I’ve watched pretty much every video available and yours is the design I’m gonna copy. It’s the perfect combination of form and function without any unnecessary, over complicated features. Thanks a million for sharing my friend!
I love woodworking from my soul I have spent countless hours going over and over videos of home made bandsaw mills for the past 5 years and this year I came across yours I have spent the last month getting all of the steel today I purchased the 18hp Duromax engine tomorrow I will purchace the cooks blade guides,the 18.75 steel sheaves, 10-1/4 &3" drive pulleys. What i"m trying to say is because of your video I believed I can build my own sawmill from watching your video so Thank you for putting this video out you have made my dream become reality.
I've watched a lot of different videos trying to figure out how to make my own sawmill. Started in a somewhat different direction until I saw this video. Spent a couple hours trying to figure out how to incorporate your ideas without having to start over. Your design and your video to explain everything is better than anything else I've seen. Thank you for putting this out there, I'm alot more confident I'm going to get a good build by using your design, especially with how well you explained everything. You are da man, thanks
Josh, I have watched many many videos of folks showing and talking about their homemade mills! I have to say that this one is the best one ! Nice, normal, simple and good info and camera work! Good job kiddo! I know that your proud of your mill! I am proud for you! Looks real good!
Great job sir finally someone actually explained and showed how to build a mill looks very professional awesome build thank you I'm gonna try n build one
That's the purpose. Thanks. I didnt know if I could or not, so I went to Google and UA-cam. The reason for making this video is for every 100 cutting videos out there, there was still zero that dug deep into the fabrication, so I made my own... I learned a lot and learned even more after this video, but all in all, I'm glad I did it.
Great Job. You made it logically very simple.I watched your machine video a no of times and intend to follow your steps in my fabrication. God bless you.
Thanks for swift reply & advice.What should be the min size of axels? Yeah. You did mention in the video that your idle axle broke down for which you added another bearing bracket in the centre.
Nice job, I’ve been planning on building one of these for about 5 years now, I’m just now putting together the parts I’ll need for the build, so hopefully this winter I’ll get it done.
Blake S Yes. The axles for the band wheels. In this case, they are trailer tires. The blade tension is more than the axles can handle. I've snapped them a few times and had to re-weld them. Just go with like 1 3/8" or so.
Blake S Actual band wheels would be the very best option but they cost quite a bit. Rubber pneumatic wheels are the cheapest option, but not as rigid as you would want with mass wood production. The rubber wheels are bsically for hobby cutting, etc. As for using sheeves, I have never tried or have any advice on them.
I like your hoist , I did a similar hoist for a 30 ft wide insulated window cover for my greenhouse window. If you continue having trouble with axel breakage you may want to consider putting a support on the other end of the axles. I have not had any problems sawing hardwood logs up to 3 ft diameter on my homemade mill . Nice work!
Thanks. I ended up rebuilding this mill since the video and yes, upgraded the axles to 1.5" and set bearings closer to steel wheels on the new build. After getting her running good and cutting good, I sold it. Haha
Thank you. I would recommend up sizing a few of my items. Number 1, larger diameter axles (minimum 1.5" axles), number 2, a better way to lift lower the saw, number 3, bandwheels instead of pneumatic wheels, number 4, use centrifugal clutch with "B" type belt to drive... Good luck man
That's a very innovative design and I respect your knowledge to create your own design. I was a sawfiler 33 years and have no idea how to design what you have done. That said I would encourage you to design a guard that will cover as much of the bands as possible but not interfere with cut or travel. A broken band could be very hazardous. It is an awesome design , Id love have something as I enjoy woodcrafting as a hobby. Hardwood and cedar I like to use is limited and very $$$". I often have access to logs or dead trees and that would be an option for me. Thanks
Just finished watching "cutting big yellow pine." I've started collecting pieces for my build. Too cool your also a musician. Drummer in a past life myself. Some on UA-cam.
Hi Josh I eventually got to build my sawmill. I only have one problem and hope you can help. When I start cutting the wood the blade starts cutting downwards. I tried everything I could think of but it keeps cutting downwards. Pls give me some advice. Greetings Freddie Botswana Africa
Very well built and Engineered Mill ! I feel that many Machines like this are best when they are kept as Simple and less Complicated as possible which is what i really like about your build you also did a great job on Fabrication and savaging other parts for the build
This is the best example of a homemade bandsaw mill I've seen . The one change I believe would improve it , is a screw to adjust height ; the come-along has to be difficult .
Brilliant job on the build. One suggestion: if you use wooden pegs for the vertical supports, you avoid any chance of damaging your blades on them. Also if necessary they can be left higher, and you simply run through them
No lubrication/coolant for you blade? Set up a drip line with lightly soapy water. Helps keep down pitch and sap buildup on your blades, keeps them cleaner and cooler. Cooler blades wont stretch/expand as much during use, helps keep the blades sharper and longer between sharpening or replacement. A simple setup with a water dispenser jug equipped with a spigot, secured above the top bar of the mill would work, and run some tubing down, secure it where it can drip on the blade just where it passes into the wood.
Fantastic job! Best video on UA-cam having to do with the building of a sawmill(I honestly feel like I've watched them all). Good job staying in character for the trip! I must admit, I laughed 😅!! We all do things like that so it's cool that you didn't edit it out. Plus it reminds us that regular people can have a UA-cam channel. I'm definitely a subscriber now and look forward to seeing other videos. Thanks for the content!
Not sure if it's possible but I would love it more if you could provide a step by step guide on how you built that one. I'm from the Philippines and no one has created that one here yet. Thanks
That's a good looking saw.if its flat ,level it will cut straight ,as long as you have enough tension on your blade and watch you push speed it won't dive on you.practice makes perfect, good luck
You did a nice job on your fabrication. You will find that your sawmill will improve, and you'll stop having problems with your axle, when you get rid of the tires, and replace them with actual cast iron bandsaw wheels. Very hard to tension the blade properly with aired tires. Cut quality will improve tremendously, too. Been there, done that.
