Mr. Powell would have made a great vocational education teacher. Thankfully, through Y tube he is doing just that. I appreciate the tech data which is what I get here. 2 thumbs up.
Man you definitely got a mess on your hands. I'm also confident that you will get it all fixed up the right way...$$$ Best of luck on that one. I will be following the channel. High Fives
Great information because my brother in law is going to be getting a 427 FE that has never been apart so i'll tell him to keep as stock as possible so it will seal. It's going to be sent to a machine shop and gone through but i hope all it will need is a stock style rebuild and probably a piston change to something street friendly for his '33 Coupe. 454 Chevy coming out and going all Ford which will make it a sweet ride. All steel body with full fenders. She is already sweet!
Played with FE as race motors (roundy round on dirt) since back in the 60's. You touched on most of the issues. Well said. Waiting to see what you do with the oiling system ... Hope to see an AMC being built for racing in your shop. Say a 290 in Rambler American for a SEGA Gasser ... 😁
Thank you for the additional Ford content, Daniel. F.E.s served many of the car-buying public well in the 1960s. Yes, they had their issues but nonetheless did very well on racetracks especially when built and tuned by savvy racers. (NHRA, NASCAR, Lemans, etc.) Only when stressed beyond their design limitations did they dissapoint. Of course, the same can be said of any engine undergoing forces beyond its original intent. F.E. 427 SOHCs did well on gasoline. On Nitromethane, their 6000rpm blocks topped by 8000rpm cylinder heads caused issues of reliability. B.T.W. Chryslers Big-block architecture of the era was designed much like the F.E.s that came before them. Homage? Admittedly. the Chrysler castings were heavier. Keep up the excellent word and info, Daniel!
The cammer in bounty hunter and the snakes top fuel dragsters were turning 9000+ in the traps. If you knew what you were doing they didn’t leak oil. All engines are different and have different assembly procedures. My 428s never leaked oil but I have fixed a few for others that did.
I've had the fe in my arsenal for many years, love em but they need special attention for successful operation. Today if you want a better shot at a build with factory iron I've found if you look for the the mirror image 105 block you'll have aa better iron to work with. Jmho and experience.
Big fan of the FE power plant, did a 390fe as a drag motor in the late 90's it was a hoot and a half, not the fastest thing out there, but damn was it fun.
Yeah, I had a stock 1964 352 that was .089" in a couple of spots at stock bore and it had bad core shift on top of it. Wound up with another block that was standard bore 390, that block was much thicker all around and if it ever went to .060" overbore it'd still be plenty thick. Gotta check em all, if I bored that 352 .050" and made a standard bore 390 out of it I'm sure it would have popped a cylinder wall. Surprising it ran for 158,000 miles like that.
I have built a few 428CJs for myself but a friend had one that was put together by an automotive machine shop that had extremely low oil pressure and almost none warm. After a good oil system check I found the galley plug behind the distributor was missing. It was just a mistake but a costly one.
Its amazing how many blocks and heads you've had people bring to you that have been to other shops and are so bad. Makes me wonder what would have happened if the customer actually put the thing together.
I use torque plates on every block I hone regardless of performance level. So I have been able to see on every block how much measurable distortion they can create. Some obviously more than others. Out of the engines typical to my shop, the FE blocks move the most by far.
I'll hit an aggressively knurled rear seal surface with a fairly fresh polishing belt to knock down the knurl a touch/round off the sharp edges. Some of those feel pretty sharp running your finger over it, I can't imagine a rubber seal liking that surface.
On the piston clearence.Line to Line coatings have a abradable skirt coating that can be applyed thicker to take up some clearence.but like you say the bore is off and compression to high for street use anyways.
