Let's Build a Tool Sharpener - Part 3
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- Опубліковано 5 кві 2024
- This episode on Blondihacks, I’m working on a tool sharpener! Exclusive videos, drawings, models & plans available on Patreon!
/ quinndunki
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My parents got me a little drafting table when I was a kid, with that four-link mechanism.
Lasers aren't magic, unless you attach them to sharks.
Ah.. those old fashioned ones.. at school, we had the "Gantry type" and i later bought a small one that you could clamp to a board, for A3 Size Paper.. before CAD it served me well..
I hope you accept this with the appreciation in which I give it: Every time I think of a term or operation seconds before you use/do it, I think of how much I owe you (and others) for the education you've provided while I'm being entertained. I can count on one hand the number of times I've run a mill or lathe (maybe both if you count CNC) but watching them run is just beautiful.
Well said !
I have a drillpress, a lathe and jer schmidts belt grinder and let me Tell you, I can totally relate to what you've written. What Quinn and so many others have tought me is pure madness compared to what i've learned from any other source, period.
Much love to all of them!!
Oh, yeah, IKEA toggle bolts FTW!! And, yeah, I recognized that one immediately! When I first acquired a 32-year-old VW Jetta 1.6D Mk2 I had to replace the parking brake cables; while I was adjusting the parking brake I lost one of the jam nuts, gah, and despite having a massive plethora of metric nuts I couldn't find one to fit so I dug into a box of IKEA hardware that I'd gotten from the as-is section at IKEA and found an IKEA toggle bolt that fit perfectly. I DD'd that Jetta with that IKEA toggle bolt readily visible (never got around to putting the parking brake boot back on, lol) for many years until last summer when it was totalled by a schmuck running a red light. R.I.P. Jetta with its IKEA toggle bolt.
I was wondering about the block. It's all so obvious when you see it there in context. Nice job 👍
Quinn, I started the same quest several years ago to find a full set of Metric stub length drill bits and had absolutely no luck even looking to European and Asian sources. I ended up buying them a handful at a time from McMaster-Carr and later AFT Fasteners depending on which was cheaper for a given size. I chose Norseman black oxide coated because it was the type that McMaster had the most sizes available when i began the project. (yes, I’m aware that black oxide is not optimal for aluminum but i get away with it by using WD-40 when needed) I ordered the Huot 11825 118 piece Metric combination index on eBay and it was about $60 at the time (2016?) but has now risen to a brain-numbing $177on amazon and $155 on eBay. I was required to draw and laser cut a bunch of Plexiglas spacers to strategically screw to the insides of the drill pockets to keep the stub length bits from disappearing down into the holes designed for jobber length bits. I still several years in haven’t found every single size to fill the set and have skipped some of the larger ones for reasons of economy. I’d say in 2024, getting near a complete set with this approach will cost between $700 - $1K. I also have a Norseman black and gold finish full set of jobber length that I see goes for about $400 and they are gorgeous but that’s not what was asked so…
Also, THANKS FOR YOUR AMAZING CHANNEL!
Wow- you read my mind. I was formulating this exact same plan just last night. I have the same Huot empty drill index bookmarked 😂. That’s likely what I will do as well. Buy the case, and gradually fill it with drills as I need them. I like your idea of filler plates to make the short drills fit. I’ll borrow that idea.
the only perfect martial cutting process is the this old tony karate chop
Or his one inch punch 😂
Despite your earlier lament, EDM is in fact in your shop @ 16:53 😁
Hey Quinn. I wanted to say last week how impressed I am with your water tender. You have truly done a masterful job. Even dealing with some of the challenges or mistakes, you turned into a win.
It looks amazing and you must be so proud. Looking forward to the locomotive. I'll bet that one will throw you a lot of curves but as always you will work your way through them all.
Nice job and please accept my virtual pat on the back attaboy. (OK make that "attagirl" even if that sounds kinda odd). I'm impressed and your cat's total disinterest speaks volumes.
I didn't even get all the way through the Futurama quote on my head before you called me out for it.
Beautifully done, Quinn. Now I've got to see how that block ties in to everything else. I can't figure it out just yet.
Quinn, I have been able to get EDM consistently in my shop. Often it is Fat Boy Slim. On occasion Skrillex. Oh, and fine, Daft Punk, too. Surprised this magic remains inaccessible to you.
My punk rock arse needs an occasional Fat Boy Slim to even things out.
I Do have a Wire EDM machine.. and indeed.. it's like magic, cutting Solid Carbide without even touching it..
Give ‘em the clamps, Clamps!
I'm currently taking the class in engineering school that's covering 4-bar linkages. So yes, they are useful
So reference the drill bit set, on amazon (UK) there is BAER HSSE & HSSG sets (i.e. 2 separate sets) available from 1 to 6 and 6 to 10 mm in 0.1mm increments, however I've not seen bigger than 10mm in anything less than 0.5mm. hopefully gives you a starting point though.