Jeff Heath The Vintage Workshop Thanks Jeff. I have debated the wheels, but the cast wheels are so expensive. Eventually, I hope to change these out tho with some actual bandsaw wheels.
I know the cast wheels are expensive, but keep in mind that so is a bunch of messed up lumber. Just trying to help you avoid mistakes that so many have made before you. Rubber tires are used in all the inexpensive-to-build sawmill plans, so they are very appealing. Problem is, you can't tension the blade properly, so you end up cranking on it to tighten it more, and the axles break. It's a nasty loop of bad outcomes. Look for an old, vintage bandsaw that is beyond repair, but with good wheels. Lots of 100 year old 27" to 30" bandsaws that the wheels are perfect for. I've got a 27" Chicago Machinery Exchange bandsaw that's 110 years old, and the wheels are cast iron, sturdy as hell, and are 2" wide. PERFECT. Paid $100 for the entire machine. Good luck.
Jeff Heath The Vintage Workshop I'm hoping (and looking) to stumble onto an old sawmill like that with good parts or someone looking to upgrade and selling a working mill within a hobbiest budget. I've considered casting my own also, but that's a whole nother project. lol
You prolly spent more on those tires and hubs than a set of 19" band wheels would of ran you. I got my band wheels and collars , pillow blocks, 1 1/2" shafts all for under 300 bucks shipped from surplus center. I think my band wheels where $48,00 each with pulley belt and collar.
I’m considering starting with an old shop bandsaw such as a 26” to 36” Crescent or something similar as a donor to my mill. There is a school of thought that the larger the wheel, the less stress on the blade over time. You also get the advantage of larger material capacity. One tradeoff is the blades will be more expensive. Being able to use the wheels, axles, bearings, drive pulley, frame components and hopefully some other parts would help defray some of the cost of an initial build. Hopefully.....
Nice job showing telling, nice build I need to build me one like that and cut me some wood. Good job thanks for showing have a good one see ya next time see ya by.
This is the nicest homemade mill I've seen. I'm wanting to make my own and I'm going to use your video to help me design it. Very nice work! Thanks for sharing
Wow. Thanks. I rebuilt this after this video with larger axles, actual band wheels, and a centrifugal clutch drive pulley. Otherwise, it did a great job as you see it
@@joshsbomber I have 19" blade wheels coming and I'm going to make mine towable using 8" channel iron and boat axel. I like the idea of centrifugal clutch. I already have a small diesel engine and 18 gallon aluminum fuel tank. I just ordered the cooks blade guides and 4" v groove casters. I found a crank lift at my local scrapyard that should work great for raising and lowering my bandsaw platform. I'm planning on cutting my own lumber to build a small house on my 12 acres. I just wanted to thank you for your video and the great work you did.
Great job, this mill looks factory made and the presentation is superb, keep up the good work. Maybe you will do a demonstration for us someday, thanks.
I really appreciate the compliment. The rebuild was beautiful but I sold it before making a video. Btw, there is a couple videos of me cutting some wood on my channel. Thanks again
I see a couple additions to your machine. One for safety and that is a blade guard/retainer that will contain the blade if it breaks. The second one is some bristle brushes attached to the front and rear of the guide wheels that carries the motor blade assembly. That would keep your track clear of cuttings when attempting to move the cutting assembly forward or backward. Other than those items it looks really thought out and built. Wish I had your skills.
Appreciate the comments. I did build a guard at one point and ditched it when fine tuning, just never put it back on. I also ended up rebuilding the entire machine, making it taller and more solid. It was just about perfect when I sold it. Lol
Thanks a lot, you have answered my questions on the motor you used as I planned on using that or a 7.5 horsepower electric motor. I too liked the cooks guides. Inexpensive and functional. You have some great ideas and implemented them well. Thank you Sir.
Thank you. If you haven't started the build already, strongly consider actual band wheels or pulleys from Surplus Center. I wish I had just done that from the start. Also make everything overbuilt and adjustable.
If you would make a detailed set of plans I know folks would be more than happy to purchase them from you! I know that I would! Fantastic looking mill!!!!!
I liked and subscribed because I am sure that you have made some more videos. Most people are so interested in talking but they don't really say anything. I can tell that you made it yourself except for guides and that makes sense. I think it is simple and user friendly. I like the walkway down the sides. Man should be proud of what he does and you never cut corners, just made affordable.These mills cost twenty plus thousand and don't do any different. I think I would add the second log dog to keep the log from moving while going down the cut and a ruler so that you can tell what your cut is going to be. For some reason I like this mill a lot. I have saw them made with bike tires and the blade kerf doesn't get affected by the tire so does that one affect the blade kurf or not? How much air pressure in the tires?Thats about it except to see it working. I wish I owned it!
Thank you for the positive comments. I never noticed the kerf being affected or the pitch angle of the teeth. I used many different air levels on the tires (experimental) and any reasonable amount of air seems like it would work fine. Eventually, I did go back and make many parts bigger and stronger and ended up selling that mill to another DIYer that I know a few towns over. I have a video or two of it cutting some wood also. Thanks again for the great feedback.
Nice. Personally I would have done something other than lumber but it's awful simple but adequate, I like this more than many of the others I have watched which are either low quality or more complicated than I care for
Thanks, I wasn't really sure what to cut with it once it was built. Lol I later went to cast band wheels and larger axle size, as well as centrifugal clutch pulley. All positive improvements. Eventually sold the mill and have not built another. With that said, I might build another someday.
