Is it possibly different in different areas? I'm in a electrical program and two master electrician professors have told me to do it as he said in video.
@@astroid99 this panel is square D. not sure about other areas but this is a common brand in North American. If this was a receptacle then yes it would wrap around the screw
I have a hell of a time getting the plate and wire to line up and the plate not twist and everything get all caddywampus after tightening. I didn’t even know you could hook it around.
Exactly. That works great until something changes a few years down the road and all the breakers need to shift down two slots. Looks nice, but it's not practical for future work.
@@Skips1964 Not to mention the fact that a lot of residential panels only take minis/tandems or double poles in a certain number of the upper slots. I don't think our inspector around here would go for it either.
@@Jester_The_Jynxster what panels do you use that only allow tandems or 2-poles in a certain part? Ive never seen one that i couldnt put a single pole or a tandem or a 2-pole or even 3-pole in them
I think the idea is if you do a 90 vs a curve you can cause extra resistance and heat. Never seen someone prove it though with science … would be neat to see a video on that
Houses i wired over 15yrs ago are still fine and i do 90's. But i like to go down past the breaker some and then back up that way there is extra wire for any future work.
@@sparkynate91 that’s fine, I do that, but people forget when cable goes under load it tries to straighten out, This is extremely obvious on Welding and generator (1Mva) cable, They can break your ankle.
@@dogwalker666 it does. People also forget that it expands and contracts once under load which is why you have to make sure your wires are always tight
@@DingleFlop My post was sarcasm. I always take a wire down the length of the box, then back up to the breaker or bus. Tuck it to the side and it's still neat enough.
@@bourbonrebel5515 For most people, I suppose never if the home isn't built to outlast current electrical standards. But there are fairly common exceptions, like a service upgrade where you probably need to swap out the box. Or just moving a breaker/circuit to a different part of the bus that makes more sense for an additional circuit, especially once you start running out room and you are trying to squeeze another 240V in there while keeping the phases somewhat balanced.
@@MrSamsamsammy looks like it’s a 6-2 or 8-2 romex so it would have to be colored. Failed an inspection for an 8-2 being taped in the panel and disconnect had to use a red paint marker made for wire, I forget the name but it had a concave tip to color half the wire. This is in Florida and was an asshole inspector.
I’d suggest you leave the wires a bit longer. In the case that panel needs upgraded, there is so little available wire to work with. I think that leaving a little loop before connecting to the breaker is a good idea.
It’s pretty but every cable that gets cut into a panel should be able to reach any breaker position in the panel. Also as many have pointed out Square D breakers use a clamp to hold the wire in place so it doesn’t matter which side of the screw the wire goes in. However most other brands of breakers utilize just a screw to hold the wire in place.
Rule of thumb, always go to the bottom of the panel, then back up to the breaker position. An extra foot or 2 of slack is an electrician’s best friend.
Another suggestion: not to be a nit-picker but try start ing from the bottom, land all the grounds first dressing them as far back in the panel as neatly possible, then the neutrals, hots last. When you start from the bottom of the bus & ground bars it gives you something to build off of. Makes it quicker & neater. Time is money.
A típ for u go all the way to the bottom of the box and loop up all the way up again and then start working your way back down so if anything happens you have that extra good 2 feet of wire….if something goes wrong how u doing it u don’t have 1” of extra wire to pull
@@kaines8819 Not an electrician, but hot and neutrals long enough to reach any breaker position in the box plus 2" when laid out nicely is more than enough. There is no way I could have dealt with 100ft of pointless extra wire lying in my panel. I doubt I could even get the door closed. Grounds need to be long enough to access a comfortably laid out ground bar, even if that panel is not currently using one. I had to deal with grounds cut very short on my main panel, and it was a mess to separate them from the neutrals when I installed a new service entrance panel.
I was thinking the exact same thing if they ever have to replace that panel for some reason the homeowners gonna be screwed if they can’t get the same brand same set up.
Simple , that’s what wire nuts are for. Also proper soldering and shrink tubing ca extend any wire , I do that specially when changing main panel. But usually you don’t need that.
Someone should open up a live panel for this guy when a few of those circuits are under a good load and show him those hard bent 90’s and what they look like behind a heat gun.
Just call an electrician so you don't burn your house down. There is a plate between the screw and the wire. It doesn't matter what side of the screw the wire is because of the plate.
