Much more room now for 4BT parts & the new rewire plan, as well as another step closer to trying to fit giant Range Rover Sport brakes! *>>NOTE:* Master Cylinder port is M12x1.0 bubble flare, Junctions & Calipers are M10x1.0 bubble flare, new hose is -3AN _(aka 3/16)_ teflon lined stainless. *>>WHY* delete ABS? Well I would say do not unless it's for offroad. If so, then it's worth it to free up underhood space, remove complexity for trail fixes, and improving durability + longevity + future modification.
IDK bro, I would have kept it because it is an effective safety component plus the TC is nice on non locked drivetrain. But the biggest reason is that you could have been rocking Nanuuq that much faster. I would hope I could still remember to pump the brakes on the ice. But since it is your ride, I'm glad you are making it the way you want it.
Love your work!!! Are you intending on fitting the RRS brakes any time soon? Very interested to see how it goes. Looking at putting D2 axles under my D1, so could be interested in a similar upgrade if it works for you!
@@junglejonny1000 On a standard road going car perhaps. I'm no high level driver, but I have disabled "driver's aids" in every vehicle I've owned since 2004, including several vehicles I've used in competition. ABS is terrible offroad no matter which way you cut it, & I have plenty of experience without it in every terrain _(doesn't do a thing on ice without studs)_ . Traction control in a open-diff Disco can't compare to a locked-diff Disco, that's why all the offroad builds go locked in all 3 diffs. The initial implementation of Traction Control & changes inside the LT230 in the Disco's was a cost cutting move, not for better offroad performance. There's a reason the locking diff came back, plenty of uproar about poor performance offroad. It was no delay in the project really, had to happen either way to make room for the new electrics & some ideas I have for 4BT parts. All that being said, I do appreciate the concern!
I'd reposition the valve as vibration and heavy bumps will be liable to break it! The idea would be to have it inside the cab if you are towing heavy loads you could always put more pressure to the rear as in like a load sensing valve
It's well supported! The master & fittings are steel, it's surprisingly rigid, but I'll be keeping an eye on it to see if maybe it deserves an extra bracket for support. I planned to put marks on it for loaded & unloaded weight, just like I do on other vehicles I've built braking systems for. Although this behemoth will be a little more hair raising to test the lockup! I would install it inside for a racecar, but this will be a set & forget type of thing since I'll be far from looking to set lap times haha!
Thanks. I know you could just pull the fuse from the ABS for offroad, but if anything in the ABS fails offroad it would be a nightmare to repair versus my new setup. And my traction control worked "okay" since mind didn't have the locking center diff, but after the lift with the bigger tires it was a disaster & I disabled it completely.
@@Tinker1837 did it not have a cfdl or just no linkage to engage it most of the early d2s actually had the cdl gear in the transfer case just no solenoid or lever to engage it should be a fairly simple retrofit to activate
@@gmoose777 Sadly the guts were not in my original case, but it did give me the chance to tear into a salvage case that did have the locking bits so I could do some reliability & durability upgrades.
very neat, may I suggest that while stainless braided hose is super tough a bit of spyrap where the hoses are zip tied together and where the left one passes the inner guard cutout would help with longevity, would love to be able to do that to mine down here in OZ but the fun police would have a coniption
Ah yeah that's a good tip, especially for those 3 together... if that tie starts to weaken it'll let them slip & rub together, maybe saw themselves apart. I do feel lucky to live in a part of the US where most mods are okay, because I feel like otherwise I'd know the "repair & report" officials on a first name basis.
Yeah that spot could be a bit of a bubble trap, but those AN fittings are actually not much harder to bleed then the nipple on a caliper (it's something I've done before due to a broken off caliper bleeder)
Your project is amazing and the videos are great! I got a question for my personal build. Could I just put a switch for the ABS relays and turn the system off when offroading and on for street driving?
Thanks, but before you say that you might want to see the things I have to edit out. No shortage of busted knuckles, harsh words, & hell I'm still trying to grow this fingernail that I popped off... oops haha
Tinker hey Man, if you aren’t learning new curse words during a project, you aren’t doing it right! Again relatable! I completely ripped off my right ring finger, fingernail a month ago and it’s just starting to grow back now, and boy did that hurt!! Haha!! Always look forward to your uploads bud!!
That's no kidding, plenty of new words on a project this ongoing! Hopefully I'll not have such a big gap between the next uploads... I get distracted so damn easy.
