Great channel. If possible, I think it would make your UA-cam channel more interesting is to do more Dyno testing. Like stage one, stage two, stage three, stage four, etc. In terms of cams, intakes, etc. I tried to find as much as I could on the 352FE but it would help if you numbered the videos. For example, part one, part two, part three etc. I don’t know which came first or second. It was a very interesting idea.
On oiling I always ran 6 qrts of oil in stock FE engines. If you don't the pan will run dry if you run high RPM's for any extended time. Drag racing an FE with 5 qrts will cause bearing failure.
I’m using the Pro-Flo 4 on my 445 FE, works great and I like it, but,with that being said, I worry about what I would do if I experience a EFI related problem while I’m on a road trip. It’s probably not going to be a simple repair you can do if you experience a carburetor problem.
You really can't. You end up with something marginal for both purposes. Pulling engines don't have any business being in street vehicles. They need rpm, compression, and everything it takes to make horsepower at high rpm.
Great video Brent, I enjoy you sharing your knowledge and experience. Would like to see you talk about valve sizes and port work on iron FE heads. Thanks!
Brent , on a Scat H beam 6.49 rod for an FE 416. Would you recommend a Mahle dish -20cc with a pin size that is .990. then hone the rod from .975 to .990 . I know that’s an odd question but that is how I received a motor from an engine builder. I don’t feel that it will work. And have you ever come across fake crankshafts with a 1U mark claiming it’s a 428 but isn’t? It also has push rods that are 8.450 and I bought a pair of 427 Shelby adjustable rocker arms. Could it be that he put some Chevy roller lifters that are taller ? And if that crankshaft is a 390 by putting a bigger in that rod make up for it to make it a 428 crankshaft? Great show by the way. Many have learned by you from your You Tube channel.
Brent, I'm coming back to this hoping for some info on a FE build in my near future. What is the safe limit of the factory rotating assembly in a street application? Not looking for big RPM, looking for torque. Application will be a 3/4 ton pickup. Do you have a target C.R. for an FE in that application?
Brent regarding FE oiling what are your thoughts on oil pan capacity/configurations? Also what about solid windage trays to keep the oil around the pickup during hard drag strip launches?
The deeper/larger capacity the oil pan, the better. A shallow pan not only doesn't offer enough oil capacity for a higher performance engine, but it also tends to run the oil temperature a little hotter. The best setup is a deep pan, with lot of oil capacity, and gates in the bottom to direct the oil to the pickup. A windage tray will not direct oil to the pickup. Contrary to what most guys do, I do not like using windage trays on FEs and choose not to unless I'm forced to by the pan design (i.e. Aviaid). Not only do they not show any horsepower on the dyno, but they also put a "lid" on a skirted block, which can cause crankcase pressure to do bad things. If you look at modern skirted block designs, they have big holes in the block bulkheads so that the crankcase pulses can be directed and scavenged.
I’m curious what it would take to make 500hp at crank while using 428CJ style exhausts on a 390 for those that don’t want to use headers in a Mustang / Cougar? I live at 5500’ and know I’ll take a HP hit due to altitude from that value…believe around 15% from sea level…so I’d see around 425 here.
My daughter and I are restoring a ‘65 Galaxie for her. Engine was only just a few years old but had a couple oil leaks. When we bought the car I noticed ignition timing was too far advanced and kicking back when starting so I corrected that and engine ran great. We pulled the engine & while fixing leaks were just going to take a look at rod & mains and found the rod bearings looked bad & mains weren’t so great either. Also noticed engine was hard to hand roll initially but easy to keep turning once you got it spinning. I believe I had #4 rod bearing grabbing a little causing that. Long story short I would appreciate it if you would recommend crank bearings for me. It had Clevite full groove P bearings in it. What about 3/4 groove Speed Pros in a stock Fe engine? Thanks for any information you are willing to share. I very much enjoy your channel by the way.
Thanks for your response to my question you did help, your whole video was excellent keep them coming
Great channel. If possible, I think it would make your UA-cam channel more interesting is to do more Dyno testing. Like stage one, stage two, stage three, stage four, etc. In terms of cams, intakes, etc.
I tried to find as much as I could on the 352FE but it would help if you numbered the videos. For example, part one, part two, part three etc. I don’t know which came first or second. It was a very interesting idea.
