My two cents : I would add a bit of Sikaflex into the holes before I put the bolds. Just in order to prevent moisture to get below the head of the bolds up to the steel. I don't know if some people will agree with me on that point. Congratulations for the great work.
Sorry to say, but the Cabinfloor isn´t OSB it looks more like Chipboad, but you are right- both isn´t waterresistant. Thats why he is using the waterresisted Boards in the Cabin in the Back of the Boat.
Ok, some advice for the hatch bolts. Drill oversize holes in the mild steel to start with. Make sure you use epoxy primer on the steel and paint inside the bolt holes too. Use a stepped nylon washer in each bolt hole under the nuts to prevent the stainless steel bolt coming into contact with the mild steel. The washer will centre the bolt in the hole and insulate the stainless from the mild. This keeps the dissimilar metals apart. Then, as others have said, make sure you squeeze a bit of sikaflex around/into each bolt hole so that it gets squeezed into the thread of the bolt when tightening to make it water tight.
The engine room roof is chipboard and when it gets wet it it swells up and is no good and will have to be replaced. When chipboard is made it flakes of wood mixed with glue and compressed. So when it comes into contact with water is no good anymore. The MDF looks like it was added to be a noise dampener. Great video looks so much better with the second coat of paint. Can’t wait for next video. 👍👍👍👍
Your plasma cutter is experiencing voltage drop. You need to shorten up your electrical leads feeding it. Similar to a post on here referring to testing your batteries under load for a accurate reading you need to do the same with your plasma cutter. Even if you read a solid 220v at you power plug as soon as you start to cut and put a load on the circuit the voltage will drop off considerably. To help with this. You should set up a dedicated circuit from your power panel to a outlet just for your plasma... Keep it as short as possible to reduce voltage drop... Looking good! Stay on it. 💪
Be carefull with the grinding in and outside of the boat. The sparks are small hot partikels that stick to anyting and give rusty pixels after a while. Also on the boat of your neighbour...
Ahhh a good Sunday. Wake up, make my breakfast, turn-on the computer and a cool video waiting. I don't mind the painting. I fully expect you go all AMSR on one video of your painting e.g. "My Mechanics" on UA-cam.
As a German-American I might be a bit prejudiced, but I must say that I am impressed because job after job after job, in every episode, the perfect tools and high quality manufactured materials are available in Berlin. I wonder if these are so available in any other country.
I really enjoy your videos and that's a bit strange as I have no mechanical skills whatsoever. Your descriptions are interesting and I am amazed at the amount of work involved. I look forward to the finished project but I am not wishing it to happen too quickly as these videos step by step are fun! Thanks!
I replaced about 20% of the hull of my steel boat. I did not have a plasma cutter then, but used a Sawzall with metal cutting blades to cut many meters through the steel plating.
Here's a tip for you bud. When you cut any bolt or screw with fine treads or even course threads leave the nut on the bolt or the screw if all possible. So, when you clean up the end of the bolt by putting a tapper on it, when you unscrew the nut, it helps to accept the nut so you don't have to fuss with getting the nut to accept the treads. Hope that makes sense.
Not sure where you are storing your welding electrodes, but if they get damp, they won't weld as well. One of the shops I worked in did a lot of stick welding, they stored the opened welding electrode boxes in an old frig, that wasn't working anymore. They disabled the door switch, so that the light stayed on full time, to provide a bit of heat, keeping things a bit drier. Mig welder doesn't have the same problem, the outer coating on a stick electrode provides the arc shielding, where on a mig, flux core, the core inside is not affected as much by moisture. Those with shield gas in a bottle, argon or mix, the only thing you need to worry about is rust on the wire... Just my two cents. I'm enjoying watching you working on the boat!! Thanks!
It almost looks like the ground clamp of the plasma cutter is not well connected to the hull. My machine behaves this way when I forget to connect the ground.
