I have a harbor freight mill and the first thing I done was to remove the blade guide blocks,I used the original bolts and bought some washers for spacers and bought some small bearings I think they were 22 mm in diameter and I run 2 on top of the blade and 2 on the bottom.The blade when under load rides on the bearing surfaces and it does indeed extend blade life along with smoother cuts.You can buy these bearings and washers for near nothing,but always have spare parts.
I used a trigger switch upper valve. Had a old brass trigger on a weed sprayer. So I lengthen top hose to the handle the down to the volume valve down below, the trigger turns off and on quickly. I used a cable system on the wheels. I used sealed bearing like on the skateboards cost low enough. Water tank a racing fuel jug up side down work for me. Hudson sawmill have a nice locking dog system. My was used, also. Maintenance maintenance maintenance!!!
@@TheDoItYourselfWorld Awesome review. I learned a lot from your pros and cons were great because you explained why it was good or what you were frustrated with but could fix and idease about how. regarding the steel cable to clean the wheel, the bolted steel cable could also wear the wheel and make accurate depth cuts more difficult. A brass brush might clean the wheel without wearing the wheel.
I've owner the HF sawmill for a couple years now. Here's my running list of woulda-coulda-shoulda Cons: 1. The rail sections are not exactly the same profile. They had to be shimmed to prevent an uneven bump. To make sure you have a planar set of rails, you'll need a long straight edge. However when the rails are shimmed, this brings the bunks out of plane. Only solution is long solid rails. 2. The clamps are wonky. The bolt with the yoke on the end doing the clamping is weak. Weld on a couple of nuts and T-handles for certain clamping. 3. Two-post only. Only a pair of bolts at the base of each upright determine the position (perpendicularity) of the gantry. You can tighten the bolts/nuts to where the tubing deforms, but there's still nothing to keep the head from slipping. With the bolts loose, the gantry can tip 5-7 degree. The design also makes the gantry very flexible side-to-side. Cutting poplar, cedar and pine/spruce I didn't really have any issues. But on fresh red oak and maple (tougher) I get some waviness right after initial penetration. However I've only run Cook's blades so far. Going to try Woodmizer blades soon. 4. Both blade guides are fixed. Would be nice if the upstream guide was adjustable. 5. The screw driving the cable tensioner is standard thread. Should be an Acme thread. A standard thread will wear under the load of the saw head. 6. Dust exit cute clogs easily, especially when using water bottle. 7. Dust deposits heavily on the downstream-side rail and leading wheel, which can take the gantry out of plane if heavy enough. 8. Water valve is very flimsy & wonky low quality. Also should be 2 valves -- one for on/off and another set at your desired flow rate. 9. Water bottle is too small. 10. Clamp heads are pointed. A blunt head would not mark/crack the wood as much. Clamp handles are cranks. A slip T-handle would be better where the T would typically slide down out of the way. 11. There is something up with the interface between the adjustable gantry uprights and the saw head. The upper left end and lower right end of the interface has a stack of 4-5 washers to true up the mate. 12. No lift point or lift hooks. You will very likely take the saw head out of plane if you lift using the top crossbar. 13. Nuts and bolts are serrated. So anyplace you cinch up a fastener, the paint chips and is prone to rust. Should be washers, lock washers or nyloc nuts. 14. The provided manual is a joke. I use HM122/126 manuals for technical information. 15. No hex head or socket wrench hole on the tension handle for tensioning the blade. I drilled a hole in the t-handle and welded a 3/4" bolt.
Great video and info! Thank you for taking the time. I do have a question however. You mentioned if you were to get rid of this mill, you would get the Woodland Mill. I am seriously considering a mill, actually got a quote. Went to order it and they wouldn't honor the quote, it was another $2100.00 more. There is more to the story but suffice it to say instead of pulling the trigger, the shot wasn't right so I put the safety back on! I just read some comments so I see you have gotten a different mill. I will check out your latest video as you said.
