The Japanese in the 90s and early 2000s were building absolutely insane stuff. I've still got a Pioneer Kuro Elite plasma TV that runs like a clock (while heating the entire house). I bet being in Tokyo in 1990 was a trip.
It's an odd place. I was living there in 2000 and normal everyday life was mundane and usually quite old tech. And then you'd have these weird one off electric devices that were decades ahead of anyone else. My cellphone from Japan didn't have an American equivalent for at least ten years. But then you have to go use a squat toilet and the glamor disappears.
Been soldering for 15 years and do so professionally now as a circuit repair technician. I find the twist method for SMD electrolytic capacitor removal to be the safest and most reliable. I've tested all the methods you showed in the video over the years and the twist method is the only one I've had zero issues with; all the rest I've pulled pads, blown up capacitors, or just had a miserable time with doing. As long as you apply a very slight downward pressure while doing a slight twisting motion with the pliers and never pull up until the capacitor's legs are broken, you're golden. I've had a 100% success rate with it, no matter the state of the pads, corroded from field-use or otherwise. At the end of the day, the best method is the one you're most comfortable with and I can't fault anyone for that, but I'd recommend revisiting the twist method. You'll be pleasantly surprised. Thank you for the video, Tito!
This has been my experience too, even on boards that are particularly notorious for badly attached pads. Since the plastic under the cap is the first point of contact, all of the twisting force is applied to the plastic, the only thing that you need to be mindful of is like you said. I will say I don't apply any downward pressure either though; I just twist it in place without applying any directional forces
@@DrunkenMonk1 Only reason I apply the slight downward pressure, barely more than resting, really, is to ensure that I'm not pulling up. You're correct that it works without, but I do it as a precaution.
I love stuff like this. What a cool collector’s item. Mass respect to console 5 for selling packs for such an obscure device. I’m glad companies like that exist.
Found a US LaserActive with the TurboGrafx PAC about 2 months ago at a FleaMarket in South Texas and snagged it for $40. Spent about 3 or 4 weeks recapping the LaserActive and a friend recapped the N10 for me. Lots of time and nerve racking troubleshooting and it’s back to life! Also got Zaxours RGB/SV mod installed. Tito’s videos were very helpful for reference while doing this as well!
I found a LaserActive for $20 at a thrift store years ago, just thinking "woah! LaserDisc player!" and gifted it to my brother...only to later find out what it actually was. We've gone back multiple times since then hoping to find any of the modules, but have never had any luck. Love to see this!
The fact that Pioneer thought of a modular system like this back in '93 is crazy to me. The closest modern equivalent to this we got is the PolyMega, and that thing is emulated, so the fact that there was a system that could interface with two separate game consoles, that were competing at the time, via modules is insane, to be honest.
It was the boom economy of the 90s. People had a lot of cash to blow and there was a high end market for items like this. Their golden times weren't concentrated in a few billionaires, so mid level managers could afford this kind of device.
I designed a concept similar to this and the PolyMega when I was in high school between 2000-2004, but it took the modern systems at the time being the Xbox, PlayStation 2 and GameCube. Mine was called the Multi-PLAT integrated platform system and it looked more akin to a PolyMega. I wish when I was a teen I knew about the Pioneer system.
Oh, Tito, another suggestion: you consider advising people to take a picture of the board first, and adding a sticker that says "caps replaced 2024 aug 08" at the end of the repair.
Never had the opportunity to get my hands on the PC Engine PAC- neat to finally see inside of it! I've now repaired 3 Genesis PAC units and am on my 4th CLD-A100 repair. Those PAC units can be a *menace* to work on. If they weren't preventatively recapped, they will have suffered major damage from cap leaks. I had to rebuild just about every pad on a sub board in one of them. Stripped the board and ran it through the dishwasher to get the electrolytic fluid out of all those vias. The LA unit I'm in the of repairing is actually my personal unit. Was hoping recapping the power supply and replacing the ICPs would do the job, but no such luck 😅 In the middle of a full recap and solder joint rework... man, that thing has a *lot* of caps! Thanks for another great video!
I appreciate the in depth guide to recapping. While it's something I have done quite a lot now, I know new hobbyists will appreciate the guidance when the first try to do this.
This is a great video for taking notes about capacitors and sources for parts. I was born in 1975 and I remember this being discussed in the increasingly thicker electronic monthly magazine of the time. I could understand how parent would sit down and price it out with a teenagerwith the cost of something like this is but I can understand why somebody would choose to buy it because of all the cable management. Which is something that the retailers at The could’ve really talked about it as sales meeting.
I did the cut method for the smd caps on my SNES as I dont have a heat gun yet and it worked fine without any issues as it appears to cut the leads before they have a chance to apply any force on the pads. Just make sure you have really good cutters.
With his box... Damn, what a beauty! The second method looks the best to me in avoid stress to the pads, but a little pre-heating and flux could help with all the techniques to avoid that differents mechanic tensions cause eccessive stress and a disaster.
The techniques here are so clean! All the do's and don't you demonstrate are so helpful in general for electronics restoration. Thank you for mixing the education with the spotless work.
What a beautiful module, so well designed! It's probably a tech concept that was brought to market more than a mass consumer product. And your audio/video recording and lighting are very high quality as well!
