Thank you again for the Ford content, Daniel. Pretty amazing how that little 289 given all its limitations, powered millions of vehicles reliably and won so many motorsports events in various series through the years. Watching with interest...
Loving the SBF projects. I also want to commend you on the 4150 content. I don't think carburetors should be thrown to the curb as old tech. Thank you for keeping carb induction relevant. The information you provide for tuning takes years of learned knowledge and knowledge passed down from the old heads.
Think you may have figured this out, but that is just a plain jane pre-67' 289. A Hi Po block has main caps that are solid all the way across although the block itself is same as the rest. Hi Po 289 heads as you noted have the cast in spring pockets and screw in studs. The ports and valves are the same for a given year. Early ones have the small 1.67" intake and 49cc chambers and later ones 1.78 just like all other 289 and 54cc chamber. The hi po 289 also had a rod with different machining with a 3/8" bolt with a straight cut head and different cap. The cranks were selected for High Nodular content and usually have a polish mark on the last counterweight where they tested them. Hi po 289 also uses a different balancer and a hang on weight, SFT cam, and exhaust manifolds with bigger passages. Distributor is centrifuge only and dual point. The intake is the same cast iron piece as a regular 289-4v although the carb is bigger. Hope he did not pay much for that 289.
I certainly dont know everything but I know a fair amount and everytime I watch one of your videos I learn that much more. I also realize from watching your videos that a majority of machine shops around my area either dont know diddly or they figure the customer wont know any better. It seems to me they take short cuts or just do crappy work because people are uneducated. I cant thank you enough for taking the time to teach all of us.
I'm not a newer ford fan but the 289 and gm 283 with a cam are the greatest derby motors ever. Lots of wins, These old school motors and carbs carried the companies for years.
It never ceases to amaze me how much things can move over time and heat cycles. You couldn't bore those mains that screwed up if you wanted to but give them time, heat and some load.... Thanks for the videos.
If the valve lengths work out, the early 351 Windsor valves were 1.850/1.540 if memory serves, compared to a typical 1.780/1.450 SBF. The later 302 heads once they go to the 14 MM spark plugs will take a 1.9/1.6 valve package, but you are completely correct on the port size imbalance and horrible shrouding of the chambers.
Can’t tell you how valuable and informative your videos are. I’ll be taking my engine in shortly to have all of the machining done and seeing how everything is done the right way. Also your Holley carb video was great timing as I will be using a Holley 750 on my build. Thank You to you and your family for taking the time to document it all. Much appreciated!!!!
Yes, these are the very early 260/289 heads with tiny ports and seats. Later 289s had a better casting, and having grown up with the 60s and 70s stuff, I have put my fair share of 1.94/1.6 chevy valves in the 66 and up heads. The biggest deal about them is that they were .100 longer stems, but when you did this, it was automatic to machine for screw in studs and adjustable valvetrain making it ok.
Worked in a 4 state machine shop. You do a great job of explanation. May talk to the customer on GT40 heads. I don't know if they can be had on the cheap, but they do flow good.
I heard that Hipo heads also have cast in pushrod guides. Look at the double D shape of the pushrod holes on those heads. I used to have a pair like that.
i never really thought of the timing chain being effected and deffinetly dident know you could tighten it by adjusting the tool thats pretty amazing massive segway but ive always noticed that engine machinists/builders have the same kinda hands wide and meaty palms and defined knuckles my friend who builds engines is the same way and for some reason ive neve seen hands like that anywhere else
very informative vid concerning the details and intricacies of align honing. main bearing caps on this block are standard 289 caps. hipo 289 caps have machined vertical sides fore and aft (top to bottom), not as-cast reduced thickness (most of the way) as these have. just some info.
There in the HP289 picture are the two dots, cast in slots for pushrods, screw in studs, seat cups. Again, a 1.875/1.900 intake valve and 1.550/1.560 exhaust valve are better choices for those heads. I have ported Ford cylinder heads since 1972, so BTDT many times over the years. Those heads will flow 230/170 with 1.9/1.56 valves and complete porting the ports.