How hard would it be to weld scrapers for the wheels and track. Instead of plane the 4x4 for extension why didn't you just make 2 inch wide notch to drop the steel down
Keeping the mill up off the ground is how we set up ours as well. My brother and I decided that we could easily get any log it can cut up to the deck rather than having to bend over for every board coming off the mill.
That was true with this mill and my thoughts too. But check my newest video and my new sawmill. On the ground. Reason is that now I am sawing live edge slabs from over sized logs.
troy while im listening im gonna give my 2 cents for what its wourth ...righyt now the hf sawmill is 2400.oo and the woodland mills comparible sawmill is the hm122 for 2500.oo.....only 100.00 more ...woodlandmills has great customer service harbor freight has no customer service....the cariage for the woodlandmills is much better...but im still happy with my harbor freight....the clamp do suck for lockin the sawmill from raising up and down ,,,i dont even use mine any more...i just grab the handle an keep it from rotating while pushing....your spot on with the water delivery but on mine where the coper tubing goes threw the frame there is a bolt on the side of the post that you didnt video for us that tightens don onto the coper tubing to prevent it from moving around (atleast there is on mine) but still that tubing needs to be longer so it can be bent to point down to the blade so you can use a lower rate of water with out it over shooting the blade.....i suspect the blade your using to cut the cedar with that it has been sharpened afew times and has lost its tooth set or its the wrong hook for soft woods ...i use a 10 degree tooth'.....the sawdust build up on the wheels is easy to prevent with out the sawdust sweeps ...you can lightly wipe down the rails and wheels with automatic transmission fluid every other log or if you want to be enviromentally friendly yu can spray it with spam...its the pitch in the sawdust that makes it stick.....now to the log clamp....i do not tighten any of those adjustable screws ...i set it to the hight i wand and give the base a good wack ...the point that goes into the log could be a little sharper is my beef... happy sawing
I was hoping to hear from you. I am surprised at the prices now. Last I looked it was a bigger difference. But then again the HF has been going up in price. Years ago you could get it on sale for $1,700 sometimes. I cant find a screw on mine to tighten the water tube but that would help a lot. The blade is relatively new but could be getting dull by now. Thanks for all the tips.
If your running a commercial operation your not going to have one of those mills but every novice person should start out with those and any others would be a dream
As wet as some of these logs are from sitting all winter, probably not. I certainly turn it down a lot. I dont even use water on the slabs cause the blade is hardly into any wood on those.
The cedar issue is not related to A Harbor Freight sawmill. I have seen even Woodmizers bog down as the blade gulleys were filled with cedar bark. There is probably a blade that tolerates cedar bark better, but I am not sure what it is (yet). I have used Woidmizers, Norwoods, and even homemade mills and cedar is always a wild card. I just saw super slow until its a four sided can’t with cedar.
Interesting to ask if Harbor Freight did, on purpose, design its sawmill track rails with non-standard dimensions steel angle irons. While it DOES look like that, it may not be actually the case, since their mills are probably manufactured in China, they may simply have picked something that is standard and easily available in China, but NOT in America. I DON'T know for sure, but at least, that is a possible alternative explanation.
This started as a Harbor Freight sawmill which I bought when there was a shortage so it was about $3,500 at the time. Then I added a few thousand in the trailer, crane and track extensions.
As far as the rollers go with being clogged. Couldnt you just get some cheap wire brushes and mount them over the rollers so while your moving it, the brush keeps them clean?
Now, yes. Back when I bought this the prices were insane. These were going for $3,600 if I remember right. There was a shortage at that time. But you wont get a Woodland Mills for $2,400 out the door. No way. I have looked at them.
bigger moter will help keep wood strom bestring i sure it from the blade boging down goos at lest 13 hp or beteer 23 hp power moter and if they lost sap in the wood try some pine saw clean hole small bottle to thing it a gal of water and some god old dawn dish soap ever nother mills tell u to do that
Happy Birthday Melanie. I just found out. All Thumbs Up Every Time ! #90 Sorry I'm late but I took a road trip to a Hot Springs in Nevada. 600+ miles round trip.
