in the conversation. The problem here is that this conversation is between people from many nationalities and it is hard to decide what language to use.
Elin I'm sure that there has been an impact to that front quarter at some time which is why the wing was replaced. It you rewatch the first 2 mins where you are 'fixing' the misalignment you can see that the pressed bracket between the wheelarch and bonnet top looks to be really twisted ? It may be a funny factory design but I'm suspicious. That might explain why the bottom of the wing doesn't run parallel with the top of the sill ? The sill should be correct surely, who knows about the bonnet ? Also if you're advertising the louvred wings why not clamp them in place temporarily as a demo so any buyers can get a good idea how they would look (together with the bonnet top louvres). Cheers JM
Elin why are you doing the door the hard way, cut 3 pieces of scrap metal the same profile of the drivers side door vertically, tack the old patch on with the 3 pieces which will give you the right profile and height of the door, you can adjust the bottom of the patch to match the door frame, you then have a perfect template to fix the inner section, because you have already adjusted the patch to suit the frame you just need to weld on a flange , best regards
I am sorry Darren, I don't really understand the procedure you suggest. In any case I wouldn't use the driver's door as a template for the passenger. After so many years and alterations to these doors they are far from being a mirror image to each other. Remember, both doors were modified before, as well as the sills and now the passenger side sill has been modified by me again. So the only shape I'd like to follow is the new shape of the door jamb. I am sure it is far from the original factory shape. I don't find my way hard. I extended the door to have enough meat to overlap with the patch, then I positioned the patch to match the door jamb and now I have to put a skin on, matching the flange of the door base that I recreated. Maybe your way is easier, but I don't really follow. Why 3 pieces?
@@RustyBeauties if you take the skin patch and put it on the door while the door is on the car, line up the skin patch so it fits the door frame allow gaps and tack skin patch to door, you now have door with patch with exact outline to door frame and sill, then get 3 pieces of scrap metal that will reach from bottom of door to 6 inches past top of skin patch, tack 1 near door handle ,1 in middle of door and 1 near wing, you now have 3 pieces of metal running down the door in three spots, adjust the skin patch so it lines up with the sill outwards and tack it to piece of scrap tacked on door, do same on other 2 pieces, you now have exact outline of door frame and exact position of skin in correct profile in relation to frame and sill, you can now take door off car place door on table skin side down, place inner patch on back of skin patch and adjust inner patch to the edge of the skin patch the cut n weld inner patch to suit outer skin position , a much easier and guaranteed to have patch in exact position in relation to frame, sill and door, your choice in the method you use, just giving you an alternative option, best regards Elin
Ps, forgot to mention you will have to put a piece of metal between the inner and outer skins if you overlap outer skin patch when fitting up as you will have to allow for the metal thickness of the overlap
@@darrenwalker993 Thanks Darren! I think I understand and it might be easier for you, but to me it looks way too complicated. I appreciate the advice though.
Yes, it is, but sometimes we have no other option. And there is nothing wrong with that. As ling as it is done properly. It doesn’t make the metal weaker…. It is just a lot of labor
It’s incredible watching you adjusting gaps. I now understand the hammer trick with the bonnet more. I hope to someday be half as good with gaps as you are. Keep it up!
Elin, I’ve been watching your work for quite a few years now. However during this episode and while you were cutting and tacking the inner base of the door, I really felt I was there working with you. Great skill, great respect. Thank you my friend.
Some amazing feats of rebuilding that door and fitting the new wing. Great video as always. Thanks Elin.
You have a good eye. Pattern parts, however well made are all different and will have to be adjusted to fit. Well done with your degree of patience and skill.
Hi Elin, thank you for showing me again how the Clickos work! (I understand now) bless you🙏
Great progress 👊👍🏼
Helll's teeth! This is what I would call a heroic repair. Fascinated.
I remember when these GT6 and Spitfires were new. They all had huge gaps especially where the bonnet met the sill and the leading edge of the door. The only car with bigger gaps were the Citroens. ID19, DS19, DA21. The wagon’s gaps were the worst.
Yeah, they weren’t very focused on the gaps in Coventry 😂
Brilliant!!’
Thx great one 👍🚗😊
@22:09 Me too!
Great stuff 👏 👍 👌
Hi, love your work. Can I just provide a suggestion on an idea we have implemented in our shop? We bought a cheap self leveling laser. We chalk a grid on the floor, using a chalk line, each cross line is 100mm . The laser is mounted on an old tripod with a centre bob from the level to the floor. All you do then is place the car centered on the grid and place the level in the direction and placement to suit what you are busy with. By raising the tripod, the laser line can assist with alignment. Total cost for us was USD20. Yes the chalk line can we wiped if you walk on it a lot, but it’s easy to put back.
