The Ultimate Shop Air Compressor Setup! (at least for me....)
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- Опубліковано 4 лип 2024
- How I set up my shop air compressor, including running galvanized iron pipes with drops, filters, pre-cooler, moisture separators, and air driers.
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That setup indeed deserves the term "ultimate". My grandfather (who was an expert on overbuilding things) would be proud of you.
I was thinkin the same thing. That system will likely outlast the owner. But the complexity and auxiliary systems are a LOT.
I'm not crazy of the bright blue myself Keith. It definitely stands out.
Nice job on the air system.
Beautifully over done.
As soon as Keith mentioned the blue piping, I thought of you, Steve! :)
No offense to KR but I like urs better.
@@donjohnston9554 Ah that's sweet!
I like yours better. It is not susceptible to internal rusting and contamination of the air.
@@ElmerJFudd-oi9kj Not trying to be sweet (altho it is LOL) but KRs piping is 100% industrial application. Now for a home or small shop their are HUGE advantages with SS's system. Larger air flow, convenience of modification, cost, repairability, on and on. The only place I would NOT put SS's is a welding/grinding booth. As for COLOR, well my OCD is not that bad. LOL
Love the way you designed & built the system. Do it right or do it twice. 38 years ago I plumbed my shop with copper. Never regretted it. That's my retirement on the walls!
Got it right
I did my garage in copper 28 years ago and don't regret it eather and I'm still on my original compressor that I change the oil periodically and just changed a belt since it wore out and broke.
38 years ago it didn't cost a Million dollars to use copper...LOL
Pop the plug off of the bottom tee of every drop and add a 4" long piece of pipe with a cap. That'll be your dirt leg to catch trash and moisture. A blow down valve on each drop after the dirt leg is good too.
Its good to see a proper screwed galv pipe compressed air installation that is not only reliable but safe. A client of mine, who is a major bus operator in UK tried a plastic pipe compressed air installation in a bus workshop and found it disastrous. Apart from the constant leaks, the crunch came when a joint let go and the plastic pipe flailed around the workshop after ripping the feeble clips out of the wall, that simply can't happen with galv pipe.
I spent 5 years as a Sales Engineer for a Mill/Industrial supply house here in Atlanta. Helped a LOT of customers either set up a shop or upgrade existing systems. Something you might find (will find) useful is an air hoist for your Gantry Crane! Now that you have air plumbed everywhere you can use it a LOT. Beats the snot out of a chain fall! Looks like an "A" list setup BTW!
I added an air hoist about 4 years ago and love it! Had to rebuild the hoist 4 times to get it to work properly; someone had added an extra internal washer that would only bind up under pressure.
Nothin like a sales pitch. ROFLMFAO
@@anonimous2451 Since he's not pimping a specific brand it's not a sales pitch. Go be retarded somewhere else. Pneumatic hoists (and tuggers which are outstanding for moving heavy loads horizontally in shops etc) are common in industry where adults need to get work done.
A key advantage by not being electrical they're far less hazardous in rough use environments. No heavy expensive cable to run and they're handy for mobile use as they can be run from any pneumatic source with enough CFM, or even a portable CO2 cylinder which many contractors use to run a variety of tools. Power Tank make the fancy off-road variety but I use common industrial fixed pressure Western regulators in the field.
Thanks for the comments regarding Teflon tape and joint compound acting as "lubricants" to facilitate a little extra gronk on the thead bind...
Twenty years ago when I built my garage I plumbed the air using black iron pipe have had no reservations, nice tidy job there Keith.
With you 1000%
I am now retired, but I spent over 40 years as and an industrial electrical/millwright contractor and we put in miles of air lines or all types. I would wire my shop in romex before I'd use plastic air lines.,,,,, You did the job EXACTLY like I would have done it. Only thing is I wouldn't have used the unions (We would just cut and re-thread a pipe if we needed to put in a full size branch,) and unless there was some spec we were working to we put a T every 5 feet. That way you are never more then 30" from a drop.
Not just because you did it the same way we would have done it, including getting the compressor outside, but you did as good of a job as any of the fitters that used to work for us.( ,,,,, Not a good job, but a GREAT job. (And God bless you for not using rat cable.)
Just the $$$$$ could give most guys a heart attack!