All do respect on them F.E Engines.....you being a fair/square dude....but Loved outrunning them 390 guys with my 396/360 66 engine in a 68 malibu being a bare bones rebuild back over 30 year ago...in there Mustang,s....whole lot lighter....the exhaust side sucks with no room for hedders.....Sad...the 351 cleveland is a ford mans engine......but poor ol Ford man...If you go up and compare 289/512 casting 427/454 block compared to that 428...God bless...you are showing the truth.My ol block is a 961 casting and want my ol machist told me years ago could go 125 over to a 427 where it is a thick bore block..like the the early 283 blocks...she aint no powerhouse....but i can bust its ass anytime I want in my 68 4-speed/12 chevelle and it likes it and the oil pressure/power is the same....Kudos to them FE DUDES.
FE's were spacificly made as thin wall blocks. They are about the lightest of all big blocks. Chevy big blocks were not thin wall castings. They can be bored .100 over size in many cases. They 429 & 460 blocks were much thicker & heavier than the FEs. Most 460s can go .080 over & some more than that! But your 427 chevy when bored .100 oversize is still smaller than a stock 429 or 460 piston by .010. And they can go another .080 yet at that point! But they are massive & heavy blocks!
I will never forget a 400 mopar that came through the shop. one side was .005 out (normal) the other side was .025 out front to back and .015 taper to the outside. It had run in a cordoba for 75k but always had an intake oil leak that never could be curred
Daniel, what kind of vehicle is it going in? You're right about the camshaft and bleeding off compression with a late intake closing, as usual. If the car is lightweight, under 3,500lbs, running a 3.90 or lower gear, and a loose converter(3500 stall or higher) 11.6 can run on 93. 20° initial wouldn't be a problem either, but they should consider allowing the Sniper to control the timing. The 482ci will have torque down low. The 482 you cut a cam for is 12:1, static and cold, and will run on 93. That's with a 0.036" head gasket and zero deck. I like to keep the cranking pressure below 200psi to work with pump gas. Personally, I dislike the dished MAHLE alternative. The quench is nearly gone and renders the combustion chamber useless. I've found that makes for a lazy engine when compared to a piston that has a dish that mirrors the combustion chamber, but then you're looking at a custom piston program. Good video! Way to shake things up!
I've had 2 sets of those heads that every intake I put on them was too narrow . needed a gasket at least 3/16 thick . And those intakes fit 4 other core engines with stock heads .
Your videos are so good. Everything you describe or explain makes so much sense it makes it easier for an amateur (like me) to realize what to look for and when going to professionals (like yourself) pays . Thanks please keep posting all this great content. 👍
I really appreciate your attention to detail and knowledge. If a Pontiac v8 comes through the door please keep us in mind. Thank you and keep up the good work
Brother....really admire your content being from the south... worked in machine shop early 90,s and was latter on a mechanic but always around Hotrod engines...You are very good and honest and from the south...most think only them Yankees know machine work and right way on engines....but buddy you are very talented and glad you a good ol south carolina boy.
I was the parts guy for Hawk Marine Power, the supplier of high performance engines to Cigarette Racing Team back in the early 1990's! I will tell you that not a whole lot has changed, let me qualify that remark! The engine management systems is miles ahead, the machining of parts is miles ahead and power production is miles ahead! That being said, all the same rules apply to making horsepower! When I see your shop I see the same old stuff! The potential to make crazy horsepower numbers now would have exploded my head back then. If you told me that there was a 500 inch small block I would have told you to bump your head on a brick! I think it was 1992 when we partnered with Sonny Bryant and made an all aluminum 634 inch motor that made 1000 to 1100 hp naturally aspirated! We mostly used the Chevy tall deck blocks to make 588 inch naturally aspirated motors that made 750 hp and 572 inch blocks with 10-71 Mooneyham Blowers to make 1100-1300 depending on pulleys and fuel. If you had told me that a Honda 4 cylinder with a turbo could easily make over 1000 hp with cheap parts I'd call you crazy. Look, the basics are still the basics and I love hearing them come from your mouth! You have a great channel going and I rarely miss a video! You format is perfect and enjoyable...keep it up! I have a 1973 Ford Mustang convertible with a 351 Cleveland Ram Air and a 4 speed! The engine has been rebuilt with good parts and a Comp Cam (XF262H-10) and a Holley Sniper with the billet distributor and Sniper electronic ignition. 355hp 411tq! I am a 1965 GTO Hardtop coupe with a Muncie M22 Rock Crusher guy! Not a Ford guy!
