Thank you for your video. It is easy to understand thanks to your clear and careful explanations and camerawork. It is very helpful for me as I don't have the F150 but a 2003 Explorer Sport Trac with a suspect positive battery cable that I think I will need to replace. Your video gave me some valuable insight as to how to do this job.
I saw that Rock Auto sells a battery to switch and battery to ground cable that look like you could use the combo of the two instead of the one piece wire harness and save a lot of $$$. Except that you would not have a fuselink if you use the two separate cables as replacement. What does the fuselink rectangular box thing do? Would using the to separate cables setup work? Parts are STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS A694UDC (negative) and STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS A634TA (positive) on Rock Auto.
The one at 19:46? That's radio static, the radio volume was up and the reception was bad. Or do you mean the groan noise at 22:24? That is the power steering pump groaning due to small air bubbles being in the system. I have since replaced 3 of 4 power steering hoses and that noise does not happen at startup anymore.
Hi,was just watching your video,I am going to order the cable,I have the exact truck.My truck is a 2003 King Ranch 4x4 . The only problem that I have is the rust,rocker panels,both sides,also the roof,paint is shot,if you were wanting to sell yours I would be interested,nice video
What would be making that noise when you cranked at the very end of video? Had some similar issues with my 2001 F150 Lariat with corrosion on positive terminal, copper clamp at end of positive wire where it fastens to + terminal broke - had to vise grip it on. And single click from starter and only getting it cranked by tapping on starter. But my truck when cranking in cold weather was making same whine noise. (Thanks for vid!)
The whining noise is the power steering pump, it seems “normal” for these trucks to whine at startup in the cold. I flushed all the fluid but it didn’t really help.
I have a 2002 Ford F-150. I have replaced the battery battery terminals However the power cable from the battery to the starter is in bad condition I ran a jumper cable from the positive battery post down To the starter and I can spend the starter but it doesn't engage and it still will not start .... Please advise Any help would be greatly appreciated
Nice video! I’m fairly new to working on my own vehicle. I was replacing my starter when one of the wires came apart due to corrosion. I was figuring I’d have to get towed into a garage to get a new connector wire installed when I decided to check the internet. Your video was very helpful. My one question is about torquing the nuts and bolts. I can’t imagine you got a torque wrench in there. What did you do to get the proper torque?
I didn’t actually properly torque all the fasteners using a torque wrench, some I just did by hand/guess. So I guess technically those ones aren’t torqued properly...
On my 2000 f150, everything fit on the harness except the ground point at the starter was too small to fit on the original bolt. Should I drill the opening on it to fit or splice a bigger ground point on the end of it? Thanks
Great video! I’m having issues with the battery light coming on intermittently in 2004 expedition 4.6. Now it won’t turn over anymore and I can see a little smoke coming from the battery cables close to the terminals. I still have power just no crank??
I got a 2001. F150 the wires from starter burnt op my manifold and guy supposed to fix it but the be attery drains completely overnight do you think if I replaced with complete new cables like you did. Gotta be dead short. Idk
I'm not sure. You will want to find out what is drawing from your battery at all times. Use a digital volt ohm meter and pull fuses one at a time to see when the draw goes down. There are lots of tutorials on UA-cam. Good luck.
I just replaced the starter and the battery and battery terminals and my 1998 f150 and now I'm getting no power no crank no start what do you think it's the problem
Thank you for this video very informative. 1 question the instructional book you were using. What is name of the book and please include the number located in the front insert. Thank you.
Are these the same cables that would be used in a 2001 expedition? I cannot seem to find a cable assembly for a 2001 Expedition anywhere but the cables follow the same structure as the assembly you bought.
@@InternetDude Turns out the Expedition cable assembly part no. is 1L1Z-14300-AA. I think they are actually the same part, the suffix characters are exactly the same and like I said before, the entire assembly you purchased follows the exact structure of the F150. Just as a side note, my Expedition looks exactly the same as your F150 in the front. It's funny seeing things reused.