You got an air compressor now the next thing you need is a paint gun kit , before you start putting on the final coat of paint get a nice smooth final coat
Leaking hatch frames and their fasteners are a problem on all boats. Many sailors give up using any "permanent" sealants and apply butyl take under the hatch frame and under the head of the screw. This will eventually leak, but it is very easy to remove the hatch, remove the old butyl tape, clean the surface and apply new butyl tape.
round corners when patching in skin to stop cracking its just besrt practice...... Watching all you videos from the start i am thinking of touring some germanys water ways
Bravo for this job done in the rules, personally I will have cut the screws of the bolts a little shorter because they are at the end of the tightening race ... !! and it is better inside to also put a strapping rather than a washer on each screw ... !! but it's a good job, well done !!
Plasma cutters generally don't require that much current. If you're having current problems, you may have an easier time with your welding if you can run the machine hotter.
if wood is good, paint polyester resin over all joggle/door jams. And more of wood if needed. Keep engine door light! as possible, easy access. l know your engine bay will look like a kitchen, super clean when finished:)
I’m curious about the bolts supplied with the hatches, being that stainless steel & aluminium don’t go well together (galvanic corrosion), especially in a marine environment, what material are the fixings, assuming the hatch surround is made from aluminium?
Grounds. Grounds. Grounds. Get the ground (welding and plasma) as close to the work as possible. If you have to weld a ground post directly beside the work area, do it. Grounding the equipment 10 feet from the work area will not work as well as 10 inches.
You are doing an excellent job! No need to apologize. Is it just the amperage for the plasma cutter or is the boat made of high carbon steel? That makes cutting and welding both more difficult.
If I'm not mistaken, the ground on the plasma cutter was attached to painted steel. This will cause all sorts of issues. Might explain some of your issues welding also.
This is a dangerous way to patch a steel hull. When you make sharp corners like this, you are creating a starting point for cracks. The welding will not prevent this, there will be a structural weak point at every corner of the patch, and the vibrations from the engine and movement through the water will make the plate move enough for it to start cracking. This can potentially sink your boat! In order to prevent this, you'll need to cut them out again a little bigger and make the corners round with a radius of at least 20 mm.
bonjours quand vous meuler faite attention a vos vitres car les étincelles sont en fait des débris de métal qui s'incruste dans le verre et finisse part faires e des points de rouilles je vous bon courage !!
Not enough sealant on that rear hatch, aluminum and steel expand and contracts at different rates. There has to be enough flexibiliaty to allow for this. Buytl tape is usually better
@@MyFirstBoat Do you know what type ? and what style of connector pin it has to the display ? My guess is that is maybe to old for the modern systems delivered today And thanks for answering :)
@My First Boat *_ He must, and I say again... MUST put an anti-Galvanic Corrosive sealer on ALL bolts that are Stainless Steel and that are going through Aluminium onto Steel. _*
I can see where a Saws-all with a diamond metal blade would come in real handy on this project. The plasma cutter is never gonna work unless you have a nice fat cord right on top of your power supply, but the Saws-all will make quick work on your hull cut out corners.
Not that it matters, but I noticed moreso on this video than others that when you are stick welding, you tend to push the stick into the seam to get that puddled shape of the weld, when you should be taking the end of the stick and making little C shapes. if you are welding left to right, the C looks like a C. If you are welding right to left, the C would be backwards. But that way you are really heating both sides of the weld and bridging the weld together, which makes that classic weld pattern. Anyway, carry on...
Just a reminder for the future.....it is a No No to have completely square inserts on a steel boat of any size. Check any boat, ship, whatever you want to call it....all corners are round it.....so all inserts on the hull MUST have rounded corners....it is a shipbuilding law....
Hallo, für den Fall, dass Du es nicht kennst, schau doch mal auf den Kanal von Manfred Welding -Plasma-Schneider für 129 €- vielleicht hilft es. Mach weiter so. 👍👍👍
You can now support us on PATREON 🛥️ : www.patreon.com/myfirstboat - hope you enjoy the episode!!
When all is said and done, the one thing they can't take from you is your knowledge. You are gaining a lot.
My two cents : I would add a bit of Sikaflex into the holes before I put the bolds. Just in order to prevent moisture to get below the head of the bolds up to the steel. I don't know if some people will agree with me on that point.
Congratulations for the great work.
Butyl tape. Made for screw holes.
Little trick e were told as apprentices. Wind a nut down the thread, cut to size then wind nut off. Acts like a die to even out threads.