IT APPEARS TO ME THAT IF YOU ARE AN COMPETENT MECHANIC WITH AN GOOD EXPERIMENTER ABILITIES THAT EVEN THESE CONS ARE EASILY OVERCOME! LOL , EVERYTHING I HAVE EVER OWNED, I HAVE DONE SOMETHING TO IT TO SUIT MY NEEDS!
the up and down part for the mill wair out becouse they just used junk metal not like it going to brake in a day but depending on how many log u do will depend on how many year it last and better to do it bye hand just becouse it more ackit so beter cut rite ware u need it
go buy a couple cheap wire brushes and attatch them to the top portion where the wheels go so as to self clean as it rolls -never deal with them again !
Hi, great vid, you wasn't sure why when cutting cedar your blade loads up, reason is, its a fiberus wood like cotton wood. You might slow your approach speed, taking in account the blade is sharp but changing the pitch the teeth angle will change the length of the saw dust. Experiment with different angles. 3RD GEN, Tualatin Valley Hardwood owner.
I've had one for 15 years hadn't missed a beat ! Changed 1 belt and 2 bearings and a water valve
I have a harbor freight mill and the first thing I done was to remove the blade guide blocks,I used the original bolts and bought some washers for spacers and bought some small bearings I think they were 22 mm in diameter and I run 2 on top of the blade and 2 on the bottom.The blade when under load rides on the bearing surfaces and it does indeed extend blade life along with smoother cuts.You can buy these bearings and washers for near nothing,but always have spare parts.
Cool. Good info. I sold mine recently but this is good for others to know.
I used a trigger switch upper valve. Had a old brass trigger on a weed sprayer. So I lengthen top hose to the handle the down to the volume valve down below, the trigger turns off and on quickly. I used a cable system on the wheels. I used sealed bearing like on the skateboards cost low enough. Water tank a racing fuel jug up side down work for me. Hudson sawmill have a nice locking dog system. My was used, also. Maintenance maintenance maintenance!!!
I have a H F sawmill and your drip tube for the blade has a set bolt on the side. Loosen the bolt , move it in or out and tighten the bolt and done!
you can put in a rubber grommet in for for the water tube on both sides that will make the tube in place
Would be nice to see log loading and your support setup in detail, good job.
Great video ! Have you ever used a green line laser module as an alignment tool ?
Great video. Couldnt you mount brushes that will clean the wheel as well as the track that will automatically clean as you roll?
Thanks. Yes that works well.
@@TheDoItYourselfWorld Awesome review. I learned a lot from your pros and cons were great because you explained why it was good or what you were frustrated with but could fix and idease about how.
regarding the steel cable to clean the wheel, the bolted steel cable could also wear the wheel and make accurate depth cuts more difficult. A brass brush might clean the wheel without wearing the wheel.
A very good video...thanks for posting 🇨🇦
I've owner the HF sawmill for a couple years now. Here's my running list of woulda-coulda-shoulda Cons:
1. The rail sections are not exactly the same profile. They had to be shimmed to prevent an uneven bump. To make sure you have a planar set of rails, you'll need a long straight edge. However when the rails are shimmed, this brings the bunks out of plane. Only solution is long solid rails.
2. The clamps are wonky. The bolt with the yoke on the end doing the clamping is weak. Weld on a couple of nuts and T-handles for certain clamping.
3. Two-post only. Only a pair of bolts at the base of each upright determine the position (perpendicularity) of the gantry. You can tighten the bolts/nuts to where the tubing deforms, but there's still nothing to keep the head from slipping. With the bolts loose, the gantry can tip 5-7 degree. The design also makes the gantry very flexible side-to-side. Cutting poplar, cedar and pine/spruce I didn't really have any issues. But on fresh red oak and maple (tougher) I get some waviness right after initial penetration. However I've only run Cook's blades so far. Going to try Woodmizer blades soon.