Viston is in plymouth mi, it used to be the Ford plant 40 years ago, my friend retire from viston they made parts for ford motor company, the plant is a different company now ,but not sure what, i just change my start on 2002 ford 150, 23 years now the starter lasted that long and over 300,000 miles!
For my truck the root cause was a failed starter. I replaced the cables because of the corrosion and poor connection mainly at the positive battery terminal. Since making this video 5 years ago I have replaced the starter with a remanufactured Ford Motorcraft one from RockAuto because after some time the starter failed again when it was cold out. I have not had any further issues. I would highly recommend you buy the new reman Ford Motrcraft starter if you need one. amzn.to/3T1Tpa5
My 97. F-150 shortbed,4×4,has an extra ground wire and the other new starter supposed to work doesn't have the extra ground wire.I was wondering which starter to use, not sure if the starter is bad , the wire on the frame rail your talking about looks like it could have shorted out, I tested the battery it's fine and I also replacing the exhaust manifold.The heat from the holes in the manifold could have damaged the wire.My friend has rebuilt starters for me for $9.I could take the starter back, I have the bolt to get out, the one you used the wobbler and 2 extension.Still don't understand the difference of the ground wire coming from the starter motor, not the solenoid, to the frame,auto store claim both are right, common sense would be to use the same kind that was on it with the ground from the starter motor to the frame.I have a difficult time getting parts right when the vehicle is a model change year.1997 was definitely a model change year.My 2004 Volvo is a model change year and have to order everything 3 times and pay for shipping even when they order the wrong part, the continuous $8 shipping fees add up.
I’ve been having cable issues for a couple months. Every time I turn sharp my cables shift. Truck won’t start till I wiggle them. I’m having it looked at because it may be the connection to the starter/selsnoid
First off don’t be a dick. Second off if your gonna try and work on your truck get in there and quit being a weeny and expecting to follow a video second for second. Use your brain….. look at what is holding it on and take it off and keep going until it comes off? Not very hard? Try that before you make dumb remarks
I owed the guy I bought the truck from a favor, otherwise I would have never bought it and looked it over better, when he said it needs exhaust work, he wasn't lying,both exhaust manifold are unsalvageable.4.6 is in my ex girlfriend Lincoln and only trouble with it has been the fuel pump, it's a 2000 with 60,000 miles,1 owner, garage kept and obviously not drove much
Hey not sure that you will see this but I was gonna ask if you could do a titan v8 ford 4-150 the cables I got don't look like that but I pretty sure there the right ones I don't know where to wire it my uncle took the cables off before I got to see how to put them back on and I've just been stuck on it for the longest
Alright ik I may would dumb but I was replacing that same harness and when I got records putting the wires on the relay I noticed that there was a wire coming from the firewall and the alternator what part of the relay does those connect to
Hi, I don't understand what you're asking. I don't touch any wires that go from the firewall to the alternator in this video. Pause my video when I have a closeup of the relay and see how it compares to your situation.
@@InternetDude on my bad well theres a red short wire coming from the upper firewall and there's a black wire coming from the alternator and they're suppose to connect to the selonoid
Put it on where the cable connections touch the other metals electrical parts, no need at the battery terminals though. Just a light coating helps protect them.
Is that a ground wire bolted with the starter (not the solenoid wires)??.i just purchased a 97 f150 4❌4 from my neighbor and that wire is not connected ..also its transmission fluid being dumped all on and around the starter..any suggestions for me from anyone would be highly appreciated!
@@InternetDude That hasn't been my experience, I want one to work properly when I change one. I've had rebuilt starters go bad pretty quickly, and get stranded. .Then have to do the job all over again. Keep buying rebuilt ones, you'll find out the hard way!
