6 fixes for the Geeetech A10M
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- The Geeetech A10M 3D printer has required some finessing to get right. In this video, I present 6 solutions to common problems including: spool holder fix, mainboard fan cover, extruder tensioning, adjusting z leadscrew, working twin filament runout detection and BLtouch/3Dtouch support.
I’ve done all of the hard work for you, by tweaking the Marlin firmware and providing it free of charge for standard and BLtouch versions below.
Purchase the Geeetech A10M from these links:
Banggood: bit.ly/2O4sDxO
Amazon: amzn.to/2pygYsm
Aliexpress: bit.ly/2IEdmhb
Buy genuine BLtouch (no extension cable required):
amzn.to/2Ozfby2
Spool holder mod (recommended): www.thingivers...
Spool holder mod (tried and broke): www.thingivers...
Spool holder mod (untested): www.thingivers...
My electronics fan cover: www.thingivers...
My preconfigured version of Marlin 1.1.8 based on the Geeetech version. Use at your own risk (having said that it is working for me and I see no reason for concern).
At most you will have to install U8Glib from the Arduino library manager. Select Mega 2560 as board and upload. Downloads are free:
My firmware for 3Dtouch/BLtouch: gum.co/lrceg
My firmware for standard: gum.co/QdPkg
Or if you want to go it alone: Geeetech Github: github.com/Gee...
GT2560 V3.0 mainboard image: www.geeetech.co...
Arduino IDE: www.arduino.cc...
Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au
Gearbest affiliate link (help support the channel): www.gearbest.c...
Take a look around and if you like what you see, please subscribe.
Support me on Patreon: / teachingtech
Ooo! I’ve just bought an A10M, let’s see this review
“Not for beginners’
............oh crap!!!
How did this turn out for you? I just ordered one.
literally me
Great Video. I am having a problem with using the mixing function. When trying to do a graduated test cylinder, with red extruder 1 and white, extruder 2 once extruder 1 changes from 100% to 99% up to about 60-40 mix the cylinder has only red on the left side and white on the right side. Filaments are the same brand and type. I have changed temps, higher and lower, but results do not really improve. between 60-40 and 40-60 mix is about the only time colors trully mix properly and give uniform color around the entire test cylinder. Basically the cylinder is 1/2 red on the left and 1/2 white on the right for the lower 40% and reversed on the top 40%. Ay ideas? thanks
i can seem to get the tension right, it either seems to much and wont feed or to little and wont feed. when i turn the cog manually it feeds the filament but wont do it when printing... any ideas?
Don't make my mistake and don't buy A10T. Board GT2560 V4.0 is lacking any info released cant migrate to marlin 2.0d
Hi, I need to say that some of this mods and fixes are for the "old" A10M. When i say old, is because there is a new version of the A10M from april 2020.
I can confirm this - just bought my A10M and the hardware and software fixes have been addressed. The spool holder has extra mount points and the filament detectors are supplied, as is the option in the menu
I will print the fan cover, and haven't bought the auto leveller. So far manual seems fine.
Which was a baaad idea - the new model has a larger fan, so the fan cover is the wrong shape
I designed a version for the new model
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4599751
Sorry my spool mount failed on your machine. As you say I designed it in a hurry as nothing else existed at the time and I'm glad you've found something that works better for you.
Please don't apologise. You fixed my problem for several weeks, your contribution is appreciated.
Not sure if I'm lucky and have an updated model, but many of the things you mention aren't issues with my A10M (bought last week).
1. Spool holders have 3 holes in an L shape for the screws, so you can mount at 180 or 90 degree angles, whichever is your preference. No problem.
2. Fan cover is not only an issue but there is a tiny gap between the metal cover where the nozzle in the home position oozes straight into. 1 strip of tape fixes this. They do need to make a proper fan cover though.
3. The extruders have screws in the side to adjust the tention. Problem solved, no need to take apart, just Allen key them to grip harder.
4. Filament run out sensor: In the LCD menu you can simply turn it on or off. Problem solved.
Good info, thanks for sharing details. Updates are always welcome, I think I have a pretty early one.
hi, i have a geeetech a10 y from geeetech they say me that i can´t put a EZABL and only can use BLtouch, i see this ua-cam.com/video/jARw5_w0uGM/v-deo.html , and y ask u if this work on a A10? whith marlin 2.0 or 1.8
I couldn't load flexible filament in A30T(ex.Pxmalion Flexible TPU) .
the adjustment 3:00 didn't work.