That stuff looked difficult but he did it he really good with making figments and connectors Hey Tinker when you do get it all done and finished just take it to some local land rover dealer for and oil change tellum its runs and sounds ruff lmao 😂😂😂😂😅
Tinker, whats your reasoning behind soft lines and not using hard lines? Also, are you going to make a video on trans tunnel firewall insulation? Icon 4x4 uses OEM style heat deflectors. Could you make a video on sourcing those and fitting to you project vehicle.
Durability, longevity, ease of modification. Yeah I'll probably get into that sort of thing as I start getting the dashboard back in place, & for sure! Not that the 4BT makes much heat, but I'll do a bunch of research & digging around to find the right thing for the build to at least cut noise down.
every video i see of yours, its getting more tempting to do a cummins than an LS. It had me wondering though, my disco 3 is an auto v8 and heavily relies on electronics to go wheeling, how would a 4bt fair? I really like the idea of a mechanical 4WD with standard tranny, transfer case shifter etc.
The electrical system on the Rovers past the Series rigs is definitely the tricky bit. I've filled gutted my electrics & I'm building my own system. The newer Cummins 2.8L might be a better fit if you did want to keep a lot of the functions of the newer trucks. But I feel you on the mechanical build! It was a big step to tear out all my wiring, but I think it will be a fun side of the project to do a custom electrical system. Reliability is going to be the the roof on comparison to the old factory setup!
The modern stuff isn't too squishy like people worry about so long as you size it appropriately & keep excess length to a minimum. It's sooo nice to work on compared to hard line, longer lasting, & well worth the cost in my opinion. I've patched plenty of rusty hard lines, so don't get me wrong, very much depends on the project!
@@Tinker1837 there's always cupro (copper/nickel alloy) brake line... easy to bend, does not rust. Use SS brake nuts and you'll never need to replace the lines again.
@@JordanVH98 True! I've heard things about copper leaching from that but I don't know if that's been tested to be a real issue. The AN stuff still has the durability win, since the cupro stuff squishes easily (working near it or trail damage) & the AN hose flexes out of the way of most anything.
I love your videos. I need to replace a brake line in my project car and now I think I’m going to redo all of then to this type of line. Keeping abs though
Thanks, & yeah you could upgrade the lines while still keeping all the hard parts where they were. I would definitely keep ABS on a track car, or a daily driver with a more modern module then my old clunky one.
I didn't, & everything I ordered was straight from Summit Racing since I already knew what I was after. I would highly recommend installing AN hose the same inner diameter as the stock lines. The "dash" sizes in AN refer to how many 16th's of an inch it's inner bore is. In my case my Rover had 3/16" hard line, so I replaced it with -3AN _(the -3 = 3/16)_
Very nice!!!! Got a link to those hoses and fittings? Think I will need to redo my front brake lines in my jeep:-( Is that a new power steering pump I see there????
Thanks! Those are mostly Eaton Aeroquip fittings + hose. Mine weren't too rusty but were well on their way to falling apart. Yep that's a new PSC can on it with an AN fitting for an upcoming video 😎 Here's a link I think should work to some of those fittings: www.summitracing.com/search?keyword=Aeroquip%20steel%20-3
@@Tinker1837 yeah my likes are ok for now but they are really rusty....I thought one would need a hose crimp tool to do brake lines...never knew they made an fitting style hose ends!
Just have to be sure whatever hose/line you pick is rated for the pressures, lots out there that ok skills but are very much not rated for the brake line's hydraulic pressure!
How many times you start it up and just listen to it running? I bet you have listened to it and thought to youreself ,what's that noise, is that normal? That cant be normal? Shit something is jacked up I know it. Haha
@@Tinker1837 awesome! This is something I plan to do with my disco1. Looking at the hydraboost from a 2500 suburban or similar. Not sure if I should use the LR master or the associated 2500 master. Looking forward to your vid on that upgrade!
@@dbjac That would be a great inexpensive option, hoping I can find a suitable candidate like that. Just need to measure the Disco's master cylinder piston diameter to compare to others.
@@Tinker1837 ABS on older vehicles: YES AC: HELL NO, I run in the desert where temps hit 115 in the shade....and there ain't no shade. LOL I hunt, I want a quieter exhaust, but still want some feedback. Especially on downshift. My Magnaflow Off Road is retardedly loud, fartcan on a Honda bad. Does improve my angle of departure, though... Emissions? Goes both ways. Without some major tuning, you may be screwing yourself on MPG's. Or not...just depends on the powerplant/ECU/tuning.