I keep watching and learn something every time and enjoy it because it's explained clearly.. Thanks. Motor trend needs to give you a slot and run some of your videos .
@powellmachineinc3179 if you've watched at least one episode of Roadkill , which I do like or a couple I don't really care for, I'd much rather learn about something that's a hell of a lot more relevant to everybody than building 4 wheel drive trucks , for example. You building a flat head, old straight 6, small block and so on , up to the newer stuff would be of interest to a bunch of folks. Motertrend needs new content, and i'm tired of watching re-runs. I'm sending Motor Trend an email. I encourage anyone who reads this to do the same.
You can do the bore like you wont to but its going to be thin. It was common to bore a cylinder away from the thin parts . Rope seals need that rough finish or they burn up; 11.4i is not to bad if your going to drag the motor.
Good god this is a master class on explaining how to put together a bunch of poorly machined mismatched parts. Would it not be better for the customer to tell you what he wants and you procure the correct parts in the first place?
We just did an FE, but had some issues on the dyno, so now it’s being disassembled and inspected. Tomorrow we will drop the pistons/rods and put the crank and cam out.
Unless you have a bunch of NOS 428 FE parts your best bet is just a good 390 block and a 445 stroker kit,, put that together with a torque cam and low 9's compression and you'll be at 400 smooth horsepower on pump gas..
Like I do Andrew when I don't mind!!!! ROFLMFAO!!!!!!! You kill me!!!!! That's funny!!!!. That block is not too far from being ruined. Ray Charles was showing Stevie Wonder how to bore a block ROFLMFAO!!!!!
If you have a BHJ plate you might find more the .010 on the deck. On 429/460 blocks have seen .025 diffrence using BHJ plate on my storm-valcan block master
The reason I like your channel is I in my opinion, you will only fix or machine a part the correct why or the customer can take it somewhere else because you wouldn't put you name on the job unless it is right. Thank you
Round two for a redo WOW, few more dollars need to be spent for a correction. I believe the owner would probably be a bit frustrated. Looks like you will always have work that will keep you busy into the future.
Great content. Great channel. Great tech. Ya’ll southerners have no idea how lucky you are to have a shop like this. Yes the FE is a bastard but goddamn its good!!! Thanks for doing what ya do!!! 🇺🇸🇨🇦
They taught us back in the day some used a 1 angle difference on the valves . Might have worked on heads with no inserts Noe fords stock peanut butter heads it wouldn’t make much difference.
i call that the its an old engine bore job the iron ring will whittle them selves in place .but that guy must no have seen that piston because that good piston will use the modern low tension rings lol but any how must have been at the Briggs and scapum machine shop
So, not trying to be contrary, but if you bore and hone with a torque plate, and I perfectly understand this is best practice, then why don't you have to check cylinder roundness, taper and diameter with a torque plate installed? Will not the relief in stress from removing the plate exhibit cylinder error?
@@powellmachineinc Thank you for responding. I just watched your follow up video on torque plate use, very interesting and informative. I should have viewed it prior to this question.
Why do people get their hearts set on aftermarket steel cranks, on mild builds anyway? lol The stock crank is plenty strong for most builds. That goes for FE, SBF, all of them.
@powellmachineinc3179 awesome I'm gonna assume it's good then if you've been using it 15 years. I just got mine will try it out when I get my block from machine shop. Will be looking forward to your other videos for this build
.0170 390 c.i.d, cylinder wall thickness. How could, the cylinder not distort? Just, look at .100 on a spark plug gapper. That's, almost nothing. Always, loved the 390. Was not, aware of that. Seen, some really stout running 390's, in my day. Had, a couple.