Another great video Quinn, thank you! I would like to add a bit of additional information, if you don't mind. What you created there, and test assembled at the end of the video, is actually TWO four-bar linkages. Starting from the clamp, the first disk counts as a bar, then two actual bars, then the disk in the center of the mechanism makes the four bars of a four-bar linkage. Then, if you start again at the center disk (the two four-bars can share a bar), you have the center disk as the first bar, two parallel bars, and then the rectangular piece you put in for mock-up purposes makes the fourth bar. So in fact, you made two four-bar linkages connected in the center!
The 4 bar linkage is the same mechanism as the old drafting machines I used in the 70s, which I preferred over later drafting machine, before CAD took over. It's a really sweet set-up.
Thanks for clearing up what that odd shaped block is for. Really brought the project together!
just a quick note, albeit a little pedantic; that is actually 2 four bar linkages. the first four bar is between the clamp, the intermediate plate, and the two lower bars, and the second four bar linakge is between the intermediate plate, the two upper bars, and that temporary aluminum plate. It is a bit confusing because you did only make four bars for the whole system, so it is easy to say it is a single four bar linkage.
Usually, a single 2-dimensional four bar linkage only has one degree of freedom, i..e. it is fully constrained except for it's one path of travel. Look at the back end of a mountain bike for example, many of those have four bar linkages to control the rear suspension. Because you have two four bar linkages, you can move in two degrees of freedom, up and down and side to side, but you are constrained rotationally.
Also note that none of this applies to something like an automotive four bar linkage suspension because that is a 3d space and you have 2 degrees of freedom from a single linkage (kinda)
The Clamps *and* Kipf? Two Futurama references in one video!
Yay!! It's Blondihacks time!!!
Block (upon being completed and gaining sentience): “How may I assist you?”
Quinn: “Please pass the butter.”
Block (passing the butter): “Maker, what is my life’s purpose?”
Quinn: “To pass the butter.”
Block: “Oh, god…😢”
EDM machining sure is pure magic!
Nice to see Hamilton mentioned, my home town. I knew you’d appreciate using stub drills, resistance is futile!
"Gotta love a four bar linkage." ~Quinn
"I don't have to do anything". ~Mr. Pendleton (Pollyanna)
Clever use of that linkage on a tool sharpener. We shared this video (alongside the first two parts) on our homemade tool forum last week. 😎
Just finsihed my Design of Machinery class and it was really hard. Glad I can enjoy the application of what I learnt now
05:40 hey, that frame saw collaboration video got me to your channel! Ahh good old times 🙂 I'm glad that you two did this, otherwise I probably would have never found the best machining content on UA-cam, and I would probably never have started to make my own metal tools for woodworking …!!! So, thank you, I guess? 😁
Rex got me interested in hand tool woodworking so the recruitment is mutual 😄
Greetings from Russia. Your ideas are inspiring. I have been working as a milling machine operator for 40 years. Your devices are very useful for me
❤Thank you for throwing some shade on the whole “laser-cut” thing…lasers are about as coherent as late 1990’s Latvian foreign policy (boy, that was a stretch…😮💨)
I usually put in stop first before measuring. I just put part where I want it to be at, then put stop, loosen jaws, put part against stop, then start doing stuff.
Thanks Quinn, helps a lot! ..and yeah, lasers aren't magical things; unless of course you're attaching them to sharks 🦈
I attach mine to my cat, if he feels frisky he aims it to the side and runs in circles. He loves to do that. Sometimes I change the direction, he needs to unwind, poor thing.
Very interesting machine all around. That clamp was just spot on.
I recently put a Starrett blade on my horizontal band saw and the improvement from the original was night and day!
Can confirm, those Starrett bimetal blades do the business. I got a tube of them, years ago, and... granted I've hardly done any metalwork since then, just don't have a place to set up and do anything unfortunately, but I have two in the electronics lab, one loose and one on a hacksaw proper. I've taken down more than a few feet of fiberglass PCB material with them both, and, I mean the edge is definitely dulling but they still cut a champ.
The only stuff they don't work on is ferrite, a glass-hard ceramic material I occasionally have to work; a sharp blade just barely digs in and scores the surface, but nothing I can get a consistent let alone deep cut going on. (That it even does that, is testament to the crazy carbides the bimetal teeth contain.) Need proper carbide or diamond tooling for that (for which I have a crap-box tile saw, SiC paper, and a diamond-embedded lap / sharpening stone), which work a treat.
Ah yes, the block! Nothing like a nice cliffhanger. Not that it was necessary, I always hang around your channel saturdays looking for the new post.
Pantograph milling is a pet fascination of mine. Also watching your view counter roll over while I type this!!! More than 200!!