The breaker uses a clamping pressure; the screw turning doesn't affect the downward clamp. It's not like the screw terminal on a receptacle, where direction of the J-hook matters
#1, bushing required on any connectors larger than 3/4". #2 SqD QO has a double lug/washer so it doesn't matter which side of the screw the wire is on. FYI, SqD QO smaller breakers with the double lug IS rated for 2 wires as long as they are the same AWG...each breaker has the listing on it. #3, also do not run the wires tight to the outside edge, the cover screws can and will damage the conductors
Also always treating like it is live. That way you don't build habits that can cause a real problem when you do work live. Wire management control of the space in front of the panel is very important
Maybe you should take a closer look at those breakers. They're made for solid or stranded wire connections. If not then those are most likely counterfeit and can be checked by serial number ranges.
@@PETKel-m6n I work in the metro Detroit area, residential only. The only 120V 30A load I've ever seen was an outdoor outlet to power an RV/motor home. All other 30A circuits in my 30 years experience have been 240V.
@@Jeff-xy7fv well I live in Pittsburgh... Which also is in the USA....there are many devices....larger A/C units....refrigerators and other appliances that are larger loads....if that were the case by code all #10/2 would be black and red with no neutral....by code ...white is only supposed to be used for neutral or grounded conductor....over 35 years in commercial industrial and residential...I guess when you're limited you only see certain things
You should be able to see copper. I have see too many times the insulation was found under the screw. Also leave a drip dip at the 90 so water will run down the wire and drip off the dip and not into the breaker.
Electricians arguing about which way screws tighten in the comments while electrical engineers YT comments are arguing about which programming language to use for their system really shows the difference in intellect.
Thank you. I enjoyed your video and the comments. I was trained by an old master. I am 76. Read the comments and learn. You will live a healthier, longer life.
Pro tip: land your home runs from bottom to top in ascending order rather than descending. The conductors will lay more nicely, hold the previous conductors down, and ensure you have enough space to run and terminate.
Orientation of wire under “screw” doesn’t matter for Hom/QO breakers or similar. Those models accept two conductors. On that, the confuctor doesn’t wrap around the lug. Rather, the plate applies pressure to the conductor by tightening the lug. Hence why two conductors properly fit under the lug and it doesn’t matter which side you land the conductor on.
breakers have tabs that the conductor is under and it doesn't matter what side the conductor is under . you only have to worry about the screw direction when tightening if the conductor is in direct contact and is clamped by the screw.
I used excessive wires to install the breakers. then I turned the items on in the home and made sure the furnace, and the refrigerator, freezer etc. were running. i then went to the source and checked the amps. i then shifted the breakers to balance the load on both legs buy shifting the breakers when the load was balance, i then went back in and trimmed the wires to look great.
First off, i always go down past the breaker and then back up JUST IN CASE the next guy needs to change something. That way he doesnt have to splice anything. And second, i didnt know you could run that many homeruns in a 2" 2 screw connector... what state are you in?
Bending radius should be more or less that of a soda can on those conductors, otherwise you run the risk of creating a hot point on that bend in the future.
You don't need slack in a panel. The wires shouldnt need to be relocated considering it would get power literally anywhere inside that panel. Doesn't make sense to put a circuit where the space is already being taken up. So you sound pretty dumb
@@electricianjoe You're really not supposed to splice inside a panel. I also notice you didnt mark the whites you're using as hots, and failed to do so on your service conductors as well. As is, this panel would fail in most jurisdictions.
That 90 is too sharp, you should have more of a radius as it lands on the breaker. Also square D QO breakers are rated for two circuits on each breaker if necessary, having the wire orientated to the right turn of the screw isn't always necessary either. And is it code compliant to have all those wires coming through the SEU or SER connector top left?
What’s y’all’s thought on making hard 90’s on solid cable? One of my foremans always told me that could create “hot points” he suggested making swooping bends. Panel look awesome though !
I hate that it never worked out. Financial crash 2007-2008 tech school graduate. No work. Laid off. No one wanted to hire a year one greenhorn. Moved on with life and went a different direction. Could never go back to apprentice wages at 36 with a family. if I could go back, I would’ve found a contractor and told them I will work for free for 30 days for an opportunity to be hired.
