My drawers are just never firmly proud enough of the face frame to push hard enough to engage the two sided tape, or even attach with the hot melt glue that I sometimes use. To overcome that I often tape a spacer block on the back of the drawer that hits the cabinet back and holds the drawer slightly proud of the face frame thus allowing the glue or tape to engage.
Once the tape has served it's clamping purpose and you've installed at least 2 of the 4 final screws diagonally, just remove the 2 screws, remove the tape, reinstall the 2 screws you previously put in, and then install the last 2 screws. Crumb catcher is now gone.
For those concerned with a "crumb catcher" gap, simply remove your angled drilled screws after screwing them all in, remove the double-sided tape, (add glue to back of drawer face if you'd like), then remount drawer face by replacing screws into their existing screw holes.
Thank you so much!! This saved us! We bought new drawers and doors for our island, (10) the rest of the rest of the kitchen has all new cabinets. It’s 9pm and we realize the old drawers don’t line up with the new panels just like you show here!! I’m casting this for my husband to watch we are going to buy the two sided tape tomorrow and drill sideways! Bless you!
Nice vid. Clear, to the point, gets the job done. My only issue is the drawer box (w/o the front) goes into the cabinet frame at about 1/32in. This means the drawer front can't reach and stick to the box. Trying to figure out how to pop the box out 1/32in so the fronts will reach and stick.
I have been struggling with this issue for days! Thank you so much! Fit the bill perfectly for me as I replaced the drawer glides on mine with soft-close glides. Of course that disrupted the placement slightly (no biggy) but the larger issue was the drawer was skewed somewhat, and the original installer just made one of the drawers fit. The drawer was actually over 1/8" off level so he installed the drawer front to appear straight from the outside. When I did the glides, and being picky as I am, I got that all straightened out - resulting in having to change the position of the drawer front. Only had my 2 hands, so this is a life-saver for me. Thanks!
Awesome tutorial and simple explanations. I have the exact cabinet and hardware that you showed. My trash can slider pulled out of the side-walls and the particle board broke where the clips attach. Fixed it all up but everything was cockeyed. This will be an easy fix for me now. Thank you!
Cool. Just struggled through my first two shaker drawer front installs on new drawers in an existing cabinet. I changed the two base cabinet doors to two, wide pullout drawers. I was careful and very lucky to somehow manage the drawer front installs ok, but it was time consuming and tedious, not to mention risky - could have ruined the drawer fronts. I have many more to do and needed a more reliable method. This fits the bill. Thanks!
Good video. I like to have my drawer hardware holes pre drilled in the drawer cover. Than I put a pocket hole screw in each hole to fasten the drawer front, pull out the drawer , install the permanent wood screws , remove the temporary pocket hole screws and install the drawer handles. This works best with 2 screw handles which is all I use.
Drill out the handle holes on the face. Line up face to false front, drill out the handle holes on false front. Glue face to false front, put handle on, clamp and secure with small screws from the back. If you don't want to use the handles for this, you can put a couple of temporary screws where the handle holes will be but don't tighten them enough for the screw head to hit the face.
I guess I'm going to have to use this method I don't like this method for when I have to remove the drawer fronts much later on for example when I go to a customer's house and I'm removing the drawer fronts in order to paint them and they were previously adhered with double sided tape it's very difficult to remove. But you have a point this seems to be the easiest way to put it on especially if there's no holes in the front for the handles which is unfortunate lol
I so wish I saw this video a decade ago. I am redoing the fronts and do not want to mess up. I honestly do not think there could be a better technique.
do you have a video that discusses removal of of old cabinet face ? I'm in the process of refacing and keeping old boxes, but cant seem to find a helpful video. Thanks!
The drawer face visibly sags on the right side, "as seen on TV". Also as the commenter below said, you can always remove the tape after the holes are drilled and then attach the drawer face the drawer with no tape in the way. In other words you can use the tape temporarily and remove it after drilling but before screwing the face on. In my experience there will always be stuff falling into every crack over time, so why have the cracks if you don;t need to? One more point is the drawers usually have screw holes pre-drilled in the front panel within the dovetail area, so the final screw heads are hidden inside the dovetail joint area, but it seems a little sketchy to pre-mount all your drawer faces ahead of assembly, in case somehow everything doesn;t line up visually when you are finished, although that is clearly how they are designed to be done, and many drawers' front panels come with the drawer faces already attached.
