I can understand riveting to the rear quarter but taking the rear bumper off is an essential for me so maybe in my case id use riveting nuts on the bumper
Damn, that s2k is clean! Dude, clecos are a game changer when it comes to anything sheet metal related. Love the side clamps for flat panel work. Killer video as always man.
Thanks for the informative video. Though I'm a bit worried about your method of drilling holes into the fender without coating them for rust protection before mounting the flares/arches.
Nice. I need to do this too for mine, since i only used carbon fiber bondo to sealed it 4-5 years ago. Good video! Very informative. Since i will be repainting the car, i will need do this as well.
the arch is very well done! way better, safer and nicer then most people do. but before putting on that black stoneguard stuff on the bare metal i wouldve at least primered the arches twice. especially on bare metal you need to build a proper paint build up. and especially when that part gets basically sandblasted by the tire all the time. if that car is more then just a trailer queen then there will be bare metal again very fast. also you didnt speak about what you do to the inside of the wheelarches i think? if the car isnt properly protected there as well, rust will eventually form on the welds. btw. i think rivnuts are great for kits like that. its a good thing if you can remove your kit without a hassle to repair maybe a crack, repaint a part quickly, fix your inner arches or just clean behind it. 🤷♂️
Good point on the primer before applying rocker guard, I will do that in the future! As for the inside portion I will certainly look into using a weldable primer. Rivnuts are great in many cases, but imo they look goofy on widebody.
@@lock_to_lock id use at least some rust protection wax on the inside of the arches. on an s2000 bit hard to reach every inch of the arch but it is possible and the car is protected.
Great video! Saving it for later. The previous owner of my S2K butchered the fenders when he tried rolling/pulling them. As a result, I'll probably go wide-body eventually.
Nice work. I do somewhat question the utility of heating the steel with just a heat gun, given the critical temperature for that particular metal, as opposed to just whaling on it with a big hammer. Still, hard to argue with your results. As for your opinions regarding *rivnuts*, however... I just can't abide that. I mean, button head socket caps are just so *pretty*! 🤣🤣🤣
Appreciate the love, Thanks for watching! You definitely can run a seal on the flares, but I don't think it is absolutely necessary. The customer needed this job done quickly so I made it happen with what he gave me.
Very nice work man! I have to cut mine also the right way the 2nd time, 1st was a quick cut no one needs to see what that looked like but 2853018 18x11 square rubs a lil bit. hahahaha!
whats that one bracket on the driver side on top of the coil mount nut? edit: LHT master cylinder brace, reducing fire wall flex and braking better. how did it feel after install?
Great video, I'll definitely be doing the same when I install my wide body kit, with the front guards, they don't have an inner guard that needs to be cut does it?
Rivet nuts, because the widebody attaches to both the body AND the front/rear bumpers. If I have to remove the bumpers for any reason, I don't feel like drilling a bunch of rivets
Hey that’s awesome work Alex my son is wanting to the same on a Subaru legacy wagon but he’s having issues getting the wide body kit wondering if you’d be able to help us out, we live in Vancouver Bc Canada thx hope to hear from you
is this method applicable on 2016 mustang? i mean heating the inner fenders and hammer them when they r new and not sliced ? or do i need to sliced them so i can stretch them like u did? cuz i dont know man if they were new and the gap is big , i feel it not gonna stretch till it meet the otter fenders
@@lock_to_lock thanks for ur reply, i did alot of searching, unfortunately not too much videos for mustangs, and the videos i found all of them doing the slice bend method, it seems like ill take my chances doing it
Would still avoid cutting slices if you can, I'd bet you there is plenty of material to hammer up to close that gap after cutting your arch. You got this!
@@lock_to_lock So point proven for using rivnuts? He now has to take it back off to paint it lol Wide bodies absolutely come of fairly regularly on cars that see the track.
