i would suggest for the next project, use a busbar instead of daisychaining the breakers... it's cleaner and safer. the only negative point in busbar is that you have to replace the busbar is you want to expand the circuit... havn't seen expandable busbars so far
Good idea for a project but you shouldn't really connect stuff like this. Daisy chaining the contactors like that will overheat if you draw a big current, use a busbar instead and split the circuit into different sections. So you use maybe 4 busbars with 4 wires from the main fuse to split up the load in the wires. The fuse should be before the contactor to protect it as well because those can't handle 63A like the main breaker is rated for. This is no hate its just some constructive criticism from someone who is a Automation engineer. edit: spelling error, English isn't my main language
As a control and distribution cabinet, you should distinguish and specify the wire color, usually red wire for phase, black wire for neutral, green/yellow wire for ground, signal control wire is a small wire and also distinguished by wire color and the ends of the wire are the heat-generating contacts, so the presser should be used.
Ron Ross, I am a Principal Design Engineer for a Large Utility in the US. I just turned 67 and I will be retiring. I would like to add comments for improving your panel. I realize that this may be copied by others. I am not sure of the color code used but the hot wire here is black. White is used for the neutral and green for the ground wire. As I understood your control layout, the relays powered the circuit breakers which then fed the output to the circuits. The main breaker in the panel limits the internal and downstream circuits by its rating. I did not count the breakers, but I believe you had 32 at 25 Amp each. The main is maybe 63 amp? two pole. We do not break the neutral of white wire with a breaker in the US. If you are going to use a main breaker, it should be larger, maybe 100 amp. Also, you need to group the power runs in groups of 5 from the main. You are feeding them all with the same wire. The din rail under the relays and the breakers should have a screw thought the mounting plate about every six inches.
Thank you very much for your valuable advice, this video made by two years ago, this month we have made a new solution video tour, i think you will love it. ua-cam.com/video/Ae4CDMBKRwA/v-deo.html how about this solution?
Death trap in a box! No separation of mains and low voltage. No earthing or bonding. Main switch feeding contractors without circuit protection. Undersized cables. RF devices installed inside a metal box - thanks for demonstration of what not to do.
I really appreciate your efforts in educating the world with innovations. Home automation has always been my dream career. Will you be my direct mentor?
Busbar (Splited (Not one large!!!!)) Clean the paint under the earth strap!!! I would put an earth strap between the back panel and box too. Labels. Larger neutral distribution bar. And earth distribution bar too. Wiring diagram on the inside of the door. I would put a switch on the front door. That does not allow the door to be opened while the switch is ON. The wire color might OK in your Country. EU IEC 60445:2021 Might you want cabinet lighting as well?
Strange way of mounting the din rail. Why multiple pieces in the same row. Self tapers are also much easier. Good videos non the less, always interesting how people make cabinets in other countries.
Selamat pagi bos db gn dlm nya cantik gn kemas cuma ada lg kurang dlm db book tu tidak ada kipas pendingin haba panas untuk pcb bot control nya kalau tidak ada kipas pendingin udara apabila pcb bot tu nanti panas cepat rosak sebap panas alat elektronik pcb nya pasti tidak akan tahan lama gn cepat rosak jadi mesti kena letak kipas bos 😊🇲🇾
Yes, but if you don't know what you're doing you can make some mistakes and that can put you and your house in danger when you try to connect with the power
why would someone want a PLC for their house? whats so tedious that you would want to automate? does it wash the dishes, do your laundry, mow the yard, and cook for you? No? what the point then? automating lights isn't worth the cost.
Do you love to tidy stuff in casings? Do you like building robust mechanisms? Do you also like tech? Say hello to embedded systems engineering or embedded systems!
When you come in with AC L1 in one relais and then go 32 screw terminals to the last one, you have high connection resistance. Did you measure voltage drop under load? Use 4 or more feed ins and connect them in star topology.
Poor advice from a non-electrician. Can't you see the gross design errors here? The only safe and professional way to do this is use a correctly rated (63A) manufactured and insulated copper busbar to connect the supply to all CB's... that then individually feed the contactors. A single 63A rated cable connects Main Switch to Busbar. Enclosed in a box that would be 16mm2 cable minimum. what's he using? Looks like 4mm2 solid core wire at the most... good for 32A. Note: No more than 2 conductors per terminal is what those CB and Contactor terminals are designed for anyway. Where are the Neutral and Earth bars with a minimum of 33 terminals for outgoing circuits? The enclosure is too small to accommodate sufficient segregation and cable management anyway.