That’s a great idea if you have a drawer face being installed on a new drawer it is over the top of an existing or new cabinet door. I’m looking at four drawers on top of each other in a column. I have some ideas of how to do this but they are pretty awkward.
I just tried that with the tape used for putting plastic over windows... very thin and fairly sticky, but it didn't have enough "squish" and would not hold the door.
I have a question and can show pictures of this if my description sucks.. Our base cabinet drawer fronts are much taller than the drawer boxes themselves. Some are incredibly taller. They're installed with figure 8 washers/fasteners. And the drawer knobs are only through the top rail of the finished Maple drawer fronts and not through the drawer box. Anyways, Long story short from 6 years of a now 7 year old little girl cranking on pushing and aggressively pulling them six or seven drawer fronts have just released their connection and come off completely. If you could help I would very appreciative. Thank you for reading. I don't know how to reconnect them as I've filled the old screw holes in drawer box with sticks of wood and Titebond 3 . I again I pre drill a new hole in drawer box and they quite quickly release their connection with a few weeks of moderate use. I thought about roughing up the maple and just PL 400-ing the hell out of it to it's pine drawer box. I'm sure your advice is lot less goofy and extreme. Thank you for reading.
Can you please show what the inside of the screwed drawer looks like? Do the angled screws show or stick out at all? I want to try this method since I have Shaker style drawer fronts I want to install, but not sure about the angled screwing into the front. Thanks for any additional clarity.
Too much happening here. Why not align the drawer face with the .5" board spacer you used, align left and right and run a drywall screw through a pre-drilled screw hole for the handle. You can even put two screws in it, open the draw and add your 4 screw that hold the drawer face on. Once they are installed you can remove the drywall screws, run a drill bit back through those holes to clean up the hole and add your drawer pulls.
No it would not, because the inside front panel of the drawer box (the panel that the face is attached to) adds all the necessary support. The drawer handle is attached both to the face and that front panel.
@@mateuszczuba9684 the drawer-box front is NOT against the thin panel of the drawer front. There is a huge gap between the two. So...no: There is NOT any support for the handle/center panel in this installation. When the handle is pushed, the center panel of the drawer front will flex in towards the drawer box.
@@mateuszczuba9684 You "disagree" because you have not a single clue what you're talking about. I don't need to see another video. I have THIS one. And THIS one is the subject. And how it's built and EXACTLY what's going on with it is obvious to those of us with MANY years in the business. Well; those of us that pay attention anyway.
@@SomeDumUsrName You can make all assumptions you like. I'm not going to have yet another pointless wall-of-text discussion. I know from my own experience that what is done in this video works and offers plenty of support. That is my clue.
Why do the cabinets always have these weird front frame? We dont have that here in Europe..Whats the purpose? Isnt it making the drauwer size so much smaller than it would be without? I dont get the advantage of that..
Why does there need to be an advantage? Can't it just be a design choice? Like adding some warmth and character instead of your cabinets looking like they came from a car dealership or a hospital.
Yeah...somethin' DEFINITELY out of whak with the top of that cabinet box. That top rail is NOT parallel - and not even close - to the top of that drawer OR door.
My drawers are just never firmly proud enough of the face frame to push hard enough to engage the two sided tape, or even attach with the hot melt glue that I sometimes use. To overcome that I often tape a spacer block on the back of the drawer that hits the cabinet back and holds the drawer slightly proud of the face frame thus allowing the glue or tape to engage.
Once the tape has served it's clamping purpose and you've installed at least 2 of the 4 final screws diagonally, just remove the 2 screws, remove the tape, reinstall the 2 screws you previously put in, and then install the last 2 screws. Crumb catcher is now gone.
For those concerned with a "crumb catcher" gap, simply remove your angled drilled screws after screwing them all in, remove the double-sided tape, (add glue to back of drawer face if you'd like), then remount drawer face by replacing screws into their existing screw holes.
Same thoughts here
In other words don’t be lazy with the extra step
True. But I think some tape is so thin these days
DUH! Double faced tape. Genius! Thanks for simple solutions... they are ALWAYS the best.
Thank you so much!! This saved us! We bought new drawers and doors for our island, (10) the rest of the rest of the kitchen has all new cabinets. It’s 9pm and we realize the old drawers don’t line up with the new panels just like you show here!! I’m casting this for my husband to watch we are going to buy the two sided tape tomorrow and drill sideways! Bless you!
