Love it!!! Some ideas to improve the design is to add a V shaped deflector around the exhaust outlet pipe. This would make the hot gases have to go around one more obstacle before exiting the stove. Another thought is to insulate the baffle to increase temperatures. And another thought is to improve heat exchange by creating a gap between the insulation and the outside wall, and allowing the hot air from the second chamber, (above the baffle) to go into the space between insulation and outside wall metal. This would make all the walls heat exchangers! Also adding a damper to the stove pipe can help regulate burn times.
Hike Yakima Washington ⬅️ I will chime in with a spark arrester at the flue entrance, which will remain clean by the extreme temps & adding a damper on both the intake & exhaust to control the burn/temps. Once it gets too hot, it needs to be adjustable, which also conserves fuel. I am thinking that an accessory water heater via copper coil that slips over the flue pipe & can be rotated to the sides or back and into a billy-can, etc. would be quite simple. A half-height fold-down warming plate opposite the door would also be simple. To offset the weight of the warming plate, drink warming plates on the door side would suffice. A clean design & great job!...
I will weld the stove I make with plate metal just to practice welding, but I love that this is able to be made from scrap materials such as old ammo cans with simple bolt and drill design. It gives me an inspiration to make a bunch of these to give away to homeless folks, because they are light and can be easily carried and produce little smoke to irritate those nearby. Here on the West Coast of the USA we have recently had some uncharacteristic severe winter weather temperature drops and as a result a lot of tragic deaths and frostbite injury/amputations to our homeless citizens.
Hi Timothy, thank you for your comment. Yes, these stoves would be very useful for lots of people in a massive variety of situations. I imagine giving one of these to a homeless person in the winter would be absolutely priceless to them. Good luck with your building - I hope to see these stoves being made all over the world! Cheers, Chris 👍
Finally got around to making my stove yesterday to the specs you show. I used steel rivets instead of welding but everything else is pretty much the same. I did use copper for the secondary intake. Works great!!!! No smoke, just as you described. I will be installing it in my workshop in a week or so, after I make necessary accommodations for the flue and stove backing. Thanks again for your creation!!!
Christopher Barr - Random Chris No, thank you. Stoves like this are a big deal. A friend of mine that ran for Eastern Michigan University was a refugee in Eastern Africa. Items such as this a great for people like me but can be essential for people like him. Great work!
@@ColoradoCJ5 how long did it hold up? I am thinking of making one as a prepper/camping stove, so for the prepper part, I would like it to hold up for a while (my country just asked everyone living here to prepp for war, and its a damn cold country). So in case of war, I would like it to hold up more than 50 hours. More like a few thousand. Do you think that is it feasible if I mod it with vermiculite and steel sheets inside?
Great instructional video Chris! Couple ideas for the next generation build: One, add butterfly dampers in both the large (main) air intake and the exhaust, so you can control the heat better. Two, add a simple, flat, metal sheet surface to the top for cooking, somewhat oversize to accommodate a fry pan, only with a slot cut out of the middle to keep the handle functional for easy portability. Another idea I have, call it a bonus tip, is, for more permanent installations anyway, to add a large, maybe baffled, chamber in the exhaust to capture some of the heat that currently escapes up the chimney, before a second pipe section conducts the exhaust gases out of the living space. This may be a bit too much for this small type of stove, however. Over-complicating it, so to speak, and detracting from its overall simplicity and handiness.
Hi Bob, thank you very much for your thoughts. I love the idea about the slotted metal cooking surface! Extra heat release from the chimney is a great idea, but this will be dependant on the individual installation and I imagine there will be lots of different uses for these stoves. The Mk III will have a water heater option for off-grid hot water, which I believe will be very useful. Cheers! Chris 👍
Thankyou Christopher, it’s the most brilliant version of a rocket stove that I’ve seen yet! I love the smokeless part and the shape and size. I’m looking forward to seeing the 3rd version. I hope it will be even more simply built, and I’d like to see you building one from start to finish.
Straightening the pellet feed tube for stix will make it easier for feeding and if you make it out of channel steel pipe thats square or rectangular the end can be cut on the corner lines and riveted to the bottom and side of the mark lll to keep the stove rope use down to a minimum....but thats just a design i use here in the states ...hello from the east coast in Virginia...your videos are very useful from my standpoint as a poor man that comps for my peace sometimes.
A great little stove design! Chris here is my 2 cents for your next variation. Wood stoves "suck" the heat out of the room. A cool air intake helps that problem. A piece of duct work could be connected to your rocket intake with a damper to solve that problem. So one would have a rocket stove or a more efficient wood stove. All of the current tent stoves draw from the room. A door on the end of the container rather than the middle could handle longer pieces of wood. So the stove might have to be configured with the hinge on the opposite side to make that work. Good Luck
THIS VIDEO IS ALMOST 3 YEARS OLD; when will you finish with your Mark III? I'd like to suggest you use a 20mm ammo can instead of a 50 calibre ammo can. The increased capacity for wood means you won't have to wake up in the middle of the night to add wood. I've just subscribed & rang the notification bell. Put legs on the stove then add the air intake on the stove's bottom & add a damper to control the air intake volume.
Thanks Chris, I think the baffle is the secret along with the pipe line on the other side I have watched other people build a stove but so far your's takes the cake, I hope to see the video step by step great job thanks.
I'm late in responding due to being busy but thank you for the explanation Chris! I'm about to get started on my build again and this video was VERY helpful! I started posting details of my build on my website and plugged yours as well. Thanks so much!
I love that idea I was thinking about building one like that but doing it upside down so the lid of mo-kan is the bottom so that way take that off and it allowed for cleaning so much easier
Hi!!! I'm not sure if you have built your next version or not. This is awesome by the way!!! my only change would be to give up the rocket stove part in exchange for an air intake control system. the benefit to secondary burn us you can choke them down for longer burn times without all the smoke. Just my $0.02, but there may be a very valid reason you didn't do that. Very cool and Thank you for your content.
Mk 4 ... add a turbo boost, call it a Merlin ... my cabin stove just sat there, no rocket feature, it was a 'gasafirer" worked great. The dreaded downdraft can happen during high winds. Added valves "air inhibitors" controls heat out put and fuel burn time. Smaller (and fewer in number) holes in the secondary combustion injectors increases velocity and the resultant turbulence which improves combustion.
I enjoyed your video. Have you considered placing a small covered hole (maybe 1/4 inch) on the side where the secondary air intake is, so that you could insert a small metal rod to poke and manipulate the position of the wood inside without opening the main door? This could come in handy when feeding the stove through the primary air intake. The only problem with this that I could see is lining up the wall insulation with hole, you could use a tubular rivet. This would give you a clean and semi permanent alignment. Look forward to seeing the Mk III. Best of luck.
