A good friend of mine from Cody, WY. who has passed onto a higher camp… build my 30 gal. “Stubby” barrel wood stove in 1986. I build a grate for the bottom and toss in a few shovels if gravel to keep the bottom from burning out… she has been my base camp stove for 38 years. I do have an ammo can stove I use for decent hike (under 20 miles) hot hot tent/tarp camping… simple and it works… you just have to feed it with 8” long and 2-3 inch diameter sticks all night. We have ran the gauntlet on foldable stoves over my 45 years of packing and hunting. Nothing beats a good base camp stove. The rest… use, abuse and replace as needed. Maintain a roll of wire. Good video sir.
The problem with the medium sized stove is the poor design and craftmanship. All you had to do was turn that can around and put the door in the other end instead of using the latch end. Also, your door needs to be larger than the opening. Your smokestack needs to be a smaller diameter pipe. So on and so on. Please take this as constructive criticism. Good luck with your future builds.
I’m all for constructive criticism. I know the stove pipe was too big. I said it filming, but must have edited it out. I made all these with items I had in the shop, that included the 4” pipe. I have a 2 1/2 now, and will revisit it. As for putting the door on the other side, this box isn’t hinged, so it’s the same on the other side. Making it air tight ie, making the door bigger would help. I really don’t like the size and am not going to put a ton of time in that particular stove because it doesn’t suit my particular needs. I will be doing a part 2 and will address this stuff, thanks for the input.
I'll take that 50 cal can because it fits in the pack. Great for small hooch. Not really a problem to keep it going every 2 hours. Two pipes and two elbows not much to add to a 30lb pack. Especially when it is so essential to have in the cold.
I'm thinkin I could salvage the burners from a BBQ for the heat element. I was kinda thinkin with both propane and pellet I could probably use a 1" vent pipe instead of 3" stove pipe
1” might be a bit small, 2.5 to 3, at least for the pellet, most propane heaters have a forced air exhaust to prevent co2 poisoning. You would at least want an intake and exhaust pipe that go outside so no gas stays in the living area in case it back drafts
I’ve watched his videos, which showed me the closed system. I usually tent camp and have tried to adapt the ideas to this, but not making it weigh a ton
Love the big one. I think you said it was a 20mm rocket can, but I can’t find that style anywhere. Can you give anymore details to help find that specific can?
It is a can I just happen to find at a surplus store. I have tried to find it since with no luck. There are other big styles that would be similar, or maybe a rabbit hole Google search might come up with something. The surplus store I go to gets random stuff and hopefully would get them again
I was thinking of building an ammo can wood stove. Looking at your builds gives me some ideas of how I want to do one and what size of ammo can I want to use. I know there's a mortar can that is similar to the 40mm can but it's tall and the lid just pops off. If I use that one I can get a heavy duty hinge and make that whole lid into a door that lifts up while the can sits on it's side. I got all kinds of ideas I want to run with, lol. Thanks for the video and the tips. Stay safe bud 👍🇺🇲
@@bjaminf113 To be honest I never even got around to doing it. With everything going on, I ended up using my ammo cans to store caches and stuff just in case and collected more items for security and survival. I also changed how I make shelters and such, been using tarps a lot more especially the mylar tarps, not the blankets but the tarps in conjunction with a decent fire and I've had good luck with it so far. Plus my old lady got me a buddy heater and it works awesome, great for campers and such.
The 20mm rocket can stove is my favorite by far. It’s the heaviest, but sturdiest and longest burning. It holds the biggest logs, therefore less wood cutting.
I have a bunch of ammo cans and have been looking for protects to use them I am thinking putting a door in the top would be the best so you feed it like a old cook stove. I would put a small door on the front so you can still rake the cools easily but it wouldn’t need to be huge and you could leave the front handle in tack
My only concern with a top door, is the amount of smoke that would escape each time you open the door. The doors on the front leak bad enough. Depending where you use the stove it could fill up a small space quickly. Proper airflow, dry wood, etc would have to be a priority to keep smoke to a minimum. If it worked, a top load would be easier to load and keep full. Sounds like an interesting build to test
I have 1 over engineered 50cal ammo can stove. It has a mica window on the side. I use a 3"x6foot rollout titanium stovepipe. The legs fold up, the poker breaks down ane everything fits inside the stove for transport. Just suggest a grate or lifted bottom so the bottom doesnt burnout and dump your fire inside the tent while youre sleeping.
Find an area close to your vehicle. Worse case scenario, go home. It’s not as scary as it seems, just stay dry and layer clothes, sleeping bags etc. using a hot tent and stove can be a false sense of security. If the stove won’t stay going make sure you can stay warm without it. Lots of winter camping vids out there with good info
Clayton: I agree with you wholeheartedly about winter camping. I’ve never really bothered to take in a stove with me, other than something with which I could cook. But then again, I’m a person who likes to stay in a hammock you’re around when I’m camping. But lately I’ve been rethinking that. After all, above the tree line and up in the hills, there just aren’t trees in which to hang a hammock. That’s a pretty serious limitation. I just have a good arctic sleeping bag, and don’t even think about a stove. But I’m a bit sick of limiting myself to the tree line. So now there’s a really good reason to get back into a tent, and reconsider that whole stove idea. Your idea about using the rolled steel for a stove pipe/chimney is nothing short of genius. It solves a problem I’ve been considering for a little while. By way of giving back, and in response to the disappointment in your voice as you discuss your 20 mm rocket and 50 Cal boxes, I did have a couple of ideas to offer. Hopefully they’re not an imposition, as they are offered from the perpective of respect and gratitude. My understanding is that the formula for the size of your stove pipe should be about 5-10% of the volume of the stove body. Now that might be exactly what you’ve got going on, and only an illusion from the camera angle or something, but especially the small boxes look like they have really big pipes/chimneys. So those would of necessity have to belt out a whole lot of heat in a really short period of time. If you were able to find another 40 mm can (or felt like changing around the ones you have), and I got the impression that you would like to, if you were to mount the chimney at the front end of the box so that you could have the door in the back end, then the locking mechanism shouldn’t be interfering with the door. You didn’t mention whether or not you put baffles in your stoves. We saw inside the first one, which was the antique, but not so much far enough into the other stoves to see if there was a baffle there to reflect some of the heat back and slow down the loss of heat out the chimney. You probably have it done, but just in case I’m gonna throw that in there. The other thing that I wonder about, is if you’ve tried setting the fires in your stove from a top:down perspective. You know…where you set your stove up, but then put your kindling and tinder on top, and light that. Those fires tend to take a whole lot longer to burn down. It might give you a whole night’s rest. And right now, I’m experimenting with a bit of a different set up to see if I can’t get a little more time out of a burn, by using a set up that I think is called a Norwegian match or Norwegian log. It’s just basically a log that’s cut to the right size for your stove, if it’s standing upright as if you’re about to split it. You cut it into sections, like long thin pieces of cake, and then cut the points off the pieces, and use that to make kindling. Those take longer to burn as well, so that you don’t have to be up restocking the stove as often. And if you have the fire itself towards the front of the stove, then it’s gonna radiate out quite a bit more heat through the stove body before it hits the baffle and then the flu in the chimney. It might also offer more secondary burn because of the placement relative to the chimney. But this is just theoretical, and still in the experimental phase from my perspective. Of course it’s likely that you’ve already tried those things, but I’ll have a look around on your channel to see if you’ve already offered up ideas and experiments on those concepts. Thanks again for your nice little video here. It’s exactly the information I set out to find, as I’m hoping to make myself an ammo box tent stove, and it’s my first time around. And thank you for the encouragement about building one as well. :-) Happy camping.