You beat me to it John 😊
And one other thing. cut it with a hack saw not an angle grinder! You will have much better control .
Can additionally wind teflon tape around those screws to withstand vibration
I thought that was standard practice
Put a bit of butyl tape under each bolt / screw head on the hatch! Prevents water leaking from underneath the bolt heads
ABSOLUTELY...GREAT TIP...Yet though he does have lots of sika flex in the seams.
@@fonhollohan2908 *_ You'll be surprised how much water can get in through the threads!! _*
Man your going all professional on us plasma cutters and mig welding
You're literally building a whole new boat! I can't wait to see it when it's all completely done!!
They used OSB for the main cabin floor. OSB on a boat is a big nono because it isn't water resistant. You have to replace it.
Sorry to say, but the Cabinfloor isn´t OSB it looks more like Chipboad, but you are right- both isn´t waterresistant. Thats why he is using the waterresisted Boards in the Cabin in the Back of the Boat.
Ok, some advice for the hatch bolts. Drill oversize holes in the mild steel to start with. Make sure you use epoxy primer on the steel and paint inside the bolt holes too. Use a stepped nylon washer in each bolt hole under the nuts to prevent the stainless steel bolt coming into contact with the mild steel. The washer will centre the bolt in the hole and insulate the stainless from the mild. This keeps the dissimilar metals apart. Then, as others have said, make sure you squeeze a bit of sikaflex around/into each bolt hole so that it gets squeezed into the thread of the bolt when tightening to make it water tight.
The engine room roof is chipboard and when it gets wet it it swells up and is no good and will have to be replaced. When chipboard is made it flakes of wood mixed with glue and compressed. So when it comes into contact with water is no good anymore. The MDF looks like it was added to be a noise dampener. Great video looks so much better with the second coat of paint. Can’t wait for next video. 👍👍👍👍
This guy has skills. Thumbs up.
Your plasma cutter is experiencing voltage drop.
You need to shorten up your electrical leads feeding it.
Similar to a post on here referring to testing your batteries under load for a accurate reading you need to do the same with your plasma cutter.
Even if you read a solid 220v at you power plug as soon as you start to cut and put a load on the circuit the voltage will drop off considerably.
To help with this.
You should set up a dedicated circuit from your power panel to a outlet just for your plasma...
Keep it as short as possible to reduce voltage drop...
Looking good!
Stay on it. 💪
Cool Beans little by little!
Be carefull with the grinding in and outside of the boat. The sparks are small hot partikels that stick to anyting and give rusty pixels after a while. Also on the boat of your neighbour...
The boat is coming along, Your making a very good job of it
Good luck with all the other work you need to do 👍👍
Dude, you are an inspiration! 🇨🇦
Your project and videos are addictive. Thanks for sharing !
Ahhh a good Sunday. Wake up, make my breakfast, turn-on the computer and a cool video waiting. I don't mind the painting. I fully expect you go all AMSR on one video of your painting e.g. "My Mechanics" on UA-cam.
Its satisfying to see the paint go on. Keep filming
Der gute Lidl Plasmaschneider, top! 😁
Well done. Can't wait to see the result next week. Cheers from Belgium 🛥
0:05 A six story outdoor spiral staircase just seams wrong. Can you imagine taking a tumble down that? 😆
I do like your video, thanks again 🇬🇧👍🥳
Loving you’re dedication, hard work and attention to detail. Thank you for sharing the journey with us. From Canada with mad respect!
I love this series. Thank you!!
You need to get yourself a generator. Even if it’s just a little whatever you have over there. It’ll always come in handy.
As a German-American I might be a bit prejudiced, but I must say that I am impressed because job after job after job, in every episode, the perfect tools and high quality manufactured materials are available in Berlin. I wonder if these are so available in any other country.
All progress is inspiring , even painting !
Great job, those hatches should never leak. Can't wait to see next week, stay warm 🚤👍👍💚
Thank you for posting, retired now but should have done that years ago, you are doing a great job
shame about the bad weather of the past days, but things are progressing so well .. keep it up.
Fine Job indeed !
Call me wierd but I like the painting. Strange I know but something oddly satisfying about it lol. Great job beautiful boat
Keep going Sir your doing a great job. You will get there .................... but it takes perseverance!
