Great video!! Just the right amount of information to make the video short and to the point. It also corrected the wrong information in Clymers shop manual which tells you to add shims if you have too much play after tightening the wheel. Thanks again.
Outstanding Instructions especially about the thin shim! Most mechs don't even know that one! I own 5 pre 1999's and always inspect/replace bearing and seals at tire change time. This is a must do to keep the squirrels out of your ride! I also inspect/replace the swing arm bearings when doing the rear wheel. older rides just require a little bit more maintenance. Thanks Brian!
Thank you so much for this video Brian. I live very far from a decent shop that will work on old bikes. Forced to do some of this myself. This info was exactly what I needed.
Great video!!! Especially thanks for the anti seize info cause my Clymer manual says to use anti seize for a 98 Fatboy!! I ordered all the parts and tools and I’m going to tackle this job!!!
Great video. Always found the official harley service manual for my 95 wideglide to be confusing. It instructs to use anti seize on the axle, which makes no sense when working with an open tapered bearing.
Hello. Good vid. The end of the axle in the vise, I am assuming that is round. How do you protect it so it does not get damaged when you tighten the vise jaws.
Thanks for taking the time to explain it to those of us who refuse to pay anyone to work on our stuff. It makes perfect sense what's going on here. Any tips out of what to make the test spacer out of? Just a piece of appropriately fitting pipe?
All these numbers is confusing the hell outta me regarding the dial gauge, I've watched 6 times over and still don't get it, so are we putting less shims in or more, 27 thou then take a spacer out bring it down to 6 ??? can someone please break down the maths here for me, my head hurts, yeah I know it's obvious I'm not the smartest, any help to understand this would be appreciated thanks
It was out by 27 thou so he removed the 27 thou by removing 1- 32 thou shim and adding a 6 thou instead (32 - 6= 26 thousands of an inch reduction) which will decrease the end play to within specs. Make sense ?
@@jameskirby9369 your forgetting that there is a tapered bearing in there if you add more shims the bearing is held further away from the inner race and can't be successfully tightened so less shimming will let the bearing sit down on the race and lessen the end play
Excellent vid, but the math isn't working for me. If you had .027 end play and wanted .004, you would need to REDUCE end play by ADDING a .023 spacer. The way you explained it is basically the opposite of this...you reduced the spacer total by removing a .032 and adding a .008. Please explain to me where I am missing the boat. Also, why is your Snap-On dial indicator moving backwards. Thanks. EDIT: I've been trying to wrap my head around this end play adjustment and I think I understand now. It all has to do with how far you are compressing the bearing into the cup using the appropriate torque spec. To reduce end play you would need to remove space by reducing the shim stack so that the bearing can be compressed into the cup further. Is this correct?
BrewCityRider yeah I’m not getting this either u would think that if u wanted to decrease the end play u would have to add washers to take up the extra space
James Kirby in my Harley Davidson manual it says 0.04 inches or 1 mm below outside edge of wheel hub and that’s what I did that’s on page 2 -six of the service manual 🖖🏽👍🏼
Depending upon the wheel, it does matter which side the spacers are on. For instance, the spacers on the rear wheel on a 1993 Fatboy need to be on the sprocket side.
@@Oldetownecycle I know I’m late to the party but I just replaced my bearings for first time in my shovelhead rear wheel. They were last done by a Harley shop. The wheels were brand new and tagged with .012 play. I specifically told them to reduce the play to .002 to .005. BUT when I just replaced them there was not any top hat spacers. Just the center spacer. I have no way to check the end play. Is this normal ?
@@scrumthebum2451 Some / most early wheels did not use spacer setup. They had different length spacers to install (different length). They still wouldn’t usually get you to the 2-6. Usually loose or to tight, lol. We send the spacer to the machine shop and have it turned down and install the step spacer setup
No Michael and Ben but, your wheels axle spacers most likely would to correct for the change. You would also need to make sure the inner spacer was long enough to be captured by the bearings so to not have it fall in the hub making axle insertiton impossible. Last of course brake disc centering. We get a lot of questions about fitting this or that wheel or installing sealed bearings. This is close to ask "can I put a Honda wheel on my Harley" most likely yes. You just need to engineer the whole thing. Thanks!
should it be on the loose side and not the tight side of the tolerance??? for heat it will expand and make it tighter you think??? and they say oh it will get loose with were, i think not. those bearing are harder then a DIAMOND that steel is super hard it would take a long time to were down and get loose, i have done brake jobs on trucks and cars many hundreds for 29 years and never seen a bearing wear down to be loose they just get rust pits or the race has were marks and the cage gets larger and rollers are rattling loose but you do not lose clearance... now that being said. when do you do a brake job on a truck or a car??? correct about 30-40 thousand miles. now the bearing is most likely not been off for new grease correct??? yep believe me i have been doing this for a very time as a shop foreman union factory tech. and keep those bearing at the loose side of the tolerance. now the Harley book states to check the bearing at 10K and that means when the new tires are installed which i do on my 1990 FXRP and the 1997 FXDL but what about the 2020 FXLR sealed bearings should i just pop in new replacement bearing from the Harley Dealer ???