Dude, the different methods is such a cool addition to the video. As someone learning, it is very helpful. I havent watched all your videos so maybe you have done it before. But its a game changer for me!
Right but, in the day, in the 90's your video choices for home video was VHS or LD, and LD gave a far better picture than VHS..... not even close in most cases...
No cap, I actually think the snipping method is the best method overall. Although each method has its uses. Like for the VA0-VA5 Sega Saturns, I caution against using hot air at all (not even a FRAM mod on the other side of the board), because of those heat sensitive PLL chips.
Man, I don't know about the others here, but it's therapeutical for me. It's a kind of cozy Lofi gamer content. I mean, I love this channel and I love these kind of tutorials. We're able to understand how refined the welding techniques are and how and for what each one is recommended.
I recapped my Pac-N1 last year. I would highly advise everyone to use flush cutters to remove the capacitors. Hot Air isn't a bad option either, but flush cutters would definitely help out with the caps that are glued down.
I've lifted MANY more pads trying to desolder SMD caps than by using the "twist" method. As others have said, you press down while doing a "twisty wiggle" of the play in the capacitor legs. Within a few seconds, the metal of the legs will fatigue and break, usually right at the edge of the solder. This typically leaves the base on the board, liiking much like your cut method... but without possibly releasing electrolyte.
Here's an idea: Grip the SMT cap with pliers, and then hit it with the hot tweezers with your other hand. That will allow you to remove the heat while still applying some (gentle) force upward.
Hey Tito. I just wanted to say in case you haven't seen it yet, I really love the music choices you have for your videos. It's really nice and relaxing especially on tough builds. Makes it also really nice to watch. Much love.
I believe that red chip glue softens with heat, so it's probably a matter of gradually heating everything up with hot air at a lower temp and then switching to a higher temp to melt the solder and get it off. It makes it a bit trickier since it will still require some force to pull it off, but you do want to make sure that resistance is coming from the glue and NOT the solder joints.
I couldnt care less for the obscure Pioneer rig, it's interesting but i doubt i'll have the chance to play with one in a lifetime, yet your videos are so cool and educational, it's a pleasure watch you fix, restore, repair and mod all this retro consoles while learning. Thank you Tito!
I love the aspect of repairing all the stuff, but there's definitely a lot more soldering techniques not mentioned here. I was inspired by Louis Rossmann and learned a lot on my own
I worked at Fry's, we had them and the literal sales plan was "watch the rich, shoes, car, etc.". Also the massive multi crt screen took an insane amount of work to fix.
Always excellent, thank you. FWVLIW: I was horrified when I first saw the 'twist method' to remove this kind of cap. But once tried it's my go-to method, no issues to report. A little tip - 'Ceramic' equivalents of 'Electrolytic' SMD caps are available - The largest size will usually bridge the pads fine, and will never leak.
The Twist method works really well. I did that method on a Mac Classic II I refurbished and a PowerBook 150 that I did the caps on the Screen for. The trick with that method is to ensure you are only doing horizontal twisting and not any vertical force. This causes the two prongs in the capacitor to rip out of the can and then the can slips off without putting any force on the pads on the board. Then simply unsolder the left over leads from the old capacitor. A Tip: Make sure to take a detailed picture of the board you are replacing the caps on. This way, you can check to make sure you put the caps back on in the right orientation. You can also use a sharpie to make a mark on the board indicating the polarity.
I should get one of these, I'm a huge nerd when it comes to old media formats and retro games so this just combines two of my favorite hobbies into one system lol
The SMT cap section was gold. Seriously dude, cut that section out and make a new video that is literally just this and give it the title how to replaced SMT caps, it’s such a valuable section and needs exposure
You don't even have to do any of those techniques to remove SMD caps - literally just put the hot iron on both pads at the same time by pushing the soldering iron directly against the two pad sides. The heat from the iron is enough to transfer through the aluminum casing to the pads, and the plastic is just gonna burn outta your way anyways. Just push that iron right next to it and it'll take right off. It's really not hard - just be gentle not to tear pads. And there is also a heat rework tool that you can use to easily lift them off, too, but you gotta mask off the areas that can't do heat (plastic parts mainly - typically using kapton tape).
I'm always moving from one place to another and sometimes living in cramped rooms, but I wish to keep being able to do this kind of electronics experiments. What should I prioritize when looking for a tool for doing surface mount soldering and desoldering and if I only have one tool, which type should I get?
@@gluttonousmaximus9048soldering iron! I use the pinecil v2 with fine tips, would work well for you too because it’s USB-C it takes basically no space because no base station. Will need a good USB-C brick though if you want to have fast heat up (I use a 96w Apple charger)
I was telling my wife that these existed a few days ago when we were making dinner. She stared at me and didn't say anything. Either she had no idea how to respond or genuinely wasn't interested.
Found one at a flea market 2 months ago and my wife couldn’t understand why I was so excited and practically peeing my pants when I saw it. Seller was asking $50 and my wife haggled it down to $40. I was ready to pay so much more! Lol
Replacing electrolytic capacitors with tantalum capacitors is often a better choice because tantalum capacitors are more reliable and less prone to future issues like acid leakage. Electrolytic capacitors can degrade over time, leading to leaks that can cause damage to the circuit and other components. Tantalum capacitors, on the other hand, are solid-state devices, meaning they don't contain liquid electrolytes, which significantly reduces the risk of leaks. Additionally, tantalum capacitors tend to have a longer lifespan and better stability, making them a more durable and safer option for long-term use in electronic circuits.