You sure got a lot of jobs done, very nice! Thanks for the episode
Can't wait for next Sunday! Hope the weather is nicer! Good luck!
I really enjoy your videos and that's a bit strange as I have no mechanical skills whatsoever. Your descriptions are interesting and I am amazed at the amount of work involved. I look forward to the finished project but I am not wishing it to happen too quickly as these videos step by step are fun! Thanks!
It's good practice to avoid square corners when doing patch repairs
I replaced about 20% of the hull of my steel boat. I did not have a plasma cutter then, but used a Sawzall with metal cutting blades to cut many meters through the steel plating.
You're doing a fine job
Great video & job. Looking forward to seeing next week’s video. Greetings from South Carolina, USA 🍀
Nice work! What a bad weather to work on the boat... looking out for more! Like the videos
Keep up the great work and be well sir!
great soundtrack!!
Here's a tip for you bud. When you cut any bolt or screw with fine treads or even course threads leave the nut on the bolt or the screw if all possible. So, when you clean up the end of the bolt by putting a tapper on it, when you unscrew the nut, it helps to accept the nut so you don't have to fuss with getting the nut to accept the treads. Hope that makes sense.
I'm explaining it differently than John Glover if you didn't grasp what John was saying..
Not sure where you are storing your welding electrodes, but if they get damp, they won't weld as well. One of the shops I worked in did a lot of stick welding, they stored the opened welding electrode boxes in an old frig, that wasn't working anymore. They disabled the door switch, so that the light stayed on full time, to provide a bit of heat, keeping things a bit drier.
Mig welder doesn't have the same problem, the outer coating on a stick electrode provides the arc shielding, where on a mig, flux core, the core inside is not affected as much by moisture. Those with shield gas in a bottle, argon or mix, the only thing you need to worry about is rust on the wire...
Just my two cents.
I'm enjoying watching you working on the boat!! Thanks!
It almost looks like the ground clamp of the plasma cutter is not well connected to the hull. My machine behaves this way when I forget to connect the ground.
Hi 👋 from the uk 🇬🇧
You got an air compressor now the next thing you need is a paint gun kit , before you start putting on the final coat of paint get a nice smooth final coat
Leaking hatch frames and their fasteners are a problem on all boats. Many sailors give up using any "permanent" sealants and apply butyl take under the hatch frame and under the head of the screw. This will eventually leak, but it is very easy to remove the hatch, remove the old butyl tape, clean the surface and apply new butyl tape.
round corners when patching in skin to stop cracking its just besrt practice...... Watching all you videos from the start i am thinking of touring some germanys water ways
Well done!
3 m 8115 does a God job on waterproofing.panel bond
Bravo for this job done in the rules, personally I will have cut the screws of the bolts a little shorter because they are at the end of the tightening race ... !! and it is better inside to also put a strapping rather than a washer on each screw ... !! but it's a good job, well done !!
you need to round off the korners vhen you veld in new lpates inn the hull or it may crak .
Great project, great job. I hope I can do it in the future. Thanks for sharing.
It's looking good
Hey hey. What's the intro music? nice job by the way.
Plasma cutters generally don't require that much current. If you're having current problems, you may have an easier time with your welding if you can run the machine hotter.
Nice work, maybe a career in Marine Engineering when you're all finished 😀
Looking good
I'm curious why you didn't just order the correct length machine screws for the hatches?
if wood is good, paint polyester resin over all joggle/door jams. And more of wood if needed. Keep engine door light! as possible, easy access. l know your engine bay will look like a kitchen, super clean when finished:)
well done
Why did you not add rubber gaskets when installing the hatches?
I like painting. It's authentic. Proceed.
Amongst other modern materials MDF permeates toxic fumes particularly in contact with extreme fluctuating temperatures. Spray fome is one to avoid.
i love your videos love from grecce👌👌
I’m curious about the bolts supplied with the hatches, being that stainless steel & aluminium don’t go well together (galvanic corrosion), especially in a marine environment, what material are the fixings, assuming the hatch surround is made from aluminium?
