Thank you, that is what I am hoping to achieve with my videos. Showing just how easy and cheap it is to make wicked electric toys these days, which hopefully helps to build the community ✌
Yes, you should be able to shunt mod most non programmable controllers. Just make sure your battery will handle and be careful not to generate too much heat with the extra power
protip: If you want even *more* power, it's possible to do a cap and FET swap for 100v rated components. the bones of these generic motor controllers is capable of taking north of 88v if you spec the right MOSFETs and main capacitors... Before changing over to a pair of VESCs, I used a pair of shunt, cap and transistor modified controllers on a 76.8v LiFePo4 battery for a total power output of about 6kW AWD... from bone stock 1500w motors as well. They seemed to handle 3,000w at that voltage shockingly well since I never ran into heat issues or even hot phase wires on both the stock motor controllers (which were a pair of 500w jobbies initially), or the motors.
I have a Mac chain drive motor that was originally only rated for 48v 1000w but I've pushed 72v 7.5kw throw that thing and had zero issues yet, just hit 200miles on the build too
@@MrJasenstewart97 i just got a 500w cheapo off amazon and i already suspect that it can handle much more than it's getting. In the setting I was able to disable speed caps and was able to go from 20mph (locked) to topping out at 27mph with the stock 48v battery. After riding it wide open 6 miles to work, the motor hub isn't even warm to the touch. It doesn't seem to be working very hard. I am new with ebikes but I spent a lot of time building 10th scaled off road rc and you knew when you were stressing the system when the motor was too hot to touch for more than a few seconds lol, that was the in field method of checking the stress on the motor with whatever gear ratio/battery setup you had going. point is i would run 3s into a motor that was rated for 2s and beat the living hell out of it, competing with motors that cost 10x more no problem lol I am thinking about dropping a 60v in it and see what it does with that. After that point i will need to get a different controller in it if I wanted to go to 72v. The stock controller can be set for 36v 48v 52v and 60v I have a target of ~40mph with this particular bike and I am going to see if we can do that on the stock hub lol
@@eonreeves4324 oh ok, well thanks anyway, I'm thinking of getting a 1500w 48v rear hub kit to slap on my 26" mtb, I'll be getting a 52v triangle battery, hopefully 20ah as it's all hills here in the U.K where I live... I'm just trying to gather as much info before I buy a kit/battery... Kinda torn between a Voilamart or maybe a ebikeling kit, if you have any info on which is the best affordable kit it's greatly appreciated... I'm expecting to pay no more than about £650 (got bike already) for the kit and battery. Cheers.
regarding shunt mod. flip the board and solder a 4awg wire between terminals, at least this way you have less resistance compared to solder, also its reversible if you change your mind. simply remove wire.
i shunt modded my 3kw controller, before the mod it would do 75v x 60amp for 4.5kw, i did the shunt mod and got it up to 75v x 90amps for 6750watts, it lasted 3 nights of easy riding and about 5 miles total before it blew caps and other things on the board. i since then got a much bigger "3kw" controller that i think was marked wrong as its so much bigger and heavier, can go up to 114v and a max of 80 amps for 9.1kw, i shunt modded it too, but honestly i didnt even need to and its built like a tank, i have put a few thousand miles on it and i push it pretty hard sll the time
@@novaturbkkk with the old controller i had it up to 60mph one time to see how fast it could go, it had a bit more power in it but 60mph was already too fast. i have since upgraded both the controller and the motor. weight really isnt the issue with top speed btw, me and my bike are heavy. i am stronger than average and can barely pick the bike up if its fully loaded with all the battery and gear, plus its awkward. i started with a 3kw rear hub kit from ebay. just find the size wheel for your bike, get that kit, and get a battery. batteries are expensive, and i normally only go about 30 to 35mph, anything much faster and it becomes too stressful
Hey i wanted to give a warning: i didn't use ferrofluid or hubsinks and absolutely cooked my motor. The shunted 45a 72v controller is fine. Had it up to 51 mph with my son on it.
I could only get 15s to fit in this battery box and that gets me 55kph, have run it for a while on 18s without heat problems and get 65kph top speed. Have not tried 20s....... yet
@@jd-dc isn't there any limit in voltage for this contoller? from 12s to 20s is a big jump! crazy that this chinese controller can handle 18s already..