@@KinCony doesn't metter what kind of load (lamps or anything else). Remember that CB must protect device AND CABLE - this is a principal rule. In case of some short circuits your contactors and wires are not protected, 63 A will burn out them.
32 channel means it can control only 32 different devices (On/Off) - correct? What if I have dimmable CCT lights? Also, how to connect this to Home Assistant that I already have?
yes, relay controller use for control 32CH ON/OFF, if you need dimmer, you can add KC868-D16 dimmer controller into DB, so that they can work in one software.
I am very interested in your video. Can I get the physical wiring information or electrical drawing? I would like to apply home IOT to my parent's house.
Yeah, pretty dumb in many ways. I say not good to see someone with no idea on how to design and fabricate a non-compliant SCA with the intent of instructing others! Count the number of morons that think it's all "good work" and 'fans' who have even less idea. I just pity the Emergency responders that have to attend a fire or electrocution as a result of dumb ideas like this.
I think it’s neat, BUT is’n all the current for every single braker going through the first screw terminal?! 32x10A……320A on a single screw terminal. Worst case. I smell MAGIC SMOKE…
@@HobbyFinn2 Correct regarding the string connection of supply Active to each sub circuit. EVERY dodgy looping in that panel is problematic. On that type CB the clamp is designed for little more than 32A, because that's the max rating of those CB's, when properly installed. That involves using rigid pressed copper busbar that maybe rated to carry 160-225A total loading which also directly connects to the 2 pole 63A rated Main Switch (it's not a CB... just an isolation switch). Your calculation of 32 x 10A = 320A isn't correct because this panel would be fed from an overcurent protection device (Fuse or CB) at the Main Distribution panel in the building.... but maybe not if some dodgy idiot connected it up. That fuse or CB's rating should be no more than the rating of cable to this panel AND the rating of the Main Switch. Who knows what he has used. Further, he has used small gauge low current rating solid wire for the looping and connection to Main Switch that is only good for 32A... some looping there using lower gauge wire is only rated for 10A. BUT LOOK closer.. that unswitched active loop feeds to every CONTACTOR (that has a even lower designed current rating) that then feeds individual CB's. This "neat" fire hazard is wired back to front! In any case, I first look at the Earthing/Grounding circuit, which is most important to protect life... and that fails Standards. Further major design flaws present. The Control power supply (for PLC and contactor switching operation) that is fed from Main Switch should be protected by it's own 2-10A fuse or CB. Without that the control wiring at mains potential under fault condition (which could happen inside the PLC or any relay switched contactor or low voltage power supply in that enclosure) is 'protected' at a current rating of the fuse or CB in Main Switchboard. Could be 63A... only needs to be 16A to 32A max if that thing is only controlling lighting circuits... more if general power circuits for appliances... and a lot more if controlling high demand loads like fixed heating too. At least he made it easy to isolate any wireless control to the panel. All you need to do is close the metal door of the Faraday Cage enclosure! LOL
@@richardswairg3695 Lets say... between the two.. a 'how to' DIY no idea 20kg batch of black powder fireworks, stored in every room of the house, or this 'how to' DIY no idea mains voltage (240V AC 40A @ 10kA pfc) switchbox fireworks, permanently connected to a home or commercial building. Now, what do you think would be more fun and safer? ...and it follows, Do you think demonstrating either of these highly dangerous 'DIY fun' things is suitable for UA-cam promotion?
Is it possible to direct drive DC valve motors (for floor heating) forward and backward on the output terminals? Can you show how to integrate the controller with Home Assistant?
if connect with large current load, suggest add AC contactor. controller can work with home assistant by MQTT, we have video tour: ua-cam.com/video/Yrat7hVzXRw/v-deo.html
The correct answer is.. Yes, if a forward AND reverse function contactors are used. That will use 2 control output channels of the PLC instead of 1only. 3 states of operation... Forward / OFF / Reverse. Check to see if the valve motors need to be de-energised after full travel actuation. i.e. if there is internal switching that disconnects applied control signal so the motor doesn't keep running after achieving a full open or close position. Use contactors/relays designed for use on DC... not AC, unless you enjoy replacing faulty equipment.