You cannot effect the housing centerline by extending the guide shoes beyond squaring the mandrel in the block. The purpose of the guide shoes is to have equal pressure on both the shoes and the stones to bring the housing back into round. If you "raise the bar higher" in the block saddles, whatever force/cutting that's happening when the stones are up will also happen at every point in rotation of the mandrel, if that makes sense. What is true is the crank centerline only moves approximately half what is cut off the caps. FYI I always cut the side of the cap in the grinder before grinding the mating surfaces because the side of the cap is rarely smooth and/or perpendicular to the mating surface. This is especially important on the thrust cap because anything other than a square cut is going to result in a cocked cap side thrust bearing which reduces crank end play and thrust bearing contact area.
The instructions say we can move the bore up, just repeating, but I never have issues so not a problem either way, my cap grinder needs the new style clamp so I can cut the sides, gotta get that updated clamp, ty for the input.
The instructions say we can move the bore up, just repeating, but I never have issues so not a problem either way, my cap grinder needs the new style clamp so I can cut the sides, gotta get that updated clamp, ty for the input.
@@powellmachineinc You'll love cutting the side first as you well know many of the factory caps are very rough and rarely perpendicular to the mating surfaces. The only caps I don't bother with the side are the LS caps, they are pretty much spot on.
1.94/1.60 are max if you un shroud .200" and reeeealy port the head to handle it. HOURS!!! 184 /150 are fine with a good pocket port and cleanup. Its not the valve diameter problem, its the port shape and swirl. Never forget that the biggest restriction is a partially closed valve = valve job etc 👍👍😎 289 ports are the same as 5.0 E7TE Mustang... 3 bar GT40 heads are just 69-73 351W heads with small spark plugs and '74 and later sled type rocker arms. 144 cc ports 60+ chambers. 74+ W heads are small ports like 289, small plugs, and big chambers. Yes chambers are all different. 3 or 4 bar Explorer heads are ahead of the game, stock for stock. 289 heads are 53.5 cc chambers. Most all the others are 60-62. That's the simple of it.
My family learned what a timing belt was in 1994. It went boom on mom's 1985 Nissan Maxima. I hated timing belts with a passion ever since. I loved the Maxima for having Tron and Knight Rider stuff. However, the unreliability of it might have been why I learned auto repair. I do know it made me want the 300ZXTT the moment it went on sale, and I know an article I read about cranking up boost in a 300ZXTT led me to the GTR.
Maybe you answered this question and I didn’t get it. Since both ends of hone are not supported, how does one know that the main bores end up in alignment with whatever they’re supposed to be on alignment with? When you’re assessing a block, what does everything reference off of? Are the main bores and the cam bearing bores supposed to be parallel? If so, and they are not, can the line hone bring those two lines parallel? Thanks for the great videos!!
Yup, those heads are tiny. With a lot of work by someone who really knows those heads they will make some fair power. But an aftermarket head will certainly make more power easily. Just depends on what the customer wants. Those mains where way out. Just shows how far off that stuff was back in the day. And it still didn't blow up.
@@hotrodray6802 Porting any iron head is a PITA and with all the good aftermarket heads today only something to do if you want OE or have a lot of time and can do your own stuff. That said is not hard to make those heads work. the GT40 head was based on the GT40 head developed in the 1960's and had revised ports. Is a shame Ford kept it for the race guys only. Anyway you take a GT40 head and you port the 289 head to be just like it. Is really simple. Add in some 1.90" intake and 1.60" exhaust valves and the right valve job and you are done. Most gains is in the valve job and first 1/2" into the bowl anyway.
So when you do this..say the customer has to buy new caps for whatever reason….would they have to immediately have to send them to u to have them cut?? Or would they b able to buy new ones and throw them on??
Hey Daniel, Time here, the folks blabbin about timing chain tightness, JUST DONT KNOW...if u move the crank .005 closer to cam bore, i dont even think THAT wud cause an alarm........unless its 700 hp, and we got stress issues......ur fine my brother......movin a crank .0015.is nothin.....unless its a Stock eliminator/super stock, or just a BIG power build.......jus sayin...TY sir!!