Thanks for this response, I appreciate someone who puts some thought into a comment, and doesn’t just criticize. I said in my video while making it that I was just using material I had on hand, but it got edited out in the final cut. The stove pipe pipe I used was comically to large for the sized stoves I have, and that plays a huge roll in the burn length etc. that said though, even if you could double the burn time with a smaller stove pipe, it still is under par for my liking. I do baffle all of my stoves which extends the heat output, but doesn’t affect the burn time very much. I have since caved in and use a titanium stove that folds up nicely and has a stove pipe that rolls up and is under 3” in diameter. It doesn’t burn long, but is much more fun to carry. When I’m on shorter mileage trips, I still like the big stove for the longer burn. I have learned of the Norwegian log, using my Biolite wood stove, I considered it a Swedish torch, but same principle. I have never tried it in a horizontal stove. I think in principle it is a sound idea, the only setback I can see is having to burn the fire completely out to reload it, tight again. The charred logs and ash inside affect how the wood loads into the stove, and the stove is really hot to touch while trying to reload. I have burned myself many times trying to balance split wood on partially burned wood, while trying not to smoke myself out of my tent, and burn down all my gear. It is certainly different playing in the shop, with tools and almost perfect conditions, than out in the field. Of course it goes without say that everyone has different needs, or expectations and what works for me may not work for someone else, I just really enjoy trying out new things, and ways of doing them, even if they don’t work out. Thanks again for the comment and best wishes on finding your favorite stove!
@@Clayonthetrail : Well that is a pleasant surprise, to learn that you’ve gotten a titanium one and enjoying it! Congratulations on another option that makes at least some part of your life a little easier when you go outside. That’s no small thing. The idea of something that folds flat is just intoxicating, especially if it’s lightweight. But your words about your oldest stove are making that feel a lot less attractive. Mostly because of the draught at the hinges. So of course, I’m wondering if that can be minimized with a lightweight frame composed of angles that would serve to include some of the gaps. I’m not surprised you tried so many of these other things. It’s obvious from looking at your stoves in the video that a lot of very considered thought went into them, and that no effort was spared in getting the workmanship just right. It’s not always easy to work with Improvised Supplies, but you still turned out a nice quality product. There was one suggestion that I didn’t offer, but you probably have it covered in your new titanium stove. Stoves with windows in the sides don’t tend to work the same way as those without. I guess the window frame adds support. And the comfort factor is probably worth having to clean the window on a regular basis. You’re probably right about the Norwegian Or Swedish firelog/match. Once that stove is loaded up, with the bare minimum draught happening, A person like a nice bit more time out of it. My experimentation right now is happening with a Biolite as well, preparatory to finding or making the tent stove of my dreams. Lol. Do you mind if I ask what your findings are with that technique? You know, it’s funny but I think at least 75% of the fun of getting the kit right is figuring out the problems to personalize it. Lol Thanks again for your response and for the tutorial. You’ve provided a lot of answers here.
I learned with my Biolite, that a section of a branch about a 1/4 or 3/8 “ smaller in diameter than the chamber, cut to length, and then split in 6-8 pieces, kept in the original shape. Place the branch in the chamber, and it will spread out slightly. Light a fire on top, and it will burn down, just as you described. This is the longest burn I have had with this stove. The problem again, is it has to burn all out to reload it, if the food isn’t cooked during the first burn, you get to start over. My titanium stove is a little more airtight than the old steel one, but the connection at the stove pipe is a little wonky. The ammo can stoves are definitely more rugged. I also agree that making and tweaking these are as, or more fun than using them!
@@Clayonthetrail : That’s a good point. About the amount of time it takes to cook something relative to the amount of burn time you get out of the fuel, I’ve been experimenting with my food lately. So if I make a batch of chilli or something nice like that, I weigh up the food, and then put so much of it in the dehydration unit and let it run for the night. Assuming it’s dry, weigh it again. Then when I want the food later, whether at home or outside, I had just a little bit more than that much water back to it and put it on the stove. In fewer than 10 minutes, it’s like I just finished cooking and simmering it for a few hours on the stove. It’s not a perfect solution by any stretch, but at least the food always gets cooked in one go. I think the most delightful part is that there Is still lots left to think through. Thanks again. I’ll check back from time to time, looking forward to the tweaks that you work out too.
Hi, @Claytononthetrail; I was looking for something else and came up on this thread that we had going. Seems like it might be a good time to check in and see what’s new. You mentioned about splitting a log several ways and doing the Swedish torch sort of thing with it, to get the most time out of it, and I agree. What I have Noticed that I’m doing, is when the fire gets so low, I just have another one ready to go and dump the Biolite out, either in water or sand, put some members in the middle of the new, Swedish, torches, and pop that right into the bucket again. It’s either that, or be willing to be sticking twigs in all evening. I guess that’s not so bad, for day hiking or even in the evenings outside the tent, but I’m definitely down with making a new one. i’m hoping to make one that I can fold down, but also put a baffle and a mica window in, for more complete combustion that means getting up less often to refuel; and also to minimize the warpage while it’s in use. i’ve got the basic plan, and hope to go pick up the materials today. So course I’m wondering if you’ve had any new ideas on the subject, Or if you’ve given up on making your own stoves, or using steel ones completely. I don’t want to go around, trying to reinvent the wheel when somebody else is already put the thought in experimentation into it. I look forward to hearing about your thoughts and ideas, And of course, that would include observations and thoughts relative to the new stove you’ve been using for a year or so.. 😊
Great video! I searched this exactly!! You mentioned Temps you've camped in.. have you ever camped in Arizona in the middle of summer? Hotter days 115+? It can be great and fun and enjoyable. Let me know if you want to try!