4. Both blade guides are fixed. Would be nice if the upstream guide was adjustable.
5. The screw driving the cable tensioner is standard thread. Should be an Acme thread. A standard thread will wear under the load of the saw head.
6. Dust exit cute clogs easily, especially when using water bottle.
7. Dust deposits heavily on the downstream-side rail and leading wheel, which can take the gantry out of plane if heavy enough.
8. Water valve is very flimsy & wonky low quality. Also should be 2 valves -- one for on/off and another set at your desired flow rate.
9. Water bottle is too small.
10. Clamp heads are pointed. A blunt head would not mark/crack the wood as much. Clamp handles are cranks. A slip T-handle would be better where the T would typically slide down out of the way.
11. There is something up with the interface between the adjustable gantry uprights and the saw head. The upper left end and lower right end of the interface has a stack of 4-5 washers to true up the mate.
12. No lift point or lift hooks. You will very likely take the saw head out of plane if you lift using the top crossbar.
13. Nuts and bolts are serrated. So anyplace you cinch up a fastener, the paint chips and is prone to rust. Should be washers, lock washers or nyloc nuts.
14. The provided manual is a joke. I use HM122/126 manuals for technical information.
15. No hex head or socket wrench hole on the tension handle for tensioning the blade. I drilled a hole in the t-handle and welded a 3/4" bolt.
Which one would you buy if doing it again?
Great video review. Thank you. What does Harbor Tool charge for their blades for this sawmill?
Thanks. Not sure. I get mine on Amazon.
Great video and info! Thank you for taking the time. I do have a question however. You mentioned if you were to get rid of this mill, you would get the Woodland Mill. I am seriously considering a mill, actually got a quote. Went to order it and they wouldn't honor the quote, it was another $2100.00 more. There is more to the story but suffice it to say instead of pulling the trigger, the shot wasn't right so I put the safety back on! I just read some comments so I see you have gotten a different mill. I will check out your latest video as you said.
Very helpful video. Happy Birthday to Melanie.
How long of logs can you mill on it?
Liked the video,,,,just wondering,,,did u have an trouble changing the belt,,,,I know I did,,,the replacement belt u get isn't the right size,,,,
How hard would it be to weld scrapers for the wheels and track. Instead of plane the 4x4 for extension why didn't you just make 2 inch wide notch to drop the steel down
Nice I've got one need to get it set up
Keeping the mill up off the ground is how we set up ours as well. My brother and I decided that we could easily get any log it can cut up to the deck rather than having to bend over for every board coming off the mill.
That was true with this mill and my thoughts too. But check my newest video and my new sawmill. On the ground. Reason is that now I am sawing live edge slabs from over sized logs.
Good job on the review. Very helpful.
Thanks
Great review. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
aw so cool to learn about the sawmill.
Happy Birthday to Melanie !!
On the rollers , put guards over the wheels with a mounted scrapers will help a lot to reduce buildup !!!!
Just walking home from work, and catching up on the video
Cool
I just ordered a Woodland mill HM126 today.
i have a harbor freight sawmill that i am happy with but woodland mills has great customer suport and a heavier cariage ...happy sawing
Awesome!!!
Very well explain with open mind❤❤ do you have a video of the mill in operation?
Around that time I was making some videos with it, yes.
What is the largest login in diameter will it cut
This one would cut 21 inches I think. I have a Woodland Mills HM122 now and sold the HF.