Hi there, thanks for your comment. There are lots of different options depending on the type of fuel used. If I wanted to use sticks as fuel (as used with many rocket stoves) I would just remove the primary air intake elbow and feed them in directly from the side - in which case, their position could be manipulated by moving the sticks, or as you suggested, via a metal rod through the hole. If using wood pellets as fuel the 90 degree elbow is useful for collecting gravity fed pellets and directing them into the burn chamber. I even plan on experimenting with liquid fuels which could be added once the stove has been fired up with wood... Cheers, Chris 👍
Hi Crackin2000, someone did contact me on my website regarding humanitarian use of these stoves in refugee camps. I hope that these stoves can help others to stay warm... Cheers, Chris 👍
Seems like you should try to get the intake air being released below the burning mass of wood, so that convection pulls it in even better. Perhaps the model 3 can have the copper pipe routed beneath the chicken wire that suspends the wood. Then as for the wood feed port, I think that probably takes over as the primary air intake replacing your pipe, since there would be less resistance for the air to come in that way, which is unfortunate and reduces the efficiency. So some means to re-jigger that would be beneficial. Perhaps a longer pipe (like the flue) would let you put wood in it, and then place a cap over it to block the air. Wood / sticks would then gravity feed down in to the fire box, but air would still be drawn through the pipe system.
Chris, I really like what you have done with this! It is quite efficient and I'm going to build one and then one out of a 20mm ammo can for larger areas! Thanks again, for making the How-To vdeo! Cheers!
Just had a thunk. Perhaps the stove could be mounted and secured (turnbuckles?) in a tray with legs. That way, it could be solidly mounted (say in a boat), but could also be easily removed for service or beach cooking. Like your work, cant wait for III.
Pretty neat. Suggestion for the MK3: keep the window but ditch the side door. This simplifies design....... side door not really needed since you feed it through the end. Clean-out can be accomplished through the feed port and/or opening the top. For safety, you could add a hinged cap on outside--of a flush mounted feed port. This could have a few holes in it for minimum air flow and could be propped open for feeding and max air intake. Looking foreword to your next video!
Best ideas freaking great site no side door improves this window is nice but not necessary something to get it off the floor I need a heater for my van
Great project and a nice use of an ammo tin. I found your blog and videos while researching a slightly bigger rocket stove I'm planning to build. I'm looking at adding a copper coil to the secondary burn chamber and using the thermal movement to cycle water running through it. The eventual plan is to have a cold inlet from a pool pass through the rocket stove and then return back to the pool. If I can work in a heat powered fan to be turned by the pipes returning to the pool, this would then act as an active air ram for the stove. Between you and green shorts I've got a head full of ideas, and I look forward to seeing what you have planned for future builds, my only hope is that it doesn't encourage me to start over with however far I've got by then. 😀
hi, super gnome! I’m wondering if you ever found the time to build the stove you mentioned in this comment section. If you have, I’d sure like to see the video, assuming that you made one.😊
@daphneraven6745 Yes, I did, I made it with a 25m coil of copper pipe in the upper chamber, and with a cold hose attached at one end, boiling water came out the other. Unfortunately, I wanted to use it for heating a hot tub, but discovered that you can't run hot tub chemicals through copper pipes.
THANKS CHRIS! GREAT BUILD...ENJOYABLE VIDEO. The way you built the baffle was great. Not everyone has access or knowledge of welding, so learning that cool trick on putting in the flew is cool. LOOKING FORWARD TO SEEING MACH III!
Thanks Kathryn - the Mk III is coming one day, (I've already got the design in my head), there just aren't enough hours in the day at the moment! Thanks for watching and commenting. Cheers, Chris
Very handy ! I think the handle makes it easier to carry, for a cooking area I think a handful of bolts/with nuts and maybe a washer for height put through the lid would provide a decent base for a pan or pot
You're welcome, thank you for your comment. The Mk III will be designed so no welding is required. As you say, you can easily find ways around it to build one of these. Cheers, Chris 👍
Brilliant, mate. Some great ideas in your stove Chris, I've been stuck on how to affix and secure a flue to a metal box and your clear example solved it for me. Thanks for sharing, subbed!
Hello from New Brunswick Canada, Nice looking stove. Is that a .50 Cal belt ammo can? For your Mk III: I wondering if a larger one (like 25mm belted for M242 Bushmaster) would make a better stove for heating a water and a larger space? Also for the inlet and exhaust pipes (hint in the latter) I wonder if you can readily access car exhaust pipes there. Here I could just go to our local Canadian Tire Store and pick some up. lol I missed the first stove, with the copper secondary burn tube, how did you shape it? I would like to see your MkIII build video, but couldn't find it, this one was uploaded three years ago by thelooks of things. Thanks for this one...might just have to give it a try.
Also another idea...if you could get sheets of stainless or titanium 9,10 ft long and possibly 0.03 thick .(or whatever is the appropiate thickness.) You could use pipe clamps for the form to hold its shape like the comercial camp stoves that you can buy. That would be impressive as ever. I think over there you would say brilliant as the expression goes. I know that solution has never been figured out by folks on the streets yet.
I'm going with Marsh Rat's design but had a notion to test, incorporating your pipe idea to supply fresh air from outside the van. Thus a draft won't be needed as the air for the combustion will come from outside. Thought I'd post this in case you are still monitoring this video.
Hi, @christopher_Barr: I’m looking around your channel, for the Mark III build video; it’s looking like I’m ready to start building my own, and it’s been too long since I’ve done any welding (not that I did a whole lot of it), so I’m really hoping that you’ve got a welding-free Version, as you alluded to here somewhere. no, it’s entirely possible that you don’t have it done yet, but it’s also likely that I’ve missed it here somewhere. If I just missed it, would you mind putting a reply with a link to the video for me please? And if you haven’t had a chance to make the video, but you have drawn up the plans, is that something you would share? I sure appreciate the hard work that you’ve put into this particular project, and I am more grateful that you decided to share it. Thanks very much and I hope to hear from you soon!😊
Thanks for your comment Adrian! My blog post explains this: randomchris.com/randomness/my-ammo-can-stove-homemade-wood-stove-rocket-stove-with-secondary-burn-system/ Cheers, Chris 👍
Yep! I plan on doing this myself one day. Very handy to be able to make hot water for showers from firewood you can scavenge from pretty much any anchorage. This is the reason I started building these stoves... Cheers, Chris 👍
Sorry for being a latecomer, can this be made to breakdown to fit inside the ammo can and assemble when needed. Would be great on boke camping trips but size is an issue
I was thinking of using ceramic tile instead of thin sheet of metal on the side and back to insulate it. Would that work better? There is plenty of cheap ceramic tile at the local Habitat store.