@@BTW... even worse, breaking an inductive load generates an eletric arc which regular AC contactors aren't designed for. You definitely need a device with spark extinguishing chamber, otherwise your contacts are burnt down pretty fast and as a result the contacts may stick
Във производството на зъболекарски кабинети има един от многото му прости "детАйли" един прост, който се нарича "щуцер".....💧.📍.💦. 🦄 ....колко са операциите на един стругар за изработката му като "краен продукт"....
iot is good , but no proper channel duct , no lugs , no proper main wire distribution , you may need to learn more about electrical . otherwise i see some burning smell from your this panel .. ;)
i wanted to buy all these divices and make myself distribution boardwith IoT controller…pls give me address for placing order from India.. DO YOU HAVE AGENT IN INDIA.?
i would suggest for the next project, use a busbar instead of daisychaining the breakers... it's cleaner and safer. the only negative point in busbar is that you have to replace the busbar is you want to expand the circuit... havn't seen expandable busbars so far
yes, thanks for your suggestion, next project will improve it.
yeapp... busbar, and normal wire to the connection off the drivers, small secction. great job never the less :)
one more thing, 25A, and 2.5 wiring you are on the edge off it. better 16A to that wire section
@@pedroveloso9707 thank you
@@pedroveloso9707 ok, thanks.
Good idea for a project but you shouldn't really connect stuff like this. Daisy chaining the contactors like that will overheat if you draw a big current, use a busbar instead and split the circuit into different sections. So you use maybe 4 busbars with 4 wires from the main fuse to split up the load in the wires. The fuse should be before the contactor to protect it as well because those can't handle 63A like the main breaker is rated for. This is no hate its just some constructive criticism from someone who is a Automation engineer.
edit: spelling error, English isn't my main language
thank you very much for your suggestion, we will make new video tour based on new controller and solution, it will be improved.
@@KinCony Nice! Looking forward to it :)
@@Willeexd1337 thanks.
As a control and distribution cabinet, you should distinguish and specify the wire color, usually red wire for phase, black wire for neutral, green/yellow wire for ground, signal control wire is a small wire and also distinguished by wire color and the ends of the wire are the heat-generating contacts, so the presser should be used.
thanks for your suggestion, we are designing another new solution.
good think!
Distribution cabinet use the cable only fire alarm cable.
@@dpsmoin2151 how about this style? ua-cam.com/video/Ae4CDMBKRwA/v-deo.html
@@KinCony waiting new design so
Ron Ross, I am a Principal Design Engineer for a Large Utility in the US. I just turned 67 and I will be retiring. I would like to add comments for improving your panel. I realize that this may be copied by others. I am not sure of the color code used but the hot wire here is black. White is used for the neutral and green for the ground wire. As I understood your control layout, the relays powered the circuit breakers which then fed the output to the circuits. The main breaker in the panel limits the internal and downstream circuits by its rating. I did not count the breakers, but I believe you had 32 at 25 Amp each. The main is maybe 63 amp? two pole. We do not break the neutral of white wire with a breaker in the US. If you are going to use a main breaker, it should be larger, maybe 100 amp. Also, you need to group the power runs in groups of 5 from the main. You are feeding them all with the same wire. The din rail under the relays and the breakers should have a screw thought the mounting plate about every six inches.
Thank you very much for your valuable advice, this video made by two years ago, this month we have made a new solution video tour, i think you will love it. ua-cam.com/video/Ae4CDMBKRwA/v-deo.html how about this solution?
Sair very very nice video and easy proses to learning
thanks
Good sir 🇮🇳🇮🇳🇮🇳
Very good
thanks
Death trap in a box! No separation of mains and low voltage. No earthing or bonding. Main switch feeding contractors without circuit protection. Undersized cables. RF devices installed inside a metal box - thanks for demonstration of what not to do.
next version will all improve
I really appreciate your efforts in educating the world with innovations.
Home automation has always been my dream career.
Will you be my direct mentor?
thanks, any question need help just leave message. we will help everyone.
SRSLY?
Hi nice
This nice
Busbar (Splited (Not one large!!!!)) Clean the paint under the earth strap!!! I would put an earth strap between the back panel and box too. Labels. Larger neutral distribution bar. And earth distribution bar too. Wiring diagram on the inside of the door. I would put a switch on the front door. That does not allow the door to be opened while the switch is ON.
