I know this might sound stupid, but it would have been super useful to see you measuring the cap with the multimeter to check that your repair had worked. I know how to test for continuity and for voltage readings, but I have no idea with testing caps. But regardless, a great video.
Good thought - Basically in the video I mostly was checking for a short to ground. It's not quite what this repair called for, that footnote about it, but I left the footage in mostly to show how things... "looked" now, more or less. Here's some capacitor troubleshooting tips I took from another of my replies to a comment on this video: Sometimes you need to take the capacitor off to fully test. But a simple test you can do is to put your meter in continuity mode and probe either side of the cap on the board. This won't necessarily tell you if that cap is bad, but it will let you know if there is a short to ground somewhere that you need to find. To fully test a capacitor though, for a short, if it's open (also a failure), or for the proper capacitance, you need to remove it from the board first. Also, you can get bad readings from testing any component while it is on a board still, resistors especially, so it's always best to remove them if you're not sure. Cheers, and I hope this helps! 🙂👍🏻
@@KyleAwsm Definitely, I appreciate that testing caps and points could be a whole separate video in itself, I just wondered what it was you were testing to ascertain there were no further issues, but you've cleared that up. Many thanks.
I can’t believe that I was searching “how to fix SMD pad” and you just made a video on how to fix EXACTLY the same board I’m working on and EXACTLY the capacitor same pad that broke on me. Haha! But in my case, both pads broke cause of oxidation. Thanks for the video!
That sounds like a recall. I wonder how many more of these were thrown away because of this problem. Hopefully they rework the board to avoid this problem in the future….👍
THANK YOU for actually mentioning proper temperatures for soldering! I've been trying to educate myself on how-to's for soldering [with the intent of game console repairs) and so many videos just go "yup, turn on the iron, tin, and go" but for someone totally new to the process, knowing estimated temperatures to start from will not only extend the life of the tool/machine but possibly prevents early frustration/mistakes in the learning process and ACCIDENTS.
Temperature is variable. Small components, small traces, lower temps. But if you have large components or a ground plane temperatures will be higher. Start low and adjust up as needed.
I literally destroyed that same pad on my gbc removing the capacitor to bypass it for an amp mod and this video could not have been more helpful! Saved me a ton of time and stress and I learned a couple of valuable lessons. Thank you!
I found this video by looking up how to repair circuit board pads , and coincidentally the C38 on Gameboy color is what I need to repair , awesome video
FPV drones Cetus Pro kit Tattu 1s batteries This hobby will become an obsession for you if you like stuff like this. Thanks for your help man. I’m flying an IFlight Nazgul v3
It is also worth noting that in some cases, you can solder a small wire in place of a trace. If you follow the trace back to its source. You can solder a small wire to the source solder point, and the other end of the wire to the part that needs soldered
@MajinGouken 99% of electronics are covered and unexposed. Besides, I'd rather have something look a little awkward I'd it means it still works and I don't have to buy another part
Thanks for the instructional video. I have some pad repair for a customers laptop. They tried to remove the SMD bios chip with a hot air gun and tweezer. They pulled too soon and too hard and ripped the chip off.......pads and all.
Thanks for this video, was installing a new wire for my thinkpad charger and messed up the terminals with too much heat (i prefer replacing the wires on original laptop chargers instead of gambling with a potential knock off). This video is a life saver
Can't say "thank you" enough for your smart move! That helped fixing my Super Famicom (SNES) that the surface mount of a video SMD capacitor was broken! Thank you!
Thank you so much 🙏. I’m building a neopixel lightsaber. And I burnt off one of the solder pads on the switch pcb. I was stressing over what to do until I saw this video.
Hopefully this works! I have an fpv drone remote transmitter that i accidently dropped and busted out the micro usb plug. I lost two of the 5 traces and I managed to scratch away the green film and found the copper. Now I'll try to Soder it tomorrow!
Great video!! Is there a chance that you do a video on how to repair a broken solder pad on the power switch of a gameboy color? Damaged them and i cant repair them. Thanks for the video!
two questions: 1) how do you know where the trace is to be exposed with the grinding method? 2) could you have put solder where the old pad was on the left and solder back the capacitor on top of it?
#2 no chance, the solder would have nowhere to adhere to, the silicone wafer board is just meant to hold the copper traces in place. He could have just used a jumper wire, but in this case he had plenty of space to rotate the cap. However, most times you don't have this much space to work with.