Hey Josh, just getting back to finishing up my mill based on your design. First, I have to say I admire you for the support you give your followers with quick replies. Basically the only main difference I have made is using sheaves for the blade wheels instead of tires. You gave some advice in the past about using cooks guides which I have purchased. I am just ordering the 18hp Duramax and am trying to figure out the belt tensioner from the video images. I do not need plans but some guidance and/or maybe a sketch of your assembly. I can see some of it but cannot determine where the pivot is. Tried to view other mills and tensioner designs but none give enough information. You may have answered this within the comments but I do not know how to search within the content. I hate having to ask but any help would be appreciated.
It has been a while for me, but I can try to answer. Of the whole mill, the tension/alignment was the hardest to create and make functional. The reason is the enormous amount of tension on the blade. After rebuilding this mill, I scrapped the tension/alignment of this build and went with a while different design from scratch. Anyways, this video has the tension/alignment design with the plate that slides and pivots. There is no "actual" pivot point. The plate slides within the rails along the sides and is curved on each end to allow pivot. The rest was created using 5/8" threaded rod and 1/4" handles like a vise design. I used coupling nuts so the threaded rod would have more bite. My pillow block bearings where mounted to this plate also. To tension the blade, you would turn both threaded rods to draw the plate away from the opposite axle. Once tight, you could tighten front or back threaded rod to adjust the alignment. The plate free floats within the rails. Hope this explains the process of what needs to happen. Now why did I scrap this design? A few reasons. 1. The threaded rod and nuts showed fatigue that would have led to failure in a short period of time. 2. The plate was free floating which allows for movement that could not be fine-tuned. 3. Because the plate could bind within the rails and cause false tension pressure making you think it was the blade tension when in reality it was bound up. The new design was using 3/4" threaded rod and square tubing the length of the blade. I welded handles to each end of the rod that stuck out past the band wheels on each side. This was much better for tension and had no points of binding except on the threads themselves. For the alignment, I created an actual axle for two plates to pivot on. One plate welded to the frame, the other was able to pivot. I had a bolt that pushed the plate one way and one that pushed the plate the other. Once both were tightened, the alignment wasn't moving. Now, with blade expansion over usage, there was still a need for fine tuning, but a much better design. I also went to band wheels with the final rebuild. I sure hope this helps. I don't have pictures or drawings to assist my explanations either. I never ever thought I'd be seen as a place to gain knowledge about sawmills. I'm 100% a DIYer and tinker with junk randomly. Lol .. As for Cooks, they are the place to gain useful knowledge.
@@joshsbomber Thanks again for such a quick response. I know your time is valuable. Actually I was asking about the drive belt tensioner but am glad you replied as about blade tension. WOW. I was just getting ready to cut the slide plate for the blade tensioner. I will try to look at how others are doing their blade tension for some ideas. I can usually figure these things out but this is a total different venture for me. By the way, I am practically a neighbor as I live in Columbia, SC and have lots of white pine available. I am only 68 so hope to get lots of use out of it when it is complete.
Lol. Maybe I should read a little better. Anyways, I went to a centrifugal clutch on the motor and would do it 100 times again. I used the motor mount to tighten the belt on that. I have family allover around Conway, Aynor, Sumter area...
Thanks Josh and cool about having family here. We go through Aynor and Conway often on the way to the family beach house in Garden City and occasionally go through Sumter. Also will be headed down the Space Coast in May while my son is here from Washington State to go to the space center. Any particular centrifugal clutch you can recommend. I like the simplicity of having that as opposed to a lever. I did order the engine from Lowe's today cause I get a military discount.
Very much like what I decided to build. Mostly because of the scrap I will be building with. My blade guides and first band blade should show up next couple days. I have most everything I need otherwise. Using 19 to 20 inch trailer tires from Walmart off old trailer for band wheels. To keep weight down, will be using parts from old exercise equipment, most of my steel is much to heavy. Will post videos of project at some point soon.
nice build. if you want blade guards, get an old fridge and you get long bent corners with enamel painted metal. washer and dryer doors... but it looks like you are making it all new.
I have to agree with some of you're viewers. I too have watched other videos of sawmill builds. I have to say, you do have one of the best built home made mills that I have seen. Great job. I do have a couple questions, because I'm going to either building a sawmill or buying. I wouod prefer to build one as well as youres. So my questions are. 1. Where does a guy look for some of the parts that are needed to build a sawmill. Like the blade guides, the large metal wheels? Things of that sort. 2. Are you going to add a water drip to cool the blade? The metal wheels I asking about are the same that some mills use for the blades.
Thanks. You can get steel from local welding shop. The band wheels can be obtained on Ebay, but I'd say Surplus Center would be best. The blade guides, I bought the assembly from Cooks. They are awesome. You can get a large amount of items at Surplus Center (online). As for the drip line, I found it created more mess than it was worth for me. My saw cut better when it was dry. My next mill will have an "H" shape frame around the band wheels to relieve strain on the bearings. I'd also use a minimum 1.5" axle and heavier bolts and all... I'd also use an easier lift and lower idea... the winch got old... Maybe motorized. Hope this helps
Michael Clark Thanks. The dawg system was from someone else's video on youtube, but I don't remember who to give credit to. It works great. The height system was a bit of a struggle at first until I got it all functional. It works great.
Excellent build and great explanation. I would like to suggest, instead of the axle / pillow block setup to the blade wheels, a rear hub assembly for a 2001 era caravan or vw jetta. It’s easy bolt on with brake capability if needed. Just a thought, Thank you for sharing.
Awesome video and awesome sawmill man. Thank you very much for taking the time to do this. Definitely has pushed me towards building s mill vs buying one.
nice build. I have seen a few that used a boat winch type of setup with the cables connected to the end of the bed. than you just hand crank it to move it. much easier than pushing.