Nice vid. Clear, to the point, gets the job done.
My only issue is the drawer box (w/o the front) goes into the cabinet frame at about 1/32in. This means the drawer front can't reach and stick to the box. Trying to figure out how to pop the box out 1/32in so the fronts will reach and stick.
I have been struggling with this issue for days! Thank you so much! Fit the bill perfectly for me as I replaced the drawer glides on mine with soft-close glides. Of course that disrupted the placement slightly (no biggy) but the larger issue was the drawer was skewed somewhat, and the original installer just made one of the drawers fit. The drawer was actually over 1/8" off level so he installed the drawer front to appear straight from the outside. When I did the glides, and being picky as I am, I got that all straightened out - resulting in having to change the position of the drawer front. Only had my 2 hands, so this is a life-saver for me. Thanks!
Awesome tutorial and simple explanations. I have the exact cabinet and hardware that you showed. My trash can slider pulled out of the side-walls and the particle board broke where the clips attach. Fixed it all up but everything was cockeyed. This will be an easy fix for me now. Thank you!
I came here for drawer front installation but sir I would like to to say you have beautiful eyes. I hope that's not weird! Thank you for the help
This is the simple trick I was looking for--thank you!!!
Cool. Just struggled through my first two shaker drawer front installs on new drawers in an existing cabinet. I changed the two base cabinet doors to two, wide pullout drawers. I was careful and very lucky to somehow manage the drawer front installs ok, but it was time consuming and tedious, not to mention risky - could have ruined the drawer fronts. I have many more to do and needed a more reliable method. This fits the bill. Thanks!
That’s a neat trick. I’ve used hot glue but I think the tape is probably easier. Thanks for sharing 👍🏻
This is a very informative video. Thanks
Excellent video...thank you!
Good video. I like to have my drawer hardware holes pre drilled in the drawer cover. Than I put a pocket hole screw in each hole to fasten the drawer front, pull out the drawer , install the permanent wood screws , remove the temporary pocket hole screws and install the drawer handles. This works best with 2 screw handles which is all I use.
That was excellent thanks for the help
Yea that is a great method. Thanx!
Great job
i would suggest using a 1/4" hole thru the drawer, and washer head screw so you can adjust the drawer front.
Drill out the handle holes on the face. Line up face to false front, drill out the handle holes on false front. Glue face to false front, put handle on, clamp and secure with small screws from the back. If you don't want to use the handles for this, you can put a couple of temporary screws where the handle holes will be but don't tighten them enough for the screw head to hit the face.
I guess I'm going to have to use this method I don't like this method for when I have to remove the drawer fronts much later on for example when I go to a customer's house and I'm removing the drawer fronts in order to paint them and they were previously adhered with double sided tape it's very difficult to remove. But you have a point this seems to be the easiest way to put it on especially if there's no holes in the front for the handles which is unfortunate lol
OMG!!! double sided tape....that's genius
yup, it worked, just wish it was a bit stronger but other than that, the double-sided tape worked great.
I so wish I saw this video a decade ago. I am redoing the fronts and do not want to mess up. I honestly do not think there could be a better technique.
do you have a video that discusses removal of of old cabinet face ? I'm in the process of refacing and keeping old boxes, but cant seem to find a helpful video. Thanks!
The drawer face visibly sags on the right side, "as seen on TV". Also as the commenter below said, you can always remove the tape after the holes are drilled and then attach the drawer face the drawer with no tape in the way. In other words you can use the tape temporarily and remove it after drilling but before screwing the face on. In my experience there will always be stuff falling into every crack over time, so why have the cracks if you don;t need to? One more point is the drawers usually have screw holes pre-drilled in the front panel within the dovetail area, so the final screw heads are hidden inside the dovetail joint area, but it seems a little sketchy to pre-mount all your drawer faces ahead of assembly, in case somehow everything doesn;t line up visually when you are finished, although that is clearly how they are designed to be done, and many drawers' front panels come with the drawer faces already attached.
So if we think the double tape us thickness 2mm when put panel the will has gap my opinion
Do you have a video to show how to take it the drawer front off, I don’t have any screws on the inside. I see them underneath?