The pressure plates grab the wire when you tighten the breaker screw. You need not worry about screw rotation direction when terminating a cheap device.
Nope, you should go down the panel and back up then set the 90. This way if you ever have to move a breaker you can do it with out filling the the panel with wire nuts
I’d be a great electrician. I’m ocd and want things done perfectly every time and I have no problem double and triple checking. Just being color blind kinda gets in the way. 😂
I'm an electrician and I'm tired of then saying that u have to act like it's on outlet it doesn't matter where u put the wire it is a crimp connection it doesn't matter
Also, no. You should leave slack in the lines. Don't turn them with no extra wire. Any replacing down the line (corroded end, failed breaker/burnt wire) and you screw the next guy.
I don't see any AFCI or GFCI breakers. 2020 NEC requires: a surge protector, AFCIs for all the general 15 and 20 A receptacles and lighting (including can lights), microwave, refrigerator, smoke detector, furnace GFCIs for kitchen, clothes dryer, range, bathrooms,bidets, AC, garage & outside outlets, garage door openers, air compressor, welders, EV charger. Combo AFCI/GFCI for kitchen small appliance circuits, dishwasher, disposer, & laundry. The only thing that can be left on a standard breaker is a hot water heater and fire alarm.
I like a neatly wired panel. It doesn't look like he made his bends too tight. The contractor I worked for as an apprentice required neat panels. Inspectors see it as a sign of a good wiring job. BUT There's just one Problem. You have your highest current breakers at the wrong end of the buss. They should be on the end closest to the main breaker/lugs. The current for the biggest loads in the house has to travel the entire length of the buss.
I leave many loops in mine, not sure what to call it, like I take them to the corner, then down or up depending where my wires come from I go further than where they land, kinda loopout and back up then a 45,to the breaker, I was taught never to use 90s and leave as rounded as possible, something about the electrons, even with Romex going through the studs, as round as possible
I worked in commercial when I started moved to a company that did residential now im in industrial tho I do get sent to other jobs, they want me to learn everything about the tubing plant so I can be one of the guys sent there
*_FEW THINGS WHEN YOU'RE BENDING YOUR WIRES...:_* Yes, I get it - we want our little wires to look all pretty and stuff. But, the bend radius on those branch circuit wires which so many electricians do makes me nervous. *FOR EXAMPLE IN THIS VIDEO:* NEC specifies various cable and conductor bend ratios such as *_"5 times the diameter of the cable..."_* or *_"8 times the diameter of the conductor..."_* [NEC 300.34]. But, the bend ratio on those branch circuit wires in this video are approximately *1.3 times the diameter of that wire* [0:40]. Now, 'technically' there is no NEC code specification for individual conductors in applications less than 1,000 volts - so it's not necessarily a code violation. But, there are bend radius limits for a reason.
The wires are clamped not rotated around the screw. You are confusing receptacle screws with breaker screws.
Is it possibly different in different areas? I'm in a electrical program and two master electrician professors have told me to do it as he said in video.
@@astroid99 this panel is square D. not sure about other areas but this is a common brand in North American. If this was a receptacle then yes it would wrap around the screw
@@jeffvan6355 ahh I get you, thankyou m8.
Only resi. Screws, commercial receps have plates too😉
Show us a modern breaker that doesn’t have a plate…
Those sqd breakers are rated for two wires and have a clamping plate so it doesn't matter which side you put it on.
Lmao fact
For real not many electricians know that. I blow my boss mind the other day wend I told him that.
Facts
Yeah this guy acts like hes wiring up a receptacle...
I have a hell of a time getting the plate and wire to line up and the plate not twist and everything get all caddywampus after tightening. I didn’t even know you could hook it around.
You can put wire in either side there clamps, and they are rated for two ccc
U beat me to it
I'm not sure where he learned that it's not a device
Yes either side works.
I was wondering that myself because it’s not even stranded and breakers have those little guides in them anyway
If you watch his other videos you can watch him install two romex wires in a pancake.
90° put extra stress on the cables, And modern MCB's have cage clamps,
Fine line between clean and inaccessible to maintenance in the future.
You should leave a little bit of extra wire to be able to move the braker if need be
Exactly. That works great until something changes a few years down the road and all the breakers need to shift down two slots. Looks nice, but it's not practical for future work.
I do a loop down then up to a 90 that way if any time in the future the next owner wants a panel replaced, there is plenty of wire to do so.