One of the most basic simple designs I have seen as others stated. Considering inverting my main steel T tracks to hold on to the rolling chassis one I hope to build. Have most of the parts to do a 20 ft twin axle steel C channel frame setup like yours or a 24ft Cox I beam aluminum boat trailer. It is already 5/4 wood decked over with a boxed steel border rail. It would have room for a knuckle boom up front.
thanks for the share. on your boat winch. switch over to a winch " brake" type they are designed for a vertical and horizontal. I would say a small 800-pound rated one would do you fine. ( "Dayton" on eBay) and cheap. the idea behind them is they will not freewheel down when you lower the saw head. A regular boat winch will just drop if the handle slips out of your hand.I have one on my saw, they do need a minimum of 50 pounds of down weight to make the brake perform, Just a little share for all to read.
Hemi Power Agree... I thought I broke my hand one day when it slipped and hit me... Took a few days to get my hand to feel normal again. I would suggest the winch, but I don't have a battery on mine, so I kept the hand winch. Thanks for the added advice
josh I was just on the comp and got your return. These brake winches are manual, not electrical! www.ebay.com/itm/DAYTON-12U370-Hand-Winch-Spur-Gear-w-Brake-800-lb/331342022421?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Are well made this the one I chose rated as I said 800 pound lift. check it out let me know what you think
Hemi Power Yeah, looks good. I like the removable handle too. That helps when covering it up for the day. I am currently rebuilding this mill, so there might be some changes in that department eventually.
Hey dunno if your still looking but anothet type to look at is the worm gear setup. Just used a screw to drive the gear on the drum. Super slick, a buddies gone one on his mill. Will never runaway from you. Just my two cents
Chad Marusak Thanks. My biggest lesson is tension. I lack blade tension due to my axles being 1" diameter. If they were larger, I could torque down tighter and have straighter cuts. This is in theory anyways.
I’ve watched pretty much every video available and yours is the design I’m gonna copy. It’s the perfect combination of form and function without any unnecessary, over complicated features.
Thanks a million for sharing my friend!
I have probably looked at 50 UA-cam videos of Home made saw mills, without a doubt yours is my favourite.
Simple, easy and does the job.
Great video
Thank you. My intention was to do better than I had seen. Glad to hear it helps
I love woodworking from my soul I have spent countless hours going over and over videos of home made bandsaw mills for the past 5 years and this year I came across yours I have spent the last month getting all of the steel today I purchased the 18hp Duromax engine tomorrow I will purchace the cooks blade guides,the 18.75 steel sheaves, 10-1/4 &3" drive pulleys. What i"m trying to say is because of your video I believed I can build my own sawmill from watching your video so Thank you for putting this video out you have made my dream become reality.
That is truly rewarding to hear. I wish you the best with your mill. Thank you for the heartfelt comment.
I've watched a lot of different videos trying to figure out how to make my own sawmill. Started in a somewhat different direction until I saw this video. Spent a couple hours trying to figure out how to incorporate your ideas without having to start over. Your design and your video to explain everything is better than anything else I've seen. Thank you for putting this out there, I'm alot more confident I'm going to get a good build by using your design, especially with how well you explained everything. You are da man, thanks
Thanks so much. Just keep in mind everything needs to be very rigid, but adjustable. With that mindset, you will have a fine mill.
Josh, I have watched many many videos of folks showing and talking about their homemade mills! I have to say that this one is the best one ! Nice, normal, simple and good info and camera work! Good job kiddo! I know that your proud of your mill! I am proud for you! Looks real good!
Mikediddylilley
Thanks a lot. I hope it helps.
And yes it was a great simple presentation and one of the best l have seen
@@joshsbomber awesome video this gives me the confidence to try my own mill great video
Great job sir finally someone actually explained and showed how to build a mill looks very professional awesome build thank you I'm gonna try n build one
Thank you
I never ever thought I could make something like this with my powerarc but having seen what you have created I feel I can.
That's the purpose. Thanks. I didnt know if I could or not, so I went to Google and UA-cam. The reason for making this video is for every 100 cutting videos out there, there was still zero that dug deep into the fabrication, so I made my own... I learned a lot and learned even more after this video, but all in all, I'm glad I did it.
I really like the clean and simple design of this mill! Thank you for the walk-around!
Great Job. You made it logically very simple.I watched your machine video a no of times and intend to follow your steps in my fabrication. God bless you.
Thank you! God bless. My best advice when you start is to build with larger diameter axles.
Thanks for swift reply & advice.What should be the min size of axels? Yeah. You did mention in the video that your idle axle broke down for which you added another bearing bracket in the centre.
What a great design!! Simple, robust and very functional. Thanks for sharing mate. Really appreciate it.
000BigKev
thank you
Mnapatikana wapi?
Nice job, I’ve been planning on building one of these for about 5 years now, I’m just now putting together the parts I’ll need for the build, so hopefully this winter I’ll get it done.
did you get it done?
Very simple and clean design. One of the best home built sawmills I have seen.
Thanks.
Probably the best looking and most simplistic home made sawmill. I'm using your plan to make my own!! Thanks man!!!
Blake S
Thank you. Try to find bigger axles would be my only advice.
Josh Davis
Are you talking about your trailer tires?
Blake S
Yes. The axles for the band wheels. In this case, they are trailer tires. The blade tension is more than the axles can handle. I've snapped them a few times and had to re-weld them. Just go with like 1 3/8" or so.
Josh Davis
Oh man! Is there any benefit to using tires vs actual Sheaves?
Blake S
Actual band wheels would be the very best option but they cost quite a bit. Rubber pneumatic wheels are the cheapest option, but not as rigid as you would want with mass wood production. The rubber wheels are bsically for hobby cutting, etc. As for using sheeves, I have never tried or have any advice on them.
Ни понял ни одного слова но глядя на это творение его нельзя не воссоздать .Прекрасная работа .Спасибо!!!
I think that was an awesome build , simple functional . Sounds like you have the same problem I do talking to a camera that don't talk back lol .
I do. Lol I am not a front man by any means
I like your hoist , I did a similar hoist for a 30 ft wide insulated window cover for my greenhouse window.
