Excellent video informative and well detailed description. I've rebuilt two so far. Didn't know that the tiny pawls come out too. I have two more re installs coming up. This video is excellent to remind me.
I realized when rebuilding the freewheel you have to atleast leave a 2-3 bearings out to give it a coasting. I researched about it and I notice that there should be at least one bearing out on the bottom and three on top.
If the manufacture installed 30 bearings why leave out bearings and not installing what the manufacture installed? I have heard other people saying the same thing but I don't see why I 'd do that.
@@goodboyringo9716 I feel that same way as u do...If there was say....30 in the top then I will install same size 30 new bearings. Same with the bottom. What I do is have 2 little tubs and put the top bearings in one tub and bottom in the other tub that way I know exactly how many bearings go where.
My lockring won't get out. I mean, i already opened that lockring and took the pawl's bearings and lockring bearings. But the lockring won't get out. It is inside even it is fully free. I can't push it out. It spins freely, but can't push it out. I am searching like 2 hours. None shows that. How can i push that out? Edit: You can't push it out. You need to put bearings and grease it FROM INSIDE if you wan't to make your life easier.
It might be just dirty inside it and the paws are not moving smoothly enough here a video on how to clean it ua-cam.com/video/XUSBr7Q0HmU/v-deo.html unless you fixed it already because its been a month
You will not get real answer no one from those freaks who create videos know how to produce tutorials even who appear famous like rj doesnt answer and tony dont know as he said to me "just buy another one its cheap i just used to overhaul without loose it here is a video for rj" fuck all useless been days searching no one on internet know how many exactly mf-tz21 i just gave up and filled up top & bottom its now better than before but still getting vibration i know its the freewheel because changing it with another one solved it i did many times loose it and overhaul but nothing minus one or two for top or bottom make it worse i cant say all i did its a mess
Ahhh i see.. maybe i will just upgrade it to cassette type hub. the one with freehub body. wiggle on a freewheel is freakin annoying. Thank you by the way Sir.
What specific tool/adapter are you speaking of? The freewheel was never removed in this particular video, so that in itself doesn't need to be tightened. The locking race portion of the freewheel was tight. there are spanner wrenches that fit, but with 2 small indentions on the race, you're only going to get it so tight. I realize RJ is a very popular UA-cam personality, but wrenching on bikes is not his day job.
@@JoeyMesa Okay cool, yeah I think it was the freewheel removal tool that he used to tighten the freewheel on at the end.. Idk, thanks again for the video - you definitely help me a ton with your videos! And I don't think you submerge your parts in a quart of paint thinner each time. Earth thanks you :)
You're welcome! Individual cogs can be replaced pretty easily, but the difficult part is sourcing the cogs. I don't know of any companies who supply them currently.
@@JoeyMesa Ah yes, not surprising. An old-timer neighbor of mine told me that "back in the day", at his LBS, they had a bunch of individual cogs nailed up on a piece of plywood, and you'd pick out the cogs you wanted to have your freewheel built with!
@4:04 I was just pondering yesterday how to get that outermost lockring off...the one with 8 notches that keeps the cogs on the main body that no one ever seems to take off.searched high and low on ebay hoping I could at least find a tool from china but it is a no go. Apparently none are made....Your thoughts?
In general, modern multi speed freewheels are pretty low on the quality end of the cycling spectrum. There's really no need to replace the cogs, which is what the locking is for. It allows you to remove the cogs from the freewheel body. A complete freewheel is dirt cheap. The important tool is the one to remove the complete freewheel assembly, and replace it if any part is worn.
Nice video Question ... In this video and a couple of other where the freewheel was disassembled, it seems like 'bearings are missing', that is they don't go all the way around the race - there are some gaps.. Seems kind of odd. Why is that ? thx
From my understanding, it basically keeps both bearing surfaces evenly supported, but if there are spaces that can vary between the bearing surfaces, it reduces the risk of the bearings making indentions in the races. I think this would mainly be the case for headset bearings. Also it would reduce friction of the bearings rotating against each other as their rolling.