I have a 1500w/52v system with solder shunts, but I’m not able to get passed 26amps. I wonder if there is anything else on a control that restricts amp flow.
The reason for it being hotter is that the bro will be running flat out top power instead of the less draw of your bike to achieve the same outcome making the less powerful bike straining and your product cruising more gently
Nice work. Curious for measurements. Recommendation: remove the yellow black connector. Mine caused a controller fail. The one with 3 wires where bolt and nut connect
Thank you, yes good call I have heard that they can fail, I've been looking for a suitable 3 pin plug but most of them are pretty small so I'm thinking about using 2 xt90s for the 3 phase wires. It's a 205 hub motor, KS brand on the side of the motor.
this adjustment is very interesting. can this modified control unit still have 3000 s hubsink and ferufloid ?? how many volt batteries do i need for this unit, thank you for your reply
On the engwe x26 bike … your opinion on simple upgrade to 50mph bike?…. Basically a typical rear 750watt with weak controller…main goal is better response on throttle. Am I better off replacing controller or fusing it like you did?….thanks
SUPERB. i got a FOREKNOW fat bike and put 1500watt motor and controller. 52v 21 amp hour Battery. It's a heavy bike. up hill 24mph .. down hill 45+. i need more torque more than distance. This is will try. PS... i have seen people fill the controller with a heat conductive resin to dissipate the mosfet heat to the outer casing... any thoughts on that? Thanks.
Dammit... I knew the little motor had more in her. I built one last year and went with the bigger QS motor as I was not 100% on the tuning, I ride at about 6k max anyway and the lower un-sprung weight on the back wheel would easily make up for the diff. I have recommended to so many people to get the little one and try something like this but I have never seen it done. Nice.
Love the video just a quick question I’ve got a 1000w kit with the shunt mod so by doing the ferofluid in the hub will make it higher the the 1000w? Cheers
What the shunt mod does is allow the controller to draw more power from the battery pack. If your controller supports the extra load(always check!), then that's great. As for what the ferrofluid, it is used for decreasing the thermal resistance of the motor to the outside, allowing it to be cooled more effectively.
Got damn sick video bro , I have the same kit 1500w 52v on my fat bike and always wondered how to make it acceleration faster, do you think I can get away doing this mode without using ferrofluid? If I'm not planing to go full throttle all the time. Thanks dude
Awesome bro yes definitely, you just need to keep an eye on the temperature of your motor and controller, and make sure the battery can handle it. I ran it like this for a year with no ferrofluid or hubsinks and I couldn't see any obvious heat damage when I opened it up. Depending on the type of solder you use and how much will dictate how much the power will increase, I used 50% lead solder for minimum resistance, maximum power
Great video I've built an e scooter using a 1500w 20 inch wheel kit running 48v 17ah battery if I just solder the shunt together will that give me more power? I'm a Newby to electrikery tinkering.
Yes that will work, just make sure your battery can handle the extra power. There are lots of videos on youtube of people doing close up shunt mods if you search "shunt mod" you will find some more in depth instructional videos
What is the logic with soldering the shunt how does this make the controller better. Also what makes it 5kw? The controller shunt and battery? Boosting the 1500w motor?
Its volt X amp = watt if batteries have higher Amp continuous draw and bms can handle it, you can shunt mod the controller to allow for higher Amp draw resulting in higher current resulting in more power.. from what I hear, higher amps allow for better torque
@@dixon266 I suppose that makes sense if the batteries can handle the power output beef up the controller to handle more current flow. Appreciate your help I'll remember that
there is an 2 part epoxy thermal glue I used on custom built heat sinks for ram and other components..never tested it against a clamp system and thermal paste but did see drops in temps with ram on video cards and computer ram..there are different grades of thermal paste that work much better than just 2 dollar generic thermal paste..Artic Silver is the best I have found..btw he did use to much paste..more is not better..then thinnest coat possible is what is best.
Yes the only way to increase your speed now is to increase the voltage and your current controller may not be able to handle that. I see flipsky have a 100A 72v ebike speed controller on aliexpress for around 100usd. I just ordered one so will put up a video of what it's like when I get it
Hi there, just popping by to see if anyone can help. I've purchased a 250w e bike conversion kit. Currently I'm getting the 03 info pas error code. Everything else apart from motor seems to be working, any ideas?