Heat is my enemy, anything over 85 better have water involved, like me sitting in it. I’ve desert camped before, when I was younger, cook all day🥵 and freeze🥶 all night! I do love the desert in bloom though
The small stove with a correct size flue would warm for maybe an hour on wood. They are just not big enough to hold enough fuel unless you go to a fuel like wood pellets with a hopper
I'm just about to build one from a 40mm can, design will be a bit different tho, a bit heavier because I'll line the inside with 8mm soapstone to maintain heat. I'm not going to hike any longer distance with it so the extra weight won't be a problem. And i think I got a solution to the handle/clamp holding the top. -anyway, thank you for the video, it really made me think twice of the design:)
@@daphneraven6745 I honestly don't know if those will hold heat for long periods of time, give it a try tho:) Soapstone is very common in stoves and fireplaces here in sweden because of the heat resistance and ability to store heat for a long time. You can by them online in all kinds of dimensions at a reasonable price online.
@@coconutfleetsleeper5717 : it’s possible to get it here, and the Inuit people use it to make kuluks, as well as Art. It makes sense that it would be used In fireplaces, given those properties. I wonder why they don’t use it here. Thank you for getting back to me. We have talc Very close to my place, so I can’t help but wonder if that’s an option for use for the same thing, since there are so many properties in common between the two stones. You know, if it does a really good job, the weight of a few extra tiles might not really be much of a sacrifice on a hike. Particularly in the winter. That kind of comfort food will be worth that sacrifice.
@@daphneraven6745 thats funny, I bought a big block, about 50kg some years ago after seeing the inuit art online, got really inspired to carve some sculptures in the material myself. I had about 7kg left wich I shaped in to two thin long tiles that fits perfectly in the ammo crate:) weighs about 3,2kg. I definitely think you should try the talc stone if you can source it locally, I never worked it myself, but it seem to have similar properties. However, i think some natural talc stone can contain asbestos so you might want to read some more on it before you start to shape it or breathe in any of that stone dust..
@@coconutfleetsleeper5717 : Oh I’m so glad you knew that and decided to share! Thank you very, very much! I will do my research before putting it into the unit! Have you had a chance to give your soapstone-lined stove its’ first workout yet?
Instead of grinding the handle off, why not turn it upside down and use the hinged lid as an access to remove the ashes? The bottom, now on the top, could be used to cook on.
Love that surplus store up in Shelley. I take every opportunity/excuse to stop by there. No more really decent surplus stores left along the Wasatch front any more. At least not like there used to be. Nice stoves btw.
The smaller pipe does allow a longer burn for sure. I made mine with thing I had in my shop. The smallest stove with a 4”pipe is almost comical, but even withe a 2 1/2 pipe would be a ridiculous short burn
This is awesome love your stoves! I made a stove about the size of your middle one! Its been great. I put a damper plate on and I noticed was able to control my burn so burn time would last longer! I was curious if you put a damper plate on yours or have tried it?
I put a plate in all my stoves so the smoke has to travel around to the pipe, and then my pipe has a damper in it. It’s the only way to control the heat, and burn time
I generally shovel out my tent spot, lay green boughs around the entry to keep the mud down, and put wet wood or rocks under the stove as a barrier from scorching the ground
@@Clayonthetrail so you shovel all of the snow down to the ground from underneath your tents footprint? Thanks for the info. Seeing the stove sizes was helpful
Will McCall: i’m from up north, and I’ve camped out in February with a lot of feet of snow, and on ice as well. Even if you don’t put a stove inside your tent, you will end up with an icy floor under your tent. If you’re camping outside under those conditions, the usual thing to do is to shovel yourself out a footprint, and then when you set your tent up, usually you have a little ditch scraped in the last of the snow so that any condensation or other moisture moves away from your tentage, and once the fly goes on your tent, usually you shovel some of the snow over the edges of the fly. That’s how you insulate the place a little better. If you’re gonna have a stove going, you need to put something underneath it. You can’t have a stove or even just an outside fire going on top of the snow, because eventually it melts the snow and your fire burns down into it. It’ll put an outside fire out. A warm stove inside the tent will do the same thing, and that whole situation is likely cause condensation in the tent as well, which will cause you to get hypothermic. It’s super important there to have at least some legs and a board or rocks underneath your stove, preferably on the ground. If you have to be camped out on the ice, it’s really important to keep an eye out for your stove. No kidding.
I want to make an ammo can stove for a travel trailer. I want to line it with ceramic fibreboard so it will last longer, with an afterburner to reduce pollution. I want to have air intake of outside air into the bottom of the stove. I’m trying to combine the best ideas of several creators to build something effective, safe & long-lasting.
That is an ambitious build, but totally doable. I always run a shelf between the burn chamber and the chimney pipe to help draw the exhaust. If you run the fresh air intake across the bottom up the back to the edge of the shelf so that it will be super heated when you inject it into the stove it will act as an afterburner or secondary burn.
@@Clayonthetrail i was actually thinking of having 2 intakes (gasp)- 1 to enter towards the front (for startup); 1 that will be drawn up the back (behind a steel “wall”) & injected near the top, both with dampers to control air flow.
@@yourekittenme.I think that will work well. I usually just crack the door during startup, which can leak smoke, and inside a camper wouldn’t be “fresh” air
Why put the door on the handle side?...my small ammo can had the handle on the side with locking mechanism, so I placed my door on the hinge size... with a heat plate 1/2 inch below the lid on the inside it creates a gasifier inside.... I get 3 hours of burn time with 70 F in my 4 person tent with 0 to 30 F outside temp ...2 inch diameter duct and it fits inside for transport...2 inch duct is plenty with no smoke backing up inside the stove..
I have never tried charcoal. I have burned pellets, and coal, so I’m not sure how long charcoal would burn. It seems plausible, so when I get a chance I’ll try some tests.
So, u have been around wood burners all my life. I'm 50 years old. I built one of these, and for the life of me.....u can't get it to stay burning. As soon as I close the door, it goes out and just smokes. I am confused. Any ideas?
You must have plenty of air going in and out. Closing the damper too much , or the flue will kill the fire fast, unless it’s very well established. Make sure you have at least 3 - 1/2 inch holes that are adjustable for air going in, and don’t adjust the pipe flue till it’s burned down some coals, and is going good on it’s own. Even with this I have to crack the door open for the first ten or so minutes of the burn depending on humidity and dryness of the wood
Yes, I made the builds with items I already had around the shop. Using a smaller stack would prolong the burn. It’s still a small stove though, and it would prolong the burn by minutes, not hours.
@@Clayonthetrailwow you must have gotten really exhausted answering the same question it doesn't seem people really read the comments before they comment which I find funny because I enjoy the comments just as much as the videos most of the time anyways great video bro much love!
@@DetroitFettyghost the same question over and over gets old. I thought of doing a part 2 and answering it once and for all, but I’m not sure it would help😂
40 mill seems nice for a tiny cabin. add a hopper for pellets and your golden. Fat 50 ammo box with pellet hopper is what i'll be making for a camper trailer. 2 hour burn time minimum. Bigger hopper longer burn. Even has a looking glass so you can see the flames and everything packs down inside for compactness. Check out Slim Potato Head's build if you haven't already.
