How To Repair Damaged / Missing PCB Pads || 4 Great Methods
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- Опубліковано 11 гру 2021
- How to repair damaged / missing PCB pads is a nice , clear soldering tutorial showing 4 Great methods to fix your PCB pad damage.
From easy to harder there is a method here for everyone to help you over your board issues .
With clear photographs after every stage this tutorial should help you along the way to get your boards up and running again .
If you find this video of use please consider my other soldering postings on UA-cam showing all kinds of soldering issues and don't forget to subscribe so you don't miss out on any future releases.
Thank you for your time and good luck with your soldering projects 👍
#pcbpadrepair #pthpadrepair - Наука та технологія
As an amateur i thank you very much i managed to solder my UM300 pedal potentiometers with the wire method you taught me!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . I'm glad you found the video of use and that you fixed your problem , that's great to hear . Thank you again for your support , take care 👍
Brilliant. I don't know why I never thought of transplanting a solder pad myself. Thanks for sharing your trade secrets... I will never fear losing a solder pad again!
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video , hopefully it can help a few people . Thanks for your support , take care 👍
Man, thank you so much for making this. I’ve had an old Marshall guitar amp kicking around for years because the ring around one of the input Jack contacts broke off. I never threw it out because I figured there was a way to fix it. Well now I know how, thanks to you, and I’m gonna give it a go tomorrow. Cheers from a new subscriber in New Jersey.
Hi , thank you for your support, much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and hopefully it can help you fix your problem . I'm sure you will be ok . I always add soldering fixes , advice etc to my UA-cam channel when I get some time so there will be more in the near future . Thanks again and good luck with your fix , take care 👍
how'd it go?
Chipping off the donut caused physical pain to myself but I couldn't turn away. Rip sacrificial donut.
Your videos have helped me out tremendously, but I swear you are a magician and hope my work can one day get to 50% of what you are able to conjure up. Thank you!
Hi , thank you for your kind words , very much appreciated . Hopefully my channel can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues . I just like to share what I've learnt over the years . Practice and more practice and we can all get better . Once you get to know about different size solder thicknesses , flux , iron tips and tools you will definitely improve and find yourself getting more confident , then you can do harder and harder jobs . Thanks again , take care 👍
I watched this video a while ago, and pulled it up again as reference; thanks. What I really wish for, though, is for someone to manufacture reasonably priced replacement through-hole pads, as the ones available online usually surpass the value of the hardware I'm trying to fix in the first place. It's still great to have several options to mend otherwise perfectly good hardware, though.
All of the methods you've shown are great for vintage and modern electronics. Keeping the board looking nice and neat is the right way to repair a circuit board.
You've got a New Subcriber !
Hi , thank you for your comment + subscribing , much appreciated. I'm glad you appreciate the methods 👍
This is exactly what I have been looking for! Thanks for sharing your knowledge again! Love your channel.
Hi , thank you for your comment and for supporting my channel , much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoy the videos. I will post more when I can and hopefully they will be useful to a few people as well . Thanks again 👍
Thanks for making this! Trying to create a tape delay guitar rack using a cassette tape player and the contact to the motor fell off on soldering in a potentiometer for speed and pitch control
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . I hope you get on ok with all of your soldering projects, thanks again 👍
This is brilliant! I foresee a couple more LEDs working on my pedalboaed! Thanks a ton for sharing what has undoubtedly cost you time and monry to learn.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I'm happy to pass on what I've learnt , hopefully I can help a few people out with the videos I post on UA-cam. Thanks again and good luck with all of your soldering projects in the future, take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 do you have any suggestions if you've lost the 'tunnel' as well as the pad?
Hi . If your board is just double sided ( no inner layers ) you can buy a useful item called a PCB eyelet. They are like rivets , available in different sizes they simply push through the hole your trying to fix then you shape the other side to make a tight fitting eyelet . You can buy a special kit including eyelets , shaping tools etc , this may be of use to you , Google it easy to find.
If your board has inner layers it's a different matter as you may need to connect the inner layers elsewhere on the surface of the board ( schematics required . Hope that helps 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thanks a bunch. I've never heard of this!
Hi , no problem, hope you get on ok 👍
First joint was amazing the way it just flowed in. Nice work.
