To increase safety when GK1 or K1 are not in use do not fully load 19 rounds into the magazine. Load only 14 and keep the middle of the empty part of the magazine aligned with the barrel. This way and with the safety on, its almost impossible to accidentally shoot the gun. At the same time you can start using the gun very fast just by turning the magazine to the loaded section. Not perfect solution but safer if you want to have a loaded gun ready to shoot.
Yes, excellent point. That was one of my suggestions to one person who was asking about self defence. Actually, that is precisely what I do with my prototype, but there is another reason why I do this, it is because my prototype with my power settings will only get about 10 - 15 shots so it is pointless to load full magazine. I should have mentioned this in this video as well...
130 Bar is my cut off point just to be safe. I've already put about 1000 pellets through mine with zero issues. It's like anything, respect it, use it correctly and safely and you'll be just fine. 👍🏻
Many thanks for the video. I experienced myself an accidental discharge of the gun: the pellet pierced the cooling tube of my compressor and got stuck into the wooden side of the box where I keep it. So your warnings about it are very welcome. You really must be extra careful.
Wow, I do hope that you can repair the compressor. At least, no one got hurt. I have many more videos prepared, but I felt that this safety video is the most important...
Hello, is there a detailed video of how to add air to the gun? I just received mine and am trying to watch as many videos as possible before I use it. I am a first time air pistol user and trying to be as safe as possible. Thank you for your help!
Not particularly for this pistol. Do you have a pump of will you fill it from scuba tank? In general, you insert the fill probe and open the valve slowly. It is best not to fill it too quickly because the cylinder warms up when you fill it. About 10 seconds or more to fill it is a good start. After that, you have to drain the hose (that is best to do quickly) and remove the fill probe. Hope this helps.
Hello Gregor, After reading the Huben K1 manual it states "You should not bump the gun around, climb a tree, or even jump with it" whether it's on safe or not as it may cause the gun to fire unintentionally(I assume), which raises a concern about the gun's ability to safely perform on a mountain hunt or any type of hunt that is proactive. A nice video would be bumping all of your airguns on their buttstock cocked but not loaded, safety ON/OFF, to see if they give up or not, this is a very important test for practical use of the product that virtually no one has done on youtube for these Airguns as far as I know. Thank you.
I absolutely agree with you. I have actually done that for most airguns. You would be surprise to find out which airguns turned out to be "safe" in that regards and which did not... I can say that in my tests, Huben turned out to be one of the safes in the "cocked" category, but the fact remains that Huben airguns cannot be de-cocked. But Huben safety is one of the best there is. Still, I would never put the pistol in a bag with full chamber in front of the barrel. If it is really necessary to have it loaded, I would leave the chamber in magazine in front of the valve empty and index it once I need to shoot (or dry fire one shot if preferred). BTW: The Trigger / safety tests I was talking about before is a topic I intended to put in the next "airgun physics" video, but there is not that much interest in those videos so I am quite lazy with it. In short, most airguns have poorly designed safeties and triggers...
@@gregorkamensek3923 I am very much interested in your findings and experience around this subject, and we'll appreciate it whenever you feel like sharing. After some research about Huben K1 mechanics, technologies, and its capabilities at long range; there are a lot of questions in my head right now, as well as some suggestions. questions: 1) why they haven't taken over the whole industry by now, I mean with this technology I would kick the biggest competitors out of business in a year or two, you can design a tiny pistol up to artillery with this hammerless design; it has so much potential, I would make an arsenal out of this design. 2) why they haven't come up with another upgraded model since the beginning? are they working on something?. Suggestions: this is how I would describe the "Perfect airgun": it's Huben K1, but the magazine can be removed and it's longer(20mm) so it can take longer higher BC bullets; the safety is somewhere around the trigger where you can work with it with your index or thumb, faster twist rate, bigger plenum, it could be a manual side-lever gun if all above changes require it to be, no big deal. simply put: the widow-maker(for partridges of course).