This is really awesome, I really like it but I don't think I'll ever be able to add a LaserActive with the PACs to my collection. Great video as always!
First time I watch one your videos. First I'm so interested about discovering such a great device wow! Then I am amazed about your skills in electronic. On top of that you seem to be very good at explaining things. Love that.Thank you.
ive never had an issue with twisting the smd caps off. the trick is to come in from above and press down while twisting slowly and allow the cap to break off instead of pulling up
Love discovering cool tech I'd never heard of through your channel. Also, thanks for the demo of different cap removal techniques- it's something you didn't explicitly need to do for this mod, but did it anyway because you care about the community and helping people learn. S-tier content creator stuff right there ❤
Hey Tito, awesome guide and video, and a really astonishing piece of hardware. The twisting method works better than you would think, because the little plastic under the cap keeps the contacts straight, with the drop of adhesive in this case here this is even enhanced, the force on the leads is longitudinal, where the pads have most retaining force. I recapped an amiga cd32 with no pad torn or even damaged. For heavy corroded pads I would try another method, but even the flush cutter method would put too much force on the pads. Try the twist method on some broken stuff.
when I first saw the ld rom disk in your hand I first thought you had little baby hands but now with a proper contrast and comparison in size to a normal disk I can conclude that you have normal hands and those roms are just holy hell sized Frisbees to this point.
Yep, I'm with you regarding not twisting off capacitors. Far too many Sony and Sega Products come into me for repair with damaged traces because of that method. Nice video by the way.
I wish I still owned a Turbografx-16. Back in the day when it was released, I remember thinking how futuristic and cool it was that the games were on Hucards. I was 8/9 years old at the time, so anything other than a floppy disk or a cartridge was rad. I actually didn't even know there was other game consoles that utilized Hucards until I watched this video. Heck, the Hucard in the thumbnail was the whole reason I clicked on it in the first place! 😁 Thanks for sharing your knowledge of these obscure devices.
Cutting method seems like the best from all i've seen, least amount of stress on the pads, tho it is a little messier. Also the reason why all these electrolytic caps have failed seems to be because they got heated up way too hot when they were originally installed, presumably via some kind of wave soldering system, or an oven, and the gasket inside was prematurely degraded. Otherwise they should not be leaking like that even 30 years after manufacturing, you can tell that all the through-hole capacitors of the era tend to be fine and only fail sporadically, meanwhile failed SMD electrolytics are a constant.
I'm a full proponent of the twist method! It's such a time saver and I've removed hundreds and hundreds of caps this way with no issues. This is including some nasty game gear boards. The key is to not lift at all, just keep twisting in one direction until the legs break then remove the plastic piece. If anything I apply a slight down force when doing this to better prevent lifting. I find the rocking method to be the absolute worst. That one has had the highest amount of lifted pads for me.
@@MrRobarino that's not what I was implying. The aesthetic has a modern appeal and if you were to put this next to modern day consoles it doesn't look out of place.
whenever you are working with aluminium capacitors, USE EYE PROTECTION, the cap liquid inside when heated can literally boil creating pressure, and exploding producing small shrapnel that goes directly to your eyes for some reason. USE EYE PROTECTION when handling it.
My way to go to remove caps like these is before soldering, I use a wide plier and give the caps a VERY gentle twist until I hear a cracking sound. That means the glue/welded plastic is broken off the board and I can resume desoldering the caps.
The grab and twist method actually really does work. If there's no obvious signs of damage to the pads and traces, it's exceptionally unlikely to result in a lifted pad. It absolutely seems - and looks and feels - like you will, but somehow they're a remarkably strong bond and I know plenty of folks who say they've never damaged a pad this way.
Back when these were on sale it was a common thing for someone who had little electronic knowledge, large amounts of disposable income and an unhealthy case of "keeping up with the Joneses", to go down to the local Circuit City and buy a whole entertainment system which included everything. A huge TV, surround sound system, laser disc players etc, and have it all professionally installed. Systems like this were a big upsell. The salesmen would say things like "You can change out your kids gaming console with this simple cartridge system". The idea of not having to call in the experts that installed your entertainment system to add a new game console to your system was pretty attractive to yuppies.
I miss the 80s and 90s.....good times....good times were had. I recall my first DVD player and the magic of 480p over component video out and audio through my first surround sound stereo with a subwoofer.
to remove the glued bases, use the heated tweezers and a pair of regular tweezers. the regular one goes under the base to pry the glue off while you hold the cap with the heated ones.
This system and the Neo Geo were gaming unobtanium. My young self fantasized of being able to afford, what was to me at least, the ultimate gaming machines. Alas, even in adulthood, I still must live vicariously through all the great gaming folks on YT.