Hi , thank you . If the barrel of the hole is still in place and with the use of rework flux you will always have a very good chance of achieving exactly what I have here . FLUX is the key thing in this particular pad fix , it's vital .You may have seen it but I've posted a complete video on UA-cam showing the benefits of using flux . Thanks again for your support 👍
Thank you very much for showing me/us how to do a proper fix on pads!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting, much appreciated. Hopefully these methods can help a few people fix their damaged pads . Thanks again, take care 👍
Fantastic. I have a pinball circuit board with missing pads. This was the first video that came up in the search and lucky for me. thanks for a very straightforward method.
Hi , thank you for your comment. I hope you get on ok with your soldering project , hopefully the video can help you a little. Thanks again, take care 👍
You can't beat being in Blighty doing a bit of soldering whilst it's pissing down with rain 😁 As Dell boy would say very cushty work
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. I agree , I quite like soldering with the sound of rain coming down , thanks again for your support 👍
Wow! What an awesome board repair video!
If anyone appreciates this or actually uses this to help with your own repiar, make sure to support awesome people like this, by completely watching the ad vids. That way the poster makes a little money off the ads.
Thanks again for this great teaching video. 👍
Edit - I also subscribed 😁👍
Hi , thank you for your comment and support , very much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoy the videos and hopefully find them useful .
I've tried to improve them as I've gone along and I will put more up when I find some time ( always seem to be busy )
Anyway thanks again for your time and good luck with all of your soldering projects 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 I know it takes a lot of time to make vids like this. From filming them at awkward angles for you while you're trying to work and teach so everyone can see clearly, to producing and editing the video down to post them up. That's a lot of time. That's why I encourage everyone to watch the ads in their entirety. Help get great people like yourself a little money for all the trouble.
Thanks again. Definitely a subscriber and have a great rest of your week. 😊
Hi , thank you so much for your kind words . Your right it does take a while to film , edit etc that's why I'm not a massive content poster ( I just wouldn't have time to upload lots per week ) , I just like to post in my own time whenever that may be. I do admire regular posters because they must put the hours in.
I'm glad people seem to enjoy the videos so I will always keep posting while they are enjoyed and hopefully I can help a few people out along the way with their soldering questions.
Thanks again for everything and good luck with all of your soldering projects 👍
Just great!. Since i found this channel all my work has become easier. Thank you so much.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I'm glad the videos have helped you with your soldering, that's great news . If I can help a few people out then I'm happy. Good luck with all of your soldering projects in the future and thank you for supporting my channel, take care 👍
You have made this look very easy! Thanks for the great video.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated . I have had many years of practice I guess , in the end it does get a lot easier . Thanks again for your time , take care 👍
Is is great but can you please do a repair video demonstrating on if you’ve got a missing barrel? Thanks
Wonderful vid. #2 was a huge help!!!
Hi , thank you for your comment, very much appreciated. If the video can help a few people out with their soldering issues then I'm happy . Thanks again , take care 👍
WOW! Well done, excellent job!! 😀
Hi thank you for your support , much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoyed the video 👍
You make it look so easy, great video
Hi , thank you for your support , much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoyed the video 👍
Excellent. You are great at this!
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video , hopefully it can help a few people out 👍
Wow so good to watch, I have an amp that has pcb with missing pads. I’ll give this a try!
Hi , thank you. Hopefully one of these methods can help you fix your PCB problem . Good luck with your projects and thanks again for watching 👍
It worked perfectly, thank you and greetings from Chile.
Hi , thank you for your support, much appreciated. I'm glad the video was useful for you . Thanks again , take care 👍
Awesome videos! I’m going to definitely try this to fix my mortal kombat sound board! Keep up the good work 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment and for watching the video's, much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoy the videos , if they help a few people out then I'm happy 👍
Excellent job, thanks for sharing.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoy the videos , hopefully they can help a few people out with their soldering. / Desoldering issues. Thanks again for your support , take care 👍
Thanks for the video, there not enough people taking time to fix broken traces but for an expensive keeb that I broke a barreling on the trace I’m going to try method 2 seems like a great idea
Hi , thank you for your comment, hopefully the video can help a few people out with their pad repairs . Good luck with all your soldering projects and thanks again 👍
Excellent job!
