This is my new favorite channel. I'm a automotive mechanic and work on my 16 dyna myself. Your channel is filling in the gaps between what I know and the harley specific nuances I need to know. Thanks so much for all the videos. Subscribed for sure! Thanks again DeathProof! Edit: I realize this video doesn't apply to my dyna but it's about the 15 video in a row I've watched on your channel😂
I’m sure your subscribers will rise,I’m here in the southwest of England and will be telling friends about your channel,I like your no bullshit attitude and the way you explain in a way bikers can connect to you! Great channel I’m now a regular!🏍🏍❤️
Thank you for this! I saw in my service manual that the end play is checked with a greased bearing and wheel on the bike just like you said. Every other video I've seen checks end play with a dry bearing off the bike to the point that I was doubting myself. New sub here👍
Love watching you at work bro! You are awesome, I love your persona,and your mythological aspect of mechanics. I actually envy your knowledge! 👍 I have to do this to the rear wheel 2005 Fatboy, feel it getting squirrely when I WOT. . Why do you need shims, does every spoke wheel have a shim? Ty
The bearings on your bike are sealed instead of the tapered roller bearings that were on them until 2000. You won't have to shim those to set the clearance all you do is pull and replace. What I recommend on those is don't waste your money on the special tool to do the job, get you a blind hole puller set that goes up to 1 1/8 use it to pull the bearing. Your gonna want to remove the rear sprocket so you don't scar the powder coat. At home depot you should be able to get a piece of allthread 7/8 by 12 use 2 flat washers on both sides and use it to pull the bearings in. It will cost half the money and you will have a tool that you that can be used on everything from the inner cam bearings to the spindals on your lawnmower. Also thanks for the compliment means alot to know your work is appreciated.
@@DeathProofProductions wow, thank you very much for the fast an intelligent response. Definitely going to home Depot. And going to look into that blind puller set !! 1 1/8" Bro you are a godsend, thank you again. Looking forward to your awesome videos, an amazing mechanical skills 🙏
Lmao at the tank slapper video. I'm having that death wobble and I'm pulling the front tire tomorrow to check the bearing. Shit got scary in a couple corners for sure!
@@DeathProofProductions 2008 FLHTCU - Electra Glide. Happens mostly when on decel when cornering but a couple times just cruising straight. My front tire was 6 psi low and once I filled it the wobble wasn't as bad or as often but still there. Going to do the steering neck bearing test first then check the wheel bearings.
Nice video, thanks. How do you not destroy & re-use the seal if you determine you need to add another shim? Seems like a pain to have to put the rear tire back on and off to see the play with new seals every time. Do you not prefer the dry bench test?
I just calculate it from my original measurement. When you work at a dealership you have to figure out was to shave time. Bench test is one more step that is not critical so I don't do it. I have never had to redo it to be in spec. Thanks for the compliment.
@@DeathProofProductions I'm getting no noticeable play, maybe .001 if any. The wheel spins freely even after torqued down to spec. Would you recommend adding a shim? Or let it run till next tire change? My dealership work order says they set it last tire change.
For all you guys who want timkin bearings for your replacement bearings they were bought out by the Chinese. Found out when I replaced my cam bearings last year. And at 50k my cams were scored.
The wheel hub has a lip that is machined into it that the race sits on and half of the race hangs off of it so you can use the tool to remove it. So on installation you want it to fit snuggly on the lip so it doesn't affect your inplay reading and how many shims you need to put in.
Can I get away with just reusing the shims that already came with the bike, and is there any other way to get those bearing races out without a special tool, could I use a blind bearing slide hammer tool?
Thank you so much for 315 subscribers!
No problem brother... glad to subscribe!!
You're good people!
My name is Rich from NY
As an industry professional for 30+ yrs, this man speaks the truth. Thanks
This is my new favorite channel. I'm a automotive mechanic and work on my 16 dyna myself. Your channel is filling in the gaps between what I know and the harley specific nuances I need to know. Thanks so much for all the videos. Subscribed for sure! Thanks again DeathProof! Edit: I realize this video doesn't apply to my dyna but it's about the 15 video in a row I've watched on your channel😂
I need to thank you for watching and the compliment. I'm glad to help it means alot.
'I'm using a wrench cause I don't feel like getting up'. Lol! Binge watching your channel. Great videos so far. 👌
I’m sure your subscribers will rise,I’m here in the southwest of England and will be telling friends about your channel,I like your no bullshit attitude and the way you explain in a way bikers can connect to you! Great channel I’m now a regular!🏍🏍❤️
Thanks for the comment. What me and my son want to do with this channel is put out info that is from experience not someone just faking the funk.