What about a tray for removing the ash? It would be nice if you could clean out the ashes without having to remove the lid. I am considering this stove design for a small interior space, with air intake and exhaust from out side.
This stove burns so efficiently that it creates very little ash - a miniscule amount in fact. If you were using one of these full time than I would estimate that you could go at least a week of constant burning without having to empty the ash. The easy way of having a quick ash-emptying procedure is to attach the ammo can lid and flue to wherever the stove is being fitted (rather than the can body). You can then use the quick-release catch on the ammo can lid to open it up, disengage the hinge, then take the bottom of the can to wherever you are putting your ash. You could have it off, emptied and back on again in about a minute. Cheers, Chris 👍
I looked at the stove for sale that you link in description area of this video. I don't see that stove being the same as the one you show in video because I don't see where it has the secondary burn feature that your stove has.
hi chris I'm building this for my 10x10 ice hut that I'm building this summer I have a 6x9 now do u think it will heat a hut up as I am a newbee for wood stoves. and what is the glass made from and where can I get it? what other options. can brazing work instead of welding? lts questions
Hey chris you should make an atattching anchor (only you woul ld need to invert the design 180') and i would love to see the window on the hinge side aswell THANK YOU FOR THE GREAT INFO
What is the insulation again?. Fiber glass? Or is asbestos involved ? Have you any info on fiber glass break down and breathing it in? Where does one get the rope rape you described ...I'm not familiar with that. Thanks again..it is great to learn new things..useful things..Bill
Hi Bill, thank you for your comment. I used Rockwool insulation. The insulation has withstood the heat very well but in all honesty I hate breathing in any kind of dust whatsoever so I would always advise anyone to avoid breathing in fibres or dust from insulation like this. Stove rope can be bought online or from any wood burner supply store - it's pretty cheap too. It is made from glass fibres so the same applies to breathing in fibres from this. Cheers, Chris 👍
Very cool Chris, psyched to see the Mk lll. Question : for the secondary burn air intake pipe opening at the left, bottom, rear corner of the box; did you use the same sealing methods that you used for the flu and rocket intake? In the video I noticed that you could easily move the intake pipe up and down as needed within the burn chamber. If it is not sealed the same and it's just a simple hole, how do you keep the loose pipe from falling down into the fire when in use?Thanks in advance for your time and I'm looking forward to future videos👍🏼👍🏼
Hi Anthony, thank you for your comment. The secondary air pipework is held in place by an 'interference fit'. Basically the hole in the ammo can is very slightly smaller than the diameter of the pipe. The pipe only went through the hole by applying force. It can still be moved by force but does not move under normal conditions, including when the stove is hot and the components are subject to differential thermal expansion. Cheers, Chris 👍
Very cool. I want to build this for my 300 cubic foot camping trailer. would either of the air intake tubes have to be plumbed to the outside? Would it still draw air the way it is suppose to if it is drawing it from the warm air inside the trailer?
Hi there, thanks for your comment. The intakes could both draw from the internal air of the trailer but to avoid CO being produced you must have an intake vent with the same or larger cross sectional area of the air intakes of the stove. Cold air would be drawn in via this vent, so it might be a good idea to locate the intake for external air as close as possible to the stove, thus avoiding a cold draft causing a nuisance. As always with any open flame device being used in an enclosed space, you should always have a working CO detector in there with you. Good luck with your build! Cheers, Chris 👍
I was thinking of using ceramic tile instead of thin sheet of metal on the side and back to insulate it. Would that work better or just as well? There is plenty of cheap ceramic tile at the local Habitat store.
Hi Chris i had been checking videos on you tube you stove is the best i like to now what size is the pipe which going around the stove for Oxygen and also it need the pipe in the back of the stove or is optional thanks for share you invention with us Johnny from New York
Hi Johnny, thank you for your comment. I used 1/2" i.d. steel water pipes for the secondary air intake but my Mk 1 used copper pipe and I'm pretty sure I'll use copper on the Mk III, as it has superior heat transfer compared to steel. The routing of the secondary air pipe along the burn chamber increases the temperature of the air progressively so that it exits the secondary air outlest holes at a very high temperature. Cheers, Chris 👍
Yes, you could use a similar design. I would have the area of the exhaust gas exits at least the same as the area of the flue. I would introduce the secondary air just below the baffle. Cheers, Chris 👍
Could you get by with just insulating the bottom to help prevent it overheating the ground or surface of your structure, then leave the other sides uninsulated? Also, have you thought of adding short legs? Either folding or detachable? GREAT JOB
Thank you for your comment George. I now have an infrared thermometer so I can test temperatures around these stoves while they are burning. The bottom of this stove is pretty cool, thanks to the double skinned bottom with 20 mm circa rockwool insulation, so there may be a smaller and simpler solution than adding legs. I will be experimenting with the above whilst developing the Mk III. Cheers, Chris 👍
Sweet!! Does the insulation on the sides lessen the stoves ability to warm say a 8 or 10 ft diameter teepee or a 100 Sq ft tent? I could see a .50 Cal box being a great one to use for your Mark III. A little bigger but not massive. Thx
Based on my experience heating a garage (and a test burn on a small boat) you would be toasty with this stove in spaces of that size. This is a small stove but it kicks out a lot of heat! With the insulation as it is the majority of the heat is released from the top and front of the stove, this would be beneficial for a boat installation. The options for these stoves are almost endless - bigger, smaller, wood pellet fed... That's why I love them so much - they can be customised to suit vastly different requirements. Cheers, Chris 👍
Agreed. I looked at several other videos yesterday as well. One or two even used a 20mm cannon she'll box. YIKES!!! Oh.... one person did mention you may want to wet sand the paint off the box first. It may release some hazardous stuff when heated. You can then repaint with a good high temp paint made for wood stoves Keep up the great work and can't wait for your next video CHEERS
Hi Chris, Are you any closer to getting the MK3 made yet?, and what size diameter flue did you use? (i bought some rope from a stove shop and the women there said i should not have a flue less than 4 inch or the thing might blow up!) seems a bit much, your thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Best Phil.