Why in the world would they knurl the crank like that, it’s not 1903 lol. Most seals already has the oil flow pattern molded into it, to direct oil away as it spins. That’s crazy.
It wasn’t too long after Vic Edelbrock passed away that the Edelbrock company doubled prices on nearly every cylinder head and intake manifold. SBF Performer heads went from about $1200 a pair to over $1000 EACH! Their heads are nowhere near as good as AFR which are about the same price and are 100 percent CNC ported. As cast Trick Flow heads can be had for under $1500 if you shop around. That’s why I don’t understand why people keep wasting their money on Edelbrock.
You brought up Van Norman. I never liked using that machine. The service was never to my liking. i mean you can just hear that the cutters were never the same height..
Hell yeah! More Fords in the shop. It's awesome you aren't stuck on LS engines.
You got that right!
Daniel, builds LS engines, while in R.E.M. sleep. No doubt, an LS guru! But, knowledgeable about all makes!🤝
The LS engine was originally a Ford engine design... GM kind of borrowed it
I'm a Buick 455 guy. He is right about the Pistons being way too down in the hole. To me that's a good reason to use a longer rod
Great to see a FE build
Nice video am a fe guy can’t wait to see the next video
Coming
Unscrewing someone else's pooch can drive you nuts , I empathise and sympathise.
Absolutely 💯
Mr. Powell would have made a great vocational education teacher. Thankfully, through Y tube he is doing just that. I appreciate the tech data which is what I get here. 2 thumbs up.
Wow, thank you!
My thoughts exactly. Start a machinist class and you would be able to have all the help you need
We used to say that the parts that were that far out of tolerance were probably made on a Friday 😅
Thank God for guys like you that are still around.
Those bores look like 5 different apprentices took a shot, and the journeyman doing the supervision didn't know his job either!
Yup
Watching your videos is always a master class in automotive technology. Thank you, sir. Following this build.
I really appreciate that!!
Fe guy here, can’t find next episode. Definitely want to see more on the Fe.
I learned a ton in this video! Thank you for doing this!
Glad it was helpful!
Man you definitely got a mess on your hands. I'm also confident that you will get it all fixed up the right way...$$$ Best of luck on that one. I will be following the channel. High Fives
I hope so too!
That engine series is also known as "the oil leak special". I've never seen one that didn't leak oil somewhere.
Great information because my brother in law is going to be getting a 427 FE that has never been apart so i'll tell him to keep as stock as possible so it will seal. It's going to be sent to a machine shop and gone through but i hope all it will need is a stock style rebuild and probably a piston change to something street friendly for his '33 Coupe. 454 Chevy coming out and going all Ford which will make it a sweet ride. All steel body with full fenders. She is already sweet!
Maybe in a future episode, you could discuss which aftermarket heads you recommend people buy.
Played with FE as race motors (roundy round on dirt) since back in the 60's. You touched on most of the issues. Well said. Waiting to see what you do with the oiling system ...
Hope to see an AMC being built for racing in your shop. Say a 290 in Rambler American for a SEGA Gasser ... 😁
Personally, love the A.M.C's.
I love all your special tools. I bet you do too.
Definitely I'm a equipment crack head
Thank you for the additional Ford content, Daniel. F.E.s served many of the car-buying public well in the 1960s. Yes, they had their issues but nonetheless did very well on racetracks especially when built and tuned by savvy racers. (NHRA, NASCAR, Lemans, etc.) Only when stressed beyond their design limitations did they dissapoint. Of course, the same can be said of any engine undergoing forces beyond its original intent. F.E. 427 SOHCs did well on gasoline. On Nitromethane, their 6000rpm blocks topped by 8000rpm cylinder heads caused issues of reliability. B.T.W. Chryslers Big-block architecture of the era was designed much like the F.E.s that came before them. Homage? Admittedly. the Chrysler castings were heavier. Keep up the excellent word and info, Daniel!
