@@Raspyrides hey man, another amazing video as always but I do have a question the tires that you have on the AQ77 I plan to put those tires on my bike as well. What I wanted to know have you had any problems with the bike tire since installing them? As well as the fact, do you think they will fit on the a8 Pro Max
@@bearjew6665 I love those tires. I haven’t had any problems with them. They will fit the a8 but keep in mind they’re are a lot heavier than the stock tires.
@@Raspyrides we’ll see. I have had bad luck with tires with every bike with pedals I’ve ever had whether it’s a bike or regular. I end up, popping the tires within the first month of the bike and where I’ve been following your channel since the beginning I figured you would know also I wanted to know what I’d be able to run those tires with the tennis tire armor underneath it between the tire and the tube?
@@Raspyrides also here’s a question how much money could you make doing deliveries if you were to do it for a full day for example between six and eight hours
Thanks for all that you do Andy! You have educated me on the Fardriver controller and on how to tune it. I went with a 3000 watt motor from AliExpress and am hoping to hit 40-45 MPH on stock 52v Aniioki battery. If I could then I'll be happy with that build. I enjoy watching your channel, so keep making them! LOL. Thanks again!
@@Raspyrides Im not sure what controller it has, but is rated for 60a. It's not the NBpower brand, but another Chinese kit. Paid $300 for it. Shipping from China. Will be here sometime in mid December. Same kit on Ebay is $700. I'm planning on upgrading to a Fardriver controller in the future.
Coming along nicely. As long as you’re satisfied with it, then that’s all that matters. Need more volts, bigger brakes & more robust parts IOT handle high speeds & rough roads. Always amazed at the scale that some use to outweigh more balance, but I get it. Enjoy in great health & thanks for sharing.
Cool build. Often wanted to do the same but went the mid drive route on my Juiced City Scrambler instead with an upgraded ASI controller pulling a little over 3Kw with a 52V battery. I still have the stock geared hub for starts but only use it when I want some cruise control or a little boost up hills. Definitely my biggest fear is the front forks bucking at 45mph but other than that the Shinko SR 567 ride great. So far my bike has been running well for a few years now and probably my only upgrade would be to go to 72V 5Kw but I have that on a full suspension mtn bike already. Ride safe and be careful, I have seen pics of S2’s split in half at the downtube & top tube near the headset just from jumping off a curb. Keep an eye out in that area. Cheers and I’ll be your newest subscriber!
@@kmtnbike1117 thanks for the comment and sub! Your awd scrambler sounds sick! Yea my forks were bottoming out until I added air and now it feels solid!
@ Not really awd, rear geared hub with the mid drive driving the same wheel. Works just fine but the mid is far superior to the geared hub motor. My full suspension has 170mm of travel in front and plenty in rear to send my 5Kw mid drive sailing and landing on a pillow of air. 56lb bike that rips off road but the Scrambler is equally as fun to ride.
one thing worth replacing is the duct tape replace it with some Velcro tape you get stick points an can make covers with it also beeswax is an natural water sealant. meaning with it you can make water proof selves when winter comes eventually. with my rare brain disorder 45 miles on my anni-oki feels like the max i would ever want to go. far as things i want to try is stuff with carbon fiber an maybe weld up an rack seat an maybe build an side car for an an anni-oki ,then it might be a good idea to up the max speed only then.
You could take the battery out of that light and wire a DC to DC converter to the battery then you could use it the same way but without having to charge the light separate
Love me some upgrades! I get 50 with a 60a controller. I have an 80w coming next week. Yay! I had that same tire issue, but I actually used a 27” tube in a 26” rim, had to fold a piece. Lol. Got me home though
Careful with those Bucklos forks. I looked at reviews on Amazon and the dropouts snapped off on a guy’s first ride. Almost killed him. Good thing he was only doing 20mph. He showed a pic of what the metal inside looks like. Basically like foamed aluminum.
