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Very good videos. Now I just checked and double checked the factory Pontiac service Manual for my 1970 GTO The Timing cover bolts are 30 pounds Ft. The water pump to the timing cover are 15 pounds Ft. These are for the 11 bolt water pump. I purchased bolts at Lowes for the water pump Grade 5 Bolt sizes for the water pump 5/16 - 24 1/14 they are the Hillman brand semi polished stainless steel cap screws Timing cover bolts are 3/8 - 16 x 3" 4ea stainless regular hex the two studs for the timing cover are 3/8 - 16 on one end & 3/8 - 24 on the opposite end of thed studs. Inline tube has those but in not stainless steel for around 10.00.
Thanks Lucas, good stuff on the fastener info. For torque's I always refer to Butler Performance's website, super handy... butlerperformance.com/p-34888-pontiac-engine-torque-specs.html Have fun!
The alignment sleeves need to be installed in the block. The reason is that the holes in the timing cover are deep enough for the sleeve to go all the way in and if you press the sleeve on a flat spot in the block while putting the timing cover in place, the sleeve will slide further into the hole of the timing cover and you will bolt the timing cover unaligned without noticing.. The holes on the block are not as deep so the sleeve will always be exposed half way
I had a total rebuild on my 1968, 400 and did its 1st start up. All was perfect, except water in oil ?? Why ?? After reaching out to a great Pontiac builder I learned, pin hole in timing cover. Changed that and solved !
The most important part of this repair is not getting antifreeze In The pan when you take it off. Jack up the back of the car so it drains better before before you take it off.
I am enjoying your videos! I have a '77 stock 400. That upper water passage hole at the top of the timing cover that meets the intake. I have a leak there so I'm likely going to have to remove the timing cover to replace the seal in between. Can you tell what the correct seal or gasket is that I need to take care of it? Looking forward to looking at all the other videos!
Thanks Frederick! Yeah, that seal can be found at Butler Performance, or BOP Engineeirng. It's a whopping $2. Here's the Butler link; butlerperformance.com/i-24453800-butler-performance-pontiac-o-ring-timing-cover-to-intake-seal-spm-13562.html?ref=search:https%3A%2F%2Fbutlerperformance.com%2Fsearch.html%3Fq%3Dintake%2Bseal
Thanks so much for responding so quick! Looks like I will be doing a timing chain job while in there😁 It's the original one, 136k Do you recommend getting chain set, gasket set, and crank seal all from Butler as well? There is that one long skinny bolt at about 2 o'clock clock from that port that draws it snug to the intake should that be installed last and how snug should it be?
No worries. Yes, definitely get a new timing chain. While you're at it, always a good idea to replace seals. And, yes, Butler is the spot. Check out my intake install video... (I have two) ua-cam.com/video/zVeL7rfVOwM/v-deo.html that's my original intake... my new intake has a separate cross over; ua-cam.com/video/Zt9r-xWeMQo/v-deo.html have fun!@@widtrak77
Thanks! Looking forward to getting started on this in the next few weeks. Want to have it all done by April 1. All the road salt should be gone by then 😊Will be watching those videos here shortly. I won't be removing my intake, so when installing the timing cover torquing that long crossover bolt to 15 ft lbs still okay?
I have a coolant leak from behind the timing cover (I recently upgraded to a flowkooler). Question is, if I remove the pulley and timing chain cover do I have to go through the process of checking for TDC and timing again? I’ve never done this so I figured I would ask.
Great question! Luckily, no. Removing the timing cover does not affect the timing chain assembly, so the timing will not be affected. Have fun, and take your time!
Good question... in all honesty, I found it on ebay. I also had to source some stainless fasteners from McMaster carr too. My latest version has Gloss Black powder coated SHCS. Looks awesome. Good luck!
I absolutely love your channel. I've got a 1967 Firebird that I am tricking out. You've already saved me so much time with your tips, such as the Valley Pan with roller lifters, that was big. My son does a small UA-cam channel, and I know from his experience that it is a tremendous amount of work. GREAT JOB, thank you!
