WARNING: I miss spoke! If you're using ARP studs, the main caps get torqued to 110 ft. lbs., and the Rear Main cap gets torqued to 140 ft. lbs. My apologies for missing that edit. Subscribe by clicking this link; ua-cam.com/users/fastmontysgarage
Used this seal and it leaked. Thank goodness I leak tested it. Took it back apart. Glued the seal together with The Right Stuff black and no more leaks.
Interesting... can you share how you leak tested it? I think others would like to know. (I too love RTV, but I didn't need it this time around) Thanks for the comment!
@@FastMonty You can leak test it using 0w20 synthetic. After everything dries take your engine lift and hook your motor up to where your engine is leaning back as far as it goes making the oil lay against all of the rear main seal. You may have to take a ratchet strap to help make it lean back far enough to work. I’ll turn the crank a few times and let it go. It seriously works. That paper thin oil will find a leak with out it running. I never waist gasket on the oil pan either when I do it. Just some right stuff and go with it. If no leaks then I’ll take the oil pan back off then put the gaskets back on. I’ve never had one to leak after doing this. That’s the thing about these old blocks some are 40-60 years old. They all came out of a cast and none of them are the same. I’ve seen some guys never glue the seals together. I’ve seen guys never clock the 2 part seals and also take the old rope seal from a low mile block, soak them in oil and reuse them and never have a leak. Some guys have good luck I guess but not me lol. Thanks
@@thechestnutking736 Ha! Yeah, if something bad might happen, it happens to me too... thanks for sharing your leak test method. I did the same with my new TKX, as it was improperly sealed from the factory. But, I learned the hard way with that one... as it was leaking after I installed it. Anyway, thanks for posting the details, and for the awesome comments. See ya!
@@FastMonty My T-56 Magnum in my 70 Charger RT did the same thing but I didn’t fill it up after I got it on the lift. WTH!!’ What is the matter with Tremec?!!!
Mike, you probably shouldn’t have said you don’t want to take the crank out ever again....as now you most certainly will be taking the crank out again. 😂
This is very helpful I just installed mine exactly how you did still a little worried about it leaking no sealer just a little grease did it work good for you the last time I did this there was only the two was only the 2 piece one which dident leak thanks for all the information
I just watched an episode of golds garage he filled the anti rotation holes with silicone before he put the seal on I referred to the instructions and they also said to do that I need to know if you did that also because if you did I’m gonna be tearing my short block down again I hope you used none and it’s fine thanks for your help mike
You made me Smile ,When you spun that crank ,for the first time ,Yes Success ,Good Job ,Next time put some hose on those crank studs ,to prevent a nick in the crank on installation ,Thank You for your videos !!!
Thanks Greg! Yeah, It was a little tense in my garage, when I was test fitting the crank. So happy that my blue printing was correct. Good point about covering the studs... or, just remove the studs, ha, ha... Thanks again!
Great Job on the seal install. ! I just ordered and received a two piece viton seal from TA Performance for my 225 v-6 Dauntless build. The Fel-Pro rope seals are a joke. I have installed rope seals on old Chevys before (they were pre-molded with some taper), and the new style graphite coated ropes are way too large in diameter to fit the channel they ride in. It's as if they only use "one size fits all" and to hell with it if they don't fit right. I even called Fel-Pro and told the Tech Rep they can't possibly work correctly because they are not "pre-molded" for specific fit, even after pounding it with an extra large round bar and cutting the ends flush with the block the stick-out of the channel is almost 0.050 more than the crank journal. Impossible to rotate the crankshaft with the rope installed. I threw them in the TRASH......and installed the Viton seals.
About 6 months ago I was right where you were here. My machine guy was Blue Weber (60 years experience in Pontic machine work) and I have it all posted on my channel. To make it easy and short... he didn't want me to use the one-piece seal like you did. I didn't understand why but at least he wouldn't even look at the old rope seals from the motor gasket kit. I just don't think he understood the one-piece seal and you explained it so well. He said I needed to the BOP two piece seal and the funnest this was --- he would not install it! He made me come to the shop and fit it. He has had some failure with seals and just will not fit them, but he did oversee my fitment and he thinks BOP is the best. He knew also that I wanted to have my hands in the work. I have some miles on my 389 and it does not leak. Another point is that I put a two piece BOP on a 1978 305ci in my 1957 GMC about 6 months ago and after 500+ miles... not a drop of oil on the floor. The 389 seal was fitted on the upside down stand and the 305 seal was fitted whilst in the truck and both work with perfection. The fact is that the oil leaks there are not good, and usually not too much, but it is a leak and just plain gets on a guys last nerve! Overall I love your videos and informations you share. You go into better detail than I but I assume most guy/gals that do this know enough, but the more I see the more I think more detail is better. Thanks! PS - I strongly recommend that folks get Mr. Gasket exhaust manifold (even on OEM manifolds) gaskets and head gaskets. I had FelPro head gaskets fail me about a year ago and it's ugly. I also learned that head gaskets can be gotten in different bore sizes and that was key for my motor. As a side note it's nice to have the Sneaky Pete Lisle 27000 tool to remove the old rope seals (with the motor fitted in your car/truck) and if you're crazy - reinstall a rope seal. They can work, but it is far from dependable and not worth the risk. Bobby
Great Story Bobby! I'm actually thinking about re-doing this video with more explanation as to why some gaskets need to be sized... basically, most people are un aware of their main bearings have be align honed, and how many times... which affects the centerline height of the gasket. Secondly, I was also told after market crank hash marks can sometimes be too sharp and will eat the seal. Sooo, I'm still on the fence about adding those details. Thanks again for the testimonial!