Happy birthday, Melanie 🎉🎁🎉
Quality blades are extremely important
Nice review thanks
troy while im listening im gonna give my 2 cents for what its wourth ...righyt now the hf sawmill is 2400.oo and the woodland mills comparible sawmill is the hm122 for 2500.oo.....only 100.00 more ...woodlandmills has great customer service harbor freight has no customer service....the cariage for the woodlandmills is much better...but im still happy with my harbor freight....the clamp do suck for lockin the sawmill from raising up and down ,,,i dont even use mine any more...i just grab the handle an keep it from rotating while pushing....your spot on with the water delivery but on mine where the coper tubing goes threw the frame there is a bolt on the side of the post that you didnt video for us that tightens don onto the coper tubing to prevent it from moving around (atleast there is on mine) but still that tubing needs to be longer so it can be bent to point down to the blade so you can use a lower rate of water with out it over shooting the blade.....i suspect the blade your using to cut the cedar with that it has been sharpened afew times and has lost its tooth set or its the wrong hook for soft woods ...i use a 10 degree tooth'.....the sawdust build up on the wheels is easy to prevent with out the sawdust sweeps ...you can lightly wipe down the rails and wheels with automatic transmission fluid every other log or if you want to be enviromentally friendly yu can spray it with spam...its the pitch in the sawdust that makes it stick.....now to the log clamp....i do not tighten any of those adjustable screws ...i set it to the hight i wand and give the base a good wack ...the point that goes into the log could be a little sharper is my beef... happy sawing
I was hoping to hear from you. I am surprised at the prices now. Last I looked it was a bigger difference. But then again the HF has been going up in price. Years ago you could get it on sale for $1,700 sometimes. I cant find a screw on mine to tighten the water tube but that would help a lot. The blade is relatively new but could be getting dull by now. Thanks for all the tips.
You can't use a 20% off or 25% off coupon on a sawmill at Woodland mills. HF only offers this coupon a couple times a year, however.
Lots of good info
Thank you
thanks for info
Happy to help.
If your running a commercial operation your not going to have one of those mills but every novice person should start out with those and any others would be a dream
I'm really liking that saw. When cutting wet logs do you really need the additional water? I wouldn't think so.
As wet as some of these logs are from sitting all winter, probably not. I certainly turn it down a lot. I dont even use water on the slabs cause the blade is hardly into any wood on those.
The cedar issue is not related to A Harbor Freight sawmill. I have seen even Woodmizers bog down as the blade gulleys were filled with cedar bark. There is probably a blade that tolerates cedar bark better, but I am not sure what it is (yet). I have used Woidmizers, Norwoods, and even homemade mills and cedar is always a wild card. I just saw super slow until its a four sided can’t with cedar.
troy if you want we can do a zoom call and go over the sawmill stuff that way I could show you afew things easier
..up to you
I have skype. You can email me and keep personal things off YT troy.thedoityourselfworld@gmail.com
Thanks.
Melanie's birthday now tho so I wont be back to the computer tonight.
Ok when I get in the house I will email you...and yes it WON'T be recorded and no personal details
Grizz270 - That is a kind, generous and helpful offer on your part.
Install a small stiff wire brush over every roller so it cleans while you are moving the saw head.
Just a thought.
That would work too
I own the hm122 woodland mills it Is a beautiful piece of equipment I'm from Canada
Yes, it is!
What are the pros and cons for your mill?
@@cautious1343 for the price woodland mills is probably the best mill it is all steel
Are the boys metric, if so then the steel is probably a metrical size Sewell.
Just walking home from work catching up on the video
By the time you spend the cost and time to upgrade wouldn't it be better to get a better mill.
No. As you buy better and better the cost for each piece goes up as well.
@@TheDoItYourselfWorld agreed. But then so does the quality , performance , precision and durability ...hopefully
For sure. Hopefully. lol
It does cut some nice slabs...thanks for the pros & cons... Happy Birthday to Melanie 🥳🥳
Happy you liked it and thanks. I passed on the birthday wishes to her.
Interesting to ask if Harbor Freight did, on purpose, design its sawmill track rails with non-standard dimensions steel angle irons. While it DOES look like that, it may not be actually the case, since their mills are probably manufactured in China, they may simply have picked something that is standard and easily available in China, but NOT in America. I DON'T know for sure, but at least, that is a possible alternative explanation.
About what price was your saw mill? Did you ever figure out what the fibers were from the cedar cut?