It is a little hard to explain without visual presentation but I will give it a try. The valve is pressure assisted, it extracts and contracts (it si made out of two parts). This is to reduce stress on the trigger sear, so it does not have to hold the full pressure force to keep it closed, as well as for simplifying the sealing of the valve. In other words, the pressure is at the same time traying to close the front part of the valve and open the rear part. The force on the rear part is slightly greater (slightly bigger surface area) and the trigger only need to hold this portion of the force as the rear part presses directly to what Huben calls "hammer" (although this is not really a hammer because it does not hit anything) which is connected to the trigger sear that prevents it from moving back. To return the valve + hammer back forward after the shot, there is a spring in the back. So the valve will only be able to fire once the force caused by the pressure is high enough to overcome the force of the already pulled sear friction and the spring. This tipping point is somewhere just below 100 bars. If you are just under this pressure, you will actually release the hammer by pulling on the sear, but the pistol will not fire as the valve still does not have enough force on it to fire. Once the sear is down, the hammer prevents it from returning to its lock position as the hammer has already moved slightly to prevent it from locking. Since the safety is designed to lock the sear and with it the hammer (and this is the best way to make this action design as safe as possible), you cannot return it back to safe. So not you are in a state with pressed trigger but the gun did not fire. There are two possible outcomes when the pistol is in this state; if the pressure increases (either because the air heated or because you filled the pistol back up), it will automatically fire one time when the pressure reaches the threshold; if the pressure decreases (for example if you bleed the pistol), the trigger will be able to rese and it will be locked again and it will also be possible to put the pistol back on safe. I hope this long explanation was effective :)
I’m not 100% sure but I think you are correct about the magazine not indexing once you go below say 1000 bar. I’ve always been able to put mine to safe once it has gone below operating pressure. I’ve prob shot 2000 rounds through it with zero issues
I would like to know how safety works internally. I've seen safety that is not reliable (2 dedicated switches in LCS SK-19 and that gun can still go full auto if dropped) Is that safety switch 100% reliable ? Also when dropped on hard floor ?
Yeah, I absolutely agree. Not all safeties are made the same way. I just might do a video on that, but the problem is that it is impossible to show this on GK1 or even K1. Maybe on the 1st version of K1 that had a side plate... For now, I can confirm that Huben safety is really safe as it locks the first sear that holds the valve (it holds the part that Huben calls a hammer although it is not a "hammer")... You can drop it and it will not go off.
I managed to reduce jams signiffically by using tight fit ammo ?barakuda 21.4 and similar snowpeak 21.4, and for slugs the mp-molds 5.55 boat tailed. Still an issue I havent figured out yet is auromatic double shooting, do you think it has something to do with trigger sensitivity or so.ething else wrongly set in my gun? My output power is set at 20 fpe, with slugs I can see up to 23 fpe without other adjustment and it shoots without mu h speed variance when I use a moderator and slugs.
Hi. Hm, not sure. Does it fire two slugs or just the valve opens twice without indexing for the second shot? If that is the case, it is probably the trigger setting: the second stage spring is too loose (the left screw on the back side of the pistol just above the grip). I will have a video for adjustment by the end of this or start of next week...
I mainly use my own slugs, but also others. I don't get jams, but the only catch is that if you use standard size .250, the tend to go in the barrel and you cannot rotate the magazine... But is does not jam the gun.
@@gregorkamensek3923 thank you. i ordered some .253 ZAN. hopefully it will help. mine also will degass itself if i turn it up more then 750 fps. i can get it to 825 fps but after 1-2 shots it will just let the air out🤷🏻♂️. hoping the .253 will fix it all.
@@Scott-cu4olHm, no it will not fix it. It will actually probably be even worse. The reason why that happens is because too heavy slug with too much friction (the .253 will have even more) and you have the power wheel (screw) too much open for the pressure you are using. I actually have video prepared about how you should set up the power and I will release it soon, probably next week. What is the pressure range you are trying to shoot? I would not go under 200 bars with the power you are trying to achieve.
Also, I will test if those ZAN fit in the magazine because huben reduced the size of their .25 cal magazine by adding lands in it. I will let you know if they fit at all... I actually had to change my mold because of that.
@@gregorkamensek3923 thank you. I don’t go below 250 bar. I have a booster pump I’m able to pump the pistol up to 5000 pounds I can shoot one full magazine and still be at 250 BAR then I always refill after each magazine. I’ve asked Huben if they want me to send it back. I’m waiting to hear from them. I think they want me to try the .253s first.