That’s where I just got 12 pairs of brake pads for my aventon level only site that has correct ones by pic!, took about 20 days to get but I got 12 pairs for about 21 dollars the same price as the bike shop charges for one pair normal price
Hello. I have already built a massive 48V battery for this kit and I wouldn't want to build a new one for increased voltage. Do you think there will be benefits just by doing the higher current mod? Also, could you please tell me how many magnets does this motor have? I seem to have wrong settings in my bike computer... I don't know what number to put in the P1 setting... (kt-lcd3 is the display/computer) I also don't know what to do with the P2 setting :"D
This is the stealth model, the hub motors are so quiet but yes I have a 6kw cyclone kit I am installing on a kona stink e. Very excited to see how it performs
Hi ! I recently bought a wheel of this type, I did everything as you did. But the wheel turns in the opposite direction. What do you suggest I do with it? Thx G.
How fast did you get it up to you never mentioned that? Also could I do the same with a 350w kit to test the theory try get 350w to 1kw atleast I already have a 1kw bike but it’s for work
Thank you, on the 15s (54v) battery I'm running it on at the moment I get 55kph top speed but on 18s it goes 65kph. Next I will cut up the frame to make a new battery box for a bigger battery
@@Louis-lu5wh yes you could be right, I'm using 8awg and xt90 connectors down to the 12awg cables on the esc so I could upgrade those, but the speed is also determined by the amount of winds on the motor and the diameter of the tire. The more turns around the stator will increase torque and decrease top speed and vice versa
@King Rafael cool. Thank you. So, oversize the battery for long life. I just built a Samsung 20s5p with a Daly 80amp BMS but the cells are rated for 175amp constant, 200 peak. I spent a lot of money in this pack and didn't want to kill them early.
I haven't done a max range test because I can't stop myself riding hard lol but on a hilly off road ride with not much peddling at all, I usually get between 10 and 15kms on that 15s 12ah set up in the video
So far I have been riding it like this for 15 months but the first 2 months it was on a 20 inch wheel. I did notice the hub motor getting hot which is why I decided to install the hub sinks. This KS brand motor (qs rip off) I used seems very solid
Your a legend 👏...please can you tell me were to find the road legal 500w stiker..as I was looking yestoday on line ..to no success. Only found 250w ..wich I won't get away with
Yes it can but the kit from this video has a large motor and controller for 1500w which may or may not be the case with your set up so try not to over do it right away and make sure you monitor the heat until you know how much it can handle. Most mid drives have heat sinks already but you cam add statorade to help with the cooling. I have a video coming out in the next couple of months on a 6kw cyclone mid drive kit that was pretty cheap. It's going on a 2010 kona stinky, I will add links and a ride review also
@@jd-dc My control unit is outside so it takes air and the engine, how can I understand if it gets too hot, but making this change decreases the autonomy
@Edser electric I love how many replies you have given to people with questions. Great job helping the E.V community.
Thank you, that is what I am hoping to achieve with my videos. Showing just how easy and cheap it is to make wicked electric toys these days, which hopefully helps to build the community ✌
@@jd-dc hey bro do these kits come with the battery or do i have to buy on its on if so where do i buy
a little tip with putting the axel in the drop outs, is to get one side in then use your palm to push the axel and your fingers to pull the dropout!
This is the best ebike video I think I've ever seen even with the music the talking can be distracting I want to do this for a living now!
Do you reckon that can be done to a 1000watt engine soldering the two bridges together
Yes, you should be able to shunt mod most non programmable controllers. Just make sure your battery will handle and be careful not to generate too much heat with the extra power
I would think you would just need to hope it has good enough components to handle the power
Great video.
What battery did you use to build the 1500w bike originally and what’s the top speed and mileage?
so if we change the whole controler???as probably it comes with the new 5kw motor, and what do we do with the battery?
what do you mean half throttle for double power?
absolute g thank you for taking the time make this, epic dude!
My favorite part of this is unlike the other madlads doing things of this nature you, like myself actually wear a HELMET.
Giant ac most versatile bike in the world had 3 of them from cross country to free ride they do it all!
protip:
If you want even *more* power, it's possible to do a cap and FET swap for 100v rated components. the bones of these generic motor controllers is capable of taking north of 88v if you spec the right MOSFETs and main capacitors...