How about heatbrakes for it? I have repeatedly considered buying this hotend but have been completely unable to find any aftermarket (or Geetech made) Nickel or Titanium heatbrakes for it (would have to fit the tiny backflow stops so aftermarket parts for other hotends isn't an option). If I could get such heatbrakes then this printer's hotend I would buy one of right away.
Great video as always Michael, thanks for sharing
Maybe look into this
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3277217
I helped testing, and it is a lot better.
Best upgrade made yet.
Also, with some tmc2208, you can get this printer pritty silent.
A joke ?? printer gratis, we promise the next gratis too, well yes who will say badly the guy, finally! on your spanking I ordered this printer, buy nine, arrived with the nozzle clogged and plugs, well yes, well go clean it, we try to raise with a new nozzle, new, ben my balls, that slab, I was with an experienced friend who makes great impressions on anet, I can tell you that I felt con having made this choice with this video, thank you LOCO, you're a sold, continue going, t still have pigeons to pluck
Can you use 2208 stepper drivers on the A10M 3.1 board and if so how are the jumpers under the place the steppers go set for them can’t find much on the board
I just created a project where the students solder a night light circuit and then 3D print an object for the light to go inside of. Let me know what you think of it. I am going to start selling the kit to teachers. The website is: byromstemkits.com
Hey there, I checked out your link. I really want to see pics of a finished product to know what the students work might look like. Looks good otherwise.
I have not been able to make this printer work. Is it normal for the extruder to keep flowing material after it is stopped? My first layer won't stick to the bed. I'm so frustrated. Any tips?
Hey man! I've noticed lots of reviews of the A10M state that they have big problems with stringing, and unlike with the ender 3 they don't have a solution. Do you find this is a problem as well?
So which one would you recommend for a beginner at 3D printing? The creality 3D Endure3 or the Geetech A10? I appreciate you videos!
Definitely the Ender 3.
Thanks Michael. Mine has landed in Melbourne but I won't get it until next week. Sounds like it may be a newer model. Will print the parts anyway in preparation. Cheers, JAYTEE
Yeah… the changes I contributed to the Geeetech fork of Marlin 1.1.8 are still a little rough, but I plan to port the Geeetech mixing/gradient features over to Marlin 2.0 this weekend. I’ll also see what‘s left to do w/r/t the dual filament sensors, which I had believed to be working. I’ve had a lot more free time lately, so I’m taking the opportunity to catch up on a lot of the cleanup, improvements, and optimization that I’ve been wanting to do with Marlin, especially in the user interface. And thanks to my awesome Patreon patrons I’ll have a full-time assistant soon, which means more testing, documentation, content, and general progress. - Thinkyhead
Can I just take the opportunity to thank you for all of your amazing work and contributions to the community.
my extruder broke i have change it creality mk8 extruder now motor reverse
I see that it's a multi extruder printer so I answered my own question. Thank you for the video.
does that extruder position change really make a difference?
Have you looked into upgrading to skr1.3 om the Geeetech A10M? Or maby mounting a Geeetech hotend to a ender 3??
Cheers
I need your help.
I just updated the firmware of the A10M and I had an issue with the Z home. It auto homes normally but on the main screen it shows Z position on -4.99mm and when the print starts it goes to 4.99mm above the bed and prints on air. Do you have any idea what could be wrong? I searched for Z offset but I think it only shows when I upload the BlTouch firmware... is that correct?
Thankyou so much and best regards from Brazil
Hi been waiting for this one BL touch. I followed everything you said and downloaded your adjusted firmware but it did not work. when i set the printer to home it just lifted the x carrage and just went up each time it did a funtion. Retried installing the firmware a couple of times but did the same each time. So i gave up on the bl touch and downloaded your other firmware without the bl touch. All went well until i tried to print. It homed ok but evertime it went to print the nozzle was about 5mm + off the bed so failed again. I eventually went on git hub and downloaded the normal A10M firmware and it works fine now. Still no idea how to set it up for the bl touch. The settings speed is much faster so when dialing in temps etc it gets to the number much faster with less turns of the knob. Just thought i would let you know and if you had any ideas what went wrong cheers Tim
Great video. Answered my questions about the Thermal Protection. Seriously considering this printer as my new ABS printer but the extruder motors getting hot will be an issue as the printer has to be inside an enclosure raising the overall ambient temps. Maybe adding a couple of heat-sinks will help.