Well, depends how far over you go. At some point, it probably explodes :) like every other gadget if you don't follow the working pressure range. Typically airguns are tested to x1.5 of their max operating pressure so for GK1 pistol with 350 bar max operating pressure, that would be 525 bars. But that does not mean that it is OK to charge the pistol over its 350 bar max working pressure!!! That is just the safety margin which it has to withstand in the QC before it is shipped out... So you should never charge and airgun over its max working pressure value!!!
@@gravediggerrc 5000 PSI is less than 350 bars so you are OK. If you overfilled it by slight amount, then just fire it until you are under the SVP and then don't overfill again. You can dry fire it or with projectile... If you overfilled it by a lot (for example 400 bars or mor), then I would suggest to drain it down to SVP by the torx screw on the top of the pistol. This is because you could damage the valves if you fire it at these high pressures...
I assume you have V3+, right? I just got one pistol with this setup. It will be mentioned in the next Huben video... That is good, it is steel and it is much less sensitive...
@gregorkamensek3923 Thanks for this video! Something very important about the safety of this pistol. I sent email to Huben, but I will publish here as well to create awarness: "Safety can be set to ON/OFF by hand. (If the red dot isn’t visible means ON, if the red dot is visible means OFF)" I find the last part of this sentence to lack clarity. It does not say whether ON refers to the pistol or the safety. When I first read it I was convinced that if red dot ISN'T visible, ON, it means the pistol is ON, active and can fire! Which is the opposite of the truth! I was wondering why is that, because it seemed counter intuitive based on the RED dot. Only when I read the sentence more carefully and the rest of the text below, I understood that ON relates to the SAFETY being ON and the pistol firing ability or the trigger being OFF. Don't forget that not all people are experienced with arms and the specific terms or have perfect understanding of English. Most will not read and concentrate on each sentence. And such mistake could cost someone his life or a heavy injury! I propose you reformulate this extremely critical text to state the essence of what needs to be said. Plainly and clearly! INSTEAD OF Safety can be set to ON/OFF by hand. (If the red dot isn’t visible means ON, if the red dot is visible means OFF) • Push the safety lever to the “SAFE” position. When the safety is ON, the trigger is blocked and the air pistol cannot be fired. (See Fig.2) • Push the safety lever to the “OFF” position, now the air pistol can be fired. (See Fig.3) REPLACE WITH Safety can be set by hand. • Push the safety lever DOWN to the “SAFE” position where the Red Dot is NOT visible. The trigger is now blocked and the air pistol cannot fire. (See Fig.2) • Push the safety lever UP to the “FIRE” position where the Red Dot is visible. The trigger is now free and the air pistol can fire. (See Fig.3) In addition you SHOULD put SAFE, (Fig 2) AND FIRE (Fig 3) with big RED letters, so there can be no doubt which is which.
Yes, you are right, it is not completely clear... Although you might be one of the very few people that actually read the manual (kudos for that), it could have been written better. This is only danger to the first time use and I would expect that anyone that uses the pistol for the first time pays attention more to safety anyway but nevertheless, I agree with you. My focused in the video was about the simple fact of the power the pistol can produce and the potential delayed fire that can happen at low pressure.
You were correct in giving this information. Well done. Love my GK1 in 25 cal
👍
I had a lock up today shooting high power mode. I agree. Never take the pistol below 150 bar for safety.
To increase safety when GK1 or K1 are not in use do not fully load 19 rounds into the magazine. Load only 14 and keep the middle of the empty part of the magazine aligned with the barrel. This way and with the safety on, its almost impossible to accidentally shoot the gun. At the same time you can start using the gun very fast just by turning the magazine to the loaded section. Not perfect solution but safer if you want to have a loaded gun ready to shoot.
Yes, excellent point. That was one of my suggestions to one person who was asking about self defence. Actually, that is precisely what I do with my prototype, but there is another reason why I do this, it is because my prototype with my power settings will only get about 10 - 15 shots so it is pointless to load full magazine. I should have mentioned this in this video as well...
