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How To Bleed A Ford Ranger Clutch Master Cylinder & Fix a Soft Pedal!
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- Опубліковано 5 лис 2011
- Procedure to bleed the air out of the hydraulic clutch master cylinder. Use this method if you have a mushy pedal and you've tried to bleed the system at the slave cylinder. Very useful if you ran out of fluid and got air in the system
Thanks for the tip! After watching your video I purchased a syringe at Walmart and did about the same thing poking the syringe down in the reservoir to make a good seal to the outlet. I first removed the little plastic cup-like thing. Put syringe in, poured brake fluid around it and pulled the air out. Then when I pulled the syringe up the brake fluid sucked back down. Did that 3 or 4 times and have a good clutch pedal now.
Good afternoon. Would you explain your process in more detail? I have a general idea of what you did, but would like some more clarification.
This worked for me! Worth a try to anyone with same problem. This is why I love UA-cam. Thanks a million friend!
TLDR; Used this technique to fix a brand new clutch master that would not bleed.
I was skeptical of this the first time I had seen the video, and dismissed it. But this weekend I needed to replace my clutch master. After numerous attempts at bench bleeding the line, I took the brand new master back for replacement. There was 3/8" of play in the plunger, and no amount of bench bleeding was fixing it. Parts store could get me a part tomorrow.
Well, I recalled this video and I decided that I had nothing to lose with a new master coming. Took the failing master in the basement, popped the snap ring, pulled the plunger out until fluid came spilling out, and put it back together. It immediately felt better. I was able to complete the bench bleed now, until there wasn't any plunger movement. Installed it, gravity bled the slave. All is good now.
Great idea!
Hey man, this video is about 12 years old and it's STILL helping people. My ranger was so bad I was pumping my pedal in between shifts. I had three mechanics give me four different solutions all involving a new clutch ranging in prices from $400-$2000.
I found your video and spent $30 on a pair of good snap ring pliers and I'm so glad I gave this a shot. I feel like I drive a brand new vehicle.
Cannot thank you enough! Cheers
Thanks for the comment, and I'm glad you got your truck fixed!
I am an automotive technician let me tell you something this definitely work after so many years of struggling with this clutch problem I myself own a Ford Ranger I went through this problem about 6 times with other vehicles and for the first time tonight I finally figured out the problem thank you so much may God bless you
Indeed!
*_Attention If you are replacing cracked clutch brake pedal assembly mount_*
Under the dashboard in the cab,
the master cylinder requires only a quarter turn twist, with little force, such that its fixed square at the end can slide through the floor mount square hole where its seated. Just behind that mount square hole, between the mount and the fire wall, is flat but wavy ring sprung tensioner washer that helps keep that more firmly held in place.
It looked is a lot harder then I thought as I wasn't familiar with these catches and twists.
After that the rod from the clutch pedal comes off and can now be pulled through the fire wall.
It was painstakingly awkward removing that clutch break pedal assembly mount that cracked where it held the rotational arm that both pedals are attached to.
The 1/2 inch deep socket and short extension works but an impact wrench/ drill made quicker work of it.
*_However, the last bolt in the upper left corner is to shallow for the socket and wrench to fit, even with a short socket_* . A box wrench didn't work because there's not enough space to turn it. A flatter ratchet box wrench,1/2 inch, may be the answer, too, but its will require many short turns and patience.
A smaller socket wrench with an articulated head may do the trick. I imagine a seasoned Ford technician has a more elegant tool or approach.
The pedal assembly is almost $200 from the dealer, as cheap $80 on eBay (part # 6L5Z2455BB allegedly fits 1995-2006 Ranger) and sufficiently less cost at Pick-n- Pull, if you cant await delivery bit can tolerate a 2 hour extraction mission.
Unfortunately only 3 vehicles have it, the Ranger, the Explorer Sport and Explorer Sport Trac.