Actually I'm sorry you are right in the video. I retried with 13mm 6point socket. Didn't had it placed on all the way due to negative wire was in the way. And socket was hard to placed on. Due to everything else was closed together, with hardly no leverage. But got everything done on it. Thanks
I desperately need this part but Ford is saying this won't fit my 1997 F150 4.2L 6cylinder...and I don't want to order a $100 part to find out it won't fit. I'm at a total loss right now my truck is sitting
I got it from RockAuto a couple years ago, I heard the price went up by like triple or more last year maybe due to supply and demand? Check RockAuto for best pricing.
Buenas noches tengo una Ford 150 año 97 y atrás d dónde se ubica el líquido d frenos está un alambre d dos polos suelto y quiero saber dónde va conectado si me hacen favor d decirme se los agradezco
@@InternetDude they both work well I personally use coke when needed if i don't have time to clean the terminals ill pour it on the chemical reaction stops the crystallization from growing and when I can clean terminals ill pour a lil bit on wait a min and wipe clean just in case lol
Ok this specific harness is discontinued and the rapist selling them want $400-$599.00 for them. The harness for the 1999 looks the same and is 100.00 , why is this?
I just looked at RockAuto who is usually discounted and wow $500. Just yikes!! If you can wait a few months you might want to wait and see if prices go back down. Or keep an eye on eBay in case you can find a cheap one.
InternetDude It is NOT going down ,everyone is price gouging and charging this because it’s discontinued, the same thing happened to the older Ford powerstroke 7.3 diesel harnesses, you can’t get them. Anyways, eBay has this particular one for $405.00 and that’s criminal, HOWEVER, the same harness from a 1999 F150 works and it is still $100.00; if you look at them both side by side you can see they are almost identical, the post connection on the positive side is the only deviation.I just ordered it and Ile post a follow up video on how it works out. This kind of thing makes me sick.
Que puedo hacer, mi carro no enciende le he cambiado el selenoide de arranque , alternador,batería y aún así no ensiende pero ay luz adentro de la camioneta cuál cree que pueda ser la solución para mí camioneta 🛻🛻🛻🛻 gracias
Thank you for your video. It is easy to understand thanks to your clear and careful explanations and camerawork. It is very helpful for me as I don't have the F150 but a 2003 Explorer Sport Trac with a suspect positive battery cable that I think I will need to replace. Your video gave me some valuable insight as to how to do this job.
The job itself should be pretty much identical for your vehicle compared to the F150
Very detailed. Exactly what I was looking for. Great job.
👍🏻
Great video, unfortunately the cable is now on back order everywhere so finding one is proving to be a real pain in the ass.
Have you tried RockAuto & Amazon also? I got mine from RockAuto, it was cheaper than the dealer.
Rock Auto don't sell this exact setup
I saw that Rock Auto sells a battery to switch and battery to ground cable that look like you could use the combo of the two instead of the one piece wire harness and save a lot of $$$. Except that you would not have a fuselink if you use the two separate cables as replacement. What does the fuselink rectangular box thing do? Would using the to separate cables setup work? Parts are STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS A694UDC (negative) and STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS A634TA (positive) on Rock Auto.
Enjoyed the video; it was helpful and this will help me with my 99 f150.
Glad it helped
Thanks so much for posting this. I just ordered one today and was wondering if anyone posted a dyi video yet. You da man!!!!
Thanks 😁
What was the awful noise when you started it? Thanks for your advice and suggestions.
The one at 19:46? That's radio static, the radio volume was up and the reception was bad. Or do you mean the groan noise at 22:24? That is the power steering pump groaning due to small air bubbles being in the system. I have since replaced 3 of 4 power steering hoses and that noise does not happen at startup anymore.
Very, very, good video. I hope your garage was warm! Thank you.
👍
Hi,was just watching your video,I am going to order the cable,I have the exact truck.My truck is a 2003 King Ranch 4x4 . The only problem that I have is the rust,rocker panels,both sides,also the roof,paint is shot,if you were wanting to sell yours I would be interested,nice video
Mine is not for sale. I had all the rust fixed on mine at a body shop - above windshield, new rocker panels, cab corners, patch over left wheel well.