If you continue having trouble with axel breakage you may want to consider putting a support on the other end of the axles.
I have not had any problems sawing hardwood logs up to 3 ft diameter on my homemade mill .
Nice work!
Thanks. I ended up rebuilding this mill since the video and yes, upgraded the axles to 1.5" and set bearings closer to steel wheels on the new build. After getting her running good and cutting good, I sold it. Haha
your design is one if not the best one I've seen. thank you for sharing. I'm going to try to build my own. good luck and keep up the good work sir
Thank you. I would recommend up sizing a few of my items. Number 1, larger diameter axles (minimum 1.5" axles), number 2, a better way to lift lower the saw, number 3, bandwheels instead of pneumatic wheels, number 4, use centrifugal clutch with "B" type belt to drive... Good luck man
@@joshsbomber hec yeah man, I appreciate that greatly! Started buying my metal, going with a 16 foot deck just to be on the safe side
That's a very innovative design and I respect your knowledge to create your own design. I was a sawfiler 33 years and have no idea how to design what you have done. That said I would encourage you to design a guard that will cover as much of the bands as possible but not interfere with cut or travel. A broken band could be very hazardous. It is an awesome design , Id love have something as I enjoy woodcrafting as a hobby. Hardwood and cedar I like to use is limited and very $$$".
I often have access to logs or dead trees and that would be an option for me.
Thanks
I appreciate all the kind words. I ended up selling this to another enthusiasts and I suggested he build guards also. Thanks for the input.
@@joshsbomber There ya go.
I think you did a great job and thank you for explaining some things I never understood keep up the good work and know we're behind you
Thank you. Glad it was helpful
I really enjoyed your video. Simple and functional. Your adjustments are genius. Your mill is beautiful.
Thank you
@@joshsbomber how wide is it and what blade/band length/size. Lol I'm following your build pattern as best I can.
The blade i used is 158" long x 1.25" ... I believe the saw head was 50" wide.
Thank you.
Just finished watching "cutting big yellow pine." I've started collecting pieces for my build. Too cool your also a musician. Drummer in a past life myself. Some on UA-cam.
Thank you very much Josh, I really like the 4 post mill, I will start building my mill next week.
Looking forward to your next video
Hi Josh I eventually got to build my sawmill. I only have one problem and hope you can help. When I start cutting the wood the blade starts cutting downwards. I tried everything I could think of but it keeps cutting downwards. Pls give me some advice.
Greetings
Freddie
Botswana Africa
Very well built and Engineered Mill ! I feel that many Machines like this are best when they are kept as Simple and less Complicated as possible which is what i really like about your build you also did a great job on Fabrication and savaging other parts for the build
Appreciate all the compliments. I try my best at whatever I do.
Thanks for going to the trouble of making this video, very helpful, and a great job.
Chris Boyton
Thank you. So many videos and so little information, so I tried to cover anything that came to mind. Glad it's been helpful.
Not many Men could build this, Nice Job Sir !! Appreciate Your time on this , Thanks for Showing it .
Oh yeah, that's one of the nicer homemades I've yet to see on UA-cam, Nice job!
OceanBlueLady/ Jacki
Thank you.
Like the way everything is adjustable and repairable GREAT JOB looks like it will serve you for many years John in Milo Maine
Thank you
Been looking a lot diy band saw mill videos and yours is one of the best!! Thanks for sharing
Greg Jordan
I really appreciate that and hope the video helps others. The sawmill world is a community of people willing to help, I've learned.
This is the best example of a homemade bandsaw mill I've seen . The one change I believe would improve it , is a screw to adjust height ; the come-along has to be difficult .
Hey, I really appreciate the kind words. I agree. A different height adjustment routine would be looked into on my next build.
Pretty damn inventive, i’d be proud to have it at my shop
Thank you
Brilliant job on the build. One suggestion: if you use wooden pegs for the vertical supports, you avoid any chance of damaging your blades on them. Also if necessary they can be left higher, and you simply run through them
Thanks. Appreciate the advise
No lubrication/coolant for you blade? Set up a drip line with lightly soapy water. Helps keep down pitch and sap buildup on your blades, keeps them cleaner and cooler. Cooler blades wont stretch/expand as much during use, helps keep the blades sharper and longer between sharpening or replacement.
A simple setup with a water dispenser jug equipped with a spigot, secured above the top bar of the mill would work, and run some tubing down, secure it where it can drip on the blade just where it passes into the wood.
Awesome video! I've been considering building my own bandsaw mill, and now having seen you explain it im confident I can do no such thing.
Excellent. Hope you succeed.
John here been wanting one of these just to old now but glad for you please do one thing double check for a or 2 kill switches just in case.
I actually rebuilt this mill and sold it to a guy. My next one WILL have blade guards and an easy to get to kill switch. Thanks
Fantastic job! Best video on UA-cam having to do with the building of a sawmill(I honestly feel like I've watched them all). Good job staying in character for the trip! I must admit, I laughed 😅!! We all do things like that so it's cool that you didn't edit it out. Plus it reminds us that regular people can have a UA-cam channel. I'm definitely a subscriber now and look forward to seeing other videos. Thanks for the content!
Haha. The trip, yes good times. Thanks for the comment. Glad I could help
Nice Job! Thank you for the tour!
very nicely done, Simple and clean design. best I have seen. I will be starting my build this week.
Thank you
Just like Grady I would love some plans.
looks very well done, with out being overly complicated.
Thanks. Thats my life goals. Lol well done, not complicated
Nice clean build my friend!
Charles Crook
Thank you
Thanks For Walking us through your Sawmill build looks like you didn't find job great information once again thank you
Appreciate the comment
worth watching for second time
Nice build.
I like the wheel tensioner/adjustment plate idea. 👍
Thanks.
awsome job, thank you for the video.