I'm not to cheap to pay a wrench, I just don't trust the guys I find working in the dealers. Harley doesn't support anything older than 10 years. That tells me those guys aren't really trained to install tapered bearings. I know I'll get it right...
Dude, this is the best how to on wheel bearings out there, good on ya!
This helped so much. I misplace all my original spacer and had no idea where to start. This made life so much easyier, thank you
Great video!! Just the right amount of information to make the video short and to the point. It also corrected the wrong information in Clymers shop manual which tells you to add shims if you have too much play after tightening the wheel. Thanks again.
Outstanding Instructions especially about the thin shim! Most mechs don't even know that one! I own 5 pre 1999's and always inspect/replace bearing and seals at tire change time. This is a must do to keep the squirrels out of your ride! I also inspect/replace the swing arm bearings when doing the rear wheel. older rides just require a little bit more maintenance. Thanks Brian!
Thank you so much for this video Brian. I live very far from a decent shop that will work on old bikes. Forced to do some of this myself. This info was exactly what I needed.
Great Video, thank you for taking your time to help us. Simple easy and to the point.
Great video!!! Especially thanks for the anti seize info cause my Clymer manual says to use anti seize for a 98 Fatboy!! I ordered all the parts and tools and I’m going to tackle this job!!!
Brian , Thanks so much for your videos , great job.
Great informational video. Thank you for your thoroughness.
Great video! Answered every question I could imagine.
Awesome video bro! I went to MMI many moons ago but haven't practiced. :( I'm chopping an old iron head so this is very helpful
Good video, thanks.
Just ran into this today, and trying to figure it out, so this will be a HUGE help.
Great video. Always found the official harley service manual for my 95 wideglide to be confusing. It instructs to use anti seize on the axle, which makes no sense when working with an open tapered bearing.
Thank you so mush, have been looking for this video lang time and finally found it.
yes sir that was a kick as video just one question do you have to is it a must to replace the cup
Great explanation Brian. I appreciate that.
Best. Instructions. Ever.
that was a kick ass video,thanks so much.
Hello. Good vid. The end of the axle in the vise, I am assuming that is round. How do you protect it so it does not get damaged when you tighten the vise jaws.
We use a spare axle. Aluminum jaws will work through
Thanks for the antiseiz comment., I didn't know,1987 Sportster. Grease it is then. thanks
Cool video thanks 94 fxdwg 21" couldn't find real info on nut torque , shim play thanks.
Great video. Very informative
Thanks Brian...outstanding video and instructions. Subscribed also bro.
Awesome video very helpful thank you.
How do you static balance a harley wheel with that type of bearings
EXCELLENT video! Nicely done.
Thanks for taking the time to explain it to those of us who refuse to pay anyone to work on our stuff. It makes perfect sense what's going on here. Any tips out of what to make the test spacer out of? Just a piece of appropriately fitting pipe?
+luketrash You need to use the current spacer during set up.
Great video 👍
do the hub spacers wear out won't lock into the bearings
Butch Smarr No, no worries
All these numbers is confusing the hell outta me regarding the dial gauge, I've watched 6 times over and still don't get it, so are we putting less shims in or more, 27 thou then take a spacer out bring it down to 6 ??? can someone please break down the maths here for me, my head hurts, yeah I know it's obvious I'm not the smartest, any help to understand this would be appreciated thanks
It was out by 27 thou so he removed the 27 thou by removing 1- 32 thou shim and adding a 6 thou instead (32 - 6= 26 thousands of an inch reduction) which will decrease the end play to within specs. Make sense ?
γελώντας στο αφελείς I’m confused too u would think that u would have to add washers to take up the extra space instead of decreasing them
@@jameskirby9369 your forgetting that there is a tapered bearing in there if you add more shims the bearing is held further away from the inner race and can't be successfully tightened so less shimming will let the bearing sit down on the race and lessen the end play
If one was to convert to sealed bearings would the shims still be necessary?
