I've never thought that hard about shoes, so this is quite handy! Even more generally than just relating to cracks. Useful cuz I need to buy new shoes...
the same principles apply when you are doing standard climbing. each shoe has its specific roll. there are probably some other good videos around to watch which suggest good shoes for slabs, bouldering, sport climbing, steep stuff, etc. Do your research before you purchase :)
Finally! I’ve looked for this information in books, on UA-cam, asking climbing friends, etc. for ages and couldn’t find it. Thanks so much! For folks that don’t recognize the shoes, could you add the shoe names for each crack size? Much less important but for which I’m curious, why didn’t you use a TC Pro for offwidth demonstration rather than a sneaker? Thanks again for the video. You and Tom share the best crack instructional videos!
amazing! glad you found it useful :) yeh we get this question all the time and we couldn't find another video about it, so it seemed obvious to make one! in regards to the TC Pro, we just didn't have one to hand (or any high top climbing shoe for that matter), hence why I just found a trainer that was a hightop, but I obviously don't recommend climbing in this, haha. The shoes that I show are 1:25 BD Focus 1:46 5.10 Mocc 3:28 in my left hand an Unparallel shoe I can't remember the name of 4:32 5.10 anasazi Pro 9:00 some random shoe, haha (but If i'd had one to hand, then either a TC Pro, 5.10 Grandstone or those Evolve things would have been a good example. Butora also make a super stiff hightop thing. great for offwidths but the performance on anything else is a bit crap, thats what I found anyway) 12:40 some Scarpa slipper I can't remember the model name of. Hope thats helpful
haha, just wanted to clarify about the feet. have you ever tried climbing with your shoes in the wrong feet (left on right, right on left). I tried it once, very odd experience. you really have to be ultra precise with your big toe placements....and you look like a plonker, haha. Makes you place your feet well though!
Do you have any more specific questions about this topic? please feel free to ask us in the comments :) Don't forget to subscribe --> ua-cam.com/users/wideboyz For those that want to know the shoes I was holding. see timestamps below 1:25 BD Focus 1:46 5.10 Mocc 3:28 in my left hand an Unparallel shoe I can't remember the name of 4:32 5.10 anasazi Pro 9:00 some random shoe, haha (but If i'd had one to hand, then either a TC Pro, 5.10 Grandstone or those Evolve things would have been a good example. Butora also make a super stiff hightop thing. great for offwidths but the performance on anything else is a bit crap, thats what I found anyway). There are lots of other shoes across all brands which have all the features I talk about in the vid, its just about finding the brand that fits your foot, then finding the features you're looking for, in that brands range...hope that makes sense :)
wonder if we can find something else mundane to talk about and make it vaguely exciting. reckon we could do 13 minutes on how to lace your shoes for crack climbing??
Jack Lambert-Taylor we've tried barefoot on really thin cracks to try and fit the toes I more easily. I didn't find it all that effective, but I know folk like Mason Earle have used it to good effect. Or you could do it for the skin abrasion. Whatever floats ye boat 😉
I was wondering if you guys could do another video on footwork but specifically for cracks that are wider than your foot but smaller than your knee. I feel like I have most technique for other sizes down but this one is driving me crazy! Please help!
we'll cover, hand positioning, inside leg positioning and outside foot positioning. lots a techniques all in a single package. its a few weeks away this one though
I remember Tom doing this and walking around at the base with both toes pointing up directly to the sky. bit awkward on the hand crack start (funny angle needed with the feet)...but once bedded in for the offwidth section, he did it first go, classic
Great video!! Just curious though, I have never seen you guys wearing La Sportiva TC pros. I found them to be the best shoes for crack climbing but I am curious as to why you guys never wear them? Thanks!
