Geeetech A10M dual extrusion 3D printer - Incredibly capable, but is it for everyone?
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- The Geeetech A10M is an Ender 3 clone with dual extrusion and colour mixing. This 3D printer is very capable and I was amazed in this review to be able to print in so many materials and styles. The way you can create multi colour prints with or without using slicing software is a huge plus.
With the complexity a second extruder brings plus a few other quirks, I wouldn't recommend this 3D printer to the average beginner. After a few small mods and some adjustment I'm expecting trouble free printing. It's already more reliable than when I started but there has been some tweaking along the way.
If you're after dual extrusion, this is probably one of the cheapest ways to get it. Compare the price to the Creality CR-X, or a Prusa MK3 with MMU2 upgrade or even one of the Pallete machines and you'll see it is a bargain.
This printer was supplied by Geeetech for review. All opinions expressed are my own.
Purchase the Geeetech A10M from these links:
Banggood: bit.ly/2O4sDxO
Amazon: amzn.to/2pygYsm
Aliexpress: bit.ly/2IEdmhb
Geeetech Marlin Firmware 1.1.8: github.com/Gee...
Models featured in this video:
Spiral Vase: www.thingivers...
Tao dual extrusion test: www.thingivers...
Hairy Unicorn: www.thingivers...
Octopus: www.thingivers...
Dual colour octopus: www.thingivers...
Low poly pikachu: www.thingivers...
Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au
Gearbest affiliate link (help support the channel): www.gearbest.c...
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#3dprinting #a10m #review
I found this printer is very flexible I have had mine 2 days now and it prints like a dream, I did have trouble with first few prints as they came off of the bed after about 15 layers, So I upped temperature for pre-heat to 210 and bed to 65 reset the bed level, and hey presto it works great, I printed the Salamander in blue and white, looks great and no stringing at all. I have a nice clean print, Oh my fan is set to 75, I find this is adequate on all my printers.
The colour mixing on this machine is extraordinary, I am so happy with it,
I have another dual extruder machine a Tronxy A5s it is also a great little machine, (with bigger print area) but to sum up this A10m is well worth the 239 I paid for it.
Happy printing guys.
I just received mine and I already built it, I have printed 2 test prints, and it’s an amazing printer!
So you have the a10m? Do you like it? Would you recommend this over the ender 3 or the ender 3 pro??
Looks very interesting. Adding it to my list of things down the road, still need to work and tinker with my ender 3 before going dual extrusion. Thanks for the in depth, balanced, and honest reviews as always!
I just assembled the A10M today. It was painless except for the cable to the console which was finicky. I'm levelling next. I use feeler gauges instead of A4 paper (which have many different thicknesses, that make it a meaningless measurement). Out of the box were 3 spring washers, a t-bolt and 4 other assorted screws, as if they were just thrown in before the top sheet was put on. I shook another washer out of the psu. This will be blamed on vibration. As a retired design engineer I call bullshit on that, it is so well protected it makes it near impossible to happen. I've sent back an A30 to Geeetech due to the poor condition it arrived in, not due to transport but as they sent it out. My other A30 has the same Z problem you found on the A10M, hey at least they are consistent. I'm waiting for the Geeetech Rostock 301 3D printer to come out (£692.23). I will be looking out for your low-down, and solutions if needed (ROFL). Thanks for a really useful upload.
Regarding the filament spool orientation. I ordered direct from Geeetech about a week ago to ensure I got the latest stock possible, and I can confirm that YES you can change the extruder and spool orientation. They've added an extra hole on extruders and the spool holder so you can mount it whichever way you please
Great info, thanks for sharing.
As always .... great video .... proved to be my tipping point to order an A10M. Looking forward to your followup video addressing the issues you identified in this one. Keep up the great work mate .... Cheers
Planning the fixes video soon and am about to try a multi material print.
Looks like a pretty versatile printer for the price. Great review Michael.
Yet another great review. I like that it can be used for mixing and dual colour, plus of course, single colour also. It's almost like your getting 3 printers for the cost of 1. Was blown away with being able to print TPU with a bowden setup and dual colour print on top. Should try to mix once you've got the stringing issue sorted.