@@FastMonty It makes a fellow wonder how they made these by the hundreds a day don't it!?! It was somewhat meatball work, but it did work. Blue told me about the failures of the early 60's GM timing gears... ever heard that? When got the Bonneville 15 years ago it poured oil and I found it was the oil pan was loose... but why? Last year when I pulled the motor apart I found bits of nylon/plastic in the oil filter bypass valve and on the screen. Blue said that the early timing gears had "plastic" teeth and they started to fall off. Ford also used plastic gears around this time that failed. The fix was to loosen the oil pan, pull the timing cover and blow out the plastic bits with a hose and fit solid steel gears. Sometimes they didn't tighten the oil pan back tight enough. It was a real mess that I'd never known about without Blue. I also had an odd bit of metal in the oil pan that was the busted off end of a fuel pump. Some of the history of these times is interesting. It really takes super work and effort to know what and how to do things.... doesn't it! Ever head about Chevy's in the 1950's where the piston rings would not seat and blew oil from the factory? The answer was to pour Bon Ami down the carb! WOW - but it worked. They had their problems then but we kinda forget that. There was a neat show on about 20 years ago called "Automobiles" that goes into some of this history - on all types of cars. I've been working on tile work for my kitchen and bath and it's been nice watching YOU do the work on these babies! In fact I am a British car guy with Jaguars, Triumphs and Austin-Healeys' but I did grow up with the lovely American beast and love them as much as you do. Looking forward to more of your videos and I'd say make a video about more detail and the next time I make one I'll be more detailed too. It makes them longer but if guys make videos about a 70 year old outboard motor that runs 77 minutes... then WE CAN TOO!!!
@@bobeaseshop9389 Ha! Wow... It really makes you realize how indestructible old school engines are... well, to a point. And saying "they don't make them like they used to" really doesn't make sense... and thank God they don't! Ha, ha... thanks again for the comment!
@@bobeaseshop9389 haha I'm just a kid to that stuff but I swear I heard about a service bulletin put out about seating rings with bon-ami if you've got an engine that's puffing from unseated rings.
@@MrTheHillfolk There is a show called "Automobiles" where they show guys pouring Bon-Ami down the carbs on Chevy motor per that service bulletin. I'm sure it's easy to find that clip.
Been considering this for my future Poncho build. The rope seals just aren't what they used to be when they outlawed the asbestos. Good video as always! P.s. The small leak stopped in the distributor valley after I slathered on the RTV along the back edge of the valley pan like a madman lol. Like I said it's NOT pretty, haha. But at least it worked and I guess it was the valley pan after all. Thanks again for the help!
Andrew, I trimmed the end where I cut it... but, I found later that the best thing to do is lightly sand the entire OD. If you have any other questions, I'd recommend reaching out to BOP Engineering. Thanks!
For kicks and giggles, yes. New Crank, New Bearings, not typically necessary to measure. Reason is, if it's out of spec, it takes a lot of expertise to shave caps and bearings, that frankly no one is good at. lol Anyway, thanks!
Great video!!! Question did you put sealant on the rear main cap surface or just in the corners? Wondering if by not sealing the surface you have no problems with leaking
Hello again from New Zealand. I don’t suppose you noticed a small sequence of numbers stamped into the outside face of the seal? I’ve been pausing and zooming in where I can but can’t see them.
The numbers on the oil seal reflect the seal dimensions, I was going to try and source the oil seal locally here in NZ as shipping out of the US at the moment is massively expensive $$.
I had no idea... not sure I would have someone try and make one. I would think a mold tool would be way more expensive than shipping to NZ, no? @@Wei55_und-stolz
Must be a dumb question, but the seal sits snug, the metal it is on spins? How can it be around the crankshaft spinning and yet keep oil sealed. Fascinating
Not sure which "metal" you're referring to? It sits snug in the block, and the crank journal spins inside it. Just like any other type of crank seal, except this is dual lipped, versus a round rope, as used from the factory. Hence, no leaks. Thanks!