@ there were actually two instances of reviews where they snapped. One was on a dual hub motor setup, the other a young kid who was probably jumping. So excessive force can snap these or a fair percentage are just faulty metal. At least convinced me to invest in good forks. 🤞
Hey brother if you're going to go really high speeds those Wheels have to be balanced really good or you going to have problems and they have weights that can affix to the spokes I'm just saying. Take care of ride safe and God bless
@@jk7362 just a heads up, bikes usually appear cheaper on Amazon but it’s because they don’t include shipping and taxes yet. After that, the cost might be a bit more than direct from the website
@@Raspyrides i keep my core tight and get low as possible and keep my hand relax. I notice when i ride in the early morning with no around i just hold them super relax and the bike rips, when its busy and i hit high speed i notice i press down hard and my grip is much tighter and the ride doesn't feel a smooth in my arms and shoulders. I am new to riding with this kind for high speed ebike lol one day i'll push above 55mph. YOU ARE CRUSHING IT
Question Raspy Ride, hi new subscriber here, I subscribed! Question,how do you keep your bike safe when you do pickup delivery in places thats with alot people? If have great locks, can you sugget me with it? I appreciate! I'm trying make sure to keep safe my electric bike in those areas because theives suck.
@@theepicgrinder-9000 here’s a couple of my favorite locks but I usually just never take my eyes off it. The horn in the description is also a really nice alarm. amzn.to/3Z5pBfG amzn.to/4erUBes
@@geauxracerx yeah after looking into it more I found out that you need rim size 22's and they don't really make those. I guess you can build custom 21" or 23" using motorcycle rims? It sounds like a huge pain in the ass
@ lacing rims is tedious, but the real issue is getting the custom spoke length, but cause they are rolled to get the threads. Which makes them expand. Basically the threads are bigger. Where as cut threads are smaller than the material diameter. But I digress. So if you are wrong on your length you have to completely reorder. Though once you nail the spike length it’s just taking your time and making sure all of them are evenly tightened so the rim will be straight. 100% helps to have something you can use to spin the wheel in while you tighten them to see if it’s straight.
Hey Raspy yesterday my bike hit a bump ever since then the motor ain’t pushing out the same power it used to I checked wires everything is fine motor is 3+ years old 350 watt running 48 bolt 16 amp battery controller 20 amp max do you think I killed the motor? It still runs just not as fast
@@ISOLOTHEWORLD tbh, I don’t know too much about the internals of motors. I do know that geared hubs usually don’t last as long as direct drive. Some people recommend opening up the hub motors and greasing the gears
@ I’m really tryna avoid opening it up tbh btw dude I really appreciate you responding so quickly would u recommend a drirect drive over brushless? Also keep up the videos with the builds and explaining components it really helped me thank dude ur awsome
that blke should be able to do 80 mph max speed when every setting is unlocked through the controller and everything else based on my educated guess 🔥🔥🔥🔥
So its this bike? I just helped someone set up his Stealth clone which also had an NB Power 205 50H, and it had fhe dual hall sensor connectors and it did have a motor temperature sensor (the white wire in the hall sensor connector). His first battery was poo so I helped him design a battery for Amorge to build, and its 20s10p Molicel P42a pack with a 220a/500a ANT BMS. His controller is Fardriver 72450, 200a DC/450 phase. His ANT was programmed to work correctly with the Fardriver. ANT doesn’t make a 300a/400a BMS so im not sure which one you have. And Amorge normally leaves them at default so they need to be programmed when you get them. If you make a screen recording of the ANT app settings I can tell you if anything is wrong. Which Fardriver do you have? If 100a is the max DC, that’s too weak for your bike. Or do you only have it set to 100a but it can go to 200a?
@@imho7250 yes that is the bike! my motor is not their qs version. The qs actually has thicker phase wires and can handle heat much better. I have their qs motor in my delivery bike. My FarDriver is a 72530 set to 200line/450phase. I’ve never experienced any issue with the battery and the bms has never tripped on me. I more concerned with the motor. The listing says the motor speed is 960rpm. Without any weakening, I was only getting 793 which I assume is the true rated speed of the motor. Someone on Facebook mentioned that the motor “will buck if the ratio is set to high at specific rpm. Just lower until smooth.” Any thoughts on this?