Im trying to repair my sons switch charger port but i didnt add enough flux to the pins and one side of it removed but the other side didnt. I end up appying too much heat and now the solder is removed and it seems impossible for me to do but im willing
Thanks for posting. The flux under the device is pretty much stuck under the device. I believe the flux is corrosive. Would it not have been better to apply less flux to the pads with, say a toothpick?
You know about the dsi d-pad and motherboard part. The red and black wires. Do you know how to clean that part if it gets burned? Kinda having issues soldering the wires to those pins and one of them just won't stick. Any help will be great.
I just got a Gbc from ebay and it seems like c37 is missing i don't know what to do I have not much experience in soldering I don't even know if I can find a c37 online 😭
Send me a message with pictures on my Instagram and I'll see what we can do. If the pads are gone, you'll need to get a bit crafty with some solder, a thin copper sheet, and some PCB epoxy. www.kyleawsm.com
Great video, it's hard for beginners, but not impossible. Just let us know how you detected the faulty cap. , is it a common problem for GB boards? Sorry to ask, I'm kinda new to some repairs.
Hi, and thanks! Yup, it can be common on these boards, and depending on the shape they're in sometimes. Sometimes you need to take the capacitor off to fully test. But a simple test you can do is to put your meter in continuity mode and probe either side of the cap on the board. This won't necessarily tell you if that cap is bad, but it will let you know if there is a short to ground somewhere that you need to find. To fully test a capacitor though, for a short, if it's open (also a failure), or for the proper capacitance, you need to remove it from the board first. Also, you can get bad readings from testing any component whole it is on a board still, resistors especially, so it's always best to remove them if you're not sure. Cheers! Hope this helps! 🙂👍🏻
bruh, I just had a surface pad pop off of a hyper module and the only thing it left me is some micro piece of wire. No trace to scrape. (The trace might have been on the back of the board) and was able to bridge it with a glob of solder that some how miracled on to that little wire stub. and grabbed on to the cap lead. Seriously, what I did doesnt even qualify as a level1 solder, but it worked and now my hypermodule caps are replaced and it works. I pushed to hard trying to unsolder old PCB.
Hi Kyle! I have a question, I have the exact same area with a broken pad. Currently I don’t have sound in my gbc speakers. Did you restore the sound on your board after re attaching? I checked the speakers and the connection they seem fine and the headphone jack also has continuity. So I’m kind of stuck on what else I could do except the resoldering of the capacitor. Thanks in advance!
C38 is a filtering capacitor for the audio, so it could be part of the issue with no sound. Also check for continuity between pins 4 and 5 on the headphone jack though when no headphones are plugged-in. If there's no continuity, that contact is dirty and needs to be cleaned. Replace C38 and clean that contact and it should likely fix your sound problem. For further help with this, feel free to contact me via Instagram. Cheers!
KyleAwsm Thanks so much! I’ll give it a go. I’ve been working on this project for about a month now but never figured out how to bypass the pad. The video and your response really taught me something new. I’ll take you up on your offer and dm if I run into other problems. Definitely subbed to your channel!
Solder to the trace makes sense but what do you do when you rip off the pad for an ic chip that has like 30 different legs all around four edges and the square pad ripped off?
Video marker 4:24 I take a quick measurement across the capacitor just to make sure everything is KOSHER. Hahaha. We need a Rabbi to bless the circuit.
Im starting soldering now, Im 16 and I dont know how tf this works. I literally ripped some pads off of an A1474 Lightning port connector and I also cant solder normal wires together nicely.
When i watch these missing pad repair videos i always think they're going to show you how to stick on a new pad to the pcb then solder to it,but they never do?
i accidentally ripped the eject button/power button connector in my xbox and hopefully this video translates to that because a replacement motherboard costs around 400$
you dont need flux. i been soldering for 15 years without. when i do try it i notice it doenst do anything other than get the board messy. heat transfers perfectly fine without it. you just need to know how to use your tools properly.