Thanks for all your help and advice!
Sure thing!
What would be making that noise when you cranked at the very end of video? Had some similar issues with my 2001 F150 Lariat with corrosion on positive terminal, copper clamp at end of positive wire where it fastens to + terminal broke - had to vise grip it on. And single click from starter and only getting it cranked by tapping on starter. But my truck when cranking in cold weather was making same whine noise. (Thanks for vid!)
The whining noise is the power steering pump, it seems “normal” for these trucks to whine at startup in the cold. I flushed all the fluid but it didn’t really help.
Gotta be Wisconsin!
Canada, eh!
those cables look ok to me. great video
I have a 2002 Ford F-150. I have replaced the battery battery terminals
However the power cable from the battery to the starter is in bad condition
I ran a jumper cable from the positive battery post down To the starter and I can spend the starter but it doesn't engage and it still will not start ....
Please advise
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Try asking @ www.fordf150.net/forums/
@InternetDude thank you 👍
Nice video! I’m fairly new to working on my own vehicle. I was replacing my starter when one of the wires came apart due to corrosion. I was figuring I’d have to get towed into a garage to get a new connector wire installed when I decided to check the internet. Your video was very helpful. My one question is about torquing the nuts and bolts. I can’t imagine you got a torque wrench in there. What did you do to get the proper torque?
I didn’t actually properly torque all the fasteners using a torque wrench, some I just did by hand/guess. So I guess technically those ones aren’t torqued properly...
On my 2000 f150, everything fit on the harness except the ground point at the starter was too small to fit on the original bolt. Should I drill the opening on it to fit or splice a bigger ground point on the end of it?
Thanks
If it was me, I would drill the hole larger and use the existing end
@@InternetDude couple turns with a step bit fixed it , thanks
“The negative is fine the positive is suspect” 😂😂😂
Thank you very much. Great, instructional video.
😁
Great video! I’m having issues with the battery light coming on intermittently in 2004 expedition 4.6. Now it won’t turn over anymore and I can see a little smoke coming from the battery cables close to the terminals. I still have power just no crank??
Hmm smoke coming from electric connections is always bad. Inspect all wiring and connectors, something is clearly not right.
InternetDude buying new wires
I got a 2001. F150 the wires from starter burnt op my manifold and guy supposed to fix it but the be attery drains completely overnight do you think if I replaced with complete new cables like you did. Gotta be dead short. Idk
I'm not sure. You will want to find out what is drawing from your battery at all times. Use a digital volt ohm meter and pull fuses one at a time to see when the draw goes down. There are lots of tutorials on UA-cam. Good luck.
Me encantó buen trabajo oy lo are.
Thanks
I just replaced the starter and the battery and battery terminals and my 1998 f150 and now I'm getting no power no crank no start what do you think it's the problem
I would guess you have something hooked up wrong or the ground wire is not connected.
I’m currently looking for that same battery cable replacement for my 2000 Ford Expedition. I can’t find one anywhere 😭😭😢
RockAuto, eBay, dealership, Amazon, etc.
Thank you for this video very informative. 1 question the instructional book you were using. What is name of the book and please include the number located in the front insert. Thank you.
It is a factory shop manual I bought off eBay. Just search for one there, they come up for sale from time to time.
Excellent video thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching
What was the manual you were using as a guide to fix your vehicle in this video?
I have a set of OEM Ford shop manuals that I bought off eBay.
@@InternetDude Thanks for your quick reply and your helpful video
That's pretty good information for me.
Glad to hear it!
Are these the same cables that would be used in a 2001 expedition? I cannot seem to find a cable assembly for a 2001 Expedition anywhere but the cables follow the same structure as the assembly you bought.