@@hotrodray6802 hmmmm, never knew that, good info to keep in mind, TY sir!!......at least ur not one of the uninformed, givin Daniel flack for stuff they dont know....appreciate ur intelligent retort!!!
That's odd about your valve issues. I built a hot street 289 a few months ago that kicked my butt fighting me every which way (along with the customer bugging me, until I finished and he vanished). I put in a set of 1.94/1.5 SBC valves in there to get fresh meat. I was able to open up the throat to 85%(I think) without getting wet and most of the intake was unshrowded and I didn't have any issues with the spark plug location. I'm not old enough to have been alive in the 60's when hotrodding was done on the machines not in a catalog. And you used what you had. But using those SBC valves gave me a very low spring installed height. (and the customer wanted to use stock valve covers over roller rockers and screw-in studs). Most likely just another way Fords are goofy I guess when it comes to your heads. I had the same type of learning curve with goofyness on my 351W I built for my street legal stock car. Ford really likes to reinvent the wheel for no reason.
i can understand not having 8 different sized shirts but i would love to see a 5XL. The 3x and 4x would be nice but i know those shirts shrink and a 2XL becomes an XL undershirt. i would rather wear a shirt that's too big than let it all hang out with a small shirt. i hope this rant feeds the algorithm.
The best thing you can do for a 289 is to fit 1969-1972 closed chamber heads to it after reducing chamber size. I did this to my brother's 289 and it screams.
If you could fit those valves they would be so shrouded they would make less flow. I like GM products curious if you run into that problem on their mains, almost looked like cap or really bearing walk.
Is there a trustworthy site/used supply that you recommended? I'm wanting to start with a wash tank/seat machine/head surface grinder, and a valve stem cutter. Thanks
I watched a video where a respected engine builder discussed torque plates on a SBF. He claims that due to the architecture of a SBF block, the torque forces from the heads can distort the main clearances. I'm a Ford guy and have never heard this. Is this anything you've experienced. Of course this is regarding very high performance machining.
I’d be more worried about the torque converter being centered and the transmission housing being centered than I would timing chain. Do you do anything with the transmission locating dowels after you do this line boring, so that the pump bushing isn’t getting worn by the converter?
Torque converter runout spec is usually around .006". Moving the crank a thou isn't going to be a deal breaker. (and that's assUming it was dead nuts centered before the hone. It wasn't). But if someone wanted to get real anal about it, you can always set up a bellhousing and center it on the crank like you normally set up a manual.
I wonder, how much, if any, does bolting on the heads and torqueing them to spec, distort the bottom end, concerning the mains? I'm sure in building race engines this has been scienced out, especially with engines with head studs that pull from down in the bottom end, like LS engines and i have no idea what others, just seeing how the 289 was twisted up made me wonder. Can imparting a load on top affect the bottom, is what i'm trying to say?
A question on the loose timing chain issue line honing the crank mains reduces the center line dimension in relation to the center line of the cam ? That being said whenever possible if maintaining timing chain tension was critical double roller and soaked in oil before installing was what worked for me . Timing chains depending on severity of use a going to stretch. Any way no criticism here just wondering. Enjoy the video’s thanks
Intake valve is shrouded by combustion does that hurt airflow right????????? Better off with aftermarket head iron or alum. I have set of iron GT40 head from Ford Motorsports that I got in 1994. Machine shop hated them because they are hard like diesel iron (high nickel). I now have AFR185 heads on 347 now
I wasn't trying to make a derogatory torque plate remark. This was something I heard from BarryTs Garage. He is an old dude and was talking about Ford blocks and main clearance. Just wondering if Daniel has ever heard of this.
@@powellmachineinc Some not all K code Mustangs had the vin# on the right side of the block towards the front. Most Shelby GT 350's did.....Your videos are priceless
@@powellmachineinc not that I’m doubting but please explain in an other episode. I’m figuring since more CI would mean more flow needed. I’m trying to learn
In the day racers put the 69-70 W head on 289 and got power... But chambers went from 53.5 to 60+ and hurt compression... Even with the power gain. Ports went from @127 to 144 cc We tried to mill the heads 020 and use a 027 gasket to recover compression. Pistons down about 012 average +27 gave us 42 quench.