Where I used to work, the factory had a 12 inch pipe in the roof as both compressed air storage and distribution.
The trick was that the pipe, some 600 foot long, sloped down at one end about 3 inches.
Air feeds were mounted off the top of the 12 inch tube, at to low end of the 12 inch was a 4 inch pipe welded into the bottom.
Reason was to feed "dry" air to the tools and to collect any condensation in the 4 inch off the bottom. We had a fitting on the bottom of the 4 inch to drain any accumulated water. 4 inch was about 20 feet long. Was a daily job to drain it.
Worst thing for the air tools is water, freezes them up real quick.
Kudos on your system. My work experience was as a naval architect/marine engineer, working with oil tankers. I have been involved with the design and redesign of ship's air systems.
Ideally, designing, for ship service, control and start air systems requires the production of clean, dry air. We used water cooled tube heat exchangers and cyclone separators to remove water in hot, humid climates. To further remove water for control air we used Hankison Refridgifilters. Ideally, air should be cleaned and dried prior to it being put into the air bottle to prevent rust in the tanks. Tanks were coated with varnish on the inside to prevent corrosion. Our preference for service air compressors were rotary screw compressors. Piston compressors were used for start air because of the need for higher pressures. We also used hand-cranked single cylinder diesel air compressors for dead ship starting in emergencies.
If I were designing an air system today I would use stainless tubing and compression fittings such as those made by Pyplock and others. In areas where mechanical damage could be an issue I would switch to stainless pipe. I would also look to dry and clean all air, not just control air. I would tend to move away from galvanized pipe because, just like tools made overseas, it just isn't made like it once was. In a new build project in the late 1990s to early 2000s we sent an engineer to inspect galvanized pipe at the supplier to ensure quality, something a general consumer cannot possibly do.
In any case I enjoy your videos immensely.
Bob
30+ year industrial maintenance engineer and 'boots on the ground' guy here, and I'm dammed proud of you!
You did almost everything right, and the only thing you did that MIGHT not be 100% right is probably not that big of a deal in the long run.
The one questionable thing about your setup is providing power to the air dryer only when the unit is running, and if you know a guy that is really good on small, high pressure refrigerant systems like this, I would strongly advise you to get with him about this.
Hermetically sealed compressors like that are often designed to be internally "leaky" - that is, the refrigerant being pumped is not completely separated from the oily within the compressor. That's pretty much what keeps the oil cool enough to not degrade and have to be changed like you have to do in a car or something. The problem is, the oil and refrigerant sometimes mix so well that some of the oil will get pumped out of the compressor and into the condenser, where it condenses and ends up all over the place EXCEPT the compressor - which is where it is supposed to be.
A way around this is something called a 'crankcase heater'. A crankcase heater is just a small heating unit that keeps the oil in the crankcase of the compressor warm enough to boil out any refrigerant while the unit isn't actively running. It keeps the oil in the crankcase during downtime, and the refrigerant on the other side of the compressor. Without that, and especially in cold weather, you could have some oil migration out of your compressor. Like I said, get a HVACR guy to look at your system and give you better advise on this than some random guy on YT like me. If you have the schematics and or paperwork on the system, he should be able to glance at it and give a 'pass or fail' on your set up.
The things that are right, and why:
1) For a 10 horse system, the two 80 gallon tanks are plenty of buffer capacity, but especially with the added 1" pipe loop that takes your 160 gallon capacity up to around 200 gallons. That prevents short cycling of the compressor and prolongs motor life.
1.B) Between your intercooler and double tank system, they are reducing the work load on your air dryer by probably a minimum of 60% - but I live just and work a little north of you in Georgia, and I know how the humidity can tax a system on those Dog days of summer.
2) A 1" main distribution loop is big enough for future upgrades up to about a 20 horse system. You could have gone with 3/4" pipe and been fine, but I would have done the same thing as you did and went with 1".
3) ALL 'drops' should start off as risers on compressed air systems, and I was happy to see that you did exactly that, and for the reasons you stated. Gotta admit though, when you showed the first quick connect outlet, I was cringing a fair bit when I saw an elbow instead of a tee with a dirt leg. However, I was happy to hear you point out that the ell was temporary until you could get a tee.