There’s a good chance of that. These SuperCrew trucks are basically identical to the Expy from the front seats forward.
@@InternetDude I may just take the plunge and buy myself a set after I check the current set on my truck. Thank you.
@@InternetDude Turns out the Expedition cable assembly part no. is 1L1Z-14300-AA. I think they are actually the same part, the suffix characters are exactly the same and like I said before, the entire assembly you purchased follows the exact structure of the F150.
Just as a side note, my Expedition looks exactly the same as your F150 in the front. It's funny seeing things reused.
Viston is in plymouth mi, it used to be the Ford plant 40 years ago, my friend retire from viston they made parts for ford motor company, the plant is a different company now ,but not sure what, i just change my start on 2002 ford 150, 23 years now the starter lasted that long and over 300,000 miles!
I wound up a few years later buying a reman Ford starter. The cheaper rebuilt starter would fail once in a while in winter, very rarely though.
So is the problem the starter or the cable? I am havi g the same issue but I fo not have power in the interior.
For my truck the root cause was a failed starter. I replaced the cables because of the corrosion and poor connection mainly at the positive battery terminal. Since making this video 5 years ago I have replaced the starter with a remanufactured Ford Motorcraft one from RockAuto because after some time the starter failed again when it was cold out. I have not had any further issues. I would highly recommend you buy the new reman Ford Motrcraft starter if you need one. amzn.to/3T1Tpa5
I guess my qustion is will a bad starter keep the radio or anything from powering in the interior.
My 97. F-150 shortbed,4×4,has an extra ground wire and the other new starter supposed to work doesn't have the extra ground wire.I was wondering which starter to use, not sure if the starter is bad , the wire on the frame rail your talking about looks like it could have shorted out, I tested the battery it's fine and I also replacing the exhaust manifold.The heat from the holes in the manifold could have damaged the wire.My friend has rebuilt starters for me for $9.I could take the starter back, I have the bolt to get out, the one you used the wobbler and 2 extension.Still don't understand the difference of the ground wire coming from the starter motor, not the solenoid, to the frame,auto store claim both are right, common sense would be to use the same kind that was on it with the ground from the starter motor to the frame.I have a difficult time getting parts right when the vehicle is a model change year.1997 was definitely a model change year.My 2004 Volvo is a model change year and have to order everything 3 times and pay for shipping even when they order the wrong part, the continuous $8 shipping fees add up.
I’ve been having cable issues for a couple months. Every time I turn sharp my cables shift. Truck won’t start till I wiggle them. I’m having it looked at because it may be the connection to the starter/selsnoid
It sure sounds like a bad connection
If you're going to do a video do it right please show exactly how you take it out would help people thank you
space is limited, filming is not easy there
First off don’t be a dick. Second off if your gonna try and work on your truck get in there and quit being a weeny and expecting to follow a video second for second. Use your brain….. look at what is holding it on and take it off and keep going until it comes off? Not very hard? Try that before you make dumb remarks
So cold you could hear a nearby Walrus at the end 😏
LOL
I owed the guy I bought the truck from a favor, otherwise I would have never bought it and looked it over better, when he said it needs exhaust work, he wasn't lying,both exhaust manifold are unsalvageable.4.6 is in my ex girlfriend Lincoln and only trouble with it has been the fuel pump, it's a 2000 with 60,000 miles,1 owner, garage kept and obviously not drove much
Hey not sure that you will see this but I was gonna ask if you could do a titan v8 ford 4-150 the cables I got don't look like that but I pretty sure there the right ones I don't know where to wire it my uncle took the cables off before I got to see how to put them back on and I've just been stuck on it for the longest
This is a Triton Ford V-8 F-150
Alright ik I may would dumb but I was replacing that same harness and when I got records putting the wires on the relay I noticed that there was a wire coming from the firewall and the alternator what part of the relay does those connect to
Hi, I don't understand what you're asking. I don't touch any wires that go from the firewall to the alternator in this video. Pause my video when I have a closeup of the relay and see how it compares to your situation.