We had sponsorship deals with 5.10 for the last...many many years. We are now not officially with any shoe brand. I have climbed in the TC pros and do think they are very good at the job they were built for. i.e. precise edging and easy to low end difficult crack climbing, and also long days on big walls. If things start to get thin and technical with the feet then I think there are better options, as the TC pros are still quite bulky. from large thin hands and up the TC pros do a solid job
you mean we should be living in The States? We've always said its good to live somewhere with rubbish crack climbing, because then we can get on with the training and not get distracted ;)
Yes I really like the Pros for crack climbing. really good for the pure cracks in the desert. lots of boot rubber and comoftable across the toes. If you're doing lots of crack climbing though, it can get painful down the side of the ankles from twisting alot. We've both had thise problem when climbing in Indian Creek for many days and wearing low ankle shoes
It depends on the type of holds on the slab. depnding on the hold it can massively vary what you wear on your feet. If you're trying to stand on little dinky edges, you'll want something stiff. A stiff shoe and a stiff rubber (don't want the rubber to roll). If you're going to climb smeary slabs, then you'll need to have a softer shoe, which spreads the surface area of the ball of your foot across the smear you are trying to stand on. Different slabs and routes need different shoes. wearing the incorrect one, is like trying to eat your cereal with a fork...
TC Pro is pretty much the go to shoe these days it seems for crack climbing. I've never tried the BD aspect but they look a right, no ankle protection though. I've also liked using the 5.10 anasazi Pro in the past because of the toe rubber, however they can soften up more quickly, which I guess has boths positives and negatives to it
Slightly disappointed in Pete here. I know it's not his fault but I was expecting someone to pass him wellies for the hi top demo. Great video. Really helpful.
2:35 "Obviously you want a left and a right..." Ha ha ha ha ha brilliant XD
just clarifying, you never know some people might not get that. Have to be clear about these things, haha
0:00 Intro
0:35 Finger cracks
2:47 Thin handcracks
4:05 Handcracks
5:45 Fistcracks
7:45 Off-width
Thanks useful for people to use these
there's not even mountains in my country, let alone cracks, yet im still so entertained watching this video lol. great job\
I promise there is cracks in your country 🤣
soooo... when are the wideboyz climbing shoes coming out? 😜
I've thought about that in my head quite a few times now. probably not for a while or ever. who knows
I've never thought that hard about shoes, so this is quite handy! Even more generally than just relating to cracks.
Useful cuz I need to buy new shoes...
the same principles apply when you are doing standard climbing. each shoe has its specific roll. there are probably some other good videos around to watch which suggest good shoes for slabs, bouldering, sport climbing, steep stuff, etc. Do your research before you purchase :)
Finally! I’ve looked for this information in books, on UA-cam, asking climbing friends, etc. for ages and couldn’t find it. Thanks so much! For folks that don’t recognize the shoes, could you add the shoe names for each crack size? Much less important but for which I’m curious, why didn’t you use a TC Pro for offwidth demonstration rather than a sneaker? Thanks again for the video. You and Tom share the best crack instructional videos!
amazing! glad you found it useful :)
yeh we get this question all the time and we couldn't find another video about it, so it seemed obvious to make one!
in regards to the TC Pro, we just didn't have one to hand (or any high top climbing shoe for that matter), hence why I just found a trainer that was a hightop, but I obviously don't recommend climbing in this, haha. The shoes that I show are
1:25 BD Focus
1:46 5.10 Mocc
3:28 in my left hand an Unparallel shoe I can't remember the name of
4:32 5.10 anasazi Pro
9:00 some random shoe, haha (but If i'd had one to hand, then either a TC Pro, 5.10 Grandstone or those Evolve things would have been a good example. Butora also make a super stiff hightop thing. great for offwidths but the performance on anything else is a bit crap, thats what I found anyway)
12:40 some Scarpa slipper I can't remember the model name of.
Hope thats helpful
Wide Boyz Yes...very helpful!
@@WideBoyz The Unparallel looks like a Regulus, the Scarpa an Instinct SR. I think?