Hi , thank you for your support , I'm glad you enjoyed the video . I will post brand new videos in the near future . Thanks again 👍
Awesome man! Thanks a bunch for showing us how to do a good job repairing pads. I haven't had to do this yet and always wondered how a replacement pad would actually stick to the pcb. My major problem is seeing what I'm doing. I really need to buy one of those microscopes with the LCD screen. 🥂
Hi , thank you for your support, much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoy the videos 👍
I use a pair of jeweller's/watchmaker's glasses, but they're addmittedly not ideal. The ones I own require you to get rather close in order for your subject to be in focus, and this can sometimes cause problems lining up the soldering iron. I've melted portions of the glasses on multiple occassions. Plus, I look pretty silly hovering inches above my workbench. LOL.
Thank you! I thought my PCB was doomed but I was able to fix it with the first method
You are amazing. Thank you so much for making these videos.
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , very much appreciated . If I can help a few people then I'm happy . Thanks again , take care 👍
Awesome. Thanks for sharing.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated 👍
Very nice work, that gave me some ideas for some boards!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video 👍
Awesome information mate thank you
Hi , thank you, I'm glad you found the video useful . Thanks for your support of my channel , take care 👍
lovely and enlightening video. ❤👍
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Hopefully it can help a few people out with their soldering issues. Thanks again , take care 👍
Great video, thanks for sharing.
I'd be interested to know how to proceed in case the barrel is missing/pulled.
Hi , thank you for your comment . If your board is just double sided ( no inner layers you can purchase an item called a PCB eyelet . Different sizes are available online , they are like a rivet . Just push the eyelets through the missing barrel position and there's a tool to shape the end that pushes through . This creates the same outcome pretty much as the original would have been .
If your board has inner layers this eyelet option will be no use . You will need to try and get the board schematics and recreate the inner connections externally. This isn't always possible but can be done at times . Hope that helps . Thanks again 👍
You can only do a barrel repair if your PCB has top and bottom layers only, but if it's a multilayer then it cannot be repaired because each layer has to make contact with the barrel, and even if you replaced the barrel of a multilayer PCB, you'll need to X-ray it to see if all contacts are made, and that costs a lot of money.
Thanks, very useful for me because I made a lot of PCB damage
Hi , thank you for watching the video , I'm glad you found it useful . Hopefully you can fix your problems , good luck 🤞👍
The quality and clarity of your videos is unmatched and has massively improved the quality of my own repairs!
Would you be able to show us a good method for entire barrel repairs please?
You can only do a barrel repair if your PCB has top and bottom layers only, but if it's a multilayer then it cannot be repaired because each layer has to make contact with the barrel, and even if you replaced the barrel of a multilayer PCB, you'll need to X-ray it to see if all contacts are made, and that costs a lot of money.
Great stuff you got there mate! You gained a like and a subscriber!:)
Hi , thank you for your support , much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoy the videos , I will always post more when I can to hopefully help a few people sort their soldering problems out . Thanks again , and good luck with all your soldering projects 👍
Wow, u make it look so easy
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated 👍
This is what I have been looking for thanks for sharing❤🎉
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . I'm glad the video was of use , that's great to hear . Thanks again , take care 👍
Cool video, well done, thank you for sharing it with us :)
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated 👍
I work a lot with 50s-70s PCBs that are so fragile and worn that attempting any part replacement usually leads to lifted pads and traces no matter how careful I am. I have always resorted to atrocious looking bodge wires all over the place to resolve it, but have been searching for better alternatives for more proper repair. This video is great. I know some have used tiny eyelets on old PCBs successfully, obtaining them of proper size can be pretty tricky or expensive though. I have wondered how effective the "conductive pens" are at redrawing torn traces on PCBs.
Conductive pens are trash. I’ve purchased a handful of them from MG Chemicals and the like and I haven’t found a single product that actually worked. If anyone knows of one that does, I’d love to know about it.
Great illustration of a most technical electrical repair. Its a pity customers don't see first hand, the ingenuous technicality skill of it. Cheers..
Hi , thank you for your comment , very much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoyed the video 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 I actually have a repair like this to perform on a battery charger circuit board. Luckily I have the separated pad, which I plan to glue back, then connect to trace. Thanks again.
Hi , no problem , I hope you can fix your problem . Good luck and thank you again for your support 👍
Very cool tips. I'm going through all your videos, lots of good tips. You got another subscriber. Thanks for taking the time and sharing!
