How to Fake Long Exposure In Photoshop - Photo Editing Demo of a Black and White Seascape
Вставка
- Опубліковано 7 жов 2024
- No Neutral Density filter? No problem. This Photoshop technique is great for faking long exposures. Of course I recommend shooting it right in camera with an ND filter, but if, like me, you find yourself on location without one this is a great technique to help realise your vision of long exposure photography in Photoshop. And it's pretty easy to do.
In this photo editing demo, I show how I built layers to create a fine art seascape image from my original photo. We look at creating motion in the clouds and sea with the path blur filter. This allows us to emulate the effect of a long exposure and blur the movement of the clouds as if we had a neutral density filter on the lens.
My favourite plugin to use is the AI powerhouse Luminar. I used it here to enhance the fine art and ethereal feel with the mystical filter, but I use the software now on just about every image for the extra options it gives me.
You can pick up a copy here: bit.ly/2vxUi2b_...
and feel free to use the discount code: ATSKY10
I share my favourite simple technique to control the brightness of a black and white image with a dodge and burn layer. Simply painting on a grey layer set to either overlay or soft light mode.
We add a light bleed by painting directly on the photoshop layer with a large soft brush.
Curves are an invaluable tool for controlling contrast in your photo edits. Here I show how I add a bit of contrast in the photo. Now things are really starting to take shape.
The finished image simply involves a bit of cloning out of birds on the sand and pier and adding a layer of film grain. Nowadays the most realistic film grain is available through the blur gallery! Yup, you read that right! A strange place to put it but it gives great results. I didn't show how I applied it in the video but basically, it was applied over a 50% grey layer so the blur had zero effect but the grain was visible. This layer was then changed to overlay mode.
Thanks for watching. If this was helpful to you, I'd love it if you could share the love with a thumbs up. And if you're keen to see more, why not subscribe? It's free :)
My studio set up:
🖥️ Monitor: amzn.to/346A64E
🎤 Microphone: amzn.to/331DAGw
📷 Camera: amzn.to/3j3fQan
📷 Lens: amzn.to/2RZzV5M
------------------
🚥 Coloured Lights: amzn.to/2RXBuRA
🚥 Hub to control the lights: amzn.to/367y0nF
💡 Salt Lamp: amzn.to/364xiHQ
My Camera Equipment:
📷 Camera: amzn.to/3j3fQan
📷 My Wide Angle Lens: amzn.to/3j9I1Vb
📷 Nifty fifty: amzn.to/3ifmY2t
📷 Mid-range zoom: amzn.to/33Xltkc
📷 Telephoto Lens: amzn.to/3cBAyMo
📷 Tripod Head for architecture: amzn.to/30cbJBq
These are affiliate links to the equipment I use - they are not sponsored by the manufacturer in any way. If you use these links it costs you no more than normal, but the small commission I get helps me to be able to keep providing free content for you guys. Thank you 🙏
I really liked the edit you did in Lightroom but you've really created something beautiful here! Thank you for sharing your tips :)
Thank you so much!
Thanks
There's also another technique using a sequence of shots from a tripod and utilising the 'mean' filter in PS to fake a long exposure. Different variables which create a more realistic outcome but is more camera work than software work. Both techniques have advantages over the other though.
That's a great point Dakman. If you shoot a series the technique you mentioned is another option. Cheers for bringing it up. :)
Another amazing video! Could I request a video dedicated to export settings in Lightroom, PS, Luminar, and perhaps Aurora if you feel it's appropriate? I'm good with toggling the programs but once it comes to how to best export from which without degrading my image is SO challenging!
Hi there Khadijah! Lovely to see you've been watching some of my vids :) What are you wanting to export to? What's your primary concern? Highest quality? Optimized for social media? Putting on your website etc.? Every scenario requires a different approach... Which sounds daunting but it's really not. Thanks for the video request. Give me a bit more info on what you're after and I'll see what I can do :)
@@AnthonyTurnham thank you SO much for engaging with us, really means a lot! saw your response of your other video as well! so i am an amateur starting off, i would say i'm mainly exporting for my or my client's use on a website and social media (instagram and facebook). i mainly send images via google drive to clients. along with that, im also unsure how to export or rather move images between programs. like, how do i export best to move a "finished" image to the next program, like from LR to Luminar for example. so i move it as a raw image, a jpg, a png? so many options, only a few are right!
Hi Khadijah. Thanks for elaborating. I think a video explaining the differences and when to use what file type would be a good idea. Watch this space and I'll see what I can do for you... :)
A rough idea though (of course there are exceptions but these are a good guide)...
Always work in, and capture in raw rather than jpeg
psd - always for photoshop
tiff (16bit) for files that you want to send between apps like luminar, Photoshop and LR
jpeg as a final export for web or client delivery (8 bit sRGB colour space)
png for images that require transparency (logos etc.) but not much else
Hope that helps :)
How did you bring the pier back? When you used content aware to remove was that on a new layer?
I talk on it at 6:30
yeah..but the sea is not long exposure
Did you stay till the end of the video? I talk about the sea blur towards the end.