@ if your motor is not based on a QS205 50H, maybe its not 16 pole pairs. If the pole pairs are correct, then maybe they sent you a different winding than the 950 rpm version. If you don’t have dual hall connectors then it’s not based on QS. NB Power sometimes rates the motors at maximum power and then puts continuous power down further in the specs. If you make a screen recording with field weakening on, showing all the settings first, then going to the graph page and making a 0-full speed run, holding it for 10 seconds at full speed, I can tell you what’s wrong. Make sure the phone is not in landscape because the new app changes the gauges and I need the gauges shown in portrait mode. Sounds like you have everything set but need to buy a QS205 50H 3T with temperature sensor and upgraded phase wires to match your battery and controller. You might have a 5T wind which cant handle many amps as 3T and rated rpm will be very low, but it will feel quite torquey with low amps.
@ thank you for all the help! I believe I figured out what caused that stall. I think it was too much motor saturation. Lowering the percentages helps a lot. Btw, do you happen to know what “LimitSpeed” is in the ratios in speed section? I’ve heard some say it’s the target rpm for field weakening to bring you up to. Is this true?
@ limit speed, if its still functional, was just a hard rpm limit, similar to maxspeed. But maxspeed is overridden when you use boost so the limit in ratios in speeds is the only RPM limit in boost if you have lots of excess DC amps available. Generally I prefer to set the max speed with ratios in speeds tapering down to 0% phase amps, which sets a hard RPM limit as well, but the taper adds stability. If your motor is getting super hot then it’s a sign its way too many amps for too many seconds. Lets assume your motor is a 205mm diameter motor like QS205, and 50mm thick to match 50H magnet size. and has 36 slots between the coils. At the factory there would be a stack of rotors all the same waiting to be wound. And the winding can be 2T, 3T, 4T or 5T (it can also be 2.3T, 2.6t, 3.3t etc but for this discussion we can stick with basics). Each slot has a limited number of stands of wire that can fit, let’s say they can hold 320 strands of AWG24 magnetic wire. That means 160 strands can be wrapped around each coil. So to make 2 turns, thats 80 stands each turn. 80x stands of 0.2mm^2 wire is 16mm2, which is also the size of the lhase wires used in some modified 205 motors. But if you choose 4T instead, that means each bundle of windings can only have 40 stands of 0.2mm^2 wire, so thats 8mm^2, Which is what a normal 205 phase wire is. Most people’s only talk about the high torque of the 4T over a 3T or 2T, but all the motors have the same peak torque. What changes is KV (rpm per volt die to back emf) and kT, amount of torque per amp of phase current. The 4T with 100a phase current gives the same torque as 2T with 200a phase current. The part most overlook is the fewer then turns in a properly made motor, the more strands per turn, and the higher the current it can handle. I think you can get KV in 6, 9, 13, 15, 18, 19.4. The 18 kv motor will run about 75 mph with a 20” tire and no field weakening. And adding field weakening you can get a little more but it will be at a high cost in amps, and therefore motor temp. Choosing 15 KV would give about 60 mph with a 20” tire before field weakening is needed. And you can add field weakening to go faster. This would be a more practical KV than 18. If you use the 13kv winding, thats the one that should have a rated rpm of 950 unloaded, it can probably go 55mph before field weakening is needed. The 9kv motor will go about 700 rpm with 80v or about 40-45 mph before field weakening is needed. But don’t forget, each time KV decreases, the number of stands in the winding bundle is less, and therefore the max current it can handle for a specific number of seconds is less. Nothing is free, its all a tradeoff. The battery capacity and the needed range must also be considered. As you increase speed, the energy consumption goes up exponentially. You have a 60ah battery which is huge, but it means you can only ride 1 hr if you set dc amps to 60a. You can set dc amps to 150a and use rpm limits to pull to down to 50a and probably still get an hours endurance. Seems your bike has the battery and controller, just needs a better motor. And it can still be NB Power and have the correct winding, temperature sensor, dual halls. For now you can make your motor run good by keeping amps within the allowed peak and max continuous. You can also tune PID for your motor. AN=0 LM=16 (start at 22 and decrease 20, 18, 16, 14 until when you accelerate from a stop, it feels smoothest, quietest. If unsure use the highest setting that gave good results. You can also try decreasing KI start-mid-max from default down to the next set shown in the fardriver manual. There are two versions but if your default is 4-8-12 you can try 4-4-6 and then test it under hard acceleration for smoothness and acceleration. Don’t go crazy with this because it is the current control loop and it needs to be stable.