@@Jester_The_Jynxster Yep. Pretty sure this would not pass code in my area.
@@Skips1964 Not to mention the fact that a lot of residential panels only take minis/tandems or double poles in a certain number of the upper slots. I don't think our inspector around here would go for it either.
@@Jester_The_Jynxster what panels do you use that only allow tandems or 2-poles in a certain part? Ive never seen one that i couldnt put a single pole or a tandem or a 2-pole or even 3-pole in them
I've always heard more a rib cage pattern and not to bend sharp 90s.
Indeed curve is far better than a 90.
I think the idea is if you do a 90 vs a curve you can cause extra resistance and heat. Never seen someone prove it though with science … would be neat to see a video on that
Houses i wired over 15yrs ago are still fine and i do 90's. But i like to go down past the breaker some and then back up that way there is extra wire for any future work.
@@sparkynate91 that’s fine, I do that, but people forget when cable goes under load it tries to straighten out, This is extremely obvious on Welding and generator (1Mva) cable, They can break your ankle.
@@dogwalker666 it does. People also forget that it expands and contracts once under load which is why you have to make sure your wires are always tight
Phew, does your inspector let you get away with 20 wires in a 2 inch service connector ?
Lol i wish we could still do that here
Phew, I had that question too. it looks nice... I subscribed, but I am glad I am checking comments. This panel wouldn't pass.
First thing i noticed was the huge ball of wires out that connector. Wont pass if you tried
Getting the wires in the panel has never been so quick 🤣😅
Dude I'm just a helper and thought the same thing
It doesn't matter which side you slot the wire if there's a clamping plate. For bare screw connections, yes.
Oh man this electrical installations on UA-cam are something else. Lol
This English are fantastic!
Yeah, don't leave any slack. Screw the next guy.😂
It's all fun and games until you ARE the next guy...
@@DingleFlop My post was sarcasm. I always take a wire down the length of the box, then back up to the breaker or bus. Tuck it to the side and it's still neat enough.
@@MrNside he was on the same page broski
When would you need the extra slack
@@bourbonrebel5515
For most people, I suppose never if the home isn't built to outlast current electrical standards.
But there are fairly common exceptions, like a service upgrade where you probably need to swap out the box.
Or just moving a breaker/circuit to a different part of the bus that makes more sense for an additional circuit, especially once you start running out room and you are trying to squeeze another 240V in there while keeping the phases somewhat balanced.
I hate when people wire a panel so tight! Extra wire is the electrician's friend.
That’s usually left on the floor as electricians don’t know what a brooms for
Even in our UK, we still use ample spare wire, in case the design is changed.
Crimp splices
@@hiscifi2986in the uk you guys use conduit chances are if you need to change something he’s going to have to run a new wire anyway
@@Oto_Travel That's a fact. That's seems like all trades in my area. Freaking annoying how lazy they are.
2020 NEC 110.14(A) requires circuit breakers to be torqued
Yeah but who does that, just tighten enough. Like a man😂😂
Need to tape that hot white wire.
Can't be tape either. Has to be permanent means of identification. You have to Sharpie it another color.
@@onecrazywheel tape is perfectly acceptable and always has been for reidentifying conductors as part of a cable assembly
@@MrSamsamsammy wire smaller than number 6 cannot be taped has to be colored I use paint markers usually
@@austinhidalgo7077 it can’t be taped if it’s not part of a cable assembly
@@MrSamsamsammy looks like it’s a 6-2 or 8-2 romex so it would have to be colored. Failed an inspection for an 8-2 being taped in the panel and disconnect had to use a red paint marker made for wire, I forget the name but it had a concave tip to color half the wire. This is in Florida and was an asshole inspector.
I’d suggest you leave the wires a bit longer. In the case that panel needs upgraded, there is so little available wire to work with. I think that leaving a little loop before connecting to the breaker is a good idea.
It’s pretty but every cable that gets cut into a panel should be able to reach any breaker position in the panel. Also as many have pointed out Square D breakers use a clamp to hold the wire in place so it doesn’t matter which side of the screw the wire goes in. However most other brands of breakers utilize just a screw to hold the wire in place.
Those square D QO breakers are designed to have 2 wire on them. One on each side of screw.