Yw
The cammer in bounty hunter and the snakes top fuel dragsters were turning 9000+ in the traps. If you knew what you were doing they didn’t leak oil. All engines are different and have different assembly procedures. My 428s never leaked oil but I have fixed a few for others that did.
I've had the fe in my arsenal for many years, love em but they need special attention for successful operation. Today if you want a better shot at a build with factory iron I've found if you look for the the mirror image 105 block you'll have aa better iron to work with. Jmho and experience.
Big fan of the FE power plant, did a 390fe as a drag motor in the late 90's it was a hoot and a half, not the fastest thing out there, but damn was it fun.
Yeah, I had a stock 1964 352 that was .089" in a couple of spots at stock bore and it had bad core shift on top of it. Wound up with another block that was standard bore 390, that block was much thicker all around and if it ever went to .060" overbore it'd still be plenty thick. Gotta check em all, if I bored that 352 .050" and made a standard bore 390 out of it I'm sure it would have popped a cylinder wall. Surprising it ran for 158,000 miles like that.
I have built a few 428CJs for myself but a friend had one that was put together by an automotive machine shop that had extremely low oil pressure and almost none warm. After a good oil system check I found the galley plug behind the distributor was missing. It was just a mistake but a costly one.
Its amazing how many blocks and heads you've had people bring to you that have been to other shops and are so bad. Makes me wonder what would have happened if the customer actually put the thing together.
Wouldn't have lived very long at all
I use torque plates on every block I hone regardless of performance level. So I have been able to see on every block how much measurable distortion they can create. Some obviously more than others.
Out of the engines typical to my shop, the FE blocks move the most by far.
I'll hit an aggressively knurled rear seal surface with a fairly fresh polishing belt to knock down the knurl a touch/round off the sharp edges. Some of those feel pretty sharp running your finger over it, I can't imagine a rubber seal liking that surface.
On the piston clearence.Line to Line coatings have a abradable skirt coating that can be applyed thicker to take up some clearence.but like you say the bore is off and compression to high for street use anyways.
Yep
All do respect on them F.E Engines.....you being a fair/square dude....but Loved outrunning them 390 guys with my 396/360 66 engine in a 68 malibu being a bare bones rebuild back over 30 year ago...in there Mustang,s....whole lot lighter....the exhaust side sucks with no room for hedders.....Sad...the 351 cleveland is a ford mans engine......but poor ol Ford man...If you go up and compare 289/512 casting 427/454 block compared to that 428...God bless...you are showing the truth.My ol block is a 961 casting and want my ol machist told me years ago could go 125 over to a 427 where it is a thick bore block..like the the early 283 blocks...she aint no powerhouse....but i can bust its ass anytime I want in my 68 4-speed/12 chevelle and it likes it and the oil pressure/power is the same....Kudos to them FE DUDES.
FE's were spacificly made as thin wall blocks. They are about the lightest of all big blocks. Chevy big blocks were not thin wall castings. They can be bored .100 over size in many cases. They 429 & 460 blocks were much thicker & heavier than the FEs. Most 460s can go .080 over & some more than that! But your 427 chevy when bored .100 oversize is still smaller than a stock 429 or 460 piston by .010. And they can go another .080 yet at that point! But they are massive & heavy blocks!
were fixin pull and fully re seal a good ol 390 ferd! been many years since we had one apart.
I will never forget a 400 mopar that came through the shop. one side was .005 out (normal) the other side was .025 out front to back and .015 taper to the outside. It had run in a cordoba for 75k but always had an intake oil leak that never could be curred
Yep, definitely
Can’t wait, good stuff
Definitely
Daniel, what kind of vehicle is it going in?
You're right about the camshaft and bleeding off compression with a late intake closing, as usual. If the car is lightweight, under 3,500lbs, running a 3.90 or lower gear, and a loose converter(3500 stall or higher) 11.6 can run on 93. 20° initial wouldn't be a problem either, but they should consider allowing the Sniper to control the timing. The 482ci will have torque down low.