Does your brake pedal feel spongy using steel braided instead of steel lines? I love the look and would rather go that route instead of bending steel lines off the master cylinder.
It will certainly make trail repairs loads easier, not to mention potentially free up a mess of space under the hood. I think this is maybe my 5th or 6th ABS delete. But to be fair they were all on '08 and older vehicles which for the most part have pretty "dumb" controllers. More modern ABS is leaps & bounds better, at least on tarmac.
Not at all, it is a real mix of things now! It has a heavy duty upgraded clutch under an advance adapters bellhousing, a NV4500 transmission built in halves with a Dodge main case and a Chevy tail housing, a custom built divorced connection to a built LT230 and a pair of now equal-length driveshafts.
Best estimate is roughly 200 horsepower and 600 torque at 1600 revolutions, and hopefully around 25 miles per gallon fuel consumption so that I can get 600 miles range from the fuel tank.
Is there any difference in brake "feel" going from hardlines to flex? I know you did the abs delete in the addition of the flex line, so you have no true base line, but do you feel any difference in the brakes?
I've done the same in other projects & as long as you use the right size flex hose + master cylinder & booster combination it feels very near the same. I mistakenly went up a size in hose on my Subaru & it's a little soft in the upper bit of the travel. Thankfully tightens right up about a 1/3 of the way down, but to be fair it also has much larger brakes all around w/different master + booster + abs delete. I plan to upgrade the Disco's brakes to big Range Rover brakes, so remains to be seen just how good the combo will be.
For sure, some of the toughest around! I've left a fair bit of blood in vehicles where people didn't care to cut the tails flush... not on any of my builds! ✂️
@@timb4655 Couldn't agree more! And worse yet is usually forget all those scratches they cause on the back of my hand... until you spill any fluid on yourself 😬
Probably so they don't just smash or deform if hit by something off-road. Also all the anti-corrosion benefits. Brake likes can easily rust out if the coating comes off.
Pros: Longevity in materials, far & away in durability, easily modified, simpler to maintain, nice looking. Cons: Costs, can wear thru nearby things, larger bend radius, different skill set.
WHY delete ABS? Well I would say do not unless it's for offroad. If so, then it's worth it to free up underhood space, remove complexity for trail fixes, and improving durability + longevity + future modification.
@@ninjakiller09 Mix. Was primarily on-road for day to day uses, with many short off-road trips per year. But after all this work this Disco will be used much more off-road & for longer continuous periods of time "off grid".
Vibration loosening/damaging the valve? I had my concerns at first, but after those steel fittings locked down I felt very confident it saw l was solidly mounted. But I suppose a little support bracket from the booster bolts to the valve mount holes wouldn't be a big deal to fabricate either.
Let me know if your ever up for some camp/rovering in Wisconsin. Im in Douglas county, right on the Brule river. Lots of good spots here. I have a 97 disco w/ the 4.0 v8, thunderer mud tracs, front and rear led spotlights and the jon boat fits perfect on top. Same color too!
![First Drive! × 4BT Cummins Discovery #43 [Land Rover Build]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/uCeyshh8Pnk/mqdefault.jpg)
![First Drive! × 4BT Cummins Discovery #43 [Land Rover Build]](/img/tr.png)
![Big Battery Cables × 4BT Cummins Discovery #33 [Land Rover Build]](/img/n.gif)
Much more room now for 4BT parts & the new rewire plan, as well as another step closer to trying to fit giant Range Rover Sport brakes! *>>NOTE:* Master Cylinder port is M12x1.0 bubble flare, Junctions & Calipers are M10x1.0 bubble flare, new hose is -3AN _(aka 3/16)_ teflon lined stainless. *>>WHY* delete ABS? Well I would say do not unless it's for offroad. If so, then it's worth it to free up underhood space, remove complexity for trail fixes, and improving durability + longevity + future modification.
You've been missing half the fun for years, TC has always worked great for me (when it works), I have no CDL.
Mine worked "okay" until I lifted the suspension and put big tires on it... then none of it worked right haha!
IDK bro, I would have kept it because it is an effective safety component plus the TC is nice on non locked drivetrain. But the biggest reason is that you could have been rocking Nanuuq that much faster. I would hope I could still remember to pump the brakes on the ice. But since it is your ride, I'm glad you are making it the way you want it.