lol my idiot self just put aluminum foil tape on it. on that bald spot.. . 1:25 and see that bit of exposed trace there,.. i put a bit led solder on it to bridge the connection to the foil. for good connection. because i cant do that sideway thing. i rip my gamesir pro tk4 mechanical switches pad.. and u cant side ways it xD the position of the buttons are crucial for the buttons to be clickable. after u put back the top casing xD .. i tried Copper Foil Tape Double Sided Conductive Adhesive too and not aluminum works well than aluminum .. because its tricky to solder on aluminum without doing the a little drop of flux and wipe it then soldering it.. method to not corrode it.. but again since im idiot i wont do this type of shit again haha only on D2LS-21 buttons.... xD
Hi Kyle, nice video! Except for... you made it seem like you were going in depth on this topic. You really got me hyping for a video of 6 minutes that show you replacing a cap on a GBC by fixing a small "simple" trace on a blurry microscope. Take your time, show us more then this. UA-cam is full of these video's with 6 minutes of explanation. and..... don't over-use the Premieres, you have 5.8K subs, not 580K subs ;-) Keep up the good work!
Thanks for your comment. I'm still getting the hang of this "premiere" feature - I've heard this from a couple others as well and I'm keeping it in mind. It would be nice to have 580k, with as hard as I work on this channel, but I know that will come in time if I keep at this. And I hear you about the video content too. More or less, when working full time plus trying to get out a video per week of good wholesome content, my work week turns into 80 hours or more. It's a lot to keep up with, and any time spent not working my job, I'm writing, filming, and editing. Though sometimes short, I do my best to make my videos professional and concise. This video alone took 20 to 30 hours from start to finish. Dislikes are disheartening to see, on any of my videos, especially after busting my butt to get good quality content out. But whether showing how to do this on a "simple" trace or otherwise, many people are now getting into electronics repair and refurbishment, and Gameboys are how they are learning and starting out. What I am trying to do is show/teach people skills that they can take into repairing other things as well so that they can broaden their horizons and do more. I hope this makes sense. Thanks for watching.
@@incandescentwithragenot even colloquially. Not even close. You people just toss words around and hope it amounts to something 🙄 that’s what happens when you’re too lazy to look up words so you just guess what they mean and carry in blindly 😂 This is how civilizations die, death by a million small cuts. You think I’m exaggerating and that’s the saddest part. Karl Marx would be very very proud of you.
@@billgates3699 I'm always impressed when someone can be so enthusiastic and confident it what they say, while being 100% wrong. Collins dictionary: "Something that is kosher is generally approved of or considered to be correct. [informal]"
I know this might sound stupid, but it would have been super useful to see you measuring the cap with the multimeter to check that your repair had worked. I know how to test for continuity and for voltage readings, but I have no idea with testing caps. But regardless, a great video.
Good thought - Basically in the video I mostly was checking for a short to ground. It's not quite what this repair called for, that footnote about it, but I left the footage in mostly to show how things... "looked" now, more or less.
Here's some capacitor troubleshooting tips I took from another of my replies to a comment on this video:
Sometimes you need to take the capacitor off to fully test. But a simple test you can do is to put your meter in continuity mode and probe either side of the cap on the board. This won't necessarily tell you if that cap is bad, but it will let you know if there is a short to ground somewhere that you need to find. To fully test a capacitor though, for a short, if it's open (also a failure), or for the proper capacitance, you need to remove it from the board first. Also, you can get bad readings from testing any component while it is on a board still, resistors especially, so it's always best to remove them if you're not sure.
Cheers, and I hope this helps! 🙂👍🏻
@@KyleAwsm Definitely, I appreciate that testing caps and points could be a whole separate video in itself, I just wondered what it was you were testing to ascertain there were no further issues, but you've cleared that up. Many thanks.
I can’t believe that I was searching “how to fix SMD pad” and you just made a video on how to fix EXACTLY the same board I’m working on and EXACTLY the capacitor same pad that broke on me. Haha! But in my case, both pads broke cause of oxidation. Thanks for the video!
That sounds like a recall. I wonder how many more of these were thrown away because of this problem. Hopefully they rework the board to avoid this problem in the future….👍
THANK YOU for actually mentioning proper temperatures for soldering! I've been trying to educate myself on how-to's for soldering [with the intent of game console repairs) and so many videos just go "yup, turn on the iron, tin, and go" but for someone totally new to the process, knowing estimated temperatures to start from will not only extend the life of the tool/machine but possibly prevents early frustration/mistakes in the learning process and ACCIDENTS.
Temperature is variable. Small components, small traces, lower temps.
But if you have large components or a ground plane temperatures will be higher.
Start low and adjust up as needed.