It's truly puzzling determining if the vehicles at Pick-n-Pull will have the part. First, note set date or when they put the vehicle out. Allegedly about 10-14 days later they scrap the vehicle (P&P is a subsidiary of Schnitzel Steel) The vehicle may remain a bit longer?? but the listing is no guarantee its there and calling may or may not be fruitful in making that determination.
Now the listing provides the Vin # and the best you'll get is 4 speed auto - 5 speed manual, I kid you not. The only way to devine which is by providing the last eight digits of the Vin # to the willing, generally very forthcoming, Ford parts department and they shall know if its automatic or manual.
Dint be fooled by an online search of websites that suggest they can tell you; they can't.
You will find that every digit tells you useful things. Oddly the 4th through 8 digit (not the last 8 digits) reveal the type of the transmission but further search was fruitless in identifying whether its manual or not!!
There are two or three very good videos on how to bleed the line for the clutch line to the break Master cylinder to the reservoir by hanging it from the reservoir. The flexible rubber line is bent then flat at two places that trap air. Thus its not advised to bleed in place as the air bubbles move left to eight but not up and out the reservoir.
So, the simplistic method shown in this video is a highly remarkable workaround and possibly a big and effort savor.
Man ! I almost pulled my transmission back out and replaced my slave cylinder again until I ran across this video . Thank you sir you have saved me a lot of time
Pulling the piston from the clutch cylinder to bleed air out goes against everything I have ever known. I didn't believe it would work but it did! Thank you so much for the easy effective fix!
+Mark Arrietta My feelings exactly but wow, its done now
I've been driving around pumping the clutch at every stoplight for six months. Your video showed everything I needed to know. The snap ring was definitely the hardest part of the job. It took me two hours to do everything, and that includes removing the drivers seat, (I'm a big guy), and the run to O'reilley's to buy a better pair of snap ring pliers. 198,000 miles on the old Ranger, and the clutch is as smooth as it was at 000,003 miles when I bought it new. Good video, THANK YOU!
Awesome video very helpful I got stranded in the middle of nowhere my clutch wouldn't engage any gear I went online found this and you saved my butt lol thank you
1994 ford ranger
I'm in that situation now, stuck and grasping at straws and this isn't helping.
I replaced the master cylinder assembly thinking it was going to be easy. Lucky for me I found your video. I bled the system just like you did and it still left air in the master cylinder. I fixed it by a slightly different procedure. I disconnected the switch and push rod again, disconnected the reservoir in the engine compartment and removed the master cylinder from the firewall by twisting it counter clockwise.
i did that now i cant get it back in the firewall??
My parents' 98 ranger had had clutch problems for the past several months. I bled it and bled it and bled it and it only would work for a few weeks at a time. I'm a mechanic by profession so this blew my mind. I was so close to saying screw it and throwing a whole new master, slave, etc. in. Did this trick and it felt like a brand new truck. GREAT VID!! AWESOME!
Thank you. You saved my work week and pocket book. I didn't know how I was going to get to work and now I my truck drives better then the day I got it. A million times, thank you! A heavy weight of worry has been lifted... God bless you.
This is a great video spot on!
The "soft pedal feel" happens to my ranger every night it gets,,, I'll say below or around freezing or mostly around the winter time. I'll wake up start my 2004 ranger and with my clutch pedal pressed down my truck starts but clutch will not engage a gears. I'll Check my fluid levels in my... Clutch fluid? And it'll be darn near empty.
I did these exact instructions and got the exact results. now my clutch is nice and solid. I did have to use a zip tie to keep the part connected to my pedal which works fine .
jordon manning I'm glad it worked for you, but it sounds like your slave cylinder may be starting to go. I hope I'm wrong though because it's a pain to do. Check out my video on how to replace it. Good luck!
Just got through the procedure... and thank God it worked... How you made a video doing it is unbelievable much less getting the clips off and showing us.. Many thanks for this video.. I broke that little plastic nut off and getting that snap ring off was ridulously hard.. I tried and tried and tried, then I would come up and watch the video and read all the comments, and it seems every one of us has had trouble with that snap ring.. Mine did not go back on... Oh well.. anyway... Thanks again!