Re: the bolts that hold the timing cover on..they go into the water jacket of the block. Do you treat the treads with anything to make sure no coolant seeps by the threads? I guess it would apply to the two long studs that hold the water pump on too. Thanks - Enjoy your Video's.
Good question... the bolts aren't a big deal, but yes to the two studs. Add some RTV to the threads before inserting in the block. Thanks for the good question!
I believe I found the bolts SS at Ace Thanks for all your responses my problem is IM 68 I watch a video and I forget some of it So I watch them several times :-} what a drag it is getting old
you have any issues with the alignment sleeves at the bottom of the timing cover falling off during install.. I thought these are pressed fit onto the block first
@@FastMonty ok cool I got mine from Butler and I figured that slot was in place for expansion for a nice tight fit thank you again Monty for your help and keep on rocking with those videos Man love how your engine came out
I didn't notice you install an oil slinger. I forgot to install one, but from what I'm reading they aren't as critical with the new style of seals. I'm wondering if you used one and maybe just didn't mention it. Thanks, Patrick
Good question Patrick. I did not install one. Frankly, I had to look it up just now... because I'm not sure Pontiac was even using a front oil slinger until the late 70s. If you find any solid evidence that late 60's motors came with one, please let us know!
Good question... if it doesn't line up with the timing chain cover, when the piston is at top dead center, make a note of it on the timing chain cover which would come into play when you set your timing. Thanks for the comment!
Hey Monty really enjoying watching you putting this motor back together I have learnt so much already but I am stuck My 69 400 I replaced last week the timing chain and sprockets and all I did was slip them off and slip new back on without turning any of the motor cam and also bottom harm I did notice that the chain when I took it off was really loose with plenty of slack and now the car will not fire I have pulled it all apart again and I am looking at the timing chain I am thinking that I am a cog off ? I would love to know a process that I could try again if you have time to help Thanks Jay Australia
Good to hear from you, Jay. Sorry to hear you didn't create any fire... I know that's frustrating. As you know, the chain should NOT have "plenty of slack". I'd say it should only be able to move 1/4" inch, when installed. (Or, 6mm ha, ha.) As long as your timing dots are lined up, you should be good. I'd be willing to bet you have a timing issue. Check out my distributor install video, it's always best to make sure you're on top dead center of Number 1, install your distributor, then map all your wires accordingly. ua-cam.com/video/DM7o7FyIt1Y/v-deo.html
@@FastMonty thanks for responding I have had a good look at the cogs and there is no dot on the smaller cog I’m not sure if this is just for Manufacturing and I am trying to work out where do I start now
Hi FM I love your Allen head stainless hardware for your front cover , w/p and intake I’ve been looking but can’t seem to find all I need. Would you be so kind to share your source if possible Love your vids. Thanks Joe
Thanks for this video gives me the confidence to remove mine and reinstall, as I removed my WP and its rusted bad Im ordering new aluminum I was looking at removing the TC cover but never have done so this helps alot. Where did you get yours & the bolts, I love those bolts.
Thanks Dan... that's exactly why I filmed the process. The timing chain cover came with the car. :) The bolts were a mix of a few different "bolt dress up kits", I would do some internet searching to find your ideal look. Mine are polished stainless steel. Have fun!
Thanks. And congratulations on your project. I'm not an expert on 350's, but If you can afford it, I would upgrade to a Hydraulic Roller Cam. Have fun!
Hey Monty really like your videos. Do have a question that i hope you can help me with. I have a 71 grand prix and i can't find any specs for power steering fluid. As far as what i should be using. Do you know a web page that might have the fluid spec. Thank you keep up the good work.
Hey Bee... glad you're enjoying the vids. That's a great question. If I recall, there used to be a GM Power Steering Fluid you could buy. Made by Dexron? Anyway, I think the best source might be your local parts store, like Autozone. I'm sure they have some sort of look up table to modern day equivalent. Good luck!