The wire color might OK in your Country. EU IEC 60445:2021
Might you want cabinet lighting as well?
thanks for your suggestion. this is our new solution: ua-cam.com/video/Ae4CDMBKRwA/v-deo.html this is better.
butyfull video
Strange way of mounting the din rail. Why multiple pieces in the same row. Self tapers are also much easier. Good videos non the less, always interesting how people make cabinets in other countries.
thanks for suggestion.
shouldn't the wire be thicker when the fuse is only 63 amps ?
yes, this demo, not use full of load current.
Thank a lot of
Thanks a lot KinCony. Amazing job. I Will be waiting the second video of this Electrical WiFi Control Panel.
if want to use wifi, just replace the controller with KC868-H32B is ok
Selamat pagi bos db gn dlm nya cantik gn kemas cuma ada lg kurang dlm db book tu tidak ada kipas pendingin haba panas untuk pcb bot control nya kalau tidak ada kipas pendingin udara apabila pcb bot tu nanti panas cepat rosak sebap panas alat elektronik pcb nya pasti tidak akan tahan lama gn cepat rosak jadi mesti kena letak kipas bos 😊🇲🇾
thanks for suggestion.
Good
thanks
nice work, love it. thank u
you are welcome
Anyone viewing this please do not use this as a guide. Get in contact with a qualified electrician and find out how it should be done.
Wtf why? This is a super clean build.
@@frikkied2638cuz sometimes viewer copying the video and doing it wrong
Yes, but if you don't know what you're doing you can make some mistakes and that can put you and your house in danger when you try to connect with the power
can that 4mm singles take the sixty to 100 amps you will be drawing through it ?
ua-cam.com/video/Ae4CDMBKRwA/v-deo.html this is 2023 newest smart distribution board DIY video tour, have diagram download link in video description.😀
ua-cam.com/video/Ae4CDMBKRwA/v-deo.html this is 2023 newest smart distribution board DIY video tour, have diagram download link in video description.😀
❤❤❤
Мне кажется мягким проводом монтаж был бы намного проще, быстрее и надежнее. Идея хорошая, исполнение на 3.
thanks for suggestion, this is the newest solution: ua-cam.com/video/Ae4CDMBKRwA/v-deo.html
this video is in accordance with my hobby.can the manual switch button be replaced with a touch switch?thank you.
already can extend connect with wall switch. the black button inside of AC contactor only for emergency use.
@@KinCony No, it's for isolation and bypassing control signals when testing.
@@BTW... if use bypassing control, will use COM,NC,NO will be very large space.
No commentary - annyoing music in background instead. It tells everything about your channel quality.
next video will have voice explain.
i like the work,can this be used in offices
sure, no problem
I would like to follow this training
thanks
Parabéns. 1000 ok
Beautiful work !
thanks.
Nice
This is beautiful ❤
5:05 if you put those remote units in an all metal enclosure, won't that make for poor reception due to them being inside a Faraday cage?
mainly use by ethernet, not use by wifi.
Awesome work
I
love this video
thanks
I really like this work. Have you manufactured smart dimmers, like triac dimming or for LED light?
i am dimmer, you can see this video: ua-cam.com/video/cKgbX8nO0jQ/v-deo.html
@@KinCony Thank you! Do you have a triac dimmer as well (for incandescent or other lights)?
yes, we have, KC868-D8 + SSR is ok, i will make video later.
Great job
thanks
Bad to use more than 40 red short wires instead of using copper bar with plastic cover
thanks for suggestion.
nice job sir
No... dangerous and non complaint to any mains wiring Standard.
Hello Conny...requesting for circuit diagrams and software documents
Link in video description
Those MCBs are not intended for routine switching things on and off. Typical contact life is 100,000 operations.
yes, mainly control ON/OFF by extend wall switch panel, not by MCBs.
Good....we need your circuit diagram and code plxxx share it with us
all our diagram you can see here: www.kincony.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=33
You use back ground music if u stop music only you explain all connection so more help full for alls
thanks for your suggestion, here is a video we have maken: ua-cam.com/video/B3RgOH_MGeQ/v-deo.html that we have explained details.
why would someone want a PLC for their house? whats so tedious that you would want to automate?
does it wash the dishes, do your laundry, mow the yard, and cook for you?