"Obviously you want a left and a right"
"What's soft? ... candy floss"
"Banana-foot"
You're killing me this episode! XD
haha, just wanted to clarify about the feet. have you ever tried climbing with your shoes in the wrong feet (left on right, right on left). I tried it once, very odd experience. you really have to be ultra precise with your big toe placements....and you look like a plonker, haha. Makes you place your feet well though!
Awesome content. Big thanks from 3 years later. And I’m sure I’m not the only one new to crack climbing who’s benefitting! Hooray for crack school!
Do you have any more specific questions about this topic? please feel free to ask us in the comments :)
Don't forget to subscribe --> ua-cam.com/users/wideboyz
For those that want to know the shoes I was holding. see timestamps below
1:25 BD Focus
1:46 5.10 Mocc
3:28 in my left hand an Unparallel shoe I can't remember the name of
4:32 5.10 anasazi Pro
9:00 some random shoe, haha (but If i'd had one to hand, then either a TC Pro, 5.10 Grandstone or those Evolve things would have been a good example. Butora also make a super stiff hightop thing. great for offwidths but the performance on anything else is a bit crap, thats what I found anyway).
There are lots of other shoes across all brands which have all the features I talk about in the vid, its just about finding the brand that fits your foot, then finding the features you're looking for, in that brands range...hope that makes sense :)
Was thinking about this yesterday, perfect timing.
amazing, glad we got it out for you then
YES!!!! My weekend has just been made by Pete talking about shoes! Who’d have thought it 😂😂
wonder if we can find something else mundane to talk about and make it vaguely exciting. reckon we could do 13 minutes on how to lace your shoes for crack climbing??
@@WideBoyz Potentially some sort of painting program?
@@sessionmediaa painting a crack? but which crack...where? hmmmmm
Gotta love crackschool and bananashoe
we love it it all.
I like the sound of the coat... Feels outdoorsy :P
Are you practicing being sponsored? XD
thats becuase its so blumming cold in that place, and these were filmed in winter. It's colder inside then it is outside usually
@@WideBoyz
Sounds like the factory I'm in.
For the algorithm as usual 🙂
Fun stuff!! If love a primer on all the different tape gloves. Skinny fat etc. Fingers hands fists. Yea all that
James Re yes we'll be moving on two some taping suggestions for different cracks in some layer vids. It's in the ideas box 😀 thanks
I'd also recommend bare-foot on granite, for maximum skin abrasion
Jack Lambert-Taylor we've tried barefoot on really thin cracks to try and fit the toes I more easily. I didn't find it all that effective, but I know folk like Mason Earle have used it to good effect. Or you could do it for the skin abrasion. Whatever floats ye boat 😉
I was wondering if you guys could do another video on footwork but specifically for cracks that are wider than your foot but smaller than your knee. I feel like I have most technique for other sizes down but this one is driving me crazy! Please help!
Ah yes, the dreaded size, we have a full 10+ minute of this size coming, in the coming weeks. its been requested a lot we are prepping it :)
we'll cover, hand positioning, inside leg positioning and outside foot positioning. lots a techniques all in a single package. its a few weeks away this one though
Wide Boyz yes! I can’t wait! Thanks guys! 🙏🤘
sebastian beers it's been heavily requested that size, so had to get it done 👍
8:45 Ha ha ha nice catch! Especially for the one-take x')
I think that was just 1 take as well. smashed it
10:17 Banana foot, clown shoes and how to turn your feet into cams!
I remember Tom doing this and walking around at the base with both toes pointing up directly to the sky. bit awkward on the hand crack start (funny angle needed with the feet)...but once bedded in for the offwidth section, he did it first go, classic
Fancy making some comparison videos. Tc pro vs butora altura vs BD aspect maybe. Would be cool to know you views
It's not really something we can do as we're both Unparallel athletes now
Great video!! Just curious though, I have never seen you guys wearing La Sportiva TC pros. I found them to be the best shoes for crack climbing but I am curious as to why you guys never wear them? Thanks!