Hello. I bought an A10M. My first print was OK. Not the best but allright. After the first, I was unable to get any other print correctly. Also I found out that the bed was like the dunes on the desert : Mountains and valleys. In other words : a few hollows here and there. If I install a 3D touch, will that solve my problem ? Not talking about the problems I have with the nozzle. I will handle that later. Thanks
Did it come with a glass bed? Normally they are a safe bet to be flat. Bltouch touch will definitely help, you might need to up the amount of points I. The probing grid a lot. IE. Default is 3x3, you need 5x5 or more.
Heating keeps failing when the print is at 90%or more
how do i install the firmware?
I cannot remove the Z rod -- the Z coupler is extremely tight. I think I only have to loosen a single M3/M4 screw, but it doesn't budge. Do I need to do anything special there? The video was cut extremely fast for these steps.
You shouldn't have to do anything special but if it is that stiff, try getting some bolt penetrant from your local auto store. Spray it on and and is designed to seep in and loosen seized bolts.
Ah you've got exactly the same firmware problem as I do. I've built up a v1.1.9 version of the firmware from base with a tonne of adjustments and tweaks specifically for this printer, and it works so much better than 1.1.8 but I too am missing the colour mix menu. Any bright sparks out there that could help port it over?
Hopefully with Thinkyhead working on this it will be incorporated into the main Marlin build at some stage.
I just got my A10M running! Thank you for this video! Do you know what material the bed is? It looks like glass but has a black top. It doesn't look like PEI or BuildTak Type...
It's a clone of the Anycubic Ultrabase. Google that for more info.
Would you recommend this or an Ender 3 or something else for a fairly cheap first printer with a max budget of about 300, but preferably closer to 200 if possible. Also, it should be noted that I dont want to have to do a ton of modifying to get a printer working, but I would not mind doing some modifications to fix some minor issues.
This is trickier than an Ender 3. I say get the Ender 3 and save the remaining pennies for mods that interest you.
Nice video thanks.
do your firmware for 3dtouch could be suitable for a a20m?
With minor changes it should be a goof starting point.
I want to swap the heated bed with the heated bed from an ender 3, can you make a video for this. The geeetech bed is thin aluminum and even tho the glass is glued to it it's pretty warped
That would mean destroying my Ender 3! Not sure if the bolt pattern is the same but remove the four bed levelling nuts/bolts and it should come free. Swap and plug in bed thermistor and heater wires.
Nice, thanks for sharing 👍😀
Hi.. Have you ever printed Carbon fiber PLA in this A10M printer? If so what nozzle did you use? is it MK10 M7 or MK8 M6? Thank you in Advance!!!
Hey Michael, did you make some progress with your S3D settings ? I‘m currently working on one for my A20M which arrived yesterday, and the stringing is driving me nuts. Would be great if you would share yours :)
I haven't played with it much lately. I have ordered some soluble support material to try multi material. I ran a retraction tower and updated my profile but it doesn't seem to apply when changed.gijg extruders. I'm think there is a specific retraction section for that I need to address.
Thanks for the reply Michael.
I asked one of the Geeetech guys for a S3D Profile and he sent me one. Strangely it although having settings for both extruders, I couldn’t select it in the wizard, so I created a new one and copied all settings.
Still have to try it out, but it doesn’t look that different from the one I used before.
I always find it strange, when the Testfiles are nearly perfect but are impossible to reproduce.
Also both extruders started to be really loud and make screeching sounds...so I also have to look at that as well and this problem also seems to be quite common.
There is some debate as to whatever that airflow cover will burn out your drivers, if you are running long prints and are running upgraded TMC 2xxx drivers (which require heatsinks and get quite hot). you can hear the fan is fighting harder when the cover is mounted and the redirected airflow is definitely less than the direct.
Just a heads up.
I'm personally running a cover on my 220v supply because it's annoying as hell to listen to. I can feel it heating up a bit more than usual, but not anything that worry me.
The stepper drivers I'm not touching though, as they are in an enclosure and I can't easily monitor them anyway.
Great video! Just got one today
Thanks for this. I have a question re: BLTouch. I have seen else where that the BLT can replace the z end stop but you don't mention this. Appreciate anything you have to say about this.
I used lube on the z screw and haven't noticed any wobble. The spool on mine is also the updated one, I think. The other fixes seem great though. I had no idea the thermal runaway was disabled. (Well, I guess I did because I think I bought this printer after watching your video and someone else's.)
I wonder if that's the case on the firmware installed on mine? Either way it'd be nice to enable the filament runout. Do you know if it works while printing from Creality? Currently when it runs out, it goes to a home position and then keeps on printing. Seems the software doesn't know if you're printing over USB and filament runs out. (Turning on filament detection was as easy as using the printer's menu jog dial for me.)
