** Yes I realize I did not put the oil cap back on while installing plugs causing peoples heads to explode. It has already been stated. No longer do you have to make a comment, someone has done that for you **
I switched to an aftermarket cold air intake tube. I don't know if it really makes any more power, but it sounds cool and it frees up a TON of room under the hood. that air box and hose are huge. Thanks for the video though. Not many people doing them for the Solstice. And how about that, I was your one hundreth like!
I have had problems with the K&N on more than one occasion. The issue was that the oil that is used to lubricate the fabric after washing. It would vaporize in the intake and coat the MAF/IAT sensor and modify the fuel tables creating a 'check engine' light. This was proven by removing the K&N, replacing with a stock 'dry' filter cleaning the MAF/IAT sensor with brake cleaner. Didn't even reset the light, it fixed itself after a short drive. Not a fan of oil-type filters in modern cars. Back in the 90's, air flow sensors were a flap/door that would open and close to provide the ECU with data to adjust the fuel curve. Now that this is done with temperature, it is important to keep these thermistors dry and clean. I wanted to talk about this in my video, but decided to omit this. Thank you for allowing this discussion!
@@afternoongarage Thank you for that information. You’re very knowledgeable. It’s nice you having about the same miles as my solstice GXP. Here’s a good question for you, when I pull mine out of storage in a couple months, I have to fix the passenger door. The door will not open, Both handles don’t work. So the only way I think to repair it is to use a slim Jim to get the door open? It broke the day I put it away this season haha.
It is likely that the handle is working, but the door is locked. You will need the door open to fix the latch, or other broken part. Does it open electrically with the switch? My Ghost Light video at 4.55 shows the door with the door panel off. Looks like everything runs to the latch and the electric actuator is in the latch. It is possible that you have a situation where the cable that opens the door from the inside is holding the latch open not allowing the door to unlock.
@@afternoongarage great idea, but the lock does move and our cars are know for door handles breaking. So I guess just slim Jim it open. I’ll check out your video, that will give a good idea on what to hook to open the door. That will be a life saver! I did put new handles on it last year. So it’s possible those broke. But thanks man. You are a great help!
That is probably a good idea with high mileage vehicles. I think I will do the same. The plug change made the engine run smoother at idle. I'm going to drive it soon and see if I can notice a change in performance.
@@Starscream8896 The plug change made a noticeable difference. Cleaning the MAP sensor, not so much. I actually drive the car after this work on the transmission flush video.
Thanks again! 1- is the plug change as easy as you make it look? 2- my '07 GXP has 150k km. Do you think it's worthwhile changing them? 3- It's a cliffhanger! You didn't share if you noticed a change in performance! LOL
Plug changes are easy, especially with the access we have with the inline-4. Iridium plugs are supposed to last 100K miles. I don't think I'd leave them in there that long. We used to do plug changes every 30K miles with copper plugs. I have a couple more videos and will take it off the lift, drive it and tell you what I think!
@@afternoongarage Finally did it today. WOW noticeable absence of a subtle rough idle and subtle hesitation at hard acceleration!! Why didn't i do this sooner? Used OEM 41-108. I was surprised to see non-OEM "Denso PTV16TT" plugs.
@@sailor5962 It really made my car run much better too. Not much to do on a 'tune-up' on this car. OE plugs are the way to go here I think. Thanks for being a long time subscriber!
The speed sensor for the transmission output shaft is pretty easy to get to on this car. If you watch my transmission flush video here: ua-cam.com/video/WGxFoJodmzk/v-deo.html you can see the speed sensor. Looks like a 13MM bolt holding it in. You can watch the rest of the video to find how to remove the closing panel to access this sensor. Good luck!
Ha! Funny story, I sent my then girlfriend to the auto parts store to get some anti-seize. I just wanted a small squeeze tube and she brought back 8 oz in a big bottle. Napa P/N: 765-1674. 12 years later it is a bit over 1/2 used. Really, any good anti-seize should work fine. This is an aluminum head and you don't want to risk twisting the inserts out of the head during the next plug change. I am using this stuff regularly to prevent galling in aluminum parts.
I have 2 questions, Sensei Erick: funds are limited at the moment and I already have a can of Tri Flow, spray grease in a can. I used it to lube my garage door auger. I have a bunch of it left, more than enough to put on my new spark plug threads. Can I just do this? I hear the squeaking when you take the old plugs out, so lubing the threads is a good idea. Is there any reason why I can't just put a little Tri Flow on the plug threads and coil bolts? Or does it have to be anti-seize (silicone paste/grease)? My other question: instead of blowing out the air filter compartment, I was going to vacuum it out instead with a crevice tool. Thanks again!