@@FastMonty yes the crank journal, my apologies yes. So it’s spinning and keeping the oil inside. It’s just mind blowing for me for some reason ! Thanks for the video
I like the Best Gasket Kevlar Center Core Graphite Coated Rear Main Seal with Factory Pontiac Crankshafts. My 1976 Pontiac 455 520 Hp Factory iron heads hasn't leaked a drop of oil. I have used BOP Viton 2,-piece Rear main seals in the past. Some leak light last one used didn't leak anything. Found its super critical to have 0-1 % piston ring leakdown and zero crankcase Blowby and your crankcase Breather evacuation system used is critical. 1-piece BOP Viton Rear Main seal I would use with an Aftermarket block and a Crower or Winnberg billet crank. Pontiac Rope Rear Main Seal by Best Gasket works for me with Factory blocks and Factory crankshafts. I prefer all 100% USA Original because it was made here not China. Raw Materials cast, Forged, Billet all came from the USA !
Thanks for the comment... totally agree about having your PCV system on point. Doesn't matter what seal you use, it's gonna fail if your crankcase is trying to push oil out every nook and cranny. I went with a M/E Wagner PCV Valve. I'm about 750 miles in on this build, zero oil consumption, zero leaks, and the oil looks brand new! I love it. Here it is, if you haven't seen it... ua-cam.com/video/fdYFieOOGq4/v-deo.html Thanks again for the comment!
@@FastMonty ua-cam.com/video/VdDDDPkp6Nc/v-deo.html I spent a good part of 2021 making Fuel system changes on mine. Lots of tuning and test drives. Won every Street Race so far on the Highways here in Illinois. 130 mph is alot for my 63 Grand Prix. She gets light in the front end at 130 mph. She Revs to 7000+ rpms my 455 though I keep it 6500 rpm Turbo 400 upshifts. I have the Turbo 400 Governor Calibrated for 6500 1-2 & 2-3 upshifts. Took 3 days to science that out.
@@FastMonty ua-cam.com/video/YafukITCv1o/v-deo.html Idle quality check. Hits real clean. Shakes the ground I use no mufflers open 2-1/2 " dual pipes. Just like the Pontiac SD421 Drag Racers did 1962- 1963.
Mike how large of a bulge did you have at the seam line? Im working on putting my one piece seal in and I feel like my bulge is to large. I already did a bunch of sanding and it still seems excessive
Good question Mitch... I had a tiny bulge. Hard to explain... In all honesty, I would reach out to BOP Engineering with pics. They're very fast to respond, and will probably give you some advice, that even I'm not aware of. :) Let us know how it works out.
@@FastMonty if i didint already have a vehicle to put it in id put a 24v cummins in it for the funny. But its going in a 74 f250. Still tho, thanka for the video. Was helpfull. Ima just pull it and put a rope in it
sir have you even seen a SBC harmonic balancer seperate.. Im rebuilding a 4.3 chevy,, the sleeve on the balancer had a groove worn in it from the seal. I bought a speedy sleeve and put the balancer in the freezer for abt an hour to shrink the metal. I took it to my bench, installed the speedy sleeve and let the balancer come to room temp. I then took a rubber mallet and was getting the balancer started on the crankshaft. I noticed little pieces of rubber falling out, so I started hitting it with the mallet to take it off and the outer ring of the balancer seperated from the inner ring.,. so did me putting it in the freezer cause this? or was it just old and brittle.. the inner and outer parts of the ring seem to be glued together.. I was shocked that it seperated..
Wow, sorry to hear that... I'm no BBC expert, BUT, hitting your harmonic balancer with a rubber mallet would, and could ruin a lot of things, including your crank thrust bearings. The proper method is to use a harmonic balancer removal tool, and an installation tool. I did a video on it, for my engine... ua-cam.com/video/hU0q9k0ikJA/v-deo.html
Do you put any sealer under the bearing cap at the rear main? also when you test fit the crank, do you put motor oil or break in lube on it before tightening the caps?
Good questions, Russ... no, and no. :) When you put the oil pan on, then I put a tiny bit of RTV in the corners of the cap, where it meets the gasket. No need to oil the journals for test fitting. Hope that helps.
Would you recommend the one piece over the two piece if I am not pulling the crank? You said not recommended to flex it through, but I feel one cut is better than two. Thanks, great video! I subscribed.
Good question Kyle... if it were me, and I was trying to install it with the crank installed, yes, I'd get the two piece. While it could be done with the one piece, the risk of damaging the seal during install is pretty high. I would definitely reach out to BOP Engineering and ask them about the one piece install process, when the crank is installed. That might sway your decision. Thanks for the comment!
Found your video Googling around for my mechanic. Great info! The garage isn't sure whether to RTV the rear main seal or not, I have a Pontiac 301 in my '79 Catalina. They have a single piece seal similar to yours but a different manufacturer. How universal is your procedure to installing the single piece, rubber rear main seal? The instructions they received were conflicting, and they haven't been able to get in touch with the manufacturer. Thanks!
Good question... in all honesty, I'd buy the seal from BOP Engineering. That'll give you reassurance you have the best rear main seal. As you know, there's only one way to change a seal, and that's to pull the engine. Sorry, that's not what you wanted to hear, but an easy solution. Thanks for dropping a comment.