These videos have helped me a lot with my 400 . If I’m not removing my distributor, where should my timing gears be lined up to replace the gears and chain, does both need to be at 12 o’clock ???
Kevin, good to hear! I would set the dots to point at each other. The crank sprocket at 12 oclock, and the cam sprocket at 6. That way you'll know your perfect. Thanks for watching!
I have a question, after much research I haven’t had much luck, after flipping my engine to replace the rear main I noticed the seal I order was to small and the bottoms of my connecting rods were shaved. Measured the crank were the seal should fit and it was 3.19. I think my motor might have some engine work done to it any ideas I’m stumped.. possible 455 crank ?
@@kevinrose6811 Kevin, that's crazy! I can't stand coming across someone else's un-explicable work. Anyway, yes, if your rod caps were "shaved" on purpose, someone was up to no good. As for journals... 400 blocks and lower use 3" mains. Anything over 400 uses 3.25" mains. Sooo, if there's a chance you measured a little low, maybe it's a 421, a 428, or a 455? Other than that I would research the serial number of the block to see exactly what it is. Let us know!
It’s definitely a 400 block it’s stamped right at the front. It’s currently on the engine stand. I’ve taken photos unfortunately this doesn’t allow me to post them. Are there any reasons why they would stuff the larger crank in the block? Going to order the 3.25 main from bop and hopfully that seals it
Yeah, confusing... I could've explained that better. Kind of irrelevant, after setting valve lash, (because you have to rotate the engine, after you set the timing) But, the point was just to make everyone aware that's where TDC is on number one. Thanks again for the awesome comments!
Hey, Great Stuff! A couple of comments.. - It looks like you're using Stainless Steel (SS ) mounting hardware. For SS, a small amount of anti-seize is recommended, as SS tends to gall at elevated temps. - See SS Torque specs @ butlerperformance.com/i-24452807-butler-pontiac-complete-engine-accessory-bolt-kit-hex-head-stainless-steel-1969-79-abo-h-5201.html Q: Why didn't you mount the two studs you had for the timing cover when you installed the gasket? Thoughts?
Rob, welcome to the channel, and thanks for the good questions... One, yes stainless steel fasteners require anti-seize if you're bolting into aluminum. Which I cover during the water pump install video. (My rule of thumb is to use anti-seize when bolting into aluminum, regardless of the fastener material) Two, the studs could be installed at this time, but not mandatory. I also install those during the water pump install video too. Thanks for watching!
Subscribe for more, click here; ua-cam.com/users/fastmontysgarage Join the "Full Monty Crew" to support the channel, and get priority tech support! ua-cam.com/channels/B2KWiUuWR_OFpJtXS94bCQ.htmljoin OR, Get your FMG hat, three color combos to choose from, check em out here; www.etsy.com/shop/fastmontysgarage
Very good videos. Now I just checked and double checked the factory Pontiac service Manual for my 1970 GTO
The Timing cover bolts are 30 pounds Ft. The water pump to the timing cover are 15 pounds Ft. These are for the 11 bolt water pump. I purchased bolts at
Lowes for the water pump Grade 5
Bolt sizes for the water pump 5/16 - 24 1/14 they are the Hillman brand semi polished stainless steel cap screws
Timing cover bolts are 3/8 - 16 x 3" 4ea stainless regular hex the two studs for the timing cover are 3/8 - 16 on one end & 3/8 - 24 on the opposite end of thed studs.
Inline tube has those but in not stainless steel for around 10.00.
Thanks Lucas, good stuff on the fastener info. For torque's I always refer to Butler Performance's website, super handy... butlerperformance.com/p-34888-pontiac-engine-torque-specs.html Have fun!