@@paulgutierrez3394 not sure yet. I haven’t really done a range test. But I would guess 50 miles of aggressive riding and over a hundred if I stay below 30mph
That is insane, I want one lol. I’ve been 52mph on my e-scooter, these things are the future man, stay safe
@@DudeNews1 my next video will be on a 41mph scooter and that sounds scary to me 😅. Thanks brotha
@@Raspyrides hey man, another amazing video as always but I do have a question the tires that you have on the AQ77 I plan to put those tires on my bike as well. What I wanted to know have you had any problems with the bike tire since installing them? As well as the fact, do you think they will fit on the a8 Pro Max
@@bearjew6665 I love those tires. I haven’t had any problems with them. They will fit the a8 but keep in mind they’re are a lot heavier than the stock tires.
@@Raspyrides we’ll see. I have had bad luck with tires with every bike with pedals I’ve ever had whether it’s a bike or regular. I end up, popping the tires within the first month of the bike and where I’ve been following your channel since the beginning I figured you would know also I wanted to know what I’d be able to run those tires with the tennis tire armor underneath it between the tire and the tube?
@@Raspyrides also here’s a question how much money could you make doing deliveries if you were to do it for a full day for example between six and eight hours
Thanks for all that you do Andy! You have educated me on the Fardriver controller and on how to tune it. I went with a 3000 watt motor from AliExpress and am hoping to hit 40-45 MPH on stock 52v Aniioki battery. If I could then I'll be happy with that build. I enjoy watching your channel, so keep making them! LOL. Thanks again!
@@TrailBoundOffRoad oh you definitely should if everything goes right. Does it have an 80a sabvoton controller with 170mm dropout size
@@Raspyrides
Im not sure what controller it has, but is rated for 60a. It's not the NBpower brand, but another Chinese kit. Paid $300 for it. Shipping from China. Will be here sometime in mid December. Same kit on Ebay is $700. I'm planning on upgrading to a Fardriver controller in the future.
Wow what speed! great looking bike thanks for the video
@@MTF.DevonRed thanks for watching!!
Coming along nicely. As long as you’re satisfied with it, then that’s all that matters.
Need more volts, bigger brakes & more robust parts IOT handle high speeds & rough roads.
Always amazed at the scale that some use to outweigh more balance, but I get it.
Enjoy in great health & thanks for sharing.
Cool build. Often wanted to do the same but went the mid drive route on my Juiced City Scrambler instead with an upgraded ASI controller pulling a little over 3Kw with a 52V battery. I still have the stock geared hub for starts but only use it when I want some cruise control or a little boost up hills. Definitely my biggest fear is the front forks bucking at 45mph but other than that the Shinko SR 567 ride great. So far my bike has been running well for a few years now and probably my only upgrade would be to go to 72V 5Kw but I have that on a full suspension mtn bike already. Ride safe and be careful, I have seen pics of S2’s split in half at the downtube & top tube near the headset just from jumping off a curb. Keep an eye out in that area. Cheers and I’ll be your newest subscriber!
@@kmtnbike1117 thanks for the comment and sub! Your awd scrambler sounds sick! Yea my forks were bottoming out until I added air and now it feels solid!
@
Not really awd, rear geared hub with the mid drive driving the same wheel. Works just fine but the mid is far superior to the geared hub motor. My full suspension has 170mm of travel in front and plenty in rear to send my 5Kw mid drive sailing and landing on a pillow of air. 56lb bike that rips off road but the Scrambler is equally as fun to ride.
Love the build man I’m building a hidoes b6 it’s the same color scheme I’m excited fr
Nice! The frame looks like it’d be so fun to work with!
future coming on. nice build.
one thing worth replacing is the duct tape replace it with some Velcro tape you get stick points an can make covers with it also beeswax is an natural water sealant. meaning with it you can make water proof selves when winter comes eventually. with my rare brain disorder 45 miles on my anni-oki feels like the max i would ever want to go. far as things i want to try is stuff with carbon fiber an maybe weld up an rack seat an maybe build an side car for an an anni-oki ,then it might be a good idea to up the max speed only then.