When you perform the first 2 tips on this video, are they also electrically connected (solder inside the barrel)? I know it is a silly question (I know that mechanically it is secured), the question is connected to the situation I describe below.
I've learned how to perform soldering in the last 2 years, mostly to recap old eletronics and get them back into working conditions. I've done that to 2 Xbox Classic (mainboards and power supplies), 2 Apple IIe power supplies, an APC Nobreak Mainboard and some Retro PC motherboards - 2 of them recently (ABIT and Epox brands). I normally add new solder on the old capacitors before removing them, tried 2 different ways: a big blob of solder, then heat both terminals at the same time, pull the old capacitor and later remove the old solder (with a Hakko Desoldering Pump) or adding solder and just suck all solder with the Hakko pump.
On these 2 PCs, I had issues on roughly 10-15% while soldering new capacitors (PTH) : the solder won't stick to the PCB pad (circular). I'm using good quality flux and solder (63/37), and have no idea why this happens. The pad is still there, I cannot see a mechanical damage - I can only suppose the superficial layer is gone and there is nothing for the solder to adhere. I've been luck so far as there are other solder point nearby (I've always checked that they are connected), I got around it but soldering a jumper to them. It worked in all cases, but I'm afraid at some point there will be a case when I don't have this possibility.
Would the first 2 tips you have shown us be an alternative to this situation? On the situation I've described above, I tried to flow solder into the barrel and even so, everything was moving afterwards by just touching it - so no solder adherence to the barrel.
Keep up the good work man
Hi , thank you for your support . I will be posting brand new content in the near future , all the best 👍
I think I saw this before.. the new music reminds me of REWA. Great videos!
Hi , thank you . Your right , I posted this video about 1 year ago , but I've just found a way of editing all my filming on the same device it was filmed on ( I'm not great at this sort of stuff , but I'm learning ), therefore getting a much better picture clarity , that's mainly why I've reposted the video .
I've cleaned up another few the same way but I will keep posting brand new material ( obviously with a better clarity than before )when I can . Thanks again for your support , much appreciated 👍
Great presentation.
Hi , thank you for your comment , very much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video , hopefully these methods can help a few people out with their PCB problems. I've got many other postings on UA-cam showing different soldering aspects so I hope these can be of use to people as well . Thanks again for your support 👍
Absolutely fantastic video very interesting and informative indeed thanks for sharing your methods new sub here
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it useful. I will be posting more brand new videos when I can and also I will repost a few of my older ones with better picture clarity on them than the originals. Thanks again 👍
Fantastic, Thanks for getting me out of a jam
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. I'm glad the video was useful for you , that's great to hear . Thanks again , take care 👍
Enjoyed watching you dexterity and skill great hand eye coordination
Hi , thank you for your comment, very much appreciated. Hopefully I can help a few people out with their soldering and encouraging them to have a go , if so , then I'm happy . Thanks again , take care 👍
Excellent video. I was replacing a Xbox controller joystick and thankfully the pad I burnt off was just for holding.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. Hopefully the video can help a few people out with their soldering issues. Thanks again , take care 👍
Good job 👏
Hi , thank you for your comment 👍 I wil be posting brand new content in the near future , thanks again for watching .
Great video! Could you tell us exactly what flux you are using?
Great vid, learned a lot. I usually run a soft wire around the pin and make it connect with the trace I scratched to expose the copper.
Hi , thank you for your comment. The way you have mentioned is a perfectly good way to fix the problem . I used to have to do " invisible fixes , which I why I would remove the pad from one board and place on another " . This really was a great method for me personally, but I put the other methods up to give people a few choices . Hopefully they can select one that helps them . Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 you definitely have a much higher level than I do in soldering and stuff.
Keep posting new videos and tips please 😋
Take care !
Hi , with practice and patience you will definitely improve . It's how I improved over the years , I learnt the correct tools and solders etc for each job , but I do some jobs different to the normal ways your told to , it's good to be different and I think it enables you to achieve greater goals than you normally can . Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 amen 👍
For sure I need more practice but o don’t have much time to do it. Work and 3 kids don’t let me free time that much haha
Anyway now if I have any doubts I’ll check one of your videos 👍
Hi , i to struggle with spare time , that's why I don't post that many videos compared to some people who put about 10 a week on . Its hard so I say good luck to them for all their effort. Thanks again for all your support and hopefully I can help you out in the future with a new video ( when I get time ) take care 👍
I'm grateful because I think I'm maybe half-way closer to filling in some gaps in my knowledge after watching this. I watch so many repair videos and they always talk about "lifting pads" but this is the first time I've actually seen one up close.