Guy sold me his truck cheap because he couldn't get it bled to drive. Been parked for 6 months. I got bought it, got it down the street to walgreens parking lot, used you technique, and drove home perfectly!!
I really would love to buy you a case of beer!!
Thanks!!
This is a gentleman who knows his stuff, I've watched multiple videos at least a dozen or so and I've not come across a more tried and true method than this.....a master Machanic secret....thanks again Excellent video and instruction! !!!!
Ford engineers / designers should be forced to remove parts from cars with normal hand tools so they can experience how difficult they make it to replace parts. If they can't they lose their jobs and all retirement.
Amen, brother.
Lol once you patiently worked on it for 20 hours its a piece of cake😂
SO. FREAKING. EASY!! Thanks for the video - really helped me out! A guy at a transmission shop told me I'd have to pump the clutch for 3 days or so to get life back in it.... guess what? THAT DIDN'T WORK. This video, a little aggravation with a snap ring, and 20 minutes later, PERFECT. Thanks for the help :)
The BEST video out there!! Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video and share it! 1994 Ford Ranger
Caroline Pabst Glad to help out. Happy Ranger'n
I've watched hours of your motorcycle restoration videos for entertainment and just realized it was a jennies garage video teaching me how to bleed my daily's clutch!!!!
Had to change out the clutch got that done then I noticed Awesome thank you for the video. I watched several videos bleeding the clutch other ways none work except your video. Thx again
Thank you for this video. I had spent hours trying to get the clutch working and my wife suggested this video. Wha la! It's fixed. Thank you!
I was at my wits end with this thing. Thats is the one thing I never thought to try. Every janky trick I tried got me close , but still no Cigar. Yours is the straw that broke the camels back. Thank you 🎉🎉🎉
Glad it worked for you!
My son and i had tried multiple things to get pressure at the clutch. After watching this video, wallah, fixed! Thanks a million!!
Glad it worked for you!
YOU ARE MY HERO! This saved me so much time and skin, by not having to wrestle the master cylinder out of the car to turn it the right side up. I was able to get a more complete bleed by pointing the Explorer downhill and putting the rear wheels on ramps. (which got the snap ring side of the MC closer to level)
Hey man, I just did this on a friends 97 Ford Explorer. It totally fixed the problem and it was pretty easy to do. A pair of circlip pliers helped a great deal. Thanks for figuring it out and posting the video!!!
I created a google account just to say thankyou. This fixed my truck and was simple.
Thanks man its people like you that makes the world a better place to live it fixed my truck and Im rolling again thank you again
This is the simplest fix for this issue!! Seems no one knows about it so thank you so much!!
Thank you so much for posting this video... had to get in there at first to understand the blurrier images, but this has ultimately helped someone who has never done anything like this before fix the problem in a matter of hours!
Thanx man! I went back and looked at the video again and If your not quick u will miss it because of the light.But caught it and paused it and got a good look at it.Like I said your video's are awsome!! Out of most of the vid's out there your are very detailed and helpful u cover just about everything where other video's lack alot of detail. Thanx Again!!
Clutch was going soft. Then would not disengage yesterday morning until after a few pumps. I made it to work 25 miles away and put some fluid into the clutch reservoir as it was empty with wetness at the bottom. This morning, same issue. Got it working again and got out of my driveway, up the winding road a couple of miles, slowed down to make a turn and no clutch. Truck stalled after making the turn. I refilled the reservoir, got it started, pumped the pedal a few times and disengaged the clutch and drove it back home backwards. (I ain't stopping when it's well below zero here in Alaska.) Thankfully, no road traffic. Researched online and watched a couple of videos which made no sense to this back yard mechanic here. Then I watched yours and it made complete sense. Now to get my fat arse all bundled up against the cold out side to bleed the thing. Side note to FORD, I like your trucks but y'all are a buncha yahoos for making em hard to work on! 2011 Ford Ranger here.
hands down the best video on how to do the master cylinder bleeding. Trying this out tomorrow and hoping for the best.
Hope you get it fixed!