Hi Phil, I'm working on the Mk III but life is crazy busy at the moment! The initial flue section on this stove is 2.5 inches. Above this I have used 3 inch flexible piping as a flue, which worked really well, as well as 4 inch flue sections which also work really well. The smallest flue you generally come across is 4 inches but that doesn't mean your stove will blow up if you use a smaller flue :-D Cheers, Chris 👍
Hi Edward, thank you for your comment. I did do a test with it and it was like a sauna in there! In all honesty there is actually very limited room on our current boat to install this stove permanently but, if we were to be using the boat in the winter, and we didn't have electricity, it would be an absolute godsend. I could easily install it in the companionway step area when required and then run some flexible ducting up and out through a heatproof washboard section. I am also really looking forward to making hot water via a thermosyphon on the flue. This means boiling hot showers when at anchor (firewood can be picked up for free pretty much anywhere...) We have electricity included with our berth so it's just easier for us to use a small electric heater, which easily heats the boat very quickly. However, you can't beat the ambiance of seeing a natural flame and hearing burnin (instead of the hum of an electric fan) so I plan on making an even smaller wood burner that people can make for small boats in the future... Cheers, Chris 👍
The new smaller version is going to be quite far down the line I'm afraid - I've already commited to making the Mk III so I'll have to see that through first. As long as you're not in a rush, I hope to come up with an small space wood burner that will be useful for small boats... Cheers, Chris
I like your stove, but I am worried about the use of galvanized steel. I believe that galvanized steel can be toxic when heated. I could be wrong, but I wouldn’t wont you to get sick. Thanks for the video and have a great day.
Hi there, thanks you for your comment. This is a great idea and is something I've been thinking about for a while already. I am looking at finding a way for the Mk III to burn gravity fed wood pellets. It would also be possible to have a gravity feed option for sticks and I'm trying to find an easy way of integrating both options so that you can switch between the two.... Cheers, Chris 👍
While watching this video, I also had the idea to introduce a mechanical(non-electrical) perhaps spring assisted pellet feed to drop pellets slowly into the rocket feed tube. That way I can set it to run continuously throughout the day or night while I am sleeping and not have to feed it continuously or have the fire die and the house go cold ( which is a big drawback of rocket stoves, especially if the rocket stove isnt heating up a thermal mass to save all that heat produced ). I will start thinking up a design and I look forward to seeing yours when you unveil it.
The Mk III will have a gravity feed pellet option. I have some ideas on how to achive this and will be working through designs as and when I can. Cheers, Chris 👍
I solo hiked and camped in the Canadian Rockies when I was 19 and I definitely wish I had a small wood burning stove with me during that trip. I took a 2 season sleeping bag (in October!) and spent several nights freezing my **** off inside my tent... 😂
Agreed (as per the disclaimer at the bottom of the video description). The first burns of the stove should be done outside in a well-ventilated area and combustion gases should not be inhaled. Cheers, Chris 👍
Kevin Sluder , galvanized metal is a zink coating so it doesn't rust, it can be and does burn off in a well ventilated area (outside). After a few long burns you should clean and hi temp paint.
I m thinking pallet wood will make a great fuel for one of these stoves. Free unlimited wood supply. Its usually hardwood and easy to cut up with a skill saw. Us a cheap carbide blade to cut through the occasional nail.
Hi Arthur, any wood you can get for free is a bonus. (I have even scavenged firewood from a beach and then swam back to the boat whilst holding the wood above my head so that I could have a barbecue on board!) Pallets are readily available in many places so are a perfect source of firewood. Cheers, Chris
Watch this stove burn with zero smoke: ua-cam.com/video/Vd7RFwyQxrI/v-deo.html
Awesome!! This is genius! I am waiting for the version 111, I would like to see a ash clean out drawer and also buy one from you when finished. :)
What is the burn time on one wood fill Christopher?
Love it!!! Some ideas to improve the design is to add a V shaped deflector around the exhaust outlet pipe. This would make the hot gases have to go around one more obstacle before exiting the stove. Another thought is to insulate the baffle to increase temperatures. And another thought is to improve heat exchange by creating a gap between the insulation and the outside wall, and allowing the hot air from the second chamber, (above the baffle) to go into the space between insulation and outside wall metal. This would make all the walls heat exchangers! Also adding a damper to the stove pipe can help regulate burn times.
Hike Yakima Washington ⬅️ I will chime in with a spark arrester at the flue entrance, which will remain clean by the extreme temps & adding a damper on both the intake & exhaust to control the burn/temps. Once it gets too hot, it needs to be adjustable, which also conserves fuel.
I am thinking that an accessory water heater via copper coil that slips over the flue pipe & can be rotated to the sides or back and into a billy-can, etc. would be quite simple. A half-height fold-down warming plate opposite the door would also be simple. To offset the weight of the warming plate, drink warming plates on the door side would suffice.
A clean design & great job!...
I will weld the stove I make with plate metal just to practice welding, but I love that this is able to be made from scrap materials such as old ammo cans with simple bolt and drill design. It gives me an inspiration to make a bunch of these to give away to homeless folks, because they are light and can be easily carried and produce little smoke to irritate those nearby. Here on the West Coast of the USA we have recently had some uncharacteristic severe winter weather temperature drops and as a result a lot of tragic deaths and frostbite injury/amputations to our homeless citizens.
Hi Timothy, thank you for your comment. Yes, these stoves would be very useful for lots of people in a massive variety of situations. I imagine giving one of these to a homeless person in the winter would be absolutely priceless to them. Good luck with your building - I hope to see these stoves being made all over the world! Cheers, Chris 👍
Looks like something any motivated individual could build. Simple build on complex thoughts. Thanks for the video!
Finally got around to making my stove yesterday to the specs you show. I used steel rivets instead of welding but everything else is pretty much the same. I did use copper for the secondary intake. Works great!!!! No smoke, just as you described. I will be installing it in my workshop in a week or so, after I make necessary accommodations for the flue and stove backing. Thanks again for your creation!!!
You're welcome Scott, I'm sure your workshop will be much more inviting in the winter with your stove in there. Cheers! Chris 👍
Christopher Barr - Random Chris
No, thank you. Stoves like this are a big deal. A friend of mine that ran for Eastern Michigan University was a refugee in Eastern Africa. Items such as this a great for people like me but can be essential for people like him. Great work!
@@ColoradoCJ5 how long did it hold up? I am thinking of making one as a prepper/camping stove, so for the prepper part, I would like it to hold up for a while (my country just asked everyone living here to prepp for war, and its a damn cold country). So in case of war, I would like it to hold up more than 50 hours. More like a few thousand. Do you think that is it feasible if I mod it with vermiculite and steel sheets inside?
Almost 2 years; I'm still waiting to see what you've come up with for Mk III
Great instructional video Chris!
Couple ideas for the next generation build:
One, add butterfly dampers in both the large (main) air intake and the exhaust, so you can control the heat better.