Me too. I haven't tried it yet but I want to try a tpu with petg or PLA mix. Rigid and flex in the same print.
The TPU to PLA temperature difference may be a challenge. But I have seen it done before using a dual nozzle setup but not a single nozzle one.
I agree with Pete - PLA to TPU is a bit of a temperature stretch. But PETG to TPU should be do-able, and would represent an interesting engineering materials mix of toughness to flexibility. Bond between the different material interfaces would probably be the biggest determinant of overalk (practical?) part strength?
Applications abound - hinges, valves, handles. Would love to see the results!
Yeah I think petg too. PLA will be too runny. Only worry is the heated bed making the tpu hard to remove. I think I would design the two materials to not just butt up to each other but interlock to aid strength.
@@TeachingTech. TPU + (my 24v heated bed) = Adhesion!!!
So we've got a print orientation issue? Try to have only the PETG touch the bed.
I like the idea of a transition zone between the materials to blend the elasticity. Kind of like finger joins in woodworking. Would love to try it!
So, the problem resolves itself into "how do I smuggle another 3d printer past my wife?"
Thanks for review this will defenitly give me something to think about because i am also concidering the new mosaic pallet 2.
Looks very interresting ... I think the main issue for most 3D Printer owners not buying a printer with multiple extruders is the lack of "How to print with multiple extruders" how-to style instructions/videos..
And for the "How to", I mean more or less the entire process, e.g design in Fusion 360 (if any special considerations are needed when creating the model, exporting the STLs and so on), the slicing process (Cura, S3D) with tool-change gcode, assignment of tool, "vitrtual extruders" if a mixing extruder is being used - and so on...
I'm planning this, just need more time.
Interesting printer
Thank for shading 😀👍
They have addressed the filament issue and they are now mounted 90 degrees so flow into the extruder easier. After this being the major issue of your review I'm now considering this as my next printer. I just sent back the Athorbot Brother dual as it was utter crap.
Awesome review...I've been curious about this one! Liked and subbed!
Thanks for watching :)
Huh! First to comment!
School holidays?
Well done, an informative, balanced review.
The disabling of the thermal protection is a bit of a worry, but your highlighting it is a sound public service. Maybe include the specific way to fix it (for the newbies) or a link to one of your previous videos on the subject?
Keep up the good work!
School holidays indeed! I'm planning an A10M 'quick fix' video where I show how to solve all of the little issues I had.
be interesting to see your followups on this
Just ordered one which comes in a week. I want to know what version of Cura works on this but info is hard to find.
amazing video. clear concise no excess beautiful.
thanks
can this print 2 types of filament at once with PVA as support material? i'm less interested in multicolor and more in printing models with complicated supports
In the A10M’s online pics, the filament is attached to the printer in another way.. parallel to the filament feeder
Mine definitely only goes one way. I've printed an adaptor and I hear it has been updated now on newer models.
filament is easy fix. rotate the extruders by 90 degrees and boom your filaments can feed directly into it. boden tubes take and redirect it to where it has to go.
Would be good if Creality introduce a Dual Extrusion upgrade for the Ender 3. I just have not got the space for another machine!
I suspect that without swapping the control board, this won't work. Not enough space for the additional firmware required?
That and no drives for more stepper motors.
The crx is their dual extension machine so they probably point you that way.
I've succombed. Gearbest currently have a flash sale on with a 30% discount so I've just placed an order for 228€. Probably 40+ days for delivery. My Ender 3 took 43 days to arrive.
15 mins later....edit I have just realized that I have missed the fact that you have an affiliate link to Gearbest. Please explain how I should use that because, normally, I just log in directly to my account with them and search for the item that you are discussing in videos such as this as I have just done with this purchase. My ignorance is costing you!
Lulzbot dual extruder V3 can do dual flexible, but not blending and it’s at a quite different price point and expected reliability.
I love your videos and even decided to purchase an A10M from your banggood link. They sent me the wrong machine and have been giving me the run around ever since. I would suggest finding another affiliate.
