This worked perfectly - I already got it to blink 4 times before finding the video and then followed the steps as she explained them and it 100 percent worked thank you for making this video.
Fantastic video that allowed me to walk right along with this and pinpoint my problem. Saved me a call to the home warranty and was able to pop out and get a new thermopile.
Nice video. I'm happy to see a video on why gas valves melt. The "thermal switch" is not a switch. You are the person servicing the appliance and the burnt wire in the video is supposed to be the switch that shuts it down. The burnt wire is supposed to operate a brain cell that says..."that is not a thermal switch." That is a one shot, fusible link which is a safety control. It is not a, Mr's Kamala Harris has an organ, control. Fortunately, Honeywell has hand huge numbers of quacks working on the machines and the AGA and fire departments required another layer of protection. Which should come with a lot of bills from an Md. That is the little light on the carbon monoxide indicator going off. This usually happens after the homeowners decided that the correct "plumbing code" is to burn down the building. This should give you a precision reading of the white paint on the gas valve is covered in black filthy soot. All of those readings go off when the fire department brings arson charges because the plumber is making a lot of money by killing the customers and selling their homes to his cousins...that are also on the plumbing board.
Yes, please watch my video titled, "Troubleshoot Water Heater AND Honeywell Gas Valve | Step-by-Step." That should walk you through what you need to do. The first part of the video addresses what to do if the igniter strikes but no flame is established.
I installed a new thermopyle, kept it in the off position for more than 10 minutes, Lit the pilot light and held it there for about 10 minutes to charge but when I release the pilot light goes out. I've repeated these steps and no luck
First, I recommend you keep the temp knob depressed in the pilot position for about 30 seconds after the pilot flame has lit. Try that. If that doesn't work, I think my video, titled "Troubleshoot Water Heater AND Honeywell Gas Valve | Step-by-Step," will help you figure out what the issue is with your water heater. I hope that helps you.
I’m well into 10 minutes and I still have not reached 650. I’m only in the mid 620’s after all this time. Third time watching this video while holding pilot button.
Nojokebeatz, what issue are you having with your water heater? A 620 reading on a thermopile should still operate the control board. It just means the thermopile isn't as healthy as it should be. Please tell me what the problem is, and I'll try to help you. You can fix the water heater yourself; I'll assure you. Please watch my video titled, "Troubleshoot Water Heater AND Honeywell Gas Valve | Step-by-Step." I believe it will help you.
My issue is that I'm getting the five flashes, which states sensor failure. However, I unhook the red wire from the control board. I assume that might be a reset since it allows me to clear the codes next I reignite pilot and turn gas settings to desired settings. Next my heater will resume to heating water for around 3-5 minutes before the five flashes code returns. I’ve already ordered and received the replacement controller.
Surprisingly in the past two hours, my error code has upgraded itself to seven flashes now. So I’m convinced that I will have to replace the entire controller at this point. I was optimistic about saving some bucks and sending my new controller back for a refund.
Did the LED status light ever flash four times? Try unplugging the red and white wires on the face of the gas valve cover and leaving them unplugged for several hours, longer if possible. Then, plugged the wires back in and try to light the pilot and see if you get seven flashes. If you do, wait for about half hour to an hour, then check back to see if the LED status light has changed to one flash every three second (normal operation mode).
@@frugaldiy1 I waited until the morning to reconnect wires, and I was still getting the seven flashes. I decided to change the entire controller. Now everything is working tip-top!
My pilot will light and stay on, but when i set the temperature the burner will turn on for about 3 seconds and go out. I tested the thermopyle and getting only 600mv. With the thermal switch or not. Do you think this lower voltage can cause this issue?
No, Luis, I don't think the low voltage is causing the problem. Luis, please watch my video "Troubleshoot Water Heater and Honeywell Gas Valve." I think it will help you. Here's the link: ua-cam.com/video/cAo4I2eoJ9Q/v-deo.html
This worked perfectly - I already got it to blink 4 times before finding the video and then followed the steps as she explained them and it 100 percent worked thank you for making this video.
That's wonderful to hear, and you're welcome. ;)
Fantastic video that allowed me to walk right along with this and pinpoint my problem. Saved me a call to the home warranty and was able to pop out and get a new thermopile.
This is by far the clearest video I've seen on explaining operation of the thermopile and testing it. Good work!
Thank you, grb321. That means a lot to me. ;)
This lady's videos are amazing for we novice dyiers Thanks so much.
You're welcome! Thank you so much for leaving such a nice comment. It means a lot to me--truly. ;)
Nice video. I'm happy to see a video on why gas valves melt.
The "thermal switch" is not a switch. You are the person servicing the appliance and the burnt wire in the video is supposed to be the switch that shuts it down. The burnt wire is supposed to operate a brain cell that says..."that is not a thermal switch." That is a one shot, fusible link which is a safety control. It is not a, Mr's Kamala Harris has an organ, control.