Made me think of the JVC X'eye that I have cuz it was a combo Genesis/CD that retailed for $500, which was way more than the consoles separately. JVC was the chip supplier on the Genesis and said "You know what? Let's make our own and make it WAY more expensive." It's the most unique console I own
NO, JVC did NOT develop the sound card in the Genesis. The audio in a Sega Genesis is a Yamaha YM2612 for music plus a Z80 based Programmable Sound Generator (PSG) for Square Wave sounds, tones, and noise. The PSG was the same chip used in the Master System. JVC had nothing to do with it beside be a chip supplier. The partnership Sega with JVC did allow JVC to develop the WonderMega line, which is basically a Sega Genesis/Sega CD/Karaoke Machine which sold mostly in Japan (at a way higher price). JVC did try to sell the Wondermega in the USA as the JVC X'Eye (again at a higher price). Beyond that there is nothing particularly special about the Wondermega hardware.
Great, another amazing looking rare hardware that I can lust after for the rest of my natural life and never see in person... Thanks for showing it off. ❤
In all soldering/desoldering tutorials I saw american technicians using soldering suckers, that are so common in Brazil. They help a lot on clearing these kind of components. Why their use is not so widespread in North America? It is cheaper than using solder wick and desoldering guns.....
Solder suckers are great if you have access to the pins on the other side of the board. In this case they didn't go through, so the best easiest method was to use the "cut" method. And just cut the cap at the board and remove the rest afterwards.
I love your tutorials. It makes all the modding so much easier when someone like me, owns all of the consoles from PS1 to Wii and needs to check my PS1, PS2 and Gameboy Advanced SP very soon.
The snip method works well (much safer than the twist method), especially if you use tweezers (or a spudger in your case) to hold the capacitor down firmly as you snip. A leaky cap can make those pads or adjoining traces very delicate, and they'll lift and/or break while snipping if not careful.
I too have a Laser Active! But I only have the Sega PAC. I remember finding two more on clearance for $500 that included ALL the PACs!! I actually said, I already have one and opted to pass up the deal as I was not into Turbo Grafx!! Very big mistake!
I work at a goodwill store and we got one of those laserdisc players, fully functional donated in. Needless to say it sold for a lot on the online store
My SMD capacitor removal experience: Some PCB's have very fragile traces and lifting one side of the cap or cutting it can rip these. I don't have a tweezer iron, instead used 2 soldering irons: preheat the solder joints and add some solder then hit them each side simultaneously with a soldering iron in each hand. Sounds a bit weird but it works really well,
I have only seen one of these in real life. It was in a display case at the river falls mall in southern Indiana. I didn't think anybody ever bought one.
This is one of the very few items I would spend good money on, if I had good money. I love the Laserdisc media format, and love love love the module based game adapters for the LaserActive.
The Japanese in the 90s and early 2000s were building absolutely insane stuff. I've still got a Pioneer Kuro Elite plasma TV that runs like a clock (while heating the entire house). I bet being in Tokyo in 1990 was a trip.
Had to leave mine in storage, they consume an incredible amount of power.
My Kuro Elite says it was built in the USA, strangely enough…
It's an odd place. I was living there in 2000 and normal everyday life was mundane and usually quite old tech. And then you'd have these weird one off electric devices that were decades ahead of anyone else. My cellphone from Japan didn't have an American equivalent for at least ten years. But then you have to go use a squat toilet and the glamor disappears.
Whats the input lag on the kuro like? And whats it like for movies and games?
makes me really sad that the last 2 decades have seen Japan stagnate... the world could definitely use Japanese ingenuity nowadays
Been soldering for 15 years and do so professionally now as a circuit repair technician. I find the twist method for SMD electrolytic capacitor removal to be the safest and most reliable. I've tested all the methods you showed in the video over the years and the twist method is the only one I've had zero issues with; all the rest I've pulled pads, blown up capacitors, or just had a miserable time with doing. As long as you apply a very slight downward pressure while doing a slight twisting motion with the pliers and never pull up until the capacitor's legs are broken, you're golden. I've had a 100% success rate with it, no matter the state of the pads, corroded from field-use or otherwise.
At the end of the day, the best method is the one you're most comfortable with and I can't fault anyone for that, but I'd recommend revisiting the twist method. You'll be pleasantly surprised. Thank you for the video, Tito!
I'll definitely try out the twist method for sure! Thanks for your experience and advice!
He's getting really decent at soldering! Playing with electronics is an art in itself
This has been my experience too, even on boards that are particularly notorious for badly attached pads. Since the plastic under the cap is the first point of contact, all of the twisting force is applied to the plastic, the only thing that you need to be mindful of is like you said. I will say I don't apply any downward pressure either though; I just twist it in place without applying any directional forces
@@DrunkenMonk1 Only reason I apply the slight downward pressure, barely more than resting, really, is to ensure that I'm not pulling up. You're correct that it works without, but I do it as a precaution.
I trust Mr. Carlson! I thought he was trolling at first but it works
I love stuff like this. What a cool collector’s item. Mass respect to console 5 for selling packs for such an obscure device. I’m glad companies like that exist.
💯 console5 is a life saver!
Found a US LaserActive with the TurboGrafx PAC about 2 months ago at a FleaMarket in South Texas and snagged it for $40. Spent about 3 or 4 weeks recapping the LaserActive and a friend recapped the N10 for me. Lots of time and nerve racking troubleshooting and it’s back to life! Also got Zaxours RGB/SV mod installed. Tito’s videos were very helpful for reference while doing this as well!
There is a RGB mod for this console? Just video games, or movies too?
@@TheCoolDave Just for the games. Zaxour offers an S-Video mod option which is the version I installed.