Hey there! Not sure what a garage door auger is. I am very curious. The plug area gets pretty hot where the threads are. I am not surprised to hear you hear squeaking. Typically these aluminum heads have steel inserts in the head. The squeaking is an indicator of dry threads. This can be compounded by dissimilar metals as the plugs are steel and the inserts are stainless. This is a scenario for the threads galling and pulling the stainless insert out of the head. THIS IS A NIGHTMARE. I would avoid any grease of any kind as it could dry out, expand and do the same thing. The reason you use 'anti-seize' is that it has powdered graphite with a petroleum carrier. You really want that graphite in there to stop the galling. Some anti-seize has copper and aluminum particles with the graphite. The other question about the air cleaner. There are lots of crevices in there, but vacuuming is always preferred vs blowing crap all over the engine and your shop.
@@afternoongarage A garage door auger runs between the motor and the top of the garage door itself. The motor (at the back end of the auger) turns the auger (which is basically a giant screw or bolt--think of a pole with threads) one way or the other, depending on whether the door is up or down. The door is connected to the front end of the auger via a connector with corresponding threads. When you push the button, the motor turns the auger, which in turn pulls the door up or lets it down. I hope I made that understandable. Over time, however, the Tri Flow would dry out and the auger would bind up, resulting in the door not going up or down until I re-sprayed the auger with fresh Tri Flow. The squeaking I was referring to was when you were unscrewing your spark plugs. It was quite audible. I haven't taken mine out yet. I plan on doing that this afternoon along with replacing the air filter. But I still need to find a brown bowling shirt with short orange sleeves and a Pontiac baseball cap so I look just like my sensei. LMAO!! Just kidding. :) Seriously, thanks VERY much for the "anti-seize" info! I didn't see why I couldn't use the Tri Flow, but now, I'm off to AutoZone to get some actual anti-seize based on your advice. You rock, Erick! Your being there and making yourself this accessible is a godsend. My Solstice loves you! --Rick
@@ApartmentKing66 Not sure what you mean. I would use anti-seize. If you don't have anything else, I guess a bit of oil could help during install. You really need the graphite there. As I said before, the plug area gets hot.
@@afternoongarage I guess I was kinda vague. Sorry about that. There was a touch of oil on plugs 1 and 2 when I took them out. 3 and 4 had none. I think I put a bit too much oil in when I changed it a week or so ago. I *did* put anti-seize on the new plugs and the coil bolts. Went to AutoZone and picked up a tube of Permatex.
2:21 you mean these connectors? I don't remember having much trouble with those. MAP sensor connection I think. Sometimes the silicone seal in the connector can get stuck to the plastic housing. Sometimes you can gently pry back the tab in the front, and get a flat screwdriver in the rear to coax it apart.
@@afternoongarage that's what I ended up doing. Using the flat head screwdriver to depress the tab and pull it off. This Solstice has 140000 miles on her and it was still on the original plugs, so those sensors likely have never been disconnected. Peeked inside the cylinders and they look perfect! Solid engine when it's taken care of. Now to figure out this whole P2261 issue. Changing the solenoid didn't fix it. Turbo boost normal, no creep, makes around 13 to 15 WOT, yet throwing P2261. Grrr.
Hi Sir, I like some of your videos, but I think I will give you a thumb down on this one since there are two things that you should always be careful. First, when you remove the oil cap, you should have protected the fill up hole. A dust particles could potentially get inside the oil and will damage the engine. In addition, something mat get inside by accident. Second, i think you used too much anti seize near the head of the spark plug, and you should torque to the correct specs, 18 lb-ft. It seems that you put some muscle on the wrench. Other than that, It was just a simple and basic service.
Your concerns about the oil cap had already been mentioned in the comments. Just a quick word on my videos. I don't make money doing these. I do these because I got tired of videos where there is the start of a project, and then a cut, and then the end. Some people just are ashamed to show their work. I understand why when people leave comments like you did. You said you "like some of your videos". Then you should support the content creator and subscribe and leave a nice comment when you see something you like. If the 92% of my viewers subscribed, my channel would grow. For some reason people don't understand the amount of time it takes to do this and they think a thumbs down is the only way to communicate. You got me. Thanks for watching.
![Pontiac Solstice: Fuel pump [4K] Ep13](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_DB80yP-WlM/mqdefault.jpg)
** Yes I realize I did not put the oil cap back on while installing plugs causing peoples heads to explode. It has already been stated. No longer do you have to make a comment, someone has done that for you **
I switched to an aftermarket cold air intake tube. I don't know if it really makes any more power, but it sounds cool and it frees up a TON of room under the hood. that air box and hose are huge. Thanks for the video though. Not many people doing them for the Solstice. And how about that, I was your one hundreth like!
Thanks for this video!
Awesome as usual!
Good job man! I use a K&N air filter in my GXP but I’m going to switch back to the ACdelco one this spring.