No problem, I thought it couldn't hurt to ask! I may order the BOP Engineering seal and bring it to the shop if they can't figure it out soon, thanks again!
You know , it a whole lot easier to see the indented cubes than the tiny chevrons. Instead of saying the chevrons face toward the timing gear , just say the side with the indentations face the flywheel.
An update for you Bill... I talked with Wade at BOP. He said some Eagle cranks have very sharp serrations that should be polished down. Stock cranks typically don't need it because of years of use with a rope seal, which polishes it down. I happen to have an Eagle FORGED crank, which could explain why I don't have sharp serrations. Whereas an Eagle Cast crank might? I guess the moral of the story is nothing wrong with polishing it down to be safe. Thanks for the heads up.
Hey Monte loving the channel and I just subscribed. Just wanted to reach out I building a 455 Olds and wanted to see how your one piece is holding up to date. After hours of deciding whether to go stock OEM rope seal or modern updated Viton seals, I finally decided to go with the Viton seal. Now the question is one piece or two piece? After watching video and watching your assembly the one piece looks to be the way to go. Again just wanting to see how yours is holding up considering you put some milage on engine. Thanks in advance
Hey Jamil, great question... it's holding up just fine. I highly recommend it. If the engine is out of the car, get the one piece seal. Have fun, and welcome to the channel!
I hate rope seals. I put rope seals when I overhauled it and in one year it started leaking. Very old technology. I think they're only good for straight 30W non detergent and thin full synthetic detergent modern oil will wash the graphite away and leak. I finally got my car on jack stands and will attempt a seal change with this new type under the car yuk 😱
@@brianmartin1133 Yep, so far so good, but, I also have a Forged Eagle Crank, soooo, maybe stock cranks have rougher serrations? Good thing to find out. Thanks for the comment.
You heard me right... It was a test. Ha, ha... BUT, I miss spoke. With ARP studs, the main caps get torqued to 110 ft. lbs, and the rear cap gets 140 ft. lbs. Thanks for the comment!
Sorry to say, it's exactly how to install it. If you're referring to the tiny bulge during the test fit, that's exactly what it's supposed to look like. (And, yes, I asked BOP too) Thanks.
WARNING: I miss spoke! If you're using ARP studs, the main caps get torqued to 110 ft. lbs., and the Rear Main cap gets torqued to 140 ft. lbs. My apologies for missing that edit.
Subscribe by clicking this link; ua-cam.com/users/fastmontysgarage
I apologize 😂 I haven't commented on all of your videos. I will work on that. 🎉
Ha! No worries, my brother!
Used this seal and it leaked. Thank goodness I leak tested it. Took it back apart. Glued the seal together with The Right Stuff black and no more leaks.
Interesting... can you share how you leak tested it? I think others would like to know. (I too love RTV, but I didn't need it this time around) Thanks for the comment!
@@FastMonty You can leak test it using 0w20 synthetic. After everything dries take your engine lift and hook your motor up to where your engine is leaning back as far as it goes making the oil lay against all of the rear main seal. You may have to take a ratchet strap to help make it lean back far enough to work. I’ll turn the crank a few times and let it go. It seriously works. That paper thin oil will find a leak with out it running. I never waist gasket on the oil pan either when I do it. Just some right stuff and go with it. If no leaks then I’ll take the oil pan back off then put the gaskets back on. I’ve never had one to leak after doing this. That’s the thing about these old blocks some are 40-60 years old. They all came out of a cast and none of them are the same. I’ve seen some guys never glue the seals together. I’ve seen guys never clock the 2 part seals and also take the old rope seal from a low mile block, soak them in oil and reuse them and never have a leak. Some guys have good luck I guess but not me lol. Thanks
@@thechestnutking736 Ha! Yeah, if something bad might happen, it happens to me too... thanks for sharing your leak test method. I did the same with my new TKX, as it was improperly sealed from the factory. But, I learned the hard way with that one... as it was leaking after I installed it. Anyway, thanks for posting the details, and for the awesome comments. See ya!
@@FastMonty My T-56 Magnum in my 70 Charger RT did the same thing but I didn’t fill it up after I got it on the lift. WTH!!’ What is the matter with Tremec?!!!
@@thechestnutking736 Ha! Seriously! FMG Quality control over here... ha, ha...
Mike, you probably shouldn’t have said you don’t want to take the crank out ever again....as now you most certainly will be taking the crank out again. 😂
Baahahahaha.... nooooo, don't say that! Ha, ha... Thanks Troy!
The day is. Gonna come where I rewatch All of your videos when rebuilding my P 400 bet.
Ha! Even I re-watch them, cuz I forget torque's, etc... Thanks for the comment.
This is very helpful I just installed mine exactly how you did still a little worried about it leaking no sealer just a little grease did it work good for you the last time I did this there was only the two was only the 2 piece one which dident leak thanks for all the information
Awesome... Mine is still not leaking. Have fun!