Hi Josh, I'm new to this but I love your design and the way you explained it.
Not sure if it's possible but I would love it more if you could provide a step by step guide on how you built that one. I'm from the Philippines and no one has created that one here yet. Thanks
Thank you.
I have sold this sawmill and will build another one some day. At that time, I plan to make videos on the build process.
Thank you! Most helpful!
Great ideas. Love the log dogs. You have helped many people with your explanations. Thank you.
Its all about helping each other out. I appreciate the comment
when you get a set of plans let me know thanks Grady
That's a good looking saw.if its flat ,level it will cut straight ,as long as you have enough tension on your blade and watch you push speed it won't dive on you.practice makes perfect, good luck
You did a nice job on your fabrication. You will find that your sawmill will improve, and you'll stop having problems with your axle, when you get rid of the tires, and replace them with actual cast iron bandsaw wheels. Very hard to tension the blade properly with aired tires. Cut quality will improve tremendously, too. Been there, done that.
Jeff Heath The Vintage Workshop
Thanks Jeff. I have debated the wheels, but the cast wheels are so expensive. Eventually, I hope to change these out tho with some actual bandsaw wheels.
I know the cast wheels are expensive, but keep in mind that so is a bunch of messed up lumber. Just trying to help you avoid mistakes that so many have made before you. Rubber tires are used in all the inexpensive-to-build sawmill plans, so they are very appealing. Problem is, you can't tension the blade properly, so you end up cranking on it to tighten it more, and the axles break. It's a nasty loop of bad outcomes. Look for an old, vintage bandsaw that is beyond repair, but with good wheels. Lots of 100 year old 27" to 30" bandsaws that the wheels are perfect for. I've got a 27" Chicago Machinery Exchange bandsaw that's 110 years old, and the wheels are cast iron, sturdy as hell, and are 2" wide. PERFECT. Paid $100 for the entire machine. Good luck.
Jeff Heath The Vintage Workshop
I'm hoping (and looking) to stumble onto an old sawmill like that with good parts or someone looking to upgrade and selling a working mill within a hobbiest budget. I've considered casting my own also, but that's a whole nother project. lol
You prolly spent more on those tires and hubs than a set of 19" band wheels would of ran you. I got my band wheels and collars , pillow blocks, 1 1/2" shafts all for under 300 bucks shipped from surplus center. I think my band wheels where $48,00 each with pulley belt and collar.
I’m considering starting with an old shop bandsaw such as a 26” to 36” Crescent or something similar as a donor to my mill. There is a school of thought that the larger the wheel, the less stress on the blade over time. You also get the advantage of larger material capacity. One tradeoff is the blades will be more expensive. Being able to use the wheels, axles, bearings, drive pulley, frame components and hopefully some other parts would help defray some of the cost of an initial build. Hopefully.....
Nice job showing telling, nice build I need to build me one like that and cut me some wood. Good job thanks for showing have a good one see ya next time see ya by.
Thank you
That is a dandy looking saw mill. I hope you don’t mind if I STEAL some ideas from you. Lol.
This is the nicest homemade mill I've seen. I'm wanting to make my own and I'm going to use your video to help me design it. Very nice work! Thanks for sharing
Wow. Thanks. I rebuilt this after this video with larger axles, actual band wheels, and a centrifugal clutch drive pulley. Otherwise, it did a great job as you see it
@@joshsbomber I have 19" blade wheels coming and I'm going to make mine towable using 8" channel iron and boat axel. I like the idea of centrifugal clutch. I already have a small diesel engine and 18 gallon aluminum fuel tank. I just ordered the cooks blade guides and 4" v groove casters. I found a crank lift at my local scrapyard that should work great for raising and lowering my bandsaw platform. I'm planning on cutting my own lumber to build a small house on my 12 acres. I just wanted to thank you for your video and the great work you did.
Sounds like you got it under control. I appreciate the comments. Good luck. Make a video also.
You did a Horrible job making this look home made. You can sell this at the store as a Professional Mill.
What would it sell for
Your vedeo is appreciated from( nagaland) india.
Thank you
make a blade gaurd
great sawmill build would love plans to make one for myself. thumbs up my friend
Thanks. I have no plans for this one.
My Grandpa would love to see your work!
Thanks. That means a lot
Best build I’ve seen so far
Thank you
Great job, this mill looks factory made and the presentation is superb, keep up the good work. Maybe you will do a demonstration for us someday, thanks.
I really appreciate the compliment. The rebuild was beautiful but I sold it before making a video. Btw, there is a couple videos of me cutting some wood on my channel. Thanks again
I see a couple additions to your machine. One for safety and that is a blade guard/retainer that will contain the blade if it breaks. The second one is some bristle brushes attached to the front and rear of the guide wheels that carries the motor blade assembly. That would keep your track clear of cuttings when attempting to move the cutting assembly forward or backward. Other than those items it looks really thought out and built. Wish I had your skills.
Appreciate the comments. I did build a guard at one point and ditched it when fine tuning, just never put it back on. I also ended up rebuilding the entire machine, making it taller and more solid. It was just about perfect when I sold it. Lol
Thanks a lot, you have answered my questions on the motor you used as I planned on using that or a 7.5 horsepower electric motor. I too liked the cooks guides. Inexpensive and functional. You have some great ideas and implemented them well. Thank you Sir.
Bill Wessels
Thank you. Sometimes simple is more functional. Many times I had to slow myself down and review my basics.
You are welcome and you got it right.
Thanks for the detail. Awesome build,simple and very functional.
Thanks
Nicely done. Some good engineering and fabrication skills in place there. Best of luck as you continue to get it dialed in.
Thank you
Fantastic everything! And yes, I could struggle thru & recreate your mill, but I'd pay for detailed plans in order to save some struggle
Thanks. Plans would have been much easier, but I would have learned less. Haha
@@joshsbomber Yeah, I hear ya. Hard learning has its dividends
Very well made machine and excellent video!