Thank you and thank you once again for all those tips and videos🎉
Rule of thumb, always go to the bottom of the panel, then back up to the breaker position. An extra foot or 2 of slack is an electrician’s best friend.
Was looking for this comment. Totally agree.
Thats how I do it
People complain about the 90 degree bend, then others ask for a 180. I love these comment sections.
Yeah, wire location on a QO makes no difference and both are legal.
Another suggestion: not to be a nit-picker but try start ing from the bottom, land all the grounds first dressing them as far back in the panel as neatly possible, then the neutrals, hots last. When you start from the bottom of the bus & ground bars it gives you something to build off of. Makes it quicker & neater. Time is money.
A típ for u go all the way to the bottom of the box and loop up all the way up again and then start working your way back down so if anything happens you have that extra good 2 feet of wire….if something goes wrong how u doing it u don’t have 1” of extra wire to pull
YES. enough wire to reach any breaker in the box.
yea and in 1/3 of the board you have no more space
@@kaines8819 Not an electrician, but hot and neutrals long enough to reach any breaker position in the box plus 2" when laid out nicely is more than enough. There is no way I could have dealt with 100ft of pointless extra wire lying in my panel. I doubt I could even get the door closed.
Grounds need to be long enough to access a comfortably laid out ground bar, even if that panel is not currently using one. I had to deal with grounds cut very short on my main panel, and it was a mess to separate them from the neutrals when I installed a new service entrance panel.
I was thinking the exact same thing if they ever have to replace that panel for some reason the homeowners gonna be screwed if they can’t get the same brand same set up.
Simple , that’s what wire nuts are for.
Also proper soldering and shrink tubing ca extend any wire , I do that specially when changing main panel.
But usually you don’t need that.
Someone should open up a live panel for this guy when a few of those circuits are under a good load and show him those hard bent 90’s and what they look like behind a heat gun.
Beautiful! Thanks!
Great tips. I like the background muzak. "Kid Charlemagne" remastered for a waiting room
Just call an electrician so you don't burn your house down. There is a plate between the screw and the wire. It doesn't matter what side of the screw the wire is because of the plate.
The breaker uses a clamping pressure; the screw turning doesn't affect the downward clamp. It's not like the screw terminal on a receptacle, where direction of the J-hook matters
It's good practice for any termination point
Excellent job.
#1, bushing required on any connectors larger than 3/4".
#2 SqD QO has a double lug/washer so it doesn't matter which side of the screw the wire is on.
FYI, SqD QO smaller breakers with the double lug IS rated for 2 wires as long as they are the same AWG...each breaker has the listing on it.
#3, also do not run the wires tight to the outside edge, the cover screws can and will damage the conductors
No such bushing requirement for NM smaller than #4.
Also always treating like it is live. That way you don't build habits that can cause a real problem when you do work live. Wire management control of the space in front of the panel is very important
Thanks, I learned something today,awesome
Thanks for sharing 🤙🏽
Very neat and organized.
Why is there a white wire ( neutral conductor color ) connected to a circuit breaker?
What’s the torque setting on the breaker ? And why didn’t you fold the copper over to double it up at the terminal ?
No re-identification tape or label on the neutral that is being used as an L2 on that 220v (50-60 amp) breaker
Do you check and make sure the power is off before you start messing with that or is the power not even on the house at all
Nice to see museum exhibits
Maybe you should take a closer look at those breakers. They're made for solid or stranded wire connections. If not then those are most likely counterfeit and can be checked by serial number ranges.
Excellent advice!!
I have an older 100 amp box,and it has no main breaker. Is there a one in the box that kills the panel or does the meter have to be pulled? Thanks
Get it replaced and updated it probably has more issues you don't see.
Did u torque them down accordingly?
Great advice nice video
That 240 circuit above with a white conductor needs a red identifier on both ends 👍🏼
Only if #14 or #12 conductors. #10 and larger are always 240V, so it's obvious that the white wire is hot.
@@Jeff-xy7fv#10 is not always 240 volt...don't know where you work...there are many 30 amp 120 volt devices
@@PETKel-m6n I work in the metro Detroit area, residential only. The only 120V 30A load I've ever seen was an outdoor outlet to power an RV/motor home. All other 30A circuits in my 30 years experience have been 240V.