4) In my career, I've always said that a piping system cannot have too many valves, or unions / blanked off tees (instead of couplings). I've worked in too many places that either had to run 24/7, or just had to keep running when something bad happened to a small part of some system that would require a total system shutdown in order to fix that one thing. The ability to isolate smaller areas for shutdown while the rest of the place keeps working while parts and labor come to bear on the problem, is worth every one of those fifty to a couple hundred bucks of initial outlay.
Truck air brake tubing comes in several colors. Even brown, black, green, red, orange, and blue. When my employer built the new shop we plumbed the air using 3/4 air brake tubing. All the drops were 5/8 inch and even the furthest drop had no problem feeding a one inch impact gun.
Mr. Rucker, I thoroughly enjoy your attention to detail and taking the time to do it to the best of your ability. It's a shame that time has destroyed the work ethic and expertise that our forefathers put into their work. It's only overkill to those that don't appreciate it. I wish you were my neighbor. We'd engineer overkill projects together!
One of the banes of my existence as an Energy Manager was the various air systems in the factories I was responsible for. First off, nobody seemed to realise how expensive compressed air was. In the end I bought an ultra sonic instrument to help find the many many air leaks from the joints in the systems. First, I’d stay behind after the area staff went home, when it was quiet, monitoring the systems and marking up the leaks. After the first round of repairs the ultra sonic instrument was used to identify the smaller leaks in the more inaccessible places. And that was phase 2 of the repairs.
So Keith, you have a huge number of joints, valves and equipment connections which are liable to leak. I’d check your system out on a regular basis because you’ll be surprised what this is going to cost. Isolating sections and looking for over night pressure drops. I like the fact that you can isolate the air cylinder easily, meaning that a whole cylinder of air won’t be wasted into the atmosphere. Anyway, enjoy, your electrician has set you up with a very useful control system and it really does cover all of that shop of yours. By the way, lorries/trucks have 24v lighting systems. Would any of their bulbs have fitted your indicator lamps? Regards.
When you come in in the morning and there is still air in the system,,,,don't worry about it. - I saw the way he did it too. - It will be 2070 or later before he is going to have leaks in the main line,,,,if then. The QD,,,,,now that;s a whole nother ball game.
Very nice job! Refrigerated air dryer are usually left on 24/7 they have a thermostat just like your refrigerator. By leaving on it keeps their mass cold. Many times on the T at the bottom of your airdrop there's a 6in nipple and valve as another water Trap and drain. Excellent idea putting the compressor switch by the door. I tide mine into the light switch. When I turn the lights off I can't forget the compressor. Nice to see iron pipe! Air system normally use black iron pipe because galvanizing pipe will contaminate air and can't be used for painting. Happy to see an oil separator be sure to change it yearly. you don't know they've gone bad until your airlines are full of oil. LOL
Glad to see that you are using a refrigerated air dryer, oil water separator in your compressed air lines. Galvanized pipe is adequate for dry compressed air piping. As a facilities engineer we always use Type-L copper tubing for 1" and smaller piping. Every drop should have a dirt leg with a ball valve and a removable plug. Hanson and Parker were our go to quick connects depending on what gas or liquid media we were conveying. Most drops had a small filter and a small oil/water separator and a pressure regulator before the quick connect. Normal compressed air pressure is 80 psig and reduced to 15 psig for a blow off gun. Overall your compressed air system looks good and should work well. Congratulations!
Great job Keith! This was obviously not your first Rodeo with screw-pipe! The mastery of your pipe design and installation was shown off in the compressor room, where there are short distances between fittings. A beautiful job for sure, and I love the attention to detail. Also loved the Ridgid threading machine from back in the old days, before Emerson bought them out.
I'm with you on ladders Keith. At 64, I'm just not that steady on the rungs anymore.
I 100% agree with staying off of ladders. The ground got harder over the years. I'm with you, galvanized pipe is the better way to go. Beautiful workmanship!
Keith, I noticed that you have your air compressor bolted to the floor. When I did that, it rattled and vibrated like crazy so I took the bolts out and just left it setting on four pads of truck mud flap material. It seems a lot more happy now.
Thank you Kieth this video is exactly what I need to finalize my plans and stop procrastinating your vital hints will be very valuable!
I've been in a ton of shops, never seen a compressor setup this nice and well though out ! Congratulations !!