Love your work!!! Are you intending on fitting the RRS brakes any time soon? Very interested to see how it goes. Looking at putting D2 axles under my D1, so could be interested in a similar upgrade if it works for you!
@@junglejonny1000 On a standard road going car perhaps. I'm no high level driver, but I have disabled "driver's aids" in every vehicle I've owned since 2004, including several vehicles I've used in competition. ABS is terrible offroad no matter which way you cut it, & I have plenty of experience without it in every terrain _(doesn't do a thing on ice without studs)_ . Traction control in a open-diff Disco can't compare to a locked-diff Disco, that's why all the offroad builds go locked in all 3 diffs. The initial implementation of Traction Control & changes inside the LT230 in the Disco's was a cost cutting move, not for better offroad performance. There's a reason the locking diff came back, plenty of uproar about poor performance offroad. It was no delay in the project really, had to happen either way to make room for the new electrics & some ideas I have for 4BT parts. All that being said, I do appreciate the concern!
No more weird pedal feel and buzzing sound ! Strictly threshold braking and downshifting like driving was meant to be ! Great days to ya Tinker !
Yeah! It's going to be a trip driving this thing with damn near every feel from the old setup being changed. But I'm ready for it!
It will surely be hard to wipe the smile offa ya face !
Dude, you get so many cool points. Hand wrenches in tight spaces while filming. My hat is off to you.
I feel like a contortionist sometimes when the camera is on!
Absolutely wonderful as usual. Thank you for another great video
Thanks & plenty more to come! Looking forward to the video when I drive it out of there :D
I'd reposition the valve as vibration and heavy bumps will be liable to break it!
The idea would be to have it inside the cab if you are towing heavy loads you could always put more pressure to the rear as in like a load sensing valve
It's well supported! The master & fittings are steel, it's surprisingly rigid, but I'll be keeping an eye on it to see if maybe it deserves an extra bracket for support. I planned to put marks on it for loaded & unloaded weight, just like I do on other vehicles I've built braking systems for. Although this behemoth will be a little more hair raising to test the lockup! I would install it inside for a racecar, but this will be a set & forget type of thing since I'll be far from looking to set lap times haha!
The Great job but I would have kept the ABS and TC... I know it can be temperamental but the TC works brilliant off road!
Thanks. I know you could just pull the fuse from the ABS for offroad, but if anything in the ABS fails offroad it would be a nightmare to repair versus my new setup. And my traction control worked "okay" since mind didn't have the locking center diff, but after the lift with the bigger tires it was a disaster & I disabled it completely.
@@Tinker1837 did it not have a cfdl or just no linkage to engage it most of the early d2s actually had the cdl gear in the transfer case just no solenoid or lever to engage it should be a fairly simple retrofit to activate
@@gmoose777 Sadly the guts were not in my original case, but it did give me the chance to tear into a salvage case that did have the locking bits so I could do some reliability & durability upgrades.
very neat, may I suggest that while stainless braided hose is super tough a bit of spyrap where the hoses are zip tied together and where the left one passes the inner guard cutout would help with longevity, would love to be able to do that to mine down here in OZ but the fun police would have a coniption
Ah yeah that's a good tip, especially for those 3 together... if that tie starts to weaken it'll let them slip & rub together, maybe saw themselves apart. I do feel lucky to live in a part of the US where most mods are okay, because I feel like otherwise I'd know the "repair & report" officials on a first name basis.
I love how clean you work!
Thanks!
Might want to consider putting in a bleeder port above the valve.
Yeah that spot could be a bit of a bubble trap, but those AN fittings are actually not much harder to bleed then the nipple on a caliper (it's something I've done before due to a broken off caliper bleeder)
Your project is amazing and the videos are great! I got a question for my personal build. Could I just put a switch for the ABS relays and turn the system off when offroading and on for street driving?
Yes you could! I used to pull out the big fuse for the ABS until I started modifying it more.
Absolutely brilliant vids and a great build
Hey thanks!
You sir, are a brilliant man.
Thanks, but before you say that you might want to see the things I have to edit out. No shortage of busted knuckles, harsh words, & hell I'm still trying to grow this fingernail that I popped off... oops haha
Tinker hey Man, if you aren’t learning new curse words during a project, you aren’t doing it right! Again relatable! I completely ripped off my right ring finger, fingernail a month ago and it’s just starting to grow back now, and boy did that hurt!! Haha!! Always look forward to your uploads bud!!