Two, add a simple, flat, metal sheet surface to the top for cooking, somewhat oversize to accommodate a fry pan, only with a slot cut out of the middle to keep the handle functional for easy portability.
Another idea I have, call it a bonus tip, is, for more permanent installations anyway, to add a large, maybe baffled, chamber in the exhaust to capture some of the heat that currently escapes up the chimney, before a second pipe section conducts the exhaust gases out of the living space. This may be a bit too much for this small type of stove, however. Over-complicating it, so to speak, and detracting from its overall simplicity and handiness.
Hi Bob, thank you very much for your thoughts. I love the idea about the slotted metal cooking surface! Extra heat release from the chimney is a great idea, but this will be dependant on the individual installation and I imagine there will be lots of different uses for these stoves. The Mk III will have a water heater option for off-grid hot water, which I believe will be very useful. Cheers! Chris 👍
Thankyou Christopher, it’s the most brilliant version of a rocket stove that I’ve seen yet! I love the smokeless part and the shape and size. I’m looking forward to seeing the 3rd version. I hope it will be even more simply built, and I’d like to see you building one from start to finish.
Straightening the pellet feed tube for stix will make it easier for feeding and if you make it out of channel steel pipe thats square or rectangular the end can be cut on the corner lines and riveted to the bottom and side of the mark lll to keep the stove rope use down to a minimum....but thats just a design i use here in the states ...hello from the east coast in Virginia...your videos are very useful from my standpoint as a poor man that comps for my peace sometimes.
A great little stove design!
Chris here is my 2 cents for your next variation.
Wood stoves "suck" the heat out of the room. A cool air intake helps that problem. A piece of duct work could be connected to your rocket intake with a damper to solve that problem. So one would have a rocket stove or a more efficient wood stove. All of the current tent stoves draw from the room.
A door on the end of the container rather than the middle could handle longer pieces of wood. So the stove might have to be configured with the hinge on the opposite side to make that work.
Good Luck
your idea for the air intake pipe was great. was having trouble with the draw but I installed what you did and it does phenomenal now. thank you sir.
Thank you for your comment Chad. My pleasure - congratulations on your build! 👍
Malakai Cole - 2 weeks into the Trump Shutdown, more like Make America Wait Again!
THIS VIDEO IS ALMOST 3 YEARS OLD; when will you finish with your Mark III?
I'd like to suggest you use a 20mm ammo can instead of a 50 calibre ammo can. The increased capacity for wood means you won't have to wake up in the middle of the night to add wood.
I've just subscribed & rang the notification bell.
Put legs on the stove then add the air intake on the stove's bottom & add a damper to control the air intake volume.
oh waw putting legs what a revolutionnary idea! Any more orders, Sir? Am i free to go, Sir?
Thanks Chris, I think the baffle is the secret along with the pipe line on the other side I have watched other people build a stove but so far your's takes the cake, I hope to see the video step by step great job thanks.
Good tech, well done. Simple yet effective. Great for camping heat.
Thank you for your comment. Cheers, Chris 👍
Can't wait for the secret stove and the mach three ,thank you for taking time to share your great ideas 👍
This the best article on ammo can rocket stove. Thanks, I can't wait to make one. I don't have the ability to weld at the moment, so this is perfect,
Hi there, thank you for your comment. The Mk III won't have any welding at all so hopefully it will be perfect for you. Cheers, Chris 👍
This is my favourite build on youtube. Well thought out and very well broken down to help someone make and understand the workings of it. Thank you :)
Thank you Jon. :-) Chris 👍
I'm late in responding due to being busy but thank you for the explanation Chris! I'm about to get started on my build again and this video was VERY helpful! I started posting details of my build on my website and plugged yours as well. Thanks so much!
I love that idea I was thinking about building one like that but doing it upside down so the lid of mo-kan is the bottom so that way take that off and it allowed for cleaning so much easier
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Hi!!! I'm not sure if you have built your next version or not. This is awesome by the way!!! my only change would be to give up the rocket stove part in exchange for an air intake control system. the benefit to secondary burn us you can choke them down for longer burn times without all the smoke. Just my $0.02, but there may be a very valid reason you didn't do that. Very cool and Thank you for your content.
Cheers Jason, suggestions are always welcome. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
Mk 4 ... add a turbo boost, call it a Merlin ... my cabin stove just sat there, no rocket feature, it was a 'gasafirer" worked great. The dreaded downdraft can happen during high winds. Added valves "air inhibitors" controls heat out put and fuel burn time. Smaller (and fewer in number) holes in the secondary combustion injectors increases velocity and the resultant turbulence which improves combustion.
I enjoyed your video. Have you considered placing a small covered hole (maybe 1/4 inch) on the side where the secondary air intake is, so that you could insert a small metal rod to poke and manipulate the position of the wood inside without opening the main door? This could come in handy when feeding the stove through the primary air intake. The only problem with this that I could see is lining up the wall insulation with hole, you could use a tubular rivet. This would give you a clean and semi permanent alignment. Look forward to seeing the Mk III. Best of luck.
Hi there, thanks for your comment. There are lots of different options depending on the type of fuel used. If I wanted to use sticks as fuel (as used with many rocket stoves) I would just remove the primary air intake elbow and feed them in directly from the side - in which case, their position could be manipulated by moving the sticks, or as you suggested, via a metal rod through the hole. If using wood pellets as fuel the 90 degree elbow is useful for collecting gravity fed pellets and directing them into the burn chamber. I even plan on experimenting with liquid fuels which could be added once the stove has been fired up with wood... Cheers, Chris 👍
this video may actually save lives. im gonna build one
Hi Crackin2000, someone did contact me on my website regarding humanitarian use of these stoves in refugee camps. I hope that these stoves can help others to stay warm... Cheers, Chris 👍
Seems like you should try to get the intake air being released below the burning mass of wood, so that convection pulls it in even better. Perhaps the model 3 can have the copper pipe routed beneath the chicken wire that suspends the wood.
Then as for the wood feed port, I think that probably takes over as the primary air intake replacing your pipe, since there would be less resistance for the air to come in that way, which is unfortunate and reduces the efficiency. So some means to re-jigger that would be beneficial. Perhaps a longer pipe (like the flue) would let you put wood in it, and then place a cap over it to block the air. Wood / sticks would then gravity feed down in to the fire box, but air would still be drawn through the pipe system.
Okayyyy! Where is MKIII? Good job man
Chris, I really like what you have done with this! It is quite efficient and I'm going to build one and then one out of a 20mm ammo can for larger areas! Thanks again, for making the How-To vdeo! Cheers!
Just had a thunk.