Hipo heads have cast in valve pockets and pushrod guides along with screw in rocker studs. They are not worth spending money on unless it's a numbers matching mustang. E7te heads are better and they are everywhere for cheap.
Your very repetitive with the line honing on all your blocks, know pretty much how much stock will come off each time with 25-30 strokes, that comes with experience for sure. And yeah that crank bore was twisted up, and you did a great recovery.
Thank you again for the Ford content, Daniel. Pretty amazing how that little 289 given all its limitations, powered millions of vehicles reliably and won so many motorsports events in various series through the years. Watching with interest...
My pleasure!
Loving the SBF projects. I also want to commend you on the 4150 content. I don't think carburetors should be thrown to the curb as old tech. Thank you for keeping carb induction relevant. The information you provide for tuning takes years of learned knowledge and knowledge passed down from the old heads.
Tyvm, we appreciate viewer's who understand the importance of passing this information along!
Think you may have figured this out, but that is just a plain jane pre-67' 289. A Hi Po block has main caps that are solid all the way across although the block itself is same as the rest. Hi Po 289 heads as you noted have the cast in spring pockets and screw in studs. The ports and valves are the same for a given year. Early ones have the small 1.67" intake and 49cc chambers and later ones 1.78 just like all other 289 and 54cc chamber. The hi po 289 also had a rod with different machining with a 3/8" bolt with a straight cut head and different cap. The cranks were selected for High Nodular content and usually have a polish mark on the last counterweight where they tested them. Hi po 289 also uses a different balancer and a hang on weight, SFT cam, and exhaust manifolds with bigger passages. Distributor is centrifuge only and dual point. The intake is the same cast iron piece as a regular 289-4v although the carb is bigger. Hope he did not pay much for that 289.
Correct, we never thought the block was
👍👍
This is one of the best engine channels on UA-cam.
Tyvm
I certainly dont know everything but I know a fair amount and everytime I watch one of your videos I learn that much more. I also realize from watching your videos that a majority of machine shops around my area either dont know diddly or they figure the customer wont know any better. It seems to me they take short cuts or just do crappy work because people are uneducated. I cant thank you enough for taking the time to teach all of us.
Unfortunately this is true
Thanks for taking extra time to explain things. Taking good care of the little Ford.
Glad to help
I'm not a newer ford fan but the 289 and gm 283 with a cam are the greatest derby motors ever. Lots of wins, These old school motors and carbs carried the companies for years.
“pretty and happy” Who could ask for more? Really enjoying this. Many thanks for your videos!
My pleasure!
It never ceases to amaze me how much things can move over time and heat cycles. You couldn't bore those mains that screwed up if you wanted to but give them time, heat and some load.... Thanks for the videos.
💯, ty!
Tight belts will suck that crank up
If the valve lengths work out, the early 351 Windsor valves were 1.850/1.540 if memory serves, compared to a typical 1.780/1.450 SBF. The later 302 heads once they go to the 14 MM spark plugs will take a 1.9/1.6 valve package, but you are completely correct on the port size imbalance and horrible shrouding of the chambers.
I have used 305 Chevy valves 1.5/1.840 in 289's, valve length etc. works out fine.
Always something new to learn, thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
Can’t tell you how valuable and informative your videos are. I’ll be taking my engine in shortly to have all of the machining done and seeing how everything is done the right way. Also your Holley carb video was great timing as I will be using a Holley 750 on my build. Thank You to you and your family for taking the time to document it all. Much appreciated!!!!
Absolutely, this trade is gonna be lost, I'm trying to do my part to save it and leave a record.
Great balance of the detail needed while keeping things moving for an amateur wrench like myself. Sub'd!
Thanks for the sub!Ryan! We really appreciate it
Watch, all your uploads! But, Fords have a special place, in my heart.😃
Right on!
I've got a virgin 289 C code with 54K miles. Never been cracked open.