The 482 you cut a cam for is 12:1, static and cold, and will run on 93. That's with a 0.036" head gasket and zero deck. I like to keep the cranking pressure below 200psi to work with pump gas.
Personally, I dislike the dished MAHLE alternative. The quench is nearly gone and renders the combustion chamber useless. I've found that makes for a lazy engine when compared to a piston that has a dish that mirrors the combustion chamber, but then you're looking at a custom piston program.
Good video! Way to shake things up!
I've had 2 sets of those heads that every intake I put on them was too narrow . needed a gasket at least 3/16 thick . And those intakes fit 4 other core engines with stock heads .
No doubt
Your videos are so good. Everything you describe or explain makes so much sense it makes it easier for an amateur (like me) to realize what to look for and when going to professionals (like yourself) pays . Thanks please keep posting all this great content. 👍
Glad you like them!
I wish we could hear these engines fire up when you are done with them!
I really appreciate your attention to detail and knowledge. If a Pontiac v8 comes through the door please keep us in mind. Thank you and keep up the good work
We have a 326 poncho in line
Brother....really admire your content being from the south... worked in machine shop early 90,s and was latter on a mechanic but always around Hotrod engines...You are very good and honest and from the south...most think only them Yankees know machine work and right way on engines....but buddy you are very talented and glad you a good ol south carolina boy.
Awesome entertainment like always 😅
Glad you enjoyed
I was the parts guy for Hawk Marine Power, the supplier of high performance engines to Cigarette Racing Team back in the early 1990's! I will tell you that not a whole lot has changed, let me qualify that remark! The engine management systems is miles ahead, the machining of parts is miles ahead and power production is miles ahead! That being said, all the same rules apply to making horsepower! When I see your shop I see the same old stuff! The potential to make crazy horsepower numbers now would have exploded my head back then. If you told me that there was a 500 inch small block I would have told you to bump your head on a brick! I think it was 1992 when we partnered with Sonny Bryant and made an all aluminum 634 inch motor that made 1000 to 1100 hp naturally aspirated! We mostly used the Chevy tall deck blocks to make 588 inch naturally aspirated motors that made 750 hp and 572 inch blocks with 10-71 Mooneyham Blowers to make 1100-1300 depending on pulleys and fuel. If you had told me that a Honda 4 cylinder with a turbo could easily make over 1000 hp with cheap parts I'd call you crazy. Look, the basics are still the basics and I love hearing them come from your mouth! You have a great channel going and I rarely miss a video! You format is perfect and enjoyable...keep it up!
I have a 1973 Ford Mustang convertible with a 351 Cleveland Ram Air and a 4 speed! The engine has been rebuilt with good parts and a Comp Cam (XF262H-10) and a Holley Sniper with the billet distributor and Sniper electronic ignition. 355hp 411tq!
I am a 1965 GTO Hardtop coupe with a Muncie M22 Rock Crusher guy! Not a Ford guy!
I keep watching and learn something every time and enjoy it because it's explained clearly..
Thanks.
Motor trend needs to give you a slot and run some of your videos .
Thanks for watching!, I doubt we are motortrend matl!
@powellmachineinc3179 if you've watched at least one episode of Roadkill , which I do like or a couple I don't really care for, I'd much rather learn about something that's a hell of a lot more relevant to everybody than building 4 wheel drive trucks , for example. You building a flat head, old straight 6, small block and so on , up to the newer stuff would be of interest to a bunch of folks. Motertrend needs new content, and i'm tired of watching re-runs. I'm sending Motor Trend an email. I encourage anyone who reads this to do the same.
You can do the bore like you wont to but its going
to be thin. It was common to bore a cylinder away from the thin parts . Rope seals need that rough finish or they burn up; 11.4i is not to bad if your going to drag the motor.