@@InternetDude on my bad well theres a red short wire coming from the upper firewall and there's a black wire coming from the alternator and they're suppose to connect to the selonoid
Where did u apply the electrical grease at? Just curious where i should and should not put it on
Put it on where the cable connections touch the other metals electrical parts, no need at the battery terminals though. Just a light coating helps protect them.
@@InternetDude ok gotcha man thanks appreciate the reply
Is that a ground wire bolted with the starter (not the solenoid wires)??.i just purchased a 97 f150 4❌4 from my neighbor and that wire is not connected ..also its transmission fluid being dumped all on and around the starter..any suggestions for me from anyone would be highly appreciated!
Ask @ www.fordf150.net/forums/
What part is this called mines got melted on my starter and idk what the harness is called I can’t find it for my Dodge Charger
Probably starter battery cable or similar, I'm not sure what Dodge would call it exactly. Google it.
Cant find the part on amazon anymore. Any idea where I can find one just like the one you used
L H RockAuto.com or maybe Ford dealer?
Its $500
I always buy a new starter, as hard as they are to change I won't take a chance using a rebuilt one!
Starters are one of the simplest things, if rebuilt they may be better than cheap aftermarket starters. There are very few parts in them.
@@InternetDude That hasn't been my experience, I want one to work properly when I change one. I've had rebuilt starters go bad pretty quickly, and get stranded. .Then have to do the job all over again. Keep buying rebuilt ones, you'll find out the hard way!
So far I’ve never had a problem with a rebuilt, same for alternators, just my experience.
@@InternetDude you will eventually
@@ManikMekanik correct ford 12volt required 15 volt to not set service engigne light had to have new alt not rebuilt.
Thanks
Problem with alot of corrosion problems is a weak alternator and or batteries bad grounds of course
OK
Nothing wrong with using dielectric grease, just don't put it in between the contacts.
That is correct, it's more for the area around the connection.
Nothing close to the same of my starter on my 1997 ford f150.
The link to your cable - the cost is currently $428.88 USD.
Wow yeah I think the price went up due to covid. I think supply dried up. It’s possible the price may drop in the future if production increases.
@@InternetDude looks like its been discontinued. I found some other chinese knockoffs of OEM. thanks for the video!
Did you end up using the Chinese version? Where's you find it and did it work?
$371.79 as of December 22, 2021.
🤯
is the 5.4 harness the same as the 4.6?
I think so
You had to remove the starter to pull that cable out or what? I need to replace the cable but I'd rather not mess with the starter if possible.
Shouldn’t need to remove the starter in your case.
@@InternetDude awesome thanks for the help seriously sir. Now I just gotta find the damn cable harness for my 2000 F150 seems to be very hard to find.
What size is the positive cable ?
I don’t know
What's the link to the battery replacement terminals?
should be in the video description box
I have 03 it's not 13mm nut on negative off the starter. Alot of play on a 13mm socket. 12 too small, thinking standard socket.
Perhaps that nut was replaced at some point??
Actually I'm sorry you are right in the video. I retried with 13mm 6point socket. Didn't had it placed on all the way due to negative wire was in the way. And socket was hard to placed on. Due to everything else was closed together, with hardly no leverage. But got everything done on it. Thanks
Where did you buy the positive cable
I got it from RockAuto but if you look in the description and grab the part number you can Google it to find it at other places.
Replacing the wire did you find any in line fuzes? Have not watched the complete video yet
No
Good job!
1997-2003 F150 Starter & Battery Cable Replacement
Can you or someone please confirm 100% that this part will fit a 2000 f-150 4.6 V8? Thank you
A Ford dealer parts department could verify for sure with your VIN
how different is it from the 4.2 harness
I don’t know
I desperately need this part but Ford is saying this won't fit my 1997 F150 4.2L 6cylinder...and I don't want to order a $100 part to find out it won't fit. I'm at a total loss right now my truck is sitting
Search RockAuto.com for a starter cable for your truck, see if it looks similar.