Thanks for the timing chain lesson! Wish I was close enough to send you my Cleveland..
Definitely, hope u find a qualified shop
Yes, these are the very early 260/289 heads with tiny ports and seats. Later 289s had a better casting, and having grown up with the 60s and 70s stuff, I have put my fair share of 1.94/1.6 chevy valves in the 66 and up heads. The biggest deal about them is that they were .100 longer stems, but when you did this, it was automatic to machine for screw in studs and adjustable valvetrain making it ok.
Excellent video as always.
Glad you enjoyed it
Damnit!! I was supposed to go to bed 2 hours ago!!
Lol
Definitely a process, the more ya learn ((remember sometimes) the more ya know. Really enjoying the cast iron content.
Ty, glad u like!
The chevy 305 uses a 1.840 intake with a 1.5 exhaust valve.
The should give you what you want.
Definitely
Worked in a 4 state machine shop. You do a great job of explanation. May talk to the customer on GT40 heads. I don't know if they can be had on the cheap, but they do flow good.
Definitely
Good to see some parts getting a new lease on life. Some good info also on the previous vid on the HOLLEY stuff.
Glad you liked it!
Hipo cyl heads , spring pockets and screw in studs , all else the same
Correct, after some research that's what I found
I heard that Hipo heads also have cast in pushrod guides. Look at the double D shape of the pushrod holes on those heads. I used to have a pair like that.
351w valves should be fine; 1.84/1.54”. Pocket port it and convert to a roller cam. Thanks for the line hone tutorial.
Yw
Great video on old iron.
Glad you enjoyed it
i never really thought of the timing chain being effected and deffinetly dident know you could tighten it by adjusting the tool thats pretty amazing
massive segway but ive always noticed that engine machinists/builders have the same kinda hands wide and meaty palms and defined knuckles my friend who builds engines is the same way and for some reason ive neve seen hands like that anywhere else
Lol
Great work 👌
Thanks ✌️
very informative vid concerning the details and intricacies of align honing. main bearing caps on this block are standard 289 caps. hipo 289 caps have machined vertical sides fore and aft (top to bottom), not as-cast reduced thickness (most of the way) as these have. just some info.
Yeah, I'm sure the block is just a std piece
@@powellmachineinc what is the casting number on that block? On the pad above the starter motor, rh rear side. Cheers
There in the HP289 picture are the two dots, cast in slots for pushrods, screw in studs, seat cups. Again, a 1.875/1.900 intake valve and 1.550/1.560 exhaust valve are better choices for those heads. I have ported Ford cylinder heads since 1972, so BTDT many times over the years. Those heads will flow 230/170 with 1.9/1.56 valves and complete porting the ports.
Can you provide a full flow sheet?, what was the air velocity over the short turn? Average csa? Port cc? Throat percentage?
Back in the old days we used the 1.94 and 1.6 . If i remember right they may have cut the 1.94 to 1.9 going back 35 years lol 😂
I've used those on gt40s, but they have a larger chamber to accommodate those valves.
A ford buddy of mine would always tell me to go a little small when he had me turn a sbf crank for him.
Check out SI valves they offer what they call seat saver valves that have
.030 larger head size.
Yes, we buy from them, ty!
You cannot effect the housing centerline by extending the guide shoes beyond squaring the mandrel in the block. The purpose of the guide shoes is to have equal pressure on both the shoes and the stones to bring the housing back into round. If you "raise the bar higher" in the block saddles, whatever force/cutting that's happening when the stones are up will also happen at every point in rotation of the mandrel, if that makes sense.
What is true is the crank centerline only moves approximately half what is cut off the caps.
FYI I always cut the side of the cap in the grinder before grinding the mating surfaces because the side of the cap is rarely smooth and/or perpendicular to the mating surface. This is especially important on the thrust cap because anything other than a square cut is going to result in a cocked cap side thrust bearing which reduces crank end play and thrust bearing contact area.
The instructions say we can move the bore up, just repeating, but I never have issues so not a problem either way, my cap grinder needs the new style clamp so I can cut the sides, gotta get that updated clamp, ty for the input.