This started as a Harbor Freight sawmill which I bought when there was a shortage so it was about $3,500 at the time. Then I added a few thousand in the trailer, crane and track extensions.
Happy birthday Melanie!!! We want to see more of you...
I agree.
As far as the rollers go with being clogged. Couldnt you just get some cheap wire brushes and mount them over the rollers so while your moving it, the brush keeps them clean?
Yes that would work
thanks
I checked harbor freight sawmill 2400
Woodland 2400
Now, yes. Back when I bought this the prices were insane. These were going for $3,600 if I remember right. There was a shortage at that time.
But you wont get a Woodland Mills for $2,400 out the door. No way. I have looked at them.
Not cutting dull blade tearing The wood out
Good!
Just add a zip ties to your water feed tube one on each side of the nozzle
I can try that. Thanks.
Good
Thanks
Length ?
20 ft
Bought my rangeroad rr5026a today 3300 dollars 450 dollars for extra track 15 hp motor
Nice!!!
bigger moter will help keep wood strom bestring i sure it from the blade boging down goos at lest 13 hp or beteer 23 hp power moter and if they lost sap in the wood try some pine saw clean hole small bottle to thing it a gal of water and some god old dawn dish soap ever nother mills tell u to do that
pinesol is a nightmare for sawmills....who ever come up with that idea never ran a sawmill
Happy Birthday Melanie. I just found out.
All Thumbs Up Every Time ! #90
Sorry I'm late but I took a road trip to a Hot Springs in Nevada. 600+ miles round trip.
Thank you. I will pass it on to her. Long trip. "Hot" springs. lol. I have a winter coat on still. Crazy weather this year.
happy birth mel
IT APPEARS TO ME THAT IF YOU ARE AN COMPETENT MECHANIC WITH AN GOOD EXPERIMENTER ABILITIES THAT EVEN THESE CONS ARE EASILY OVERCOME!
LOL , EVERYTHING I HAVE EVER OWNED, I HAVE DONE SOMETHING TO IT TO SUIT MY NEEDS!
and cant wait to get that saw dust flying
Why don't you mill up enough wood to in close it around the saw mill , or at least 3 walls , door on one end , 👍👍👍👍 nice
I would love to but I am not allowed to. I was told that I have the limit on sheds now.
the up and down part for the mill wair out becouse they just used junk metal not like it going to brake in a day but depending on how many log u do will depend on how many year it last and better to do it bye hand just becouse it more ackit so beter cut rite ware u need it
can all way up grd and mod nice dog to the mill i all look at down work me mod dam thing till it dose
I know this is a couple years later but the woodland mills is actually cheaper than harbor freight and alot better built unit
go buy a couple cheap wire brushes and attatch them to the top portion where the wheels go so as to self clean as it rolls -never deal with them again !
Yes that is the plan
As for the dog i am going to order a cam dog from wood land
Cool, long as it fits.
Troy, we're old men now you have a good life ,you don't have to try so hard
I am not sure what you mean about trying to hard. I love working and love what I do.
cut a plastic bottle and place it over the carage wheels to keep shit out.
You forgot to mention, it doesn't come with a rolling frame, in fact, they don't even sell a rolling frame with a tow bar for it
Yes very true
Take the outside, bark off before you cut it
Quit using water or you blade when you are cutting Seder
Huh??
Resale is bad bad
Not around here. Any sawmill up for sale gets grabbed up fast. I sold 5 or 6 different mills thru the years myself.
Not trying to be a smart alleck or anything just curious
That rooster is annoying. I have a neighbor who killed his for crowing soon much.
Talks to much
i have sent you an email let me know when your ready
I cant find anything. Please double check my email address troy.thedoityourselfworld@gmail.com thanks
Hi, great vid, you wasn't sure why when cutting cedar your blade loads up, reason is, its a fiberus wood like cotton wood. You might slow your approach speed, taking in account the blade is sharp but changing the pitch the teeth angle will change the length of the saw dust. Experiment with different angles. 3RD GEN, Tualatin Valley Hardwood owner.