I used to put the cabinet on its back, measure the holes for the handle on the front, drill the holes for it, and use those to mark the position on the drawer. Since its on its back, its not moving around. If the drawer doesnt touch the front, i put a bit of sponge on the back, to hold it out a bit..
In a perfect world, all of the drawer boxes would be even, level and plumb where they sit. This is almost never the case. So if you use the same spacers on each box, you will inevitably have misaligned drawer fronts.
Thanks for the comment. In my case I am using a drawer slide mounting jig (Kreg) so the bottom space is always the same. The drawer boxes are made by students and therefore the depth may vary from drawer to drawer. The oversized hole used in combination with the drawer front screw will make up for and slight variations.
Very nice, why did you stop there?? now we need to know how to accurately mount our drawer pulls centered in the panel. appreciate you posting the video on drawer faces, thank you
Well, I have to say you are demonstrating the HARD way to mount drawer fronts. How I do it. 1. Mount your doors and adjust first, you are going to do this eventually so do it now. 2. Use self tapping screws, Kreg pocket hole screws work nicely, and drive them in in all 4 corners of the inside of the drawer. Let them protude about 1/8" inch. 3. Don't even think about using clamps. 4. put an appropriate spacer on top of the "door", not behind the drawer front. 5. Set the drawer front on top of the spacer. Use a straight edge to press along the side of the door high enouth enough to index the drawer front against. 6. Press the drawer front into the drawer with the protruding screws. 7. Open the drawer and realign the drawer front to the indentations and drive the screws. Your are done. FWIW I have mounted hundreds and hundreds of drawers this way. No tape measure needed.
That's exactly what I do. Well explained. Another way is to leave the screws and use double sided tape to hold the draw front in position then open draw and screw away. I prefer the method you discribe
You could if your drawer boxes are consistent depth. In my situation each drawer is made by a different person (college students) and there is some variation. I want them to experience the entire process...prepping stock to installing the final product. Thanks
Double-sided (carpet) tape works great unless you are trying to manage 26 students who have just learned about this fancy new super sticky double sided tape. We can go through a couple rolls real quick. I find I spend way to much time trying to peel tape off of places it doesn't belong. Thanks for the comment.
@@misterfee6467 My videos aren't for "smart" people like you. They are for my college students who have no cabinetmaking experience but want to improve their skills or build their own cabinets at home. I'm not "a professional shop", I work in an educational facility with people who want to know how to do things economically (that means cheap) and don't mind if their professor looks like Vince the slap chop guy as long as he is COURTEOUS and PROFESSIONAL.
Perfect video thank you ! I’m at this step currently with my first cabinet build.
I used to put the cabinet on its back, measure the holes for the handle on the front, drill the holes for it, and use those to mark the position on the drawer. Since its on its back, its not moving around. If the drawer doesnt touch the front, i put a bit of sponge on the back, to hold it out a bit..
This was a great video, thank you
In a perfect world, all of the drawer boxes would be even, level and plumb where they sit. This is almost never the case. So if you use the same spacers on each box, you will inevitably have misaligned drawer fronts.
Very true. Sometimes you have to misalign the front if the box is crooked
Thanks for the comment. In my case I am using a drawer slide mounting jig (Kreg) so the bottom space is always the same. The drawer boxes are made by students and therefore the depth may vary from drawer to drawer. The oversized hole used in combination with the drawer front screw will make up for and slight variations.
How level or plum the drawer boxes are irrelevant. You’re simply evenly aligning drawer fronts to the face frame.
Very nice, why did you stop there?? now we need to know how to accurately mount our drawer pulls centered in the panel. appreciate you posting the video on drawer faces, thank you
Thanks for the video. Really helpful.
💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼
Well, I have to say you are demonstrating the HARD way to mount drawer fronts. How I do it. 1. Mount your doors and adjust first, you are going to do this eventually so do it now. 2. Use self tapping screws, Kreg pocket hole screws work nicely, and drive them in in all 4 corners of the inside of the drawer. Let them protude about 1/8" inch. 3. Don't even think about using clamps. 4. put an appropriate spacer on top of the "door", not behind the drawer front. 5. Set the drawer front on top of the spacer. Use a straight edge to press along the side of the door high enouth enough to index the drawer front against. 6. Press the drawer front into the drawer with the protruding screws. 7. Open the drawer and realign the drawer front to the indentations and drive the screws. Your are done. FWIW I have mounted hundreds and hundreds of drawers this way. No tape measure needed.
That's exactly what I do. Well explained.
Another way is to leave the screws and use double sided tape to hold the draw front in position then open draw and screw away.
I prefer the method you discribe
Couldn't you also clamp the spacer to the top of the drawer front so it can hang without being held?
You could if your drawer boxes are consistent depth. In my situation each drawer is made by a different person (college students) and there is some variation. I want them to experience the entire process...prepping stock to installing the final product. Thanks
I’d install the door and square up the door and then set a spacer on the door double stick tape the box and stick it on
Ito much clamps, lol
Why not just use double-sided tape for alignment??
Double-sided (carpet) tape works great unless you are trying to manage 26 students who have just learned about this fancy new super sticky double sided tape. We can go through a couple rolls real quick. I find I spend way to much time trying to peel tape off of places it doesn't belong. Thanks for the comment.
Any system for mounting a drawer front that takes 20 minutes to explain is not a good system.
Please loose the microphone, it's creepy and unprofessional
Also your a professional shop make an actual jig
Lol...if I "loose" the microphone it wouldn't be near my mouth and wouldn't work. (That's sarcasm if you were wondering).
@@TheBertco see thats funny, as opposed to explaining what a wood screw is
@@misterfee6467 My videos aren't for "smart" people like you. They are for my college students who have no cabinetmaking experience but want to improve their skills or build their own cabinets at home. I'm not "a professional shop", I work in an educational facility with people who want to know how to do things economically (that means cheap) and don't mind if their professor looks like Vince the slap chop guy as long as he is COURTEOUS and PROFESSIONAL.