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This was a 2001 Honda XR100. I ran across that same issue myself on an XR80 a couple years ago. I don't know what year it was, and I don't recall how I remedied the problem. My spreadsheet indicates the part number for the XR100 head is 12200-KA8-010 on engines built in 1981-1982, then the part number changes to 12200-KA9-680 on 1983-1984 engines then back to 12200-KA8-010 from '88-'91 and from 1993-2000. The part number changed again to 12200-KN4-A61 for the head on engines built from 2001-2003. In 2004 the CRF100F took over and is listed as 12200-KN4-A61. So basically, I'm seeing three different part numbers for the head but I honestly can't tell you what the differences are.

@ronporteous1411 Very interesting. What i have is a 1998 frame. I got the bike at an estate sale. So will never know the whole story. But the engine looks like top end was either in the process of being put back together or taken apart. I seen a oem honda box with used piston rings. But I decided to disassemble to make sure everything was done correctly. Which glad I did. Found the lower chain tensioner stud threads stripped. So helicoiled it correctly. But upon the assembly I couldn't get the gear to set on the camshaft. Like I'm a link or 2 too short. I counted the links and I keep counting 88 links. When everything online and in parts diagrams shows a chain with 90 links. Seriously weird. I have a cam gear with 30 teeth. And a crankshaft sprocket with 15 teeth. But where does a 88 link come from, I see nothing anywhere online of a 88 link cam chain. Now if you look at a xr80 the link count is indeed 88links. But an xr80 has 17 tooth crankshaft sprocket. It's not likely I have an xr80 case with the crank sprocket of the xr100 because they are not supposed to be interchangeable. Also the case has never been split. No rounded bolts and no signs anyone has split the case. Also the stator/flywheel has never been removed. Same thing. No signs of rounded corners on nut. Even a good quality snapon will still leave a mark I'm sure. So nobody could of done any kind of swap. Only way to get the chain out, is split case and remove, or pulled stator and the seal cap behind it and drop chain thru hole. I'm positive nobody been in there. But an 88 link chain? Even says Japan and 25 on links. I'm really puzzled. Definately love a challenge, dang, this one has me good. I ran an AI search, for what it's worth. It had told me there was a height difference in heads, so first thought was someone has a different year head. AI search tells me the piston cylinders were all the same thru all years. I'm short approx 1-2 links. Or equivalent to say 1/4" more height to get the cam gear on camshaft. That would be a snug fit probably. Before the tensioner eve factor in. But I'm going to try a 90 link chain and see if the 2 links allow me to get the gear onto camshaft. At this point there had to of been a 1/4"-ish difference in head height where cam carrier sets. Odd because you can look on partzilla parts diagram, and I check most years from 1995-2001 and they are all 90links and 30 tooth cam gear. And the crank gears were also all 15 tooth. Maybe there were a few protype engines out there or something. Would love to share this issue with other. And perhaps educate one another and learn. I'm well versed in all kinds of engines. At first I really thought maybe I was doing something wrong, because it is an odd and unique tension system compared to many other machines. But removing it completely I was like, hmmm. Problem is not a guide or tensioner. Let me know if anything comes to your mind please. And I will gladly let you know once I figure out what's up and get it fired up and share the knowledge. Knowledge is power. It's always hard finding the right people with tribal knowledge. At this point I suspect the head has been changed. But the other kicker is the head and entire engine assembly match perfect really. Patina" and corrosion ect ect. If that makes sense. I'm one to pay attention to the littlest details. So much is unexplainable at this point. And I can't build a story with it. Atleast not yet. I ran numbers on the case and they seem to come back as an xr100 case year. Anybody else has some solid knowledge, more than happy to listen. Thanks

@@justinz4250 I think your mystery was solved in your second sentence "the engine looks like top end was either in the process of being put back together or taken apart". The Facebook pages dedicated to the XR80-XR100 bikes have produced discussions about mounting an 80 head onto a 100 motor. I personally don't see the benefit in that, but it would make sense to install a shorter chain to accommodate the 80 head. Also, it's always a fun challenge to take on someone else's project to completion. Thanks for watching, Justin and a great conversation.

Thank you, Michael.

Find me on Facebook and send me a private message.

Thank you, I hope it was helpful.

@@ronporteous1411 Rebuilding one at the moment, stay tuned!