You could take the battery out of that light and wire a DC to DC converter to the battery then you could use it the same way but without having to charge the light separate
Yep, that's a million-dollar rap😅👍🏿
Love me some upgrades! I get 50 with a 60a controller. I have an 80w coming next week. Yay! I had that same tire issue, but I actually used a 27” tube in a 26” rim, had to fold a piece. Lol. Got me home though
sick man 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Not gonna lie, while the build is sick i gotta skip the freestyle every time 😂
@@liarus a bad cheesy rap and calling it a million dollar song is actually from a movie lol. If you know…you know
yep it terrible 💀😂🤦♂️🙄
@ instead of 50 Cent….yall can call me 5 cent 💪
@@Raspyrides 5 pennies Canadian/ these boys is all hatin/ procrastinatin/
Follow Jesus not Satan /
@@Raspyrides I knew the rap wasn't totally new!
just got my first E-Bike. might see me riding Torrance/Longbeach/Carson hehe
Careful with those Bucklos forks. I looked at reviews on Amazon and the dropouts snapped off on a guy’s first ride. Almost killed him. Good thing he was only doing 20mph. He showed a pic of what the metal inside looks like. Basically like foamed aluminum.
Thanks for the heads up! I’ll check for any cracks
@ there were actually two instances of reviews where they snapped. One was on a dual hub motor setup, the other a young kid who was probably jumping. So excessive force can snap these or a fair percentage are just faulty metal. At least convinced me to invest in good forks. 🤞
107km/h just insane awesome bike... sadly those in europe are illegal driving without the bike license. You have to register it :(
@@parabelluminvicta8380 this is illegal everywhere. Not just Europe but I live in a high crime area so the police don’t really care
@@Raspyrides damn be carefull mate. Stay safe
Hey brother if you're going to go really high speeds those Wheels have to be balanced really good or you going to have problems and they have weights that can affix to the spokes
I'm just saying. Take care of ride safe and God bless
Great build! im seeing some annioki bikes on amazon going for 900!
@@jk7362 just a heads up, bikes usually appear cheaper on Amazon but it’s because they don’t include shipping and taxes yet. After that, the cost might be a bit more than direct from the website
Nice build! Where did you buy 4 inch Shinko 244's ?
Thanks! Revzilla
i hit 47mph on my Revv 1 and i have to have a relax grip to have more contral of the bike. I love your content, keep them coming
@@CoachJeffreyGallardo thanks for the input! Are you pressing your weight down on your bars or just holding them?
@@Raspyrides i keep my core tight and get low as possible and keep my hand relax. I notice when i ride in the early morning with no around i just hold them super relax and the bike rips, when its busy and i hit high speed i notice i press down hard and my grip is much tighter and the ride doesn't feel a smooth in my arms and shoulders. I am new to riding with this kind for high speed ebike lol one day i'll push above 55mph. YOU ARE CRUSHING IT
Turned out nice 👊🏻, which light ( size ) on the light bar ? Did you go with the link shows a couple different sizes.
@@Calishooterone thank you! I chose the large! It’s amazing!
Question Raspy Ride, hi new subscriber here, I subscribed!
Question,how do you keep your bike safe when you do pickup delivery in places thats with alot people? If have great locks, can you sugget me with it? I appreciate! I'm trying make sure to keep safe my electric bike in those areas because theives suck.
@@theepicgrinder-9000 here’s a couple of my favorite locks but I usually just never take my eyes off it. The horn in the description is also a really nice alarm.
amzn.to/3Z5pBfG
amzn.to/4erUBes
Dang, the biggest downside to having a fat tire ebike is I can't run shinkos.
They sell a 26" but it's friggin $200 per tire haha
Where are 26” Shinkos please
I looked but the rim size was off by ½” on every one I found
@@geauxracerx yeah after looking into it more I found out that you need rim size 22's and they don't really make those. I guess you can build custom 21" or 23" using motorcycle rims? It sounds like a huge pain in the ass
@ lacing rims is tedious, but the real issue is getting the custom spoke length, but cause they are rolled to get the threads. Which makes them expand. Basically the threads are bigger. Where as cut threads are smaller than the material diameter.
But I digress. So if you are wrong on your length you have to completely reorder. Though once you nail the spike length it’s just taking your time and making sure all of them are evenly tightened so the rim will be straight. 100% helps to have something you can use to spin the wheel in while you tighten them to see if it’s straight.