@@lock_to_lock being ugly is an entirely invalid argument for this video 😂 In the video you claim "stop pretending you're going to take the wide body off". Wrong. Wide bodies become a wear item on track cars and they do come off. Rivnuts can be re used and take 30 seconds to remove the panel. Rivets have to be drilled out and restocked every time you take the panel off. You don't have to like rivnuts but this video and your reasons for it make you sound like a moron. No one is saying rivnuts look good. But on a track car they just make sense.
if thats clean id like to sell you your next race car ... well it was 2 cars before lol.... we do it different in the uk mostly custom fabbed steel arch liners then custom plastic liners ... to avoid rush noise etc
What was the point of the Clecos? If your hole isn’t spot on, the rivet will also be in the wrong spot. If your hole is spot on, just drill and rivet. You added a temporary fastener, then swapped out for a permanent. Adding to my last comment, it’s WAY easier to crack fiberglass with rivets than rivet nuts.
@ Bahahaha. I knew you couldn’t keep your composure. That ego was just ready to burst. Have fun with your clecos. Those rears could have been installed in under 2 hours. J’s Racing, ASM, Spoon… all of them.
Sorry bud, this is slightly better than the slit technique but this is still not the right way to do it. The right way is to cut the high line on the outer skin. cut the inner skin and separate where the 2 seams meet if you can. Roll a sheet and swage a flange line ideally but not necessary. Can either lap weld using stitches spaced 25-50mm apart or if you made the flange spot weld. Then stitch weld the rolled tub you made 25-50mm apart and cut the excess and seal everything up. Essentially it's the same but comes out a lot cleaner and doesn't warp the outer skin. Fully welded is not necessary.
I’m all for people doing things their way, but most of the logic for not doing the tab method and not using rivet nuts is flimsy at best. Tabs and seam sealer or sika flex works very well. It doesn’t take a ton of time. You don’t need welding equipment. Obviously, the way that was done on that car before was trash. But let’s not pretend tabs can’t be don’t cleanly. As for the rivets vs rivet nuts…no. Rivets are ugly #1. #2, there’s always a possibility you need to swap a flare or bumper. Screws take less than a minute to remove. Rivets require drilling and more times than not… THEY SPIN.
Man finallyy seeing someone doing it the right way
Lots of questionable tutorials out there 🤣
Thanks for watching!
I can understand riveting to the rear quarter but taking the rear bumper off is an essential for me so maybe in my case id use riveting nuts on the bumper
Good point, if your widebody overlaps panels I can understand using rivnuts where they are needed.
That was my thought too.
I love the content! informative and entertaining. the time laps are perfect editing. The tack count was really funny.
Thanks so much, glad you enjoyed it!
Damn, that s2k is clean!
Dude, clecos are a game changer when it comes to anything sheet metal related. Love the side clamps for flat panel work. Killer video as always man.
Yeah they make it go way smoother, thanks for watching dude!
@lock_to_lock yeah buddy. Merry Christmas. Hope Santa brought you some wisecos for the SR.
Letssss goooo ❤
Thanks for the informative video. Though I'm a bit worried about your method of drilling holes into the fender without coating them for rust protection before mounting the flares/arches.
Nice. I need to do this too for mine, since i only used carbon fiber bondo to sealed it 4-5 years ago. Good video! Very informative.
Since i will be repainting the car, i will need do this as well.
Glad it was helpful! Can't beat the peace of mind having it sealed off from the elements
the arch is very well done! way better, safer and nicer then most people do.
but before putting on that black stoneguard stuff on the bare metal i wouldve at least primered the arches twice. especially on bare metal you need to build a proper paint build up.
and especially when that part gets basically sandblasted by the tire all the time.
if that car is more then just a trailer queen then there will be bare metal again very fast.
also you didnt speak about what you do to the inside of the wheelarches i think? if the car isnt properly protected there as well, rust will eventually form on the welds.
btw. i think rivnuts are great for kits like that. its a good thing if you can remove your kit without a hassle to repair maybe a crack, repaint a part quickly, fix your inner arches or just clean behind it.
🤷♂️
Good point on the primer before applying rocker guard, I will do that in the future! As for the inside portion I will certainly look into using a weldable primer.
Rivnuts are great in many cases, but imo they look goofy on widebody.
@@lock_to_lock id use at least some rust protection wax on the inside of the arches. on an s2000 bit hard to reach every inch of the arch but it is possible and the car is protected.