WOOOOO HOOOO!, Thank you!!! My clutch works perfectly now. I changed my slave cylinder recently and after bleeding it, for about 5 hours, still had a soft pedal and wouldn't disengage the clutch properly. I had about given up until a came across your video. Thank you, Thank you Thank you!!
IT WORKED PERFECTLY! I had no pedal,so a buddy and I did exactly as you said. The hard part was popping out the ring.couldn't get ring back in
I was looking up how to bleed a clutch and found your video. After being subbed for years I was so happy to see your video pop up. Love watching y’all’s stuff.
Thanks for sharing the biggest secret. My truck would be sitting for a long time if you didn't post this video. Mechanics do the normal pumping and bleeding which works for 99 percent of cars and trucks but not for ford ranger. Thanks again.
Thank you for posting this video! My clutch hasn't worked this good in YEARS! I know...that's not a good thing, however I'm just a garage mechanic trying to save some money. I do plan in the future to bench bleed the system upon new slave cylinder install. Rangers are awesome!
I have a 93 ranger xlt. Your video sure did help me out. Thank you for your help on helping me to learn some thing New and saving me some major cash.
Thank you for this information. Just did my buddies ranger. It worked like a charm. The bled for two hours yesterday. I also followed up with my vacuum pump like another post showed
This method works wonders. I have an aftermarket master cylinder, so I had to half way take the master out of the square hole to get the rod out far enough for fluid to come out. It worked instantly after I put it all back together. I was able to get the snap ring out with a normal pick and just pried it out, but I don’t think I can get the thing back where it was. I believe it just prevents the rod from coming out, but mine is aftermarket and I can’t take the rod out enough to do anything unless I halfway pull the master out, so it shouldn’t be a problem anyways. Saved me so much time doing this. Thank you
Thank you very much. Worked like a champ. I was about to put a different master cylinder in it but watched your video first after trying to bleed it for hours. I even had a mechanic come over and look at it and he thought the master cylinder was bad also. Thanks again!!
Good thing you didn't get another master as you would have had to do it to that 1 too lol
Wow dude. Thank you for the video. You helped me get some extreme brownie points with the in laws. And it was super effective.
Oh my god dude I was about to spend at LEAST $120 just trying to find out whayt was wrong with it. Then I watch your video and got it fixed with my dad in TWO HOURS!!! So if we ever see you I will buy a case for beer. THANK YOU!!!!!!!!
Just followed your directions and presto, back in business! thanks for the vid and to all tubers- this was a great vid!
Thank you so much. I had the hardest time trying to bleed that dang line. I could get it to where it would drive but it was difficult to shift but after doing this procedure it is back to better than new. I can not thank you enough.
+Gregory McConnell Glad your truck is working again!
Dude Thank you so much! I thought I needed a clutch, and I just tried this as a last resort and my clutch feels brand new again. Goes into every single gear perfectly! Thanks!!
+wilfred colon Good to hear, thanks
Was it going into gear rough at a stop and grinding at times while moving ?
Dude... After fighting with mine for over 4 hours I watched your video I was back going again in less than an hour so do appreciate you posting this video.
Good to hear you're back on the road, and thanks for the kind words.
I was having the same trouble with my Ford F150 and this video helped me get it back up and running> Thanks very much for the information! God Bless!
Dude...Thanks! I've been a mechanic for 18 years and fought with these things every time. Usually I get it to work with a good bench bleeding, but this time I didn't. So, good ol' google brought me here. This works great! The snap ring can be a bit of a p.i.a. to get too though. At least in the model I was working on, it's tough to get good visibility under the dash. But it was well worth the hassle compared to pulling the thing back out and bench bleeding again.
I broke the clip that connects the rod to the pedal but aside from that I was successful.I want to say thank you for the tip,I now have a full pedal for the first time since buying the truck.Also for anyone reading this post,go ahead and buy a pair of small snap ring pliers and a small extendable mirror,well worth the fifteen or so dollars if you are going to do this.
