The 435 and 205 are really good. I’ve got that with a 300 in my 78 f250. Both had no oil in them when I rebuilt them and they had no bad bearings surprisingly other than output shaft on the 435. Only problem I had with my 435 is the gear shaped thin shims in front of the 3rd synchronizer were in the bottom of the case. Appears to be the #1 issue with these. If they aren’t there it may be hard to shift between those gears. I believe the factory shim spec was 60-85 thousands which I think is ridiculous, I did around 35-40 thousands and it worked much better. There are some NP435 rebuild videos that explain it and a bunch of forum posts. The one other problem with these is the shift rod for 3rd has a really short throw and if worn bad will pop out of 3rd. If it’s a problem, you beat out the 3 freeze plugs and pop out the shaft in the top cover after hitting the roll pins out in the shift forks. Grind the shallow cutout in the shaft deeper where the pin sits in so it won’t be able to slip out with vibration. Hope this helps if you run into these problems. You can find those shims on eBay for cheap just look up NP435 3rd gear synchronizer shims, they should have sets of 3 teeth in groups for a total of 12 on the inside of the shim. The previous guy may have not had them or thrown away the broken ones before you bought it. It may be best to watch a rebuild video to see exactly where they go, but they should have come out behind the 3rd synchronizer you took out. You push down on the synchro and the input shaft and stick the feeler gauge in between the front of the synchro and the gear next to it.
ua-cam.com/video/AGgiB45RMyI/v-deo.htmlsi=vm2RONM_AaPBG1zN - Part 4 ua-cam.com/video/BfZzw4aX_3w/v-deo.htmlsi=wSKkEXKiofnEOvDG Part 5 This Rob guy shows both issues I mentioned and how to reassemble. The first video at the end show the shims. The second video at the start shows the shims and the fix for the 3rd popping out later in that video.
I wish more UA-camrs would discuss and describe things like you do. I’m getting ready to rebuild my old 727 and use your videos as by guide. That and my FSM. Thanks for your videos. They have already saved me time and money.
I've got a 1977 w200 that I have been debating on swapping to an np435 also, I'm intrigued! ill be keeping the np203 in it though, I'm contemplating on doing one of those kits from LMC to make it a part time, but I'm undecided
Easiest is probably that it's a top loader, 8--bolt top with the pattern you see, 2 inspection covers, the countershaft bearing retainer on the front is pretty distinct as is the reverse shaft lock tab.
My clutch fork is shaking After installing the clutch kit and I have to bleed the Slave cylinder every 3-4 days.... Can a pressure plate introduce air into the system my shaking the clutch fork? I don't wanna replace the pressure plate for nothing...😢
The 435 and 205 are really good. I’ve got that with a 300 in my 78 f250. Both had no oil in them when I rebuilt them and they had no bad bearings surprisingly other than output shaft on the 435. Only problem I had with my 435 is the gear shaped thin shims in front of the 3rd synchronizer were in the bottom of the case. Appears to be the #1 issue with these. If they aren’t there it may be hard to shift between those gears. I believe the factory shim spec was 60-85 thousands which I think is ridiculous, I did around 35-40 thousands and it worked much better. There are some NP435 rebuild videos that explain it and a bunch of forum posts. The one other problem with these is the shift rod for 3rd has a really short throw and if worn bad will pop out of 3rd. If it’s a problem, you beat out the 3 freeze plugs and pop out the shaft in the top cover after hitting the roll pins out in the shift forks. Grind the shallow cutout in the shaft deeper where the pin sits in so it won’t be able to slip out with vibration. Hope this helps if you run into these problems. You can find those shims on eBay for cheap just look up NP435 3rd gear synchronizer shims, they should have sets of 3 teeth in groups for a total of 12 on the inside of the shim. The previous guy may have not had them or thrown away the broken ones before you bought it. It may be best to watch a rebuild video to see exactly where they go, but they should have come out behind the 3rd synchronizer you took out. You push down on the synchro and the input shaft and stick the feeler gauge in between the front of the synchro and the gear next to it.
ua-cam.com/video/AGgiB45RMyI/v-deo.htmlsi=vm2RONM_AaPBG1zN - Part 4
ua-cam.com/video/BfZzw4aX_3w/v-deo.htmlsi=wSKkEXKiofnEOvDG Part 5
This Rob guy shows both issues I mentioned and how to reassemble. The first video at the end show the shims. The second video at the start shows the shims and the fix for the 3rd popping out later in that video.
I wish more UA-camrs would discuss and describe things like you do. I’m getting ready to rebuild my old 727 and use your videos as by guide. That and my FSM. Thanks for your videos. They have already saved me time and money.
Great info, these transmissions are so over built compared to modern transmissions. Your input is fine spline and is probably a 68 and newer.
I was thing that, plus being the ball bearing input, it could be the late 80s, early 90s model used in the Dodges.
Gear driven NP205 is one tough transfercase
I've got a 1977 w200 that I have been debating on swapping to an np435 also, I'm intrigued! ill be keeping the np203 in it though, I'm contemplating on doing one of those kits from LMC to make it a part time, but I'm undecided
dodge started using the ball input bearing again in may of 1986 on up according to my factory parts manual
How would you identify a no435
Easiest is probably that it's a top loader, 8--bolt top with the pattern you see, 2 inspection covers, the countershaft bearing retainer on the front is pretty distinct as is the reverse shaft lock tab.
@@YoshimoshiGarage my trans has that cover at 8:52 on the rear u say is a cover for idler shaft an mine only has one pt cover on the passenger side
I'm pretty sure the 445 has only 1 cover
@@YoshimoshiGarage np445? U mean pto cover?
My clutch fork is shaking After installing the clutch kit and I have to bleed the Slave cylinder every 3-4 days.... Can a pressure plate introduce air into the system my shaking the clutch fork? I don't wanna replace the pressure plate for nothing...😢
No, the pressure plate has no effect - there's probably a bad seal somewhere in the hydraulic system
@@YoshimoshiGarage I'm talking about the clutch fork shaking the rod to the slave cylinder?
@@gasisthepastendoil should have a spring on the clutch fork or add a spring