I literally destroyed that same pad on my gbc removing the capacitor to bypass it for an amp mod and this video could not have been more helpful! Saved me a ton of time and stress and I learned a couple of valuable lessons. Thank you!
Only guy out there teaching this out there! Thanks you sir.
I found this video by looking up how to repair circuit board pads , and coincidentally the C38 on Gameboy color is what I need to repair , awesome video
THANKYOU SO MUCH! With this i was finally able to repair a dead copy of pokemon red
FPV drones
Cetus Pro kit
Tattu 1s batteries
This hobby will become an obsession for you if you like stuff like this. Thanks for your help man.
I’m flying an IFlight Nazgul v3
It is also worth noting that in some cases, you can solder a small wire in place of a trace. If you follow the trace back to its source. You can solder a small wire to the source solder point, and the other end of the wire to the part that needs soldered
But wouldn’t the capacitor look awkward being solder on top of the wire?
@MajinGouken 99% of electronics are covered and unexposed. Besides, I'd rather have something look a little awkward I'd it means it still works and I don't have to buy another part
Thanks for the tip at the end. I had no idea 325C was a bit high. I should experiment with soldering at 200C.
This is the exact problem I was having on my gbc. The smallest capacity pad came off. Now I have better idea how to continue. Thanks!
Thanks for the instructional video. I have some pad repair for a customers laptop. They tried to remove the SMD bios chip with a hot air gun and tweezer. They pulled too soon and too hard and ripped the chip off.......pads and all.
Lol pull out
Thanks for this video, was installing a new wire for my thinkpad charger and messed up the terminals with too much heat (i prefer replacing the wires on original laptop chargers instead of gambling with a potential knock off).
This video is a life saver
Can't say "thank you" enough for your smart move! That helped fixing my Super Famicom (SNES) that the surface mount of a video SMD capacitor was broken! Thank you!
Wow, the perfect video to answer all my questions how to repair a pad. Thank you.
Thank you so much 🙏. I’m building a neopixel lightsaber. And I burnt off one of the solder pads on the switch pcb. I was stressing over what to do until I saw this video.
Good job! I would definitely need a microscope for something like this lol.
Great information! Thank you!
Very informative and helpful video Kyle, I’m sure lots of people will really appreciate this one. 👍🏻
I was using 400f and a solder pad came off. I wasn't even on it long. But this is helpful..thanks!
Hopefully this works! I have an fpv drone remote transmitter that i accidently dropped and busted out the micro usb plug. I lost two of the 5 traces and I managed to scratch away the green film and found the copper. Now I'll try to Soder it tomorrow!
Although this wont help me in my case, this was an excellent intro to fixing something like this.
So i can ask , whether we can paste the new pad on the PCB ? Maybe this sound stupid , but i see if we do it see so ugly , Please sp
Thanks for your video, I manage to fix my GBA with your tips. Cheers
Great intro
Great video!! Is there a chance that you do a video on how to repair a broken solder pad on the power switch of a gameboy color? Damaged them and i cant repair them. Thanks for the video!
Way of making understand
Amazing
Nice keep working we will cross million
two questions:
1) how do you know where the trace is to be exposed with the grinding method?
2) could you have put solder where the old pad was on the left and solder back the capacitor on top of it?
#2 no chance, the solder would have nowhere to adhere to, the silicone wafer board is just meant to hold the copper traces in place. He could have just used a jumper wire, but in this case he had plenty of space to rotate the cap. However, most times you don't have this much space to work with.
Can I do this only to a metal pad? No a capacitor. I want to connect a mini wire to the metal pad.
Im trying to repair my sons switch charger port but i didnt add enough flux to the pins and one side of it removed but the other side didnt. I end up appying too much heat and now the solder is removed and it seems impossible for me to do but im willing
Can you make a video of this process on a gba cart?
I have the same problem but I lost the negative side of the trace pad. Where does the copper trace lead away from the negative side ?
Thanks for posting. The flux under the device is pretty much stuck under the device. I believe the flux is corrosive. Would it not have been better to apply less flux to the pads with, say a toothpick?
Thank you 🙏👍
You know about the dsi d-pad and motherboard part. The red and black wires. Do you know how to clean that part if it gets burned? Kinda having issues soldering the wires to those pins and one of them just won't stick. Any help will be great.
Good job.