I had a 66 428 pi solid lifter with 11 to 1 compression . The run on was unbelievable. good thing it had a 4-speed.
Good god this is a master class on explaining how to put together a bunch of poorly machined mismatched parts. Would it not be better for the customer to tell you what he wants and you procure the correct parts in the first place?
That's how it happens normally but this is a salvage project
Me being an old FE guy your hitting all the right point ! Been 9.90's with my '67 mustang GTA 427 car
Good stuff
We just did an FE, but had some issues on the dyno, so now it’s being disassembled and inspected. Tomorrow we will drop the pistons/rods and put the crank and cam out.
That is a handful of little fixes to tend to.
Absolutely
Wow, looking good, got it going on, thanks for the video.
Well.... we try
The amount of info you drop and what I learn each video is insane. And I love ford’s, and had a 428, I hate FE’s. Everything about them is a pain.
Definitely
Robert Pond makes a good cast iron block. Not too pricey either.
My training 30 years ago said 45 valve 46 seat if I remember right
Unless you have a bunch of NOS 428 FE parts your best bet is just a good 390 block and a 445 stroker kit,, put that together with a torque cam and low 9's compression and you'll be at 400 smooth horsepower on pump gas..
I couldn't live with myself coming out less than one hp per cubic inch, and in the "9's" for compression. 😬
@@arturozarate1752 Well a 445 FE can do 500hp fairly easily but dude apparently wants a torquey pump gas cruiser...
Since you can get custom pistons logically you could go 4.165" since that's a common ring size.
I doubt it will clean up there, but definitely
Wow! That is a wreck.
Like I do Andrew when I don't mind!!!! ROFLMFAO!!!!!!! You kill me!!!!! That's funny!!!!. That block is not too far from being ruined. Ray Charles was showing Stevie Wonder how to bore a block ROFLMFAO!!!!!
Lol
Would the customer consider sleeving the block which would allow you to rebore to get straight bores.
Would cost 3 times as much as just getting the correct pistons, plus either way we gotta have pistons so sleeve Would make zero sense
If you have a BHJ plate you might find more the .010 on the deck. On 429/460 blocks have seen .025 diffrence using BHJ plate on my storm-valcan block master
I have the blo-tru
Did a 428 last year... fun, fun,fun....lol.
I may be wrong but I think the rear main seal roughness was for rope seal
Definitely, but it's still to coarse
A good manual machinist can make a great engine builder
I agree
The reason I like your channel is I in my opinion, you will only fix or machine a part the correct why or the customer can take it somewhere else because you wouldn't put you name on the job unless it is right. Thank you
Absolutely!, ty 💯
Round two for a redo WOW, few more dollars need to be spent for a correction. I believe the owner would probably be a bit frustrated. Looks like you will always have work that will keep you busy into the future.
Making me excited on my mod motor!
Great content. Great channel. Great tech. Ya’ll southerners have no idea how lucky you are to have a shop like this. Yes the FE is a bastard but goddamn its good!!! Thanks for doing what ya do!!! 🇺🇸🇨🇦
We really appreciate that
They taught us back in the day some used a 1 angle difference on the valves .
Might have worked on heads with no inserts
Noe fords stock peanut butter heads it wouldn’t make much difference.
The cheeks on those crank throws look a little thin, good ole Eagle.
i call that the its an old engine bore job the iron ring will whittle them selves in place .but that guy must no have seen that piston because that good piston will use the modern low tension rings lol but any how must have been at the Briggs and scapum machine shop
Do you have a video on how to measure deck height and taper?
In the surfacer I do
Can’t just slap it around like I do Andrew when he don’t mind 😂😂😂😂
Lol
So, not trying to be contrary, but if you bore and hone with a torque plate, and I perfectly understand this is best practice, then why don't you have to check cylinder roundness, taper and diameter with a torque plate installed? Will not the relief in stress from removing the plate exhibit cylinder error?