However I'm still confused as to what a "pad" is, because in the original setup, before any repairs, it seems like all the exposed areas are still bare metal, and the pads and traces are being added on top of that metal. If that's true, and there's already metal in place to conduct the electricity around the board, then what are the pads for? An extra layer on top of the PCB copper? Something that wicks solder more easily? Basically I'm still confused as to why the metal within the PCB isn't enough, and why a missing/broken pad means a loss of connectivity, when it seems like you could simply solder to the metal that's already under the pad.
Thank you for this video! For the wire you are using, what is it called? Like if I’m ordering on Amazon or getting in micro center, what am I looking for?
I’m just starting out with soldering and I’m fixing an Xbox c series controller. I’m completely replacing the mechanical joycons. While removing the old ones I damaged the pads and a barrel, so trying to fix that now. Also buying new barrels.
Awesome video, you’re so good at soldering. I have a question? I have some pads that are damaged, I dropped flux on them and tried to apply solder to them, but the solder will not flow to the flux. It doesn’t work at all, it just stays stuck to the iron. Any advice?
awesome!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting, much appreciated 👍
very good camera work
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it useful . Thanks again 👍
Absolutely fascinating! Brain surgery looks easy after that. May I ask what camera / microscope you use? Please don't be too long making further videos, I'm hooked! Many thanks.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. I just use a stereo long reach microscope from GT Vision ( there own brand , mid range one ) but it is very good , but I don't use a microscope camera . I simply attach a macro lens to my phone camera and film it through that . This gives me different angles from the normal ones. So nothing special really. I have reposted some of my previous video's as I now have a way of getting better picture clarity. I will post more brand new ones as soon as I get some time . Thanks again 👍
Can u link ur microscope ? I want to buy one
nice one!
Hi , thank you. Hopefully people can fix their boards using some of these methods . Thanks again , take care 👍
Brilliant.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. Glad you found the video enjoyable , hopefully these methods can help a few people out with their damaged boards . Thanks again , take care 👍
Thank you
Hi , thank you for your support. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck with all your soldering projects and thanks again 👍
Thx great Video😍
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated 👍
To keep rework time to a minimum I have been using the "wire pad" method to repair damaged or missing pad eyes. I use non-tarnish silver coated artistic wire available through such places as Amazon.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I'm glad you have found a good method that works for you , that's great . Thanks again , take care 👍
You said you want that space between the transplanted pad and pin, but how do you keep the resistor/pins so steady when transplanting the pad? What's holding your board/ resistor pins? Thank you for the video and your time!
Great video! Excellent job! How the new pads from methods 1 and 4 stick in the PCB? I know the pads stick to the pins by the solder, but how the pads / pins will stick to the PCB? Thanks!
I just watched this video. Its really informative about repairing circuit traces. I don't believe the traces are in any way re-attached to the board, but they have great appearance and good functionality until someone reheats the solder at a later time. I have used all sorts of glues for repairing things and intend to look for a glue or a way to re-attach circuit traces to the board.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. I just wanted to show people clearly how they could fix their pads etc and didn't glue down as I usually would as the joints , traces etc wouldn't have been as clear . I've done a few videos where I use tak Pak glue to secure wires down . This is a fairly weak glue but good for the purpose I've just mentioned . For more secure methods there's solder mask , twin pack araldites or extreme strength scothcast 10. I'm pretty sure when people fix their pads etc they would probably choose an appropriate glue for the task . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Great video this is really helpful, can i ask what flux you are using and how it is packaged? Also what are you using to apply it, couldn’t quite make out what that was? 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. The flux I use is called SMFL200D , comes in a spray can , 200ml. Places to purchase , price , how you use it etc , are all shown in one of my other UA-cam postings, all about flux , this may help you . Thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Brilliant!!, many thanks for the info I will take a look at the video.
This video is amazing! Is there a certain size wire to use for the first option?
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting . The wire I would try and use in these situations is generally about 28 or 30 gauge single core . I sometimes use thicker . I just try and use a wire that matches what the pad would have been originally . Thanks again , take care 👍
Great video. What do you use to clean the board so nicely? What is the white material you clean with?