I just watched an episode of golds garage he filled the anti rotation holes with silicone before he put the seal on I referred to the instructions and they also said to do that I need to know if you did that also because if you did I’m gonna be tearing my short block down again I hope you used none and it’s fine thanks for your help mike
@michaelmarciano2442 that's only true for 455 cranks, they have larger mains.
@@FastMonty ok thanks I will leave it at that
You made me Smile ,When you spun that crank ,for the first time ,Yes Success ,Good Job ,Next time put some hose on those crank studs ,to prevent a nick in the crank on installation ,Thank You for your videos !!!
Thanks Greg! Yeah, It was a little tense in my garage, when I was test fitting the crank. So happy that my blue printing was correct. Good point about covering the studs... or, just remove the studs, ha, ha... Thanks again!
Great Job on the seal install. ! I just ordered and received a two piece viton seal from TA Performance for my 225 v-6 Dauntless build. The Fel-Pro rope seals are a joke. I have installed rope seals on old Chevys before (they were pre-molded with some taper), and the new style graphite coated ropes are way too large in diameter to fit the channel they ride in. It's as if they only use "one size fits all" and to hell with it if they don't fit right. I even called Fel-Pro and told the Tech Rep they can't possibly work correctly because they are not "pre-molded" for specific fit, even after pounding it with an extra large round bar and cutting the ends flush with the block the stick-out of the channel is almost 0.050 more than the crank journal. Impossible to rotate the crankshaft with the rope installed. I threw them in the TRASH......and installed the Viton seals.
Thanks Scott! Love the testimonial too... have fun!
Great info
Thanks Brandon!
About 6 months ago I was right where you were here. My machine guy was Blue Weber (60 years experience in Pontic machine work) and I have it all posted on my channel. To make it easy and short... he didn't want me to use the one-piece seal like you did. I didn't understand why but at least he wouldn't even look at the old rope seals from the motor gasket kit. I just don't think he understood the one-piece seal and you explained it so well. He said I needed to the BOP two piece seal and the funnest this was --- he would not install it! He made me come to the shop and fit it. He has had some failure with seals and just will not fit them, but he did oversee my fitment and he thinks BOP is the best. He knew also that I wanted to have my hands in the work. I have some miles on my 389 and it does not leak. Another point is that I put a two piece BOP on a 1978 305ci in my 1957 GMC about 6 months ago and after 500+ miles... not a drop of oil on the floor. The 389 seal was fitted on the upside down stand and the 305 seal was fitted whilst in the truck and both work with perfection. The fact is that the oil leaks there are not good, and usually not too much, but it is a leak and just plain gets on a guys last nerve! Overall I love your videos and informations you share. You go into better detail than I but I assume most guy/gals that do this know enough, but the more I see the more I think more detail is better. Thanks! PS - I strongly recommend that folks get Mr. Gasket exhaust manifold (even on OEM manifolds) gaskets and head gaskets. I had FelPro head gaskets fail me about a year ago and it's ugly. I also learned that head gaskets can be gotten in different bore sizes and that was key for my motor. As a side note it's nice to have the Sneaky Pete Lisle 27000 tool to remove the old rope seals (with the motor fitted in your car/truck) and if you're crazy - reinstall a rope seal. They can work, but it is far from dependable and not worth the risk. Bobby
Great Story Bobby! I'm actually thinking about re-doing this video with more explanation as to why some gaskets need to be sized... basically, most people are un aware of their main bearings have be align honed, and how many times... which affects the centerline height of the gasket. Secondly, I was also told after market crank hash marks can sometimes be too sharp and will eat the seal. Sooo, I'm still on the fence about adding those details. Thanks again for the testimonial!
@@FastMonty It makes a fellow wonder how they made these by the hundreds a day don't it!?! It was somewhat meatball work, but it did work. Blue told me about the failures of the early 60's GM timing gears... ever heard that? When got the Bonneville 15 years ago it poured oil and I found it was the oil pan was loose... but why? Last year when I pulled the motor apart I found bits of nylon/plastic in the oil filter bypass valve and on the screen. Blue said that the early timing gears had "plastic" teeth and they started to fall off. Ford also used plastic gears around this time that failed. The fix was to loosen the oil pan, pull the timing cover and blow out the plastic bits with a hose and fit solid steel gears. Sometimes they didn't tighten the oil pan back tight enough. It was a real mess that I'd never known about without Blue. I also had an odd bit of metal in the oil pan that was the busted off end of a fuel pump. Some of the history of these times is interesting. It really takes super work and effort to know what and how to do things.... doesn't it! Ever head about Chevy's in the 1950's where the piston rings would not seat and blew oil from the factory? The answer was to pour Bon Ami down the carb! WOW - but it worked. They had their problems then but we kinda forget that. There was a neat show on about 20 years ago called "Automobiles" that goes into some of this history - on all types of cars. I've been working on tile work for my kitchen and bath and it's been nice watching YOU do the work on these babies! In fact I am a British car guy with Jaguars, Triumphs and Austin-Healeys' but I did grow up with the lovely American beast and love them as much as you do. Looking forward to more of your videos and I'd say make a video about more detail and the next time I make one I'll be more detailed too. It makes them longer but if guys make videos about a 70 year old outboard motor that runs 77 minutes... then WE CAN TOO!!!