I always put in a dump valve on the down spout at each outlet so you can dump water out in the pipe before the start of the day
Your shop your way. Similar setup I have done. The steel also works well with hanging partition curtains on if you have a dusty job or painting.
I love the thought process, nice setup and installation.
Oh good... I'm not the only one who was crazy enough to run galvy air lines. Even with the UP-drops, I'd still recommend a drip tube and drain valve at all your air fittings. I still get water.
Have you seen Milton's new V series air chucks?? They take the new V plugs (70% more flow) but they still accept M plugs too.
Love to see someone mimic my installation that I did 5 years ago. I have every component you have plus 5. 1) Add your portable air tank into the compressor tank storage before the solenoid shut off with quick connects and you will always be ready to go with emergency air and you will add 10 gallons more of air capacity. 2) have the intake pipe to the first storage tank shoot the air tangentially to the tank wall to help with cooling. 3) I used two compressors with one large tank staged to kick in when needed for a total of 12 1/2 hp all single phase for the same reasons. 4) have a rubber hose immediately after the compressor tank to keep vibrations out of the lines. 5) add a large air sandblaster fitting and piping outside the compressor shed for sandblasting large items outside.
My whole shop turns off minus the lights and battery charging circuits with one switched 100 amp relay with switches at each entrance. This assures you don’t leave a soldering iron or something running as well as a run away compressor due to a large air leak. I would have preferred you would have used black iron pipe and not used galvanized pipe as it is always discouraged in air systems due to flaking of the plating. I used copper as it is easier to make compact installations and to modify but more expensive. Great installation and you will never regret overdoing it - I haven’t.
Keith
nice to see air drops done correctly out the top , If you suffer like I do go to next room and forget what I went in for 😇 as you have control panels near each door why not wire in a interlock into the door dead bolt so when you lock the door with a key it disables the air comp. and the phase converter , its the same set up as used in burglar alarms to override the door trip ( instant ) when you unlock the door to give you time to use the key pad
I`ve been in compressed air for 30years and you've made a good job of that installation
That pipe and conduit is better looking than most industrial stuff I've seen. Great work
Wow! what a first class operation. that took a lot of thought to get done correctly very impressive, I’d be very proud of that in my shop...
Keith, beautifully engineered and executed. Congratulations
I agree on the way real pipe looks, when I redid my air lines last summer I went back and forth a few times and ended up with black pipe. Have had issues with galvanized flaking and getting in tools and I couldn't bring myself to trust "O" rings for the long term.
"THERE is NO KILL like OVER KILL"
No one was ever upset that they over built something.
Enjoy your fantastic shop. Nice job on the infrastructure. Refrigerator, easy chair and hot plate next!
Your videos are always helpful and entertaining but every once in a while you flex your muscles and show how much you know. This is one of those times.
Great setup! Some of those issues I'd thought of too, but your implementation is way better than what I was thinking. Now to build a shop to put it all in.
Very nice air setup you got yourself
Keith, you have about as much sympathy/empathy for Miles as a boss of mine when I was young. He would put me up on the extension ladder and he assured me that if I fell....he promised he would catch me on the first bounce.
This is inspiring, presently looking at air systems, thank you for explaining the details.
Your setup is outstanding! Great job sir!
I wouldn’t call it way over board but a dream shop air system supply. You nailed it Sir! I like the way you think, a modern blue line has no place in a old classic vintage work shop. Thumbs way up!!
I have just set up my shop its not as big as yours but I made the same decision on the air pipe, so you doing the same has put my mind at rest. love the vids keep them coming it gives a novice inspiration.
Sweet setup.
Thanks,
John
Great design and installation Keith - well done!
Nice work, Keith!
16:10 Keith... you went full on beast mode with that thing. It's amazing.
That is a sweet and thoughtful setup. I need about 10% of that for my garage workshop.
beautiful system, thanks for posting
Two easy suggestions Keith, very small but can save you a headache. First at 22:35, at the bottom of your tanks is an elbow with 8" ish nipple and valve for your timer drains. Let me tell you after many years of working on compressors, that toes find their way of stepping in them. They snap off easily right at the bottom of the tank. Then you have to stop, lay on the ground, reach under there with an extractor tool, then make the repair. Easily preventable. The bottom of the tank has 1 elbow, just add another one. If you kick the nipple sticking out or step on it with your toe, it will thread down or sideways a tiny bit and not break. Im telling you it does happen all the time. Second suggestion is also super easy. That shed will be warm and spiders and all sorts of little bugs will find a home in there. Add one hose connection. When you inevitably go to do maintenance, you can blow all that dirt and cobwebs out. easy.