Thanks so much man! This helped out a lot. I have a mazda b3000 of the same year, which is basically the same truck. This made it a 10 minute fix instead of a whole day project! Thanks so much!
Wow thank you! Everything i read said no way to bleed my system as it has an internal slave cylinder. This worked GREAT!!
Thanks for the video. I did this it home and it worked! The snap ring was a little tricky and pulling the plunger out that last little bit was a little hard to do but overall it was easy and worked great. Thanks again!
I spent hrs with a Autocraft brake bleeder trying to bleed my clutch from the reservoir after actually making it worse meaning now I had 0 pedal pressure . I gave in and tried your technique. I removed the rod then the snap ring then worked the plastic plunger part hoping to get the squirt of brake fluid took it completely out and it was bone dry . So I then took that handy Autocraft brake bleeder filled it with clean fluid and filled the actuator of course with the rod plunger out put it back together and wallah ! Stiff pedal shifts in and out of gears like new . Thanks bro
WOOOO BUDDY this fix came through in the CLUTCH!!! THANKS!!!
Bro you are a god! Worked for my 1997 mazda b2300 like a charm. Also replaced my oring on my clutch line. Just a tip for anyone reading this. Get snap ring pliers to remove and put that ring back in. They are 15 dolars at orileys and worth every penny. Again thanks man great video!
Got it done. I pulled the master cyclinder through the firewall and angled it down and pumped it by hand from underneath the truck. Then i just had to worry about any air bubbles in the line down to the slave cylinder. Thanks for the tips!
I just replace the clutch in a 88 ranger and this video has helped out a lot. I haven't tried it yet but i think i will have to. Thats why i love youtube. Thanks a lot man.
This was very helpful. It worked on my 97 Ranger. I had some trouble getting the piston out of the master cylinder though. The top of the shaft was hitting under the dash and I had to push it aside while pushing to keep the piston aligned to get it out. Funny thing was that when I got it out no fluid came out. I was able to take the piston completely out. It was only after I put my finger in the cylinder did the fluid start coming out. Also, good thing I put rags on the floor beforehand.
Thanks for the video it fixed my no clutch problem!
Hey, thanks for the vid...you saved me a lot of headache..was a pain in the ass but it worked just how you said. Glad you could get close enough to show it!
Thanks a lot for posting your video! It helped a lot but it was definitely a tedious process!
I tell ya. This has been a lifesaver to me. I have looked everywhere for an easy way to bleed the air from my master cylinder. I usually take it to the garage and have the system pressure bled. Which runs into money seeing as this is a bad setup and is constantly getting air in the system. Thanks so much for posting this video. Tomorrow I am goin to try this.
I hope it goes well, good luck with the job!
***** Well, it didnt work for me. I poured my master back full of fluid and everything and it still doesnt have a pedal. Think my master cylinder may be bad. Thanks just the same!
Too bad, hopefully you get back on the roud soon!
just wanted to say thank you for posting this video. I changed my clutch master and slave cylinder and bleed all the lines with no hope until I watched this video and tried it. now I'm Back riding. once again thanks
That's great, glad you're back on the road!
thanks
Cadillac Freeman would you recommend bleeding the whole line first before trying this?
Thanks for checking in, I hope the job goes well!
Great advice! Mechanic quoted $1000 for slave cylinder replacement. This did the trick! 2004 Ranger 3.0L
Ross Stanich Wow, it's not every day you can earn $1000. Glad it worked for you!
THANK YOU SIR!!! I guess every darn stick shift ranger owner should watch your video.Thank you, Thank you, Thank you! The ford dealer in my town doesn't know this trick, they replace the master cylinder, resiviour and slave cylinder as ONE unit. They get it all conected together from there supplier that way. Auto shop teacher at my college doesn't know this either. Guess what... thank you.
Thanks man, been bleeding mine for a day or two! Doing this tomorrow.
Great idea. also I use a way that I copied from a young guy here in youtube. You use an oilier with a hose and force air thru the bleeder at the bottom up to fill the system. it works perfectly.
+Pedro Talavera good idea!