Good points. They should be primed, then seam sealed. Then put that rockchip stuff over it.
Great video! Saving it for later. The previous owner of my S2K butchered the fenders when he tried rolling/pulling them. As a result, I'll probably go wide-body eventually.
This was an awesome video, I am definitely saving this video for my first widebody install.
Thanks for watching!
I was so worried about botching my wide body but this is perfect!
You’ve got this!!
100% how I do it other than a full weld, great job.
Thanks for watching!
Nice work. I do somewhat question the utility of heating the steel with just a heat gun, given the critical temperature for that particular metal, as opposed to just whaling on it with a big hammer. Still, hard to argue with your results.
As for your opinions regarding *rivnuts*, however... I just can't abide that. I mean, button head socket caps are just so *pretty*! 🤣🤣🤣
The heat gun was just for getting the metal a little more pliable, but yeah, a big hammer works too! 😉
Man, your content is worth way more views.
Subscribed.
Question: Shouldn't you run a rubber 3M T-seal between the flares and body?
Appreciate the love, Thanks for watching!
You definitely can run a seal on the flares, but I don't think it is absolutely necessary. The customer needed this job done quickly so I made it happen with what he gave me.
Awesome video!! 👌 nicely done bro
Glad you liked it
this was extremely informative! Great video man.
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching!
Very nice work man! I have to cut mine also the right way the 2nd time, 1st was a quick cut no one needs to see what that looked like but 2853018 18x11 square rubs a lil bit. hahahaha!
Big meats! Lol thanks for watching!
whats that one bracket on the driver side on top of the coil mount nut?
edit: LHT master cylinder brace, reducing fire wall flex and braking better.
how did it feel after install?
Great video, I'll definitely be doing the same when I install my wide body kit, with the front guards, they don't have an inner guard that needs to be cut does it?
On most cars, the front typically has a plastic splash guard that will either need trimmed or removed.
@@lock_to_lock awesome, thanks so much for the info 👍
Beautiful! Any idea the type of side skirts on the s2?
J’s
Hey man great video… question, whats the cut off wheel you are using on that grinder
4-1/2” cut off disc 1/16” thick
Great video! Just one question: Are you holes
Drilled for the rivets on the quarter panel susceptible to rust?
Possibly over a really long period of time, but water doesn’t typically collect in those areas so I don’t imagine it’ll be an issue.
Possibly over a really long period of time, but water doesn’t typically collect in those areas so I don’t imagine it’ll be an issue.
Excellent work, super informative and helpful!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it ✌🏼
could you also use a fender wheel/puller to flatten the extra metal to meet the cut?
Yes you can! I’ve seen it done that way with great success. Thanks for watching!
NP...great videos are always worth watching
Rivet nuts, because the widebody attaches to both the body AND the front/rear bumpers. If I have to remove the bumpers for any reason, I don't feel like drilling a bunch of rivets
Rivet nuts JUST on the bumpers are ok. On the actual body though, rivets look better imo. Thanks for watching!
Rivnuts are essential to my flares working for me at all. If I couldn't take them off, I couldn't align the car.
Totally understandable. I just think rivets look cleaner, but they don't work in every case! Thanks for watching!
Looks good. NEXT MOD. BRAKES!
Nice work brutha
Thanks!
Thanks! This is a great tutorial!
Glad it was helpful!
great stuff, quality work
Appreciate that!
Also, the only thing that worried me about this project is welding in such proximity to the fuel neck/ filler cap.
Nothing caught fire, luckily!
Hey that’s awesome work Alex my son is wanting to the same on a Subaru legacy wagon but he’s having issues getting the wide body kit wondering if you’d be able to help us out, we live in Vancouver Bc Canada thx hope to hear from you
Thanks! I’m not too familiar with the Subaru Legacy aftermarket unfortunately.
Great tutorial.
Thank you! Cheers!
Hey what machine u use
Hobart 190
if someone was trying to get it done wit you, how much you charge?👀
Reach out to me on Instagram for a quote! @lock_to_lock
is this method applicable on 2016 mustang? i mean heating the inner fenders and hammer them when they r new and not sliced ? or do i need to sliced them so i can stretch them like u did? cuz i dont know man if they were new and the gap is big , i feel it not gonna stretch till it meet the otter fenders
It should be applicable as most modern cars have an inner and outer fender skin. But I would do my own research first before chopping your car up!