@@Jeff-xy7fv well I live in Pittsburgh... Which also is in the USA....there are many devices....larger A/C units....refrigerators and other appliances that are larger loads....if that were the case by code all #10/2 would be black and red with no neutral....by code ...white is only supposed to be used for neutral or grounded conductor....over 35 years in commercial industrial and residential...I guess when you're limited you only see certain things
@@PETKel-m6n Yes, perhaps in the commercial/industrial world you'll run into a lot of different kinds of loads that would never appear in residential.
Does bending the wire too much change the resistance? Can that affect the voltage going through?
You should be able to see copper. I have see too many times the insulation was found under the screw. Also leave a drip dip at the 90 so water will run down the wire and drip off the dip and not into the breaker.
Drip dip I like it.
I like that idea. Anything to keep two enemies apart so they don't fight.
Electricians arguing about which way screws tighten in the comments while electrical engineers YT comments are arguing about which programming language to use for their system really shows the difference in intellect.
Always leave a loop for the future
He puts care into his work.
Too bad he does naively shitty work.
Must get paid by the hour too
My son makes panels beautiful, all day everyday!
Thank you. I enjoyed your video and the comments.
I was trained by an old master. I am 76.
Read the comments and learn. You will live a healthier, longer life.
I didn't know the top bottom thing. Thanks.
Hey junior, breakers are bladed, they have a plate to hold down the wire. Who's your master electrician or do you do scab work
Why are all those circuits jammed up in that ser connector?
Wondering the same!
Pro tip: land your home runs from bottom to top in ascending order rather than descending. The conductors will lay more nicely, hold the previous conductors down, and ensure you have enough space to run and terminate.
How many romexs cables do you have in that connector? I thought only 2 are allowed unless the connector is listed otherwise...
Conduit fill doesn't apply to romex? Tha KO is stuffed. No problems with emf?
Why you didn’t group the wires?
Orientation of wire under “screw” doesn’t matter for Hom/QO breakers or similar. Those models accept two conductors. On that, the confuctor doesn’t wrap around the lug. Rather, the plate applies pressure to the conductor by tightening the lug. Hence why two conductors properly fit under the lug and it doesn’t matter which side you land the conductor on.
breakers have tabs that the conductor is under and it doesn't matter what side the conductor is under . you only have to worry about the screw direction when tightening if the conductor is in direct contact and is clamped by the screw.
Nice I never knew the stripping and cutting wire for the breaker using the breaker. That's pretty cool
next video idea. show us how to make up a 3000 amp breaker
Electricity. The new to the universe
I used excessive wires to install the breakers. then I turned the items on in the home and made sure the furnace, and the refrigerator, freezer etc. were running. i then went to the source and checked the amps. i then shifted the breakers to balance the load on both legs buy shifting the breakers when the load was balance, i then went back in and trimmed the wires to look great.
First off, i always go down past the breaker and then back up JUST IN CASE the next guy needs to change something. That way he doesnt have to splice anything. And second, i didnt know you could run that many homeruns in a 2" 2 screw connector... what state are you in?
Bending radius should be more or less that of a soda can on those conductors, otherwise you run the risk of creating a hot point on that bend in the future.
Yea, electrons don't like going around sharp corners.
I was always taught to leave enough wire to move the breaker anywhere in a panel.
Cool. Now do it again with the proper arc fault breakers.
Will fork terminals help?
I always made up the wires in the back first just so the whole bundle came out looking neatly.
Good info.
Pretty dumb to cut the top wires to length.
Always leave extra length for relocation
You don't need slack in a panel. The wires shouldnt need to be relocated considering it would get power literally anywhere inside that panel. Doesn't make sense to put a circuit where the space is already being taken up. So you sound pretty dumb
You can splice in panels if needed. All a bunch of extra wire is doing is just cluttering up the panel…
@@electricianjoe You're really not supposed to splice inside a panel. I also notice you didnt mark the whites you're using as hots, and failed to do so on your service conductors as well.
As is, this panel would fail in most jurisdictions.
@@TheDarthJesus lolwut? It’s literally code to splice in a panel 🤣
@@jman0870 Which code would that be?
Its beautiful 😢
Thats all neat & tidy. But pita when it comes time to diagnose problem or reconfigure.
Inside Loadcenters, Dont carry neatness too far.
What state is this that does not require a main breaker in the box.
What about the slack for future movement?