@@bobeaseshop9389 Ha! Wow... It really makes you realize how indestructible old school engines are... well, to a point. And saying "they don't make them like they used to" really doesn't make sense... and thank God they don't! Ha, ha... thanks again for the comment!
@@bobeaseshop9389 haha I'm just a kid to that stuff but I swear I heard about a service bulletin put out about seating rings with bon-ami if you've got an engine that's puffing from unseated rings.
@@MrTheHillfolk There is a show called "Automobiles" where they show guys pouring Bon-Ami down the carbs on Chevy motor per that service bulletin. I'm sure it's easy to find that clip.
Nice, i like that one piece seal. Looking good Mike!
Thanks, as always! One of the best inventions for a Pontiac engine.
Do you know if they have one for a Buick 430 c.i.? Thank you! @@FastMonty
@@CHEECHMUN Good question. I'd ask BOP Engineering. They seem to have all of our answers. Thanks!
Been considering this for my future Poncho build. The rope seals just aren't what they used to be when they outlawed the asbestos. Good video as always!
P.s. The small leak stopped in the distributor valley after I slathered on the RTV along the back edge of the valley pan like a madman lol. Like I said it's NOT pretty, haha. But at least it worked and I guess it was the valley pan after all. Thanks again for the help!
Yeah, the one piece seal is the way to go. Great to hear you stopped the leak!
Did you ever show where to trim the seal, if it buckles upward when the rear cap is torqued up?
Andrew, I trimmed the end where I cut it... but, I found later that the best thing to do is lightly sand the entire OD. If you have any other questions, I'd recommend reaching out to BOP Engineering. Thanks!
Did you do any measurements on endplay on the crank while putting the main caps on?
For kicks and giggles, yes. New Crank, New Bearings, not typically necessary to measure. Reason is, if it's out of spec, it takes a lot of expertise to shave caps and bearings, that frankly no one is good at. lol Anyway, thanks!
Thanks just what I was looking for. I will say it again excellent build. . I am trying to emulate....
Awesome Brett! Thanks for the comment, and good luck!
Mike...great video!
Thanks Tom!
Hey Mike, liking the one piece rear seal good information as always love your channel.
Thanks John! Yeah, probably the best invention for a Pontiac engine. Thanks again!
Man this is an exciting build Mike. I love LS series engine builds but there nothing like that old school Pontiac n Chevy.
Thanks Brother! It is getting exciting... wait until you see the intake manifold. See ya!
I use the BOP 1 pc seal as well. Works great and zero leaks on my motor so far.
Thanks Steve, great testimony. I've never had a leak either... awesome new product.
Great video!!! Question did you put sealant on the rear main cap surface or just in the corners? Wondering if by not sealing the surface you have no problems with leaking
Thanks Don! Nope, I just RTVd the corners before mounting the oil pan. 5000 miles no leaks so far!
@@FastMonty thanks good to know. Keep the great videos coming!!
@Don-uz9om doin my best, thanks Don!
I always used rope seals, however, that was all that was available in the70's and 80's. I must have done them correctly because I never had one leak.
Yeah, I also heard they don't make them like they used to... ha, ha... Anyway, good job! Thanks for the comment.
Found this vid from one of the Facebook groups that you posted it in. Thanks for the information. You got a sub from me.
Awesome. Welcome to the channel!
Hello again from New Zealand. I don’t suppose you noticed a small sequence of numbers stamped into the outside face of the seal? I’ve been pausing and zooming in where I can but can’t see them.
Ha! No. I don't recall... why do you ask?
The numbers on the oil seal reflect the seal dimensions, I was going to try and source the oil seal locally here in NZ as shipping out of the US at the moment is massively expensive $$.
I had no idea... not sure I would have someone try and make one. I would think a mold tool would be way more expensive than shipping to NZ, no? @@Wei55_und-stolz
Must be a dumb question, but the seal sits snug, the metal it is on spins? How can it be around the crankshaft spinning and yet keep oil sealed. Fascinating
Not sure which "metal" you're referring to? It sits snug in the block, and the crank journal spins inside it. Just like any other type of crank seal, except this is dual lipped, versus a round rope, as used from the factory. Hence, no leaks. Thanks!
@@FastMonty yes the crank journal, my apologies yes. So it’s spinning and keeping the oil inside. It’s just mind blowing for me for some reason ! Thanks for the video
@@Joniyah444 Yup, no worries.
I like the Best Gasket Kevlar Center Core Graphite Coated Rear Main Seal with Factory Pontiac Crankshafts. My 1976 Pontiac 455 520 Hp Factory iron heads hasn't leaked a drop of oil.
I have used BOP Viton 2,-piece Rear main seals in the past. Some leak light last one used didn't leak anything. Found its super critical to have 0-1 % piston ring leakdown and zero crankcase Blowby and your crankcase Breather evacuation system used is critical.