Thank you
Good video; clear, informative and easy to follow - thank you
Thank you.
hell yeah, way better than buying a mill cost to much. pretty sure hardware to build yours beats the cost buying one
I had about 1500 in this one.
@@joshsbomber There is nothing wrong with that at all.
Very nice build. Gives me a bunch of ideas.
Thank you. If you haven't started the build already, strongly consider actual band wheels or pulleys from Surplus Center. I wish I had just done that from the start. Also make everything overbuilt and adjustable.
Nice job. Can't wait to build mine.
Thank you
If you would make a detailed set of plans I know folks would be more than happy to purchase them from you! I know that I would! Fantastic looking mill!!!!!
Yes, plans and cultist / stock list would be awesome
I liked and subscribed because I am sure that you have made some more videos. Most people are so interested in talking but they don't really say anything. I can tell that you made it yourself except for guides and that makes sense. I think it is simple and user friendly. I like the walkway down the sides. Man should be proud of what he does and you never cut corners, just made affordable.These mills cost twenty plus thousand and don't do any different. I think I would add the second log dog to keep the log from moving while going down the cut and a ruler so that you can tell what your cut is going to be. For some reason I like this mill a lot. I have saw them made with bike tires and the blade kerf doesn't get affected by the tire so does that one affect the blade kurf or not? How much air pressure in the tires?Thats about it except to see it working. I wish I owned it!
Thank you for the positive comments. I never noticed the kerf being affected or the pitch angle of the teeth. I used many different air levels on the tires (experimental) and any reasonable amount of air seems like it would work fine. Eventually, I did go back and make many parts bigger and stronger and ended up selling that mill to another DIYer that I know a few towns over. I have a video or two of it cutting some wood also. Thanks again for the great feedback.
Nice work! Good job on the walk around explanation.
Thank you
NICE JOB, PUTS THE HARBOR FREIGHT SAW TO SHAME,2 THUMBS UP
Thank you.
Dude...great work. Good on you!! Simple,robust and user friendly.
Thanks a bunch
I am in africa if we need this good tchnology what we have to do? I am calling help from you
Nice. Personally I would have done something other than lumber but it's awful simple but adequate, I like this more than many of the others I have watched which are either low quality or more complicated than I care for
Thanks, I wasn't really sure what to cut with it once it was built. Lol I later went to cast band wheels and larger axle size, as well as centrifugal clutch pulley. All positive improvements. Eventually sold the mill and have not built another. With that said, I might build another someday.
That is the best setup iv seen.
Thank you.
This is fantastic! Great build and excellent video.
Great job my southern brother!! I hope that you don't mind that I steal a few ideas?? Well, several,lol, Thanks
Thanks, and of course I don't mind. That's why I made it. Enjoy
Hey Josh, just getting back to finishing up my mill based on your design. First, I have to say I admire you for the support you give your followers with quick replies. Basically the only main difference I have made is using sheaves for the blade wheels instead of tires.
You gave some advice in the past about using cooks guides which I have purchased. I am just ordering the 18hp Duramax and am trying to figure out the belt tensioner from the video images. I do not need plans but some guidance and/or maybe a sketch of your assembly. I can see some of it but cannot determine where the pivot is. Tried to view other mills and tensioner designs but none give enough information. You may have answered this within the comments but I do not know how to search within the content. I hate having to ask but any help would be appreciated.
It has been a while for me, but I can try to answer. Of the whole mill, the tension/alignment was the hardest to create and make functional. The reason is the enormous amount of tension on the blade. After rebuilding this mill, I scrapped the tension/alignment of this build and went with a while different design from scratch. Anyways, this video has the tension/alignment design with the plate that slides and pivots. There is no "actual" pivot point. The plate slides within the rails along the sides and is curved on each end to allow pivot. The rest was created using 5/8" threaded rod and 1/4" handles like a vise design. I used coupling nuts so the threaded rod would have more bite. My pillow block bearings where mounted to this plate also. To tension the blade, you would turn both threaded rods to draw the plate away from the opposite axle. Once tight, you could tighten front or back threaded rod to adjust the alignment. The plate free floats within the rails. Hope this explains the process of what needs to happen.
Now why did I scrap this design? A few reasons. 1. The threaded rod and nuts showed fatigue that would have led to failure in a short period of time. 2. The plate was free floating which allows for movement that could not be fine-tuned. 3. Because the plate could bind within the rails and cause false tension pressure making you think it was the blade tension when in reality it was bound up.
The new design was using 3/4" threaded rod and square tubing the length of the blade. I welded handles to each end of the rod that stuck out past the band wheels on each side. This was much better for tension and had no points of binding except on the threads themselves. For the alignment, I created an actual axle for two plates to pivot on. One plate welded to the frame, the other was able to pivot. I had a bolt that pushed the plate one way and one that pushed the plate the other. Once both were tightened, the alignment wasn't moving. Now, with blade expansion over usage, there was still a need for fine tuning, but a much better design. I also went to band wheels with the final rebuild.
I sure hope this helps. I don't have pictures or drawings to assist my explanations either. I never ever thought I'd be seen as a place to gain knowledge about sawmills. I'm 100% a DIYer and tinker with junk randomly. Lol .. As for Cooks, they are the place to gain useful knowledge.
@@joshsbomber Thanks again for such a quick response. I know your time is valuable. Actually I was asking about the drive belt tensioner but am glad you replied as about blade tension. WOW. I was just getting ready to cut the slide plate for the blade tensioner. I will try to look at how others are doing their blade tension for some ideas. I can usually figure these things out but this is a total different venture for me. By the way, I am practically a neighbor as I live in Columbia, SC and have lots of white pine available. I am only 68 so hope to get lots of use out of it when it is complete.