I just got a Gbc from ebay and it seems like c37 is missing i don't know what to do I have not much experience in soldering I don't even know if I can find a c37 online 😭
Lol. I came here after losing a through hole pad changing battery on N64 cartridge. Thank you for tips what to do.
Would you also be able to use copper tape on the missing pad?
how would this be done on the A & B buttons if they needed to be fixed?
Send me a message with pictures on my Instagram and I'll see what we can do. If the pads are gone, you'll need to get a bit crafty with some solder, a thin copper sheet, and some PCB epoxy. www.kyleawsm.com
My zl and zr got broken with the same problem can you help me with that
If I still have the pad, can I put it back on somehow? Glue a good option?
Great video, it's hard for beginners, but not impossible. Just let us know how you detected the faulty cap. , is it a common problem for GB boards? Sorry to ask, I'm kinda new to some repairs.
Hi, and thanks! Yup, it can be common on these boards, and depending on the shape they're in sometimes. Sometimes you need to take the capacitor off to fully test. But a simple test you can do is to put your meter in continuity mode and probe either side of the cap on the board. This won't necessarily tell you if that cap is bad, but it will let you know if there is a short to ground somewhere that you need to find. To fully test a capacitor though, for a short, if it's open (also a failure), or for the proper capacitance, you need to remove it from the board first. Also, you can get bad readings from testing any component whole it is on a board still, resistors especially, so it's always best to remove them if you're not sure. Cheers! Hope this helps! 🙂👍🏻
Yeah but how'd you know where the trace was. I couldn't see it in this video. Tribal knowledge?
bruh, I just had a surface pad pop off of a hyper module and the only thing it left me is some micro piece of wire. No trace to scrape. (The trace might have been on the back of the board) and was able to bridge it with a glob of solder that some how miracled on to that little wire stub. and grabbed on to the cap lead. Seriously, what I did doesnt even qualify as a level1 solder, but it worked and now my hypermodule caps are replaced and it works. I pushed to hard trying to unsolder old PCB.
Hi Kyle! I have a question, I have the exact same area with a broken pad. Currently I don’t have sound in my gbc speakers. Did you restore the sound on your board after re attaching?
I checked the speakers and the connection they seem fine and the headphone jack also has continuity. So I’m kind of stuck on what else I could do except the resoldering of the capacitor. Thanks in advance!
C38 is a filtering capacitor for the audio, so it could be part of the issue with no sound. Also check for continuity between pins 4 and 5 on the headphone jack though when no headphones are plugged-in. If there's no continuity, that contact is dirty and needs to be cleaned. Replace C38 and clean that contact and it should likely fix your sound problem. For further help with this, feel free to contact me via Instagram. Cheers!
KyleAwsm Thanks so much! I’ll give it a go. I’ve been working on this project for about a month now but never figured out how to bypass the pad. The video and your response really taught me something new. I’ll take you up on your offer and dm if I run into other problems. Definitely subbed to your channel!
I have a gbc board that I burnt a trace doing a freckle shack in an now I'm pretty sure I'll be able to fix it!
Only 400 likes for a pro video like this?
Show some love for Kyle Awesome!
I scratch my board (blue) there is no Copper what can i do?
Thank you so much its really helpful for me
Couldn't you scrape the pad instead?
Good job, i had to do this exact thing yesterday whie repairing the LB on an xbox one controller. the pad lifted with my desoldering gun. So annoying
Cool video, well done, thank you for sharing it with us :)
Good job🎉
how fix hole pad ??
Do you have any videos on doing this on a 3ds or ds? I ripped the solder pad off the touch screen connector when trying to replacing it. Any tips?
Reach out to me on Instagram and send me some pics and we can see what can be done. 👍🏻 www.kyleawsm.com
Solder to the trace makes sense but what do you do when you rip off the pad for an ic chip that has like 30 different legs all around four edges and the square pad ripped off?
You get some small gauge wire, a microscope, and practice a LOT first, and then you solder directly to the IC. 👍🏻
Thank you
I broke a solder stick on my wavebird c stick board and don’t know how to fix it
thank you a lot
How would you do it on a GBC cartridge that the save battery solder pad came off?
Just saw your Instagram message - Talk to you on there! 👍🏻
Video marker 4:24
I take a quick measurement across the capacitor just to make sure everything is KOSHER. Hahaha. We need a Rabbi to bless the circuit.
"This cap tastes like pickles...." 😂
Can this repair be done to a solder pad by the power switch on a Gameboy advance motherboard
Yes, but for that scenario I recommend instead following that trace back to where it connects to and soldering to that instead.