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. The fluid I normally use is called Ultrasolve and the cleaning clothes are called Gtek dry wipes from a company called Grove sales ( England ) hope that helps . I've done a complete video on UA-cam showing the methods I use to clean my boards . Thanks again 👍
Is there a way I can contact you and send you an image because I damaged my controller when soldering it and one if the pin holes got damaged similar to how yours are where they lost the green masking and not being able to stick to the solder
Thanks for the video as I'm trying to fix a poor de-soldering job I did as a beginner. One quick question re: top right and bottom right pads: Do they electrically connect to a trace somewhere? I heard you say make sure not to bridge across that darker green outside ring. Are you recreating those pads for more integrity to hold the component in only? Just trying to get my head around circuit board design.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. Yes you are right those 2 pads were only replaced for added strength , the connection from those 2 is on the other side of the PCB. Good luck with all of your soldering projects in the future, thanks again 👍
In the first part of the video what type of wire do you use ? Just any awg resistor lead ? I messed up some pads lol
Awesome
Hi , thank you for your support, I'm glad you enjoyed the video 👍
Fantastic! Hey I’m not really using flux in my basic pcb projects. Do you use it when you are initially soldering or just when you are realising like this. Also, I note that you ‘prelode’ the iron with solder. Do you always solder like that?
Thanks!!!
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. Personally when I do any kind of soldering I would always add a small amount of flux to the desired area. People argue that solder has flux inside it but this gets burned off too quick so producing solder spikes , poor joints etc .
So yes I always add flux.
Moving on to the pre loading my iron tip this is something that I tend to always do as well . It just means you can control the part of the iron tip that you need and speeds up the soldering process also making the soldering really easy.
Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
What kind of wire would I need if I wanted to attempt the first method?
Back in the day PACE used to supply replacement track and pads. We did however use epoxy to fix the pads down. Not sure if you can buy them today as PCBs are much cheaper.
Hi , you can buy replacement kits these days but I generally just make my own pads by removing them from scrap pcb's . I guess the average DIY'er probably doesn't want to spend money on repair kits so might as well try what I do. I show pad replacements in other postings that I've done . Thanks again , good luck 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 I remember those kits from pace costing a few hundred pounds back in the day but the boards I was working on were in the tens of thousands of pounds. Great video thanks for sharing.
And how does Conductive Paste work in these cases, and did you make the pads with wire or solder tin?
Nice video, what microscope camera you use ?
Hi , thank you for your comment. I simply use a macro lens attached to a mobile phone camera , nothing special but you can get different angles like this rather than from directly above if using a microscope camera. Hope that helps 👍
When working on vintage electronics it's very easy to rip pads sadly. One of the ways I "fixed" a lifted pad that went to ground was to bend the lead of the new component and solder it to a nearby pad that served as the connection to ground for a capacitor. Would this affect the capacitor or circuit in general?
Would soldering some copper wire around the through hole trace work too?
Hi , yes it would . Actually one of these methods uses a piece of tin copper wire around the pin then joining to the trace.
Thank you for your comment , take care 👍
I fried some pads trying to remove old solder from them. Will either of the first 2 methods work for something like that? Or am I out of luck. I am a complete beginner by the way. it looks like the pads on your board, before fixing them, look a lot better than what I am dealing with.
Thanks in advance.
Hi , thank you for your comment . As long as the barrel going through the board ( one side to the other ) is still all there you should be ok . Some boards occasionally have tiny hidden vias that are attached to other points on the pads but probably not in your case as these are on surface mount component pads . So if you have the metal barrels in place you will be able to fix it using one of these methods . Hope that helps , thanks again and good luck 👍
What size wire did you use for method #1?
Hey Mr SolderFix, desperately need your help. I tried repairing a wired-control for an adjustable bed, totally bodged it up (not a pretty sight), but it did work for about 6 months. Now, two out of six wires have detached, the other four wires look a bit flaky, and the veins/channels/arteries on the circuit board look slightly damaged. Can I send you a photo of the circuit board and wire connections? Thanks in advance!
Hello! This was a great video. I was wondering for the first method where can I get that wire from or what is it called?