1-piece BOP Viton Rear Main seal I would use with an Aftermarket block and a Crower or Winnberg billet crank.
Pontiac Rope Rear Main Seal by Best Gasket works for me with Factory blocks and Factory crankshafts. I prefer all 100% USA Original because it was made here not China.
Raw Materials cast, Forged, Billet all came from the USA !
Thanks for the comment... totally agree about having your PCV system on point. Doesn't matter what seal you use, it's gonna fail if your crankcase is trying to push oil out every nook and cranny. I went with a M/E Wagner PCV Valve. I'm about 750 miles in on this build, zero oil consumption, zero leaks, and the oil looks brand new! I love it. Here it is, if you haven't seen it... ua-cam.com/video/fdYFieOOGq4/v-deo.html Thanks again for the comment!
@@FastMonty ua-cam.com/video/VdDDDPkp6Nc/v-deo.html
I spent a good part of 2021 making Fuel system changes on mine. Lots of tuning and test drives. Won every Street Race so far on the Highways here in Illinois.
130 mph is alot for my 63 Grand Prix. She gets light in the front end at 130 mph.
She Revs to 7000+ rpms my 455 though I keep it 6500 rpm Turbo 400 upshifts. I have the Turbo 400 Governor Calibrated for 6500 1-2 & 2-3 upshifts. Took 3 days to science that out.
@@FastMonty ua-cam.com/video/YafukITCv1o/v-deo.html
Idle quality check. Hits real clean.
Shakes the ground I use no mufflers open 2-1/2 " dual pipes.
Just like the Pontiac SD421 Drag Racers did 1962- 1963.
@@brracing7861 Ha! Looks and sounds awesome! Love those Purple Annular Boosters! Yeah, front end lightness = no fun. ha, ha... keep it up!
@@brracing7861 Dang! When my cut outs are open, it's freakin loud. ha, ha... Might need to upgrade to Fuel Injection :)
Mike how large of a bulge did you have at the seam line? Im working on putting my one piece seal in and I feel like my bulge is to large. I already did a bunch of sanding and it still seems excessive
Good question Mitch... I had a tiny bulge. Hard to explain... In all honesty, I would reach out to BOP Engineering with pics. They're very fast to respond, and will probably give you some advice, that even I'm not aware of. :) Let us know how it works out.
Will a Pontiac 3.25" Main Viton 2pc Rear Main Seal (421/428/455) fit my 239 inline 6 for my 49 pontiac?
Ohhh man, I have no idea. My gut says NO. But, maybe try calling BOP Engineering, they may know the exact answer. Let us know!
@@FastMonty apparently no one makes a rubber one for a 239 i6
@@squidoverlord3362 Hmmm, probably not enough interest to make one. sorry to hear that. I guess you could put a 455 in it now? Ha, ha...
@@FastMonty if i didint already have a vehicle to put it in id put a 24v cummins in it for the funny. But its going in a 74 f250. Still tho, thanka for the video. Was helpfull. Ima just pull it and put a rope in it
@@squidoverlord3362 Ha! A Cummins would be awesome! And, of course, a good old fashioned rope works too. Have fun!
Now that we are 1 year in, how is the rear main seal doing? Still sealed up good?
5000 miles. ZERO leaks. Anywhere. :)
are u related to the #adventureswithpurpose guy? doppelganger alert!
We're the same guy. bahahhaah, kidding. I don't know who that is.
Doing the 1 piece oil pan gasket from BOP too?
Yes, sir! Actually, it's the same one I had on prior, and I'm re-using it. Thanks Chris!
sir have you even seen a SBC harmonic balancer seperate.. Im rebuilding a 4.3 chevy,, the sleeve on the balancer had a groove worn in it from the seal. I bought a speedy sleeve and put the balancer in the freezer for abt an hour to shrink the metal. I took it to my bench, installed the speedy sleeve and let the balancer come to room temp. I then took a rubber mallet and was getting the balancer started on the crankshaft. I noticed little pieces of rubber falling out, so I started hitting it with the mallet to take it off and the outer ring of the balancer seperated from the inner ring.,. so did me putting it in the freezer cause this? or was it just old and brittle.. the inner and outer parts of the ring seem to be glued together.. I was shocked that it seperated..
Wow, sorry to hear that... I'm no BBC expert, BUT, hitting your harmonic balancer with a rubber mallet would, and could ruin a lot of things, including your crank thrust bearings. The proper method is to use a harmonic balancer removal tool, and an installation tool. I did a video on it, for my engine... ua-cam.com/video/hU0q9k0ikJA/v-deo.html
Do you put any sealer under the bearing cap at the rear main? also when you test fit the crank, do you put motor oil or break in lube on it before tightening the caps?
Good questions, Russ... no, and no. :) When you put the oil pan on, then I put a tiny bit of RTV in the corners of the cap, where it meets the gasket. No need to oil the journals for test fitting. Hope that helps.