Fortunately, Honeywell has hand huge numbers of quacks working on the machines and the AGA and fire departments required another layer of protection. Which should come with a lot of bills from an Md. That is the little light on the carbon monoxide indicator going off. This usually happens after the homeowners decided that the correct "plumbing code" is to burn down the building. This should give you a precision reading of the white paint on the gas valve is covered in black filthy soot.
All of those readings go off when the fire department brings arson charges because the plumber is making a lot of money by killing the customers and selling their homes to his cousins...that are also on the plumbing board.
A great work. I cannot find a replace component WV8860B1309…
But only wv8840B. Are they comparable?
So does the gas supply to the water heater need to be shut off, or should it remain on for this test?
The pilot flame has to be on to test the thermopile, and gas is required to light the pilot flame.
It strikes but produces no lit flame. Can you lead me to what I need to test out?
Yes, please watch my video titled, "Troubleshoot Water Heater AND Honeywell Gas Valve | Step-by-Step." That should walk you through what you need to do. The first part of the video addresses what to do if the igniter strikes but no flame is established.
On my wall heater, I read 438 millvolts. I know it should go to like 650mL. but the thermostat eventually came on. Is it a range?
650-850 millivolts. A thermopile can work at 438 (even lower), but it's not a "healthy" thermopile and it's not reliable.
@@frugaldiy1 mine was a made in china. Maybe I should buy like a robert shaw
Yes, S H, I LOVE Robert Shaw thermopiles and gas valves. I'm not a big fan of China products and try to avoid them like the plague. ;)
I installed a new thermopyle, kept it in the off position for more than 10 minutes, Lit the pilot light and held it there for about 10 minutes to charge but when I release the pilot light goes out. I've repeated these steps and no luck
First, I recommend you keep the temp knob depressed in the pilot position for about 30 seconds after the pilot flame has lit. Try that. If that doesn't work, I think my video, titled "Troubleshoot Water Heater AND Honeywell Gas Valve | Step-by-Step," will help you figure out what the issue is with your water heater. I hope that helps you.
Question I checked one today but my tester only shows 120 mili volts tester only goes to 200 mili volts couldn’t find tester that shows 2000
So what's the issue then if the thermo pile is good
Can you leave the dial between hot and low? The hot is far too hot.
Yes, ed. That'll be fine. Merry Christmas!
@@frugaldiy1 merry Christmas to you too brother!
Thanks again for your help
You're welcome, Tonymir. I'm glad I could help.
@@frugaldiy1 á
Yes, Juan?
Hi what if I don't have the voltage at all? The pilot is bad?
reo, if the millivolt reading is below 650, I would replace the thermopile.
Thanks!
You're welcome, Andrew, and thank you for your generosity and support.
Thanks
You're welcome!
I’m well into 10 minutes and I still have not reached 650. I’m only in the mid 620’s after all this time. Third time watching this video while holding pilot button.
Nojokebeatz, what issue are you having with your water heater? A 620 reading on a thermopile should still operate the control board. It just means the thermopile isn't as healthy as it should be. Please tell me what the problem is, and I'll try to help you. You can fix the water heater yourself; I'll assure you.
Please watch my video titled, "Troubleshoot Water Heater AND Honeywell Gas Valve | Step-by-Step." I believe it will help you.
My issue is that I'm getting the five flashes, which states sensor failure. However, I unhook the red wire from the control board. I assume that might be a reset since it allows me to clear the codes next I reignite pilot and turn gas settings to desired settings. Next my heater will resume to heating water for around 3-5 minutes before the five flashes code returns. I’ve already ordered and received the replacement controller.
Surprisingly in the past two hours, my error code has upgraded itself to seven flashes now. So I’m convinced that I will have to replace the entire controller at this point. I was optimistic about saving some bucks and sending my new controller back for a refund.
Did the LED status light ever flash four times? Try unplugging the red and white wires on the face of the gas valve cover and leaving them unplugged for several hours, longer if possible. Then, plugged the wires back in and try to light the pilot and see if you get seven flashes. If you do, wait for about half hour to an hour, then check back to see if the LED status light has changed to one flash every three second (normal operation mode).
@@frugaldiy1 I waited until the morning to reconnect wires, and I was still getting the seven flashes. I decided to change the entire controller. Now everything is working tip-top!
My pilot will light and stay on, but when i set the temperature the burner will turn on for about 3 seconds and go out. I tested the thermopyle and getting only 600mv. With the thermal switch or not. Do you think this lower voltage can cause this issue?
No, Luis, I don't think the low voltage is causing the problem. Luis, please watch my video "Troubleshoot Water Heater and Honeywell Gas Valve." I think it will help you. Here's the link: ua-cam.com/video/cAo4I2eoJ9Q/v-deo.html
Great job👍👍👍