Hello, Maybe you might know what's wrong with my A10M I have had it three weeks now and only got 2 two-color prints off. The printer just won't hold temp say I set it up to run 200c and in about two min. of starting both numbers start changing 178/180 etc. then it will heat failed I did a Auto tune about 4 times changed firmware different slicers put printer on its own power plug different temp settings no heat on bed still the same. Mix, single color printing everything works great but two colors I am to the point of tossing it out the window. I felt from the first day got the printer it was someones return I spent three days cleaning out the right side extruder. PTFE tube and the hot end had I don,t know what was in it didn't look like filament! Hope you might have some ideas.
Sorry about the long text but I'm frustrated now Thanks
If it prints one colour ok, the problem might be in your slicer settings. See here: ua-cam.com/video/xRtvbICRh1w/v-deo.html
If you using Cura as slicer Adjust your standby Temperatur. It falls back to standby had the same problem ( sorry maybe late But ya)
What about the noise? is it a silent board?
yeah i own the a10m dual extruder, a bit challenge to keep this printer compare to ender 3(i also have 1).the annoying part is to change the filament because the bowden extruder part is quite not suitable(the tube to pass the gear extruder cannot been seen)you have to try many times and the position is way above the frame.to difficult.
I am pretty tech savvy! New at 3d printing. I am torn between the Ender3 pro and this A10M? Two color printing would be great. What do you think? Either way it's a learning experience. So two color really is an interesting thing!
Hi, I've been 3d printing for a few years now but it would be my first to try a DIY printer. I'm somewhere in between beginner to intermediate in tinkering and am still torn if I should get a staple ender 3 pro or a10/20 m/t... In terms of preference what's most important for me are reliability, versatility, and print quality. Would you recommend me getting ender 3 pro and upgrading parts one by one or a10m/t ? Thanks in advance :D
great vid as im still building mine up i wanted to get the bugs out at the start and this helped especialy the fillament feed
Hopefully some things have been fixed now in newer printers.
Please talk about thermal runaway,I’ve had nothing but serious problems with this.
Hello,
My Geeetech A10 is saying Error no filament but I fed the filament through to the end, do you have any clue why it might say this?
Great video by the way!
I've just recently purchased this printer and the LCD screen isn't getting power. I'm also having issues finding the drivers for my laptop. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Michael did you have issues with needing print pla at 225+? I can only seem to get it to print at high Temps, this same filament printed at 200 on my anet a8 so I'm looking at 25c higher
Hey Micheal. I just got my printer and immediately clogged on me. I can’t push filament through by hand when hot. Can you demonstrate how to clear a clog in this weird hot end?
Hola he cometido un fallo que he puesto el a4988 al revés en la impresora geeetech A10 y se a quemado mi pregunta es le abra afectado a la placa base de la impresora,estoy esperando que lleguen los nuevos pero estoy comiéndome mucho la cabeza sabría decirme algo
Please do a video on the Geeetech A10T... I can't get it to use only 1 extruder at a time. It always uses all three extruders...
At the 3:13 you have the reason why sometimes the prints fail... Between the engine and the filament sensor you have to put a tube... when the filament is being pulled, the resistence that the swich makes forces the part to be at a bad angle which causes stress on the filament, and stops it from being pulled. If you do not put the small tubing, you'll have problems...
First, let me say thank you for all the videos you produce for all of us newbees out here. I did purchase an A10M with the glass bed and 3d Touch. I have been able to get everything together except for the Touch. All of the videos I have seen online do not match the connections I have on the hotend. Also, the housing for the GT2560 board goes all the way across underneath the bed. You can kind of see the new setup in the latest video Geeetech has on the unboxing and setup of this printer. I just emailed Geeetech for the connection diagram for the ABL system. Do you have any ideas?
Thanks, thanks, thanks, thanks. Have a A10M on order and will be following this guide to get it to working spec.
This printer has been a lot of trouble for me, but your videos have helped a lot. Would you consider updating your firmware for Marlin 1.1.9?
Great Video I have learned a lot from yourself by watching the videos .. My first printer was a cr10-s and I cannot fault it but I have always wanted a 2 colour printer and the Geeetech A10 or A20 is a good start as Creality CR-X pro the one I fancied is very expensive so Geeetech is the way to go ….thanks.. keep doing the videos they are a great help...
Linear rails, E3d v6 all metal clones, bondtech clone extruders, some capercorn ptfe clones... 🤔
I was a bit confused, about the dual filament, that the alarm goes off. is there anyway to have this printer just start using the 2nd filament role if the 1st run's out and vice versa?