130 Bar is my cut off point just to be safe. I've already put about 1000 pellets through mine with zero issues. It's like anything, respect it, use it correctly and safely and you'll be just fine. 👍🏻
Excellent. I like getting this kind of feedback:)
Many thanks for the video. I experienced myself an accidental discharge of the gun: the pellet pierced the cooling tube of my compressor and got stuck into the wooden side of the box where I keep it. So your warnings about it are very welcome. You really must be extra careful.
Wow, I do hope that you can repair the compressor. At least, no one got hurt. I have many more videos prepared, but I felt that this safety video is the most important...
It was minimal damage and nobody got hurt, but these safety videos are extremely useful. Otherwise, the gun is wonderful. Congratulations!
@@josepsampere4840Yes, I agree. They are not the most watched and attractive videos, but very important. I am happy that no one got hurt.
Hello, is there a detailed video of how to add air to the gun? I just received mine and am trying to watch as many videos as possible before I use it. I am a first time air pistol user and trying to be as safe as possible. Thank you for your help!
Not particularly for this pistol. Do you have a pump of will you fill it from scuba tank? In general, you insert the fill probe and open the valve slowly. It is best not to fill it too quickly because the cylinder warms up when you fill it. About 10 seconds or more to fill it is a good start. After that, you have to drain the hose (that is best to do quickly) and remove the fill probe. Hope this helps.
Hello Gregor, After reading the Huben K1 manual it states "You should not bump the gun around, climb a tree, or even jump with it" whether it's on safe or not as it may cause the gun to fire unintentionally(I assume), which raises a concern about the gun's ability to safely perform on a mountain hunt or any type of hunt that is proactive.
A nice video would be bumping all of your airguns on their buttstock cocked but not loaded, safety ON/OFF, to see if they give up or not, this is a very important test for practical use of the product that virtually no one has done on youtube for these Airguns as far as I know.
Thank you.
I absolutely agree with you. I have actually done that for most airguns. You would be surprise to find out which airguns turned out to be "safe" in that regards and which did not... I can say that in my tests, Huben turned out to be one of the safes in the "cocked" category, but the fact remains that Huben airguns cannot be de-cocked. But Huben safety is one of the best there is. Still, I would never put the pistol in a bag with full chamber in front of the barrel. If it is really necessary to have it loaded, I would leave the chamber in magazine in front of the valve empty and index it once I need to shoot (or dry fire one shot if preferred). BTW: The Trigger / safety tests I was talking about before is a topic I intended to put in the next "airgun physics" video, but there is not that much interest in those videos so I am quite lazy with it. In short, most airguns have poorly designed safeties and triggers...
@@gregorkamensek3923 I am very much interested in your findings and experience around this subject, and we'll appreciate it whenever you feel like sharing.
After some research about Huben K1 mechanics, technologies, and its capabilities at long range; there are a lot of questions in my head right now, as well as some suggestions.
questions:
1) why they haven't taken over the whole industry by now, I mean with this technology I would kick the biggest competitors out of business in a year or two, you can design a tiny pistol up to artillery with this hammerless design; it has so much potential, I would make an arsenal out of this design.
2) why they haven't come up with another upgraded model since the beginning? are they working on something?.
Suggestions:
this is how I would describe the "Perfect airgun":
it's Huben K1, but the magazine can be removed and it's longer(20mm) so it can take longer higher BC bullets; the safety is somewhere around the trigger where you can work with it with your index or thumb, faster twist rate, bigger plenum, it could be a manual side-lever gun if all above changes require it to be, no big deal.
simply put: the widow-maker(for partridges of course).
5:57 Why would you be able to put it on safe at a certain point? There is nothing to move the hammer forward again so it can be caught by the sear.