@@JoeyMesa thanks for the response. As an experiment, I've tried 4 different 8 speed freewheels (and the original 7 speed) on my Mongoose Dolomite. All of them have approximately the same amount of 'wobble', which I suspect is not an issue within itself. But I was just wondering if it's because of the 'missing bearings' - for lack of a better term. The 8 speed that I decided to keep (11T-34T) - without a special tool, virtually no way to get it apart that I can tell. btw I converted the Dolomite to 8 speed.
Well, there's really no way to measure the torque. I usually just turn the lockring to the point where it's starting to get hard to turn once it contacts the spacer shims, then getting an additional 1/8 to 1/4 turn is plenty tight.
This is a freewheel. A cassette attaches to a free hub body which is an extension of the hub. The ratcheting mechanism is inside the free hub body. All cassettes have a series of splines that interface with the free hub body. A freewheel has the ratcheting mechanism within the freewheel itself. Most all freewheels thread onto the hub. In the case of this demonstration, the main body of the freewheel was left connected onto the hub.
I was about to buy a new freewheel ......now I fixed mine....a big thank you
Great! Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment!
Excellent video informative and well detailed description. I've rebuilt two so far. Didn't know that the tiny pawls come out too.
I have two more re installs coming up.
This video is excellent to remind me.
Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment, and I'm glad the video was helpful!
Briliant video .learnt a lot .
Fantastic work.👍👍👍
Thanks! And thanks for taking the time to leave feedback!
@@JoeyMesa any time.👍👍👍
This is The video I am looking for! Thanks!
You're welcome!
I realized when rebuilding the freewheel you have to atleast leave a 2-3 bearings out to give it a coasting. I researched about it and I notice that there should be at least one bearing out on the bottom and three on top.
If the manufacture installed 30 bearings why leave out bearings and not installing what the manufacture installed?
I have heard other people saying the same thing but I don't see why I 'd do that.
@@goodboyringo9716 I feel that same way as u do...If there was say....30 in the top then I will install same size 30 new bearings. Same with the bottom. What I do is have 2 little tubs and put the top bearings in one tub and bottom in the other tub that way I know exactly how many bearings go where.
Will be nice if I had the option of saving this video in a playlist :/
Thank you so much 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Most welcome 😊 Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback!!
what does the ball bearings size? on freewheel?help
My lockring won't get out. I mean, i already opened that lockring and took the pawl's bearings and lockring bearings. But the lockring won't get out. It is inside even it is fully free. I can't push it out. It spins freely, but can't push it out. I am searching like 2 hours. None shows that. How can i push that out?
Edit: You can't push it out. You need to put bearings and grease it FROM INSIDE if you wan't to make your life easier.
Sometimes it isn't easy to get off. Like mine. I tried penetration oil but did nothing. So I heated the threads up and with some strength it came off.
What size are the internal bearings.
thanks in my cycle gear not working its rotating both sidee can you make a video of that
It might be just dirty inside it and the paws are not moving smoothly enough
here a video on how to clean it
ua-cam.com/video/XUSBr7Q0HmU/v-deo.html
unless you fixed it already because its been a month
Good video
Thanks!
Sir how many bearings in the top and in the bottom. I think i got my hubs wronged
You will not get real answer no one from those freaks who create videos know how to produce tutorials even who appear famous like rj doesnt answer and tony dont know as he said to me "just buy another one its cheap i just used to overhaul without loose it here is a video for rj" fuck all useless been days searching no one on internet know how many exactly mf-tz21 i just gave up and filled up top & bottom its now better than before but still getting vibration i know its the freewheel because changing it with another one solved it i did many times loose it and overhaul but nothing minus one or two for top or bottom make it worse i cant say all i did its a mess
Ahhh i see.. maybe i will just upgrade it to cassette type hub. the one with freehub body. wiggle on a freewheel is freakin annoying. Thank you by the way
Sir.
I'm pretty sure you need to get the freewheel tool/adapter to tighten it all up at the end, atleast that's what rj did.