Before changing over to a pair of VESCs, I used a pair of shunt, cap and transistor modified controllers on a 76.8v LiFePo4 battery for a total power output of about 6kW AWD... from bone stock 1500w motors as well. They seemed to handle 3,000w at that voltage shockingly well since I never ran into heat issues or even hot phase wires on both the stock motor controllers (which were a pair of 500w jobbies initially), or the motors.
I have a Mac chain drive motor that was originally only rated for 48v 1000w but I've pushed 72v 7.5kw throw that thing and had zero issues yet, just hit 200miles on the build too
@@MrJasenstewart97 i just got a 500w cheapo off amazon and i already suspect that it can handle much more than it's getting.
In the setting I was able to disable speed caps and was able to go from 20mph (locked) to topping out at 27mph with the stock 48v battery.
After riding it wide open 6 miles to work, the motor hub isn't even warm to the touch. It doesn't seem to be working very hard. I am new with ebikes but I spent a lot of time building 10th scaled off road rc and you knew when you were stressing the system when the motor was too hot to touch for more than a few seconds lol, that was the in field method of checking the stress on the motor with whatever gear ratio/battery setup you had going. point is i would run 3s into a motor that was rated for 2s and beat the living hell out of it, competing with motors that cost 10x more no problem lol
I am thinking about dropping a 60v in it and see what it does with that. After that point i will need to get a different controller in it if I wanted to go to 72v.
The stock controller can be set for 36v 48v 52v and 60v
I have a target of ~40mph with this particular bike and I am going to see if we can do that on the stock hub lol
@@eonreeves4324did it work, I'm interested??
@@mickyb.8014 haven't tried it yet lol the battery pack is pretty expensive. I'll get to it eventually.
@@eonreeves4324 oh ok, well thanks anyway, I'm thinking of getting a 1500w 48v rear hub kit to slap on my 26" mtb, I'll be getting a 52v triangle battery, hopefully 20ah as it's all hills here in the U.K where I live...
I'm just trying to gather as much info before I buy a kit/battery...
Kinda torn between a Voilamart or maybe a ebikeling kit, if you have any info on which is the best affordable kit it's greatly appreciated...
I'm expecting to pay no more than about £650 (got bike already) for the kit and battery.
Cheers.
Following your advice for the controller I made it to pull 130A at peak. A bit too much. Not saying I don't like it but my batteries bms are 50A each
regarding shunt mod. flip the board and solder a 4awg wire between terminals, at least this way you have less resistance compared to solder, also its reversible if you change your mind. simply remove wire.
i shunt modded my 3kw controller, before the mod it would do 75v x 60amp for 4.5kw, i did the shunt mod and got it up to 75v x 90amps for 6750watts, it lasted 3 nights of easy riding and about 5 miles total before it blew caps and other things on the board. i since then got a much bigger "3kw" controller that i think was marked wrong as its so much bigger and heavier, can go up to 114v and a max of 80 amps for 9.1kw, i shunt modded it too, but honestly i didnt even need to and its built like a tank, i have put a few thousand miles on it and i push it pretty hard sll the time
How fast does it do. How much do you weigh. Where can I get the parts
@@novaturbkkk with the old controller i had it up to 60mph one time to see how fast it could go, it had a bit more power in it but 60mph was already too fast. i have since upgraded both the controller and the motor.
weight really isnt the issue with top speed btw, me and my bike are heavy. i am stronger than average and can barely pick the bike up if its fully loaded with all the battery and gear, plus its awkward. i started with a 3kw rear hub kit from ebay. just find the size wheel for your bike, get that kit, and get a battery. batteries are expensive, and i normally only go about 30 to 35mph, anything much faster and it becomes too stressful
@@jasonbrown467 How about the torque? Great? And where did you get your battery ? A 72 v?
@@lucasp1776 18s1p lipo when fully charged its 75.6v i think.
@@jasonbrown467 and the torque of your bike?
How many mm are the phase cables and how do they withstand this much power?
Was thinking the same thing
paint inside of the motor in dark black. the shell absorb heat much more
how do you ensure safe charging? would it be at risk of exploding? how about if left on charge too?
I find much to recommend this frame design. Any hints on how to descibe it for searching / shopping?
Hey i wanted to give a warning: i didn't use ferrofluid or hubsinks and absolutely cooked my motor. The shunted 45a 72v controller is fine.