Lol. Maybe I should read a little better. Anyways, I went to a centrifugal clutch on the motor and would do it 100 times again. I used the motor mount to tighten the belt on that.
I have family allover around Conway, Aynor, Sumter area...
Thanks Josh and cool about having family here. We go through Aynor and Conway often on the way to the family beach house in Garden City and occasionally go through Sumter. Also will be headed down the Space Coast in May while my son is here from Washington State to go to the space center.
Any particular centrifugal clutch you can recommend. I like the simplicity of having that as opposed to a lever.
I did order the engine from Lowe's today cause I get a military discount.
Cool. Enjoy your time at the space center. Cool place.
I used a heavy duty centrifugal clutch. Not sure what brand or whatever. It works great.
Very much like what I decided to build. Mostly because of the scrap I will be building with. My blade guides and first band blade should show up next couple days. I have most everything I need otherwise. Using 19 to 20 inch trailer tires from Walmart off old trailer for band wheels. To keep weight down, will be using parts from old exercise equipment, most of my steel is much to heavy. Will post videos of project at some point soon.
Very cool. Good luck and thanks for watching. Hope it helps out
Very nice job on your mill...
Thank you.
nice build. if you want blade guards, get an old fridge and you get long bent corners with enamel painted metal.
washer and dryer doors... but it looks like you are making it all new.
Good thinking
That a good ideal that would work nice
Grazie per il video.... molto esplicativo. Hai risolto dei dubbi che avevo.. adesso si salda!!!
Nice one beautiful build.
Thank You
I have to agree with some of you're viewers. I too have watched other videos of sawmill builds. I have to say, you do have one of the best built home made mills that I have seen. Great job.
I do have a couple questions, because I'm going to either building a sawmill or buying. I wouod prefer to build one as well as youres. So my questions are. 1. Where does a guy look for some of the parts that are needed to build a sawmill. Like the blade guides, the large metal wheels? Things of that sort. 2. Are you going to add a water drip to cool the blade? The metal wheels I asking about are the same that some mills use for the blades.
Thanks. You can get steel from local welding shop. The band wheels can be obtained on Ebay, but I'd say Surplus Center would be best. The blade guides, I bought the assembly from Cooks. They are awesome. You can get a large amount of items at Surplus Center (online). As for the drip line, I found it created more mess than it was worth for me. My saw cut better when it was dry. My next mill will have an "H" shape frame around the band wheels to relieve strain on the bearings. I'd also use a minimum 1.5" axle and heavier bolts and all... I'd also use an easier lift and lower idea... the winch got old... Maybe motorized. Hope this helps
Nice job there. I like your height winch system and the dog design.
Michael Clark
Thanks. The dawg system was from someone else's video on youtube, but I don't remember who to give credit to. It works great. The height system was a bit of a struggle at first until I got it all functional. It works great.
Excellent build and great explanation. I would like to suggest, instead of the axle / pillow block setup to the blade wheels, a rear hub assembly for a 2001 era caravan or vw jetta. It’s easy bolt on with brake capability if needed. Just a thought, Thank you for sharing.
Thank you
What a great design, love the wheels and track
Awesome video and awesome sawmill man. Thank you very much for taking the time to do this. Definitely has pushed me towards building s mill vs buying one.
Tucker Andrews
Good to hear man. I watched many videos myself and thought I'd contribute to the cause.
nice build. I have seen a few that used a boat winch type of setup with the cables connected to the end of the bed. than you just hand crank it to move it. much easier than pushing.
Thanks for the feedback
Good video and tips . I like your walking ramps on the log bed. Have to get back to work on mine,.
1rustytree
thanks.
Great design. Well done
Fantastic, in complicated, l especially love the height adj pulley system,, cheers
Thank you
Nice work. Now all you need is a pole building built over top of it
Thank you and yes, a pole barn would be nice.
Great job, helpfull, and humble
Thank you
One of the most basic simple designs I have seen as others stated. Considering inverting my main steel T tracks to hold on to the rolling chassis one I hope to build. Have most of the parts to do a 20 ft twin axle steel C channel frame setup like yours or a 24ft Cox I beam aluminum boat trailer. It is already 5/4 wood decked over with a boxed steel border rail. It would have room for a knuckle boom up front.
thanks for the share. on your boat winch. switch over to a winch " brake" type they are designed for a vertical and horizontal. I would say a small 800-pound rated one would do you fine. ( "Dayton" on eBay) and cheap. the idea behind them is they will not freewheel down when you lower the saw head. A regular boat winch will just drop if the handle slips out of your hand.I have one on my saw, they do need a minimum of 50 pounds of down weight to make the brake perform, Just a little share for all to read.
Hemi Power
Agree... I thought I broke my hand one day when it slipped and hit me... Took a few days to get my hand to feel normal again. I would suggest the winch, but I don't have a battery on mine, so I kept the hand winch. Thanks for the added advice
josh I was just on the comp and got your return. These brake winches are manual, not electrical! www.ebay.com/itm/DAYTON-12U370-Hand-Winch-Spur-Gear-w-Brake-800-lb/331342022421?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Are well made this the one I chose rated as I said 800 pound lift. check it out let me know what you think
Hemi Power
Yeah, looks good. I like the removable handle too. That helps when covering it up for the day. I am currently rebuilding this mill, so there might be some changes in that department eventually.
Josh glad to help>
Hey dunno if your still looking but anothet type to look at is the worm gear setup. Just used a screw to drive the gear on the drum. Super slick, a buddies gone one on his mill. Will never runaway from you. Just my two cents
nice work friend, I think you saved me making a lot of time consuming mistakes...God bless...doug
Thanks
good job. hope it does well for you. about to start mine once i get the angle iron to the shop
Chad Marusak
Thanks. My biggest lesson is tension. I lack blade tension due to my axles being 1" diameter. If they were larger, I could torque down tighter and have straighter cuts. This is in theory anyways.