Perhaps the stove could be mounted and secured (turnbuckles?) in a tray with legs. That way, it could be solidly mounted (say in a boat), but could also be easily removed for service or beach cooking.
Like your work, cant wait for III.
Thank you for your suggestion Kieran 👍
Beautiful job i want to make one for teardrop camper
Pretty neat. Suggestion for the MK3: keep the window but ditch the side door. This simplifies design....... side door not really needed since you feed it through the end. Clean-out can be accomplished through the feed port and/or opening the top. For safety, you could add a hinged cap on outside--of a flush mounted feed port. This could have a few holes in it for minimum air flow and could be propped open for feeding and max air intake. Looking foreword to your next video!
Thank you for your comment and suggestions. Cheers, Chris 👍
Best ideas freaking great site no side door improves this window is nice but not necessary something to get it off the floor I need a heater for my van
I just made one just like this thanks to your video. would this thing last for daily use?
Great project and a nice use of an ammo tin. I found your blog and videos while researching a slightly bigger rocket stove I'm planning to build.
I'm looking at adding a copper coil to the secondary burn chamber and using the thermal movement to cycle water running through it.
The eventual plan is to have a cold inlet from a pool pass through the rocket stove and then return back to the pool. If I can work in a heat powered fan to be turned by the pipes returning to the pool, this would then act as an active air ram for the stove.
Between you and green shorts I've got a head full of ideas, and I look forward to seeing what you have planned for future builds, my only hope is that it doesn't encourage me to start over with however far I've got by then. 😀
hi, super gnome! I’m wondering if you ever found the time to build the stove you mentioned in this comment section.
If you have, I’d sure like to see the video, assuming that you made one.😊
@daphneraven6745 Yes, I did, I made it with a 25m coil of copper pipe in the upper chamber, and with a cold hose attached at one end, boiling water came out the other. Unfortunately, I wanted to use it for heating a hot tub, but discovered that you can't run hot tub chemicals through copper pipes.
Very nice Chris, I'll be making one soon and installing it in my camper van
Hi Curtis, thank you for your comment. Good luck with your build, I'm sure it will be a great addition to your camper van! Cheers, Chris 👍
Awesome thanks for giving construction details! I.I'm in alaska thats gonna helpful just gonna add my spin!
THANKS CHRIS! GREAT BUILD...ENJOYABLE VIDEO. The way you built the baffle was great. Not everyone has access or knowledge of welding, so learning that cool trick on putting in the flew is cool. LOOKING FORWARD TO SEEING MACH III!
Thanks Kathryn - the Mk III is coming one day, (I've already got the design in my head), there just aren't enough hours in the day at the moment! Thanks for watching and commenting. Cheers, Chris
Very handy ! I think the handle makes it easier to carry, for a cooking area I think a handful of bolts/with nuts and maybe a washer for height put through the lid would provide a decent base for a pan or pot
Thank you for your comment Alsatful. Cheers, Chris 👍
Thanks for this. I don't think I could do the welding bit, but I'm sure I could work around that - great stuff!
You're welcome, thank you for your comment. The Mk III will be designed so no welding is required. As you say, you can easily find ways around it to build one of these. Cheers, Chris 👍
Awesome idea. Love the secondary burn chamber. Good job!👍
Cheers Donnie 👍
Excellent Chris! Can't wait to see Mk III.
Brilliant, mate. Some great ideas in your stove Chris, I've been stuck on how to affix and secure a flue to a metal box and your clear example solved it for me. Thanks for sharing, subbed!
Cheers Baz, welcome aboard! 👍
How is the mica sheet working out ? Can you show us how to cut and drill holes in it please ?
Well thought out. Controlling the combustion cycle to it's maximum. However I have seen possible improvements. Nice watch by the way...
Great help. Best info of amo can on youtube.
Hope to see you make a million.
Excellent video. I am very impressed with the secondary burn engineering.
Can't wait to see the MK III when it comes out.
Thank you Jeffrey, the Mk III is in the pipeline... Stay tuned! Cheers, Chris 👍
Hello from New Brunswick Canada, Nice looking stove. Is that a .50 Cal belt ammo can? For your Mk III: I wondering if a larger one (like 25mm belted for M242 Bushmaster) would make a better stove for heating a water and a larger space? Also for the inlet and exhaust pipes (hint in the latter) I wonder if you can readily access car exhaust pipes there. Here I could just go to our local Canadian Tire Store and pick some up. lol
I missed the first stove, with the copper secondary burn tube, how did you shape it?
I would like to see your MkIII build video, but couldn't find it, this one was uploaded three years ago by thelooks of things.
Thanks for this one...might just have to give it a try.
Flip the can over and have the lid as a way to dump ash and the bottom will be a good cook surface
Also another idea...if you could get sheets of stainless or titanium 9,10 ft long and possibly 0.03 thick .(or whatever is the appropiate thickness.) You could use pipe clamps for the form to hold its shape like the comercial camp stoves that you can buy. That would be impressive as ever. I think over there you would say brilliant as the expression goes.
I know that solution has never been figured out by folks on the streets yet.
VERY nice design!!! Can't wait to see MK3
Thank you 👍
love the stove. can't wait for the MkIII
Cheers Roger 👍
I'm going with Marsh Rat's design but had a notion to test, incorporating your pipe idea to supply fresh air from outside the van. Thus a draft won't be needed as the air for the combustion will come from outside. Thought I'd post this in case you are still monitoring this video.
in the rocket elbow on the back, can you put a larger burn box, on top of the elbow?
Awesome Chris! What happened to the third generation Ammo Can Rocket Stove???
Make it Chris! Thank you for your video, great stuff.
It's coming one day Sergio - I just have a crazily busy life!... Thank you for watching and commenting. Cheers, Chris 👍
Great. Thank for showing the details of your Ammo Can Rocket Stove !
My pleasure! Cheers, Chris 👍
Had a old amo can was going to toss out. Tell I saw your video. Setting on pins and needles waiting for Mark 3.
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nice build, i'm still waiting for MkIII before i build mine. winter is at the door. hurry....
Loved your video brother.
Bill from IDAHO. God bless you
And Merry Christmas.
God bless you and yours William. 🙏👍
can't wait to see the smaller secret stove.
Hi, @christopher_Barr: I’m looking around your channel, for the Mark III build video; it’s looking like I’m ready to start building my own, and it’s been too long since I’ve done any welding (not that I did a whole lot of it), so I’m really hoping that you’ve got a welding-free Version, as you alluded to here somewhere.
no, it’s entirely possible that you don’t have it done yet, but it’s also likely that I’ve missed it here somewhere.
If I just missed it, would you mind putting a reply with a link to the video for me please?