Hey Raspy yesterday my bike hit a bump ever since then the motor ain’t pushing out the same power it used to I checked wires everything is fine motor is 3+ years old 350 watt running 48 bolt 16 amp battery controller 20 amp max do you think I killed the motor? It still runs just not as fast
@@ISOLOTHEWORLD tbh, I don’t know too much about the internals of motors. I do know that geared hubs usually don’t last as long as direct drive. Some people recommend opening up the hub motors and greasing the gears
@ I’m really tryna avoid opening it up tbh btw dude I really appreciate you responding so quickly would u recommend a drirect drive over brushless? Also keep up the videos with the builds and explaining components it really helped me thank dude ur awsome
that blke should be able to do 80 mph max speed when every setting is unlocked through the controller and everything else based on my educated guess 🔥🔥🔥🔥
So its this bike? I just helped someone set up his Stealth clone which also had an NB Power 205 50H, and it had fhe dual hall sensor connectors and it did have a motor temperature sensor (the white wire in the hall sensor connector).
His first battery was poo so I helped him design a battery for Amorge to build, and its 20s10p Molicel P42a pack with a 220a/500a ANT BMS.
His controller is Fardriver 72450, 200a DC/450 phase.
His ANT was programmed to work correctly with the Fardriver.
ANT doesn’t make a 300a/400a BMS so im not sure which one you have. And Amorge normally leaves them at default so they need to be programmed when you get them. If you make a screen recording of the ANT app settings I can tell you if anything is wrong.
Which Fardriver do you have? If 100a is the max DC, that’s too weak for your bike. Or do you only have it set to 100a but it can go to 200a?
@@imho7250 yes that is the bike! my motor is not their qs version. The qs actually has thicker phase wires and can handle heat much better. I have their qs motor in my delivery bike.
My FarDriver is a 72530 set to 200line/450phase. I’ve never experienced any issue with the battery and the bms has never tripped on me. I more concerned with the motor. The listing says the motor speed is 960rpm. Without any weakening, I was only getting 793 which I assume is the true rated speed of the motor.
Someone on Facebook mentioned that the motor “will buck if the ratio is set to high at specific rpm. Just lower until smooth.” Any thoughts on this?
@ if your motor is not based on a QS205 50H, maybe its not 16 pole pairs. If the pole pairs are correct, then maybe they sent you a different winding than the 950 rpm version.
If you don’t have dual hall connectors then it’s not based on QS. NB Power sometimes rates the motors at maximum power and then puts continuous power down further in the specs.
If you make a screen recording with field weakening on, showing all the settings first, then going to the graph page and making a 0-full speed run, holding it for 10 seconds at full speed, I can tell you what’s wrong. Make sure the phone is not in landscape because the new app changes the gauges and I need the gauges shown in portrait mode.
Sounds like you have everything set but need to buy a QS205 50H 3T with temperature sensor and upgraded phase wires to match your battery and controller. You might have a 5T wind which cant handle many amps as 3T and rated rpm will be very low, but it will feel quite torquey with low amps.
@ thank you for all the help! I believe I figured out what caused that stall. I think it was too much motor saturation. Lowering the percentages helps a lot. Btw, do you happen to know what “LimitSpeed” is in the ratios in speed section? I’ve heard some say it’s the target rpm for field weakening to bring you up to. Is this true?
@ limit speed, if its still functional, was just a hard rpm limit, similar to maxspeed. But maxspeed is overridden when you use boost so the limit in ratios in speeds is the only RPM limit in boost if you have lots of excess DC amps available. Generally I prefer to set the max speed with ratios in speeds tapering down to 0% phase amps, which sets a hard RPM limit as well, but the taper adds stability.
If your motor is getting super hot then it’s a sign its way too many amps for too many seconds.
Lets assume your motor is a 205mm diameter motor like QS205, and 50mm thick to match 50H magnet size. and has 36 slots between the coils. At the factory there would be a stack of rotors all the same waiting to be wound. And the winding can be 2T, 3T, 4T or 5T (it can also be 2.3T, 2.6t, 3.3t etc but for this discussion we can stick with basics).