We had sponsorship deals with 5.10 for the last...many many years. We are now not officially with any shoe brand. I have climbed in the TC pros and do think they are very good at the job they were built for. i.e. precise edging and easy to low end difficult crack climbing, and also long days on big walls. If things start to get thin and technical with the feet then I think there are better options, as the TC pros are still quite bulky. from large thin hands and up the TC pros do a solid job
@@WideBoyz a year later I can confidently say that I absolutely love finger cracks... and that TC pros are awful for them haha
It's going to be brilliant.
What the heck are two of the best crack specialists in the world still doing in the UK?
you mean we should be living in The States? We've always said its good to live somewhere with rubbish crack climbing, because then we can get on with the training and not get distracted ;)
Just got a pair of anasazi pros and love them
Yes I really like the Pros for crack climbing. really good for the pure cracks in the desert. lots of boot rubber and comoftable across the toes. If you're doing lots of crack climbing though, it can get painful down the side of the ankles from twisting alot. We've both had thise problem when climbing in Indian Creek for many days and wearing low ankle shoes
It has to be said, honnold did belly full of bad berries in testarosa's must have been brutal on the feet.
yeh but its honnold isn't it. He doesn't feel pain
What type of shoes would you recommend for Font? Especially slabs...
It depends on the type of holds on the slab. depnding on the hold it can massively vary what you wear on your feet. If you're trying to stand on little dinky edges, you'll want something stiff. A stiff shoe and a stiff rubber (don't want the rubber to roll). If you're going to climb smeary slabs, then you'll need to have a softer shoe, which spreads the surface area of the ball of your foot across the smear you are trying to stand on. Different slabs and routes need different shoes. wearing the incorrect one, is like trying to eat your cereal with a fork...
@@WideBoyz Thanks a lot!
GiggitySam Entz no problem 👍
Nice one Pete
no problem, hope it was useful for you
So what could be the all-round crack shoe, which would help me to enter the world of crack climbing? I am thinking of LaSportiva TC pro or BD Aspect.
TC Pro is pretty much the go to shoe these days it seems for crack climbing. I've never tried the BD aspect but they look a right, no ankle protection though.
I've also liked using the 5.10 anasazi Pro in the past because of the toe rubber, however they can soften up more quickly, which I guess has boths positives and negatives to it
Is this in the book? also taping (fist and toes), is it in the book?
It's all in Pete's book Crack Climbing
So I get it Scarpa Instinct SR are not suitable for crack climbing :)
Andrey Mironov haha nailed it 👍 😉
What were the shoes Laced with?
which shoes we talking about here??
“Bananaering”
get the clown foot on the go, to prevent severe bananaing
What the hell is candy floss?
whattttt are you being serious? the pink stuff that is pure sugar
Yea dude we don't have it or call it that in America...
Looked it up....we call it cotton candy
@@matthewweimer42 ah yes, I was trying to remember the american name for it, when I was writing that last comment. Cotton candy, thats the one!
Slightly disappointed in Pete here. I know it's not his fault but I was expecting someone to pass him wellies for the hi top demo.
Great video. Really helpful.
Mike Rowland haha next time. I have tried climbing in wellies before, the rubber just isn't up to scratch!
@@WideBoyz ha ha! Why doesn't that surprise me? There was no sign of toms spatula additions either. Did you guys decide that wasn't going to work? 😂
Mike Rowland I'm sure the spatula feet willow make another appearance at some point in the future 😉
I just use my Miuras because that's all I have and I spend all my money on cams 🤷
Derek Hubbard never worn miuras but have a friend who swears by them, so I imagine they're pretty good 💪
Reebok classics are the best shoes for buying crack
Lee Williams not Nike Air?
Ummmbyeah go on then! but the air bubble at the back has to be broken
Lee Williams obviously