Looking forward to hear how it went.

Trying to find duty-free music to accompany a video can sometimes be a pain in the frontal lobe. I tend to agree with you on this one, so maybe the mute button would be a better option.

I'm glad you enjoyed it! It was a good time for Speedway in Auburn.

Thank you!

I made it. It's a piece of 3/8" round stock. I drilled a hole down the middle using a mini lathe and added a set screw to hold the valve in place.

@@ronporteous1411 thank you sir!

​@@ronporteous1411 that is brilliant and simple 👍🏽🇺🇸

Thank you very much . I hope this helps.

Thank you! That means a lot to me.

There's only 2 ways oil can get into the combustion chamber, rings or valve guide seals. So be sure to replace the seals and check the ring fit in the new cylinder before tearing down your motor. Cheers.

This flow bench is the tool you need to verify the changes you make in your engine cylinder head. I am in the process of making a video explaining how it is used to compare before and after changes made in the head ports. The nice thing about this machine is it can be created using inexpensive plumbing parts and an old vacuum cleaner. I recommend you obtain the book "How to Port and Flow Test Cylinder Heads" by David Vizard for a better explanation of the process.

@@ronporteous1411awesome! That’s exactly what I’m needing it for. Thanks so much for sharing! Can you provide everything else you used to get the flow readings that you mounted on the wall above?

@@David-tv3mg It's just PVC and clear tubing with colored water. I purchased the adhesive-backed measuring tape from Amazon along with the tubing. I think I used 3/16 ID clear plastic tubing and obtained the fittings from the Home Depot. The rest is stuff I had littering the lab. I have a crude detail of the manometers but can't figure out how to send it to you through this medium. Try contacting me through Facebook, I think I might be able to get the details to you there

⁠@@ronporteous1411 I think I found you on Facebook and sent you a message. Thanks again!

Did you get the information you needed?@@David-tv3mg

I'm glad I could help.

Rock and Roll, David! Thanks for watching. Full disclosure - I was racing Speedway in Northern California for 10 years before I collided with the wall in turn 3 at Cal-Expo in Sacramento. When I came back to consciousness my helmet was off, my gloves were off, my 2-piece leather jacket was off and my boots were off. The first thing I heard was "hey, there he is". That ended my Speedway racing career, so I picked up my camcorder and started recording my friends. Thanks again for watching!

Excellent suggestion. I'm currently working on a HONDA Xr100 big bore installation video. I'll do the flow bench video after so subscribe to my channel and you'll be informed when I post it.

​@@ronporteous1411great. Will subscribe. Thanks

Thanks Stan. That was my first thought as well but I couldn't find a sturdy tube that would go outside the plate yet support the crankshaft in my press. So the slinger plate had to go first.

Yeah. I don’t think so. Don’t anyone try this or you risk the chance of running the big end pin into the journal of the crank bearing.

Thank you!

Thank you! I spend a lot of time there 😃

Philippe - I haven't gotten there yet but when I do, I'll post that video as well. If you like these videos, please subscribe to my channel.

@@ronporteous1411 OK thanks for your answer 😉

Still no answer. Guess he didn’t get it. I’m running into the same issue. I already have my crank and rod pressed together and tru’d. Can seem to get the centrifugal oil filter back in. My rod clearance is at .006. So I’m going to press off the side with the cover. Place the cover in the freezer and then heat the crankshaft web up in the oven and then lay it flat on the press and see if it will go in that way. Then press the other half back in until I get my .006” clearance.

Update- Used my grill and slowly heated one half or the crank too about 220 degrees using a temp gun to monitor. Oil plate had been in the deep freeze for a day. Placed crank web flat on the press. Light coat of oil on the rubber seal and around plate and crank web. Used some thick shims that were just bigger than the outside of the plate I had laying around. Used a steel pinion seal driver and pressed it in. It made a big pop noise and was fully seated.

No problems, only challenges to solutions.

Rocky recommends you adjust your clutch so that it slips a little. Your clutch should be warm to the touch after several laps of racing. If it's hot, it's slipping too much. If it's cold, it's not slipping enough.

@@ronporteous1411 thank you !!!!! so much respect from italy !!!! 💪💪💪

This occurred in a garage in Roseville, California

Thanks

@@ronporteous1411 also is this a attraction where every one can see or just something for fun