This printer has been a lot of trouble for me, but your videos have helped a lot. Would you consider updating your firmware for Marlin 1.1.9?
Such a well done video. Thanks.
I would be interested to know how this will work with soluble support material
I plan to try that, need to order some.
@@TeachingTech I'd like to know the answer to this too!
@@TeachingTech following
@@TeachingTech
I need to know this too
LOL, That is exactly what I was thinking !! Very exciting part of multi material printing.
In your links to the printer, the spool holder is rotated the 90 degrees like you were complaining about. Maybe they changed it since you got yours?
I was wondering the same. Or perhaps just a doctored photo.
Good review bro. It cool to see this tech coming. We ordered 5 M3D Crane Quads for my wife's school and they mix FOUR colors just like this one does two. They have a dual also but was really interested in seeing the 4 work. I think a filament hanger like the Prusa would work pretty good with one spool on each side between the 2 extruders. It will need to be extended a bit to allow for distance but the concept is more what I am talking about. I worked a bit on making multi color prints with Meshmixer to split the models and such. Dont need to do that anymore?
I think splitting in meshmixer is a great way to do it. As long as the origin is preserved when exporting the slicer can relign the parts again.
great Video ! it would be nice if u could make a tutorial to set up the new PrusaSlicer for the A10M or A20M !
Thanks Michael, just bought one from Geeetech during their November sale AU$357 with fake BL-Touch shipped. Feeling good about it thanks to yours and other creators' videos. Cheers, JAYTEE
Oh and don't forget its 24 volts as well
I would be I interested in dual extrusion for one nozzle at a time. 1 big nozzle for large prints with little detail. 1 small nozzle for high res prints
As usual another great video. Considering this printer is now about twice the cost of an Ender 3 would you still go with this over an Ender 3 and a 3D Chameleon?
I bought the A10M 2 weeks ago and I have to say it's the biggest disappointment of any printer I've bought. Fist problem, the x and y axis were very jerky like there we a couple of flat spots on the rollers. After many hours of searching I stripped the printer down and it turned out that the rollers were just to tight. Backed off the screws about an 1/8 of a turn and all was good. I had printed out a few test runs trying to diagnose the jerking problem and noticed the prints were all like tissue paper but I just ignored it thinking it was the rollers but no matter what I printed it was the same. Ran exactly the same Gcode in my Ender 3 pro and the prints turned out perfect. Thoughts turned to the firmware as I just couldn't think of anything else. It was ver 1 something of Marlin. Ran the latest ver of Marlin through Visual Studio Code and loaded straight in via the USB port. Success, printer now run reasonable well, bit of fine tuning to go but now reasonably happy. So decided to install the BL touch that Geetech sent me. Well my a10m does not look like the one in this video. For a start, the colours of the wires are not the same as the instructions that came with it. And the plugs can be fitted any way round. The 2 pin plug did have the correct colour wires and I only found the neg buy using an eye lope on the PCB. Had no idea about the power plug so took and educated guess that turned out to uneducated as I let some smoke escape from where it plugged into the hot end. And as a final whinge, it has to be the noisiest printer ever.
Just got my A10M (like my 20th printer) - and what a difference what they ship now vs what you got. I paid around 200$ for it. No ultrabase clone instead faketak sheet (not applied, thankfully so i put a ultrabase clone from creality), hotend fan is quiet, no spare nozzle even, very dinky bed, orientation of extruders and spool holders, different kind of nozzle and did not even come with sd card adapter :O
Only 1 test gcode on the card.
Your TPU test looks like wet filament which is an issue with TPU
**All that being said** First print impressions is that i am happy with it, looks faster than ender-3 with tuned profile :)
Good to know, thanks
9:57, Lets bring up the game; can you try dual color mixing TPU on this printer? Thanks
hi, loved you video and it helped me when deciding on getting into 3D printing, i bought the A10M a few months ago and was happy to see a few of the things you have mentioned in you videos have been done which made it a lot easier. i have been using petg and had no problems with it, have just gotten some abs (colours i wanted in this type) and have found it has caused nothing but problems with the feeding, it keeps stopping and the extruder gear is full of material im running it at about 240*C on the head, i have even played with the roller preassure to make it feed but still no luck, i go back to the petg and all ok, any thoughts on how to make the abs work? keep up the great work, the videos have been a big help.