Thank you for this! I saw in my service manual that the end play is checked with a greased bearing and wheel on the bike just like you said. Every other video I've seen checks end play with a dry bearing off the bike to the point that I was doubting myself. New sub here👍
Glad to be able to help.
Thanks for the video. Well done.
Thanks for the compliment on the vid.
For 2000+ sealed I uploaded a video, thanks for this one
I'm liking your videos. I've bought 3 bikes from Bumpus, (Collierville)
I do all of my own maintenance.
Thanks. Have you ever meet a mechanic there called big Mike.
The video was pretty matter-of-fact and to the point. Not too much talk - thanks!
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
Love watching you at work bro!
You are awesome, I love your persona,and your mythological aspect of mechanics.
I actually envy your knowledge! 👍
I have to do this to the rear wheel 2005 Fatboy, feel it getting squirrely when I WOT. .
Why do you need shims, does every spoke wheel have a shim? Ty
The bearings on your bike are sealed instead of the tapered roller bearings that were on them until 2000. You won't have to shim those to set the clearance all you do is pull and replace. What I recommend on those is don't waste your money on the special tool to do the job, get you a blind hole puller set that goes up to 1 1/8 use it to pull the bearing. Your gonna want to remove the rear sprocket so you don't scar the powder coat. At home depot you should be able to get a piece of allthread 7/8 by 12 use 2 flat washers on both sides and use it to pull the bearings in. It will cost half the money and you will have a tool that you that can be used on everything from the inner cam bearings to the spindals on your lawnmower. Also thanks for the compliment means alot to know your work is appreciated.
@@DeathProofProductions wow, thank you very much for the fast an intelligent response.
Definitely going to home Depot. And going to look into that blind puller set !! 1 1/8"
Bro you are a godsend, thank you again.
Looking forward to your awesome videos, an amazing mechanical skills 🙏
Lmao at the tank slapper video. I'm having that death wobble and I'm pulling the front tire tomorrow to check the bearing. Shit got scary in a couple corners for sure!
What model bike you got.
@@DeathProofProductions 2008 FLHTCU - Electra Glide. Happens mostly when on decel when cornering but a couple times just cruising straight.
My front tire was 6 psi low and once I filled it the wobble wasn't as bad or as often but still there. Going to do the steering neck bearing test first then check the wheel bearings.
Check your front and rear motor mounts to. How many miles on it.
Nice video, thanks. How do you not destroy & re-use the seal if you determine you need to add another shim? Seems like a pain to have to put the rear tire back on and off to see the play with new seals every time. Do you not prefer the dry bench test?
I just calculate it from my original measurement. When you work at a dealership you have to figure out was to shave time. Bench test is one more step that is not critical so I don't do it. I have never had to redo it to be in spec. Thanks for the compliment.
@@DeathProofProductions I'm getting no noticeable play, maybe .001 if any. The wheel spins freely even after torqued down to spec. Would you recommend adding a shim? Or let it run till next tire change?
My dealership work order says they set it last tire change.
If there is no roughness when you spin it then your good.
Hey man I heard in one of your vids you speak about your wreck but just mentioned it. Would you be willin to do a vid on it? Thanks
Yes I was thinking about it. It's a damn crazy ass story I just got to get cought on these other projects then I can do it.
For all you guys who want timkin bearings for your replacement bearings they were bought out by the Chinese. Found out when I replaced my cam bearings last year. And at 50k my cams were scored.
Do you have to take the race out
Yes.
Wouldn't flipping the tool over on installation make it so you'll never be able to pull that new race out the way you did the old one?
The wheel hub has a lip that is machined into it that the race sits on and half of the race hangs off of it so you can use the tool to remove it. So on installation you want it to fit snuggly on the lip so it doesn't affect your inplay reading and how many shims you need to put in.
@@DeathProofProductions awesome, thanks! I am getting ready to do this job on my '99 and this helps a lot.
Can I get away with just reusing the shims that already came with the bike, and is there any other way to get those bearing races out without a special tool, could I use a blind bearing slide hammer tool?
Some times yes but it all depends on the mesurment
Thanks for the advice, also when you install the axle seals, do you need to grease where they seal around the axle or do you leave them dry
Its not necessarily needed
What’s the tool
It's a timking bearing race remover and installer.