HONDA XR100 Crankshaft Plate Removal

1996 HONDA XR100 crankshaft plate removal.
A new crankshaft assembly is no longer available through parts warehouses, so this video offers a solution for removing the metal plate from the crankshaft in order to separate the two halves of the crankshaft from the crank pin.

[@glennmoore6805]

You got it off. Sorry for all the problems

[@ronporteous1411]

No problems, only challenges to solutions.

[@stansmith4189]

Ive found if u push the crank pin in the direction of the oil slinger plate the plate pos out without any damage so u can re use it

[@ronporteous1411]

Thanks Stan. That was my first thought as well but I couldn't find a sturdy tube that would go outside the plate yet support the crankshaft in my press. So the slinger plate had to go first.

[@cspicer33ssimons22]

Yeah. I don’t think so. Don’t anyone try this or you risk the chance of running the big end pin into the journal of the crank bearing.

[@philippethomassin1984]

Hello can you tell me how to put the new crankshaft plate back in place after changing the connecting rod because I can't do it... Or if you have a video that shows how to do it, for my part it gets in the way, and distorted every time... Thanks you for your answer

[@ronporteous1411]

Philippe - I haven't gotten there yet but when I do, I'll post that video as well. If you like these videos, please subscribe to my channel.

[@philippethomassin1984]

@@ronporteous1411 OK thanks for your answer 😉

[@cspicer33ssimons22]

Still no answer. Guess he didn’t get it. I’m running into the same issue.
I already have my crank and rod pressed together and tru’d. Can seem to get the centrifugal oil filter back in. My rod clearance is at .006. So I’m going to press off the side with the cover. Place the cover in the freezer and then heat the crankshaft web up in the oven and then lay it flat on the press and see if it will go in that way. Then press the other half back in until I get my .006” clearance.

[@cspicer33ssimons22]

Update-
Used my grill and slowly heated one half or the crank too about 220 degrees using a temp gun to monitor. Oil plate had been in the deep freeze for a day. Placed crank web flat on the press. Light coat of oil on the rubber seal and around plate and crank web. Used some thick shims that were just bigger than the outside of the plate I had laying around. Used a steel pinion seal driver and pressed it in. It made a big pop noise and was fully seated.