Thanks for the vid! i'm seriously looking at this vs the ender 3 pro, but strongly desire a dual extruder for soluble support material. The majority of the prints i plan to do are a circular tubes to test lug joints for bike frames, and i'm assuming i'll need a lot of support material, do you think this would be a good option? Was considering upping to the Bibo 2, but would really prefer to not spend that kind of $$. have you tried the soluble material setup yet?
If you follow the link to the Amazon page you linked for this printer, you can see that the spool mounts are rotated 90 degrees from the way you have them. Maybe that will help with the jamming?
I'm hoping they've updated the design. An easy fix with a 3d printed adaptor at least.
@@TeachingTech The Geeetech webpage pictures show them mounted correctly, but the instructions said different.
I have mine mounted correctly, and though an adapter may give a bit more security, I used just one of the screws to hold the brackets.
But my next project is to mount these bracket to the wall, as the movement of the spools do shake the top of the gantry.
I've double checked and the only way to rotate them would be to have only one bolt on each secured. This would be suitable for a promo shot but hopefully if it has been updated the solution is more permanent than that.
Teaching Tech is there enough space in the bracket to drill a second hole to fit the changed orientation?
Is it really dual extrusion when it only has one extruder? It's using a purge block to clear out colors in the single extruder, right?
i would be interested to see what happens if you try using colour mixing with different kinds of filament, IE pla and flexible or something like that, some of the higher temp plas should play nicely with the lower temp tpu's in the hot end....
8:00 re: rotate 90deg... the model I see on Amazon right now has them rotated backward by default.
Correct, i bought one on amazon a few days ago and it does indeed arrive with the better mounting
@@ImDelph sweet! I just ordered one too. My TronXY 100 finally bit the dust. This promises to be quite the upgrade.
Nakashii also filament runout is on the firmware already, there’s an option to enable it in the menu. And i used a custom marlin but it makes the mixing feature suck so i went back to the stock firmware
@@ImDelph good to know! I planned on using it default for a while and just getting it tuned that way before messing around. It doesn't come with auto levelling right? That may be an upgrade I eventually get.
Nakashii no auto bed levelling, just mounting for a BL sensor. But theres an option in the menu for levelling where it moves the nozzle to each corner for manual levelling
Geeetech A10M (or A10) vs Ender-3 Pro .... If having previous experience with 3D printers, what would be the best choice ?
A10M every time.
Thanks for the review, all of your videos are very well done. I'm new to 3D printing and am having a bit of trouble deciding whether to get the Ender 3 or the Geeetech A10 (single extruder version of the A10M). It seems like the Geeetech better in several aspects, but there's not many direct comparisons of them so it's difficult to decide. Assuming the A10 is the same as this the A10M besides the dual extruders, do you think it's a better choice than the Ender 3? Also, would most mods for the Ender 3 work for these since they're quite similar?
I say go with whatever is on special at the time. Most mods should fit either. advantages here are the geared extruder, glass bed and bootloader equipped 2560 based main board.
I had heard dual extruders are useful for the second filament for support material that is easy to remove
Did you ever fix your stringing issue? I would love to hear what worked.
is it single of dual nozzle?
I'm looking for a 3D printer with dual nozzle, to print supports with different material.
I worry about cross contamination from support material to building material, causing building structure to partly dissolve while dissolving support.
however the color mixing is a nice feature wen printing with same material and different color.
How do you load the filament into this printer? It doesn't seem to be taking mine! Please help!
Try to take the extruder off the printer and manualy slide it in
If you are trying to load it in extruder 2 with the move axis option i can't help. My printer did the same thing, but when printing it works fine. I am still keeping a eye on it for the time.
Can you please show how you would use this with PVA filament for your support. How is this done in the software slicers and what you need to look out for when using PVA
Will do.