I’ve got a laser years ago with the same idea…. It is still in the box :) I never fell the need to use it.
Looking much better 😀
Chasing your tail ? Seems to be hidden damage some place that has tweaked the whole front end. You may try a body/frame measurement divider tool ? Your patience is admired !
Keep on eating that rust. Lol.
Zoom zoom.
Yes, something somewhere has moved, but as long as we can cheat here and there and we make it look good I am happy. If the body alignment is off it is not a big deal. The frame is what is important
take a straight edge from fender light to other fender light...i think your right on the old metalwork...
Yes, eventually when I get to that point that will be the way
i miss my 67 gt6
Yikes! What an alignment challenge!
Yep, and I love it!
Cheers.
Do the panels get better after a can of Stella (wife beater) and a snooze? Nice update again!
Its a English car, therefore it has bonnet,wings, sills, boot etc etc 😉
LOL, does that mean that the Japanese cars don't have wings or fenders, but some hard to pronounce words? I am pretty sure that in the UK the Toyotas have wings and in America they have fenders or quarter panels. And I am sure the Japanese people are not offended by that.
I believe that the terms should be determined not by the car origin, but by the language used in the conversation. The problem here is that this conversation is between people from many nationalities and it is hard to decide what language to use.
@@RustyBeauties The doesn't care, it is British. if you tried talking to it properly it might not resist you so much........😂
@@marksbikeexports5123 LOL
Elin I'm sure that there has been an impact to that front quarter at some time which is why the wing was replaced. It you rewatch the first 2 mins where you are 'fixing' the misalignment you can see that the pressed bracket between the wheelarch and bonnet top looks to be really twisted ? It may be a funny factory design but I'm suspicious. That might explain why the bottom of the wing doesn't run parallel with the top of the sill ? The sill should be correct surely, who knows about the bonnet ?
Also if you're advertising the louvred wings why not clamp them in place temporarily as a demo so any buyers can get a good idea how they would look (together with the bonnet top louvres).
Cheers JM
Yes, there has probably been an impact on this side and that is why the fender was replaced.
Elin why are you doing the door the hard way, cut 3 pieces of scrap metal the same profile of the drivers side door vertically, tack the old patch on with the 3 pieces which will give you the right profile and height of the door, you can adjust the bottom of the patch to match the door frame, you then have a perfect template to fix the inner section, because you have already adjusted the patch to suit the frame you just need to weld on a flange , best regards
I am sorry Darren, I don't really understand the procedure you suggest. In any case I wouldn't use the driver's door as a template for the passenger. After so many years and alterations to these doors they are far from being a mirror image to each other. Remember, both doors were modified before, as well as the sills and now the passenger side sill has been modified by me again. So the only shape I'd like to follow is the new shape of the door jamb. I am sure it is far from the original factory shape.
I don't find my way hard. I extended the door to have enough meat to overlap with the patch, then I positioned the patch to match the door jamb and now I have to put a skin on, matching the flange of the door base that I recreated. Maybe your way is easier, but I don't really follow. Why 3 pieces?
@@RustyBeauties if you take the skin patch and put it on the door while the door is on the car, line up the skin patch so it fits the door frame allow gaps and tack skin patch to door, you now have door with patch with exact outline to door frame and sill, then get 3 pieces of scrap metal that will reach from bottom of door to 6 inches past top of skin patch, tack 1 near door handle ,1 in middle of door and 1 near wing, you now have 3 pieces of metal running down the door in three spots, adjust the skin patch so it lines up with the sill outwards and tack it to piece of scrap tacked on door, do same on other 2 pieces, you now have exact outline of door frame and exact position of skin in correct profile in relation to frame and sill, you can now take door off car place door on table skin side down, place inner patch on back of skin patch and adjust inner patch to the edge of the skin patch the cut n weld inner patch to suit outer skin position , a much easier and guaranteed to have patch in exact position in relation to frame, sill and door, your choice in the method you use, just giving you an alternative option, best regards Elin
Ps, forgot to mention you will have to put a piece of metal between the inner and outer skins if you overlap outer skin patch when fitting up as you will have to allow for the metal thickness of the overlap
@@darrenwalker993 Thanks Darren! I think I understand and it might be easier for you, but to me it looks way too complicated. I appreciate the advice though.
For me, and I have spent 30 years on restoring classics, it is what we call a patchwork quilt repair, too many little bits stitched together.
Yes, it is, but sometimes we have no other option. And there is nothing wrong with that. As ling as it is done properly. It doesn’t make the metal weaker…. It is just a lot of labor
This is my best ever place, 5th.
tell chef to ditch the cooking and alpha videos and get back to restoring triumphs - he can restore Les' 6. and loved the swimming dream.