Ok so I shouldn't try to solder the ripped off piece back on just solder to the trace on the board thank you
5:30 what are those temperatures in C ?
Sn63/pb37: 183C melting work between 230 to 330
Im starting soldering now, Im 16 and I dont know how tf this works.
I literally ripped some pads off of an A1474 Lightning port connector and I also cant solder normal wires together nicely.
Good video bro
.. nice sharing 😇🤗
When i watch these missing pad repair videos i always think they're going to show you how to stick on a new pad to the pcb then solder to it,but they never do?
I think i watched a mr solderfix video where he replaced the pad with one from a spare board.
5:10 Iron Heat - 400 - 600 F
i accidentally ripped the eject button/power button connector in my xbox and hopefully this video translates to that because a replacement motherboard costs around 400$
you dont need flux. i been soldering for 15 years without. when i do try it i notice it doenst do anything other than get the board messy.
heat transfers perfectly fine without it. you just need to know how to use your tools properly.
Yes, know how to use your tools properly - flux included.
There is literally no reason not to use flux unless you're just trying to make a point man.
This pads with what have been glued
Ok bro in my case there are no track what's now
Message me pictures on Instagram @kyleawsm and I'll see how I can help. 👍🏻
Asmr !
lol my idiot self just put aluminum foil tape on it. on that bald spot.. . 1:25 and see that bit of exposed trace there,.. i put a bit led solder on it to bridge the connection to the foil. for good connection. because i cant do that sideway thing. i rip my gamesir pro tk4 mechanical switches pad.. and u cant side ways it xD the position of the buttons are crucial for the buttons to be clickable. after u put back the top casing xD ..
i tried Copper Foil Tape Double Sided Conductive Adhesive too and not aluminum works well than aluminum .. because its tricky to solder on aluminum without doing the a little drop of flux and wipe it then soldering it.. method to not corrode it.. but again since im idiot i wont do this type of shit again haha only on D2LS-21 buttons.... xD
Hi Kyle, nice video! Except for...
you made it seem like you were going in depth on this topic. You really got me hyping for a video of 6 minutes that show you replacing a cap on a GBC by fixing a small "simple" trace on a blurry microscope.
Take your time, show us more then this. UA-cam is full of these video's with 6 minutes of explanation.
and..... don't over-use the Premieres, you have 5.8K subs, not 580K subs ;-)
Keep up the good work!
Thanks for your comment. I'm still getting the hang of this "premiere" feature - I've heard this from a couple others as well and I'm keeping it in mind. It would be nice to have 580k, with as hard as I work on this channel, but I know that will come in time if I keep at this. And I hear you about the video content too. More or less, when working full time plus trying to get out a video per week of good wholesome content, my work week turns into 80 hours or more. It's a lot to keep up with, and any time spent not working my job, I'm writing, filming, and editing. Though sometimes short, I do my best to make my videos professional and concise. This video alone took 20 to 30 hours from start to finish. Dislikes are disheartening to see, on any of my videos, especially after busting my butt to get good quality content out. But whether showing how to do this on a "simple" trace or otherwise, many people are now getting into electronics repair and refurbishment, and Gameboys are how they are learning and starting out. What I am trying to do is show/teach people skills that they can take into repairing other things as well so that they can broaden their horizons and do more. I hope this makes sense. Thanks for watching.
Fahrenheit?? c'mon, let's move to metric!
🤦🏾♀️that is not what kosher means, not even colloquially. Dear god our society is fast forwarding to Idiocracy
It's an acceptable use of the informal. No idea what you're rattling on about.
@@incandescentwithragenot even colloquially. Not even close.
You people just toss words around and hope it amounts to something 🙄 that’s what happens when you’re too lazy to look up words so you just guess what they mean and carry in blindly 😂
This is how civilizations die, death by a million small cuts. You think I’m exaggerating and that’s the saddest part. Karl Marx would be very very proud of you.
@@billgates3699 You're clearly a bit unhinged. Cya.
@@billgates3699 I suspect you have some issues
@@billgates3699
I'm always impressed when someone can be so enthusiastic and confident it what they say, while being 100% wrong.
Collins dictionary:
"Something that is kosher is generally approved of or considered to be correct. [informal]"
My zl and zr got broken with the same problem can you help me with that