Had it up to 51 mph with my son on it.
Is this motor works with this normal? The driver work ok?
What's the safest top speed without overheating the controller/ motor and what's the absolute top speed?
I could only get 15s to fit in this battery box and that gets me 55kph, have run it for a while on 18s without heat problems and get 65kph top speed. Have not tried 20s....... yet
It's the bearings and wheels you want to worry about doing those speeds 😂
I've had up to 90km/h+. This guy used a csc ks 40h, so it can handle some serious power. Good little motors.
@@jd-dc isn't there any limit in voltage for this contoller? from 12s to 20s is a big jump! crazy that this chinese controller can handle 18s already..
@@jd-dc what do you mean by 15s 18s and 20s I'm a newbie..
Well done, I´m trying to adapt somethjng similar, a 48v motor on a 17" motorcycle rim, it´s extremely hard
I have a 1500w/52v system with solder shunts, but I’m not able to get passed 26amps. I wonder if there is anything else on a control that restricts amp flow.
If its sw900 controller, in settings menu, go to p14 and set it to max amps your battery can do.
The reason for it being hotter is that the bro will be running flat out top power instead of the less draw of your bike to achieve the same outcome making the less powerful bike straining and your product cruising more gently
Nice work. Curious for measurements.
Recommendation: remove the yellow black connector. Mine caused a controller fail.
The one with 3 wires where bolt and nut connect
Thank you, yes good call I have heard that they can fail, I've been looking for a suitable 3 pin plug but most of them are pretty small so I'm thinking about using 2 xt90s for the 3 phase wires. It's a 205 hub motor, KS brand on the side of the motor.
For the plus 30 A I am experimenting with big plugs. I cannot find a name. They can be bought on Ali. Plastic big car plugs.
Amazing build!
Do you think it can handle 30amp cont and 60 peak without the heatsink etc
this adjustment is very interesting. can this modified control unit still have 3000 s hubsink and ferufloid ?? how many volt batteries do i need for this unit, thank you for your reply
Hello! How many NM torque have at this time? And max speed?
It's so delicious it's like adding more cooling to a gpu or something but for fellow traveling
On the engwe x26 bike … your opinion on simple upgrade to 50mph bike?…. Basically a typical rear 750watt with weak controller…main goal is better response on throttle. Am I better off replacing controller or fusing it like you did?….thanks
Awesome job!!!! And the video with the footage is crazy!
How to you keep your batteries from heating up pulling 80A!
SUPERB. i got a FOREKNOW fat bike and put 1500watt motor and controller. 52v 21 amp hour Battery. It's a heavy bike. up hill 24mph .. down hill 45+. i need more torque more than distance.
This is will try. PS... i have seen people fill the controller with a heat conductive resin to dissipate the mosfet heat to the outer casing... any thoughts on that? Thanks.
Question, what on earth do you mean by "Halft Throttle for double the power"
In the video I doubled the power and then put a half size throttle on
Is it even Build for this? So can it output that Power longterm? And could you send that link again because it doesnt work no more
Dammit... I knew the little motor had more in her. I built one last year and went with the bigger QS motor as I was not 100% on the tuning, I ride at about 6k max anyway and the lower un-sprung weight on the back wheel would easily make up for the diff. I have recommended to so many people to get the little one and try something like this but I have never seen it done. Nice.
I lliked the music starting @ the 8:40 . By the near the end I was loving it
This bike is epic, love the cooking mod
Love the video just a quick question I’ve got a 1000w kit with the shunt mod so by doing the ferofluid in the hub will make it higher the the 1000w? Cheers
What the shunt mod does is allow the controller to draw more power from the battery pack. If your controller supports the extra load(always check!), then that's great.
As for what the ferrofluid, it is used for decreasing the thermal resistance of the motor to the outside, allowing it to be cooled more effectively.
Man that statorade ain't no joke ...proof is in the pudding
Got damn sick video bro , I have the same kit 1500w 52v on my fat bike and always wondered how to make it acceleration faster, do you think I can get away doing this mode without using ferrofluid? If I'm not planing to go full throttle all the time.