That's no kidding, plenty of new words on a project this ongoing! Hopefully I'll not have such a big gap between the next uploads... I get distracted so damn easy.
Tinker You also have a life to live brotha! Thanks for sharing this process!
That stuff looked difficult but he did it he really good with making figments and connectors
Hey Tinker when you do get it all done and finished just take it to some local land rover dealer for and oil change tellum its runs and sounds ruff lmao 😂😂😂😂😅
That would be so funny! Tell them it's smoking real bad & making valve chatter noises lol
That's awesome, I need to do that to my RRC
One less thing to go wrong!
Tinker, whats your reasoning behind soft lines and not using hard lines?
Also, are you going to make a video on trans tunnel firewall insulation? Icon 4x4 uses OEM style heat deflectors. Could you make a video on sourcing those and fitting to you project vehicle.
Durability, longevity, ease of modification. Yeah I'll probably get into that sort of thing as I start getting the dashboard back in place, & for sure! Not that the 4BT makes much heat, but I'll do a bunch of research & digging around to find the right thing for the build to at least cut noise down.
every video i see of yours, its getting more tempting to do a cummins than an LS. It had me wondering though, my disco 3 is an auto v8 and heavily relies on electronics to go wheeling, how would a 4bt fair? I really like the idea of a mechanical 4WD with standard tranny, transfer case shifter etc.
The electrical system on the Rovers past the Series rigs is definitely the tricky bit. I've filled gutted my electrics & I'm building my own system. The newer Cummins 2.8L might be a better fit if you did want to keep a lot of the functions of the newer trucks. But I feel you on the mechanical build! It was a big step to tear out all my wiring, but I think it will be a fun side of the project to do a custom electrical system. Reliability is going to be the the roof on comparison to the old factory setup!
Love the videos I just not a big fan of using more braided line and fittings than is absolutely necessary on brake lines.
The modern stuff isn't too squishy like people worry about so long as you size it appropriately & keep excess length to a minimum. It's sooo nice to work on compared to hard line, longer lasting, & well worth the cost in my opinion. I've patched plenty of rusty hard lines, so don't get me wrong, very much depends on the project!
@@Tinker1837 there's always cupro (copper/nickel alloy) brake line... easy to bend, does not rust. Use SS brake nuts and you'll never need to replace the lines again.
@@JordanVH98 True! I've heard things about copper leaching from that but I don't know if that's been tested to be a real issue. The AN stuff still has the durability win, since the cupro stuff squishes easily (working near it or trail damage) & the AN hose flexes out of the way of most anything.
I love your videos. I need to replace a brake line in my project car and now I think I’m going to redo all of then to this type of line. Keeping abs though
Thanks, & yeah you could upgrade the lines while still keeping all the hard parts where they were. I would definitely keep ABS on a track car, or a daily driver with a more modern module then my old clunky one.
Did you contact Eaton for help? Their website is confusing
I didn't, & everything I ordered was straight from Summit Racing since I already knew what I was after. I would highly recommend installing AN hose the same inner diameter as the stock lines. The "dash" sizes in AN refer to how many 16th's of an inch it's inner bore is. In my case my Rover had 3/16" hard line, so I replaced it with -3AN _(the -3 = 3/16)_
Woooo another good job .. awesome
Thanks :)
Eyyyyy been waitin for a new one!
I should've had this one out a week ago... but I kept changing how I wanted it all setup. I'm too picky sometimes!
Very nice!!!! Got a link to those hoses and fittings? Think I will need to redo my front brake lines in my jeep:-(
Is that a new power steering pump I see there????
Thanks! Those are mostly Eaton Aeroquip fittings + hose. Mine weren't too rusty but were well on their way to falling apart. Yep that's a new PSC can on it with an AN fitting for an upcoming video 😎
Here's a link I think should work to some of those fittings: www.summitracing.com/search?keyword=Aeroquip%20steel%20-3
@@Tinker1837 yeah my likes are ok for now but they are really rusty....I thought one would need a hose crimp tool to do brake lines...never knew they made an fitting style hose ends!
Just have to be sure whatever hose/line you pick is rated for the pressures, lots out there that ok skills but are very much not rated for the brake line's hydraulic pressure!
@@Tinker1837 I was just looking at the link and the hose I was looking at is rated at 3000 psi
Yep, lots of headroom for even extreme pressures/failures.