Thanks for all the trick tips😁
On oiling I always ran 6 qrts of oil in stock FE engines. If you don't the pan will run dry if you run high RPM's for any extended time. Drag racing an FE with 5 qrts will cause bearing failure.
First viewed today and subscribed,I'm along for the long haul.
I’m using the Pro-Flo 4 on my 445 FE, works great and I like it, but,with that being said, I worry about what I would do if I experience a EFI related problem while I’m on a road trip. It’s probably not going to be a simple repair you can do if you experience a carburetor problem.
How would you build a 390 fe for a pulling motor that you would also drive 30 miles to a car show
You really can't. You end up with something marginal for both purposes. Pulling engines don't have any business being in street vehicles. They need rpm, compression, and everything it takes to make horsepower at high rpm.
Great video Brent, I enjoy you sharing your knowledge and experience.
Would like to see you talk about valve sizes and port work on iron FE heads. Thanks!
Brent , on a Scat H beam 6.49 rod for an FE 416. Would you recommend a Mahle dish -20cc with a pin size that is .990. then hone the rod from .975 to .990 . I know that’s an odd question but that is how I received a motor from an engine builder. I don’t feel that it will work. And have you ever come across fake crankshafts with a 1U mark claiming it’s a 428 but isn’t? It also has push rods that are 8.450 and I bought a pair of 427 Shelby adjustable rocker arms. Could it be that he put some Chevy roller lifters that are taller ? And if that crankshaft is a 390 by putting a bigger in that rod make up for it to make it a 428 crankshaft? Great show by the way. Many have learned by you from your You Tube channel.
Will a 351W camshaft fit a 67 289 ? And will GT4O heads fit 67 289, and will it help, and how to do it? Great video's.
Yes, if it's an early 351W. The later 351 Windsors have a 5.0 firing order.
@@mchristrAll 351w have the same firing order.
Thanks for the knowledge!
Brent, I'm coming back to this hoping for some info on a FE build in my near future.
What is the safe limit of the factory rotating assembly in a street application? Not looking for big RPM, looking for torque. Application will be a 3/4 ton pickup.
Do you have a target C.R. for an FE in that application?
What do you think about taking intake valve seats to 30 degrees, used to be big in older fords?
Great info!
Brent regarding FE oiling what are your thoughts on oil pan capacity/configurations? Also what about solid windage trays to keep the oil around the pickup during hard drag strip launches?
The deeper/larger capacity the oil pan, the better. A shallow pan not only doesn't offer enough oil capacity for a higher performance engine, but it also tends to run the oil temperature a little hotter. The best setup is a deep pan, with lot of oil capacity, and gates in the bottom to direct the oil to the pickup. A windage tray will not direct oil to the pickup. Contrary to what most guys do, I do not like using windage trays on FEs and choose not to unless I'm forced to by the pan design (i.e. Aviaid). Not only do they not show any horsepower on the dyno, but they also put a "lid" on a skirted block, which can cause crankcase pressure to do bad things. If you look at modern skirted block designs, they have big holes in the block bulkheads so that the crankcase pulses can be directed and scavenged.
I’m curious what it would take to make 500hp at crank while using 428CJ style exhausts on a 390 for those that don’t want to use headers in a Mustang / Cougar? I live at 5500’ and know I’ll take a HP hit due to altitude from that value…believe around 15% from sea level…so I’d see around 425 here.
My daughter and I are restoring a ‘65 Galaxie for her. Engine was only just a few years old but had a couple oil leaks. When we bought the car I noticed ignition timing was too far advanced and kicking back when starting so I corrected that and engine ran great. We pulled the engine & while fixing leaks were just going to take a look at rod & mains and found the rod bearings looked bad & mains weren’t so great either. Also noticed engine was hard to hand roll initially but easy to keep turning once you got it spinning. I believe I had #4 rod bearing grabbing a little causing that.
Long story short I would appreciate it if you would recommend crank bearings for me. It had Clevite full groove P bearings in it.
What about 3/4 groove Speed Pros in a stock Fe engine?
Thanks for any information you are willing to share.
I very much enjoy your channel by the way.
Have you had any luck finding a place to try to make those sintered 6.635" FE rods?