And if you haven’t had a chance to make the video, but you have drawn up the plans, is that something you would share?
I sure appreciate the hard work that you’ve put into this particular project, and I am more grateful that you decided to share it.
Thanks very much and I hope to hear from you soon!😊
I need this. Oh my god. You're amazing. Never stop making videos.
What's the difference between the mark 1, 2, and 3?
Thanks for your comment Adrian! My blog post explains this: randomchris.com/randomness/my-ammo-can-stove-homemade-wood-stove-rocket-stove-with-secondary-burn-system/ Cheers, Chris 👍
@Joe mama What kind of personality does a used condom have?
Think this would work on a sailboat, maybe mounted to a bulk head (with proper spacing and heat shielding)?
Yep! I plan on doing this myself one day. Very handy to be able to make hot water for showers from firewood you can scavenge from pretty much any anchorage. This is the reason I started building these stoves... Cheers, Chris 👍
Your just brilliant... I can't wait to see the mach 3!!!
Thanks :-)
Sorry for being a latecomer, can this be made to breakdown to fit inside the ammo can and assemble when needed. Would be great on boke camping trips but size is an issue
I was thinking of using ceramic tile instead of thin sheet of metal on the side and back to insulate it. Would that work better? There is plenty of cheap ceramic tile at the local Habitat store.
The problem with the air intake at bottom of brown flue pipe is....your flue is now running too cold and will creosote-up far quicker.
What about a tray for removing the ash? It would be nice if you could clean out the ashes without having to remove the lid. I am considering this stove design for a small interior space, with air intake and exhaust from out side.
This stove burns so efficiently that it creates very little ash - a miniscule amount in fact. If you were using one of these full time than I would estimate that you could go at least a week of constant burning without having to empty the ash. The easy way of having a quick ash-emptying procedure is to attach the ammo can lid and flue to wherever the stove is being fitted (rather than the can body). You can then use the quick-release catch on the ammo can lid to open it up, disengage the hinge, then take the bottom of the can to wherever you are putting your ash. You could have it off, emptied and back on again in about a minute. Cheers, Chris 👍
U can cast aircrete small batch n us for insulation on the bottom n sides
I looked at the stove for sale that you link in description area of this video. I don't see that stove being the same as the one you show in video because I don't see where it has the secondary burn feature that your stove has.
Looking forward to the Mk III !!!
I'm working on it... I can't wait to get it out there for people - I just wish there were more hours in the day! Cheers, Chris 👍
hi chris I'm building this for my 10x10 ice hut that I'm building this summer I have a 6x9 now do u think it will heat a hut up as I am a newbee for wood stoves. and what is the glass made from and where can I get it? what other options. can brazing work instead of welding? lts questions
very informative video Chris.
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Hey chris you should make an atattching anchor (only you woul ld need to invert the design 180') and i would love to see the window on the hinge side aswell THANK YOU FOR THE GREAT INFO
Cheers Jason 👍
Awesome video great work! Liked and subscribed
What is the insulation again?. Fiber glass? Or is asbestos involved ? Have you any info on fiber glass break down and breathing it in? Where does one get the rope rape you described ...I'm not familiar with that. Thanks again..it is great to learn new things..useful things..Bill
Hi Bill, thank you for your comment. I used Rockwool insulation. The insulation has withstood the heat very well but in all honesty I hate breathing in any kind of dust whatsoever so I would always advise anyone to avoid breathing in fibres or dust from insulation like this. Stove rope can be bought online or from any wood burner supply store - it's pretty cheap too. It is made from glass fibres so the same applies to breathing in fibres from this. Cheers, Chris 👍
Very cool Chris, psyched to see the Mk lll.
Question : for the secondary burn air intake pipe opening at the left, bottom, rear corner of the box; did you use the same sealing methods that you used for the flu and rocket intake? In the video I noticed that you could easily move the intake pipe up and down as needed within the burn chamber.
If it is not sealed the same and it's just a simple hole, how do you keep the loose pipe from falling down into the fire when in use?Thanks in advance for your time and I'm looking forward to future videos👍🏼👍🏼
Hi Anthony, thank you for your comment. The secondary air pipework is held in place by an 'interference fit'. Basically the hole in the ammo can is very slightly smaller than the diameter of the pipe. The pipe only went through the hole by applying force. It can still be moved by force but does not move under normal conditions, including when the stove is hot and the components are subject to differential thermal expansion. Cheers, Chris 👍
Random Chris Thanks again Chris! Keep up the good work and videos!
Will any size Galvanized water pipe work for the second air intake? One last question, how much is the total cost if you buy everything?
Very cool. I want to build this for my 300 cubic foot camping trailer. would either of the air intake tubes have to be plumbed to the outside? Would it still draw air the way it is suppose to if it is drawing it from the warm air inside the trailer?
Hi there, thanks for your comment. The intakes could both draw from the internal air of the trailer but to avoid CO being produced you must have an intake vent with the same or larger cross sectional area of the air intakes of the stove. Cold air would be drawn in via this vent, so it might be a good idea to locate the intake for external air as close as possible to the stove, thus avoiding a cold draft causing a nuisance. As always with any open flame device being used in an enclosed space, you should always have a working CO detector in there with you. Good luck with your build! Cheers, Chris 👍
I was thinking of using ceramic tile instead of thin sheet of metal on the side and back to insulate it. Would that work better or just as well? There is plenty of cheap ceramic tile at the local Habitat store.
Do you think the Mk II will burn wood pellets and work the same?
Hi Chris i had been checking videos on you tube you stove is the best i like to now what size is the pipe which going around the stove for Oxygen and also it need the pipe in the back of the stove or is optional thanks for share you invention with us
Johnny from New York
Hi Johnny, thank you for your comment. I used 1/2" i.d. steel water pipes for the secondary air intake but my Mk 1 used copper pipe and I'm pretty sure I'll use copper on the Mk III, as it has superior heat transfer compared to steel. The routing of the secondary air pipe along the burn chamber increases the temperature of the air progressively so that it exits the secondary air outlest holes at a very high temperature. Cheers, Chris 👍
Wondering if this design could be applied to a 20mm ammo can. would the baffle and secondary air be all moved up higher? or stay down low? Thanks!
Yes, you could use a similar design. I would have the area of the exhaust gas exits at least the same as the area of the flue. I would introduce the secondary air just below the baffle. Cheers, Chris 👍
Could you get by with just insulating the bottom to help prevent it overheating the ground or surface of your structure, then leave the other sides uninsulated?
Also, have you thought of adding short legs? Either folding or detachable?