Anyway, thank you for your postings! I do always learn something. You're the BEST!
Great video - as always! I'm a little perplexed though. What I don't understand is why those discs are, well, discs. Wouldn't be sensible (read 'easier) to make them as squares? Am I missing something here? A question of aesthetics, perhaps?
Hey my dad got me the same gift been a few years. I keep my punches in the holes. I gab it and go and already have all the punches with it. It just more fun when I can see all the right things I will need. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Quinn, when I made my version I followed Gary’s videos, this would be a perfect use of your float lock vice! Still great work & enjoy the hints & tips, Kerrin
6:52 _LIGHT_ cuts, Quinn. Whether that was deliberate or not I don't know, but thank you for that. 😊
You should send some of those nice hacksaw blades to hacksaw monster Artisan Makes.
“Snugs down real good when tight” sounds like one of Bon Jovi’s lesser known albums. Thanks Quinn.
I'll tell ya, I wasn't expecting a colab with Rex! Thats rad
If you had tapered the back side of the alignment pins and turned a chamfer into the disk treaded holes (in a four jaw), would that have improved contricity from the treaded holes? Probably crazy overkill for a project like this…
Love the emergency collet
Another question, I would imagine the orientation fidelity of a 4 bar linkage is related to the center distance on the 4 tie bars being as accurate as possible, would it make sense to stack and drill/ream the at the same time? Same with the disks.
I'm sure you considered this but curious if you indicated the dimples on the mill rather than using a drill press and letting drills self-center on them due to accuracy concerns, sizing of the holes, or some other factor? I probably would have YOLO'd it on the drill press and regretted it later so would love to be schooled on that.
Free refill of Swedish meatballs for that unexpected IKEA reference.❤ 🇸🇪
I really enjoy following your videos. Absolutely amazing. Brava
I always love the: "Because shut up - that's why" reasoning.
LOL
It's all starting to make sense.
Yay me! I sort of understand!
Oop, got a bit overenthusiastic there.
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
Hello Quin, nice job so far. Cheers 😷👍👍👍👍👍
You can cut down some jobber metric bits and resharpen with your fancy sharpener. Would make a good video.
Thanks Quinn
2:05 - I have seen some diy wire EDM on UA-cam, I would love for you to try and build one and then configure all the software. Ya know, in case you need ANOTHER project ☺️
a Starrett hose clamp. for some reason I never saw that in the catalog!
As usual. An excellent job.
if'n you used a cut tap, the minor dia "should" still be accurate, so you can just use gauge pins for reference.
And if she had rolled the threads?
@@CothranMike depending on the material, rolled thread minor dia is generally pretty accurate too, accurate enough anyway, once you get past the say the 3rd turn, though on a fairly thin part, I wouldn't do it that way.
disclaimer... its "fairly" accurate, you are already using a pin which is a secondary measurement, and even then there could be unseen issues in the thread, but for most hobby shop stuff its more then good enough (I used to run parts that had .005 true position, to a 6-32 thread... so there really isn't any "good" accurate method to locate something like that... we made the mating part too... it had +-.01" loc tolerance... and the holes were .015 oversize)
One medieval device we use on some aircraft to rig/verify the rudder system is a really (really) big 4-bar protractor. I call it The Widowmaker, because it'll happily provide enough leverage to effortlessly crush any digit you may have inattentively poked through the mechanism. I promise, you only ever do that once... Well, at least with *that* finger. 😂
Quinn , in the shop I work in we now have a Mantra we deburr these parts because, this separates us from the animal's I don't know why it never gets old ?and you made that up? I believe in time it will be in the machinist handbook .....
Square logic says this phrase is at least 110 years old, last century lingo is still cool, today.
I thought it was chamfers that separated us from the animals. That, and the fact that we’re not frightened by vacuum cleaners…
I meant to write Champer, and I just I guess I had a Freudian slip. 😀😀😀
@@mrimmortal1579 We're _not_ frightened by vacuum cleaners? Have you ever heard one of those things?
Tack!
So precise love it
Heck yeah, double 4 bar!
Starrett was recently sold to a private equity firm. Be wary of their quality moving forward.
Haimer Taster…Those are NICE
YAY!!! EDM!!! OONTZ OONTZ OONTZ!! Wait... Maybe.
Cats and boots and cats and boots 🤘
Great job. Thank you 😊
Dormer Pramet has some fairly good stub drill sets. Not in 0.1mm but they at least have a 0.5mm set which includes tap drill sizes.
Loving the linkage!