I have had problems with the K&N on more than one occasion. The issue was that the oil that is used to lubricate the fabric after washing. It would vaporize in the intake and coat the MAF/IAT sensor and modify the fuel tables creating a 'check engine' light. This was proven by removing the K&N, replacing with a stock 'dry' filter cleaning the MAF/IAT sensor with brake cleaner. Didn't even reset the light, it fixed itself after a short drive. Not a fan of oil-type filters in modern cars. Back in the 90's, air flow sensors were a flap/door that would open and close to provide the ECU with data to adjust the fuel curve. Now that this is done with temperature, it is important to keep these thermistors dry and clean. I wanted to talk about this in my video, but decided to omit this. Thank you for allowing this discussion!
@@afternoongarage Thank you for that information. You’re very knowledgeable. It’s nice you having about the same miles as my solstice GXP. Here’s a good question for you, when I pull mine out of storage in a couple months, I have to fix the passenger door. The door will not open, Both handles don’t work. So the only way I think to repair it is to use a slim Jim to get the door open? It broke the day I put it away this season haha.
It is likely that the handle is working, but the door is locked. You will need the door open to fix the latch, or other broken part. Does it open electrically with the switch? My Ghost Light video at 4.55 shows the door with the door panel off. Looks like everything runs to the latch and the electric actuator is in the latch. It is possible that you have a situation where the cable that opens the door from the inside is holding the latch open not allowing the door to unlock.
@@afternoongarage great idea, but the lock does move and our cars are know for door handles breaking. So I guess just slim Jim it open. I’ll check out your video, that will give a good idea on what to hook to open the door. That will be a life saver! I did put new handles on it last year. So it’s possible those broke. But thanks man. You are a great help!
@@afternoongarage Based on your recommendation, Sensei Erick, I'll stick with ACDelco plugs and air filter.
Any reason to not put the oil filler cap back on while working with the plugs? Seems like you are inviting dust and crap to fall in there
Good point and I thought about that as I was editing. The entire job was done quickly as you can see, so not much chance of anything bad happening.
I cleaned my MAF sensor and noticed a difference in throttle response. It was visibly grimy
That is probably a good idea with high mileage vehicles. I think I will do the same. The plug change made the engine run smoother at idle. I'm going to drive it soon and see if I can notice a change in performance.
@@afternoongarage so is there a difference in performance or nah? Lol
@@Starscream8896 The plug change made a noticeable difference. Cleaning the MAP sensor, not so much. I actually drive the car after this work on the transmission flush video.
Thanks again! 1- is the plug change as easy as you make it look? 2- my '07 GXP has 150k km. Do you think it's worthwhile changing them? 3- It's a cliffhanger! You didn't share if you noticed a change in performance! LOL
Plug changes are easy, especially with the access we have with the inline-4. Iridium plugs are supposed to last 100K miles. I don't think I'd leave them in there that long. We used to do plug changes every 30K miles with copper plugs. I have a couple more videos and will take it off the lift, drive it and tell you what I think!
@@afternoongarage Finally did it today. WOW noticeable absence of a subtle rough idle and subtle hesitation at hard acceleration!! Why didn't i do this sooner? Used OEM 41-108. I was surprised to see non-OEM "Denso PTV16TT" plugs.
@@sailor5962 It really made my car run much better too. Not much to do on a 'tune-up' on this car. OE plugs are the way to go here I think. Thanks for being a long time subscriber!
@@afternoongarage Thank you!! I've never been so "attached" to a car like I am to my Sol! Maybe since my '64 Fury ragtop.
Hi there, I have a Pontiac Solstice, with a faulty Speed Sensor, could you make a video of changing out that speed sensor on this vehicle. Thanks
The speed sensor for the transmission output shaft is pretty easy to get to on this car. If you watch my transmission flush video here: ua-cam.com/video/WGxFoJodmzk/v-deo.html you can see the speed sensor. Looks like a 13MM bolt holding it in. You can watch the rest of the video to find how to remove the closing panel to access this sensor. Good luck!
What paste do you use before installing Sparks?
Ha! Funny story, I sent my then girlfriend to the auto parts store to get some anti-seize. I just wanted a small squeeze tube and she brought back 8 oz in a big bottle. Napa P/N: 765-1674. 12 years later it is a bit over 1/2 used. Really, any good anti-seize should work fine. This is an aluminum head and you don't want to risk twisting the inserts out of the head during the next plug change. I am using this stuff regularly to prevent galling in aluminum parts.