The alignment sleeves need to be installed in the block. The reason is that the holes in the timing cover are deep enough for the sleeve to go all the way in and if you press the sleeve on a flat spot in the block while putting the timing cover in place, the sleeve will slide further into the hole of the timing cover and you will bolt the timing cover unaligned without noticing.. The holes on the block are not as deep so the sleeve will always be exposed half way
Love it! Thanks for the added commentary!
Excellent tutorial. Thank you.
Welcome! Have fun!
I had a total rebuild on my 1968, 400 and did its 1st start up. All was perfect, except water in oil ?? Why ?? After reaching out to a great Pontiac builder I learned, pin hole in timing cover. Changed that and solved !
Thank God it was just the timing cover. Nice save.
Butler shows 35 ft lb on the front cover. 10 ft lb on the water pump.
Great Catch! Yeah, definitely use the Butler torque worksheet for ALL fasteners.
Any reason why you didn’t install the top bolt. Referred to as “the intake manifold to timing chain cover bolt and clamp? “. Thanks.
Sorry. Didn’t see you were there yet.
Yup, that gets installed when you install the intake manifold, on a fresh build. Thanks!
The most important part of this repair is not getting antifreeze In The pan when you take it off. Jack up the back of the car so it drains better before before you take it off.
Great point, Greg. Thanks!
I am enjoying your videos! I have a '77 stock 400. That upper water passage hole at the top of the timing cover that meets the intake. I have a leak there so I'm likely going to have to remove the timing cover to replace the seal in between. Can you tell what the correct seal or gasket is that I need to take care of it? Looking forward to looking at all the other videos!
Thanks Frederick! Yeah, that seal can be found at Butler Performance, or BOP Engineeirng. It's a whopping $2. Here's the Butler link; butlerperformance.com/i-24453800-butler-performance-pontiac-o-ring-timing-cover-to-intake-seal-spm-13562.html?ref=search:https%3A%2F%2Fbutlerperformance.com%2Fsearch.html%3Fq%3Dintake%2Bseal
Thanks so much for responding so quick! Looks like I will be doing a timing chain job while in there😁 It's the original one, 136k Do you recommend getting chain set, gasket set, and crank seal all from Butler as well? There is that one long skinny bolt at about 2 o'clock clock from that port that draws it snug to the intake should that be installed last and how snug should it be?
No worries. Yes, definitely get a new timing chain. While you're at it, always a good idea to replace seals. And, yes, Butler is the spot. Check out my intake install video... (I have two) ua-cam.com/video/zVeL7rfVOwM/v-deo.html that's my original intake... my new intake has a separate cross over; ua-cam.com/video/Zt9r-xWeMQo/v-deo.html have fun!@@widtrak77
Thanks! Looking forward to getting started on this in the next few weeks. Want to have it all done by April 1. All the road salt should be gone by then 😊Will be watching those videos here shortly. I won't be removing my intake, so when installing the timing cover torquing that long crossover bolt to 15 ft lbs still okay?
Great video, where did tou get your timing cover from? I can't decide which one to go with.
Thanks! It's my stock cover. I'd go with BOP Engineering if you need one.
I have a coolant leak from behind the timing cover (I recently upgraded to a flowkooler). Question is, if I remove the pulley and timing chain cover do I have to go through the process of checking for TDC and timing again? I’ve never done this so I figured I would ask.
Great question! Luckily, no. Removing the timing cover does not affect the timing chain assembly, so the timing will not be affected. Have fun, and take your time!
@@FastMonty one last question...i see you used an ARP bolt for the dampener, do you have the part number for that ?
Where did you get that allen head/stud bolt kit for the water pump?
Good question... in all honesty, I found it on ebay. I also had to source some stainless fasteners from McMaster carr too. My latest version has Gloss Black powder coated SHCS. Looks awesome. Good luck!
I absolutely love your channel. I've got a 1967 Firebird that I am tricking out. You've already saved me so much time with your tips, such as the Valley Pan with roller lifters, that was big. My son does a small UA-cam channel, and I know from his experience that it is a tremendous amount of work. GREAT JOB, thank you!