Could it be possible to build something that needs supports or rafts, and make the supports and rafts out of another colour or even a cheaper crapper filament, to lower costs...I think it would be super cool having a dedicated "filler" / "support" filament, thats cheaper to use having the premium filament being superficial only. tho not sure if that will off set the cost of having an extrusion block.
Out of the box, it is not sticking to the bed. I have tried leveling the bed so many times, thicker and thinner space but nothing. I'm not sure how to make it work.
Hey Michael!
Great video! Will you be looking at getting the Geetech auto bed level sensor for the A10M?
Probably a genuine bltouch. Geeetech were meant to provide the printer with the wifi and 3dtouch, I don't know why they didn't.
Can it print dissolvable filaments? like PVA or HIPS?? That's what I really wanted to know before I purchase it.. I can't find that info anywhere. Thanks.
Can this printer be set to automatically switch colors at desired z height? For example 10.4 mm.
I had the A10M delivered. assembly was not difficult after watching assemblies from you and other youTubers. Time to plug it in......red lights on control board, fan running..... NO display! Checked that really bad design fault....the flimsy ribbon cable copied like almost everything else from the Ender 3 .....but it was OK still locked in with that equally flimsy plastic locking bar. Geeetech suggested plugging into a computer and running Repetier, Cura etc...to check if its just the LCD 2004. Mmmmmm. Seen FB posts.....like this and the buyer waits weeks and months fir parts....only find its something else, so my first order from Amazon.....was delivered a day late, assembled, broke down...re packed and handing into a post office for return. 8 days later....no refund yet! One point, I see all you review guys printing a two colour lizard or a Dog, which is on the SD card......but only the dog on mine! Also, traces of blue thread locker on the screws. It seems I may have been sent a return which..was repacked without checking! .....I will stick to my Anet A8...needs looking after ....but it is at least working ok. In the last week I have found on FB do many complaints about these failing after days abd arriving not working...poor to zero QC. And everybody says Anet are junk!.,
Around 8:32 you talked about the nozzle being "quite wide". So, does this printer not use a standard nozzle?
The spare doesn't look that different but the one on the printer is a wiide Boi.
no . there is only a specific geeetech 0.4 nozzle avaliable . noo other sizes and non of the standart nozzles like e3d /creality will fit
@@jomiller7332 Thank you for sharing that information. Are you able to share any background on the design decision to use a bespoke nozzle?
@@jomiller7332 do you know if a Micro Swiss nozzle would fit?
I am very new to 3d printing. I am getting this given to me for my birthday and find it difficult to find much information on settings and upgrades online. Do you think you could help with those? I really want to do a good job with this. I almost wish I got the Ender 3 because there is a TON of information and upgrades online for that one. Thank you for your time and your great videos.
How did you manage to cure the z wobble as i have a A10 which suffers the same so any info you can give will be very appreciated
I firstly removed the lead screw to roll on a table and verify it was straight. Gladly it was. After this I loosened the screws for the z nut and took off the top eating holder. I ran it up and down a few times to let it self align and then replaced/tightened everything. Not perfect yet but better. I want to investigate z stepper alignment.
I've found there are Z nuts, and then there are Z nuts! The actual match of (Chinese) nuts to (Chinese) trapezoidal threads is not outstanding, even though each in its own right is generally quite good. Best results seem to occur when you get both from the same manufacturer (same standards?). But good luck with that. I presume GeeeeeTech has the same problems?
Once you are sure the thread is straight, consider some sort of anti-backlash?
For what it's worth, I've got a HyperCube (coreXY where the bed 'drops' away from the extruder) and the mass of the Z platform damps the Z artifacts nicely.
I don't think it is lash on this. Before I tweaked it there was very obvious visual swaying side to side.
Can you set this up so if it runs out it kicks off the other filament?
good morning:
What are the specifications of the nozle for geeetech A10M? M6? MK8? E3DV5 / V6? or which?
Thank you.
