Great video! Did you have any issues with the outer synchro plates not sitting flush while you were taking your endplay measurement? I have a tight side and a looser side. Its like the clutch disc wont seat all the way in the outer housing
I didn't. Maybe post a UA-cam short and ask the question so folks can see what you're talking about. Prob would get lot of feedback from more knowledgeable guys than myself
Hey man i just bought a truck the transmission shifts fine but makes a terrible rattle sound I drained the oil it's glittery I open the portion and I found two loose washers any idea where they go ?
Hey I have everything together like in your video which is also the way I took it apart. (I took pictures during disassembly). When I put the counterbalance shaft on the bottom in it spins easily but as soon as I tighten the bolts for the countershaft cover to 20 ft lbs pounds like the manual says the gears become very hard to turn. Is this normal with reused bearings that aren’t bad? It doesn’t spin super easy like yours does in the video, you have to grip it with both hands. I have the washer and thrust bearing on the correct side with the other offset washer on the other side.
Check to make sure your roller bearing at opposite end of the countershaft is fully seated in the housing. If it is, try removing a thrust washer and see if you still have the same issue.
@@robstuckey It seems to spin alright now that I have the whole thing together. I took apart a running one to clean it and reseal and never replaced the bottom bearings because they looked fine. So I never had to seat it. It has some resistance to be turned but the input shaft can be turned with one hand without a whole lot of force so I assume it will be fine.
yeah final assembly video will be out sometime later this week. slide your feeler gauge in between the gear teeth on the input shaft and the third/fourth synchronizer assembly. you are looking for between 0.037" and 0.070". I prefer tighter build and set mine at 0.045". Too much endplay will result in slower, sloppier shifts and possible rattling of the assembly. Too little endplay will result in premature synchro ring wear.
i spent $525 on parts. $365 for the rebuild kit and new first gear. $30 on some more shims, $90 on a new input shaft and $40 for a new input bearing retainer.. i also spent a few hundred bucks on tools/press. to have it rebuilt by someone else was going to cost around $1200.
I love that your casually rebuilding a transmission in your living room 😂
2:20 - Tellus you're single without telling us you're single. Lol.
😂😂😂
Very helpful info, Rob, thank you!
Great video! Did you have any issues with the outer synchro plates not sitting flush while you were taking your endplay measurement? I have a tight side and a looser side. Its like the clutch disc wont seat all the way in the outer housing
I didn't. Maybe post a UA-cam short and ask the question so folks can see what you're talking about. Prob would get lot of feedback from more knowledgeable guys than myself
@@robstuckey ok thank you!
Nah, you're not doing an entire rebuild in the living room hahaha. do you have a lathe in the kitchen too? A welder in your bedroom? 😆
Yes and yes
Hey man i just bought a truck the transmission shifts fine but makes a terrible rattle sound I drained the oil it's glittery I open the portion and I found two loose washers any idea where they go ?
Probably in your transmission
What shims did you get? What part number/kit/company do they come from?
I think you're asking about the third/fourth gear synchronizer shims. I got them from Novak Conversions in Utah. Part number is 69241B.
Hey I have everything together like in your video which is also the way I took it apart. (I took pictures during disassembly). When I put the counterbalance shaft on the bottom in it spins easily but as soon as I tighten the bolts for the countershaft cover to 20 ft lbs pounds like the manual says the gears become very hard to turn. Is this normal with reused bearings that aren’t bad? It doesn’t spin super easy like yours does in the video, you have to grip it with both hands. I have the washer and thrust bearing on the correct side with the other offset washer on the other side.
Check to make sure your roller bearing at opposite end of the countershaft is fully seated in the housing. If it is, try removing a thrust washer and see if you still have the same issue.
@@robstuckey It seems to spin alright now that I have the whole thing together. I took apart a running one to clean it and reseal and never replaced the bottom bearings because they looked fine. So I never had to seat it. It has some resistance to be turned but the input shaft can be turned with one hand without a whole lot of force so I assume it will be fine.
Did you get shims? And where exactly are you checking and play?
yeah final assembly video will be out sometime later this week. slide your feeler gauge in between the gear teeth on the input shaft and the third/fourth synchronizer assembly. you are looking for between 0.037" and 0.070". I prefer tighter build and set mine at 0.045". Too much endplay will result in slower, sloppier shifts and possible rattling of the assembly. Too little endplay will result in premature synchro ring wear.
How much did you spend to get this rebuild? Doing it your self ? I’m thinking in rebuilding my if I need 2 one day ..
i spent $525 on parts. $365 for the rebuild kit and new first gear. $30 on some more shims, $90 on a new input shaft and $40 for a new input bearing retainer.. i also spent a few hundred bucks on tools/press. to have it rebuilt by someone else was going to cost around $1200.
@@robstuckey thank you