The instructions say we can move the bore up, just repeating, but I never have issues so not a problem either way, my cap grinder needs the new style clamp so I can cut the sides, gotta get that updated clamp, ty for the input.
@@powellmachineinc You'll love cutting the side first as you well know many of the factory caps are very rough and rarely perpendicular to the mating surfaces. The only caps I don't bother with the side are the LS caps, they are pretty much spot on.
excelente trabajo saludos
Nice job
Tyvm
One of the 1st casualties of worn mains is the auto tranny converter to pump bushing.
Tight belts.
@@hotrodray6802 Worn mains cause tight belts?
Finally, Finally you got a haircut. Was worried you were becoming a California hippy. 🤣🤣😂
Lol, u got jokes 😃
1.94/1.60 are max if you un shroud .200" and reeeealy port the head to handle it.
HOURS!!!
184 /150 are fine with a good pocket port and cleanup.
Its not the valve diameter problem, its the port shape and swirl.
Never forget that the biggest restriction is a partially closed valve = valve job etc 👍👍😎
289 ports are the same as 5.0 E7TE Mustang...
3 bar GT40 heads are just 69-73 351W heads with small spark plugs and '74 and later sled type rocker arms. 144 cc ports 60+ chambers.
74+ W heads are small ports like 289, small plugs, and big chambers.
Yes chambers are all different.
3 or 4 bar Explorer heads are ahead of the game, stock for stock.
289 heads are 53.5 cc chambers.
Most all the others are 60-62.
That's the simple of it.
Good point!!
Ty
we used to go to 1.840 in 1.540 ex
I was thinking I used to read about people doing that and 1.84 was stuck in my head, but I’m no cylinder head guy.
Timing belt make a good strap !!
Absolutely, and free!
My family learned what a timing belt was in 1994. It went boom on mom's 1985 Nissan Maxima.
I hated timing belts with a passion ever since.
I loved the Maxima for having Tron and Knight Rider stuff. However, the unreliability of it might have been why I learned auto repair. I do know it made me want the 300ZXTT the moment it went on sale, and I know an article I read about cranking up boost in a 300ZXTT led me to the GTR.
Maybe you answered this question and I didn’t get it. Since both ends of hone are not supported, how does one know that the main bores end up in alignment with whatever they’re supposed to be on alignment with? When you’re assessing a block, what does everything reference off of? Are the main bores and the cam bearing bores supposed to be parallel? If so, and they are not, can the line hone bring those two lines parallel? Thanks for the great videos!!
I like the sbf, but never had a Hippo 289 just a plain old 289 and a bunch of 302's. So, did Ford make a canted valve layout like poly 315 and 318?
Not tjT I'm aware of
Only the Cleveland's, and the 69-70 Boss 302 which was the original Cleveland head on the 289/302 "Windsor" block.
Yup, those heads are tiny.
With a lot of work by someone who really knows those heads they will make some fair power. But an aftermarket head will certainly make more power easily.
Just depends on what the customer wants.
Those mains where way out.
Just shows how far off that stuff was back in the day. And it still didn't blow up.
Yep
Takes a LOT of time to port 289 iron heads. They'll still barely go 200 unless you have a lot of flow bench time.
Stock is 150.
@@hotrodray6802 Porting any iron head is a PITA and with all the good aftermarket heads today only something to do if you want OE or have a lot of time and can do your own stuff. That said is not hard to make those heads work. the GT40 head was based on the GT40 head developed in the 1960's and had revised ports. Is a shame Ford kept it for the race guys only. Anyway you take a GT40 head and you port the 289 head to be just like it. Is really simple. Add in some 1.90" intake and 1.60" exhaust valves and the right valve job and you are done. Most gains is in the valve job and first 1/2" into the bowl anyway.
I agree with comment below 1.84 intake valve from gt40 heads or 351 would be good
So when you do this..say the customer has to buy new caps for whatever reason….would they have to immediately have to send them to u to have them cut?? Or would they b able to buy new ones and throw them on??