I’ve been watching potato head slim, and I like his stove for a camper, to haul pellets to the forest for a camp surrounded by trees seems silly. I would look into the pellet hopper for my shop. I have used a rocket mass heater before and like them. Wanted to convert it to pellets, I just never did. Maybe a future project...
I was thinking about doing an ammo stove. Kind of thinking something bigger than 50mm. I have winter camping! I can't afford titanium. What part of Wyoming do you live in. I'm from Buffalo.
Why do most people use the end of the ammo can where the handle is at to put the wood in? Why not make the door to put the wood in on the end where the hinges are at?
Yes comically big, I built it with items I have on hand. With a smaller pipe I may extend the burn time to a couple hours, but still not the 5-6 hours I was looking for. May look at a propane or pellet conversion, but it’s a lot to carry on a sled with skis
Thank you for sharing. I have an 8` x 10` tent but I don`t know if I want to cut up my new 50 cal. ammo can or not. Aside from the burn time do you think it would heat it just fine? Also wouldn`t a smaller diameter pipe like 2 or 2 1/2 " retain heat better and possibly burn longer? I would value your opinion. Thank you again.
8 x 10 is a lot of area to heat up, and you would run the small ammo can hard, and I don’t think it would keep up. The smaller stove may do better with a smaller pipe, most of the titanium stoves run a 2.4 inch pipe and do well. Even most smaller hot tents run a 8x7x15 ( 850 cubic inch) stove and have half or less the area of a wall tent. A 50 can is 6x7x12 (504 cubic inch). It also depends on your air temp, it might keep a tent warm at 40 degrees, wouldn’t stand a chance at 0
As far as ammo box, the 20 mm box is best by far, size and sturdiness, especially for a bigger tent. When I had a 10x12 wall tent I ran a foldable pack stove that was (about) 10x12x20
Why not trying to achieve something with wood pellets? A small store compartment where you can fill up with pellets outside the burner and then with a screw feed the stove thrue a pipe.
I use my stove winter camping in a hot tent, where wood fuel is everywhere. I don’t want to carry the extra weight. If I were using it in a shop or camper, pellets would be perfect.
Kevin Humphrey: That was my impression as well. I wonder if it’s possible to put a door in the side of one of those boxes. If a person loaded the wood from the side, then it wouldn’t mess with the ends or the handles for the lid either. Such a shame to have a person’s favourite stove essentially ruined for the want of a different set up.
Your ammo can stove. You mentioned the handle issue. Every can I have seen built. The wood door goes on the hinge side. That way your handle is not compromised.
All of these stoves are very stable, but I have one stove that has an angle iron base that the stove sits in, with its own legs. Way heavier duty, but way heavier
I specifically wanted a compact, titanium tent stove of the box type, and concluded that the Seek Outside Cub Stove was almost perfect. The original stove top had a stove pipe aperture of 3.125", which I considered to be excessive in such a small firebox (6" H x 6" W x 9" L) so I requested that the stove top be replaced with that from their Cub U-Turn Stove, which had a 2.5" stove pipe aperture. I bought a sheet of titanium expanded mesh and made a grate for use with smokeless charcoal briquettes. I replaced the original damper with a titanium one from Lite Outdoors as I didn't like the original collar. My stove with a 9' roll up stove pipe weight around two pounds.
I since have purchased a titanium stove with a 2.5 titanium pipe. It’s much nicer to carry, but small, and still has its flaws. I’ve had issues with the collar holding the pipe in place the bigger ammo can stoves are definitely sturdier, but less fun to carry
@@Clayonthetrail yeah i suppose the door would need a recess to hold the rope and allow the door to close and seal, but if the door has vents i gusee it would b pointless
It just helps it vent more. My big stove has a curved door. I backed up all the straight portions of the door but not the curved parts. It would also make it harder to close the door, and you would end up pushing the stove around, screwing up the stove pipe and jack
I have seen ammo can rocket stoves, and I have made several rocket stoves out of bricks, buckets and cans, just never put the two together. I want a stove that will burn for hours, and while rockets stoves are crazy efficient, they need fed often.
I’m not monetized so I can’t pick ads, that’s all on UA-cam. As for the stove, I don’t read a script, so sometimes I screw up. I hope my point still came across.
A good friend of mine from Cody, WY. who has passed onto a higher camp… build my 30 gal. “Stubby” barrel wood stove in 1986. I build a grate for the bottom and toss in a few shovels if gravel to keep the bottom from burning out… she has been my base camp stove for 38 years. I do have an ammo can stove I use for decent hike (under 20 miles) hot hot tent/tarp camping… simple and it works… you just have to feed it with 8” long and 2-3 inch diameter sticks all night. We have ran the gauntlet on foldable stoves over my 45 years of packing and hunting. Nothing beats a good base camp stove. The rest… use, abuse and replace as needed. Maintain a roll of wire. Good video sir.
You can stack rocks along the sides of the stove like bricks. The rocks heat and extend your temp time.
I usually put rocks under it. It protects the ground, and put heat out for hours after the fire dies
The problem with the medium sized stove is the poor design and craftmanship. All you had to do was turn that can around and put the door in the other end instead of using the latch end. Also, your door needs to be larger than the opening. Your smokestack needs to be a smaller diameter pipe. So on and so on. Please take this as constructive criticism. Good luck with your future builds.
I’m all for constructive criticism. I know the stove pipe was too big. I said it filming, but must have edited it out. I made all these with items I had in the shop, that included the 4” pipe. I have a 2 1/2 now, and will revisit it. As for putting the door on the other side, this box isn’t hinged, so it’s the same on the other side. Making it air tight ie, making the door bigger would help. I really don’t like the size and am not going to put a ton of time in that particular stove because it doesn’t suit my particular needs. I will be doing a part 2 and will address this stuff, thanks for the input.
The medium sized can looked like it had a latch on both sides.
Best video I have found yet addressing my needs. Large ammo cans aren't used a lot I guess. Thanks for the information. GOD BLESS
Thank you for watching!
I'll take that 50 cal can because it fits in the pack. Great for small hooch. Not really a problem to keep it going every 2 hours. Two pipes and two elbows not much to add to a 30lb pack. Especially when it is so essential to have in the cold.
Good commentary and critique on all designs. Thanks!!
Thanks for watching!
Hey! I watched this video before I thought about making an ammo can stove! Thanks!
Hope it helps
Once you said your stove had 12 sides. I kinda figured you don't know wtf you're talking about. Thanks for sharing your experience tho
12 edges.
Excellent video. I made one out of 40mm. Its great!!!! I'm going to make 2 more. One will be propane, the other to burn wood pellets.
Sweet. I’ve considered a pellet version, but propane would be awesome
I'm thinkin I could salvage the burners from a BBQ for the heat element.