I am wondering the same thing..
Excellent vid, but the math isn't working for me. If you had .027 end play and wanted .004, you would need to REDUCE end play by ADDING a .023 spacer. The way you explained it is basically the opposite of this...you reduced the spacer total by removing a .032 and adding a .008. Please explain to me where I am missing the boat. Also, why is your Snap-On dial indicator moving backwards. Thanks.
EDIT: I've been trying to wrap my head around this end play adjustment and I think I understand now. It all has to do with how far you are compressing the bearing into the cup using the appropriate torque spec. To reduce end play you would need to remove space by reducing the shim stack so that the bearing can be compressed into the cup further. Is this correct?
BrewCityRider yeah I’m not getting this either u would think that if u wanted to decrease the end play u would have to add washers to take up the extra space
Great video.. helped me loads.thank you.
Very useful, thank you.. Need to turn the camera the other way though lol :)
How deep do you set the bearing seal is it important to be a certain amount below the lip equal to the lip etc. of the rim of the tire thank you
mot ikswelborw depends on the year of the bike.
James Kirby 98 fatboy
mot ikswelborw my Klymer says flush. I also have a 98 Fatboy!!!
James Kirby
in my Harley Davidson manual it says 0.04 inches or 1 mm below outside edge of wheel hub and that’s what I did that’s on page 2 -six of the service manual 🖖🏽👍🏼
So why don't you need a Top hat spacer on the other bearing?
AMA Media if you’re not using spacers on that side then u don’t need one. You only add spacers to one side
Couldn't see your gauge properly..But I got it ! Thanks...Now I have something else to worry about..🤣😎
Best video. Thanks.
Depending upon the wheel, it does matter which side the spacers are on. For instance, the spacers on the rear wheel on a 1993 Fatboy need to be on the sprocket side.
great video thanks
where do I get this different thickness spacers?? any hd part number or whaever??
You can get them aftermarket or Harley.43290-82 is for the .032 spacer part number
@@Oldetownecycle
I know I’m late to the party but I just replaced my bearings for first time in my shovelhead rear wheel. They were last done by a Harley shop. The wheels were brand new and tagged with .012 play. I specifically told them to reduce the play to .002 to .005. BUT when I just replaced them there was not any top hat spacers. Just the center spacer. I have no way to check the end play. Is this normal ?
@@scrumthebum2451 Some / most early wheels did not use spacer setup. They had different length spacers to install (different length). They still wouldn’t usually get you to the 2-6. Usually loose or to tight, lol. We send the spacer to the machine shop and have it turned down and install the step spacer setup
@@Oldetownecycle
Thanks for replying
Awesome man very helpful.
No Michael and Ben but, your wheels axle spacers most likely would to correct for the change. You would also need to make sure the inner spacer was long enough to be captured by the bearings so to not have it fall in the hub making axle insertiton impossible. Last of course brake disc centering. We get a lot of questions about fitting this or that wheel or installing sealed bearings. This is close to ask "can I put a Honda wheel on my Harley" most likely yes. You just need to engineer the whole thing. Thanks!
Thank-You Brian!!
Good information.thank you....
should it be on the loose side and not the tight side of the tolerance??? for heat it will expand and make it tighter you think??? and they say oh it will get loose with were, i think not. those bearing are harder then a DIAMOND that steel is super hard it would take a long time to were down and get loose, i have done brake jobs on trucks and cars many hundreds for 29 years and never seen a bearing wear down to be loose they just get rust pits or the race has were marks and the cage gets larger and rollers are rattling loose but you do not lose clearance... now that being said. when do you do a brake job on a truck or a car??? correct about 30-40 thousand miles. now the bearing is most likely not been off for new grease correct??? yep believe me i have been doing this for a very time as a shop foreman union factory tech. and keep those bearing at the loose side of the tolerance. now the Harley book states to check the bearing at 10K and that means when the new tires are installed which i do on my 1990 FXRP and the 1997 FXDL but what about the 2020 FXLR sealed bearings should i just pop in new replacement bearing from the Harley Dealer ???
Great video thx...
Good man!
Damn, why does Harley make everything to difficult to work on? Between this and line-reaming half the engine, it's ridiculous.
A daft punk -Harley D needs to eat dessert too, lol.
I'm not to cheap to pay a wrench, I just don't trust the guys I find working in the dealers. Harley doesn't support anything older than 10 years. That tells me those guys aren't really trained to install tapered bearings. I know I'll get it right...
Harley is all about nostalgia..until it comes to an old bike..😵💫
good video to the point