Thanks dude
Awesome bro yes definitely, you just need to keep an eye on the temperature of your motor and controller, and make sure the battery can handle it. I ran it like this for a year with no ferrofluid or hubsinks and I couldn't see any obvious heat damage when I opened it up. Depending on the type of solder you use and how much will dictate how much the power will increase, I used 50% lead solder for minimum resistance, maximum power
So can I under volt the controller bc I want to use my weekwacker ego batteries?
Best ebike diy video ever!
Great video I've built an e scooter using a 1500w 20 inch wheel kit running 48v 17ah battery if I just solder the shunt together will that give me more power? I'm a Newby to electrikery tinkering.
Yes that will work, just make sure your battery can handle the extra power. There are lots of videos on youtube of people doing close up shunt mods if you search "shunt mod" you will find some more in depth instructional videos
What is the logic with soldering the shunt how does this make the controller better. Also what makes it 5kw? The controller shunt and battery? Boosting the 1500w motor?
Its volt X amp = watt if batteries have higher Amp continuous draw and bms can handle it, you can shunt mod the controller to allow for higher Amp draw resulting in higher current resulting in more power.. from what I hear, higher amps allow for better torque
@@dixon266 I suppose that makes sense if the batteries can handle the power output beef up the controller to handle more current flow. Appreciate your help I'll remember that
On your 12 AH battery what is the continuous. No where near 80 amps i bet . If so what cells you using? Batteries wont last long may even burn.
Hi I've got 4 shunt in mine what do I do
if i did this on a 1kw kit and used a 2kw battery. Would it break the battery or just pull 2kw
It would just pull 2kW from the battery pack.
there is an 2 part epoxy thermal glue I used on custom built heat sinks for ram and other components..never tested it against a clamp system and thermal paste but did see drops in temps with ram on video cards and computer ram..there are different grades of thermal paste that work much better than just 2 dollar generic thermal paste..Artic Silver is the best I have found..btw he did use to much paste..more is not better..then thinnest coat possible is what is best.
what are the tools i need for this?
in Germany they check top speed and fine 3000$ if it's higher than 25km/h
U r truly a mechanical engineer bro 👌🙂👍👏
I wish I had the tools to do this! I may have to resort to purchasing one already assembled.
Which heatsink kit did you order? I see they have quite a few options. Thanks!!!
I ended up going with the QS205 and it fits great
how i now my hubsink sice need for a hub motor 48v 1500w fat tire 20 ? is a chinese alliexpres hub motor
Just if it gets too hot, hubsink can help keep it cool, you can test it by feeling the side if the motor with your hand after a hard ride
@@jd-dc i cant made my ebike go faster than 56kmh , and have 67v batery 1500w hub motor :( the controller maybe need to change to a kelly or sabvoton?
Yes the only way to increase your speed now is to increase the voltage and your current controller may not be able to handle that. I see flipsky have a 100A 72v ebike speed controller on aliexpress for around 100usd. I just ordered one so will put up a video of what it's like when I get it
I ordered a 36v 20 ah lithium battery befor months.
It didn't deliver it ant respond
Hey mate great build what voltage is it running at now
Does such a Controller work sensorless without using the Hall sensors?
Hi there, just popping by to see if anyone can help. I've purchased a 250w e bike conversion kit. Currently I'm getting the 03 info pas error code. Everything else apart from motor seems to be working, any ideas?
haha ripping on that little track above Harry shaw way!! Great conversion, keen to do something similar cheers for the info!
why bike is 5kW but motor is 1.5kW?
You might wanne wand the contact with the motor for netter Heat transfer
That’s where I just got 12 pairs of brake pads for my aventon level only site that has correct ones by pic!, took about 20 days to get but I got 12 pairs for about 21 dollars the same price as the bike shop charges for one pair normal price
Hello. I have already built a massive 48V battery for this kit and I wouldn't want to build a new one for increased voltage. Do you think there will be benefits just by doing the higher current mod?
Also, could you please tell me how many magnets does this motor have? I seem to have wrong settings in my bike computer... I don't know what number to put in the P1 setting... (kt-lcd3 is the display/computer)
I also don't know what to do with the P2 setting :"D
More speed? Drop the hub motor and go mid. 5spd igh. By by sur ron.
This is the stealth model, the hub motors are so quiet but yes I have a 6kw cyclone kit I am installing on a kona stink e. Very excited to see how it performs
Hi ! I recently bought a wheel of this type, I did everything as you did. But the wheel turns in the opposite direction. What do you suggest I do with it? Thx G.