@@chrisgleeson6346 Thanks Chris! Glad I could help, and yeah, thanks for recognizing the amount of work that goes into production. Thanks again!
Re: the bolts that hold the timing cover on..they go into the water jacket of the block. Do you treat the treads with anything to make sure no coolant seeps by the threads? I guess it would apply to the two long studs that hold the water pump on too. Thanks - Enjoy your Video's.
Good question... the bolts aren't a big deal, but yes to the two studs. Add some RTV to the threads before inserting in the block. Thanks for the good question!
I believe I found the bolts SS at Ace Thanks for all your responses my problem is IM 68 I watch a video and I forget some of it So I watch them several times :-} what a drag it is getting old
Ha! No worries... I'm catching up with you. Glad you found some nice looking bolts.
you have any issues with the alignment sleeves at the bottom of the timing cover falling off during install.. I thought these are pressed fit onto the block first
Good question. Those sleeves are slotted... so, you can expand them slightly so they "stick" in the hole. Well,, at least mine were slotted. :)
@@FastMonty ok cool I got mine from Butler and I figured that slot was in place for expansion for a nice tight fit thank you again Monty for your help and keep on rocking with those videos Man love how your engine came out
I didn't notice you install an oil slinger. I forgot to install one, but from what I'm reading they aren't as critical with the new style of seals. I'm wondering if you used one and maybe just didn't mention it. Thanks, Patrick
Good question Patrick. I did not install one. Frankly, I had to look it up just now... because I'm not sure Pontiac was even using a front oil slinger until the late 70s. If you find any solid evidence that late 60's motors came with one, please let us know!
If the harmonic balancer isn't lined up to TDC what will happen?
Good question... if it doesn't line up with the timing chain cover, when the piston is at top dead center, make a note of it on the timing chain cover which would come into play when you set your timing. Thanks for the comment!
Hey Monty really enjoying watching you putting this motor back together
I have learnt so much already but I am stuck
My 69 400 I replaced last week the timing chain and sprockets and all I did was slip them off and slip new back on without turning any of the motor cam and also bottom harm
I did notice that the chain when I took it off was really loose with plenty of slack and now the car will not fire
I have pulled it all apart again and I am looking at the timing chain
I am thinking that I am a cog off ?
I would love to know a process that I could try again if you have time to help
Thanks Jay Australia
Good to hear from you, Jay. Sorry to hear you didn't create any fire... I know that's frustrating. As you know, the chain should NOT have "plenty of slack". I'd say it should only be able to move 1/4" inch, when installed. (Or, 6mm ha, ha.) As long as your timing dots are lined up, you should be good. I'd be willing to bet you have a timing issue. Check out my distributor install video, it's always best to make sure you're on top dead center of Number 1, install your distributor, then map all your wires accordingly. ua-cam.com/video/DM7o7FyIt1Y/v-deo.html
@@FastMonty thanks for responding I have had a good look at the cogs and there is no dot on the smaller cog I’m not sure if this is just for Manufacturing and I am trying to work out where do I start now
@@jaycritchley497 There HAS to be a dot, or mark. Send me a picture. fastmontysgarage at gmail
How do I kno if I'm a cog off on my timing tears Pontiac 350
Is that the original timing cover or aftermarket? Wondered if there were any advantages of getting an aftermarket cover.
It's the original. I honestly don't know if aftermarket covers are better, or worse? If you find out, please let us know!
Love your videos man, keep it up
Thanks! Doing my best... appreciate the comment
Hi FM
I love your Allen head stainless hardware for your front cover , w/p and intake
I’ve been looking but can’t seem to find all I need.
Would you be so kind to share your source if possible
Love your vids.
Thanks Joe
Thanks brother Joe... pretty sure I ebayed those. Just search Pontiac 400 polished stainless steel bolt kit. Have fun!
@@FastMonty
Your the best !!