Each slot has a limited number of stands of wire that can fit, let’s say they can hold 320 strands of AWG24 magnetic wire. That means 160 strands can be wrapped around each coil. So to make 2 turns, thats 80 stands each turn. 80x stands of 0.2mm^2 wire is 16mm2, which is also the size of the lhase wires used in some modified 205 motors.
But if you choose 4T instead, that means each bundle of windings can only have 40 stands of 0.2mm^2 wire, so thats 8mm^2, Which is what a normal 205 phase wire is.
Most people’s only talk about the high torque of the 4T over a 3T or 2T, but all the motors have the same peak torque. What changes is KV (rpm per volt die to back emf) and kT, amount of torque per amp of phase current. The 4T with 100a phase current gives the same torque as 2T with 200a phase current.
The part most overlook is the fewer then turns in a properly made motor, the more strands per turn, and the higher the current it can handle.
I think you can get KV in 6, 9, 13, 15, 18, 19.4. The 18 kv motor will run about 75 mph with a 20” tire and no field weakening. And adding field weakening you can get a little more but it will be at a high cost in amps, and therefore motor temp.
Choosing 15 KV would give about 60 mph with a 20” tire before field weakening is needed. And you can add field weakening to go faster. This would be a more practical KV than 18.
If you use the 13kv winding, thats the one that should have a rated rpm of 950 unloaded, it can probably go 55mph before field weakening is needed.
The 9kv motor will go about 700 rpm with 80v or about 40-45 mph before field weakening is needed.
But don’t forget, each time KV decreases, the number of stands in the winding bundle is less, and therefore the max current it can handle for a specific number of seconds is less.
Nothing is free, its all a tradeoff. The battery capacity and the needed range must also be considered. As you increase speed, the energy consumption goes up exponentially. You have a 60ah battery which is huge, but it means you can only ride 1 hr if you set dc amps to 60a. You can set dc amps to 150a and use rpm limits to pull to down to 50a and probably still get an hours endurance.
Seems your bike has the battery and controller, just needs a better motor. And it can still be NB Power and have the correct winding, temperature sensor, dual halls. For now you can make your motor run good by keeping amps within the allowed peak and max continuous. You can also tune PID for your motor.
AN=0
LM=16 (start at 22 and decrease 20, 18, 16, 14 until when you accelerate from a stop, it feels smoothest, quietest. If unsure use the highest setting that gave good results.
You can also try decreasing KI start-mid-max from default down to the next set shown in the fardriver manual. There are two versions but if your default is 4-8-12 you can try 4-4-6 and then test it under hard acceleration for smoothness and acceleration. Don’t go crazy with this because it is the current control loop and it needs to be stable.
@ I actually don’t use boost. I’ve seen my rpm’s go past the limit speed before though? Does maxspeed override limitspeed when not using boost?
Your unique voice is something different. Sounds a bit like Mickey Mouse!😅
@@jeremybobb1625 lol I would think it sounds like the exact opposite of Mickey!
I got the same gloves they okay to protect yo hands but not the best
They’re perfect for punching out side mirrors….jk lol
Whats the range on this build?
@@paulgutierrez3394 not sure yet. I haven’t really done a range test. But I would guess 50 miles of aggressive riding and over a hundred if I stay below 30mph
Is that the size large lightbar?
@@KingKie23 yup
What kit u have on it 3k or 5k? N battery please 72v?
@@SanchoRAMZAM I didn’t use a kit for this but the motor is a 5kw
flux weakening or field weakening?
I think it’s field weakening. TBH, I didn’t know there was a difference until your comment lol
you are saturating the internet with unneccessary content
@@scewtersource thanks for clicking my video, watching and even commenting. I really appreciate you supporting the channel.
You're gonna have to start strapping a pillow to your but to absorb the high speed hard tail bumps.
@@ELECTRICBIKEDIYLIFE the stock seat already feels like a pillow lol
You belong in jail. You and your fellow JeffSpicolis are ruining it for everyone.
@@johnrob3215 Thanks for clicking my video, watching and commenting. You supporting my channel will help me post bail 😊
Cry about it
And what do you ride?
@ it’s not about riding it’s about acting the fool, recording it and posting for kids to see.
this guy never seen a Suronstor video lol. Hes got no idea...