Hi I have just bought an A10M and found the bed springs too soft and i cant seem to level the bed. Every time i start the print the home seems to have changed. I have just ordered some stiffer springs. How is your bed level. Also i bought one of their BL touches before i got the printer. Will you be doing a video on setting up and installing a BL touch on the A10M cheers Tim
I haven't had any issues with bed springs. After the initial leveling I didn't have to change anything. In terms of the BLTouch, their firmware is linked in the description. There is an alternate configuration.h file to use as a starting point, hopefully it's good to go out of the box.
Have you ever printed Carbon fiber PLA with the A10M? If so, which nozzle was used? What is the nozzle MK10 M7 or MK8 M6? Thank you in advance!!!
instead of rotating the spools could you rotate the extruders 45 degrees?
An interesting idea. Someone has linked a spool adaptor so unless that is terrible I will go with that.
At 0:51 the stock photo shows the spools rotated, so I'm thinking he assembled it wrong.
If you can assemble it the way the photo shows with the parts that came in my box you can have the printer and some cash on top.
@@TeachingTech sounds like a challenge to me.
@@TeachingTech There's nothing special about it rotated, it just uses one screw / nut instead of two. And butted up against the extruder mounts to prevent rotation in use. Alternatively if you want to keep the spools mounted like that, just rotate the extruders so the bowden tubes face down.
What did you do to fix z wobble ? Was the coupler garbage ? Lead screw warped ?
I find this printer at this price very inticsing.
Can you provide some more insight and issues so far and what you did to fix them...
Also what's changed in the last 5 days ? Any updates ?
Thanks
Everything was straight, just alignment issues. I will be making a follow up video on my fixes.
@@TeachingTech:
Did you get single bearing v-slot rollers, or is it dual ?
Seems to be a lot of confusion.
People are saying single bearing, but when I asked banggood they told me it's dual bearing ?
Keeping my fingers crossed, guess I will find out in a few days when mine arrives.
Please update, Thanks
did you not even test dissolvable supports? That seems like the main reason to get dual extrusion
What is your opinion about the JG maker artist d ?
Hi, bought this printer 2 weeks ago, got some prints in, bu i'm feeling a lot of underextrusion on e1, already tightened the extruders, I just feel alot of pressure wen pushing the filament by hand, any ideas?
sounds like a hotend clog
@@HolyShitAccess I had to toss the hotend, it clogged and the nozzle just came a part inside the heating block while unscrewing, and yes it was hot.now I have a btt 2in1out non mixing and I am happy with it, also replaced the feeders, and added some TMC 2208
@@knoker666 that sucks to hear. Was it the metal itself or the plating on the metal that gave out you think?
Also what hotend you go with I'm thinking of picking up one of these from the bay for 2.50.
My coreXY is fun n all but i want a consistent runner without having to resync z every print.
@@HolyShitAccess the nozzle seemed to be tightened with a pneumatic tool, and it just became round when I started to untighen it, as for your coreXY problems, I'm building one atm, and I found this command marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G034.html it seems promising into dealing with that type of problem, haven't tried yet
@@HolyShitAccess as for what I'm using atm on the a10m, a.aliexpress.com/_d67Z6au , I am using that hotend but from bigtreetech, the one on the link has better value for money as it comes with the replaceable throats
How to upgrade the firmware of the A30T to Marlin 2.x?
Nice reviews! Could a a10m print with pva as well? Ever tried it and if yes what where the results?
Hi :) What software did you use to slice / colour the yin & yang?
Hi Michael, firstly enjoy your vids .. i have been given one of these for Xmas .. worked gr8 for a week now im experiencing issues with stringing and first layer not sticking on bed at times .. temps seem fine .. note first time owning a 3D printer can you offer some advice .. thanks
I have a beginner Ender 3 vid that you might want to see as this is a clone. Should help iron out issues with the frame and levelling. I also have an A10m fixes video, but that might be redundant if they've updated the machine since I received mine.