Thanks for this video gives me the confidence to remove mine and reinstall, as I removed my WP and its rusted bad Im ordering new aluminum I was looking at removing the TC cover but never have done so this helps alot. Where did you get yours & the bolts, I love those bolts.
Thanks Dan... that's exactly why I filmed the process. The timing chain cover came with the car. :) The bolts were a mix of a few different "bolt dress up kits", I would do some internet searching to find your ideal look. Mine are polished stainless steel. Have fun!
Hi men , nice car GTO, I have firebird 68, i will rebuilt the engine 350 bored .40, what camshaft do you think its better for my engine? regards
Thanks. And congratulations on your project. I'm not an expert on 350's, but If you can afford it, I would upgrade to a Hydraulic Roller Cam. Have fun!
@@FastMonty ok thanks
Check out this article, I think it'll help... pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/camselect.html
Hey Monty really like your videos. Do have a question that i hope you can help me with. I have a 71 grand prix and i can't find any specs for power steering fluid. As far as what i should be using. Do you know a web page that might have the fluid spec. Thank you keep up the good work.
Hey Bee... glad you're enjoying the vids. That's a great question. If I recall, there used to be a GM Power Steering Fluid you could buy. Made by Dexron? Anyway, I think the best source might be your local parts store, like Autozone. I'm sure they have some sort of look up table to modern day equivalent. Good luck!
These videos have helped me a lot with my 400 . If I’m not removing my distributor, where should my timing gears be lined up to replace the gears and chain, does both need to be at 12 o’clock ???
Kevin, good to hear! I would set the dots to point at each other. The crank sprocket at 12 oclock, and the cam sprocket at 6. That way you'll know your perfect. Thanks for watching!
Awesome thanks !
I have a question, after much research I haven’t had much luck, after flipping my engine to replace the rear main I noticed the seal I order was to small and the bottoms of my connecting rods were shaved. Measured the crank were the seal should fit and it was 3.19. I think my motor might have some engine work done to it any ideas I’m stumped.. possible 455 crank ?
@@kevinrose6811 Kevin, that's crazy! I can't stand coming across someone else's un-explicable work. Anyway, yes, if your rod caps were "shaved" on purpose, someone was up to no good. As for journals... 400 blocks and lower use 3" mains. Anything over 400 uses 3.25" mains. Sooo, if there's a chance you measured a little low, maybe it's a 421, a 428, or a 455? Other than that I would research the serial number of the block to see exactly what it is. Let us know!
It’s definitely a 400 block it’s stamped right at the front. It’s currently on the engine stand. I’ve taken photos unfortunately this doesn’t allow me to post them. Are there any reasons why they would stuff the larger crank in the block? Going to order the 3.25 main from bop and hopfully that seals it
Did not realize that the dot on the cam gear had to point at 12:00 PM
Yeah, confusing... I could've explained that better. Kind of irrelevant, after setting valve lash, (because you have to rotate the engine, after you set the timing) But, the point was just to make everyone aware that's where TDC is on number one. Thanks again for the awesome comments!
Hey,
Great Stuff!
A couple of comments..
- It looks like you're using Stainless Steel (SS ) mounting hardware. For SS, a small amount of anti-seize is recommended, as SS tends
to gall at elevated temps.
- See SS Torque specs @ butlerperformance.com/i-24452807-butler-pontiac-complete-engine-accessory-bolt-kit-hex-head-stainless-steel-1969-79-abo-h-5201.html
Q:
Why didn't you mount the two studs you had for the timing cover when you installed the gasket?
Thoughts?
Rob, welcome to the channel, and thanks for the good questions... One, yes stainless steel fasteners require anti-seize if you're bolting into aluminum. Which I cover during the water pump install video. (My rule of thumb is to use anti-seize when bolting into aluminum, regardless of the fastener material) Two, the studs could be installed at this time, but not mandatory. I also install those during the water pump install video too. Thanks for watching!