I was kinda thinkin with both propane and pellet I could probably use a 1" vent pipe instead of 3" stove pipe
1” might be a bit small, 2.5 to 3, at least for the pellet, most propane heaters have a forced air exhaust to prevent co2 poisoning. You would at least want an intake and exhaust pipe that go outside so no gas stays in the living area in case it back drafts
ua-cam.com/video/-g9HBMk5mzg/v-deo.html
I’ve watched his videos, which showed me the closed system. I usually tent camp and have tried to adapt the ideas to this, but not making it weigh a ton
Love the big one. I think you said it was a 20mm rocket can, but I can’t find that style anywhere. Can you give anymore details to help find that specific can?
It is a can I just happen to find at a surplus store. I have tried to find it since with no luck. There are other big styles that would be similar, or maybe a rabbit hole Google search might come up with something. The surplus store I go to gets random stuff and hopefully would get them again
I was thinking of building an ammo can wood stove. Looking at your builds gives me some ideas of how I want to do one and what size of ammo can I want to use. I know there's a mortar can that is similar to the 40mm can but it's tall and the lid just pops off. If I use that one I can get a heavy duty hinge and make that whole lid into a door that lifts up while the can sits on it's side. I got all kinds of ideas I want to run with, lol. Thanks for the video and the tips. Stay safe bud 👍🇺🇲
You are only limited by your imagination when it comes to these builds
I'd be very interested in seeing this of you could post up your finished build!
@@bjaminf113
To be honest I never even got around to doing it. With everything going on, I ended up using my ammo cans to store caches and stuff just in case and collected more items for security and survival. I also changed how I make shelters and such, been using tarps a lot more especially the mylar tarps, not the blankets but the tarps in conjunction with a decent fire and I've had good luck with it so far. Plus my old lady got me a buddy heater and it works awesome, great for campers and such.
@@toddk1377 🤣 🤣 I'm using a buddy heater too and was looking at an alternative for a closed-in (mostly) carport.
Thank you for the video! I'm curious, if you were on the show "Alone" and could bring one of these, which one would you take?
The 20mm rocket can stove is my favorite by far. It’s the heaviest, but sturdiest and longest burning. It holds the biggest logs, therefore less wood cutting.
I have a bunch of ammo cans and have been looking for protects to use them I am thinking putting a door in the top would be the best so you feed it like a old cook stove. I would put a small door on the front so you can still rake the cools easily but it wouldn’t need to be huge and you could leave the front handle in tack
My only concern with a top door, is the amount of smoke that would escape each time you open the door. The doors on the front leak bad enough. Depending where you use the stove it could fill up a small space quickly. Proper airflow, dry wood, etc would have to be a priority to keep smoke to a minimum. If it worked, a top load would be easier to load and keep full. Sounds like an interesting build to test
@@Clayonthetrail yeah definitely would have to build a recessed lip all the way around with door gasket to keep it from leaking
I have 1 over engineered 50cal ammo can stove. It has a mica window on the side. I use a 3"x6foot rollout titanium stovepipe. The legs fold up, the poker breaks down ane everything fits inside the stove for transport. Just suggest a grate or lifted bottom so the bottom doesnt burnout and dump your fire inside the tent while youre sleeping.
That is a good idea.
@@Clayonthetrail whatever keeps you warm and safe. Im aleays upgrading and making my kit better.
ive never been camping i want to try winter camping but a little apprehensive
Find an area close to your vehicle. Worse case scenario, go home. It’s not as scary as it seems, just stay dry and layer clothes, sleeping bags etc. using a hot tent and stove can be a false sense of security. If the stove won’t stay going make sure you can stay warm without it. Lots of winter camping vids out there with good info
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Clayton: I agree with you wholeheartedly about winter camping. I’ve never really bothered to take in a stove with me, other than something with which I could cook. But then again, I’m a person who likes to stay in a hammock you’re around when I’m camping. But lately I’ve been rethinking that. After all, above the tree line and up in the hills, there just aren’t trees in which to hang a hammock. That’s a pretty serious limitation. I just have a good arctic sleeping bag, and don’t even think about a stove. But I’m a bit sick of limiting myself to the tree line. So now there’s a really good reason to get back into a tent, and reconsider that whole stove idea.
Your idea about using the rolled steel for a stove pipe/chimney is nothing short of genius. It solves a problem I’ve been considering for a little while.
By way of giving back, and in response to the disappointment in your voice as you discuss your 20 mm rocket and 50 Cal boxes, I did have a couple of ideas to offer. Hopefully they’re not an imposition, as they are offered from the perpective of respect and gratitude.
My understanding is that the formula for the size of your stove pipe should be about 5-10% of the volume of the stove body. Now that might be exactly what you’ve got going on, and only an illusion from the camera angle or something, but especially the small boxes look like they have really big pipes/chimneys. So those would of necessity have to belt out a whole lot of heat in a really short period of time.
If you were able to find another 40 mm can (or felt like changing around the ones you have), and I got the impression that you would like to, if you were to mount the chimney at the front end of the box so that you could have the door in the back end, then the locking mechanism shouldn’t be interfering with the door.
You didn’t mention whether or not you put baffles in your stoves. We saw inside the first one, which was the antique, but not so much far enough into the other stoves to see if there was a baffle there to reflect some of the heat back and slow down the loss of heat out the chimney. You probably have it done, but just in case I’m gonna throw that in there.
The other thing that I wonder about, is if you’ve tried setting the fires in your stove from a top:down perspective. You know…where you set your stove up, but then put your kindling and tinder on top, and light that. Those fires tend to take a whole lot longer to burn down. It might give you a whole night’s rest. And right now, I’m experimenting with a bit of a different set up to see if I can’t get a little more time out of a burn, by using a set up that I think is called a Norwegian match or Norwegian log. It’s just basically a log that’s cut to the right size for your stove, if it’s standing upright as if you’re about to split it. You cut it into sections, like long thin pieces of cake, and then cut the points off the pieces, and use that to make kindling. Those take longer to burn as well, so that you don’t have to be up restocking the stove as often. And if you have the fire itself towards the front of the stove, then it’s gonna radiate out quite a bit more heat through the stove body before it hits the baffle and then the flu in the chimney. It might also offer more secondary burn because of the placement relative to the chimney. But this is just theoretical, and still in the experimental phase from my perspective.
Of course it’s likely that you’ve already tried those things, but I’ll have a look around on your channel to see if you’ve already offered up ideas and experiments on those concepts.
Thanks again for your nice little video here. It’s exactly the information I set out to find, as I’m hoping to make myself an ammo box tent stove, and it’s my first time around. And thank you for the encouragement about building one as well. :-)
Happy camping.
