CHAINSAW CLUTCH REMOVAL EP.05
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- Опубліковано 29 лис 2016
- Today we romove the clutch on my Stihl 066 chainsaw to clean and inspect it. Removing a chainsaw clutch is not difficult to do but it can make you a little nervous at first. I'm happy to say everything came out ok with my chainsaw.
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From 4:00 to 5:00 is the reason I watched this video. Thanks Guy
I replayed this multiple times and I was in tears! You got a bigger wrench and it was making some noise like something was about to bust. “I wonder what the smart way to do this would be “, OMG you’re so funny! 5:00 in. Soo hilarious I had to show my family and we were laughing so bloody hard. Awesome job, thanks for the laugh you made my day man
Oh man was this good! I paused it after you showed how to stop it from spinning and I just could not get it to budge and I was worried I missed something so I resumed play and then you had the same problem! So that made me feel better. I clamped the saw down and kept pushing and it finally went. I've got an 880 Magnum so I really didn't wanna screw it up either! Thanks!
Nice job. I once lost one of those sprocket circlips whilst removing it. When I went to the dealer he said "so you lost your wheres the hell clip". He explained that they are called "wheres the hell clips" because most DIY'ers go "wheres the hell that gone" as it flies off never to be seen again!
I was sooo lucky that little bugger landed on the workbench. "Where's the hell clips" - Love it!
As a tip, next time don't use a piston stop and a wrench. Just take off the recoil spring assembly on the other side, then use an impact wrench to unscrew the clutch. it should be off in 1-2 seconds.
Can confirm I just did this with my ms310 works very well
I find it better when something is super tight and won’t budge it’s better to smack it and jarr it than to brute force it, that’s why people end up hitting their knuckles on everything. Just a tip from someone that’s been doing it for years!
Yes, that would have been a better way to go. I was concerned because it was my first time removing the clutch and I didn't want to break anything. I've heard an impact wrench works great for this job.
That’s not too much grease... In fact it’s not enough... You need to pack the grease into the bearing and squeeze it though the spaces between each metal roller until it oozes out, that way you know you’ve greased the whole thing... Also you need to be using a lithium based grease, whatever you are using is not lithium based... But other than that, great video, it’s a huge help!
Brilliant ... nice clean up and doesn't look to have worked too hard or been abused...
The vanishing clip... use a sizeable rare earth magnet to catch the bugger. Doesn't work every time but it's the best way I've found for C and E-clips ;o)
John, nice info and a good update on the saw, thank you.
Glad you're enjoying the series Joe. I've sharpened the chain and tomorrow I'll be rebuilding the carb.
Good job.
“Holy cow, zowwy that is on there”. Lolol.
0:38 - that sprocket thing looks worn out and the wrong way on the saw
Love the series as I do all your vids. Probably serves you well also in case you forget how something comes off or goes on.
Thanks for the positive comments. It's funny but I referred to a previous video I made about chainsaws for information for this series.
I had no idea about that little notch in There. Thanks
Clutch drum and needle cage bearing. Great video just a tip next time its that tight use a cheater bar or a breaker bar.
Nice remove and you kept your knuckle safe
Holy cow was that clutch on their tight! Thank goodness I had a 1/2" breaker bar.
Good job
Clockwise to loosen
Counter Clockwise to tighten
anyone know what torque spec would be for an MS361
Thank for the video helps a lot
Nice video, thanks.
Unwinding the clutch recommend rope only in 80% of cases of damages to the top-middle of the piston
Anyone know what the bar holders referred to at about 11:45 are ? Never heard of these before Cheers
Clean that out over parts washer bin. Don’t use brake clean as that could damage the paint and plastic, nothing 7:00 with acetone. Could try old gasoline and a rough brissle brush. Wear and N95 and do it outside with compressed air if you go that path.
Im worried about spinning the crank using this method. But I guess if dealers does it.
Why did you do that, was the clutch slipping?