Good time everyone is waiting for the continuation ...
Lots more coming!
BMW is going to be pissed you ripped out their crappy ABS System. LOL
I tossed a jacket over my motorcycle so it wouldn't be offended haha!
Thanks for the vidéo ✌️
Really love your videos !
Many more to come :)
How many times you start it up and just listen to it running? I bet you have listened to it and thought to youreself ,what's that noise, is that normal? That cant be normal? Shit something is jacked up I know it. Haha
Oh man, pretty much every time I walk into the shop ha!
Great work! Would have been a good time to go Hydro Boost too!
That's a plan for the next phase of the brake upgrades, with hydroboost & giant Range Rover sport brakes.
@@Tinker1837 awesome! This is something I plan to do with my disco1.
Looking at the hydraboost from a 2500 suburban or similar. Not sure if I should use the LR master or the associated 2500 master.
Looking forward to your vid on that upgrade!
@@dbjac That would be a great inexpensive option, hoping I can find a suitable candidate like that. Just need to measure the Disco's master cylinder piston diameter to compare to others.
Hrm...my 03 Danger Ranger has a joke of an ABS system...Love to be rid of it. You got me looking at a delete!
ABS, quiet exhaust, air con, & emissions all get the axe when I get a vehicle >:)
@@Tinker1837 ABS on older vehicles: YES AC: HELL NO, I run in the desert where temps hit 115 in the shade....and there ain't no shade. LOL I hunt, I want a quieter exhaust, but still want some feedback. Especially on downshift. My Magnaflow Off Road is retardedly loud, fartcan on a Honda bad. Does improve my angle of departure, though... Emissions? Goes both ways. Without some major tuning, you may be screwing yourself on MPG's. Or not...just depends on the powerplant/ECU/tuning.
do you ever fear someone stealing your car...
so much time, love, money, work...
I have some very fancy things to deal with that ;)
Kill switch
@@troyfabrizius9942 Haha not just a kill switch... I was referring to something with considerably more technology 🤓
Great job mân, but what about doing this on an every day car? But keeping the ABS
Thanks and yeah I would recommend only doing this if your Disco is heavily modified & used offroad often.
Hi Do you have a link to where you brought the Fragola adapters to fit into the brake master cylinder please
Summit Racing is great for that sort of thing.
Damn i wish we would have selve service junkyards in germany but I think they are no longer allowed
That's a shame :( They are a great resource.
Does your brake pedal feel spongy using steel braided instead of steel lines? I love the look and would rather go that route instead of bending steel lines off the master cylinder.
That really only happens when oversizing the piping from original. Modern flexible brake hose has come a long way!
I may do this to my jeep.
It will certainly make trail repairs loads easier, not to mention potentially free up a mess of space under the hood. I think this is maybe my 5th or 6th ABS delete. But to be fair they were all on '08 and older vehicles which for the most part have pretty "dumb" controllers. More modern ABS is leaps & bounds better, at least on tarmac.
wilwood nice brake line
Wilwood + Eaton = great quality!
I love your videos man! How did you learn all this stuff?
Thanks! Well honestly trial & error, starting a few fires, wrecking a few engines, etc. And several friends with various talents willing to share 🛠️
@@Tinker1837 awesome, looking forward to more videos😁
I wonder what to do with the hood?
I have a fun idea for that :)
@@Tinker1837 Fine! Will wait!
Was watching this going, "um....where's the prop valve?"....then it entered.
I was thinking of installing it later since I was getting amped up on the engine running, but cooler heads prevailed.
Its the drivetrain stock? What power you will be running?
Not at all, it is a real mix of things now! It has a heavy duty upgraded clutch under an advance adapters bellhousing, a NV4500 transmission built in halves with a Dodge main case and a Chevy tail housing, a custom built divorced connection to a built LT230 and a pair of now equal-length driveshafts.
What is the power of this engine now?
Best estimate is roughly 200 horsepower and 600 torque at 1600 revolutions, and hopefully around 25 miles per gallon fuel consumption so that I can get 600 miles range from the fuel tank.
Бэнч . Жду дальше видосов
More on the way!
Is there any difference in brake "feel" going from hardlines to flex? I know you did the abs delete in the addition of the flex line, so you have no true base line, but do you feel any difference in the brakes?
I've done the same in other projects & as long as you use the right size flex hose + master cylinder & booster combination it feels very near the same. I mistakenly went up a size in hose on my Subaru & it's a little soft in the upper bit of the travel.