New caps would have to be bored, they come small
Are you converting those rocker studs to screw in?
Probably
Hey Daniel,
Time here, the folks blabbin about timing chain tightness, JUST DONT KNOW...if u move the crank .005 closer to cam bore, i dont even think THAT wud cause an alarm........unless its 700 hp, and we got stress issues......ur fine my brother......movin a crank .0015.is nothin.....unless its a Stock eliminator/super stock, or just a BIG power build.......jus sayin...TY sir!!
Definitely
Cloyes makes chains for 1.5 etc
@@hotrodray6802 hmmmm, never knew that, good info to keep in mind, TY sir!!......at least ur not one of the uninformed, givin Daniel flack for stuff they dont know....appreciate ur intelligent retort!!!
Stock 351w intake valves, and for exhaust valves just 351w valves turned down to 1.5".
That's odd about your valve issues. I built a hot street 289 a few months ago that kicked my butt fighting me every which way (along with the customer bugging me, until I finished and he vanished).
I put in a set of 1.94/1.5 SBC valves in there to get fresh meat. I was able to open up the throat to 85%(I think) without getting wet and most of the intake was unshrowded and I didn't have any issues with the spark plug location. I'm not old enough to have been alive in the 60's when hotrodding was done on the machines not in a catalog. And you used what you had. But using those SBC valves gave me a very low spring installed height. (and the customer wanted to use stock valve covers over roller rockers and screw-in studs).
Most likely just another way Fords are goofy I guess when it comes to your heads. I had the same type of learning curve with goofyness on my 351W I built for my street legal stock car.
Ford really likes to reinvent the wheel for no reason.
There's just know way increasing the int valve .200 is going to be a positive move in this head
i can understand not having 8 different sized shirts but i would love to see a 5XL. The 3x and 4x would be nice but i know those shirts shrink and a 2XL becomes an XL undershirt. i would rather wear a shirt that's too big than let it all hang out with a small shirt.
i hope this rant feeds the algorithm.
Lol
Perhaps big and tall catalogs have it?
The best thing you can do for a 289 is to fit 1969-1972 closed chamber heads to it after reducing chamber size. I did this to my brother's 289 and it screams.
How do you dress all the stones to keep them consistent?
Flips the block back and forth. (and doesn't put the death monkey load on them)
If you could fit those valves they would be so shrouded they would make less flow. I like GM products curious if you run into that problem on their mains, almost looked like cap or really bearing walk.
I have had some buicks like that
289 with 194 can be unshrouded .200"
Is there a trustworthy site/used supply that you recommended?
I'm wanting to start with a wash tank/seat machine/head surface grinder, and a valve stem cutter.
Thanks
Na, I just hunt all the places and look for deals
I watched a video where a respected engine builder discussed torque plates on a SBF. He claims that due to the architecture of a SBF block, the torque forces from the heads can distort the main clearances. I'm a Ford guy and have never heard this. Is this anything you've experienced. Of course this is regarding very high performance machining.
Never seen it
This absolutely was not a torque plate jab at your work. I was honestly wondering if you ever heard the head distorting the bottom end.
Miniscule reality.
Majoring on minor things.
Gazillions have been run the old way.
@@paul44235I've heard of that on northstars.
I’d be more worried about the torque converter being centered and the transmission housing being centered than I would timing chain. Do you do anything with the transmission locating dowels after you do this line boring, so that the pump bushing isn’t getting worn by the converter?
There not in line from the factory, we have a jig for sbc's to ream tje dowels off the crank centerline
Torque converter runout spec is usually around .006". Moving the crank a thou isn't going to be a deal breaker. (and that's assUming it was dead nuts centered before the hone. It wasn't).
But if someone wanted to get real anal about it, you can always set up a bellhousing and center it on the crank like you normally set up a manual.
@@earlbrown Yea, like I said, that would be my worry (and not the timing chain), since they’re usually not spot on from the factory.