Blind leading the blind
Thanks for commenting!
what kind of chain is that called not going to big box stores scmidt and serafine aurora st or tracter supply
The saw had a full chisel chain on it. .375 pitch, .050 gauge, 72 drive links.
Should be 36 lb ft of torque
should have used an impact wrench. Much safer.
i ended up here bcoz of that.and i dont have that special tool.not helping😂
No no no..use a electric impact! That cave man tectneak was brutal on piston walls
Toothbrush and gas
Hated watching you breaking that thing free :/ Yeah they're a beast BUT it's actually something you can get on 1-2 tries max if you just focus on 'that initial impact' not 'how much total strength can I build-up on that wrench/cheat-bar?'....it's all about torque, you've gotta get the unit positioned properly and *securely* so it doesn't move when you 'strike' (whether using hand, or a hammer/mallet, to initiate the removal), and position your wrench's handle at around 1:30-->3:30 on the nut so you're able to either use hammer/mallet strike to knock it down (CW to remove as you mention), or just to put your body&strength into it which is enough usually, but for *both* it's critical, 'failure or success', in how you *start* the move, it needs to be a snapping/jerky/torque'y motion, super high *power* (strength+speed), not what your body motion was going for (which was max *strength*, which does produce more total force but it's the jerky 'change in force' that frees it)
(NOTE-- if removing it, it's reasonable to presume there was damage and, if so, note that your outer circlip ('e-clip' technically) may not rotate or move at all on that shaft, if that's the case use a sml screwdriver & mallet to 'free' it instead of trying to work it off while it's 'bound'! Same can apply to the clutch-drum itself, am glad I'd seen this video when doing mine because I could see how easily CTSCAPER moved the clutch-drum off of the shaft, whereas mine still felt 'secured' after I removed everything else on the shaft....once again a gentle-but-*firm* (ie more torquey than strength-y!) tap on that drum 'freed' it, and it came off easily by-hand)
Thanks for the videos, majorly appreciate it!! OH and Re cleaning areas like that...if there's surfaces that need more-than just light grease, IMO you should keep the brake-clean (any solvent sprays, including wd40) away, because it's gonna wash-out heavier grease on things that need it like those roller-/cage-bearings that interface the clutch//shaft (or piston//piston-rod), I slather these w/ Lucas Marine Grease and rub the excess off...when I was newer to saw-tinkering I would open my climbsaw after almost every use, to clean the bar/chain/clutch/oiler/tensioner/etc, anyway would use carb-clean and brake-clean.....I'd need to go do the whole clutch-removal, just to put a dab of Marine Grease on that lil cage bearing, because the saw would start squeeling (took me 2 or 3 times of this happening before I realized *I* was causing it by washing-out the grease :P )
IMO the best for cleaning is a variety of brushes and plastic picks&scrapers, and for chemicals if it's an area you want something but can't use solvents you can always "flood-out" using spray-lithium-grease ;D Would cost you a can, and a throwaway 1" brush, but that'd be enough to wipe-out & flood-out your setup there ;)
Thanks again, have used this video like 3-4x now (am working 2 of these saws...mine aren't OEM, and I've got 2, but I still get as fearful as you when doing something I'm not confident on like you removing that clutch nut ;D )
It shouldn't look like that,,, looks like a crank-seal leak to me
Why would you not tie the saw down to the bench or something. Watching that was driving me nuts. And not wanting to use compressed air from contaminating the atmosphere? Sure you want to run the risk of operating a chainsaw?
Great question! It was my first time.
@@CTSCAPER right on, I always throw a tie down over the saw, cause the nut is very shallow, gives you more control to save your nuckles. My book says to crank 37ftlbs on that nut but I never go that high cause I always felt that ways way to much, now if you ever change your chain brake assembly in that saw be careful cause it can bite you pretty hard if your not careful bud
If you’re going to do mechanical work get to know what Never Seize is for.
I had the same problem, I finally used a hammer drill and 19mm socket-bam! off in seconds. Thanks for showing the proper way the lg washer goes on under the clutch, many other videos dont show that.