No? what the point then?
automating lights isn't worth the cost.
Our company would like to specialize in your products and methods for IOT. How can we get training?
we have online training video play list: www.kincony.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=18
Do you love to tidy stuff in casings?
Do you like building robust mechanisms?
Do you also like tech?
Say hello to embedded systems engineering or embedded systems!
Zuda zoʻr
Why you didn’t choose for a wireless solution, Zigbee based or so? Not necessary to wire your whole home to this central switch box…
because wired solution is best stable. we will use a new way for switch panel connection, reduce wires number.
When you come in with AC L1 in one relais and then go 32 screw terminals to the last one, you have high connection resistance. Did you measure voltage drop under load?
Use 4 or more feed ins and connect them in star topology.
yes, you are right, now using 8 pins together with power in.
Poor advice from a non-electrician. Can't you see the gross design errors here?
The only safe and professional way to do this is use a correctly rated (63A) manufactured and insulated copper busbar to connect the supply to all CB's... that then individually feed the contactors.
A single 63A rated cable connects Main Switch to Busbar. Enclosed in a box that would be 16mm2 cable minimum. what's he using? Looks like 4mm2 solid core wire at the most... good for 32A.
Note: No more than 2 conductors per terminal is what those CB and Contactor terminals are designed for anyway.
Where are the Neutral and Earth bars with a minimum of 33 terminals for outgoing circuits?
The enclosure is too small to accommodate sufficient segregation and cable management anyway.
@@BTW... this is a demo, most use for lamp, not use full current. if large current load need thicker wire.
@@KinCony doesn't metter what kind of load (lamps or anything else). Remember that CB must protect device AND CABLE - this is a principal rule. In case of some short circuits your contactors and wires are not protected, 63 A will burn out them.
thanks for your suggestion, next project will update.
Why didn't you use an electrical bus instead of cable jumpers?
now updated for use bus
Hello sir! How much is the cost hardware not including the software?
you can see our online store: kincony.aliexpress.com/ all our software is free.
Hope not putting cooling fan wont damage the panel?
it can work without fan
7:11 why you did multi looping?
Load diversion for safer operation
Multi looping is prohibited in good designs
@@AalimOnlineOfficial thanks for suggestion.
Hello,
That's beautiful! I want to give it a try. Could you share circuit and software with me?
next week, we will have new version circuit
@@KinCony thanks a lot; looking forward to that
@@Engineer1GH ok, because we have released new smart controller, many new functions.
I would enjoy a follow up video where you explained it, watching the construction doesn't tell me a lot
thanks
Can you upload video on Home Automation using Smart Station. Please
Smart Station?
Mantab
Thanks a lot 👍
Nice Work done👍👍. I need the circuit diagram and it's specificications like what kind of MCB, chips and elcbs used. Can you please give me its detail.
www.kincony.com/download/SMART-MAIN-DB-AUTOMATION.pdf
No it isn't. Don't do it.
8:55 это место 100% первым выгорит. Жаль у вас нет тепловизора)
ua-cam.com/video/Ae4CDMBKRwA/v-deo.html this is 2023 newest smart distribution board DIY video tour, have diagram download link in video description.
@@KinCony ua-cam.com/video/Ae4CDMBKRwA/v-deo.html да, тут уже все отлично.
thanks@@Andrey0I
32 channel means it can control only 32 different devices (On/Off) - correct? What if I have dimmable CCT lights? Also, how to connect this to Home Assistant that I already have?
yes, relay controller use for control 32CH ON/OFF, if you need dimmer, you can add KC868-D16 dimmer controller into DB, so that they can work in one software.
Muy bueno
thanks
i really wanna do this as my final year project what are the names of the components u used in doing this please help me out kk
thanks, many use our KC868-H32 series smart controller, this month have new hardware version, support alexa , google and apple homekit directly
very cool!
Hi can you wirig of the lighting and auto gate please
Share wiring diagram showing the position of lighting ,dry switch and cable for auto gate.
www.kincony.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=33
May i ask the diagram and software used for this awesome project please
you can download from kincony webpage: www.kincony.com/document
wow nice project. please can it be controlled with amazon alexa?
yes, it can
Okay. Please is possible for you to do a video on that?