@@lock_to_lock thanks for ur reply, i did alot of searching, unfortunately not too much videos for mustangs, and the videos i found all of them doing the slice bend method, it seems like ill take my chances doing it
Would still avoid cutting slices if you can, I'd bet you there is plenty of material to hammer up to close that gap after cutting your arch. You got this!
Wish you were in Chicagoland area and help me install a widebody!
Bring it to Texas! 🤣
Hey. Where in Texas you located? Curious on how much this cost ?
I’m in San Antonio, hit me up on IG @lock_to_lock
Tack
Tack it up! 🤘
what about the primer you can see?
The car is going to be repainted, the customer wanted me to go ahead and mount the overs in the mean time so he could drive the car at an event.
@@lock_to_lock So point proven for using rivnuts? He now has to take it back off to paint it lol Wide bodies absolutely come of fairly regularly on cars that see the track.
@@damonpeters900 rivets can be drilled out very easily. Rivnuts are ugly idc what anyone says lol
@@lock_to_lock being ugly is an entirely invalid argument for this video 😂 In the video you claim "stop pretending you're going to take the wide body off". Wrong. Wide bodies become a wear item on track cars and they do come off. Rivnuts can be re used and take 30 seconds to remove the panel. Rivets have to be drilled out and restocked every time you take the panel off. You don't have to like rivnuts but this video and your reasons for it make you sound like a moron. No one is saying rivnuts look good. But on a track car they just make sense.
wow, thats clean..
Thanks!
if thats clean id like to sell you your next race car ... well it was 2 cars before lol.... we do it different in the uk mostly custom fabbed steel arch liners then custom plastic liners ... to avoid rush noise etc
What was the point of the Clecos? If your hole isn’t spot on, the rivet will also be in the wrong spot. If your hole is spot on, just drill and rivet.
You added a temporary fastener, then swapped out for a permanent.
Adding to my last comment, it’s WAY easier to crack fiberglass with rivets than rivet nuts.
If you don’t wanna use Clecos man, don’t use them lol.
@ 🙄 I’m not the one with a “stop doing this” “my way is better” video
If you wanna look like a hack, do it your way boss 🫡
@ Bahahaha. I knew you couldn’t keep your composure. That ego was just ready to burst. Have fun with your clecos. Those rears could have been installed in under 2 hours. J’s Racing, ASM, Spoon… all of them.
Haha thanks for watching
just missing ITB's
akira nakai should take notes.. 😂😂😂
🤣🤣
Sorry bud, this is slightly better than the slit technique but this is still not the right way to do it.
The right way is to cut the high line on the outer skin. cut the inner skin and separate where the 2 seams meet if you can. Roll a sheet and swage a flange line ideally but not necessary. Can either lap weld using stitches spaced 25-50mm apart or if you made the flange spot weld.
Then stitch weld the rolled tub you made 25-50mm apart and cut the excess and seal everything up.
Essentially it's the same but comes out a lot cleaner and doesn't warp the outer skin. Fully welded is not necessary.
That's certainly one way to do it! Thanks for watching, bud!
I’m all for people doing things their way, but most of the logic for not doing the tab method and not using rivet nuts is flimsy at best.
Tabs and seam sealer or sika flex works very well. It doesn’t take a ton of time. You don’t need welding equipment. Obviously, the way that was done on that car before was trash. But let’s not pretend tabs can’t be don’t cleanly.
As for the rivets vs rivet nuts…no. Rivets are ugly #1. #2, there’s always a possibility you need to swap a flare or bumper. Screws take less than a minute to remove. Rivets require drilling and more times than not… THEY SPIN.
To each their own! Thanks for watching! 🤘
I skipped the first step and snapped my fingers at the car but it didn't weld like shown, this video is terrible.
jk lol
LOL 😂
stop pretending you know how it is done correctly....
You’re proud of me..right??
Widebody kits are dumb, that is all.