GREAT JOB
Thank you for your comment George. I now have an infrared thermometer so I can test temperatures around these stoves while they are burning. The bottom of this stove is pretty cool, thanks to the double skinned bottom with 20 mm circa rockwool insulation, so there may be a smaller and simpler solution than adding legs. I will be experimenting with the above whilst developing the Mk III. Cheers, Chris 👍
Sweet!!
Does the insulation on the sides lessen the stoves ability to warm say a 8 or 10 ft diameter teepee or a 100 Sq ft tent?
I could see a .50 Cal box being a great one to use for your Mark III. A little bigger but not massive.
Thx
Based on my experience heating a garage (and a test burn on a small boat) you would be toasty with this stove in spaces of that size. This is a small stove but it kicks out a lot of heat! With the insulation as it is the majority of the heat is released from the top and front of the stove, this would be beneficial for a boat installation. The options for these stoves are almost endless - bigger, smaller, wood pellet fed... That's why I love them so much - they can be customised to suit vastly different requirements. Cheers, Chris 👍
Agreed. I looked at several other videos yesterday as well. One or two even used a 20mm cannon she'll box. YIKES!!!
Oh.... one person did mention you may want to wet sand the paint off the box first. It may release some hazardous stuff when heated. You can then repaint with a good high temp paint made for wood stoves
Keep up the great work and can't wait for your next video
CHEERS
Hi Chris,
Are you any closer to getting the MK3 made yet?, and what size diameter flue did you use? (i bought some rope from a stove shop and the women there said i should not have a flue less than 4 inch or the thing might blow up!) seems a bit much, your thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Best Phil.
Hi Phil, I'm working on the Mk III but life is crazy busy at the moment! The initial flue section on this stove is 2.5 inches. Above this I have used 3 inch flexible piping as a flue, which worked really well, as well as 4 inch flue sections which also work really well. The smallest flue you generally come across is 4 inches but that doesn't mean your stove will blow up if you use a smaller flue :-D Cheers, Chris 👍
Would love to see Mk III video. Did you make it yet?
Hi, nice stove. You said you are not using a glass, so what material is it?
Hi Tony, it's mica. You can find out more about this stove on my website. Cheers, Chris
If you use black iron pipe instead of galvanized, you don't have to worry about poisoning yourself with burning zinc fumes.
Another great video, well done Chris. Looking forward to MK III. Did you ever get round to using the stove to heat your boat?
Hi Edward, thank you for your comment. I did do a test with it and it was like a sauna in there! In all honesty there is actually very limited room on our current boat to install this stove permanently but, if we were to be using the boat in the winter, and we didn't have electricity, it would be an absolute godsend. I could easily install it in the companionway step area when required and then run some flexible ducting up and out through a heatproof washboard section. I am also really looking forward to making hot water via a thermosyphon on the flue. This means boiling hot showers when at anchor (firewood can be picked up for free pretty much anywhere...) We have electricity included with our berth so it's just easier for us to use a small electric heater, which easily heats the boat very quickly. However, you can't beat the ambiance of seeing a natural flame and hearing burnin (instead of the hum of an electric fan) so I plan on making an even smaller wood burner that people can make for small boats in the future... Cheers, Chris 👍
That's interesting, maybe I'll put my plans for a boat stove on hold for now. Keep up the good work.
The new smaller version is going to be quite far down the line I'm afraid - I've already commited to making the Mk III so I'll have to see that through first. As long as you're not in a rush, I hope to come up with an small space wood burner that will be useful for small boats... Cheers, Chris
Suggest bigger window please, do you sell them thank you
Thanks for share your knowledge!!
+Juan Andrade You're welcome! Cheers, Chris 👍
lol. Whatever happened to the mark3? Also what function does the window door serve other then ascetics?
Hey that's pretty awesome what temperatures does to get up too
I like your stove, but I am worried about the use of galvanized steel. I believe that galvanized steel can be toxic when heated. I could be wrong, but I wouldn’t wont you to get sick. Thanks for the video and have a great day.
Chris, great ingenuity! How about adding gravity feed feature to the MkIII?
Hi there, thanks you for your comment. This is a great idea and is something I've been thinking about for a while already. I am looking at finding a way for the Mk III to burn gravity fed wood pellets. It would also be possible to have a gravity feed option for sticks and I'm trying to find an easy way of integrating both options so that you can switch between the two.... Cheers, Chris 👍
While watching this video, I also had the idea to introduce a mechanical(non-electrical) perhaps spring assisted pellet feed to drop pellets slowly into the rocket feed tube. That way I can set it to run continuously throughout the day or night while I am sleeping and not have to feed it continuously or have the fire die and the house go cold ( which is a big drawback of rocket stoves, especially if the rocket stove isnt heating up a thermal mass to save all that heat produced ). I will start thinking up a design and I look forward to seeing yours when you unveil it.
The Mk III will have a gravity feed pellet option. I have some ideas on how to achive this and will be working through designs as and when I can. Cheers, Chris 👍
very interested in the secret smaller stove, something I can carry with me when I'm hunting in the Rocky Mountains.
I solo hiked and camped in the Canadian Rockies when I was 19 and I definitely wish I had a small wood burning stove with me during that trip. I took a 2 season sleeping bag (in October!) and spent several nights freezing my **** off inside my tent... 😂
Not good to use galvanized. It can generate dangerous gases when heated. Great videos!
Agreed (as per the disclaimer at the bottom of the video description). The first burns of the stove should be done outside in a well-ventilated area and combustion gases should not be inhaled. Cheers, Chris 👍
Kevin Sluder , galvanized metal is a zink coating so it doesn't rust, it can be and does burn off in a well ventilated area (outside). After a few long burns you should clean and hi temp paint.
Just answered my own question about where to buy ammo steel box: eBay. Anywhere from $11 to $39 ! Cool !
You can get them in lots of different places - Amazon too: fave.co/2kKKPN2 Cheers, Chris 👍
You could make a hopper on that sucker and make a gravity pellet stove
I m thinking pallet wood will make a great fuel for one of these stoves. Free unlimited wood supply. Its usually hardwood and easy to cut up with a skill saw. Us a cheap carbide blade to cut through the occasional nail.
Hi Arthur, any wood you can get for free is a bonus. (I have even scavenged firewood from a beach and then swam back to the boat whilst holding the wood above my head so that I could have a barbecue on board!) Pallets are readily available in many places so are a perfect source of firewood. Cheers, Chris
Hey did you put holes in the bottom of the pipe or just the top?
yayyyy thank you for this awesome video
You're welcome, thank you for your comment. :-)
How are you going to feed sticks through a 90 degree bend?
Thank you for sharing your video and thoughts with us I subbed to your channel
Cheers James, welcome aboard 👍