Thanks for the video, worked like a charm truck runs great now
Worked on an 86 Bronco II. Thanks for posting this.
Thanks for the video. Just completed the process on my 2003 B2300. I haven't driven it yet, but it when running it shifts much better through all gears. I've had to shut it off to get reverse for almost a week.
It appears that there is much less room under the dash on my later model truck though. Pulling the piston was damn near impossible, as the dash and other components kept interfering with the rod. It took quite a bit of fanageling and more than a little force to make it come. When it did, it did so with a great splash of fluid. Fortunately I had a towel on the floor and eye protection on. My sweatshirt took a beating though.
Thanks again for the video. I read how to do this a few times, and it's much less daunting to see it instead of just reading about it.
Drives great again.
Thanks
Glad it worked for you!
I went ahead and pulled the 2 nuts on firewall and pulled it out to engine bay left everything connected except the rod pulled snap ring and glory hallelujah it worked thank you sir for your fine bleeding hack. Mine is a 95 f-150
Thanks for the comment. It's good to know the same trick works on the f150
some helpful pointers.. 1) slip the flathead between the operating rod and pivot, then gently pry. It comes off without damage.
2) spilling brake fluid on the floor board will eat the paint off and lead to rusted out floor pan. Go ahead and pull the master cyl first.
3) with the master cylinder out, you can push the clip back in place with a 1/8" punch, or tool of choice. starting on the closed end of the ring, working towards the gap makes life easier.
* good luck!!
just wanted to say a big thank you for this video
You are a great son in law! Glad you got it fixed!
Thanks for the video, I did the same thing with a Ford Fiesta and it really helped, still don´t know where the leak isbut the car works now. Tanks again.
Great video !! , My 94 ford ranger dumped the clutch 2 days ago , 29 yrs old and this is the 1st issue with the clutch, I had to pin it to the floor to shift and get home, now it just wont go in gear ...hopefully it's just a simple system bleed ...
Thank you for this video worked perfectly on my 97 Mazda B2300
Definitely good trucks...Awesome may be a stretch in vocabulary. Good to hear, mine is a 2002 with 225,000+ and also still running strong.
You are a Lifesaver thank you so much for sharing this info.
Thank very much, your video was very useful for me
Lol my clutch system needed a good hour long flush too before i remembered about how the master holds tons of air. Oh ford bless there hearts
Thank you for the video it really helped me out !
I’m going to have to try that. Just had my clutch and clutch slave cylinder replaced and I’m having the problem where my pedal is hitting the floor to engage the clutch. Thanks for the help.
Good job getting it fixed. Best of luck with Midas!
I was having shifting problems after replacing the slave and clutch, hard to get into every gear and a pedal that was soft at the top. Also some no click no crank starting issues which I would attribute to the switch on the pedal. After doing this both issues were resolved and the truck feels great. Snap ring was really hard to get off but the rest wasn't so bad. (1997 ranger)
Same I am about to fucking strangle someone over the snap ring
this did work for my 1998 mazda. thanks for the info
Thank you for your excellent video worked out great. Tim
Thanks for this great video!
I just finished following your lead and doing this to my 97 Ranger. Wow is it ever tight trying to pull out that last little bit of the rod! It takes some bending!
Worked like a charm!
Thanks!!
thanks for the info....how in the world did you do this and hold a camera at the same time.i had a hard time just doing it and not holding anything.
Thanks its like the only good video of this on UA-cam
thanx this was very helpful it worked just like u say in the video
This saved my ass. Thanks for the help.
Thanks! I'm glad it worked for you :)
I was able to take out the snap ring even with a long nosed plier, but can't get it back because I'd be needing the snap ring plier for the job.
Thanks! Helped me a bunch. Yup I have my clutch back.
Thanks, My brother in law works for a local Ford dealership and he asked the clutch guy what he thought. He said it was the slave cylinder also. I will pick one up this week and will change it next week. It still is working OK but I am sure it is not going to heal itself. While I am in there I might as well change the clutch and PP.
got it back together worked great that was the problem ! thanks