Thanks for this response, I appreciate someone who puts some thought into a comment, and doesn’t just criticize. I said in my video while making it that I was just using material I had on hand, but it got edited out in the final cut. The stove pipe pipe I used was comically to large for the sized stoves I have, and that plays a huge roll in the burn length etc. that said though, even if you could double the burn time with a smaller stove pipe, it still is under par for my liking. I do baffle all of my stoves which extends the heat output, but doesn’t affect the burn time very much. I have since caved in and use a titanium stove that folds up nicely and has a stove pipe that rolls up and is under 3” in diameter. It doesn’t burn long, but is much more fun to carry. When I’m on shorter mileage trips, I still like the big stove for the longer burn. I have learned of the Norwegian log, using my Biolite wood stove, I considered it a Swedish torch, but same principle. I have never tried it in a horizontal stove. I think in principle it is a sound idea, the only setback I can see is having to burn the fire completely out to reload it, tight again. The charred logs and ash inside affect how the wood loads into the stove, and the stove is really hot to touch while trying to reload. I have burned myself many times trying to balance split wood on partially burned wood, while trying not to smoke myself out of my tent, and burn down all my gear. It is certainly different playing in the shop, with tools and almost perfect conditions, than out in the field.
Of course it goes without say that everyone has different needs, or expectations and what works for me may not work for someone else, I just really enjoy trying out new things, and ways of doing them, even if they don’t work out.
Thanks again for the comment and best wishes on finding your favorite stove!
@@Clayonthetrail : Well that is a pleasant surprise, to learn that you’ve gotten a titanium one and enjoying it! Congratulations on another option that makes at least some part of your life a little easier when you go outside. That’s no small thing.
The idea of something that folds flat is just intoxicating, especially if it’s lightweight. But your words about your oldest stove are making that feel a lot less attractive. Mostly because of the draught at the hinges. So of course, I’m wondering if that can be minimized with a lightweight frame composed of angles that would serve to include some of the gaps.
I’m not surprised you tried so many of these other things. It’s obvious from looking at your stoves in the video that a lot of very considered thought went into them, and that no effort was spared in getting the workmanship just right. It’s not always easy to work with Improvised Supplies, but you still turned out a nice quality product.
There was one suggestion that I didn’t offer, but you probably have it covered in your new titanium stove. Stoves with windows in the sides don’t tend to work the same way as those without. I guess the window frame adds support. And the comfort factor is probably worth having to clean the window on a regular basis.
You’re probably right about the Norwegian Or Swedish firelog/match. Once that stove is loaded up, with the bare minimum draught happening, A person like a nice bit more time out of it. My experimentation right now is happening with a Biolite as well, preparatory to finding or making the tent stove of my dreams. Lol. Do you mind if I ask what your findings are with that technique?
You know, it’s funny but I think at least 75% of the fun of getting the kit right is figuring out the problems to personalize it. Lol
Thanks again for your response and for the tutorial. You’ve provided a lot of answers here.
I learned with my Biolite, that a section of a branch about a 1/4 or 3/8 “ smaller in diameter than the chamber, cut to length, and then split in 6-8 pieces, kept in the original shape. Place the branch in the chamber, and it will spread out slightly. Light a fire on top, and it will burn down, just as you described. This is the longest burn I have had with this stove. The problem again, is it has to burn all out to reload it, if the food isn’t cooked during the first burn, you get to start over.
My titanium stove is a little more airtight than the old steel one, but the connection at the stove pipe is a little wonky. The ammo can stoves are definitely more rugged.
I also agree that making and tweaking these are as, or more fun than using them!
@@Clayonthetrail : That’s a good point. About the amount of time it takes to cook something relative to the amount of burn time you get out of the fuel, I’ve been experimenting with my food lately. So if I make a batch of chilli or something nice like that, I weigh up the food, and then put so much of it in the dehydration unit and let it run for the night. Assuming it’s dry, weigh it again. Then when I want the food later, whether at home or outside, I had just a little bit more than that much water back to it and put it on the stove. In fewer than 10 minutes, it’s like I just finished cooking and simmering it for a few hours on the stove.
It’s not a perfect solution by any stretch, but at least the food always gets cooked in one go.
I think the most delightful part is that there Is still lots left to think through. Thanks again. I’ll check back from time to time, looking forward to the tweaks that you work out too.
Hi, @Claytononthetrail; I was looking for something else and came up on this thread that we had going. Seems like it might be a good time to check in and see what’s new.
You mentioned about splitting a log several ways and doing the Swedish torch sort of thing with it, to get the most time out of it, and I agree.
What I have Noticed that I’m doing, is when the fire gets so low, I just have another one ready to go and dump the Biolite out, either in water or sand, put some members in the middle of the new, Swedish, torches, and pop that right into the bucket again.
It’s either that, or be willing to be sticking twigs in all evening.
I guess that’s not so bad, for day hiking or even in the evenings outside the tent, but I’m definitely down with making a new one.
i’m hoping to make one that I can fold down, but also put a baffle and a mica window in, for more complete combustion that means getting up less often to refuel; and also to minimize the warpage while it’s in use. i’ve got the basic plan, and hope to go pick up the materials today.
So course I’m wondering if you’ve had any new ideas on the subject, Or if you’ve given up on making your own stoves, or using steel ones completely.
I don’t want to go around, trying to reinvent the wheel when somebody else is already put the thought in experimentation into it.
I look forward to hearing about your thoughts and ideas, And of course, that would include observations and thoughts relative to the new stove you’ve been using for a year or so.. 😊
Great video! I searched this exactly!! You mentioned Temps you've camped in.. have you ever camped in Arizona in the middle of summer? Hotter days 115+? It can be great and fun and enjoyable. Let me know if you want to try!
Heat is my enemy, anything over 85 better have water involved, like me sitting in it. I’ve desert camped before, when I was younger, cook all day🥵 and freeze🥶 all night! I do love the desert in bloom though
Lol Arizona here. August deer season in the desert is pretty brutal
@@jtmills86 : Northern Canada here. It seems to me that every season is rough in Arizona. You guys have some brutal climate.
curious on the small one, if the flu was half the size would it last longer and still warm a van?
The small stove with a correct size flue would warm for maybe an hour on wood. They are just not big enough to hold enough fuel unless you go to a fuel like wood pellets with a hopper
I'm just about to build one from a 40mm can, design will be a bit different tho, a bit heavier because I'll line the inside with 8mm soapstone to maintain heat. I'm not going to hike any longer distance with it so the extra weight won't be a problem.
And i think I got a solution to the handle/clamp holding the top.
-anyway, thank you for the video, it really made me think twice of the design:)
Coconutfleet sleeper: That’s a good idea. Do you think that talc stone would do the same trick, or perhaps thin fireproof tiles?
@@daphneraven6745 I honestly don't know if those will hold heat for long periods of time, give it a try tho:)
Soapstone is very common in stoves and fireplaces here in sweden because of the heat resistance and ability to store heat for a long time. You can by them online in all kinds of dimensions at a reasonable price online.