@@evils0n22 Unless it's different but, like 4 points on the board could be soldered to get S-video out...
I hate you lol.
Hell of a find.
Japan has both systems, PAL + NTSC
I found a LaserActive for $20 at a thrift store years ago, just thinking "woah! LaserDisc player!" and gifted it to my brother...only to later find out what it actually was. We've gone back multiple times since then hoping to find any of the modules, but have never had any luck. Love to see this!
The fact that Pioneer thought of a modular system like this back in '93 is crazy to me.
The closest modern equivalent to this we got is the PolyMega, and that thing is emulated, so the fact that there was a system that could interface with two separate game consoles, that were competing at the time, via modules is insane, to be honest.
I feel like a lot of Japanese companies did some very cool experimenting with their design in the 80's to early 2000's. Miss those days.
It was the boom economy of the 90s. People had a lot of cash to blow and there was a high end market for items like this. Their golden times weren't concentrated in a few billionaires, so mid level managers could afford this kind of device.
Japan loves their space efficiency
The concept is pretty crazy but I doubt the interface itself would be anything special.
I designed a concept similar to this and the PolyMega when I was in high school between 2000-2004, but it took the modern systems at the time being the Xbox, PlayStation 2 and GameCube. Mine was called the Multi-PLAT integrated platform system and it looked more akin to a PolyMega. I wish when I was a teen I knew about the Pioneer system.
Oh, Tito, another suggestion: you consider advising people to take a picture of the board first, and adding a sticker that says "caps replaced 2024 aug 08" at the end of the repair.
That trimming method is kick-ass. I don't have the steady hands I used to have for soldering so any thing that can help me avoid it is good.
Such a stylish channel. The music, the light, filming angles and narration, anyway the whole package is top notch and classy.
The looks are timeless. It looks so sleek and modern. And the fact you could have two consoles in one back then is just crazy. 😮🤯
Never had the opportunity to get my hands on the PC Engine PAC- neat to finally see inside of it!
I've now repaired 3 Genesis PAC units and am on my 4th CLD-A100 repair. Those PAC units can be a *menace* to work on. If they weren't preventatively recapped, they will have suffered major damage from cap leaks. I had to rebuild just about every pad on a sub board in one of them. Stripped the board and ran it through the dishwasher to get the electrolytic fluid out of all those vias.
The LA unit I'm in the of repairing is actually my personal unit. Was hoping recapping the power supply and replacing the ICPs would do the job, but no such luck 😅
In the middle of a full recap and solder joint rework... man, that thing has a *lot* of caps!
Thanks for another great video!
I appreciate the in depth guide to recapping. While it's something I have done quite a lot now, I know new hobbyists will appreciate the guidance when the first try to do this.
Thank you for preserving something so obscure for the future!
This is a great video for taking notes about capacitors and sources for parts. I was born in 1975 and I remember this being discussed in the increasingly thicker electronic monthly magazine of the time. I could understand how parent would sit down and price it out with a teenagerwith the cost of something like this is but I can understand why somebody would choose to buy it because of all the cable management. Which is something that the retailers at The could’ve really talked about it as sales meeting.
I did the cut method for the smd caps on my SNES as I dont have a heat gun yet and it worked fine without any issues as it appears to cut the leads before they have a chance to apply any force on the pads. Just make sure you have really good cutters.
Definitely need really good flush cutters when doing cap removal this way.
One thing that I like in this videos is... the way that Tito use the soldering kit.
It may not be said a lot, but man, I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge on soldering cause I've a lot thanks to you!
With his box... Damn, what a beauty!
The second method looks the best to me in avoid stress to the pads, but a little pre-heating and flux could help with all the techniques to avoid that differents mechanic tensions cause eccessive stress and a disaster.
The techniques here are so clean! All the do's and don't you demonstrate are so helpful in general for electronics restoration. Thank you for mixing the education with the spotless work.
What a beautiful module, so well designed! It's probably a tech concept that was brought to market more than a mass consumer product. And your audio/video recording and lighting are very high quality as well!
Dude, the different methods is such a cool addition to the video. As someone learning, it is very helpful.
I havent watched all your videos so maybe you have done it before. But its a game changer for me!
I second this! Thanks for showing the capacitor removal methods!
More of this in the future, please!
Pioneer in the 90s was all about laserdisc. If they could they would've made a car stereo-video system based on Laserdisc.
Right but, in the day, in the 90's your video choices for home video was VHS or LD, and LD gave a far better picture than VHS..... not even close in most cases...
You brought justice to the LaserActive once again with the magnificent PC Engine.
You are a very polite presenter. Great video.
08:51 if IPA can't remove the adhesive try acetone just take care not to put any on plastic
I collect Laserdiscs. The Laseractive is on my list of things to buy if i hit the lottery. Yet another great video.
I love collecting for the laserdisc, such an awesome video format!
@@MachoNachoProductions it is a fun format to collect for but it is getting harder to find.
No cap, I actually think the snipping method is the best method overall. Although each method has its uses. Like for the VA0-VA5 Sega Saturns, I caution against using hot air at all (not even a FRAM mod on the other side of the board), because of those heat sensitive PLL chips.
There were actually quite a few caps.
Just send the iron on both pads at the same time, it isn't hard.