@@crisptvevents681 ok, later we will make it.
@@KinCony alright.. thank you
why does it not have Earth leakage that panel? how does it protect against earth fault?
if you want ,you can add it, this is a sample demo.
Thanks
you are welcome
Woo!
Hi sir , you can do smart air breaker DB box.
yes, but we not change breaker structure.
Witch software are you use in the mobile phone please ?
Thanks for the video
now our newest controller can work with tuya app
@@KinCony I don't like tuya... I like all my questions in my local area.
Is this tuya on you phone please ?
Thanks again
@@MrDenisJoshua ok, understand now, it can use kincony KBOX application in local network without internet.
@@KinCony ok Thanks a lot for the answer.
@@MrDenisJoshua you are welcome
2017 ke bad lenevo thinkserver kyu nahi aaye purane hi kyu bik
please where can i get the materials to buy and diagram
you can from our online store: kincony.aliexpress.com/store/1100463977
all diagram download at here: www.kincony.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=33
Why do you use C breakers and not B?
mainly use for light. here is our new solution: ua-cam.com/video/Ae4CDMBKRwA/v-deo.html this is improvement.
I am very interested in your video. Can I get the physical wiring information or electrical drawing? I would like to apply home IOT to my parent's house.
you can download from our webpage, now we will make a new video tour with the newest function soon.
Not much smart in 32 on off switches. Good to see how not to build a breaker panel though.
Yea those massive jumper chains look awful
now we are using new jumper, will take new video later.
Yeah, pretty dumb in many ways. I say not good to see someone with no idea on how to design and fabricate a non-compliant SCA with the intent of instructing others!
Count the number of morons that think it's all "good work" and 'fans' who have even less idea.
I just pity the Emergency responders that have to attend a fire or electrocution as a result of dumb ideas like this.
I think it’s neat, BUT is’n all the current for every single braker going through the first screw terminal?! 32x10A……320A on a single screw terminal. Worst case. I smell MAGIC SMOKE…
@@HobbyFinn2 Correct regarding the string connection of supply Active to each sub circuit. EVERY dodgy looping in that panel is problematic. On that type CB the clamp is designed for little more than 32A, because that's the max rating of those CB's, when properly installed. That involves using rigid pressed copper busbar that maybe rated to carry 160-225A total loading which also directly connects to the 2 pole 63A rated Main Switch (it's not a CB... just an isolation switch). Your calculation of 32 x 10A = 320A isn't correct because this panel would be fed from an overcurent protection device (Fuse or CB) at the Main Distribution panel in the building.... but maybe not if some dodgy idiot connected it up. That fuse or CB's rating should be no more than the rating of cable to this panel AND the rating of the Main Switch. Who knows what he has used. Further, he has used small gauge low current rating solid wire for the looping and connection to Main Switch that is only good for 32A... some looping there using lower gauge wire is only rated for 10A.
BUT LOOK closer.. that unswitched active loop feeds to every CONTACTOR (that has a even lower designed current rating) that then feeds individual CB's. This "neat" fire hazard is wired back to front!
In any case, I first look at the Earthing/Grounding circuit, which is most important to protect life... and that fails Standards.
Further major design flaws present.
The Control power supply (for PLC and contactor switching operation) that is fed from Main Switch should be protected by it's own 2-10A fuse or CB. Without that the control wiring at mains potential under fault condition (which could happen inside the PLC or any relay switched contactor or low voltage power supply in that enclosure) is 'protected' at a current rating of the fuse or CB in Main Switchboard. Could be 63A... only needs to be 16A to 32A max if that thing is only controlling lighting circuits... more if general power circuits for appliances... and a lot more if controlling high demand loads like fixed heating too.
At least he made it easy to isolate any wireless control to the panel. All you need to do is close the metal door of the Faraday Cage enclosure! LOL
and when something goes bad how do you replace it with all the wires on it
there is manual control button.
Where we can buy supplies in the Philippines? Thanks
you can order from our online store: kincony.aliexpress.com
With this set up it is not possible to control much load, no?
just add controller will control much load.
Please what of type of circuit breaker did you use? I see another attachment to it?
middle row is contact, the breaker just traditional MCB
Big fan of your work !!! Keep up the
Good work
thanks, we will make more interesting applications
Seriously?