@@FastMonty question is was a sealer needed under the bearing cap where the rear main seal is. i heard of some type of anaerobic sealer.
@@russbonneau9152 the answer is still no. Unless you have 3.25 mains, then you'd use some rtv where this seal goes, which i explaoned in the video.
Would you recommend the one piece over the two piece if I am not pulling the crank? You said not recommended to flex it through, but I feel one cut is better than two. Thanks, great video! I subscribed.
Good question Kyle... if it were me, and I was trying to install it with the crank installed, yes, I'd get the two piece. While it could be done with the one piece, the risk of damaging the seal during install is pretty high. I would definitely reach out to BOP Engineering and ask them about the one piece install process, when the crank is installed. That might sway your decision. Thanks for the comment!
Found your video Googling around for my mechanic. Great info! The garage isn't sure whether to RTV the rear main seal or not, I have a Pontiac 301 in my '79 Catalina. They have a single piece seal similar to yours but a different manufacturer. How universal is your procedure to installing the single piece, rubber rear main seal? The instructions they received were conflicting, and they haven't been able to get in touch with the manufacturer. Thanks!
Good question... in all honesty, I'd buy the seal from BOP Engineering. That'll give you reassurance you have the best rear main seal. As you know, there's only one way to change a seal, and that's to pull the engine. Sorry, that's not what you wanted to hear, but an easy solution. Thanks for dropping a comment.
No problem, I thought it couldn't hurt to ask! I may order the BOP Engineering seal and bring it to the shop if they can't figure it out soon, thanks again!
@@justinweaver7428 Yup, better safe than sorry, order the real deal Have fun!
I love the old school rope seals mwah
You love the rope seals? You mean as some sort of decoration on your workbench, right? Ha, ha... Thanks!
You know , it a whole lot easier to see the indented cubes than the tiny chevrons. Instead of saying the chevrons face toward the timing gear , just say the side with the indentations face the flywheel.
Good point Eric... either way works. :) Thanks!
The hash marks on the crank for the Rear seal has to be machined off otherwise the hash mark will tear up that rear seal and will leak.
That's interesting... I've never had a problem. Why wouldn't BOP say that had to be done?
An update for you Bill... I talked with Wade at BOP. He said some Eagle cranks have very sharp serrations that should be polished down. Stock cranks typically don't need it because of years of use with a rope seal, which polishes it down. I happen to have an Eagle FORGED crank, which could explain why I don't have sharp serrations. Whereas an Eagle Cast crank might? I guess the moral of the story is nothing wrong with polishing it down to be safe. Thanks for the heads up.
Hey Monte loving the channel and I just subscribed. Just wanted to reach out I building a 455 Olds and wanted to see how your one piece is holding up to date. After hours of deciding whether to go stock OEM rope seal or modern updated Viton seals, I finally decided to go with the Viton seal. Now the question is one piece or two piece? After watching video and watching your assembly the one piece looks to be the way to go. Again just wanting to see how yours is holding up considering you put some milage on engine. Thanks in advance
Hey Jamil, great question... it's holding up just fine. I highly recommend it. If the engine is out of the car, get the one piece seal. Have fun, and welcome to the channel!
I credit most of my minor leaks and weeps for helping to keep undercarriage corrosion at bay. Am I strange?
Ha! Definitely a good way to keep rust off of your undercarriage. Too funny. Thanks!
I hate rope seals. I put rope seals when I overhauled it and in one year it started leaking. Very old technology. I think they're only good for straight 30W non detergent and thin full synthetic detergent modern oil will wash the graphite away and leak. I finally got my car on jack stands and will attempt a seal change with this new type under the car yuk 😱
Agreed! They are the weak point of Pontiac engines. Thank God we have BOP Engineering seals. Good luck with the project!
Mike
Did you have them smooth the serrations when you had it polished ?
Nope. Was I supposed to? :)
@@FastMonty I have heard yes and no so I am sure but if you ran it that way before I guess it will work
@@brianmartin1133 Yep, so far so good, but, I also have a Forged Eagle Crank, soooo, maybe stock cranks have rougher serrations? Good thing to find out. Thanks for the comment.
I wonder why it's not already precut?
Good point. More labor? More price?
S0, you torqued the main caps to 1-4 at 100 lbs, and the rear at 110 lbs, right? Did I hear you right ?
You heard me right... It was a test. Ha, ha... BUT, I miss spoke. With ARP studs, the main caps get torqued to 110 ft. lbs, and the rear cap gets 140 ft. lbs. Thanks for the comment!
iam sorry to say it, but thats not how you put that seal on... chance is big thats not going to seal up.
How do you install it then? I thought it was ok what I saw Mike do!
@@transam4555 Ha! Agreed.
Sorry to say, it's exactly how to install it. If you're referring to the tiny bulge during the test fit, that's exactly what it's supposed to look like. (And, yes, I asked BOP too) Thanks.
Looked fine to me based on what I read on the instructions on mine
@@brianmartin1133 Thanks Brian!