Man, I don't know about the others here, but it's therapeutical for me. It's a kind of cozy Lofi gamer content. I mean, I love this channel and I love these kind of tutorials. We're able to understand how refined the welding techniques are and how and for what each one is recommended.
I recapped my Pac-N1 last year. I would highly advise everyone to use flush cutters to remove the capacitors. Hot Air isn't a bad option either, but flush cutters would definitely help out with the caps that are glued down.
I've lifted MANY more pads trying to desolder SMD caps than by using the "twist" method. As others have said, you press down while doing a "twisty wiggle" of the play in the capacitor legs. Within a few seconds, the metal of the legs will fatigue and break, usually right at the edge of the solder. This typically leaves the base on the board, liiking much like your cut method... but without possibly releasing electrolyte.
Here's an idea: Grip the SMT cap with pliers, and then hit it with the hot tweezers with your other hand. That will allow you to remove the heat while still applying some (gentle) force upward.
Such a cool console, would love to have the money(and the room) to add it to my retro collection. Great stuff Nacho!
Hey Tito. I just wanted to say in case you haven't seen it yet, I really love the music choices you have for your videos. It's really nice and relaxing especially on tough builds. Makes it also really nice to watch. Much love.
I believe a lot of it is UA-cam royalty-free music. LGR and others use the same music
I believe that red chip glue softens with heat, so it's probably a matter of gradually heating everything up with hot air at a lower temp and then switching to a higher temp to melt the solder and get it off. It makes it a bit trickier since it will still require some force to pull it off, but you do want to make sure that resistance is coming from the glue and NOT the solder joints.
I couldnt care less for the obscure Pioneer rig, it's interesting but i doubt i'll have the chance to play with one in a lifetime, yet your videos are so cool and educational, it's a pleasure watch you fix, restore, repair and mod all this retro consoles while learning. Thank you Tito!
Whenever there's a new Macho Nacho video, I know it's going to be a good day. Top-notch editing and overall production
I love the aspect of repairing all the stuff, but there's definitely a lot more soldering techniques not mentioned here. I was inspired by Louis Rossmann and learned a lot on my own
I worked at Fry's, we had them and the literal sales plan was "watch the rich, shoes, car, etc.". Also the massive multi crt screen took an insane amount of work to fix.
the music, the informatiom... It's like Mr. Rogers meets TRON. Thanks, as always, Tito. NACHOOOOOOOOOOOO!
As a Laserdisc and Sega/PC Engine I admire the hell out of these things, so cool you've kept this one alive so well
Outstanding production quality brother! Keep up the great work!
Always excellent, thank you.
FWVLIW: I was horrified when I first saw the 'twist method' to remove this kind of cap. But once tried it's my go-to method, no issues to report.
A little tip - 'Ceramic' equivalents of 'Electrolytic' SMD caps are available - The largest size will usually bridge the pads fine, and will never leak.
Great video & audio quality, clear instructions and jazzy background music... what more could we ask for!
I didn't know about this machine and slot peripherals, it's amazing... need to investigate more about them and why they do even exist to begin with
The Twist method works really well. I did that method on a Mac Classic II I refurbished and a PowerBook 150 that I did the caps on the Screen for. The trick with that method is to ensure you are only doing horizontal twisting and not any vertical force. This causes the two prongs in the capacitor to rip out of the can and then the can slips off without putting any force on the pads on the board. Then simply unsolder the left over leads from the old capacitor.
A Tip: Make sure to take a detailed picture of the board you are replacing the caps on. This way, you can check to make sure you put the caps back on in the right orientation. You can also use a sharpie to make a mark on the board indicating the polarity.
I should get one of these, I'm a huge nerd when it comes to old media formats and retro games so this just combines two of my favorite hobbies into one system lol
The SMT cap section was gold.
Seriously dude, cut that section out and make a new video that is literally just this and give it the title how to replaced SMT caps, it’s such a valuable section and needs exposure
You don't even have to do any of those techniques to remove SMD caps - literally just put the hot iron on both pads at the same time by pushing the soldering iron directly against the two pad sides. The heat from the iron is enough to transfer through the aluminum casing to the pads, and the plastic is just gonna burn outta your way anyways. Just push that iron right next to it and it'll take right off. It's really not hard - just be gentle not to tear pads.
And there is also a heat rework tool that you can use to easily lift them off, too, but you gotta mask off the areas that can't do heat (plastic parts mainly - typically using kapton tape).
Dang, that's actually a good idea! I may have to do just that!
I'm always moving from one place to another and sometimes living in cramped rooms, but I wish to keep being able to do this kind of electronics experiments. What should I prioritize when looking for a tool for doing surface mount soldering and desoldering and if I only have one tool, which type should I get?
@@gluttonousmaximus9048soldering iron! I use the pinecil v2 with fine tips, would work well for you too because it’s USB-C it takes basically no space because no base station. Will need a good USB-C brick though if you want to have fast heat up (I use a 96w Apple charger)
I was telling my wife that these existed a few days ago when we were making dinner. She stared at me and didn't say anything. Either she had no idea how to respond or genuinely wasn't interested.
Found one at a flea market 2 months ago and my wife couldn’t understand why I was so excited and practically peeing my pants when I saw it. Seller was asking $50 and my wife haggled it down to $40. I was ready to pay so much more! Lol
@@evils0n22Thats sweet as furk
An all too common occurrence in my household...