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. The first method , I just used simply a cut off leg from a through hole resistor , but if you haven't got any of these just use tin copper wire . This would have been roughly 24 swg tin copper wire. The really thin wire I used later on was called Kynar wire and is 30 swg. Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 thanks for responding! Not many people cover this topic and I made some mistakes due to me rushing some work. I’ll make sure to check out your other videos as well
Hi , no problem . As I've posted more and more videos my quality has got better so my early videos were ok but I personally think I've learnt how to get them better as times gone on , so I hope the viewers can see I'm trying to improve. Thanks again for your comments and good luck with your projects 👍
I have damaged 2 pads on a pcb that an eeprom sat on i removed,how do i replace the pads??I take it they will have to be glued on as there isn't a pin/leg to keep it there on the board??Thanks.
What material is the wire you use? Thank you very much for the great contribution.
Hi. Thank you for your comment , much appreciated . The wire I used in this video was called Kynar wire . It's a 30 gauge sleeved single core wire , great for PCB repairs , modifications etc and it's available in many different colours. Places that sell it are Farnell , RS Components , Rapid Online , if in America try Mouser or Digikey , also other electronic distributers will probably have some . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you very much Mr SolderFix, your information has been very helpful. A warm hug from Chile!
Hi , no problem .Thank you again for your support and good luck with all your soldering projects 👍
Wonderful video !! Please tell me the type of flux you're using and where to buy it. I'm only familiar with paste flux. Thanks so much.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I've always used a flux called SMFL200D which was a really great flux. Unfortunately only recently this flux has become discontinued so I'm currently looking for a decent alternative.
I've got a few samples coming so if I find one that's pretty good I will post on UA-cam about it . Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thanks so much !
yup,work for me if it big pcb for some micro pcb ill buy new or used
do you think these methods would work for a smaller component like a resistor?
Hi . Yes definitely , I've repaired smaller through hole pads and surface mount pads ( smd pad replacement down to 0402 size ) .
These are just examples but you can go smaller than these , just follow the same procedures. For smd pads I've done a couple of UA-cam postings where I've showed smd pad replacements . No matter what size pad , just do the same procedure and you should be ok . Thanks for watching 👍
Do you not glue or something else to stick the pads down?
Cool video. But my problem is not in this vid unfortunately. My pcb lost the whole barrel with the pads. Will any of these methods be able to fix it?
Cheers
Hi , thank you for watching the video , much appreciated.
If your board is only double sided ( i.e it has no inner layers ) you can simply solder a small wire on the top trace near the missing barrel and run it through the hole then solder on the underneath trace where it should be joined to . Just scrape the resist of the 2 traces to allow the solder to join ( use flux ) , on the top and bottom layers and join them together with a small solder joint.í
If your board is multilayered then it's more difficult as you need the schematics of the board to work out what's joined to what.
Hope that helps , good luck 👍
Hi sir.. i broke the pads but my pads had barrels as well..those connected to lower and lowers conected with uper side of pcb .. so can u tell me what should i do now.. how i make barrels? And contact with pads? Thxs
Hi Sir. I have try to take out capacitor from pcb. Its come out with copper around one of its leg. Can i fix the pad hole by put back the copper? And may i know what im doing wrong that cause the copper pull out together?
SKILLS!!!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
I got an old pcb from a 50 years old radio and the green stuff is missing so some hole got shorted ... is there any way to put an insulating stuff on the board so the two holes are now isolated???
Thanks
Hi , thank you for your comment. The stuff you can put on your PCB is called solder mask . It comes in a small syringe , various sizes just apply some where desired straight from the tube or apply on the end of a small wooden cocktail stick for example . You then need to cure this stuff with a small hand held UV torch , all available cheaply on line from various places. Dries rock hard and will give you good protection .Good luck 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 thanks, I'll give it a try
Hi , no problem , good luck 👍
from where u can get trace pads ?
Quality..
Hi , thank you for your comment much appreciated. Hopefully the video can help a few people out 👍
What kind of wire did you use for the fourth solder?
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. The wire I used for the 4th pad repair was called Kynar wire . It's a 30 gauge , single core wire that comes sleeved . I just use the inner core for narrow tracks as in this case , I try and match any width track with a suitable width wire ( very important . Kynar is available from Farnell , RS Components and plenty of other places on line . I use it a lot for PCB modifications etc , comes in all colour sleevings. Hope that helps , thanks again 👍