That is a GREAT setup you have. Love the controllers mounted strategically and at the main ingress/egress to the shop.
Going to share this with a couple people who I'm sure would like to do something similar.
Nicely done, Sir! Very well thought out. That bandsaw works a lot faster than I imagined.
Keith, I am very much impressed with your compressed air system. I have never seen such a well designed and built air system in a small shop. When I worked at the Dodge plant in Mishawaka I had operational responsibility for our 1100 hp air system and for operational reliability we had to do all the things which you incorporated in yours such as tees in place of couplings, air taps on the top of the main air line, adequately sized main air line and tees for terminating drops with the tee outlet pointing down which assists in removing moisture. Good Job! I also like the use of steel piping.
Excellent piping system. A loop is the best way to go for running air through a shop or manufacturing plant.
And I agree, the galvanized pipe looks so much better than plastic.
Great system! Project satisfies Smith’s First Rule: “Any project that didn’t require at least three trips to the hardware store probably wasn’t worth doing.”
VERY impressive system. I put a loop around my shop also. It really helps keep the moisture under control.
Awesome compressor shed!
Very nice setup!!!
I agree, air in the shop is vital.
Only thing I would do is put ball valves at the drop so if you need to change the quick disconnect to another type you dont need to empty the lines completely.
Good idea.
@@hilltopmachineworks2131 No need ,can isolate whole shop from the air tanks outside. Good setup, have cursed before where pipeline has no union jounts. Usually inaccessable, rusted solid.
Complex system, thanks for walking through the entire set up.
Very nice Keith. Saved as a template for my own future shop.
I would put air filters at every drop. There is a chance that the galvinised coating on the inside will flake off and it is abrasive so it's not good for air cylinders.
It looks great though
Wow. When I piped my shop I also did galvanized pipe...but wow...I love the attention to detail.
Only change I would make is moving the pressure regulator out of the line in the shed. If you are running more than one item at a time it is much easier to regulate the pressure at the tool end with the tool on. That is especially true with things like blast cabinets as they take a lot of high pressure air and needing to have someone holding the valve open while you adjust the pressure in the shed is a pain.
Always enjoy spending half an hour in the shop with you.
Keith, VERY nice air compressor set up. Great work!
Eric
Great job on that air setup!!!
Looks good Keith. And, I agree with your blue pipe aesthetics reluctance. A suggestion, In South Georgia, you may want to consider ball valves to drain those drops.
Another job well done.
The correct Southern description of your set-up is "Snazzy". Well done , sir.
You can never have to many drops. If you go through & put in some overhead hose reels you'll never regret it. In his latter years my father put in 4 overhead reels in our shop. It's made it so nice, we can have the end of a hose anywhere in the whole work area of the shop within seconds & then put back up in seconds instead of tripping over hoses. He went with 3 25ft reels & one 50ft reel that will reach 30ft outside.
First class piping job!
That looks fantastic. I live in south Alabama and you are right about keeping air dry. It is a challenge.
Keith, to each his own. Build your shop the way you want to. My father-in-law's body shop was plumbed with galvanized air lines. He plumbed it in the '50s, and they were still working when he sold his shop in the late '80s. Praying you have no leaks.
That is an awesome setup - I'm sure you will enjoy it.
Wow! The best air system I’ve seen, short of professional body shop paint booths!
Well done.
Wow. That's quite an extensive system. When you were showing us the drops at the beginning of the video, I kept saying to myself that you should have put in a drain at each drop. Now I understand why you didn't need to! Nice!
Several decades ago, a shop needed an "Import" tech as children of customers that had cars repaired grew up and had Honda's, Toyota's etc. 42 years of this shop used every trick found in Popular Mechanics. His 120 gallon, two stage compressor sat on top of the bathroom. He routed copper pipe to the toilet from behind. A simple typed note, taped to the wall with shipping tape that kept it new, said; "Empty Each Night." Open the valve and the condensation flowed into the bowl. Sometimes the simple things in life work the best! DK, retired auto tech. Happy holidays, Dec 21, 2022.