She didn't know how to respond because she wasn't interested, bud
Completely uninterested/most likely confused lol
Replacing electrolytic capacitors with tantalum capacitors is often a better choice because tantalum capacitors are more reliable and less prone to future issues like acid leakage. Electrolytic capacitors can degrade over time, leading to leaks that can cause damage to the circuit and other components. Tantalum capacitors, on the other hand, are solid-state devices, meaning they don't contain liquid electrolytes, which significantly reduces the risk of leaks. Additionally, tantalum capacitors tend to have a longer lifespan and better stability, making them a more durable and safer option for long-term use in electronic circuits.
00:45 Hey, that's me! Love the video as always.
Excellent video. The infographic and narration about the model number naming scheme was a nice addition!
This is really awesome, I really like it but I don't think I'll ever be able to add a LaserActive with the PACs to my collection. Great video as always!
First time I watch one your videos. First I'm so interested about discovering such a great device wow! Then I am amazed about your skills in electronic. On top of that you seem to be very good at explaining things. Love that.Thank you.
ive never had an issue with twisting the smd caps off. the trick is to come in from above and press down while twisting slowly and allow the cap to break off instead of pulling up
Love discovering cool tech I'd never heard of through your channel. Also, thanks for the demo of different cap removal techniques- it's something you didn't explicitly need to do for this mod, but did it anyway because you care about the community and helping people learn. S-tier content creator stuff right there ❤
Hey Tito, awesome guide and video, and a really astonishing piece of hardware. The twisting method works better than you would think, because the little plastic under the cap keeps the contacts straight, with the drop of adhesive in this case here this is even enhanced, the force on the leads is longitudinal, where the pads have most retaining force. I recapped an amiga cd32 with no pad torn or even damaged. For heavy corroded pads I would try another method, but even the flush cutter method would put too much force on the pads. Try the twist method on some broken stuff.
3:06 holy cow! Most expensive console ever!
17:44 that's the biggest disc I've ever seen. 😮
Great job on all thos capacitors
Poor poor Laserdisc, you were too good for this world l, and died young, literally.
The design language of that laserdisc player is just *chef's kiss*.
when I first saw the ld rom disk in your hand I first thought you had little baby hands but now with a proper contrast and comparison in size to a normal disk I can conclude that you have normal hands and those roms are just holy hell sized Frisbees to this point.
Yep, I'm with you regarding not twisting off capacitors. Far too many Sony and Sega Products come into me for repair with damaged traces because of that method. Nice video by the way.
I wish I still owned a Turbografx-16. Back in the day when it was released, I remember thinking how futuristic and cool it was that the games were on Hucards. I was 8/9 years old at the time, so anything other than a floppy disk or a cartridge was rad. I actually didn't even know there was other game consoles that utilized Hucards until I watched this video. Heck, the Hucard in the thumbnail was the whole reason I clicked on it in the first place! 😁 Thanks for sharing your knowledge of these obscure devices.
You can also use two solder pens (one in each hand) as a cheap alternative to hot tweezers.
Cutting method seems like the best from all i've seen, least amount of stress on the pads, tho it is a little messier.
Also the reason why all these electrolytic caps have failed seems to be because they got heated up way too hot when they were originally installed, presumably via some kind of wave soldering system, or an oven, and the gasket inside was prematurely degraded. Otherwise they should not be leaking like that even 30 years after manufacturing, you can tell that all the through-hole capacitors of the era tend to be fine and only fail sporadically, meanwhile failed SMD electrolytics are a constant.
I'm a full proponent of the twist method! It's such a time saver and I've removed hundreds and hundreds of caps this way with no issues. This is including some nasty game gear boards. The key is to not lift at all, just keep twisting in one direction until the legs break then remove the plastic piece. If anything I apply a slight down force when doing this to better prevent lifting.
I find the rocking method to be the absolute worst. That one has had the highest amount of lifted pads for me.
I'll definitely have to give it a try one of these days
It is surprising how modern the LaserActive console looks for being over 30 years old!
I love the design aesthetic of 80's and 90's tech
How are 30 year old electronics supposed to look? Were you expecting vacuum tubes and discrete transistors?
@@MrRobarino that's not what I was implying. The aesthetic has a modern appeal and if you were to put this next to modern day consoles it doesn't look out of place.
whenever you are working with aluminium capacitors, USE EYE PROTECTION, the cap liquid inside when heated can literally boil creating pressure, and exploding producing small shrapnel that goes directly to your eyes for some reason. USE EYE PROTECTION when handling it.
The tech community thanks you for your service
My way to go to remove caps like these is before soldering, I use a wide plier and give the caps a VERY gentle twist until I hear a cracking sound. That means the glue/welded plastic is broken off the board and I can resume desoldering the caps.
The ending bit with showing Nedry getting the embryos hit my nostalgia
The grab and twist method actually really does work. If there's no obvious signs of damage to the pads and traces, it's exceptionally unlikely to result in a lifted pad. It absolutely seems - and looks and feels - like you will, but somehow they're a remarkably strong bond and I know plenty of folks who say they've never damaged a pad this way.
No it doesn't. It will tear pads. Not recommended by any serious ET.