What specific tool/adapter are you speaking of? The freewheel was never removed in this particular video, so that in itself doesn't need to be tightened. The locking race portion of the freewheel was tight. there are spanner wrenches that fit, but with 2 small indentions on the race, you're only going to get it so tight.
I realize RJ is a very popular UA-cam personality, but wrenching on bikes is not his day job.
@@JoeyMesa Okay cool, yeah I think it was the freewheel removal tool that he used to tighten the freewheel on at the end.. Idk, thanks again for the video - you definitely help me a ton with your videos! And I don't think you submerge your parts in a quart of paint thinner each time. Earth thanks you :)
How to open this hub?
Hello! I have the freewheel shown at 2:20 and I’m not sure about how to disassemble it. Does anyone have an idea?
Very interesting and informative Joey - thank you. Now...what about replacing an individual cog in that freewheel? Doable?
You're welcome! Individual cogs can be replaced pretty easily, but the difficult part is sourcing the cogs. I don't know of any companies who supply them currently.
@@JoeyMesa Ah yes, not surprising. An old-timer neighbor of mine told me that "back in the day", at his LBS, they had a bunch of individual cogs nailed up on a piece of plywood, and you'd pick out the cogs you wanted to have your freewheel built with!
How many ball bearing inside and outer side of that?
Second time this question posted in this video and joey just pass & ignore to answer it wonder why he answer prevous and next
@4:04 I was just pondering yesterday how to get that outermost lockring off...the one with 8 notches that keeps the cogs on the main body that no one ever seems to take off.searched high and low on ebay hoping I could at least find a tool from china but it is a no go. Apparently none are made....Your thoughts?
In general, modern multi speed freewheels are pretty low on the quality end of the cycling spectrum. There's really no need to replace the cogs, which is what the locking is for. It allows you to remove the cogs from the freewheel body. A complete freewheel is dirt cheap. The important tool is the one to remove the complete freewheel assembly, and replace it if any part is worn.
I had no idea,tkx
You're welcome!
Nice video
Question ... In this video and a couple of other where the freewheel was disassembled, it seems like 'bearings are missing', that is they don't go all the way around the race - there are some gaps..
Seems kind of odd.
Why is that ?
thx
From my understanding, it basically keeps both bearing surfaces evenly supported, but if there are spaces that can vary between the bearing surfaces, it reduces the risk of the bearings making indentions in the races. I think this would mainly be the case for headset bearings. Also it would reduce friction of the bearings rotating against each other as their rolling.
@@JoeyMesa thanks for the response. As an experiment, I've tried 4 different 8 speed freewheels (and the original 7 speed) on my Mongoose Dolomite. All of them have approximately the same amount of 'wobble', which I suspect is not an issue within itself. But I was just wondering if it's because of the 'missing bearings' - for lack of a better term. The 8 speed that I decided to keep (11T-34T) - without a special tool, virtually no way to get it apart that I can tell. btw I converted the Dolomite to 8 speed.
How many ball bearing did you have to put on lower edge
I can't remember, but it was a lot! I just tried to keep the sides separated, and put the same balls back in their respective side.
how tight should the lockring be
im concerned about it getting loose overtime
Well, there's really no way to measure the torque. I usually just turn the lockring to the point where it's starting to get hard to turn once it contacts the spacer shims, then getting an additional 1/8 to 1/4 turn is plenty tight.
@@JoeyMesa alright thanks
Are the inner and outer bearings the same size?
Yes. Atleast in my one.
what size of bearing of that?
1/8"
Hello dear sir cassette lock ring thank 😊😅
Woody Harrelson is that you?
No, it's just me. Woody is from a close part of the US as me though...
how many bearing in sprocket??
More than I was willing to count. probably between 150-200
I believe that is not a freewheel. you are working on a cassette
This is a freewheel. A cassette attaches to a free hub body which is an extension of the hub. The ratcheting mechanism is inside the free hub body. All cassettes have a series of splines that interface with the free hub body.
A freewheel has the ratcheting mechanism within the freewheel itself. Most all freewheels thread onto the hub. In the case of this demonstration, the main body of the freewheel was left connected onto the hub.