@@coconutfleetsleeper5717 : it’s possible to get it here, and the Inuit people use it to make kuluks, as well as Art. It makes sense that it would be used In fireplaces, given those properties. I wonder why they don’t use it here.
Thank you for getting back to me. We have talc Very close to my place, so I can’t help but wonder if that’s an option for use for the same thing, since there are so many properties in common between the two stones.
You know, if it does a really good job, the weight of a few extra tiles might not really be much of a sacrifice on a hike. Particularly in the winter. That kind of comfort food will be worth that sacrifice.
@@daphneraven6745 thats funny, I bought a big block, about 50kg some years ago after seeing the inuit art online, got really inspired to carve some sculptures in the material myself.
I had about 7kg left wich I shaped in to two thin long tiles that fits perfectly in the ammo crate:) weighs about 3,2kg.
I definitely think you should try the talc stone if you can source it locally, I never worked it myself, but it seem to have similar properties.
However, i think some natural talc stone can contain asbestos so you might want to read some more on it before you start to shape it or breathe in any of that stone dust..
@@coconutfleetsleeper5717 : Oh I’m so glad you knew that and decided to share! Thank you very, very much! I will do my research before putting it into the unit!
Have you had a chance to give your soapstone-lined stove its’ first workout yet?
Instead of grinding the handle off, why not turn it upside down and use the hinged lid as an access to remove the ashes?
The bottom, now on the top, could be used to cook on.
Nice to learn from your experiments.
Love that surplus store up in Shelley. I take every opportunity/excuse to stop by there. No more really decent surplus stores left along the Wasatch front any more. At least not like there used to be. Nice stoves btw.
Thanks for watching!
I have seen the smaller ammo can stove with a double wall 3 inch vent pipe . They say the smaller vent makes them burn a little longer.
The smaller pipe does allow a longer burn for sure. I made mine with thing I had in my shop. The smallest stove with a 4”pipe is almost comical, but even withe a 2 1/2 pipe would be a ridiculous short burn
@@Clayonthetrail The one I saw had gas hot water vent pipe .
This is awesome love your stoves! I made a stove about the size of your middle one! Its been great. I put a damper plate on and I noticed was able to control my burn so burn time would last longer! I was curious if you put a damper plate on yours or have tried it?
I put a plate in all my stoves so the smoke has to travel around to the pipe, and then my pipe has a damper in it. It’s the only way to control the heat, and burn time
Great video. If you run this bad boy in the winter on snow doesn't it just make a pond in your tent?
I generally shovel out my tent spot, lay green boughs around the entry to keep the mud down, and put wet wood or rocks under the stove as a barrier from scorching the ground
@@Clayonthetrail so you shovel all of the snow down to the ground from underneath your tents footprint? Thanks for the info. Seeing the stove sizes was helpful
Yes I shovel out the whole tent. Acts as a windbreak, and packed snow is very cold to sleep on
Will McCall: i’m from up north, and I’ve camped out in February with a lot of feet of snow, and on ice as well. Even if you don’t put a stove inside your tent, you will end up with an icy floor under your tent.
If you’re camping outside under those conditions, the usual thing to do is to shovel yourself out a footprint, and then when you set your tent up, usually you have a little ditch scraped in the last of the snow so that any condensation or other moisture moves away from your tentage, and once the fly goes on your tent, usually you shovel some of the snow over the edges of the fly. That’s how you insulate the place a little better. If you’re gonna have a stove going, you need to put something underneath it. You can’t have a stove or even just an outside fire going on top of the snow, because eventually it melts the snow and your fire burns down into it. It’ll put an outside fire out. A warm stove inside the tent will do the same thing, and that whole situation is likely cause condensation in the tent as well, which will cause you to get hypothermic. It’s super important there to have at least some legs and a board or rocks underneath your stove, preferably on the ground. If you have to be camped out on the ice, it’s really important to keep an eye out for your stove. No kidding.
I want to make an ammo can stove for a travel trailer. I want to line it with ceramic fibreboard so it will last longer, with an afterburner to reduce pollution. I want to have air intake of outside air into the bottom of the stove. I’m trying to combine the best ideas of several creators to build something effective, safe & long-lasting.
That is an ambitious build, but totally doable. I always run a shelf between the burn chamber and the chimney pipe to help draw the exhaust. If you run the fresh air intake across the bottom up the back to the edge of the shelf so that it will be super heated when you inject it into the stove it will act as an afterburner or secondary burn.
@@Clayonthetrail i was actually thinking of having 2 intakes (gasp)- 1 to enter towards the front (for startup); 1 that will be drawn up the back (behind a steel “wall”) & injected near the top, both with dampers to control air flow.
@@yourekittenme.I think that will work well. I usually just crack the door during startup, which can leak smoke, and inside a camper wouldn’t be “fresh” air
On the medium stove, couldn't you have avoided the latch issue by putting the door on the other end?
Mine is the same on both ends, it’s not hinged
Nice video man, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Good information Clay, thanks.👍
Why put the door on the handle side?...my small ammo can had the handle on the side with locking mechanism, so I placed my door on the hinge size... with a heat plate 1/2 inch below the lid on the inside it creates a gasifier inside.... I get 3 hours of burn time with 70 F in my 4 person tent with 0 to 30 F outside temp ...2 inch diameter duct and it fits inside for transport...2 inch duct is plenty with no smoke backing up inside the stove..
Do you have a pic or video on it, I’d like to see it. 2 to 3” pipe is plenty, all my existing pipe just happened to be 4”
Maybe a silly question but could you use charcoal ? It would burn a lot longer I would think.
I have never tried charcoal. I have burned pellets, and coal, so I’m not sure how long charcoal would burn. It seems plausible, so when I get a chance I’ll try some tests.
strategy, put+pile rocks around the stove for stability and heat storage.
That's the other benefit of the water tank for the first stove.
Didn't I see your shed on that movie?😱
So, u have been around wood burners all my life. I'm 50 years old. I built one of these, and for the life of me.....u can't get it to stay burning. As soon as I close the door, it goes out and just smokes. I am confused. Any ideas?
You must have plenty of air going in and out. Closing the damper too much , or the flue will kill the fire fast, unless it’s very well established. Make sure you have at least 3 - 1/2 inch holes that are adjustable for air going in, and don’t adjust the pipe flue till it’s burned down some coals, and is going good on it’s own. Even with this I have to crack the door open for the first ten or so minutes of the burn depending on humidity and dryness of the wood
Make sure you chimney pipe goes higher than the highest point of your tent cabin house etc
Thanks alot.saved me some bull shoot.
Do you think that giant smoke stack on that tiny stove might be an issue with it?
Yes, I made the builds with items I already had around the shop. Using a smaller stack would prolong the burn. It’s still a small stove though, and it would prolong the burn by minutes, not hours.
@@Clayonthetrail i don’t disagree . It just seemed un proportionate.