Grounds. Grounds. Grounds. Get the ground (welding and plasma) as close to the work as possible. If you have to weld a ground post directly beside the work area, do it. Grounding the equipment 10 feet from the work area will not work as well as 10 inches.
One recommendation is that all wood on the boat is covered with epoxy to make it water proof
You are doing an excellent job! No need to apologize. Is it just the amperage for the plasma cutter or is the boat made of high carbon steel? That makes cutting and welding both more difficult.
Should get toasty in there if that wood pile catches fire
All those hatch bolts will leak... You need to seal each of then individually.
mettre de l'etancheité sur les vis de fixation de la fenettre
If I'm not mistaken, the ground on the plasma cutter was attached to painted steel. This will cause all sorts of issues. Might explain some of your issues welding also.
This is a dangerous way to patch a steel hull. When you make sharp corners like this, you are creating a starting point for cracks. The welding will not prevent this, there will be a structural weak point at every corner of the patch, and the vibrations from the engine and movement through the water will make the plate move enough for it to start cracking. This can potentially sink your boat!
In order to prevent this, you'll need to cut them out again a little bigger and make the corners round with a radius of at least 20 mm.
bonjours quand vous meuler faite attention a vos vitres car les étincelles sont en fait des débris de métal qui s'incruste dans le verre et finisse part faires
e des points de rouilles je vous bon courage !!
Not enough sealant on that rear hatch, aluminum and steel expand and contracts at different rates. There has to be enough flexibiliaty to allow for this. Buytl tape is usually better
Maybe a bit premature, but have you decided / considered what kind of sonar transducer you will mount? Hull through style or ?
Cheers from Norway 🇳🇴👍
actually there is already one built in, it's a thru hull style.
@@MyFirstBoat Do you know what type ? and what style of connector pin it has to the display ? My guess is that is maybe to old for the modern systems delivered today And thanks for answering :)
Hi, IT IS NECESSARY to lubricate all the bolts with which you secured the hatches !!!
@My First Boat *_ He must, and I say again... MUST put an anti-Galvanic Corrosive sealer on ALL bolts that are Stainless Steel and that are going through Aluminium onto Steel. _*
@@liongod1000I meant the lubricant INSIDE, not outside.
I can see where a Saws-all with a diamond metal blade would come in real handy on this project. The plasma cutter is never gonna work unless you have a nice fat cord right on top of your power supply, but the Saws-all will make quick work on your hull cut out corners.
Another week of jobs ticked off the list. :)
Hi.! I have a question 😁
Do you know what will be the cruising speed of your boat
Do not forget it is always easier to remove surplus sealant than it is to add it later.
Steel boat is in excellent condition for its age ,,
classical music? check. mario kart 64 music? also check. Love it!
pastic overall ..... grinding and welding ..... fire ,???
invest in blocks of lit-ion batteries. Good stuff on ebay and local. And someone is building them.local too. Mine are all made local.
Not that it matters, but I noticed moreso on this video than others that when you are stick welding, you tend to push the stick into the seam to get that puddled shape of the weld, when you should be taking the end of the stick and making little C shapes. if you are welding left to right, the C looks like a C. If you are welding right to left, the C would be backwards. But that way you are really heating both sides of the weld and bridging the weld together, which makes that classic weld pattern. Anyway, carry on...
Just a reminder for the future.....it is a No No to have completely square inserts on a steel boat of any size. Check any boat, ship, whatever you want to call it....all corners are round it.....so all inserts on the hull MUST have rounded corners....it is a shipbuilding law....
Its crazy. He put the boat in the water and it sunk. Rumer is it was due to to much paint! lol
👍
Use angle grinder first than plasma cutter it's easier and less messier 👍👍
But didnt you buy a generator
Hallo, für den Fall, dass Du es nicht kennst, schau doch mal auf den Kanal von Manfred Welding -Plasma-Schneider für 129 €- vielleicht hilft es. Mach weiter so. 👍👍👍
Jig saw or saber saw could have been used to cut the edges.
Great job but I would get rid of all that scrap wood under the boat. A few sparks from the angle grinder or welder could destroy all your hard work.
Shame,shame Sir.
You know.
Carry on.....
As much as you had to paint I would have invested in a paint sprayer.