@@TeachingTech Hi Michael .. thank you I'll take a look ...btw I did see your video regarding filament reels and fan cover it was one of the first objects I printed as I think I have similar version to yours .. I'm yet to perform FW update currenly it's 1.1.8.. would this help ? additionally I found I had a dryjoint on the board suppling power to heatend as I noticed temp fluctuations also the temp sensor was not in all the way at nozzle..I think thats when I started having these issues and I think made it worse :( .. thanks again I'll let you know how I go ..
theres a traffic cone next to your left arm, white with green stripes. can you tell me how to set the mix on my a10m to get that pattern? thanks!
What have used for the slicing software? Do you have a profile for S3D?
I'll post this once I dial it in completely in a future video.
Nice vid!!! Could you share the S3D profiles?
At the moment it's basically just my Ender 3 profile, which you can find on Thingiverse. When I tune it better I will share.
@@TeachingTech hi, are there some news to the profile?
does it have thermal runaway protection?
i must say i use a ender 3 pro v1 and i love this buildplate on the ender more as the glas one. i had used a glasbed on my ender and i hate it. whats about the fan yea if you hold your printer clean and not messy like as the most people. i care abot my printer so it stands bolted to the table, have consistend 22°C temerature without cold air stream in the room and use a BLTouch only vor consistend z level and dont scratch the bed with the sraper so my printer works fine for now 4 years with nearly daly use witout any damage. the only thing i needed to repair was the temparaturprobe at the heaterblock and i replaced all guidroler with bras one instand of the standard pom mostly becaus wear and tear and the fine black plasik debre. being astmatic can some times be difficuld if you using printer in general.
the reasen why i look for another printer is i hate removen support material and rip models apart and print them separately and fuse them later on together. i use geeetech filament and there a great but ther printer i never heard befor 2 days. i know the creality printer are cheap but reliable consisten over years if you care about them but unfortunaly creality have no dual or triple one hotend printer and modify one is a option thats normaly easy but the mainbord can only drive one exdruder drive. so in the and i needed a new mainbord too. so i decided look around and find a printer that can at least print 2 materials in one hotend bacaus of easy bed leveling and same hotend position. but most printer that can do this are a bit to much in cost and are in a to close ecosystem or this type of printers like prusa who are not realible and everything needs self ajusted like oh your spoolholder is dumb positioned and have to much friction yea then print your own and most people do this becaus of realbility and i dont want print me up to a "nearly perfect" printer.
i know every printer has his flaws and is not perfect but i can life with it if it is not bothering me with every print. thas the fact why i love the ender 3. it is simple, reliable. for shot it works everytime without watching them every second and it is not if i look for one second away it broke. some days i woke up start my print and go to work and came home and my print is flawless finished.
one of my last prints took 3 days in one go and i never wached it the only safty i have is a ipcam where i can look from work or from amy place i can use may phone and the other one is a smart relays power outlet. this can be used one by me from the phone out and by the filament sensor. i make me the powerloss funtion of the printer to use. in case the spool its empty the printer has 30mm filament left before the filament drive so the power cuts out and i get a messag filament empty so then i can splice a new spool on thet end and resume power and the printer heat up again and resume the print. in case i look at the cam and see the printer making dumb things i can cut off the power remotely and later one home i can clean up the mess and resume power stop the print and start again or change somthing in the code or do needed repair ans start the print again.
this system works for me fine and the new printer needs the same reliability and funtions. but finding a printer under 3000€ is not easy and buy a big pile of sh** ist easy even with that much money.
Can you print PVA and PLA ? PVA for support and PLA for model. Is it possible with this kind of dual extrusion ?
Keen to test multi material soon.
I have the A10M now for 3 days and the test prints look good but the mixing is not working. I only get one color on the left and on on the right side of the print but it should go upwards from 0-100%. I also tried another print with 50/50 the whole print but also left one color and right the other. Can you help me please sir?
Did you go to the template part of the LCD menu as seen in this video?
For the 50/50 mix, you have to do it just after the print starts, because any T0 or T1 commands move the extrusion from one side to the other.
@@TeachingTech Thx for the answer, I will give it a try. But what can I do against heating up E1 everytime in DualColorPrint when the color is changing? I set all temperatures to 200 but when finished with color 1 it waits about 10 seconds (on display heating up E1) but temp is still the same, in the meantime the hot nozzle is melting the print, after that it goes to the temptower and changes the color. When finished, all happens again. I use Cura.