I just bought the A20M (comes in tomorrow) and was wondering if there was an update that turns on the filament monitors already implemented? Or do I still have to mess with its code?
So helpful on the feeder tension, thanks so much! On another note, wherein I think I can help, I installed a BLTouch to my printer and the reality of it was that it didn't help at all, and in fact may have made my prints worse. Just my opinion its not worth using a bed leveller when the printer has a 4 corner manual setup that works quite well. Thanks again!
You should check out the spool mounts on the A10T. Do you think this will work?
downloaded the firmware without the touch and i cannot get it to load. I keep getting an error. Don't want to post it here it is too long. is there somewhere i can email it and you can look at it.
What do you think about the A10 model? Compared to the Ender 3 standard?
What printer control software do you use? Thanks.
I'm glad you made it so easy to learn. Is there any way to add a system controlled light with this board?
how do you made the frame RGB LED at your back there? :)
Hello! Nice video! Tell me , how do you fix the glass in the hot bed ?
Great video, any idea why extruder one would be underextruding when extruder 2 looks great? Doesn't seem to be nozzle problem. Also adjusted all my stepper drivers so I'm a bit lost.
are the filaments made by the same company? or are they different. sometimes when using different manufacturers one PLA may print nice at 205 but the other one might need 215 before it prints nice.... could this be the case? try two PLA's made by the same company and see if that helps?
Great video for me to watch. I downloaded the fan cover, but it does not appear on the sd card when i look for it on the printer. Do I need to convert the Teaching_Tech_-_Geeetech_A10M_fan_cover object?
Did you slice it?
Show 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Have you found a solution for you extruder and or found a better extruder?
main issue with the GEEE A10M is software issues.
will it handle carbon fiber?
Cant you please design a fanduct for the A10M, the standard one is very bad and none of the ones that I downloaded from Thingyverse works. I received mine 3 days ago and cannot print anything with even a slight overhang and it is driving me nuts.
Thanks will do
Did you ever test out that third spool mount?
Hi is there any start and end gcode for cura?
damn i wonder if they implemented those firmware fixes *sigh*, time to inspect. Received mine ~month ago and just assembled
did they?
Did you run into any issues using just one filament loaded? I thought with the design of the hotend that you would need to have both loaded even if just using one otherwise it would "leak" filament back up the unused extruder channel.
I think it's best if both are loaded, even when only just using one. I dont think there is any harm in having the second one loaded. I think having it loaded might prevent a plug in the second cooling zone....
Will these work on the A10?
whats the benefit of fitting a bl touch?
Thanks for sharing brother!
Does someone have an idea: my a10m works fine with one color prints but when trying to print two colors the printer is not changing the filament fast enough so it just leaves one color out and isn’t printing it at all I’m using cura 4.0
Have you heard of prime towers? I just got my A10M and I'm discovering stuff... if you enable a prime tower in Cura settings, it will build a tower next to your object to that will allow the filament time to change. This option appears under "Dual Extrusion" settings I believe.
@@FlightPlanBravo i have a prime tower but its still not working
Sainthood: Nominated! :)
This content is too complicated/difficult to understand for beginners :-(
@Len Kiely I am not complaining about the printer. I mean the videos on this channel.
Hi Len - any chance you could share what you've learned so far, or the settings that were critical? I'm on the same learning path you were on, just hoping to shorten the learning curve some :) Thanks!
Great video as always Michael. If you'r extruder is getting hot enough to melt the filament, I would turn down the motor current. All my CR-10 motors were way too high when it arrived, turning them down will also make it quieter (of course you already know all this). Surprisingly, the same was true on my Sigma, it's motors used to get very hot, so I upgraded all the drivers and tuned them down too.
Trimming VREF is definitely on the cards. Going to fit two of the EZR extruders too, I'm finding loading and unloading a pain.
@@TeachingTech I'm sure you will notice less noise from the motors too, it made a huge difference in my case. Just installed a Bontech extruder and Micro Swiss hotend on the CR-10 S4, print quality has improved greatly.
Your video was helpful. I am not a programmer Bought your software for the bl touch added but it ask me several questions during the the install that have no clue how to set up. Have you published some instructions for your modified 1.1.8 software? Would be very helpful thanks
This video convinced me to subscribe, thank you so much! I ordered one of these to compliment my Ender 3, and look forward to use. Thanks for your help!
This printer will be getting a follow up in a shoot out vs a palette 2.
@@TeachingTech I will look forward to seeing that to learn more about the palette 2, might be a nice add-on for an existing printer. $600 bucks though.. ouch!