That’s a great idea if you have a drawer face being installed on a new drawer it is over the top of an existing or new cabinet door. I’m looking at four drawers on top of each other in a column. I have some ideas of how to do this but they are pretty awkward.
They do sell thinner double stick tape. Maybf nog at homf depot though
I just tried that with the tape used for putting plastic over windows... very thin and fairly sticky, but it didn't have enough "squish" and would not hold the door.
I have a question and can show pictures of this if my description sucks.. Our base cabinet drawer fronts are much taller than the drawer boxes themselves. Some are incredibly taller. They're installed with figure 8 washers/fasteners. And the drawer knobs are only through the top rail of the finished Maple drawer fronts and not through the drawer box. Anyways, Long story short from 6 years of a now 7 year old little girl cranking on pushing and aggressively pulling them six or seven drawer fronts have just released their connection and come off completely. If you could help I would very appreciative. Thank you for reading. I don't know how to reconnect them as I've filled the old screw holes in drawer box with sticks of wood and Titebond 3 . I again I pre drill a new hole in drawer box and they quite quickly release their connection with a few weeks of moderate use. I thought about roughing up the maple and just PL 400-ing the hell out of it to it's pine drawer box. I'm sure your advice is lot less goofy and extreme. Thank you for reading.
And they're overlay not inset, if that helps in it's description.
Can you please show what the inside of the screwed drawer looks like? Do the angled screws show or stick out at all? I want to try this method since I have Shaker style drawer fronts I want to install, but not sure about the angled screwing into the front. Thanks for any additional clarity.
Of course the screws will not be flush inside the drawer. Please don’t do it this way
How that fuh is that full overlay
Can you give us an exact screw size? Thank you.
I use magnets as third hand, them just remove.No crumbs Baby
Too much happening here. Why not align the drawer face with the .5" board spacer you used, align left and right and run a drywall screw through a pre-drilled screw hole for the handle. You can even put two screws in it, open the draw and add your 4 screw that hold the drawer face on. Once they are installed you can remove the drywall screws, run a drill bit back through those holes to clean up the hole and add your drawer pulls.
Simples.
How did you build the drawer face ?
Shaker style like he's working with you can use 1/2" board and 1/4" over laid on top
Is there any support for the drawer handle between the thin center material and the drawer box? Would the drawer front flex in and out under pressure?
No it would not, because the inside front panel of the drawer box (the panel that the face is attached to) adds all the necessary support. The drawer handle is attached both to the face and that front panel.
@@mateuszczuba9684 the drawer-box front is NOT against the thin panel of the drawer front. There is a huge gap between the two. So...no: There is NOT any support for the handle/center panel in this installation. When the handle is pushed, the center panel of the drawer front will flex in towards the drawer box.
@@SomeDumUsrName To this i can only say that i disagree. Unless you've watched a different video, in which case you could hook me up with a link.
@@mateuszczuba9684 You "disagree" because you have not a single clue what you're talking about. I don't need to see another video. I have THIS one. And THIS one is the subject. And how it's built and EXACTLY what's going on with it is obvious to those of us with MANY years in the business. Well; those of us that pay attention anyway.
@@SomeDumUsrName You can make all assumptions you like. I'm not going to have yet another pointless wall-of-text discussion. I know from my own experience that what is done in this video works and offers plenty of support. That is my clue.
Why do the cabinets always have these weird front frame? We dont have that here in Europe..Whats the purpose? Isnt it making the drauwer size so much smaller than it would be without?
I dont get the advantage of that..
Just a popular style in the US. Face frame vs frameless. Frameless is more popular in Europe, but seeing it more and more in the US.
@@enjoy9772 So congrats for that! I was just wondering if there is any advantage! So there is none..alright! thanks
Why does there need to be an advantage? Can't it just be a design choice? Like adding some warmth and character instead of your cabinets looking like they came from a car dealership or a hospital.
Hi
My drawer box is 19”
Should I get 18” or 20” slides?
Thanks
18
It looks crooked..not level
Yeah...somethin' DEFINITELY out of whak with the top of that cabinet box. That top rail is NOT parallel - and not even close - to the top of that drawer OR door.
@@SomeDumUsrName Noticed the same @ 3:47. The spacer sitting on the top edge of the door is not parallel to the face frame drawer opening.
To much talking not much vision of real fixings
This is the worst way I have ever seen. Keep looking on youtube. There are much better ways.