Edit: OK, I figured it out now. I set starting temp 2 degrees lower but standby temp to the same temp. Now it takes about 2 seconds and than the nozzle goes to the temp tower.
Geeetech gave us a Cura profile, on this both extruder have different retraction settings. But I still get stringing. Now both on 5mm and 50 speed. What retraction settings did you have?
I am curious if the Ender Xtender Pro kit would work with this printer.
Thinking about getting this as it's on sale at BangGood at the moment, but slightly concerned about the adjustments required and not sure how often I'd dual colour print. 🧐
Anyone have experience with the resolution?
Where can I place an order to get the Wi-Fi module and bed leveler with the printer?
Thanks
geeetech.aliexpress.com/store/110623
I will be covering genuine BLtouch install on this soon.
Bought one of these, and after 3 hot ends which are impossible to clean when clogged and only maybe 30% print success due to a host of reasons ranging from huge quality issues, stepper drivers set way wrong, really bad extruder design, plastic extruders that jamb and fell apart, and many other issues, it ended up in the trash can. Please look at reviews other than this one! You will find plenty of people who just gave up and tossed these machines!
What's the process to get this functionality on an Ender 3? I'm assuming it's possible given its a clone of the Ender 3.
Do the electronics of this printer allow for the installation of a dual hotend?
Have to open we it yet but all it would need would be an extra thermistor and heater connection.
I received a new Geeetech A10M and I'm unable go get good prints out of it... I sliced a XYZ calibration cube in cure and it just stops multiple times during print.... when I connect it to usb to read the terminal, the problem was "processing" .... because of this the print is unaceptable.... I have a ender 3 too and i do not have this problems :S
Thanks for this review. I bought an updated & bigger size version of this printer, the A20M. How do you go about calibrating the e-step for the 2 separate extruders? Thanks
If it is the same as the A10M (which I believe it is) there appears to only be one setting for e-steps which applies to both extruders. Otherwise you calibrate the same way as any other setup.
I have a Geeetech A10T and I would like to try TPU on it. Could you provide a link to buy the black TPU?
This is my first printer.. almost ready to print.. can you do a video on how to tighten the filament extruder? I sure would appreciate it!!!
I will be covering that and other quick fixes but in the meantime turn the screw on the side near the sprung lever anti-clockwise. The lever should become stiffer.
Good morning, I would like a help, I have a geeetech A10, I would like to put a 3 filament nozzle.
Geeetech used a make a three colour delta so the part exists, but I dare say it would be a big effort to get it fitted.
Would this printer work with breakaway?
So, three years on have ypu modded this machine and still using it please?
did you ever figure out the retraction settings with this machine.
Can the touch screen you put on the Ender 3 Pro be put on here?
anyone else have a geetech multi color printer and just cant stop the oozing?
is this printer suitable for printing with two different materials? for example PLA and PVA.. thanks!
This will be tested in the future.
@@TeachingTech Have you tested the printing of support with PVA? I'm considering buying a printer, but printing support with PVA is required
Thank you Ales
Im pretty dissapointed you didnt get into showing water soluble filament like pva. I thought that was the main reason someone would buy this.... after all im pretty sure you can take any print and paint it and such, but i thought water solubles were supposed to be the thing that gets prints to look way better.is that not the case? Do you have a video specifically about those?
Go for ender 😉
My advice🙂
Great review Michael. Since this has the same glass need as my Ender 3, I'm interested in hearing more on how you got your printed to stick to this glass because I can't get anything to stick to the Creality glass unless I use a glue stick.
I had the same issue, I wipe done my bed every couple runs with some rubbing alcohol. Prints stick great now
This plus 5 degrees hotter than usual if needed.
Are you able to print soluble filament and pla on the other? I guess due to the mix you get nasty artefacts...
I will be trying this at some stage.
when will we see a Tevo Tarantula PRO review ?
I was looking at the CR-X but this one looks interesting to, I wonder witch one will have more issues.