Thankfully tightens right up about a 1/3 of the way down, but to be fair it also has much larger brakes all around w/different master + booster + abs delete. I plan to upgrade the Disco's brakes to big Range Rover brakes, so remains to be seen just how good the combo will be.
T&B tyraps, the only choice. Removing tails with a Stanley blade ? Savage/master swordsman - delete as appropriate 👌😎#Legend
For sure, some of the toughest around! I've left a fair bit of blood in vehicles where people didn't care to cut the tails flush... not on any of my builds! ✂️
@@Tinker1837 I call it "Tyrap rash" and it should be classified as a Capital Offence
@@timb4655 Couldn't agree more! And worse yet is usually forget all those scratches they cause on the back of my hand... until you spill any fluid on yourself 😬
what is the benefit of using the flexible lines vs hard lines from the master?
Probably so they don't just smash or deform if hit by something off-road. Also all the anti-corrosion benefits. Brake likes can easily rust out if the coating comes off.
Pros: Longevity in materials, far & away in durability, easily modified, simpler to maintain, nice looking. Cons: Costs, can wear thru nearby things, larger bend radius, different skill set.
My favorite part of your videos has to be when you throw your shit around lmfao omg ded hahahahha
No "mechanical sympathy" for old outdated parts haha!
where did u buy those brake lines . can u plz tell
Summit Racing
Damn, I heard you listening to the DTFH podcast in that car lot haha
He's an interesting funny dude!
Where have you been ? Do more videos . We missed you .
Working hard on getting it ready to drive out of the shop :D
@@Tinker1837 keep us updated man !!!
Маньяк ! Очень красиво
Thanks!
Why you dont need ABS for offroading ?
It gets very confused & does funny things on constantly loose surfaces when offroad.
@@Tinker1837 aha ok
Haaaaaah,,, my type of delete👍👍👍👍
I've been wanting to delete it for so long!
Why would one want to delete the abs?
WHY delete ABS? Well I would say do not unless it's for offroad. If so, then it's worth it to free up underhood space, remove complexity for trail fixes, and improving durability + longevity + future modification.
@@Tinker1837. Ok I figured as much. Is this vehicle for strictly off-road or a mix?
@@ninjakiller09 Mix. Was primarily on-road for day to day uses, with many short off-road trips per year. But after all this work this Disco will be used much more off-road & for longer continuous periods of time "off grid".
How does your outback do offroad?
Pretty good! Has 4.11 gears if you can believe it. Still want to put a turbo or 6 cylinder in it though, more low end grunt the better.
I have problems break in my discovery v8
They have a common problem if you Google search "Discovery 3 amigos" you should find fixes for it.
👏👏 nice work, yes cut off this f......... ABS
Thanks! Chopped it clean off ✂️
Whole video, I'm thinking, "where's the distribution block? where it is it? this won't work." Then, it shows up.
Oh yeah haha that would've been a disaster without it!
Больше видео!
I'm working on finishing several more :)
046 sec 4runner meu carro aqui muito difícil de peças
They are common here, but the older 4runner are getting valuable now.
hummm...4bt in a rover and your prop valve is attached to the master.....that would make me worry.
Vibration loosening/damaging the valve? I had my concerns at first, but after those steel fittings locked down I felt very confident it saw l was solidly mounted. But I suppose a little support bracket from the booster bolts to the valve mount holes wouldn't be a big deal to fabricate either.
Where u from
Michigan, below the bridge (aka troll)
@@Tinker1837 i am from chicago we gotta hit silver lake when your done
that looks like a lot of weight hanging off
Nah, master is made of steel & valve is aluminum.
Nobody puts ABS in a corner! Nobody!
Have you ever danced with the ABS in the pale moonlight?
First! Like
😎👍
Im officially renaming you.
TINKERNATOR T-2019
Terminator of useless parts , rejuvenator of awesome.
Ha I like it! Come with me if you want to Rover!
Let me know if your ever up for some camp/rovering in Wisconsin. Im in Douglas county, right on the Brule river. Lots of good spots here. I have a 97 disco w/ the 4.0 v8, thunderer mud tracs, front and rear led spotlights and the jon boat fits perfect on top. Same color too!
U R lol
I try haha
Hi. What do you want for the abs ligth on the dash ?
No worry, since I'm building an all new dash ;) All the old gauges are being replaced with 8 new gauges for the new engine.