Maybe a 305 4bbl chevy valve, 1.84" int 1.50" exh
Possible, but I think that's probably still a little big
I wonder, how much, if any, does bolting on the heads and torqueing them to spec, distort the bottom end, concerning the mains? I'm sure in building race engines this has been scienced out, especially with engines with head studs that pull from down in the bottom end, like LS engines and i have no idea what others, just seeing how the 289 was twisted up made me wonder. Can imparting a load on top affect the bottom, is what i'm trying to say?
It moves gen 3 ls blocks alot
Caps got over reved or tons of torque pushing the crank down distorting the cap
Will you be converting to screw in rocker studs?
Not sure, will have to confirm with the customer
@@powellmachineinc Pinning them works well for not all out racing, less expensive.I like your thorough work.
A question on the loose timing chain issue line honing the crank mains reduces the center line dimension in relation to the center line of the cam ? That being said whenever possible if maintaining timing chain tension was critical double roller and soaked in oil before installing was what worked for me . Timing chains depending on severity of use a going to stretch. Any way no criticism here just wondering. Enjoy the video’s thanks
Would the larger valves take up more room in the chamber and cause higher compression?
Na,
I thought HiPo main caps were straight no taper like a stock 289......
The was never thought to be , just head's
HIPOs had beefier caps 👍👍
Intake valve is shrouded by combustion does that hurt airflow right????????? Better off with aftermarket head iron or alum. I have set of iron GT40 head from Ford Motorsports that I got in 1994. Machine shop hated them because they are hard like diesel iron (high nickel). I now have AFR185 heads on 347 now
Shrouded valves kill flow. It's like have a MUCH smaller valve twice per lift cycle.
OMG i cant believe you didnt put a torque plate on that block when you line honed it. LMAO...... There i said it so the KB pro's dont have too
Lol
I wasn't trying to make a derogatory torque plate remark. This was something I heard from BarryTs Garage. He is an old dude and was talking about Ford blocks and main clearance. Just wondering if Daniel has ever heard of this.
Ed Smith is the gentleman that mentioned this.
Hi-po or not pound for pound a 289 sbf can get it.
@@bd5058 My lawn mower has larger ports than a SBF lol
I hate to tell ya this isn't a HiPo. maybe an A code 289 4V
Yeah, I think we have established that clearly
@@powellmachineinc Some not all K code Mustangs had the vin# on the right side of the block towards the front. Most Shelby GT 350's did.....Your videos are priceless
Why don’t they just use 351w heads if the customer is looking for more flow?
It doesn't work that way
@@powellmachineinc not that I’m doubting but please explain in an other episode. I’m figuring since more CI would mean more flow needed. I’m trying to learn
Std eqrly 351W is 1.84 so thats doable
I get that it hardly makes any difference ,but I guess im not following....how can timing chain get tighter removing any material from the block?...
It would make it looser and you'd have to buy a ''tighter chain''.
But if you don't let a hack hone your block, it's not an issue.
cousin saying the 68 302 Montego MX had some differences than a regular 302 , wonder if they were a bigger valve or go up to a 351 W head
That would murder the compression
Exactly!@@powellmachineinc
In the day racers put the 69-70 W head on 289 and got power... But chambers went from 53.5 to 60+ and hurt compression... Even with the power gain.
Ports went from @127 to 144 cc
We tried to mill the heads 020 and use a 027 gasket to recover compression.
Pistons down about 012 average +27 gave us 42 quench.
That,s 351w heads.
No
Hipo heads have cast in valve pockets and pushrod guides along with screw in rocker studs. They are not worth spending money on unless it's a numbers matching mustang. E7te heads are better and they are everywhere for cheap.
Your very repetitive with the line honing on all your blocks, know pretty much how much stock will come off each time with 25-30 strokes, that comes with experience for sure. And yeah that crank bore was twisted up, and you did a great recovery.
@@siliconvalleyengineer5875 ty, we appreciate that 🙏
use
Thank you for your knowledge and videos USA 🇺🇸 TRUMP USA 🇺🇸 TRUMP USA
Very welcome
I dont Like the Ford engines 😂, but your job like always , top notch, the a,b,c of how to prep a engine block ,etc .
Cheers 🍻.