Rex is enthusiastic, generous and all about making amazing stuff from very little. Is he Canadian? 😎
When setting up that pre-dimpled stock where one of the dimples is a center, couldn't you set up and drill the center, then use it as a pivot point somehow while aligning the rest of the dimples?
some problem with those laser cut center punches is not only about the general precision on first cut you might be guided away from,
but its especially with those bars because they might end up with different centers for the hole and the outer rounded edges. this means you will always have some case of precision doubt if you will use these outer rounding for indicating. - probably only people with a turn table for the mill would be able to machine it in such a center-correct precision.
so i feel such a kit is meant for people having a rather slim set of machines - such as drilling and tapping with a simple drill presse or even by hand. having the skills and machines to do precision to such parts can be nice, but also think of shops that just say, it will work for me with lesser than accuracy to the last digit... i personally would end with 1/20 of a mm with my truly hobbyist set of measuring tools.
So there are advantages to hogging blocks of otherwise anonymous steel into the round shapes needed for these clamps!
I have the plans but not the laser cut kit so I have to make do with whatever is lying around my Mens Shed (Australian version of a Maker Space) scrap pile. My box of shame is beginning to rival that of Inheritance Machining but I'm having fun and may even even end up with a useful tool. 😁
We used to have devices like that in our drawing office. They were so we could draw parallel lines consistently. We called them drawing machines but I think the correct term is Pantograph.
Not quite- a pantograph is a different linkage that also scales up or down
Not to be confused with the lesser-known ‘pantigraph’, which is used in the clothing industry to draw underwear…
@@mrimmortal1579 😄
I wonder if a rotary table would make the pre-dimpled plates significantly less annoying, since you would just need to get your center plotted and then you can spin the workholding to get the other dimples to line up. Not that you have the space on that mill for three levels of workholding shenanigans, of course, just thinking generally.
lol, I liked the futurerama reference
You made a drafting machine! Cool.
Quinn made a model of my old drafting table!
did you ever thought about a tool to cut parabolic things on a lathe without cnc ? If not, please do so. I am the one who give you the first thumb-up (thats all ??!?!? sure :-) )
Such a tool didnt exist till now - as i know. it would be a great thing to have for cutting light reflector or some type of gears or metal for the scrap bin.
Where is the video series with Rex? I can't seem to easily find it on either of your channels and would love to watch it!
Search for “turning saw pins”
@@Blondihacks Ok, thank you! I for some reason thought that it was done in the last week or something so was very confused.
Is this a precursor to building a D-bit grinder?😇
Or are you secretly planning an edm build??😁
it is the ever elusive B-bit grinder. the B is for Bench Grinder
@@nerddub 🤣
Maybe she'll design an 8 bit grinder!
Grinder? There is an app for that!
Hey Quinn love your stuff but I have a question maybe you could make a video of.
I would like to make a long rack and pinion on the mill. I was wondering if you could make a video about grinding a d bit for milling the rack if you believe that would be a good idea.
Maybe you could practice the This Old Tony karate style chopping for the perfect cutting?
Taaaapy-tap-tap now has a second meaning! I almost felt a ripple in the space-time continuum 😳
You had me at four bar linkage.
Wouldn't a rotary table help with aligning of the holes?
Fascinating! Questions: did you undercut the threads on those locating pins? Is it necessary to do so?
Old time drafting table tool .
Such a nice pantograph, let's see more 😛
Could you grind the laser-scale off the part before cutting it on the lathe? Would that be any improvement?
EDM is sci-fi magic and is the future😎
I have an old (25+ years) stubby drill set from 1.5 to 12.5mm in 0.1mm increments but i have not seen any for sale anywhere these days.
And i even live in metric country.
Might be some company specialized in tooling that have something available but that usually also means specialized prices.
😭
Hi Quinn I live in the Netherlands and even I have trouble finding a stub drill set. Even individual stub drills are hard to find they come in packs of 5 to 10 mostly. My guess is that only cnc companies use then.
Originally they were called screw machine drill sizes. The back taper is the same, it just starts at the halfway point for them... cutting down a jobber length will lead to smaller holes as the original tip retreats toward the shank. Over all taper is called out in MH, this clearance saves a lot of hardened drill guides from overheating.
Like. done.
Comment. Done
Just helping the algorithm.
I saw a product being developed by some 3D printing enthusiasts a while back for home EDM using the frame from a cheap 3D printer. I think it was called PowerCore or something? Would be really cool to see you try that!
The most common is M8! Change my mind!
The most needed metric socket size is 10mm. This size is used on M6 bolts, therefore M6 is more common.
@@eDoc2020 10mm socket gets kidnapped by the monsters first. Doesn't mean M6 is most common!
Would a rotary table help with the Dimple Dance?
Gotta practice my clampin!!!😂😂 cant hear the words without hearing the voice
Kinda miss your Red Do-Rag!
Was that an upside down audio tape editing block at the end?
Hi Quinn,
I did look back if i miss something ? But the fixtureplate you use did you make it yourself ?? And why the boltpatron so close to eatch other?? MAybe you can explain why this is?? Sorry if this all is not correct English... Keep up the good work. Love what you make !!!!!