It is a little hard to explain without visual presentation but I will give it a try. The valve is pressure assisted, it extracts and contracts (it si made out of two parts). This is to reduce stress on the trigger sear, so it does not have to hold the full pressure force to keep it closed, as well as for simplifying the sealing of the valve. In other words, the pressure is at the same time traying to close the front part of the valve and open the rear part. The force on the rear part is slightly greater (slightly bigger surface area) and the trigger only need to hold this portion of the force as the rear part presses directly to what Huben calls "hammer" (although this is not really a hammer because it does not hit anything) which is connected to the trigger sear that prevents it from moving back. To return the valve + hammer back forward after the shot, there is a spring in the back. So the valve will only be able to fire once the force caused by the pressure is high enough to overcome the force of the already pulled sear friction and the spring. This tipping point is somewhere just below 100 bars. If you are just under this pressure, you will actually release the hammer by pulling on the sear, but the pistol will not fire as the valve still does not have enough force on it to fire. Once the sear is down, the hammer prevents it from returning to its lock position as the hammer has already moved slightly to prevent it from locking. Since the safety is designed to lock the sear and with it the hammer (and this is the best way to make this action design as safe as possible), you cannot return it back to safe. So not you are in a state with pressed trigger but the gun did not fire. There are two possible outcomes when the pistol is in this state; if the pressure increases (either because the air heated or because you filled the pistol back up), it will automatically fire one time when the pressure reaches the threshold; if the pressure decreases (for example if you bleed the pistol), the trigger will be able to rese and it will be locked again and it will also be possible to put the pistol back on safe.
I hope this long explanation was effective :)
I love my GK1! Can this hammerless design be built into a single shot pistol similar to the old Sheridan CO2 pistols?
GK1 is a very integrated pistol, so I would be hard to put its action to any other pistol without significant redesign...
I’m not 100% sure but I think you are correct about the magazine not indexing once you go below say 1000 bar. I’ve always been able to put mine to safe once it has gone below operating pressure. I’ve prob shot 2000 rounds through it with zero issues
I am very happy to hear that.
I would like to know how safety works internally. I've seen safety that is not reliable (2 dedicated switches in LCS SK-19 and that gun can still go full auto if dropped)
Is that safety switch 100% reliable ? Also when dropped on hard floor ?
Yeah, I absolutely agree. Not all safeties are made the same way. I just might do a video on that, but the problem is that it is impossible to show this on GK1 or even K1. Maybe on the 1st version of K1 that had a side plate... For now, I can confirm that Huben safety is really safe as it locks the first sear that holds the valve (it holds the part that Huben calls a hammer although it is not a "hammer")... You can drop it and it will not go off.
I managed to reduce jams signiffically by using tight fit ammo ?barakuda 21.4 and similar snowpeak 21.4, and for slugs the mp-molds 5.55 boat tailed. Still an issue I havent figured out yet is auromatic double shooting, do you think it has something to do with trigger sensitivity or so.ething else wrongly set in my gun? My output power is set at 20 fpe, with slugs I can see up to 23 fpe without other adjustment and it shoots without mu h speed variance when I use a moderator and slugs.
Hi. Hm, not sure. Does it fire two slugs or just the valve opens twice without indexing for the second shot? If that is the case, it is probably the trigger setting: the second stage spring is too loose (the left screw on the back side of the pistol just above the grip). I will have a video for adjustment by the end of this or start of next week...
hi can you tell me if the gk1 is available in the uk yet? thanks barry
Don't know for sure but it should be.
just had a look I think it going to be September 2024 not very good @@gregorkamensek3923
bonjour pourez tu m aider pour le remontage dune piese stp?
what size slugs are you using. my magazine keeps jamming. i’m using Neilson 39.5 grain .25 cal. Huben has recommended finding some .253 slugs.
I mainly use my own slugs, but also others. I don't get jams, but the only catch is that if you use standard size .250, the tend to go in the barrel and you cannot rotate the magazine... But is does not jam the gun.
@@gregorkamensek3923 thank you. i ordered some .253 ZAN. hopefully it will help. mine also will degass itself if i turn it up more then 750 fps. i can get it to 825 fps but after 1-2 shots it will just let the air out🤷🏻♂️. hoping the .253 will fix it all.
@@Scott-cu4olHm, no it will not fix it. It will actually probably be even worse. The reason why that happens is because too heavy slug with too much friction (the .253 will have even more) and you have the power wheel (screw) too much open for the pressure you are using. I actually have video prepared about how you should set up the power and I will release it soon, probably next week. What is the pressure range you are trying to shoot? I would not go under 200 bars with the power you are trying to achieve.
Also, I will test if those ZAN fit in the magazine because huben reduced the size of their .25 cal magazine by adding lands in it. I will let you know if they fit at all... I actually had to change my mold because of that.