@@Clayonthetrailwow you must have gotten really exhausted answering the same question it doesn't seem people really read the comments before they comment which I find funny because I enjoy the comments just as much as the videos most of the time anyways great video bro much love!
@@DetroitFettyghost the same question over and over gets old. I thought of doing a part 2 and answering it once and for all, but I’m not sure it would help😂
@@Clayonthetrail 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣💯🙏🏼❤️👻
40 mill seems nice for a tiny cabin. add a hopper for pellets and your golden.
Fat 50 ammo box with pellet hopper is what i'll be making for a camper trailer. 2 hour burn time minimum. Bigger hopper longer burn. Even has a looking glass so you can see the flames and everything packs down inside for compactness. Check out Slim Potato Head's build if you haven't already.
I’ve been watching potato head slim, and I like his stove for a camper, to haul pellets to the forest for a camp surrounded by trees seems silly. I would look into the pellet hopper for my shop. I have used a rocket mass heater before and like them. Wanted to convert it to pellets, I just never did. Maybe a future project...
I was thinking about doing an ammo stove. Kind of thinking something bigger than 50mm. I have winter camping! I can't afford titanium. What part of Wyoming do you live in. I'm from Buffalo.
I’m out of Evanston, my favorite size is the 20mm
Why do most people use the end of the ammo can where the handle is at to put the wood in? Why not make the door to put the wood in on the end where the hinges are at?
The can I have has handles at both ends, no hinges. Having a hinged end would solve a lot of problems
the size of the chimney for the small stove is ridiculous big, no wonder your burn time is short?
Yes comically big, I built it with items I have on hand. With a smaller pipe I may extend the burn time to a couple hours, but still not the 5-6 hours I was looking for. May look at a propane or pellet conversion, but it’s a lot to carry on a sled with skis
Thank you for sharing. I have an 8` x 10` tent but I don`t know if I want to cut up my new 50 cal. ammo can or not. Aside from the burn time
do you think it would heat it just fine?
Also wouldn`t a smaller diameter pipe like 2 or 2 1/2 " retain heat better and possibly burn longer?
I would value your opinion.
Thank you again.
8 x 10 is a lot of area to heat up, and you would run the small ammo can hard, and I don’t think it would keep up. The smaller stove may do better with a smaller pipe, most of the titanium stoves run a 2.4 inch pipe and do well. Even most smaller hot tents run a 8x7x15 ( 850 cubic inch) stove and have half or less the area of a wall tent. A 50 can is 6x7x12 (504 cubic inch). It also depends on your air temp, it might keep a tent warm at 40 degrees, wouldn’t stand a chance at 0
@@Clayonthetrail Thank you so much for replying. So what size box would you suggest for zero degree F weather for an 8` x 10` tent?
As far as ammo box, the 20 mm box is best by far, size and sturdiness, especially for a bigger tent. When I had a 10x12 wall tent I ran a foldable pack stove that was (about) 10x12x20
@@Clayonthetrail Thank you so much sir. Your kind response is very much appreciated. I wish you every blessing God has to offer.
Good luck with your build
Why not trying to achieve something with wood pellets? A small store compartment where you can fill up with pellets outside the burner and then with a screw feed the stove thrue a pipe.
I use my stove winter camping in a hot tent, where wood fuel is everywhere. I don’t want to carry the extra weight. If I were using it in a shop or camper, pellets would be perfect.
Put the stove door on back of the stove and swap the chimney to the handle end of the stove
There are handles on both ends , this style isn’t hinged
Kevin Humphrey: That was my impression as well. I wonder if it’s possible to put a door in the side of one of those boxes. If a person loaded the wood from the side, then it wouldn’t mess with the ends or the handles for the lid either. Such a shame to have a person’s favourite stove essentially ruined for the want of a different set up.
@@daphneraven6745 But if you load from the side you either need really short pieces of wood or a really long door.
Your ammo can stove. You mentioned the handle issue. Every can I have seen built. The wood door goes on the hinge side. That way your handle is not compromised.
Mine has handles on both ends, no hinges. The other style can sounds like a way better fit as a stove, although not as big as I like personally
I want a more substantial base.
All of these stoves are very stable, but I have one stove that has an angle iron base that the stove sits in, with its own legs. Way heavier duty, but way heavier
I specifically wanted a compact, titanium tent stove of the box type, and concluded that the Seek Outside Cub Stove was almost perfect.
The original stove top had a stove pipe aperture of 3.125", which I considered to be excessive in such a small firebox (6" H x 6" W x 9" L) so I requested that the stove top be replaced with that from their Cub U-Turn Stove, which had a 2.5" stove pipe aperture.
I bought a sheet of titanium expanded mesh and made a grate for use with smokeless charcoal briquettes.
I replaced the original damper with a titanium one from Lite Outdoors as I didn't like the original collar.
My stove with a 9' roll up stove pipe weight around two pounds.
I since have purchased a titanium stove with a 2.5 titanium pipe. It’s much nicer to carry, but small, and still has its flaws. I’ve had issues with the collar holding the pipe in place the bigger ammo can stoves are definitely sturdier, but less fun to carry
Just about to make mine, waiting on the ammo can to be delivered
They work great, good luck on the build!
Did you use ny stove rope on your door?
@@baldnonce9105 not on the door, just the lid, in replacement of the rubber gasket.
@@Clayonthetrail yeah i suppose the door would need a recess to hold the rope and allow the door to close and seal, but if the door has vents i gusee it would b pointless
It just helps it vent more. My big stove has a curved door. I backed up all the straight portions of the door but not the curved parts. It would also make it harder to close the door, and you would end up pushing the stove around, screwing up the stove pipe and jack
Rocket stove?
I have seen ammo can rocket stoves, and I have made several rocket stoves out of bricks, buckets and cans, just never put the two together. I want a stove that will burn for hours, and while rockets stoves are crazy efficient, they need fed often.
Send me the first stove lol
Sell it to me 😂
Smaller flue
Yes it would help, these builds were done with items on hand, not purchased
Way too big pipe for the small volume stove
I built it with items I had on hand. Have since used a smaller 2.5” pipe, and the little ones are still too small for my likes
I really hope you make something from me having to listen to the current Samsung ad. Great video. Awful ad
Also, regarding your fathers stove. There is 6 sides. 12 edges
I’m not monetized so I can’t pick ads, that’s all on UA-cam. As for the stove, I don’t read a script, so sometimes I screw up. I hope my point still came across.
Your exhaust pipes are to big.
They are, but I made the stove with things I had on hand. I have used smaller pipe, and the stoves are still too small for what I like.
Nimmuon
wow really you talked about them but you didnt show anything about how you made them. Boring lecture
Seemed redundant to add the build when I have separate videos on them already
Great video!
Any way I can get your email address so I can chat with you about that big ammo can stove?
It’s my channel name, all one word, at Gmaildotcom