Not necessary on breakers cause they have flat plates with notches in each side and the wire won't spin out with the screw.
Thanks for that
That 90 is too sharp, you should have more of a radius as it lands on the breaker. Also square D QO breakers are rated for two circuits on each breaker if necessary, having the wire orientated to the right turn of the screw isn't always necessary either. And is it code compliant to have all those wires coming through the SEU or SER connector top left?
How many wires do you have through one hole?
You should mark the white wire going into the breaker with black marker to indicate it is a hot wire.
Don’t forget to number both your hots and neutrals
Lol
Love those 90s
Leave the wires longer so if you have to reposition the breakers you can
Should you put those right angles tight like that?
90 degree bend? What is the bend radius of that wire?
What’s y’all’s thought on making hard 90’s on solid cable? One of my foremans always told me that could create “hot points” he suggested making swooping bends. Panel look awesome though !
I hate that it never worked out. Financial crash 2007-2008 tech school graduate. No work. Laid off. No one wanted to hire a year one greenhorn. Moved on with life and went a different direction. Could never go back to apprentice wages at 36 with a family. if I could go back, I would’ve found a contractor and told them I will work for free for 30 days for an opportunity to be hired.
The pressure plates grab the wire when you tighten the breaker screw. You need not worry about screw rotation direction when terminating a cheap device.
There rated for to wires but I agree that wen u use 1 wire in a QO or HL breaker it should be done that way
Do u charge by the hr or job
Nope, you should go down the panel and back up then set the 90. This way if you ever have to move a breaker you can do it with out filling the the panel with wire nuts
I’d be a great electrician. I’m ocd and want things done perfectly every time and I have no problem double and triple checking. Just being color blind kinda gets in the way. 😂
They are made to be able to clamp on either side, thats why the wire is clamped, per manufacturer
I'm an electrician and I'm tired of then saying that u have to act like it's on outlet it doesn't matter where u put the wire it is a crimp connection it doesn't matter
Also, no. You should leave slack in the lines. Don't turn them with no extra wire. Any replacing down the line (corroded end, failed breaker/burnt wire) and you screw the next guy.
There's about 6 inches of slack wire when doing it this way. Plenty of slack for everything you just mentioned.
I don't see any AFCI or GFCI breakers.
2020 NEC requires:
a surge protector,
AFCIs for all the general 15 and 20 A receptacles and lighting (including can lights), microwave, refrigerator, smoke detector, furnace
GFCIs for kitchen, clothes dryer, range, bathrooms,bidets, AC, garage & outside outlets, garage door openers, air compressor, welders, EV charger.
Combo AFCI/GFCI for kitchen small appliance
circuits, dishwasher, disposer, & laundry.
The only thing that can be left on a standard breaker is a hot water heater and fire alarm.
I like a neatly wired panel. It doesn't look like he made his bends too tight. The contractor I worked for as an apprentice required neat panels. Inspectors see it as a sign of a good wiring job.
BUT There's just one Problem. You have your highest current breakers at the wrong end of the buss. They should be on the end closest to the main breaker/lugs. The current for the biggest loads in the house has to travel the entire length of the buss.
I leave many loops in mine, not sure what to call it, like I take them to the corner, then down or up depending where my wires come from I go further than where they land, kinda loopout and back up then a 45,to the breaker, I was taught never to use 90s and leave as rounded as possible, something about the electrons, even with Romex going through the studs, as round as possible
I worked in commercial when I started moved to a company that did residential now im in industrial tho I do get sent to other jobs, they want me to learn everything about the tubing plant so I can be one of the guys sent there
*_FEW THINGS WHEN YOU'RE BENDING YOUR WIRES...:_* Yes, I get it - we want our little wires to look all pretty and stuff. But, the bend radius on those branch circuit wires which so many electricians do makes me nervous. *FOR EXAMPLE IN THIS VIDEO:* NEC specifies various cable and conductor bend ratios such as *_"5 times the diameter of the cable..."_* or *_"8 times the diameter of the conductor..."_* [NEC 300.34]. But, the bend ratio on those branch circuit wires in this video are approximately *1.3 times the diameter of that wire* [0:40]. Now, 'technically' there is no NEC code specification for individual conductors in applications less than 1,000 volts - so it's not necessarily a code violation. But, there are bend radius limits for a reason.
What about your white wire going to a breaker, no phasing tape?