Yeah I'm with you on not whoopin on the crankshaft to get the flywheel off - you could shift it and put it in a bind with the case. The Stihl copied threaded flywheel pullers from FT work really well and are only $20. Dunno if I'd oil the tapered friction mating surfaces?
Very cool so widening the key way on the flywheel changes the timing, what i don't get is now it's wider and the key is loose so how do you secure your new timing advance in place when there is "slop" with the shaft/key and flywheel groove? I mean can that extra play now eventually slide/change back to non advanced?
Really good point. The key is just to align the timing. The taper and nut is what keeps it from rotating. The key can’t stop the flywheel if the nut backs off and flywheel loses the friction fit to the crank
To add to this, the key is also the designed fail point, instead of losing the flywheel or detonating your piston. Key shear sucks. Figuring out why and where can be maddening, I'm talking everything checks out repeatedly...until you flip the saw sideways and slightly upside down and then boom, crank seal gargles, or impulse line, or gasket but only in THIS position. But that's enough to burn a saw, or keep it from keeping a tune. Or you could be working on old given up on West Germany saws, say fuck it after spending 2 weeks trying to find micro fractures and just skim jb weld around the entire case. Don't ask, I don't want to relive it - but that all metal 045 is a workhorse, to this day. If you pull your cord and the saw pulls back on you, this is in your future. Consider it your small engine final exam, or boss battle. At least you level up after you fix it properly. Old timey loggers, production guys, back when the world was all black and white, used to use locktite, not only on every screw and bolt but also on their seals and they might've been onto something there.
@B_Van_Glorious such a good point! You don’t want to make the failure point weaker. Really good stuff all around. I have an 056 and really like the way it runs. They all have a downside or tradeoff between light weight / reliability / speed / longevity / etc etc. I think the trade offs have been worth it in most cases up until the electronic fuel systems came into play. I like the lightest weight saw I can get away with though
Great tip i found, a quick sharp knock on the crank sprocket with a copper hammer, the vibration loosens the flywheel
Yeah I'm with you on not whoopin on the crankshaft to get the flywheel off - you could shift it and put it in a bind with the case. The Stihl copied threaded flywheel pullers from FT work really well and are only $20. Dunno if I'd oil the tapered friction mating surfaces?
I’ll have to check out that flywheel puller! I can tell you the oil doesn’t make the flywheels come off any easier on the 2nd go round
Very cool so widening the key way on the flywheel changes the timing, what i don't get is now it's wider and the key is loose so how do you secure your new timing advance in place when there is "slop" with the shaft/key and flywheel groove? I mean can that extra play now eventually slide/change back to non advanced?
Really good point. The key is just to align the timing. The taper and nut is what keeps it from rotating. The key can’t stop the flywheel if the nut backs off and flywheel loses the friction fit to the crank
To add to this, the key is also the designed fail point, instead of losing the flywheel or detonating your piston.
Key shear sucks. Figuring out why and where can be maddening, I'm talking everything checks out repeatedly...until you flip the saw sideways and slightly upside down and then boom, crank seal gargles, or impulse line, or gasket but only in THIS position. But that's enough to burn a saw, or keep it from keeping a tune.
Or you could be working on old given up on West Germany saws, say fuck it after spending 2 weeks trying to find micro fractures and just skim jb weld around the entire case. Don't ask, I don't want to relive it - but that all metal 045 is a workhorse, to this day.
If you pull your cord and the saw pulls back on you, this is in your future. Consider it your small engine final exam, or boss battle. At least you level up after you fix it properly. Old timey loggers, production guys, back when the world was all black and white, used to use locktite, not only on every screw and bolt but also on their seals and they might've been onto something there.
@B_Van_Glorious such a good point! You don’t want to make the failure point weaker.
Really good stuff all around. I have an 056 and really like the way it runs. They all have a downside or tradeoff between light weight / reliability / speed / longevity / etc etc.
I think the trade offs have been worth it in most cases up until the electronic fuel systems came into play. I like the lightest weight saw I can get away with though
Good work
What website did you get the g660 from ??
I got it from the Holzfforma website. But Amazon is a good source too
I do!!!