It’s about time you use a CRT for all those oldskool consoles 😊
Back when these were on sale it was a common thing for someone who had little electronic knowledge, large amounts of disposable income and an unhealthy case of "keeping up with the Joneses", to go down to the local Circuit City and buy a whole entertainment system which included everything. A huge TV, surround sound system, laser disc players etc, and have it all professionally installed.
Systems like this were a big upsell. The salesmen would say things like "You can change out your kids gaming console with this simple cartridge system". The idea of not having to call in the experts that installed your entertainment system to add a new game console to your system was pretty attractive to yuppies.
Tito, you’re one of those people who just randomly has everything ever made
I miss the 80s and 90s.....good times....good times were had. I recall my first DVD player and the magic of 480p over component video out and audio through my first surround sound stereo with a subwoofer.
to remove the glued bases, use the heated tweezers and a pair of regular tweezers. the regular one goes under the base to pry the glue off while you hold the cap with the heated ones.
Oh my god! the Pac ❤ miss that console! My first childhood console
This system and the Neo Geo were gaming unobtanium. My young self fantasized of being able to afford, what was to me at least, the ultimate gaming machines. Alas, even in adulthood, I still must live vicariously through all the great gaming folks on YT.
You've learned a lot. Your soldering skills remind of Voultar's, which is nice.
Made me think of the JVC X'eye that I have cuz it was a combo Genesis/CD that retailed for $500, which was way more than the consoles separately. JVC was the chip supplier on the Genesis and said "You know what? Let's make our own and make it WAY more expensive." It's the most unique console I own
NO, JVC did NOT develop the sound card in the Genesis. The audio in a Sega Genesis is a Yamaha YM2612 for music plus a Z80 based Programmable Sound Generator (PSG) for Square Wave sounds, tones, and noise. The PSG was the same chip used in the Master System. JVC had nothing to do with it beside be a chip supplier.
The partnership Sega with JVC did allow JVC to develop the WonderMega line, which is basically a Sega Genesis/Sega CD/Karaoke Machine which sold mostly in Japan (at a way higher price). JVC did try to sell the Wondermega in the USA as the JVC X'Eye (again at a higher price). Beyond that there is nothing particularly special about the Wondermega hardware.
@@MrRobarino Ah my mistake, they were the supplier. Thank you for the correction :)
The holy grail for us old gamers LaserActive with both Sega and NEC modules!!! Then and now!
I love your channel and your content is very interesting, I instantly got addicted and had to binge watch your videos. Keep up the good work!!
Great, another amazing looking rare hardware that I can lust after for the rest of my natural life and never see in person... Thanks for showing it off. ❤
In all soldering/desoldering tutorials I saw american technicians using soldering suckers, that are so common in Brazil. They help a lot on clearing these kind of components. Why their use is not so widespread in North America? It is cheaper than using solder wick and desoldering guns.....
Solder suckers are great if you have access to the pins on the other side of the board. In this case they didn't go through, so the best easiest method was to use the "cut" method. And just cut the cap at the board and remove the rest afterwards.
The silicon tip ones are great
@@graphicsgod I find that they still work fine in surface soldering... Even if you have to use it a couple of extra times.
I love your tutorials. It makes all the modding so much easier when someone like me, owns all of the consoles from PS1 to Wii and needs to check my PS1, PS2 and Gameboy Advanced SP very soon.
*Game Boy *Advance SP
Time to lunch and relax with another awesome video!!! Keep it up!!! (P.S.: It's 01:20 pm here in São Paulo, Brazil)
Thank you! Hope you enjoyed this video during your lunch!
Having a Laser Active back in the day was the dream.
I've had pretty good luck with just kinda twisting the old caps off, and then using a soldering iron to remove the remaining legs
The snip method works well (much safer than the twist method), especially if you use tweezers (or a spudger in your case) to hold the capacitor down firmly as you snip. A leaky cap can make those pads or adjoining traces very delicate, and they'll lift and/or break while snipping if not careful.
I too have a Laser Active! But I only have the Sega PAC. I remember finding two more on clearance for $500 that included ALL the PACs!! I actually said, I already have one and opted to pass up the deal as I was not into Turbo Grafx!! Very big mistake!
Looks absolutely gorgeous!
That trimming method makes the left over capacitors look so tasty, kinda like metal marshmallows.
I work at a goodwill store and we got one of those laserdisc players, fully functional donated in. Needless to say it sold for a lot on the online store
Watching these videos is so relaxing.
Holy moly so interesting but what got me the most was your insane watch tan lol
Haha yeah, I get that tan every year during the summer months 😂
My SMD capacitor removal experience: Some PCB's have very fragile traces and lifting one side of the cap or cutting it can rip these. I don't have a tweezer iron, instead used 2 soldering irons: preheat the solder joints and add some solder then hit them each side simultaneously with a soldering iron in each hand. Sounds a bit weird but it works really well,
Thank you for cap kit webpage, i been looking for ages for one like that one and closest i found was ebay!
Always cool to see you mod or repair obscure and old consoles.
I have only seen one of these in real life. It was in a display case at the river falls mall in southern Indiana. I didn't think anybody ever bought one.
This is one of the very few items I would spend good money on, if I had good money. I love the Laserdisc media format, and love love love the module based game adapters for the LaserActive.