Many years ago when I installed air lines we had to use black iron pipe, had to use tees not couplings and crosses not tees. The owner of the company had a real thing about galvanized pipe. Looks like you will have a great air system for a very long time. Great video!!
Boy oh boy, that looks great! I was sold on the blue stuff, but seeing that changes my mind. I'm going to be plumbing an air system into my shop (hopefully) this summer.
it looks great
Great set-up 👍🏻
With all that pipework you have also increased your air-volume-capacity very significantly.
Very nice well thought out system. Thanks for sharing.
Great installation!
Hi, this is a very well planned complete air supply system for your shop, like the outside room for the compressor and it fits the shop like a glove. Theres very little other satisfactions like a man walk into his own created shop and do something when he wants.
very very good job..thanks for your time
Great job on the piping, dryers, and electrical installation. Especially the control next to your exit door. My wife tells me often at night, "you left the compressor on again"!!
Top notch work.. I definitely wouldn't say it's overkill I'd say you are prepared and planned a perfect execution of the layout
You don't mess around! Class setup.
I actually stood up and applauded you! I have watched your shop build from the very beginning with extreme interest. Apparently you have dealt with the issues of a poor air system before and simply decided 'NEVER AGAIN'. That was money well spent and you will never regret it. You have my heartiest congratulations. Anybody that thinks this is overkill or wasteful has never been to south Georgia in the summer (humidity).
Art
Looks like you did it up right. With that refrigerated air dryer you should have what we call at the plant "Instrument Air" quality dry air with a dew point of about 35 degrees F. That should reduce to a minimum any corrosion of the galvanized pipe. The one negative of galvanized pipe used in compressed air system is that the zinc will corrode due to the moisture in the air and sluff off in small granuals. You shouldn't experience that problem. You have also addressed some of that issue with the top exit of the piping at the drops. Good Job!!
it was a good call using the galvanised pipe for your shop air makes it look more industrial and not out of place :-)
Imagine having some of that heavy iron he collects bump into that blue plastic stuff. It would squish it like a pancake. The galvanized will be a lot more durable.
That compressor setup/system is impressive - that air is going to be as dry as the Sahara desert! Thanks for the video Keith.
Just cooler :P
Surprising fact, driest air on earth is actually Antarctica. As Kieth mentioned hot air has more moisture holding capacity, so the cold air in the artic has less ability to hold moisture to begin with, and then it's so cold the moisture freezes out of the air. Hence why he has two cooling systems for the air and not heaters.
@@DracoOmnia True. Antarctica is also a desert.
Do everything you can, moisture still persists. The goal is to minimize it as much as possible. At my work we have one machine alone that has 122 pneumatic cylinders, it is a constant battle keeping them clear of water. We have a rotary compressor with a pre-cooler, two water seperators before a chiller, another water seperator and FLR at each machine.
The Whiskey Gunner .I know that Antarctica's drier but I was looking for a simile for dryness and "dry as Antarctica" doesn't sound as good as "dry as the Sahara". I could have gone for "dry as a bone" or "dry as a m*slim wedding"!
You can also switch your gear off by hooking the shops lighting circuit up so when you leave and turn the lights out all your other circuits go dead.
THANK YOU...for sharing. Fantastic air system you have there Mr. Keith, I like it a lot, thanks for showing it. "Haters" and "you're not doing that right" are just jealous and don't have a pot to piss in. Keep up the good work I have enjoyed your videos for many years.
Keith I am a retired Pipefitter and I have 1 thing to say "Great Job".
yeah the fact he knows and uses unions means he has worked on a lot of piped systems. So many plumbers now a days refuse to install them. When I had well installed, the plumber refused to install unions on each side of the pump.
Thanks for sharing your methodology and design factors Keith, I am moving soon and will have to finish out the shop space at the new house right from the studs and rafters. It's not a huge shop, nor do we have the same humidity issues here in Alberta, but I want to put in a decent air system and it's good to get ideas from you, Stan Zinkoski, and Steve Summers on air systems.
VERY, VERY Impressed Keith, ... 50 years of not having all those tricks, my lines are badly calcified, and hoists go very slow...Great job !!
Looks good Keith, was gonna ask about water filter seperators but you covered that RE: bleed of valve thanks Bud.
That is an awesome air system!!