Reverse any 2 of the motors 3 power wires.
Now that's an extreme mod, I like :)
How fast did you get it up to you never mentioned that? Also could I do the same with a 350w kit to test the theory try get 350w to 1kw atleast I already have a 1kw bike but it’s for work
I have absolutely no experience with electronic stuff but I’m wondering if this is beginner friendly? I would like to build my own bike tbh
If you have tools, you can do this
What battery did you use after the mod?
Very impressive and I learned a few things. Never heard of statorade and the hub sinks are very cool.
what is your top speed on flats?
Thank you, on the 15s (54v) battery I'm running it on at the moment I get 55kph top speed but on 18s it goes 65kph. Next I will cut up the frame to make a new battery box for a bigger battery
My ebike will hit 63kmh 52v bafang bbs02b with pirelli fast rolling tires , but i doubt it would be anywhere near this level of performance.
@@jd-dc that seems lower than it should be, make sure you don’t have any bottle necks or your battery limiting current
@@Louis-lu5wh yes you could be right, I'm using 8awg and xt90 connectors down to the 12awg cables on the esc so I could upgrade those, but the speed is also determined by the amount of winds on the motor and the diameter of the tire. The more turns around the stator will increase torque and decrease top speed and vice versa
@@jd-dc also voltage negates top speed as well. Amps equals acceleration. Voltage equals speed(rpm)
How big a battery pack to you build? I love this build and I'm keen to buy a suitably sized battery pack.
Great vid what size hub sinks did you use
Thank you, I used the 205 hubsinks
If the controller can put out 80 amps, what does the battery need to be to get the performance increase?
@King Rafael cool. Thank you. So, oversize the battery for long life. I just built a Samsung 20s5p with a Daly 80amp BMS but the cells are rated for 175amp constant, 200 peak. I spent a lot of money in this pack and didn't want to kill them early.
hey do you know if there is a hub motor kit for BMX bikes??
Hi what batteries are you using
What's the distance you can travel on full charge
what is the top range of that now?
I haven't done a max range test because I can't stop myself riding hard lol but on a hilly off road ride with not much peddling at all, I usually get between 10 and 15kms on that 15s 12ah set up in the video
I have done before but finally burnt mine out after a few months how long did urs last?
So far I have been riding it like this for 15 months but the first 2 months it was on a 20 inch wheel. I did notice the hub motor getting hot which is why I decided to install the hub sinks. This KS brand motor (qs rip off) I used seems very solid
Your a legend 👏...please can you tell me were to find the road legal 500w stiker..as I was looking yestoday on line ..to no success. Only found 250w ..wich I won't get away with
What battery are you using in the video
How fast does it get???
do the stickers work , should have been 250 for uk .
Keep them videos cooming 👍🏽😁
Why the ferrofluid?
I was going to ask where can you get stickers like that, then I checked. They have them on aliexpress.
I have to try this with the aostirmotor s17,nice video my friend!
What does the ferro fluid do?
This work on a voilamart hub motor?
Yes
Can the same thing be done for a mid drive setup?
Yes it can but the kit from this video has a large motor and controller for 1500w which may or may not be the case with your set up so try not to over do it right away and make sure you monitor the heat until you know how much it can handle. Most mid drives have heat sinks already but you cam add statorade to help with the cooling.
I have a video coming out in the next couple of months on a 6kw cyclone mid drive kit that was pretty cheap. It's going on a 2010 kona stinky, I will add links and a ride review also
Those damn fins are too expensive are they really necessary
How is the motor currently?
I didn't understand what this modification is for, can it also be done on a scooter? Are there any risks of breaking something?
It is to increase power, yes you can over heat the components by doing this so be careful
@@jd-dc My control unit is outside so it takes air and the engine, how can I understand if it gets too hot, but making this change decreases the autonomy
NIce work on the shunt ! :D
Thank you, it's crazy how much this controller can handle
By how much does the shunt mod decrease range?
significantly.
what do you mean, how high is the additional consumption when the thing suddenly consumes 5000 watts instead of 1500?
Bro how are you filming yourself riding the bike? the camera turns and everything 👍
Is it OK to do drops and jumps etc with a massive hub motor?
outside 30c inside 100c,inside temp sensor is a must.