@@afternoongarage Thanks
I found 4g pack for $2.49 )
I have 2 questions, Sensei Erick: funds are limited at the moment and I already have a can of Tri Flow, spray grease in a can. I used it to lube my garage door auger. I have a bunch of it left, more than enough to put on my new spark plug threads. Can I just do this? I hear the squeaking when you take the old plugs out, so lubing the threads is a good idea. Is there any reason why I can't just put a little Tri Flow on the plug threads and coil bolts? Or does it have to be anti-seize (silicone paste/grease)?
My other question: instead of blowing out the air filter compartment, I was going to vacuum it out instead with a crevice tool. Thanks again!
Hey there! Not sure what a garage door auger is. I am very curious. The plug area gets pretty hot where the threads are. I am not surprised to hear you hear squeaking. Typically these aluminum heads have steel inserts in the head. The squeaking is an indicator of dry threads. This can be compounded by dissimilar metals as the plugs are steel and the inserts are stainless. This is a scenario for the threads galling and pulling the stainless insert out of the head. THIS IS A NIGHTMARE. I would avoid any grease of any kind as it could dry out, expand and do the same thing. The reason you use 'anti-seize' is that it has powdered graphite with a petroleum carrier. You really want that graphite in there to stop the galling. Some anti-seize has copper and aluminum particles with the graphite.
The other question about the air cleaner. There are lots of crevices in there, but vacuuming is always preferred vs blowing crap all over the engine and your shop.
@@afternoongarage A garage door auger runs between the motor and the top of the garage door itself. The motor (at the back end of the auger) turns the auger (which is basically a giant screw or bolt--think of a pole with threads) one way or the other, depending on whether the door is up or down. The door is connected to the front end of the auger via a connector with corresponding threads. When you push the button, the motor turns the auger, which in turn pulls the door up or lets it down. I hope I made that understandable. Over time, however, the Tri Flow would dry out and the auger would bind up, resulting in the door not going up or down until I re-sprayed the auger with fresh Tri Flow.
The squeaking I was referring to was when you were unscrewing your spark plugs. It was quite audible. I haven't taken mine out yet. I plan on doing that this afternoon along with replacing the air filter. But I still need to find a brown bowling shirt with short orange sleeves and a Pontiac baseball cap so I look just like my sensei. LMAO!! Just kidding. :) Seriously, thanks VERY much for the "anti-seize" info! I didn't see why I couldn't use the Tri Flow, but now, I'm off to AutoZone to get some actual anti-seize based on your advice. You rock, Erick! Your being there and making yourself this accessible is a godsend. My Solstice loves you!
--Rick
@@afternoongarage What does a little oil on the threads mean?
@@ApartmentKing66 Not sure what you mean. I would use anti-seize. If you don't have anything else, I guess a bit of oil could help during install. You really need the graphite there. As I said before, the plug area gets hot.
@@afternoongarage I guess I was kinda vague. Sorry about that. There was a touch of oil on plugs 1 and 2 when I took them out. 3 and 4 had none. I think I put a bit too much oil in when I changed it a week or so ago. I *did* put anti-seize on the new plugs and the coil bolts. Went to AutoZone and picked up a tube of Permatex.
Guy in video pops the two sensors off at the top off like they are barely connected. I've been fighting them for the last half hour. FML.
2:21 you mean these connectors? I don't remember having much trouble with those. MAP sensor connection I think. Sometimes the silicone seal in the connector can get stuck to the plastic housing. Sometimes you can gently pry back the tab in the front, and get a flat screwdriver in the rear to coax it apart.
@@afternoongarage that's what I ended up doing. Using the flat head screwdriver to depress the tab and pull it off. This Solstice has 140000 miles on her and it was still on the original plugs, so those sensors likely have never been disconnected. Peeked inside the cylinders and they look perfect! Solid engine when it's taken care of.
Now to figure out this whole P2261 issue. Changing the solenoid didn't fix it. Turbo boost normal, no creep, makes around 13 to 15 WOT, yet throwing P2261. Grrr.
Hi Sir, I like some of your videos, but I think I will give you a thumb down on this one since there are two things that you should always be careful. First, when you remove the oil cap, you should have protected the fill up hole. A dust particles could potentially get inside the oil and will damage the engine. In addition, something mat get inside by accident. Second, i think you used too much anti seize near the head of the spark plug, and you should torque to the correct specs, 18 lb-ft. It seems that you put some muscle on the wrench. Other than that, It was just a simple and basic service.
Your concerns about the oil cap had already been mentioned in the comments. Just a quick word on my videos. I don't make money doing these. I do these because I got tired of videos where there is the start of a project, and then a cut, and then the end. Some people just are ashamed to show their work. I understand why when people leave comments like you did. You said you "like some of your videos". Then you should support the content creator and subscribe and leave a nice comment when you see something you like. If the 92% of my viewers subscribed, my channel would grow. For some reason people don't understand the amount of time it takes to do this and they think a thumbs down is the only way to communicate. You got me. Thanks for watching.