@@BTW... give him a break bro he said he made this project for fun 😅
@@richardswairg3695 Lets say... between the two.. a 'how to' DIY no idea 20kg batch of black powder fireworks, stored in every room of the house, or this 'how to' DIY no idea mains voltage (240V AC 40A @ 10kA pfc) switchbox fireworks, permanently connected to a home or commercial building.
Now, what do you think would be more fun and safer?
...and it follows, Do you think demonstrating either of these highly dangerous 'DIY fun' things is suitable for UA-cam promotion?
What type of microcontroller are you using?
STM32
Cool but if i turn off the power my i ternet wont work so i cant turn it back on 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
use two different channel.
Sir what is the range of controlling to this panel?
anywhere, just have internet.
Hi..
Do you have a distributor in sri lanka?
no, need send product by express
Can you please share the circuit diagram?
circuit diagram in the video description
Is the contactor necessay? , can i make it with just mcb , cb, kc868 , 12v cb and switch terminal only?, i mean what is the used of cobtactor?
contactor main control large current load. if only use by smart controller's relay , not use for large current, add a contactor will be safety.
Does the contactor function same as relay? So there will be current flow in the coil of contactor to close the contact just like relay?
@@kacoeng yes, like a relay, but suit for large current, such as 25A,40A,.....
If you need to ask this question you SHOULD NOT be doing this type of work.
@@KinCony Use of correctly rated switchgear aside.... what you have fabricated is NOT SAFE.
Is it possible to direct drive DC valve motors (for floor heating) forward and backward on the output terminals? Can you show how to integrate the controller with Home Assistant?
if connect with large current load, suggest add AC contactor. controller can work with home assistant by MQTT, we have video tour: ua-cam.com/video/Yrat7hVzXRw/v-deo.html
@@KinCony Use an AC contactor for a "large current" DC load? Seriously?
The correct answer is.. Yes, if a forward AND reverse function contactors are used. That will use 2 control output channels of the PLC instead of 1only. 3 states of operation... Forward / OFF / Reverse.
Check to see if the valve motors need to be de-energised after full travel actuation. i.e. if there is internal switching that disconnects applied control signal so the motor doesn't keep running after achieving a full open or close position.
Use contactors/relays designed for use on DC... not AC, unless you enjoy replacing faulty equipment.
@@BTW... if you want use DC load, just replace with contact for DC version, there are many contact type can be used, just according to "load type".
@@BTW... even worse, breaking an inductive load generates an eletric arc which regular AC contactors aren't designed for. You definitely need a device with spark extinguishing chamber, otherwise your contacts are burnt down pretty fast and as a result the contacts may stick
Connecting red and blue cables together !?
what time showed?
@@KinCony 8:56
@@benoitpesesse9773 i see, that is "N" line. maybe the AC contactor teminal use blue is better.
hello i hope you are fine
Can you send me complete code and circut diagram
ua-cam.com/video/Ae4CDMBKRwA/v-deo.html this is 2023 newest smart distribution board DIY video tour, have diagram download link in video description
This is Great. Thank you!
you are welcome
how you did it??
??
Във производството на зъболекарски кабинети има един от многото му прости "детАйли" един прост, който се нарича "щуцер".....💧.📍.💦. 🦄 ....колко са операциите на един стругар за изработката му като "краен продукт"....
Eu quero trabalhar com essa tecnologia (Casa Inteligente).
iot is good , but no proper channel duct , no lugs , no proper main wire distribution , you may need to learn more about electrical . otherwise i see some burning smell from your this panel .. ;)
thanks for suggestion, the new verison many have updated.
Lose the audio, speed the video up and get the thought across.
Can you also install 32 push button switches for controlling besides the APP?
yes, support.
@@KinCony Can the push switch with LED to indicate is ON?
@@crypto2own811 yes, no problem, it can feedback relay state.
@@KinCony Which module controller will work with HomeKit? I need to contol 48 devices.
@@crypto2own811 KC868-H32BS is best, another you need add a raspberry pi.
i wanted to buy all these divices and make myself distribution boardwith IoT controller…pls give me address for placing order from India..
DO YOU HAVE AGENT IN INDIA.?
you can add us whatsapp number:+86-15381188302 we make online order for you by alibaba.com. now no agent in India.