Damn it’s cold up there!
You got that right!!
How much did the new cables cost?
It was around $100 if I remember correctly
@@InternetDude If it's Motorcraft they cost about $450
I got it from RockAuto a couple years ago, I heard the price went up by like triple or more last year maybe due to supply and demand? Check RockAuto for best pricing.
Could I get the link for the cable
The replacement battery cable is amzn.to/2E0qhJQ
Were did you get the shop manual ?
eBay
@@InternetDude Whats the name of it?
Dayton White just search 2003 f150 shop manual on eBay. I prefer paper over CD / digital copy. Most will be digital / CD.
Buenas noches tengo una Ford 150 año 97 y atrás d dónde se ubica el líquido d frenos está un alambre d dos polos suelto y quiero saber dónde va conectado si me hacen favor d decirme se los agradezco
There was a recall on the F150 brake master cylinder, a fire hazard. Please look into that safety issue, and don't re-connect the wiring yet.
thank s for showing this is very handy my friend
😁
Have you ever poured Coca-Cola on terminals to stop it from corrosion and crystallizing to stop bakingsoda powder works also I believe
I haven’t
@@InternetDude they both work well I personally use coke when needed if i don't have time to clean the terminals ill pour it on the chemical reaction stops the crystallization from growing and when I can clean terminals ill pour a lil bit on wait a min and wipe clean just in case lol
The replacement battery cable is amzn.to/3nHQArC
Ford really dropped the ball when they came out with that body style in 97, took'em long enough to stop making it....lol
Best F150 ‘92-‘96. Second best 97-03 IMHO
Great video 👍
Thanks
Gheeesh " too much yakin' 😫
Here is the short version:
1. remove starter & cable
2. install new starter & cable
Will this part fit a 2003 ford sporttrac?
I don’t know, I would guess not.
If you would have bought a Chevy you would not have to had to change out that Ford Starter.
You're probably right ;)
Yeah cos the truck would be at the junk yard next to the other chevys
I used Coca-Cola to clean my battery terminals it eats and clean all that baking soda acid looken thing!
Imagine what it does to your insides!!
Ok this specific harness is discontinued and the rapist selling them want $400-$599.00 for them. The harness for the 1999 looks the same and is 100.00 , why is this?
I just looked at RockAuto who is usually discounted and wow $500. Just yikes!! If you can wait a few months you might want to wait and see if prices go back down. Or keep an eye on eBay in case you can find a cheap one.
InternetDude It is NOT going down ,everyone is price gouging and charging this because it’s discontinued, the same thing happened to the older Ford powerstroke 7.3 diesel harnesses, you can’t get them. Anyways, eBay has this particular one for $405.00 and that’s criminal, HOWEVER, the same harness from a 1999 F150 works and it is still $100.00; if you look at them both side by side you can see they are almost identical, the post connection on the positive side is the only deviation.I just ordered it and Ile post a follow up video on how it works out. This kind of thing makes me sick.
What is the part # of the other one?
GENX did the part for the 1999 F150 work for this scenario? The cable battery cable harness setup the same?
What size engine ????
5.4L, process should be identical for the 4.6L and similar for the 4.2L.
that sound may be the alternator, dirt or rocks fell into it
OK
Que puedo hacer, mi carro no enciende le he cambiado el selenoide de arranque , alternador,batería y aún así no ensiende pero ay luz adentro de la camioneta cuál cree que pueda ser la solución para mí camioneta 🛻🛻🛻🛻 gracias
Try turning the engine by hand on the front crankshaft bolt using a socket and ratchet.
Stopped watching it 9:53 whenever you said don't use Dielectric grease 🥱
Why? Have you looked up the definition of dielectric?