@@gregorkamensek3923 thank you. I don’t go below 250 bar. I have a booster pump I’m able to pump the pistol up to 5000 pounds I can shoot one full magazine and still be at 250 BAR then I always refill after each magazine. I’ve asked Huben if they want me to send it back. I’m waiting to hear from them. I think they want me to try the .253s first.
HELLO THERE GREGOR WHAT HAPPEN IF YOU FILL OVER 350 BAR OR 4500PSI AND GO 4900 PSI ?????
Well, depends how far over you go. At some point, it probably explodes :) like every other gadget if you don't follow the working pressure range. Typically airguns are tested to x1.5 of their max operating pressure so for GK1 pistol with 350 bar max operating pressure, that would be 525 bars. But that does not mean that it is OK to charge the pistol over its 350 bar max working pressure!!! That is just the safety margin which it has to withstand in the QC before it is shipped out... So you should never charge and airgun over its max working pressure value!!!
what should i do now i over filled air gun 5000 psi
@@gravediggerrc 5000 PSI is less than 350 bars so you are OK. If you overfilled it by slight amount, then just fire it until you are under the SVP and then don't overfill again. You can dry fire it or with projectile... If you overfilled it by a lot (for example 400 bars or mor), then I would suggest to drain it down to SVP by the torx screw on the top of the pistol. This is because you could damage the valves if you fire it at these high pressures...
My valve pin has no brass on the end .all silver
I assume you have V3+, right? I just got one pistol with this setup. It will be mentioned in the next Huben video... That is good, it is steel and it is much less sensitive...
@gregorkamensek3923 It must be that one
Can you dry fire a gk1 ? Thank you
Yes
@@gregorkamensek3923 thank you
Sorry, complete misconstruction. In most countries, such as Germany, the transport of ready-to-fire weapons is completely prohibited.
the Huben is no more dangerous than any other gun with the safety on ,Its a pointless video
@gregorkamensek3923 Thanks for this video!
Something very important about the safety of this pistol. I sent email to Huben, but I will publish here as well to create awarness:
"Safety can be set to ON/OFF by hand. (If the red dot isn’t visible means ON, if the red dot is visible means OFF)"
I find the last part of this sentence to lack clarity. It does not say whether ON refers to the pistol or the safety. When I first read it I was convinced that if red dot ISN'T visible, ON, it means the pistol is ON, active and can fire! Which is the opposite of the truth! I was wondering why is that, because it seemed counter intuitive based on the RED dot. Only when I read the sentence more carefully and the rest of the text below, I understood that ON relates to the SAFETY being ON and the pistol firing ability or the trigger being OFF.
Don't forget that not all people are experienced with arms and the specific terms or have perfect understanding of English. Most will not read and concentrate on each sentence. And such mistake could cost someone his life or a heavy injury!
I propose you reformulate this extremely critical text to state the essence of what needs to be said. Plainly and clearly!
INSTEAD OF
Safety can be set to ON/OFF by hand. (If the red dot isn’t visible means ON, if the red dot is visible means OFF)
• Push the safety lever to the “SAFE” position. When the safety is ON, the trigger is blocked and the air pistol cannot be fired. (See Fig.2)
• Push the safety lever to the “OFF” position, now the air pistol can be fired. (See Fig.3)
REPLACE WITH
Safety can be set by hand.
• Push the safety lever DOWN to the “SAFE” position where the Red Dot is NOT visible. The trigger is now blocked and the air pistol cannot fire. (See Fig.2)
• Push the safety lever UP to the “FIRE” position where the Red Dot is visible. The trigger is now free and the air pistol can fire. (See Fig.3)
In addition you SHOULD put SAFE, (Fig 2) AND FIRE (Fig 3) with big RED letters, so there can be no doubt which is which.
Yes, you are right, it is not completely clear... Although you might be one of the very few people that actually read the manual (kudos for that), it could have been written better. This is only danger to the first time use and I would expect that anyone that uses the pistol for the first time pays attention more to safety anyway but nevertheless, I agree with you. My focused in the video was about the simple fact of the power the pistol can produce and the potential delayed fire that can happen at low pressure.