Yes, I never said anything contrary
@@powellmachineinc Thank you for responding. I just watched your follow up video on torque plate use, very interesting and informative. I should have viewed it prior to this question.
Why do people get their hearts set on aftermarket steel cranks, on mild builds anyway? lol The stock crank is plenty strong for most builds. That goes for FE, SBF, all of them.
Economics, a cast steel crank is cheap and many times the factory crank is not repairable
Good video. Doing my first fe build . What sonic tester is that? Looks like the deyer i have.
@@jrealist1 I don't remember, I've had it prob 15 years
@powellmachineinc3179 awesome I'm gonna assume it's good then if you've been using it 15 years. I just got mine will try it out when I get my block from machine shop. Will be looking forward to your other videos for this build
Whats the customer going to use this boat anchor for?
Old f100
Are there any follow up videos to this.
Would sleeve it help with cyl out around an thickness
Yes, but... it creates several more problems
Makes me wonder how any of the junk I screwed together 40 years ago ever lived.
sloppy factory tolerances have kept us going forever lol. all my old rebuilds burn a little oil.
Working vs living is a different thing, plus stocker parts vs performance parts
Did this build stall out? 6 months later no other videos. Just curious.
@@arturozarate1752 were just that far behind..... more episodes are coming
@powellmachineinc man brother that's a good thing though. I'm always tuned in. Take care.
What’s your thoughts on flotech heads
Can you sonic test a 4.8/5.3 iron block how thick are the cylinders
Having a valve hang out that far u get spark knock cause the valve is too hot.
It's not ideal for sure
Do you think if you threw some boost at it, that would fix it. Lol yes I'm kidding from your other video
Lol
What part of the country are you located?
The block looks like they bored it bolted to an engine stand with a qwikway.
You seem to be a bit frustrated. HAHAHAAHAH What brand of sonic checker would you recommend?
I have a brand new set of J&E forged pistons for a 428
.0170 390 c.i.d, cylinder wall thickness. How could, the cylinder not distort? Just, look at .100 on a spark plug gapper. That's, almost nothing. Always, loved the 390. Was not, aware of that. Seen, some really stout running 390's, in my day. Had, a couple.
Right on
I wish I could be an automotive engineer
Why in the world would they knurl the crank like that, it’s not 1903 lol. Most seals already has the oil flow pattern molded into it, to direct oil away as it spins. That’s crazy.
Yep, idk, why, but most ford's are that way
25:48 If, you want this junk, to live?😄 I, understand what you're saying, but still!😄
Lol
Offer to buy his pistons so you can punch it out to 0.040 over
I'm not buying anything, the customer will have to pay for the new pistons if he wants it fixed at my shop
It wasn’t too long after Vic Edelbrock passed away that the Edelbrock company doubled prices on nearly every cylinder head and intake manifold. SBF Performer heads went from about $1200 a pair to over $1000 EACH! Their heads are nowhere near as good as AFR which are about the same price and are 100 percent CNC ported. As cast Trick Flow heads can be had for under $1500 if you shop around. That’s why I don’t understand why people keep wasting their money on Edelbrock.
The trick flow fe head is really good
What's a good time of day to call you when you aren't running around like a chicken with his head cut off tomorrow?
Lol, never, my wife takes all the calls and just conveys the answers, I can't get anything done otherwise.
@powellmachineinc3179 cool. Thanx brother. I figured as much lol.
Very good videos. Learn alot from you. Thanks
Glad to hear it!
Norbert Wegner
You brought up Van Norman. I never liked using that machine. The service was never to my liking. i mean you can just hear that the cutters were never the same height..
Mine were, because I actually set up every cutter.
In the Congo we dont have 428's
Junk. Truest words ever stated in a YT video . Hand loose , Hang Tight Just hang on i building a fire in this thing
Lol
It’s hard to go behind someone else’s work. I hate it for you.
Absolutely
This is what happens when people want to go cheap.
Nope, customer didn't care what it cost